Reddit mentions: The best rc vehicle parts

I figure this may help anyone thinking about building a brushed micro, but didn't know where to start or shop. This is my list of preferred of components when I'm planning a brushed micro build. Happy New Year, and I hope this will bring in some more people into the custom built micro brushed multicopter world. Good Luck and happy building!

Websites and Threads I use for info:

• Micro Motor Warehouse Community Forum - Only a few months new, and already the best source for information regarding brushed micro builds.
  
  
• RCGroups 90mm-145mm brushed micro fpv build thread - Great thread for reading about other people's builds and tips on rcgroups. Run by a very knowledgable member: 1Hammer)
  
  
  Brushed Micro Frames:
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-H
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-Hex
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 135mm Micro-H
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 130mm Micro-Hex
  
  
  
• SOSx Micro-X V3 130mm
  
  
  
• SOSx Dragonfly V2 Micro-Hex 130mm
  
  
  
• Picnic Efficiency Racer Frames
  
  
  
• Picnic/MMW Reggae Shark V2
  
  
  Brushed Motors:
  
  
• [Hubsan H107C/D Replacement motors 8.5mm] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107C-H107D-Original-Quadcopter/dp/B00SKUJL2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448305571&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+motor) - Cheap and tame. Good for slower indoor builds.
  
  
  
• Multirotorsuperstore 0820-17 motors - Fast, efficient, and cheap. Good choice if you go through a lot of motors.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-15 "Fast" motors - Good mix of power & efficiency. Ideal for FPV platforms.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-17 "Dark Edition" motors - The fastest & most expensive of the bunch. Pulls the most amps too. Not suitable for Nano QX flight controls. Best with Beef's or Multiflite FC's.
  
  
  
  Flight Controls:
  
  
  
• Blade Nano-QX FPV 4-in-1 - Good for beginners, cheap, built in receiver, not the best board for acro, and lvc is annoying, but it's the cheapest DSM2/DSMX compatible board available, and no configuration needed.
  
  
• Beef's Brushed Board - Very nice 32-bit flight control. Fully tunable via cleanflight, accepts sat receivers, optional hex adapter available. Moderately expensive.
  
  
• Multiflite Nano-B - My personal favorite. Quad or Hex capabilities, built in spektrum sat rx plug & bind button. Built in jst connector for ftdi adapter (no messing with boot pins). Fully tunable via cleanflight, Most expensive of the bunch.
  
  
• Micro scisky 32bit - Newest 32-bit controller. So far reviews are very positive, and it's very affordable. Quads only. Same as the Hobby King Quanum Pico
  
  
  
  Propellers:
  
  
• Aflunta Clear Hubsan style props - Best hubsan style props available. Very durable. Quieter & more stable than stock hubsan props.
  
  
• JJRC 1000A Props - Ladybird style, but thicker, more flexible, and more thrust than hubsan props.
  
  
• Parrot Rolling Spider props - The most thrust, largest prop radius (73mm), & most expensive. A good match for CL-0820-15 "fast" motors.
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 750mah Lipo - The standard for micro FPV platforms. Good blend of punch and flight time. Maybe on the heavy side for some people. Yields about 5minute flights on avg with 8mm motors and full fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 600mah 35C lipo - Good lipo if you are concerned about weight. Yields about 4 minutes of flight time w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 950mah 25C lipos - My choice for micro-hex builds since they have no problem carrying the additional weight. Yields 5-5:30min flights with a micro-hex w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  Cameras:
  
  
• RMRC 520tvl Pico Camera - 90 deg FOV. Great picture. Great for night flying, 3g, Moderately expensive.
  
  
• 600tvl micro wide angle camera - 170 deg FOV. CHEAP!!!! Not the best picture, but... CHEAP!!! You can install a 808 camera #16 wide angle lens to bring the FOV down to 120 deg. Not the best for night flying or for a really bright day.... dynamic range isn't that great... but it's CHEAP! Did I mention it was cheap?
  
  VTX:
  
  
• Altitude RC 25mw 5.8ghz vtx - My vtx of choice for micro builds. 25mw is enough to cover a full sized football field. Built in LC filter makes for a clean picture. Fatshark band only.
  
  
• FPV Hobby TX5810 - 10mw-100mw adjustable power, 50mw default. Needs a 5v step up and lc filter for reliable usage. Smallest form factor if you need to squeeze it into a tight space.
  
  
• Oversky 200mw micro vtx - For people who run boscam equipment. Needs a 9v step-up regulator.
  
  
• FX758-2 5.8G 200mW 24CH - Another popular option for boscam users. The page says 32ch, but in reality it's only 24ch. It covers both boscam high and low bands. Great if you are comfortable building your own vtx w/ a separate dip switch module, and you have a 32ch receiver.
  
  Antenna:
  
  
• FPV Hobby 1g micro antenna - Soldering required. Not for use with vtx's that require a U.fl connector (i.e. the attitude 25mw fatshark vtx).
  
  
• True RC Clover Leaf - Nice, expensive, works great. Best if you buy this bundled in the RMRC Component fpv kit w/ the pico camera and altitude rc vtx.
  
  LED's:
  
  
• Apex RC nano-qx led kit - Simple to use and install.
  
  
• Hubsan 3v Blue leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v White leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v green leds
  
  
• I do not suggest using the Hubsan Red led's on a custom build since you need to use a sub-2v drop down. The Red led's run on lower voltage, and you'll burn them out if you connect them directly to a 3v power source. Use 5v red led's if you want to have red led's in a DIY build.

Buy cheap and buy twice. Save your money and get good stuff. The extra money you'll spend will be less in the long run when you factor in having to upgrade all of your current equipment when you start getting serious and realizing you shouldn't have gone cheap.

• Do you want a monitor? For that price you can do a DIY goggle system which is much more immersive.
  
  
• That camera isn't great (especially considering the best camera you can buy is only $35) and that VTX transmits too hot to be used in a race. You can get a 200mw ImmersionRC VTX for ~$30. If you wanted to spend a little more you could get the TBS Unify Pro or TBS Unify Pro HV (the newest version which has a built in regulator) which, on top of other nice features, lets you adjust the output mW between 25-200-500-800
  
  
• I always recommend the Alien 5' frame first and the QAV 250 second. If you don't want to spend $100 more dollars on a frame - I don't blame you, but you get what you pay for. You can buy clones that have lesser quality or stick with the one you have picked out. Keep in mind, the Rotor Riot edition frame I linked to includes a lot of nice extras that you'll end up needing during your build - zip ties, ratched ties, foam padding, heat shrink, wires, etc.
  
  
• Those motors are small. Depending on if you want to race or if you're just looking to fly casually, you'll need to double your motor budget and get something bigger that can deliver more power. The best motors out right now for price and performance is the Emax 2205 2300kv (aka "Red Bottom") motors. They also happened to be recently added to the Rotor Riot store and match the red anodized screws of the Rotor Riot Alien Frame
  
  
• Naze 32 is a popular board. If I'm not mistaken this is an F1 board and most people have/are migrating to F3 boards. I would consider an F3 board since it has better features and faster calculating speeds. Popular F3 sized flight controllers are the Tornado, LUX, or the SP Racing F3 boards. I personally use the KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs which are the best of the best and 100% worth it.
  
  
• The Props are good but you'll want to go with a 5040 or a 5045 for that size quad. 5x4x3 is preferred by many, but this is completely personal preference and tri-blade props will break more often. However, props are really cheap. Gemfam is pretty good, but HQ is higher end. Lumenier just released their own line of props I'd like to check out. Most Lumenier stuff is really good quality.
  
  
• The best receiver you can get right now is very inexpensive. I wouldn't recommend any other receiver or transmitter combo no matter how you're planning to fly or what you're planning to do. The Taranis X9D Plus and X4R w SBUS are the only TX and RX on the market for FPV worth buying. Anything else is a waste of money and a complete shame. The TX is the last one you'll ever buy no matter how far you go into the hobby and the matching RX is the best money can buy right now and it's only $25.
  
  
• Those ESCs are very, very dated. Not many people use 12a ESCs anymore and if you ever plan on competing you won't get very far with these 12a Afros. At least get the 20A Afros if you're sold on the brand. If there's anywhere on your quad you don't want to go cheap - it's the ESCs, Motors, and Flight controller. For ESCs and Flight controller I recommend nothing but KISS (KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs). Some people might diagree, most would argue there's better and cheaper alternatives, but hardly any would contest the fact that KISS is the best. It's what guys like FinalGlide and Steele use.
  
  
• Batteries can be really confusing when you're starting out so I won't fault you there, but these batteries aren't what you're looking for. You want either a 1300mah or 1500mah. Most people consider the 1300mah size the sweet spot. On top of that, you'll want a 3s or 4s depending on how fast you want to go and how much power you want to have. 3s is getting really dated and most people are running 4s these days. The third thing you want to look for is the "C" rating (which isn't dependable anymore because of marketing). You want a battery with a high C rating which means your battery is capable of outputting large amounts of power without catching fire - something you need for FPV. I've never used these, but the Turnigy Nano batteries are a great price. For the price I'm thinking about getting a few and testing them, but I have a feeling this may be one of those situations where a brand is marketing a higher C rating than what the battery can actually output due to the price. However, I could be wrong and I'm sure it's a great battery for anyone starting out. Other high end batteries are the Lumeniers and Tattu.
  
  
• Perfect antennas. These are what I use and you shouldn't use anything else. The next comparable set of antennas are TBS Triumph, but the ImmersionRC antennas have still been tested to be a hair more reliable.
  
