Are you looking for a surround setup, or a 2 channel setup? A $1000 2 channel setup would be absolutely phenomenal for this. You could get very good speakers.

You said 'preference for bookshelf speakers'. Totally understood. This first recommendation for a surround system will have towers, and you'll see why.

First, this receiver is what you want for pretty much everything. And, save a bunch of money if you're okay with refurb.

Fluance surround system. The towers have 8" woofers in the bottoms, basically acting as subwoofers. Pretty cool IMO. I did this because subwoofers are expensive, and this will hold you over until you get one. When you're ready to, this HSU is pretty much the cheapest, unless you go with an ultra budget one, but you might not be happy with that. Who knows.

Next is going to be individual parts. This is what I would do if I were to build a home theater for $1000 right now with bookshelf speakers.

Klipsch R-51M for front LR.

Klipsch R-41M for rears.

Klipsch R-52C for a center. It is out of stock right now. If you're in a hurry, R-34C. Costs a bit more and will sound a bit better.

We're at $770 with the refurb receiver and with the cheaper center. That leaves us $230 for a sub. I wouldn't get a sub for that price. I would save money. At that price, you can pretty much only get some cheap ones that don't perform very well. That HSU one for $400 is really the cheapest I would go. I would stick with the 5.0 and save for the HSU.

------------------------------------------

Another option could be getting a 3.0 setup (front LR and center) and saving for rears. This is the route I would go.

I would get a pair of HSU Horn speakers. These are fun and dynamic. They also produce loads of bass somehow. Should be good for movies.

Here is the matching center.

After that, you have about $200 left or so (with the receiver included of course). Once again, stick with this until you can afford a sub, and then add surrounds.

This will be the best sounding setup for movies.

------------------------------------------

I hope you are looking for a 2.0 setup, because this will be fun for music.

Ascend Acoustics Sierra. Absolutely phenomenal speakers. They're fantastic. Neutral but fun, easy to listen to, and they look great.

Klipsch RP-600M. These will be great for both music and TV. Vocals are absolutely stunning on these. Crystal clear, which makes them great for movie and tv listening. They are also dynamic, making them fun for music.

One last one, HSU Horn speakers once again. I really think that these speakers are fantastic. Reviews of them are limited, but the few that are out there agree with me. They have an extremely neutral response, meaning they won't be fatiguing or anything, but everything is extremely clear with them. I hate that people/reviews always say 'this sounds more expensive than it is' because they say that about everything. However, this is the one time you'll hear me say this. These speakers sound better than what they cost.

------------------------------------------

Let me know what you think. I would go with the HSU. They're just so much fun and they'd be great for movies.

You can get a Ryzen 5 1600 that includes a CPU cooler and a board for a good price. Choose the X370 Pro motherboard from asus if thats whats offered as a bundle from microcenter. Has overclocking headroom if you want, but not necessary.

Get yourself an R7 260x or above in my opinion as a GPU, I would tell you to get something better but GPU prices are so high right now.

Since you have the X370 Pro board now from asus, get yourself an M.2 SSD (About 120gb or more) and put windows and AutoCad on it. Then get yourself a decent 50 dollar range 1tb hard drive for long term storage.

Corsair has nice professional looking cases if you don't want the flash but don't want an ugly stock PC garbage box provided by friendly neighborhood HP and Dell pre builds.

Mouse and keyboard combo you can get real cheap on Amazon or Microcenter. That is of course unless you're looking for something like MLG grade with Cherry MX switches. I personally use an included keyboard from a pre built dell with my custom build pc to save money. Its a little loud on the key switches but its free and it does the job.

Pick up for yourself a diablotek 500 watt PSU from Microcenter, they are really cheap and surprisingly good for such a low price. They hold overclocked processors quite nicely. They aren't the best looking things out there but since you aren't getting a flashy case with windows or anything it won't matter

Since you will be shopping at microcenter for most of it I can pretty much guarantee you this build won't go close to 1800 dollars. So now you can spend all that money you saved on a sweet monitor and GPU for gaming on the side when your boss isn't looking. Remember to get extended warranties from Microcenter as they cover EVERYTHING except for theft and are the best thing ever.

Didn't do price checks or part builds for you but since I build all the time I can tell you from experience that these components won't break the bank.