  I was in the same boat as you. I only had roughly $700 to spend, and for me, that's a lot of money. I picked out most of the components you did and read reviews, watched videos, and did nothing but learn, learn, learn. After dozens of hours researching and learning new things, what I found is that if I wanted a drone that a) Flew good and b) was fast and c) was responsive - I was going to have to spend more and go quality. The adage "Buy cheap and buy twice" rings true in life and holds doubly true in this hobby. In the end, I decided to go the quality route. I ended up spending ~$475 on my quad and picking up a second job to pay for the TX and goggles. It's ultimately up to you, but if you want to freestyle, go fast, and end up racing. I would strongly recommend not going frugal in regards to your quad. It's what the vast majority of people told me not to do and, even though I spent way more, I'm glad I listened and built a top quality high end quad that's going to last.
  
  My Build:
  
  RotorRiot Alien 5' Frame
  
  KISS FC & KISS ESCs
  
  EMAX 2205 2300KV (aka Red Bottoms)
  
  TBS Unify Pro HV
  
  HS1177 camera
  
  ImmersionRC Spironet Antennas
  
  HQ 5x4x3 Props
  
  
  Taranis X9D Transmitter and matching X4R Receiver
  

Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4S balance cable extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Atmel USB programmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS3X1BF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2V5MVAECJYWCD&psc=1 (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786FQJ7F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VMS4C8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1ZTBUF0TDJOMN&psc=1 (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0W2NOS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1LU71BLX914GS&psc=1 (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZJBTAG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1PJ0S5YOZYEO4&psc=1 (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:

Radio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AK3V5KK2JCVKS&psc=1
Whoop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P5777Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3GZUGKBRUI9VM&psc=1

Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

The Gens Ace battery I bought is a 2s 5000mah 50c. I'm not a lipo expert but I have had different lipos with different c ratings. Im not sure what impact it has on the battery. But don't worry about it. I would try to get something between 20 and 50c, you should be fine.

And yes, you will need a charger. When I bought my first lipo I almost made the mistake by charging it with the stock wall charger

Here are some links to Amazon. I have owned all these battery's and charger

This is my Gens Ace lipo, just bought it a week ago. Seems fine:

Traxxas 5000mAh 7.4V 2S 50C LiPo Battery Pack by Gens ace https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCS7QPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruiTVGqT7plCC

This is my venom lipo. Great brand, just pretty expensive:

Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh 7.4V Hard Case LiPo Battery with Universal Plug (EC3/Deans/Traxxas/Tamiya) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YNQXGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jf7DybTY2S501

This is my charger. Great charger, kinda out dated but works fine:

HiTec 44165 X1 AC Plus Single Port 6 Amp AC/DC Charger (NiCd/NiMH/LiPo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LH3392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_og7DybJFYKT6C

I would also recommend getting a lipo bag. Lipo batteries tend to do catch on fire, but none of mine have. I would still get one just in case. Just out your battery in it when you charge it and store it. Here's the link for one:

Generic CoBean Silver Large Size Lipo Battery Guard Sleeve/Bag for Charge & Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HTH78W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4h7DybR76NC3S

Other than that, post when you get your battery and charger so we can help you out on setting everything up. Just make sure you get a 2s. 3s is crazy. Also if your going to be driving on the street, make sure you got a pair of road tires because the battery will tear up your off road tires. Other than that, have fun!

I don't trust myself with any kind of alpha-numeric painting consistency but... water decals are extraordinarily easy! I made a fresh batch last night in fact. Learn from my previous blunders:

-----------------------

Requirements:

decal print paper (Transparent if the decals are dark OR if the mech color is light OR if the design would be difficult to cut around. White paper if the decals have white or light colors OR if the mech is dark OR if the design would be easy to cut around.) Ink printers NOT print the color white and similar tints will be underwhelming!

picture editing software

color printer

decal film

Recommended:

acrylic fixative art spray, matte

decal setting stuff

*decal solution stuff

-----------------------

Steps:

1. Copy/paste stuff off the internet or create custom images in a graphics program. I recommend printing multiple sizes of the same graphic with a size reduction of 75% for each. (When in doubt go smaller than you think you'll need.) Just arrange the images very close together to make good use of the space.
   
   
2. Print out the document with the slick side receiving the ink. Use a test print of normal printer paper to conserve the specialized sheets.
   
   
3. Allow the ink several minutes to dry and then spray the whole thing with 2 coats of acrylic fixative spray. The purpose of this is to give a buffer so that the ink doesn't smear when applying the decal film. 5 minutes per coat ought to do it.
   
   
4. I've tried airbrushing the decal film directly but it gunked up my airbrush. Smear a decent layer of decal film with a fine brush or makeup sponge. 5 minutes between 2 layers ought to do it. Doing this correctly is super important since it keeps the ink from floating off the paper when submerged. Layers of decal film also gives the decal rigidity so it doesn't crumple like a tissue-thin taco when you pull it off the backing. I've gotten some decal paper that is more fragile than the Testors that I linked below. More film resolved my issues.
   
   
5. Now, just use your custom sheets as you would normal waterslide decals. Cut closely around images that are on white decal paper since it will have a white border. If you must use white paper, I'd recommend adding a background color of 50-75% gray so that any border you leave untrimmed will fade into most models better. (You could also make the surrounding color the same as the model it goes on if you're thinking that far ahead.) If you have transparent decals needed for a dark mech, consider painting a white spot in the shape of the decal to be applied.
   
   5a. Place a drop of decal setting stuff on the place the decal will go. This softens the decal and allows it to conform better since the medium is better than water. You'll still have a bit of give when sliding the decal around. Allow this to be visually dry.
   
   5b. Once the decal is perfectly in place, put a drop of decal solution to thoroughly wet it. This causes the decal to fill any irregular sections of the model that you placed it. It will get gummy, stretchy, and unable to move or remove afterwards. You might try this multiple times and use a fine brush to push it into recesses.
   
   5c. After the model is completed, seal the whole thing -including decal- with matte fixative spray or matte varnish that gets applied with a painting brush.
   
   -----------------------
   
   Notable products:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Decal-Paper-Clear-Pack/dp/B000BLI6QS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=testors+decal+paper&qid=1566236237&s=gateway&sr=8-1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Microscale-MICRO-DECAL-3-Bottle-Combo/dp/B01BALXVQC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=decal+solution&qid=1566234498&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Haha, nice to teach someone ;)

You have it the wrong way around. This is how it's supposed to look. And if you unsolder the wires, you also save some space, which is pretty nice on small builds. And it looks nicer.

The nice plastic wrapping is probably some kind of heatshrink tubing. Want to heatshrink your own stuff? Get this. You just heat it up with a lighter and it shrinks to half the size. There is no problem if you take the plastic off and leave it without it, but it's more likely to short on something, a bit less water resistant (in case a drop of water lands on it), and it doesn't look as professional ;)

If you want to solder the motors directly to the ESCs (which I recommend, as it's lighter and looks neater), you can heatshrink them with this heatshrink afterwards.

The balance charger connects to the balance plug and (usually) the main plug on the battery. There are some cheap, low-power chargers that only use the balance plug. The balance plug has thinner wires, so it can't handle a high current like the main plug (which also uses a connector that handles higher current). On batteries the size of your battery, the wires will be almost the same size, but on bigger batteries the main wires are usually quite a bit thicker. The higher-power chargers use the main plug for charging/discharging (several amps) and the balance plug for balancing (usually under 2A). You should charge your batteries at around 1C, which is 1A in your case, so you don't really need a higher power charger unless you want to be able to charge several batteries at once or plan on getting something that needs bigger batteries in the future. Also, most of the lower-power chargers only have a fixed current and can't discharge the batteries or show other useful information. Most of the higher-end ones can show you the current charging current, voltage, time since starting, mAh recharged etc, and can also discharge your batteries to around 40% which is the level it's best to store batteries at.

The LiPo alarm plugs into the balance port in order to be able to measure every cell individually. This means you can't over-discharge any cell (for example if one of them is faulty and discharges faster than the others). You unplug it when you're done flying, and connect the balance charger to the same connector when you're charging.

When you want to buy a balance charger, you have a lot of different options, depending on whether you want a really cheap charger (something like this), an OK all-around charger (like this one), a charger that can charge 4 different batteries at once (like this one), or a charger that can charge 40 of the batteries you're using in parallel at once (this one). Also note that some of them only have a DC input, so you need an external power supply for them. You can for example make one out of a server power supply, or you can just buy a ready to use one.

The first blades I linked, the self tightening ones are very close. However slightly different. More to the point they aren't made by DJI. You can get either type really (DJI or 3rd party) but I've had great luck with the MayTech blades. The DJI ones are labeled as 9" and the MayTech ones are labeled as 9.4", they may be different sizes in which case you'd not want to mix them. If I were you I'd just grab about 4 pairs (2 full sets) or more of 9"+ blades (either self-tightening or normal with prop nuts). If you get prop nuts now you can get cheaper blades more easily and have more options later.

While the ones I've linked I've had good luck with I'd urge caution when buying generic blades from cheapo unknown brands. Some of them are really good and some of them can come extremely imbalanced. If they come imbalanced your quad will vibrate harder putting the internals under greater stress, making your video blurry or shaky and reducing thrust efficiency mitigating battery life.

If you're going to try out different blades a Prop Balancer would be a good investment. Basically you clamp the propeller on to it and its super low friction bar will cause the heavy blades to hang lower. You take it off the stand and use a fine grain sand paper (I prefer a sanding sponge) to slowly remove material from the heavier side. Then put it back on, weigh it and repeat until it basically has no side heavier than another. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube about this.

Just the yesterday when I was taking off a strong gust pushed my Phantom over and my carbon fiber blades ground against the concrete leaving ugly frayed rough edges unbalancing the blades and causing increased wind resistance at the tip. When I got back home I sanded out the rough edges and re-balanced them. They aren't perfect anymore but they are close and I've extended their usable life. Once you've got some substantial pits in your blades or they are super-imbalanced it's time to replace them.

I also have H107L, and have been super happy with these batteries. They are 380 mAh, which I wanted to try before jumping to 500 mAh. I have been super happy with them. I haven't timed it, but it does feel like I get quite a bit more flying time. But of course, the main thing that makes a difference is having five of them :)

Obviously you'll also want a charger. I was going to get the same combo that /u/jackthecat53 mentioned, but some of the reviews made it sound like the charger wasn't that good. So I got a separate charger, which seems to be doing the job, but it feels super cheap, it turns out.

At any rate, I am super stoked about these batteries, and the way-improved flight time I'm able to get.

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510987554&sr=1-1&keywords=QX7

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPYW549moGE6OSj5qNa8vx67, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well: https://oscarliang.com/fpv-goggles-review-fatshark-skyzone/

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLP0PoGwU8OPaYMlsaWxSg7xr7xZXbxhf1

I assume you don't have an electrical engineering background and just want something you can buy?

Note: Below is not guaranteed to be perfects/correct, just some cursory research for you because I was in the mood.

Parrot AR Drone 2.0 uses a 2000mAh 11.1v (3S) LiPo.

It looks like the Power Pot outputs 5V to USB and there are usb LiPo chargers, but they look like they're all only for 3.7v (1S) cells.

I don't know what kind of "solar batteries" you have. If the solar bits can output at 11-18V, you could combine it with something like this to charge the LiPo. If not, you can also purchase and bring a panel with you that can output at that range.

Battery is 22.2Watt-hours.

Looking at Kathmandu, you get ~5.37kWh/m²/day. With the 14W version of the linked panel, assuming 50% charge efficiency on a bright and sunny day pointed right at the sun, you'd get ~37Wh/day. Assuming it's spread across 12 hours of daylight evenly and you track the sun (alright this is a bit of a BS assumption, but insolation values are usually a little low so we'll hope it evens out) you'd be able to charge a battery in about 7.2 hours. Shell out for the 28W version and you'd be able to do it in ~3.6 hours.

The charger and panel linked aren't necessarily the best or best value, just the first 2 I found. Don't hold me to my calculations, they could be completely wrong but can give you a rough idea.

Another consideration, depending on the length of your trip. If you get the 28W version and the charger linked, you're spending about $200 and you can get maybe 2 fully charged flights/day. It looks like spare batteries can be had for ~$20 and LiPos self-discharge at <5%/month. You could buy 10 at the same price and not have to worry about charging.

If you go with this approach, buy and test it out early.

Firstly, I'd consider getting the GAN 356 X because money isn't a problem, as you said. Of course, if you have a reason for getting the 354 M (such as small hands), go ahead, but if you do not, then you should get the GAN 356 X.

Moreover, I simply do not believe that getting Cosmic or Supernova or whatever The Cubicle offers is ever worth it unless you do not have the time to set up the cube yourself. My reasoning is that all lube setups are temporary, and the lube will eventually dry out. With all of the money that you spend for someone else to set up your cube, you could easily buy lube for yourself that'll last you much, much longer. For example, check out this Traxxas 50K offer on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

50K is widely used as both a core lube and a piece lube (although, it's not that good of a piece lube imo), and this huge bottle costs less than $10. Adding this lube into your cube is extremely trivial as well, so I see no reason to let other people set up your cube, especially because it costs so much.

If you want a good piece lube, I'd recommend Angstrom Gravitas and Angstrom Dignitas ($10 as a bundle) from The Cubicle. Gravitas is a super long-lasting lube, and the combination of these two lubes in my Valk 3 M is the best lube setup I've ever tried on it.

TL;DR There is no need to pay so much for someone else to set up your cube (lube is temporary anyway) when you can just buy a whole bunch of lube and set up your cube yourself for however long you'll use it for.

Well that mostly depends on budget. I got this Eachine Wizard x220 a few days ago, but I got the bind & fly version since I already have a radio. This thing is GREAT, my main quad I built about a month ago needs to be tuned and I didn't have time to today so I flew this instead for all of my flights and it is SHARP. The RTF version (the one I linked) comes with everything you need to fly but you'd also need goggles like FatSharks if you're willing to spend a lot on goggles or Eachine VR007's if you want something cheaper to start out on FPV with. I started with the Eachine's and they work fine, but after awhile the size will start to get annoying with no DVR and some other bells and whistles FatSharks have (I just got FatSharks a couple days ago and they're great!). And of course you would need a camera. The first GoPro session does 1080p60fps and it's only $200 so you'd be under $500. I'm not 100% sure this comes with a battery too though so you'd want a few extra 4S 1300mAh batteries and a charger for them (lot's of different options here so these are the batteries I use and here is the charger I use ). Just make sure you get batteries with an "XT60" connector and your charger has an XT60 charging cable. Here's a great video made by a fellow r/Multicopter user on how to safely charge LiPo batteries. They are no joke!

Anyway this is a GREAT quad to start with, the only downside to it IMO is that it uses the "FlySky" radio transmitter and receiver which is not that great. I started out with a different version of the one this has and my first quad lost signal and smashed face first into concrete from over 50 feet up. Luckily most components on these are tough as nails so it's a cheap fix, I just had to replace a GoPro lens (GET LENS PROTECTORS!) and a couple small parts. Anyway, I believe the radio in this one is a newer version that has had way less problems than mine, so if you get it maybe just range test low and over grass or something before going crazy?

If you want to watch a review of this quad, here's a great review made by u/uavfutures (same guy that did the LiPo video), who convinced me to buy it and I wasn't disappointed.

One more thing...have you ever flown a quad before or flown FPV? If not you may want to pick up a Blade Inductrix FPV and some goggles to get the basic idea down before you spend money on something you don't know how to fly. If you have any more questions let me know!

This is the FlySky one on Amazon for only 4 bucks more with free shipping.

I personally don't have very large hands and really enjoy mine. I have both the FS-i6 (which is the same as the tgy-i6) and the 9x and I always want to fly with the i6.

It has a solid build quality and can use PPM (only one cable from the rx to fc for less clutter) if you buy this Rx to use with it.

I personally think that the i6 is a really great radio. That being said however, it seems like everyone else likes the 9x, so you may just want to get that.

If you do happen to get the i6 and have some questions I would totally be willing to help out if I can! Cheers.

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are heli-nation.com, getfpv.com, racedayquads.com, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

Hey! I sure will. Thanks for your reply. That sounds great. I'd like to experiment with the cheaper FPV goggles before I invest in something nice. One quick question for you on the transmitter, is the FS-I6x good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/?coliid=I24XHKH2B0O5Y8&colid=3E2Q40NU5VK0A&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't mind spending $30-40 more to buy something that will last me through upgrades (FPV being the biggest one). I see it has 10 channels out of the box and is only like $10 more than the FS-I6. I appreciate the reply!

You will lose a little bit of flight time with the stock battery and motors. The carbon frame is a tad bit heavier than the plastic.

I recommend these batteries now that you have the room and these props... I get around 12-13 minutes of actual flight time with that setup. No, not hover time... moderately aggressive flight time.

Be aware that your lift to weight ratio is now a bit smaller, and if you use the stock flight controller the craft will want to "dig" when you tilt forward to pick up speed quickly. With higher power motors this will likely not be as big an issue. Don't get me wrong though, it still flies like a beast, but it requires more attention than the original symmetrical layout.

Also, the LEDs are now extremely difficult to use for orientation. Consider purchasing some bigger ones to mount on the corners.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's mine with only new frame, battery, and props: http://imgur.com/bx9QRQg

Edit 2: The foil tape is a temporary measure to protect the original motor wires, which were too short to be secured to the body/arms. The new motors have much longer wires and will be secured properly while soldering in.

Both can be great cubes. What is your preference? The Shuang Ren is a much dryer, faster feeling cube, while the AoLong is a smooth, clicky feeling puzzle. Performance wise, the AoLong is a better cube, but a Shuang Ren is better for people who prefer a cube that feels slightly more stable.

Oh, and for lube, Traxxas 50k weight Differential oil. Buy a syringe like this one and use it to apply the lube. Hope I helped!



Edit: You may want to visit this page to consider other possible options. There's a world of cubes out there.

I bought this: Traxxis 6AMP but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing, just rebranded and cheaper: HiTec 6AMP

Its got a decent range for batteries (2cell - 6cell), charges different batteries other than LiPo and has a nice read out as well as a wall plug and car battery leads for field charging.

Edit: after looking at that turnigy accucell, it looks like I got hosed pretty good :/

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

Couple questions about lube

Seems the general consensus is to go with the:

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=traxass+50k&qid=1564327271&s=gateway&sprefix=traxass+50&sr=8-2

Is there anything else you would recommend that would go hand and hand with this?

Is Traxass50k ok for internals and plastic?

Will I need some type of applicator, or will the built in bottle dispenser be sufficient?