As a little gift for you if your interested. You can get this TV and it has a decent screen with 4k HDR support at 120hz refresh rate. It not a monitor per say but it does a decent job at it with amazing specs. I know some casual gamers that use it for gaming:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29XPO3?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=de_a_smtd&showDetailTechData=1#technical-data

Don't work with printers very often so I can't help you with that.

Hope this helps!

Here is part of the write up u/zeos did. If you want to read more go to r/zeos.

Pick a budget (usually above $500) and assemble your perfect system. If you don't think you can afford a good system right away consider starting with a 5.1 receiver and only two decent speakers. That basic 2.0 can have a sub added in the future making it a 2.1 and as funds become available you can add rears or move the initial speakers to the rear, get better fronts and then add a center. There is no harm in building a system up over time.

___

NOTES

.

{5.1 vs 7.1 Note:} Your room makes this determination. If the room you are in doesn't have ~6 feet behind your seating positions you are likely not going to fit a 7.1 and should stick to 5.1

{.1 and .2} This simply means a subwoofer(s). Since it isn't a full range channel they just indicate it as an addon. Don't worry about having a .1 and wanting two subs. A simple RCA SPLITTER can give that to you.

{MultiEQ, Audyssey, Room Correction} These are features/programs that receivers come with to automatically "fix" room acoustics. It uses a supplied microphone to try and detect speaker response range, distance, reverb delay, etc etc etc.. It can help oddly shaped or echoy rooms OR with mis-matched/bad speakers. You aren't required to run it but I recommend it if you hear any issues you don't like. (results vary)

.

---

Surround Receivers-------

---

.

Look for the cheapest unit that fits ALL your needs (# of HDMI inputs, 5.1 or 7.1, Legacy inputs (S-Video, RCA-Video for old game consoles), Airplay, etc) Remember to mostly Ignore wattage (more than 90wpc is enough for 99% of speakers) and stick to the brands listed below or message me if you find a good deal. Don't be afraid to look at last years models, most times very few changes occur and only a few "smart" features or HDMI ports are added.

.

-#-|Item------------------|Description - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -|Cheapest|

----|:----|:----|:----
1 | Denon| This is my most preferred brand. They are very clean looking, have amazing sound quality and some little features I like. Preset buttons and 1/2db volume increments make me happy. Affordability for beginners. | 5.1--7.1
2 | Marantz| Featuring the only "slim" line of receivers on the market and absolutely state of the art UI and remote features. Amazing reliability and great support. BUT you will be paying extra for these features. | 5.1--7.1
3 | Yamaha| Sporting a remarkable amount of different receivers you will have to do some sorting. They have good sound quality and TONS of inputs including legacy but tend to have a confusing setup and remote layout. | 5.1--7.1
4 | Onkyo| Normally higher on my recommended lists some Onkyo AVR's have been plagued with recent design flaws and overheating issues. Still I can't fault everything they make so read reviews and choose wisely. | 5.1--7.1
5 | Pioneer| The Polk of receivers. They work and can be found at a bargain but since the Pioneer Elite line exists they tend to leave a ton of features off these entry level AVR's. That just means you can get them cheap.| 5.1--7.1
6 | Harmon/Kardon| Stylish but I can't find anything to love about H/K. They "work" but don't DO anything better than anybody else. You can usually find these at brick and Mortar Stores which means price matching heaven. | 5.1--7.1
.

---

Within your budget:
Viewmaster
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1XeCxbMKD9AJ9

Slightly over your budget but a better headset:
I AM Cardboard DSCVR Headset
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018G17K52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYeCxbTAHEVFK

Over budget but the best headset in its price range (button is a bit iffy on iPhones though for some reason)
BOBOVR VR Z4
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CEBKXJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oZeCxb4ZVCA18

I own all of these, they all have the button and work with iPhones. I had to modify the button on the BoboVR to get it to work properly though.
The Viewmaster is ok, the field of view isn't great, and it looks a bit kiddy, but it is robust and has good clarity.
The DSCVR is pretty much just a plastic version of Cardboard 2.0, but sometimes the more straightforward the better, I found it very good, although the strap that holds the phone looks like it will wear overt time.
BoboVR is by far the best though all round, great comfort, great fov, adjustable lenses (which the other 2 don't have) and the headphones are actually really good.

I hunted about for a bit, and a chap posted this on a whirlpool forum:

"My aim was to get access to Coronation Street as cheaply as possible and so began a variable nooobs journey that ended up with a Roku 3 box, watching Hulu Plus, Hbo Go and UK Tv.