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

If you don't wanna buy the Traxxas 50k at a hobby store you can get a 2oz bottle (60cc) for about $7 which is cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Since you have all the different "weights" I can tell you will need to test them to see which one matches your style, then after that naturally you will be narrowed down to a few lubricants maybe even 2-3, as you will see what fits or doesn't. Traxxas lubricants are cheap and the standard bottle is 60cc for about $7 on Amazon and $5 to a online hobby store I use. However cubicle lubricants are still useful but if you need a wallet friendly alternative then Traxxas is the way to go. However I always recommend a bottle of 50k around you it's pretty much universal. Alot of people just lube the core of their cube with 50k, lube 4x4's with 50k (when you break it in it feels amazing), and 2x2's.

30k, and 50k and some thin weights is all you ever honestly need and since your getting Lubicle Speedy, you won't need 10k, but yea. Goodluck

That's my 2 cents.

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Ideal is 30k - 50k wt not 30-50 wt

It will work but you need something much thicker. This is shock oil. You want differential oil which is just really thick shock oil. 900 CST = ~67 wt and ideal is 30k to 50k wt (apparently ~1250461 to ~2291130 cst (accidentally said wt instead of cst) ).

I think if you get this, it will either be like water and do nothing to the cube or basically be like maru lube that lasts longer which can be a good thing (maru lube makes cubes super fast but doesn't last very long).

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7E-8AbSHNSN3C

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

OK, I need to clarify this.

When the motors are not firing balls, and as long as I have my finger on the trigger, the motors will run great, and not slow down. So they appear to be working great.

However, It's when they are shooting balls that there is a problem. When they are firing the balls for a solid 10-15 seconds, the motors start to slow down, and sound like the battery is dying.

The battery has a 20C constant rating with 30C burst discharge rate.

The battery I'm using is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072AEY5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll admit that I'm having to read up on the C rating right now. I don't know much about that. Is a 20C battery too low? Or maybe it's just not made to be held down continuously?

Thanks again with all the help you've given me. It really means a lot.

I don't have time to write a book, but here are a couple of things I can share. I boxed up my stuff 20-25 years ago. We all ran RC 10s with NiCads. We all used Novak ESCs (T1 and T4). Futaba and KO Propo for radio.

Motors - Look at the motor/ESC combos that are available.

ESCs - Again look at the combos. Castle makes some nice stuff and they have software so you can program the ESC from your computer. It is very annoying to program an ESC based on flashing lights and beeps. http://www.castlecreations.com/products/castle_link.html

Receivers - I tried to use my old Novak receiver and Futaba, but it wasn't reliable. I broke down and just got a new Futaba set. There is a company called Fly Sky that makes very inexpensive transmitters that I hear are not that bad.

Servos - The big thing here is more power and strength due to the rock crawler crowd. A lot more options now.

Batteries - I tried to use NiMH and now realize I should have just gone straight to LiPo. LiPos supposedly are a little volatile and should be stored in a liPo sack to prevent against fire. I bet you have to do something really stupid to make them dangerous though. They also need to be put into storage mode if they are not going to be used for a while. This just means they need to be charged to a certain amount. I do what is called a balanced charge each time I charge them. This means that each section of the battery is at the same voltage. I have been using this charger and it works well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466LEMC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003EJD8HG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XZERFQM3FBSQ820RX7E

Chassis - Correct, not much difference here especially when you look at brands like Team Associated or Tamiya. There are some new brands out there that make some nice stuff like Axial.

Hopefully someone with more time can elaborate . . . . especially on the battery stuff because it is a bit complicated.

In that case, I guess you could just buy a single bottle of 50k which will cost you around ~$20, which will still help you with the spring noise, but it is also the same price of the set in the regular amazon, so if you can source some from there, then it could save you some money than buying from amazon.in (also people say traxxas lasts forever, which makes it a good investment)

​

But if you're r e a l l y tight on budget, people say Gan Magic Lube is pretty nice and costs around ~$6 on thecubicle.com (idk about India prices), but won't really help with your spring problem.

Imax for about 40$ can charge and do everything you could ever want a charger to do for any battery. Do not even attempt to use your other charger. A 23minute video I made for lipos for /r/airsoft

Link for charger with the power supply 53$ worth every penny. I have over 20 different chargers myself. I can find you what you need let me know your budget. I will link more.

This charger and this power supply ~35$ best choice. Power supply is external and tou have to buy it seperate but the same thing as the first and cheaper. Pm me with questions I will point you in the right direction so hard you won't stray off. This is the shit I know the most. This is my jam. Lol

Hm. That’s disappointing, but not shocking.

Is that a 3S 2200 mAh 25 C Gens Ace pack?

If so, it should be plenty powerful to run your pick of two Foamblast Valkyries or Krakens, or MTB Neo Rhinos. Foamblast, OutOfDarts, and Containment Crew are probably the largest US-based retailers of the motors, though you might be able to find smaller Etsy shops and what not that are more local.

I’d also recommend picking up a different Set of flywheels and cage; metal flywheels perform a bit worse than stock ones, and the canted cage is prone to whirlibirding darts. Kuryaka’s Daybreak wheels and Cage combo for $25 is a pretty great deal, and will hit 150 FPS with a 41 mm cage and Valkyries.

I use the "Newbie Drone" parallel charger. It gives you 12 ports to parallel charge on. It is designed for the smaller connectors, but you could easily make a cable. $20, maybe another $5-$10 to make adapters. I use an iMax b6 charger with this board (about $30-$40) and it works pretty well.

For a lot less ($4) you can get a 6 port parallel charger from RMRC. This would also need an adapter cable similar to above.

Other non-parallel options:
4 port Hitec Serial Charger. Works well, lets you charge up to 1A, and has the connector you need.

RMRC also just announced a 6 port, individual charging, for $19. It requires an XT60 cable to power it, which you could use a 3S or 4S battery, or plug in a 12v DC charger. You'd also need to make a cable for this one.

Hey, I purchased a Taranis X9D today with the intent of buying a micro as my first decent quad (I've trashed a few cheap ones learning how to fly). Once the radio arrives I plan on practicing with a sim while the (unpurchased yet) quad is in the mail.

I realise it's expensive, but the MOSKITO 70 is the frontrunner on my my micro shopping list right now. If my understanding is correct, the brushed motors on the three linked quads will wear out after a while, unlike the MOSKITO, correct?

On the Multicopter sidebar, the sidebars Batteries and Charging has some great info, however I'm still a little unclear on:

1. The difference between batteries. Looking at banggoods "1s lipo battery" page, there are all manner of mAh ratings for each battery. Can any of these be used on the micro quads listed above? Is a higher C-Rating always better?
   
2. A 1S battery doesn't have multiple cells to be balanced, so the recommended Hitec RCD 44212 X4 is a simple buy. But if I were to move onto 2S or greater, would I need to choose between a Balance Charger or a Parallel Charger?

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

Your receiver has to be the same protocol as your transmitter.
The battery you chose must have the same plug as your ESC (I use XT60, probably the most common). You can actually solder new connectors onto your battery or ESC but this can be a bit dangerous if you're inexperienced.
Those are pretty much the only two compatibility issues you may run into. Use a known powerplant (motor/prop combo) if you're inexperienced as pairing motors and props can get a bit complicated (kV, prop, power, battery voltage all are factors). The 2200kv turnigy motor with a 6x4 prop plugged into a 30A esc on 3 cells is tried and true.
For example these would work together: motor, ESC, Battery.
Good luck.

As I'm nearing the finishing stages of my build (woo!), it has occurred to me that, even though I ordered a couple of 1500mAh 3s batteries, and I already have a Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts), I need something to go in between the two!

I've been charging my 1s Whoop-class batteries with a parallel charging board on Amazon, but it's just for 1s.

Amazon tells me that people who bought the Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts) above, also bought this: BW® 2-6S Lipo XT60-Plug Parallel Balanced Charging Plate Charging Board for Imax B6 / B6AC / B8

It's not clear to me how that plugs into the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It looks like the only way to plug into it is male-type banana clips.

What else do I need? What do you recommend?

I'd like to be able to parallel charge 1-4 (or more) 1300-1500mAh 3s, or 4s batteries.

Sure.. After all the reviews that I have seen.. The better flight time vs weight vs good punch... Are 205mAh, 230mAh.. Higher C rate better punch...
Ej:

Crazepony 4pcs 205mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix Micro JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0H1U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q.lPzbF7TJ2RP

Crazepony 4pcs 230mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix JST-PH 2.0 Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X.lPzb1J1Q3H8

IMPORTANT : Be sure that connectors on the batteries that you get are JST-PH 2.0, or PowerWhoop Connector..

I did tons of research today and I found from many many YouTube videos, Traxxis 50k is the best. It's cheap, and there is a lot of lube inside the tube. It works great for all cubes. I actually bought a tube for myself today. Here's the link. [Traxxas 50k Lube](Traxxas 5137 Differential Oil, 50K Weight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j.ItybSA4VN9D)

I hope this helps!

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

---
This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.

---

Specs:

| Part | Price | Purchased at |
|:-----------|------------:|:------------:|
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase

---

Notes

Replacement Power Switch

• For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.
  
  
• For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.
  
  

  CPU Cooler
  

• I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.
  
  

  Case Fans
  

• For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard
  
  

  Velka 3 Sidenotes
  

• So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  
• It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  
• One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person

Get a Dubro balancer and these should work good.
Use any nailpolish and apply incrimentaly to the back of prop towards tip untill perfectly balanced.

Rctimer is a bit slow with shipping but the price and CS is worth it.

http://rctimer.com/product-665.html

Or Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-Propellers-Pairs-1045/dp/B01I9EG08Y/ref=pd_sbs_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GT194G3NXFE9N4A476XT

This is a good balancer.

https://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1487510925&sr=1-1&keywords=dubro

http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8
You'll need a prop balancer no matter what. vibrations cause multirotors to fly poorly.