Don't know if what I did will be of use to anyone but this forum gave me a lot of help to get there so I’m posting this in the hope it might help someone else.

1. Signup for the TPG unlimited $59/month plan
   This in itself was a bit of a nightmare but that’s a TPG story! I signed up for this because I didn't want to be worried about data usage.
   
   
2. Bought Roku 3 box from Amazon – US$110.96 inc shipping to Oz
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGGDVOO/ref=ox_ya_os_product
   Took 7 days to arrive.
   
   
3. Got the Unotelly Premium subscription – US$48/year
   I used their UnoDNS option – they provide two Sydney options.
   I got the one week trial first to see how it worked. When you sign up for the trial they allocate you the Gold membership but unless you need a few extra features, which I didn't, the Premium plan is a bit cheaper.
   http://www.unotelly.com/unodns/pricing
   
   
4. Setup my router with the UnoDNS settings.
   
   At this stage I could access all the Roku 3 non-subscription channels. No buffering, great quality picture and sound...excellent.
   
   
5. Signed up for Hulu Plus. US$7.99/month
   Now...after doing a lot of reading about how others got access (because Hulu Plus insist you are in the US, using a US credit card to signup) I bought the power seller voucher from http://www.buyfrompowerseller.com/hulu-plus-outside-the-us/
   
   I chose the Hulu Plus outside the US prepaid card which cost $68.99 USD for a Hula Plus card value of $50. So really I paid $18.99 to access the service and it did work (Power seller provides instruction on what to do). Thanks to Unotelly I’ve since found out about Entropay https://www.entropay.com service and am using them because it’s cheaper.
   
   I don't know whether I need to do this but to create my Hulu Plus account I use a free 2 day VPN trial from Purevpn.com. This gave the impression I was in the US when signing up for an account, be aware that the purevpn.com trial only gives you 5x5 minutes access session over the two day trial.
   
   
6. HBO Go
   I feel I could write a book about this! Basically you can't sign up for a HBO Go account unless you have a cable subscription in the US however...you can signup for HBO Nordic http://hbonordic.com/home which gives you access to the same shows I believe. Roku box doesn't support HBO nordic from what I can figure out so I’ve been streaming it via my laptop to the TV – works fine and Unotelly has a setting for it. I found the videos in HD buffered but not in SD.
   
   I signed up for one month to see how it was. I think it worked out at AU$15 for the month but AU$12/month if you take it out for one year.
   
   
7. UK TV
   The US Roku 3 does not have any UK channels (you need a UK Roku for that which in turn doesn't have many uS channels) Many people recommend using Plex to access the BBC player but to be honest I found Plex buggy and unsupported for after a day dedicated to trying to get it to work I uninstalled it and went to for the simpler option of streaming ITV, BBC, C4 and loads of other stuff via UnoTelly channels, and attaching my laptop via a hdmi cable to my TV and watching Coro on that. Mission accomplished.
   
   Approx Costs in Australia dollars:
   US Roku 3 – $110
   Unotelly subscription: $48/year
   Hulu Plus – $96/year
   HBO Go – $144/year
   UK TV – included in cost of Unotelly
   
   There are tonnes of sports and other channels to access for free and subscription; the above just reflect my interest and you can end you subscriptions at any time.
   
   I'm not an expert; I stumbled through the above, so hopefully the above may help someone else."
   
   
   THOUGHTS?

There are really 2 classes of mobile controllers. You have the "pocketable" ones and you have the "full-sized" controllers.

Are you looking for something you can put in your pocket? Or is this going into a backpack or someplace where you'll have more room?

for the "pocketable" controllers, there aren't a ton of options. A few of the more popular ones:

• MOGA Pocket MOGA's first foray into controllers. No D-pad. Kind of cramped. Only 1 set of shoulder buttons. But it's only $18 right now (in the US at least).
  
• MOGA Hero Power Update version of the Pocket. Slightly larger and more comfortable. Has a d-pad. But still only 1 set of shoulder buttons.(fixed) Quite a bit more expensive at $45 USD.
  
• Ipega bluetooth controller d-pad, dual-analog sticks, 1 set of shoulder buttons. There are similar ones made by Nyko and some other companies. I think they're just re-brands of the same generic controller though. $22 USD
  
  I haven't used those, but from what I've read they work pretty well for shorter gaming sessions. An hour or more and your hand is going to feel pretty cramped though.
  
  for the full-sized controllers there are more options.
  