Blheli ESC seem to be more popular nowadays than SimonK. Pick an ESC that can handle your peak current, plus, some overhead. The bigger ones that can handle more power generally are only a few dollars extra and should be more durable.

I'd recommend getting ESC and motors that can run on 3S and 4S. Once you've been flying on 3S for a long time, going to 4S makes flying more fun and exciting because you've suddenly got more thrust!

I prefer carbon fiber for larger props. plastic will flex and flutter at high rpm, robbing you of thrust and increasing power usage.

Mode 1 right throttle, mode 2 left throttle. i think most use mode 2?


Turnigy 9XR doesn't come with a module (tx and rx), so you need a set of those.


If you are trying to save money, maybe something like this?


If looking for something to use with other stuff in the future, I would get something like this. it comes with the tx/rx


I got one of these for a charger.

disclaimer: I am a noob at this (2 months) so take with grain of salt!! -lol

They specifically say it has a maximum transmission range of 1200m per FCC guidelines.

You will not get anywhere close to that in the city with the interference, especially because it is WiFi based instead of using their Lightbridge transmission technology like the P3A/P3P/P4, et cetera.

I recommend you pick up a set of Skyreat Parabolic Range Antennas from Amazon.

They cost $19.99 and extend range by quite a lot (several Amazon reviewers say that the antennas gave them more than a 1000m range boost). They will work for your Phantom 3 4K because it uses the same controller as the P3A and P3P, which those Skyreat antennas were designed for.

The problem with the Phantom 3 4K is really that it uses a WiFi downlink as opposed to Lightbridge like the P3A/P3P.

For the same price, I'd highly recommend the P3A if 4K isn't that important for you. Or, for $200 more, you get Lightbridge on the Phantom 3 Professional and can use the same batteries that you had used for your P34K.

Hope this was helpful.

Yeah, making your own at home is pretty easy to do. I've done it many times over the years. Requires a standard color printer, Decal paper, and a can of clear coat. $20 worth of materials will net you 6 pages of decals.

I recommend This. It's a lot lot cheaper than Lubix, but it's pretty much the same thing. While you're at it, you could also get a cheap syringe and needle on amazon to help apply the lube as the bottle's nozzle is a little harder to use.

2- If you are just starting out, get 3s bats. They are a little more tame than the 4s bats. I'd get a minimum of 4. It's what i have currently, and it's fine if I'm just messing around in my yard, but as I make an afternoon with friends, I'm left out because I'm trying to use my batteries sparingly.

I don't plan on getting 4s until I'm in control of my quad with high rates on 3s.

3- Get something that is 60+watts. I have an 80W, and with that I have a balance board with it. You can then charge more than one at a time. http://amzn.com/B014ERISDK

I"m happy with this charger. http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-airplanes/protek-rc-prodigy-touch-680-ac-lipo-life-nimh-ac-dc-battery-charger-6s-8a-80w-ptk-8513/p260579

Why don't you list out the features you need or want. And also desired and acceptable flight times.

Some things to think about...

• Carrying Capacity? How heavy are the cameras you want to lift? Pretty simple if you stick to the GoPro standard anything above a 250 quad can carry a GoPro and simple 2-axis gimbal. If you want to carry a DSLR or new mirrorless 4/3 camera... you'll need something on the larger size for enough lift.
  
• Follow Me - Will require GPS, an advanced AutoPiloting flight controller, and a compatible tracking/GPS device on the Follow Me subject.
  
• Rotor redundancy. If a single motor/prop fails do you accept that it will fall from the sky like a brick? or do you need something that will have a slow/controlled crash with a single motor/prop failure?
  
• Do you want a live feed from the camera? How do you want to view the feed? Monitor attached to the radio controller? or a goggle system?
  
• Do you want telemetry? Data reporting back to your radio controller, computer, tablet or overlayed on your video feed? Data that can be reported back... health of GPS connections, coordinates, Battery levels, altitude, distance from "home" location.
  
• Budget... probably should have listed this first. Where's the fun in that?
  
  
  Example Hex... Little under the cost of a Quad Phantom 2 V+ and a good bit under the Quad Iris+ while giving you some protection against a single motor/prop failure.
  
  
• $60-$100 - F550 or S550 Hex frame
  
• $230 - Tuned Propulsion Kit - DJI E310 (Makes picking motors, props size, esc size easy for an F550 or S550 frame).
  
• $130 - PixHawk Clone
  
• $50 - GPS (Works with both US/EU GPS systems)
  
• $40-$75 Pixhawk ground station/mission planner/telemetry connectivity (No link as it depends on connection type i.e. PC/Tablet/Phone)
  
• $55 - 4S 6000mah battery (probably want 2 or 3)
  
• $65 Battery charger
  
• $70 - Cheap 2-Axis GoPro Gimbal
  
• $250 - FrSky Taranis Radio Controller and Receiver Combo (Cheaper options exist for around $150. $60 Turnigy 9X Transmitter / $40 FrSky TX Module / $40 FrSky Receiver)
  
• $30-$70 Video transmitter - Depends on if you want fatshark goggle compatibility (ImmersionRC or the Generic 32Ch variety)
  
• $120-$220 7" Video Receiver Monitor combo. (Depends on the Video transmitter and if you want dual antenna setup.)
  
• $$$ GoPro
  
• @ $50+ in Misc servo cables, battery connectors, Hot glue, double sided tape, velcro scrips, solder and cheap soldering iron. Some of which you'll likely already have, but some you'll need as the build progresses.
  

Battery: Floureon 2 Packs 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC is too heavy and too weak. Your 4 motors + 5045 triblades will draw up to 24Ax4=~100A of current and battery nominal capability is up to 2,2x25C=55A. Look for 1300mAh 45C or even better 65C.
For instance this Tattu battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/
Or even better this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SYC0/
These batteries are really good ones, will give you more punch than Floureon ones.

FC: Naze32 is a bit yesterday. If it is your first quad then probably you can use it. Better use SP Racing F3, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Flight-Controller-SPRacing-Deluxe/dp/B01JS1Z38A

Yeah but it's gotta be affordable, and not fake. I've tried searching for available graphene batteries or systems and so far there isn't really anything you can buy that seems not sketchy. I'm also not impressed by any of the stats that come with some of the less sketchy ones i/e actually rated and not just fake reviews. Until that "graphene" battery has specifications that dictate it's significantly better than anything else I won't buy it. They are always claiming graphene is crazy amazing with super storage and fast charge times but when it has barely more than standard battery storage I get a bit skeptical. I found one which says it's a graphene battery but it's only 14v 1.3 Ah and it weighs 176 grams. While numerous other standard type batteries like this one have the same exact specs but actually weigh less at 155 grams. Which makes no sense considering the supposed capabilities of graphene and perks for using it. Which leads me to believe that it being advertised as graphene is a bit of a stretch towards and outright lie.

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors

Props

Standoffs

2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties

DIY FPV Kit

Tx/Rx

Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

If you want to lube it use this guide:
http://youtu.be/s4paID_54lQ

Best (for the price) lube:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367526514&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Also do a bunch of solves, then try and take out the torpedoes and see if you like that feeling better (I do but some don't)!

Now go play! :)

As far as MaH vs 2s, 3s, etc. MaH will give you longer run times. All things being equal a 5000 MaH will last 25% longer than a 4000 MaH.

The difference between 2s and 3s is that 3s will have 50% more voltage because it uses 3 lipo cells instead of 2 cells. This will make your car go faster. The tradeoff is that 3s batteries are more expensive and as you're going faster, you're going to be more likely to break parts on the truck.

I'd recommend the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It's also 6 amps but will do storage charge and it has a USB port if you want to hook it up to your computer. For about the same money, it has some better features. Just make sure it has the battery connector you need or else get an adapter for a few bucks.

Batteries I don't have a good recommendation. You'll need to get the dimensions of the battery tray and find something that fits or just find out what other Slash owners use and buy that. (Hobbyking has a really nice battery finder based on dimensions but I know you only want to use Amazon.)

Also, do you have a LiPo charger? If not you can check out the iMax B6AC V2 which is probably the best bang for the buck. Watch a youtube video or two and you will be good to go.

If you need help picking out batteries or any other accessories just post in this sub and ask.

If you don't have traxxas 50k, get that first just due to the versatility of it, being able to use 50k on both the core and sparingly on the pieces. You can get it over on amazon here.

If you still do have more budget, I would recommend lubes specifically for the pieces. Stuff such as TheCubicle's Silk, DNM-37, and Lubicle One, or Cosmic lube from SpeedcubeShop will do as well. These lubes are less viscous than 50k and are great for being used on the pieces.

I've been pretty happy with these clear props:
http://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451986117&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+clear+props

They seem more bendable/durable than the stock ones.

Emax Baby Hawk (amazon doesn't sell the BNF version):
https://www.emaxmodel.com/babyhawk-85mm-brushless-drone-bnf.html

Taranis Q X7:
https://www.amazon.com/Frsky-Taranis-Transmitter-Racing-Drones/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504715829&sr=8-1&keywords=taranis+qx7

Eachine VR-007 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/EACHINE-Goggles-Headset-Glasses-1600mAh/dp/B072M8FL3Z/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1504715875&sr=1-2&keywords=eachine+vr+007

These are far from the best components you can buy, but for the money they're hard to beat. Also, I believe the Babyhawk comes with 1 battery. You'll definitely want a few more, as well as a charger.

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

I like my flysky. They're the same as Turnigy I think? Remember that there's a huge difference between the FS-T6 and FS-i6, the i6 being newer with telemetry and stuff. link for Flysky

Also recommended are the OrangeRX and TX systems. Link to Orange TX

Looks like the 7000 series. There's a 7000 (assembled by user), 7500 (same but comes preassembled), and 7800 (don't remember what difference this had). There may have been others in the series but those are all I know of. I'm guessing the 7500 because the wires are run through the tubes.

It's discontinued and there's very little support available, though they do respond to email at americas@came-tv.com. I tried to get a replacement motor and they told me they don't sell them. So if you want to sell me one of your motors, I'll buy it!

Battery is a LiPo. I bought this charger for it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LH3392

You could get something cheaper nowadays. But you have to unwrap the battery to see what its specs are to charge it properly. If it's 5000mAh (or some other number) it requires a different setting on the charger than the more common 2500mAh. That's one's PROBABLY a 2500mAh. Get a LiPo charger with a "Deans" connector, and read up carefully about charging it properly so it doesn't explode. If you know what mAh it is and how many cells it has, you can buy a cheapo charger that's hard-coded to that one exact combination. Or you can buy an expensive one like I linked to above to be able to charge multiple types.

It's an old, finicky gimbal that's hard to balance and charge, so if you give up, PM me and I'll buy a motor off of it because we still use one at a school I teach at.

Something like that should work in theory, but you should probably look for some reviews for what looks like really cheap Chinese electronics. I've got the Hitec x4 Micro, which is twice the price, but really nice.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

What kind of capacity do you need? Maybe buy or make a 3sXp Li-Ion battery that has however many in parallel you want to fulfill your physical size/capacity requirements.Great Scott has a really great video on him making this but you can buy pre made packs too like these:
(Note that with any of these packs you will need a balance charger or a BMS that has charging function)
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3s&qid=1572316137&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/FLOUREON-Packs-1500mAh-Battery-Truggy/dp/B074PPMFMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_24_sspa?keywords=3s+lithium+ion&qid=1572316188&sr=8-24-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSEcwSDg5RFlGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDI1NzY2ODIxM0IwTURRTlU3MlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg3MjQwNjM4VkJGREQ1QVpNQTQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I used Illustrator to vectorize the images and to scale them. Then I used this to print the decals Clear Decal Paper. After that I clear coated the sheet with some clear coat spray(GW brand). Then I cut the sheet as close to the images as possible. Then I used decal set solution to make it look like it was painted. I then use brush on clear coat to seal the model up. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

Hey you're doing better than i did when i started. Built my first quad before i got goggles, too excited when it was finally done so i maiden flew it at dusk, did a punchout, lost orientation, gone forever over the woods :( lol so that epic fail drove me mad until i would finally get good at flying.

Good goggles are definitely high on the priority list!

This is a newer charger that is very impressive. $60 which is pretty low for a good charger, and it can output 300w/14A. Im thinking of getting one just because its so awesome.

Here is another popular one which is cheaper, but only outputs 50w/5A.

The output wattage is going to matter when you have multiple packs charging at the same time. I use a parallel balance board and charge 6 at a time. That would take hours at 50w.

I personally only use Traxxas 50k, I got a medium sized bottle a couple years ago, and haven't even used half of it. Really good, makes cubes smooth, and was great on my GTS2M
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504210494&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

In the true spirit of the hobby, you should dump some cash in these. But really:

LiPo charger - $48 - Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts): LiPo, LiHV, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH, Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port, Temperature Port, 2S-6S JST-XH Balance Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ND7J38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_htDxybG82Q702

2 batteries - $29 ea - Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tDxybYW7ARFP

2 brushless combos - $43 ea. - GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LuDxybH8WPFP6

2 2.4ghz tx rx bundles - $38 ea - FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LwDxybYGHVVE8

So at $280 they would both be fully up to date with lower end electronics. The sky is the limit.

For a more budget option, I'd suggest the FlySky FS i6
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y
It is reliable, fairly high quality, and also has cheap ~ $10 USD receivers (fs ia6)

A newer model, the Taranis X7 is a well made, reliable radio, although more expensive. However, it's the best on the market right now for its price. Its very new, and might be hard to find, but it's ~ $105 price point is well worth it.
http://www.getfpv.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7-2-4ghz-16ch-transmitter-white.html

I never bothered balancing my ZMR250 props, but for my big S800 Hexacopter I decided to get a Du-Bro 499 Tru-Spin Prop Balancer. It works amazingly well, and I like to think that it helped reduce jello in my video.

hmm those should be fine. I also run like 5 of these in my mix of batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

They work great for me. Another thing thats super cheap and easy to try is swapping out the battery connector. I hear a lot of people talk about getting voltage sag making it hard to do flips and rolls and getting it fixed by just replacing the JST(1.25) connector. Never had the issue personally but I have seen a lottt of people talk about it happening to them.

Oh no, you didn't get extra batteries!. If I may, let me pass down some wisdom:

• Your first instinct will to fly it as high as you can, ignore this instinct or you will be buying another one very soon
  
• Take it outside and try to make it hover. Once you can make it hover, try landing it on a specific item (tree stump, electrical generator box, etc).
  
• As soon as possible, get comfortable with higher rate mode (press down on the right stick)
  
• Once you can hover and land, work on flying it in circles. Practice flying it with the nose towards you, it's very very hard at first.
  
• Once you can do circles, move on to figure eights.
  
• Now you're ready for a 250mm size quad like the ZMR 250 or the WarpQuad

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

You'll need a prop balancer. This one on Amazon is pretty high rated but may be more than you need plus pretty expensive. I have something similar to this and it works for me. After you get one just do a search on YouTube for prop balancing.

Amazon makes a huge difference, price wise. What is your budget on a battery/charger?

Cheapest LiPo Charger- $22

3s 45c LiPo - $14

This a really cheap setup that will give you all the power you need.

Every thermoelectric device I've seen consumes a pretty significant amount of power (~20W on one of the ones I've played with, which the one pictured looks very similar to). A LiPoly pack that can do that for an hour (with a suitable converter in between, I'm assuming ~80% efficiency) would need to be ~24Wh, for a 3-cell pack (nominal voltage 11.1V) this is ~2200mAh. Here is an example of a pack that can do that. The article also says they run it 5s on, 10s off, which would approximately triples that runtime to 3 hours (followed by ~4-5 hours charging, based on nearly identical packs I have for various things).


That said, the batteries shown in the article look more like a 2-cell pack of approximately 1100mAh (hard to guess though, since I can't see the pack fully), so they're either running much less power to the TECs than their upper limit, or they're not running it for very long (~1 hour).

So, it needs a decent sized battery, but if you only want to run it for a couple hours, it probably won't be too bad.

It seems that indeed we want to replicate the 'astronaut backpack' from your event company, though probably with a more Dr. Seus visual. Fortunately weight isn't much of an issue. We perform as a group so we can just rotate the backpack between performers. The "ideal" solution would be to use something like drill batteries so we could swap them out as needed. I really have no idea how much power a bubble machine would use relative to the energy stored in a car battery.

So to check if I'm reading this right

If we went with a SLA battery, which is a lot cheaper than a LiPo battery for the same amount of power, we'd need...

1. A SLA battery
   
2. An inverter that converts to 120v-60hz home voltage
   
3. The cabling between the battery and the inverter. This is the part I don't know how to do.
   
4. A battery charger for charging up the battery between gigs.
   
5. Additional: We'd probably need some sort of switch somewhere to turn the device on and off without unplugging it from the inverter.
   
   One other concern is that if the bubble machine is on a moving person, most bubble machines have a shallow resevoir and will slosh easily. How was the bubble astronaut setup?
   
   Edit: Also I'm trying to do electrical math for how long batteries last, and brain is melting a bit. So just using examples
   
   Bubble machine : http://amzn.com/B000LXTKMK
   Battery : http://amzn.com/B0072AEY5I
   
   The bubble machine draws 500 milliamps of power, which is .5 amp. The battery has 2200 mAh of power. So if I’m reading how it works correctly, it’s a matter of just dividing the milliamps of power into the mAh and you get about four hours of power. Is that right?
   
   

> Eachine Wizard x220

Tattu makes some good batteries, both 3s and 4s.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748569&sr=1-6&keywords=3s+lipo+battery

I have 3 Lumenier lipos and each one is great. Mine are 1850 3s, 2250 3s, and 2250 4s. For your size I wouldn't go past 1850 (and even that's a little long), they get pretty big and heavy after that. Worked good on my 280, but obviously that much bigger than a 220.

Traxxas 50k is optimal for cubes IMO. Maru is light and doesn't last long or give as much of a buttery feel. It's good for short speed boosts, but I don't like it in the long run. 50k is pretty nice once broken in. It works for both the hardware and pieces

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462239118&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

As seen it is frequently bought together with cubes

It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.

(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]

(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]

I'd recommend Traxxas 50k You can usually get it for pretty cheap at a local Hobby RC store or here on amazon

The most popular seems to be Traxxas 50k. It's pretty cheap; I'd give it a shot.