  
• PS3 controller with a gameKlip. I haven't used this myself but people are constantly praising it. Personally, I can't stand the analog stick placement on PS controllers, but if you like it then this is a good solution. However, you said that you're using a tablet, so the gameklip probably won't help you.
  
• XBOX 360 controller with an OTG cable. I use this one all the time. It works really well. Very comfortable, plenty of buttons. Although the d-pad sucks. Another downside is wires. You need the OTG cable to connect to either a wired XBOX controller, or to the xbox wireless receiver
  
• MOGA Pro / Pro Power I have the MOGA Pro, and I use it pretty frequently. I typically use the xbox controller at home, and the MOGA while on the road. It's about 3/4 the size of an xbox controller and therefore not quite as comfortable. It does work very well though. Haven't tried the Pro Power, but it's the newer version. Since they're the same price I'd pick the Pro Power over the older Pro.
  
• NYKO playpad I think this is really very similar to the IPEGA one in terms of build quality. However it has triggers as well as shoulder buttons, a d-pad, and extended grips. Plus it's cheap. Only $20 USD.
  
  One of the main benefits with the MOGA line of controllers is that they have the phone-holder clip built right in. But if you're using this for a tablet, then that doesn't really help you. Therefore I think I'd recommend that you get either an XBOX 360 controller or a PS3 controller. You simply can't beat the quality of those two. MOGA's coming close, but it's not there yet.
  
  
  |Controller Model|Full-Sized|D-Pad|Shoulder Triggers|Wireless|Phone-Holder|Price (USD)|
  |:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|:--|
  |MOGA Pocket| | | | X | X | 18|
  |MOGA Hero Power | | X | X | X | X | 45|
  |MOGA Pro Power| X | X | X | X | X | 50|
  | Ipega bluetooth controller| | X | | X | X | 20|
  |NYKO Playpad | | X | | X | X | 15 |
  |NYKO Playpad Pro| X | X | X | X| | 20|
  | DualShock 3* | X | X | X | X | w/ gameKlip| 40|
  | Wired XBOX 360 Controller | X | X | X | | | 35|
  
  * Dualshock 3 controller (PS3 Controller) requires the Sixaxis app($2.50) and Root (if you want to use bluetooth instead of the OTG)
  \ Xbox 360 Controller requires USB OTG cable (~ $5 shipped)
  

The reason people did that in the late 1990's was some people had at least one console(PS1 or a Saturn) that played cd roms, but not always access to a decent pc with internet. Libraries often had internet access plus burners or the persons knew someone that had access to a pc that could burn cds (as the drives and the cds themselves were extremely cheap). The consoles were typically already modded to get around regional blocks and play the games that they ripped to a cd rom.

You mention the screen, battery, and controller... but those are poor reasons.

You'd take a perfectly good console (that requires a lot of room, and takes ten minutes to setup and tear down every time you move it) and mod it either by using a mod chip (some soldering required), or bootload a different OS using a separate USB drive or external hard drive. This includes multiple steps for prepping either a special cd/dvd, a usb stick, or an additional hard drive. If it's a recent console, you lose the ability to RMA if anything breaks. Any method you use, you'd have to make multiple trips to your PC to get it working. On top of that you get half ass support when it comes to graphics, internet access (minus... the Wii), applying patches, and games and consoles past the gensis/snes era are not going to have any of the support they have today-so you'll have a lot of roms that don't work... and you'll be waiting for some poor soul to port the emulator to your console and support it.

The whole time you're setting that up, you're doing it on a perfectly good PC that has well established emulators that have several years support. I can setup a PS2 emulator that works with greater than 90% of games, and I can basically play effectively all games on any console before that (minus the Atari Jaguar, Saturn, and N64). If it's PS1 or older, I can do it on my cell phone and tablet too.

Wither you're using a console, cell phone, tablet, or pc... being discouraged by 1-2 hours on one battery charge means anything when you're already going to be setting aside space and plugging it in for a console.

Modern tablets and cell phones are pretty sensitive and accurate that you can play a number of action games without being frustrated. If you need more, usb controllers and bluetooth controllers starts at $25 and goes up in price. A decent one in either area goes for about $40 and will last you forever. People acting like they don't have this option in this day and age are either obtuse or really cheap-they sell them at every Walmart.

As far as playing on a big screen, you can use multiple software or hardware options. Some expensive, some cheap depending on your setup and what you're willing to tolerate. You can do it from your cell phone and tablet, or your pc. Playing on a big screen doesn't beat convenience tho.

I recently did a ton of research on tv's cause we plan to upgrade in the near future. At the moment, the most reliable brands are LG, Panasonic, Samsung, and Sony. Out of those, I found a few used tv's that match your requirements.

Samsung 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED HDTV $259 w/ free shipping

LG Electronics 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED $257.50 w/ free shipping


And if you can scrape together a little more money, you could consider this:
Samsung 32-Inch 1080p 60 Hz Smart LED HDTV $294 w/free shipping

I know those are all over $250, but they do have free shipping, and they are all very good tv's. Anyway, I hope you find something awesome! That makes me really want a good tv ;)

I'd love something nice for my son.

I just got these speakers and this receiver. I knew absolutely nothing going into this but somehow managed to set everything up. If you have any amount of tech savvyness at all, you can figure it out. They are a great price and I've loved them so far! I played a few games of Halo with them turned up pretty high and it was the coolest thing ever! I would recommend these as they are a great entry level system and very affordable (compared to the others!).

I didn't know what I was doing at first and ended up getting the speakers and receiver at different times and places. This looks like a combo of my speakers and receiver, but it'll save you a hundred dollars or so. I would not go with a soundbar if I were you. Just go ahead and get a full system.

Edit: Also, with this particular receiver you get a microphone that automatically calibrates all the speakers based on their position once you get it all plugged in. As I knew nothing about this kind of stuff, it made everything real nice and easy.

i can try to give you some tips because i too came with almost the same question, and after reading various threads on reddit and other AV forums. i decided to get a 49 because thats the minimum size where HDR really kicks in. Also there arent any really good 43 tvs out there.

but i can try to name you some good 43 tvs, i have been on a journey while researching for a tv to buy.

decent 43 tvs:

TCL P607 & TCL S405 are a really good option and r/4k loves it, so does everybody who knows about this stuff. they are only availble in the stats, and the european TCL's arent as good as the Americans. I have read that tvs arent that bright for some people but you get alot for the money. very low input.

Samsung MU6300

Edge lit, bright and low input. It has higher rating on rtings then Nu7 series and sony X720e. tbf i really liked the Nu7000 in the stores.

I think you should read about some good tvs in 43 size and then go to your closest store and see them for yourself. like i said before, i seriously think you should upgrade to 49 and get a Sony Xe900/x900e or Xf900/x900f.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&ie=UTF8

If it has to be a 43, then i would have gone for the TCL. only reason i didnt buy it was is that im not from the states. In my opinion you cant get a better tv for that size or money then a TCL. in a dark room, brightness shouldnt be a problem. Also search for TCL s405 owner thread on AV forums for experiences from the people who actually own the TV. i have told you from what i have read and it seem to be a very popular choice. good luck.

Edit: after a quick google search, it seems like TCL p607 comes in 43. defiantly go for p607 over S405

$1000 - The best ones for that price on the market currently is either a 50 or a 55 inch Samsung 6350 series. They cost $947 or $1040 respectively. They have great specs, even better reviews and are gorgeous in person. If you set it up correctly, its picture quality is pretty ridiculous for this price range, it makes me wonder why people ever buy way more expensive TVs.

Another option would be the just released two weeks ago 50 inch Vizio P series. It is the best cheap 4K tv on the market now. That being said, the Samsung above is better in every measurable way except for resolution. Since, there wont be much 4K content for a few more years and 4K is worthless unless you plan to sit really close to it (<5ft for a 50 inch). I would go with the Samsung and wait till my next TV to go 4K (or fingers crossed OLED).

If you want bigger, I would go with the 60 inch LG 5900 series for $929. Again not as nice as the Samsung, but a really good TV for the price. One problem though is the stand is weird and you'd need to either mount it or own something wide to put it on.

Under $300 - This is actually a booming market these days, there are a lot of good options depending on what your needs are. The best two sets available are the 32 inch LG 5600 series for $279 and the 32 inch Samsung 5000 series for $297. The one caveat is that neither of these are smart TVs, if you need smart features I would go with the $298 Vizio M322. Or you could go with the LG and buy a Chromecast or Roku.

Personally I recently bought the $348 Samsung 5500 series for my bedroom and its the nicest small TV I've ever had. It works great as a second monitor (although any of these should).