I would recommend wraith32 escs if you're going to spend that much money. They support a higher dshot and are rated for more amps.

https://www.fpvmodel.com/wraith32-32bit-35a-blheli_32-esc-dshot1200_g1271.html

You should get a Pagoda-2, it's designed to work with a case which protects the axial ratio of the antenna.

https://www.banggood.com/5_8-GHz-Pagoda-Omnidirectional-FPV-Flat-Panel-Antenna-LHCPRHCP-SMA-Male-p-1159835.html?rmmds=search

And lastly those batteries are good but they're cheaper on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6

You should try Rubik's Cube lube. It is rated by viscosity and weight 5 is pretty thick.

https://thecubicle.us/cubicle-silicone-lube-c-35_64.html

EDIT: Found a good cheap alternative too which has around the same viscosity of around weight 4 of above.

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs

​

​

Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk

​

On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669

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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704

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https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409

​

https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R

​


You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands


​

​

taking it apart and cleaning the pieces with a cloth might help if there's any dust/dirt buildup slowing your cube down

otherwise i recommend buying something like lubicle speedy to lube your cube with, i personally use traxxas 50k but some people don't like the feel it leaves on larger cubes compared to a thinner lube like lubicle speedy

Yes that is the one I currently have. I also believe based on the current running of the 1800MaH battery pack that it wont be able to handle a LiPo battery. It takes 2 hours because its the standard crappy wall charger that came with the car, so I know I need a new charger. I see alot of recommendations to get one of these http://amzn.to/1rpiWDq . Is there a reason to not go big on the LiPo right now? I want something that can be used on a future RC car, and if I can get something decent now I wouldnt mind. Is there specific ESC you might recommend to run on this buggy with a LiPo battery and a brushed motor? I just want to be able to upgrade in the future and any purchases I make on this just transfer them over. I should have gone brushless (DOH).

was thinking of going with this ESC : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__32025__HobbyKing_X_Car_45A_Brushed_Car_ESC.html.
Is there something I can get that would allow me to run a slightly bigger battery since I am limited to 7.4v-2s?
Can you help me choose a battery with power and long run time?

I used this one in a build almost just like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHCQYXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156038&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=5118RTKVUBL&ref=plSrch
I did just find this one too for roughly the same price, but better
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJN4LG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156183&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&psc=1

Can't go wrong with the Hitech X4. One of the best purchases I've made in the micros.

If your just trying to find a lubricant for your speed cube. I think your better off with [traxxas 50k] (http://www.amazon.ca/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI). Traxxas is good and plus its 10$.

If your settle on getting silicone spray. I heard you should get CRC silcone spray.

The thing is my project is going to be mobile, so I have to give it an external power source.

This is what I bought to power the whole thing, and I know I'm going to need some boot converters for this, as it looks like there's 4 pins I have to work with plugging in (like a red and 3 black) instead of two.

Yep. Gotta learn how to do that as well.

Your best bet is to order it online. It does depend on what lube you want, if you want the professional lube, get it from SCS or Cubicle, but if you just want some simple lube, get some Traxxas on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=silicone+lube+traxxas&qid=1563613705&s=gateway&sr=8-5

No idea how much they draw, but I'm using this 2200mAh 20C battery with no issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/

Your diagram is exactly how I wired mine, only difference is I spliced together the negatives to save wire. Should be good to go.

Hiiii thank you. I dont really have much on my wishlist but the most random item would probably be this. Its a range extender for a drone controller haha. Lets me fly and film much further than I currently can.

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

I need an 11.1v lipo that will fit in my crane stock, and I hear that the side tubes in those stocks only accommodate for 9.6v batteries, and that 11.1v nunchucks will stick out the butt plate. I found this lipo, its rc spec and should be the right size to fit in the space in between the two tubes in my crane stock. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks!: https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPZ0KEZ1JZ9ETRYRB9X6

No, this is what many people use for cubes. It works great and it is a lot less expensive than other lubes. It is meant for plastic parts on RC cars, so it is completely silicone based. This weight is not reasonable for cubes, so many people use 50k weight. You can get some here.

Edit: Also, the 500k is going to be extremely viscous, don't use it for cubes. This person is doing it for fun, not to improve their cube.

it depends on the lube, if you want a durable lube then i suggest traxxas 50k -> https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

it's a huge bottle and is cheap and is often used in cubing :) it will last you a year or more

Ah, thank you for clarifying

It's this one: GoolRC FS-i6 AFHDS 2A 2.4GHz 6CH Radio System Transmitter for RC Helicopter Glider with FS-iA6 Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_WKGOybBQJ7P6M

I saw that there are a few sim adaptors but it's kind of daunting not knowing which ones are good or junk

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4a5ODb60E28V4

Works very well

Ah, thanks. One last question, would you happen to know how much lube is in this bottle? I can't find an amount anywhere, but I'd like to get a ballpark estimate of how long it'll last.

>Next question is controllers and goggles.

If you're not on a tight budget, the best things to get would be the FatShark Dominator V3's (goggles), and the FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (transmitter). You'll find it hard to find someone to argue against either of those.

Aside from that, for the receiver get a FrSky D4R-ii, and run it in PPM mode. For batteries, I used 1300mah 3s at first, and moved to 1300mah 4s once I wanted to take the training wheels off.

Edit: I also got a D4R-ii mount and a GoPro mount. You will break the D4R-ii mount eventually, so I recommend getting 2. The last thing you would need (if you don't have) is a LiPo charger, and maybe a parallel charging board if you want to charge all of your batteries at once.

Once you have all of that + your Vortex, you are ready to go.

That print does look rather large to me though. Lets assume it took 20h. I've assumed an average power consumption of 62 W [1].

Thus, the total print would require 1240 Wh.

The most commonly sold RC battery on amazon.com offers 2200mAh at 11,1V which equals to 24,42 Wh per battery. [2] I'm pretty sure you can run a printer on 11,1V without a step-up converter. You would need 50 of those, and that is not going to fit the box that he packed at 0:23.



[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR1IvZCZo5U
[2] http://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458235448&sr=8-3&keywords=lipo+battery+3s

Yep, the real thing packaged in a factory box. It does not come with a battery though. I recommend the tenergy 380's on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421780800&sr=1&keywords=tenergy. Also spend $7 on a 4 port charger: http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FYL2INM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


This thing is awesome!

Awesome! Highly suggest you pick up some extra batteries (600mah), extra motors (brushed burnout a lot) and these props (don't fly off and hold up to some abuse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RE5US38/

Thanks for replying :) I was thinking / hoping for something a lot cheaper actually, but I've seen that product name tossed around before. Which one of these should I buy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitec-X4-Micro-Ac-Dc-1-Cell-Lipo-Charger-44212/351576886028?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D06b9f86079364a21be29e7518acc96d0%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D171987244306

or

http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-RCD-Micro-1-Cell-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

Do you know if there any notable difference bwtween them?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These have worked well from me, and are pretty small

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

I use ones that are used for drones. My gigabyte z390 mini itx has the the connectors close too. 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LMRK36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No problem with antennas at all. I mostly use Ethernet so wasn’t concerned about the look. Good luck.

Hands down best bang for your buck. Comes with all cables and connectors needed

I have had one for 6 months and just ordered my 2nd

Tenergy TB6AC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ND7J38C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love this charger. Charges everything I need. If it doesn't I just make my own connector.

Start by getting a line-of-sight drone and see if you like it first.

hubsan x4 (comes with a controller)

batteries

charger

prop guards+props

$55 to see if you like it.

When you break that, try repairing it. If you don't like that, then the hobby may not be for you.

Here's a great charger/discharger

I use this battery for my stryfe with hellcats and it has worked great for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552006&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu+3s

I had a close call during one of my first flights. Have yet to actually make contact with a bird though, fortunately.

Also, this is a great chance to replace those props if they're stock. Stock ones tend to fly off. These are my favorite so far.

The quanums v2's can run on 2s lipos, so any cheap 2s lipo in the 500mah+ should do the trick. These nano-techs 850mah 2s works well and gives decent power time.


For charging, I personally like the Turnigy Reaktor it can do 10A, plus this 12v power supply and a parallel charging board, you can quickly charge 4 or 5 lipos at once. In the future if you plan to get another Reaktor charger, you can hook it up to the same power supply. I have 3 Reaktors hooked up to my power supply.

On a cheaper end, this B6AC can do 6A and doesn't require a separate power supply.


This is what my setup looks like.

On chargers, amazon is your friend I found this in two minutes (and it's also the one I use personally). On lipos, Intellect/Firefox are a go-to for me.
P.S. You shouldn't be using an 11.1v without a mosfet.

Hitech make a charger but its a little expensive. Probably pretty high quality though.

http://www.amazon.com/X4-Micro-AC-LiPo-Charger/dp/B00FYL2INM

I think the stock X4 comes with a 280 mah battery but I read that the 380's were a good compromise of performance and flight time. I'm going to go with these from Amazon.

One of the posts on this subreddit asked about transmitters, and a person replied that this was a good cheap option in terms of transmitters. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-Transmitter-Helicopter-Receiver/dp/B00VE3PZ3Y. What do you think about this one? (By the way, he didn’t link this specific one, but he said that this transmitter was a good option)

Just get this One little dab (a little smaller than a pencil eraser) will do your entire 3x3, a bit more will do bigger cubes, it's confirmed safe for puzzles, and is pretty thick. If you use the right amount, you hardly know it's there, except your puzzle is a bit quicker and smoother.

I get that it's twice the price, but it's worth it, I think, to get something proven to work, than something that'll probably run like water (it's mostly Polyalphaolefin, which may degrade plastics, a cursory Google search tells me).

I'm not familiar with using those connectors but I have the same charger. I use a balance board. so I can charge a few at a time. If you were to do that, then something like this would work

Otherwise just an ec5 to banana plug should work.