I would say that the Klipsch is a lot better and worth the extra $216, but then again, you would also need an amp and that would cost you a lot more. You just need to really determine if you want to go the passive route and have the ability to upgrade more down the road or get a simple powered system that will work just fine for what you need and sounds great, but not have the ability to upgrade components.

​

Here a few good options in either category though that would fit your budget:

​

Passive Setup:

Speakers:

Fluance Signature - $269 CAD

Polk S20 - $350 CAD

Elac Debut B6.2 - $343 CAD

Elac Uni-Fi UB5 - $522 CAD (Considered to be just as good as the Klipsch RP-150M)

Klipsch RP-150M - $289 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

SVS Prime - $629 CAD (Can’t tell if this listing is for a pair)

Amps:

SMSL AD18 - $174 CAD

Yamaha RX-V385 - $279 CAD

Denon AVR-S540BT - $377 CAD

​

Powered Setup:

Fluance Ai40 - $225 CAD

Fluance Ai60 - $403 CAD

Edifier S2000 Pro - $500 CAD

Vanatoo Transparent Zero - $359 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

​

Studio Monitor Setup:

Monitors:

JBL 305P MKII - $440 CAD

Interfaces:

Behringer UMC202HD - $104 CAD

Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen - $159 CAD

Steinberg UR22MKII - $180 CAD

​

The studio monitor setup is one of my favorites. The JBL’s sound amazing on a desktop, but I would not get one without an audio interface with balanced inputs to help reduce noise.

From experience, you're not going to want a massive TV in a dorm. You might think you have a lot of room but once you get all your stuff moved in, you'll be shocked at how little space you have. Especially if you have to share the room with another person like I did. I don't know if you do or not. That being said, I currently have this TV: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407569960&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+32+inch+1080p. I bought it probably 8 months ago and it's really nice. For gaming, it looks great and LED is a lot more reliable than LCD or Plasma. Even though Plasma supposedly offers the best picture for games. It's not the smart version, but I don't need it since I use my TV as a monitor. TV brands are important though, you definitely want Sony, Samsung, or LG. Don't settle for any others. My roommate has a 42" Sony and it's really awesome! My other roommate has a 50" Phillips and it's decent.

Yes. There are more than a couple 4k TVs that are capable of running at 1080p120 either natively or with some tweaking. I'm not sure of many that support >1080p and >60Hz simultaneously.

Blurbusters has a useful post on the subject.

http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/

They also have some forums with people posting about their successful overclocks over here.

http://www.blurbusters.com/overclock/120hz-pc-to-tv/

This site is useful for finding the input lag of TVs but only lists the display refresh rate rather than the actual refresh rate the TV will accept from an input.

https://displaylag.com/display-database/

This site is extremely useful at confirming that a given TV supports true 120Hz:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/best/by-usage/pc-monitor

Here's a decent TV with very little input lag:

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/sj8500

There are some cool OLEDs that support 1080p 120Hz like this one. I would absolutely recommend OLED if you can afford it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDF9S1G?tag=rtings-tv-bm11b-20&ie=UTF8

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you Lastty. We ended up getting this https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-HTP-074-Channel-Theater-Package/dp/B01JOBIFP2.

My dad just wanted one with a subwoofer and that plus the price did it for him. I tried to convince him that the quality:price of what you recommended would be much better and he would be happier and could just buy a subwoofer later, but he said it was ok because considering he was happy with the ancient system he had, this new one would still be an upgrade.

I'll definitely come back here for my own upgrade questions though. This is my system http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882120182. I'll probably upgrade the speakers. To me, they sound pretty damn good, but like I told my dad, we haven't had something better so we don't know.

To what extent is the receiver important? I was thinking of upgrading the whole thing later but if the speakers are far more important I might just do that first.

lmao def would check it out if I had the ability, sounds pretty decent.

Also I have a few more questions if you don't mind..

So I was also thinking about a certified refurbished 4k TV from Amazon, just not sure about that.

And then I found two 4k TCLs that are both 2018 models but I'm not sure the difference, can you tell what the difference is?

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) ($250)

TCL 43S517 43-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) ($300)

Probably because one is Smart Roku and the other is Roku Smart lol /s

I also forgot to ask for TCLs is the Contrast Control Zone (CCZ) worth it? The TV would be in a bright room with lots of windows and glare.

Quick release stands should be fine if you need them. As long as the lighthouses are stable anything works.

I bought the FastCap mounts... and didn't use them. They are overly obtrusive and you are much better served, imo, by installing small corner shelves or just mounting the lighthouse's included stands to the wall. It's really not worth putting up those stands. They are neat but imo not the best way to go.

For my VR room I used the following to provide unobtrusive access to the VR Pc (note the PC is in the closet and the door can be closed when in use):

Keyobard mount (I then used a Logitech keyboard and trackball with magnets to secure them when the mount is closed): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018D5ALDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TV wall mount and a 4k TV (40 inch). One note here... I don't recommend this for a larger 4k tv like what I have here as you are too close to the display when using the keyboard. It's great for people to see whats going on while observing but it's harder to work with when accessing the PC out of VR. Use a smaller display.

TV and mount:
TV:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DK5PZFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TV Mount:
ttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYVBR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll post pictures of the room sometime. I like what the OP did with the gym mats. Good look and protection but if you do your chaperone properly it's probably not necessary (but certainly doesn't hurt).

Lastly I have all of the equipment running on Smartthings controlled switches so I can power on the "room" (PC, display, lighthouses, etc etc) on demand. I normally turn off the PC normally and have BIOS set to power on the PC when power is restored (ie the Smartthings switch is turned on). So I can tell my Amazon Echo to "Alexa, turn on the VR Room" and everything powers on and is ready for use when I get there.

To echo others in the thread, most tablets and laptops will be more expensive than some of the small set-top boxes for digital media, like the Roku 2 XS, Roku 3, Amazon Fire TV, or WDTV. All have their trade-offs, but I know the first 3 at least can connect to a few varieties of media server on a separate computer, such as the very popular Plex, or play local media from an attached USB device. They all sell at $100 USD or less right now.

I have used both the USB and Plex options personally on Roku 2 XS and Amazon FireTV and really enjoyed the experience, though my preference of the two is Plex for a home setup, while USB is fairly convenient if you want to go binge a show at a friend's house.

The Plex client for the device should support more than one server machine, so if you have other members of the household with their own media, they can fire up a Plex server of their own when they want to watch on the set-top box.

I cannot say anything about the WD TV from first hand knowledge, only the Roku series and Amazon Fire TV.

For HDMI there's HDMI switches. One output port (to the TV) with 2, 3, 4, etc inputs. Usually they can switch automatically based on whats powered on, sometimes they'll have a remote for you to select the device yourself, and there will be a button on the device itself to switch inputs. You can find them on Amazon, but it can be a real crapshoot since the vast majority are just generic Chinese things that any random "company" will just slap their name on and sell for whatever. I've never had a problem with the ones I've bought on Amazon (knock on wood), but you'll find most devices will have plenty of bad reviews. You can also find more name brand HDMI switches in stores like Best Buy, Fry's, etc, but they'll be WAY more expensive, like $40+ compared to like $12 for some chinese one on Amazon. I can't speak to the quality of those, since I've never bought them. They'll be easier to return and replace if there are any problems, so thats a plus.


For composite video (Yellow, White, Red cables) there's been switches for those for years. Just look for A/V Switch, Composite Switch, RCA Switch, etc. I bought one like 15 years ago so I can't really recommend anything today. There's also component ones (Green, Blue, Red, and Red and White audio).


If you want to get hardcore you can also get a home theater receiver (like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=dp_ob_title_ce) which will have a few HDMI ports as well as basic composite inputs, though there are some that will do component. This is the most expensive option, but if you're serious about having a home theater with surround sound, it's pretty much the only option.

For turntable and setup questions do use the Weekly Questions Thread top sticky post or click the button on the right sidebar. Though you can reply here and I can still respond after this post gets removed.

Pass on the stereo mini system.

For use with a TV, turntable and Bluetooth, an AV receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers.

Used:

• Best to first look for a used AV receiver or even a stereo receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers. kijiji.ca, or even canuckaudiomart.com may have a few budget deals mixed in with higher end stuff. Some Canadian speaker brands to look for are PSB or Paradigm besides many other brands, KEF, Polk, Klipsch etc.
  
• Or get one used an the other new. For example it may be easier to find used speakers in good working condition since there is few parts to break. Then get a new receiver.
  
  AV Receiver: With 4K HDMI switching. You can also add more speakers later for surround sound for movies and TV. Music stays 2 channel.
  