I use an [imax b6] (http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=217) with a parralel charging board. / Amazon link
This particular charger has a heavy counterfeit presence online though so it's important to make sure it's a genuine SkyRC charger if you decide to go down that road. Avoid ebay and the likes. The Amazon link above is the real deal for reference.

Thanks, I have heard of the ladybirds now that you mention it. I picked up this set from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Parabolic-Advanced-Controller-Transmitter-Extender/dp/B017IP2P98/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496172696&sr=8-4&keywords=phantom+3+signal+reflectors

You don't need the gold one. This one is more expensive than the $10 one, but that one only comes with one piece. You might save money with aluminum but I haven't tried that so I'm not sure

• Turnigy 9X
  
• transmitter pack
  
• backlight kit
  
• USBasp
  
• Extra reciever
  
• servos
  
• Gorilla Glue
  
• lipo checker
  
• motor/esc combo
  
• lipo charger
  
• airplane lipo
  
  You'll also need some Dollar tree foam, some music wire, clear tape, razor blades, ect. That setup will get you started with tons of room to grow. The one transmitter will handle 8 planes at least.

Testors custom decal paper

Took a little playing around to get it right, but I'll use it again in the future. Took a while, but I like how it came out.

Traxxas 50k from RC hobby shops or online is a popular choice. Or Lubix (direct or from specialty cubing sites) to get a very similar substance in a nice application syringe with a cool sticker.

Crazy Bad Cuber lubing video. I seems like the main mistake people make is using too much lube which slows down your cube.

50K differential oil is the lube of choice for the core. You may want to acquire a syringe as it is very easy to over lube without one. If you intend to lube the pieces you will need lighter lube, around 30K.

Some really popular LiPos that a lot of the pilots use are:

Tattu 4S 1300mAh 75C

Lumenier 4S 1300mAh 60C

Thunder Power Adrenaline 1300mAh 4S 80C

Got my traxxas 50 early :D

Still breaking in my yuxin little magic since people reccomend not to lube until it's well broken in, so rn using my good ol' qiyi warrior that got lubed up. It's turning pretty darn well now (was kinda gummy before idk why, didnt lube it before), but how long does lube last?

I got this btw

if that changes anything (like different types of traxxas 50k? idk)

1300mAh 75C and 1550 mAh 75C. This is my first build and my FC is about a month out so I couldn't tell you how they fly, but the reviews are decent and they're an okay price, even with the Amazon Tax.

I use these. They are tiny but work well, my router is on the floor above me and I've never had a problem with these

Is this it?

​

I am definitely going to get this if I can. Also, do I lube the exact way J perm does it in his How to Lube a Cube video?

Yeah, from Amazon you can get it here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxxas-TRA5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427838040&sr=8-1&keywords=Traxxas+Lube

Replace .co.uk with .com if you want

I hear good things about this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-499-Tru-Spin-Prop-Balancer/dp/B0006N72Y8

Looks good. For the badges and such, try waterslide decals https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Decal-Paper-Clear-Pack/dp/B000BLI6QS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466705607&sr=8-2&keywords=waterslide+decal

The FS-T6 is kind of old, you're better off with the FS-i6 for the same price.

Someone else would have to comment about the FC; I haven't used KK2.1. You will need some way to get 5V to the flight controller (like a polulu 5V step down or matek PDB or something).

Also you'll need a power supply for the battery charger. And probably more batteries.

I live in Canada also :P
That's still cheaper though, I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505498334&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu

Would this one be better? Flysky FS-i6X 10CH 2.4GHz AFHDS RC Transmitter w/ FS-iA6B Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cmWLAbDBVVNP2

Since I recently purchased the receiver, I think I'll just return it and start over. This looks like it should have what I need: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519086107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flysky&psc=1

Any thoughts?

I have this, it's just copper plates that go over the antennas. They definitely work, so I'm sure one you have to install like that would work even better.

The only issue I face with mine is if I try to fly straight above myself the signal gets bad as the range extenders are trying to push the signal straight out. I did a test flight with them the other day and flew 3200 feet away with zero signal loss according to my logs. Looking at my other logs where I didn't even fly half that distance I would get signal loss in the same area without the range extender.

Water slide decals could also work in place of actually painting the image on. Water slide decals are used in a lot of industries to apply clean graphics to objects, i.e. Hotwheels, Guitar headstock logos.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_slide_decal

You can get this decal paper online: http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-9201-Decal-Paper/dp/B000BLI6QS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418242921&sr=8-2&keywords=waterslide+decal

If anyone wants a link to this charger it's called the: B6AC Smart Charger

How do you feel about parabolic range boosters?

I've been thinking about buying THESE to boost my phantom 3 pro range since my area has a lot of trees

Is Imax and Tenergy about the same reliability do you know? I can get a Tenergy one with built in power for about $20 more and it comes with a couple more leads. http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6AC-Power-Balancing-Charger/dp/B00466LEMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412569389&sr=8-3&keywords=Tenergy+TB6-ac+Balance

I want to keep it compact so I can use it when I go out camping and hiking. I have a converter for my Jeep and a solar generator that can power the charger and it would be nice to not have to have an extra brick to carry and cut on weight.

You can paint standard space marines green and use these custom decals to make them Salamandry. Purchase some decal printer paper and print them on any standard printer and then you can apply them just like any other decal.

After some more research, I think something like this charger should work plus it works on AC, too.

compare that traxxas charger to this one I think they are the same one...

Hitec X1

Edit: looks like the traxxas is rated for 80 Watts the hitec for 55. Both for 6 Amps

Which batteries did you get? I like the TEnergy Batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

As opposed to these I found on banggood:

http://m.banggood.com/5-X-Upgrade-25C-3_7V-380MAH-Battery-For-Hubsan-X4-QR-Ladybird-p-69895.html

https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6
Would recommend these.

something like theses if you have the money

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LMRK36/

Whichever one you get make sure it comes with a build in power supply. I overlooked that when I bought mine and now I'm stuck with having an extra brick laying around just to give power to the lipo charger. I mean it's so inconvinient, I'm surprised non power supply models are even a thing.

Here is my suggestion:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-SKYRC-Power-6Amps-50Watts/dp/B00ND7J38C

That one would work, however it is made for NimH batteries, so if you ever switch over to a LiPo battery in your gun you will have to get a different one.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TB6AC-Power-Balancing-Charger/dp/B00466LEMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1483824779&sr=1-3&keywords=smart+charger+lipo+nimh

This one is a little more expensive but it will make sure you are able to use any battery on it. Really depends on how much money you are willing to spend. :P

Here is about what I spent: http://i.imgur.com/ZU2hzQr.png

Edit: Table format

Link|Part|Model|Price

-:|:-:|:-:|--:
link | Frame | Lumenier QAV-R 5 | $107.75
link | Motors | EMAX RS2205 2300KV | $76.99
link | ESCs | Littlebee 20A PRO | $49.99
link | Flight Controller | MotoLab Cyclone F3 | $40.69
link | Radio Tx | FrSky Taranis X9D Plus | $211.37
link | Radio Rx | Frsky XSR | $26.74
link | Headset | Fatshark Attitude V3 | $331.99
link | FPV Tx | ImmersionRC 600MW 5.8 | $48.98
link | FPV Antennas | Aomway | $15.00
link | FPV Camera | Foxeer XAT600M | $48.88
link | HD Camera | Yi | $100.00
link | Charger | SkyRC iMax B6AC V2 | $49.97

There may be a part or two missing. The links may or may not still be good, this is from ~4 months ago. Take out the headset, HD camera, and other FPV stuff and the cost drops by $545. These are also all high-end parts.

Edit2: Some Youtube subs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCahqHsTaADV8MMmj2D5i1Vw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCemG3VoNCmjP8ucHR2YY7hw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoS1VkZ9DKNKiz23vtiUFsg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3ioIOr3tH6Yz8qzr418R-g
https://www.youtube.com/user/EngineerX
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1vASX-fg959vRc1xowqpw

Just get the right one and you'll be ok.

Yeah, the internal one is the ring charge, this is my external (you can get cheaper ones that work as wel)

For 55$ nope :D cheap short antennas exist for example. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071LMRK36?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I know that's not what you were looking at but just fyi

What is the recommended balance charger that I can plug 4 into at once and just let it do its thing? I'm lookin at This one

https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511932976&sr=8-1&keywords=11.1+volt+battery

or

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2200mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

Would 4 of these work? And can you explain the discharge? Do you mean once the battery reaches 80/100, I shouldn't drain it any further?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BLI6QS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

This was the one I used I think. I may have had more luck with more expensive transfer decal paper, but the forgeworld ones were exactly what I needed so I stopped trying.

> I'm more then likely going to total it

With that attitude I would again go with a Hubsan/Syma to start. If you really want to dive in as cheap as possible there is tons of kits on Ebay/Amazon. I started with a kit I found on Ebay, now I am slowly upgrading everything. I now wish I picked all my parts instead, but if your itching to dive in then below is a list.

Prime Shipping - Kit, Battery, Remote, Charger. Still requires soldering iron, velcro, zip ties, heatshrink, double sided tape, allen keys, and a couple minor things.

If you're looking to produce your own decals from an image, Testors has paper you can print directly on from an inkjet printer: https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Decal-Paper-Clear-Pack/dp/B000BLI6QS

It might not fit your need, but is worth looking into if you can get sheets for MSRP.

I use a SkyRC iMax B6AC v2
One advantage over the accucell 6 charger is that you can plug directly into an AC outlet without an adapter. It's a bit more pricey, however.

There are probably better options - but this exists.