  Great price on this 7.2:
  
  
• Best Buy Onkyo TX-SR383 7.2-Channel Network A/V Receiver $300 CAD.
  
• Electronics Express Onkyo TX-SR383 7.2 Channel 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver $300 CAD.
  
  If it sells out or the sale ends, the 5.2 base model options:
  
  
• Onkyo TX-SR373 $250 CAD.
  
• Yamaha RXV385 $280 CAD
  
• Denon AVRS540BT $300 CAD.
  
  Speakers:
  
  
• Canadian Fluance: Elite Series High Definition Two-way Bookshelf Loudspeakers $173 CAD or Signature Series HiFi Two-way Bookshelf Surround Sound Speakers $265 CAD
  
• Pioneer SP-BS22-L $150 CAD.
  
  Speaker wire: PrimeCables Oxygen-Free Copper Cable (50ft 14AWG) and cut to size, or 6 foot pair Micca Pure Copper Speaker Wire with Gold Plated Banana Plugs, 14AWG, 6 Feet (2 Meter), Pair.
  
  Speaker Stands (US Examples): Dayton Audio SSMB24, Monoprice Glass or Monolith by Monoprice and Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon.
  
  Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • How to position your speakers for great sound – U-Turn Audio • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.
  
  ​
  
  Powered Bookshelf Speakers:
  
  Another option is powered bookshelf speakers with analog RCA input for your turntable, bluetooth for your phone, optical digital input for your TV and USB input for your computer. It also has a subwoofer out jack like the AV receiver. However you can't upgrade one part at a time like you can with separates and you can't later add more speakers for surround sound for movies and TV.
  
  
• Ai60 High Performance Powered 6.5” Bookshelf Speakers $400 CAD

Here are some thoughts that I had.

1. The budget is pretty health for a simple 2.0 setup which is what I would go with.
   
2. I would go with just some decent sized books to get a good overall sound quality. You don't need a sub for the music you listen to and you don't want to anger the neighbors.
   
3. I would probably go with something that you can add in the TV too as the wife is always right in the end. However, I'm thinking the speakers will be pretty far apart from the TV to get a good balanced sound for it. It will fill the room with sound with each speaker in the respective corners of the room.
   
   I'm going to assume you're in the US so here are some options I would look at.
   
   Amp - This makes the sound come out of the speakers. I'm a passive fan so yes I would get an amp. Pick one.
   
   

• Denon S540 $230 - Basic AVR that will allow you to add in the TV or whatever sources you would like. You can also expand to surround sound/multi channel stereo if you wanted to.
  
• SMSL AD18 $145 - 2.1 channel mini amp that does have an optical for TV hookup. If you just want two channels this can do the trick. I do prefer the AVR but that's just me.
  
  Speakers - I would go with a decent sized bookshelf in order to get some bass. Pick one.
  
  
• Boston A26 $210pr - Larger book that has a smooth sound.
  
• KEF Q150 refurb $300 - These go on sale but right now this is best deal going. These sound fantastic and the bass these can make will surprise you. These would be my choice, I own them.
  
• Polk S20 $210 - Polk really stepped it up with these. The low end is nice and they have the power port to allow them to be closer the wall if needed.
  
  Consider getting some stands for the speakers so you can get them off the wall a bit. I would also look into getting some banana plugs for the speaker wire. You will need some wire ask if you need recommendations.

Additional pictures/gifs if anyone's interested:

https://imgur.com/a/hShEq2F

EDIT: Thought I'd include links for some things being asked for on here. I didn't purchase everything new nor recently so there are some things I wasn't able to ID.

Art/Deco:

• "Kiss More Often" Wall art
  
  • Thanks to those that pointed out that the Amazon tapestry isn't affiliated with or supporting the original artist. I've linked to the artist's store instead
    
• Gold Trellis Wallpaper
  
• Bed Rest Pillow
  
  • I got this at Target but can't find the exact one. Amazon seems to have a bunch.
    
• Bedding/Comforter
  
  • I can't remember where this comforter came from since I've had it for so long. I'd recommend looking out for decent sales or checking HomeGoods for decently priced comforters
    
• Bed Throw Blanket
  
• Couch Throw Blanket
  
• White Corduroy Couch Pillow Covers
  
• Couch
  
  • Found it for cheap on Craigslist and can't provide an ID
    
• Floor Rug
  
  • Found it on Craigslist as well. It's a Safavieh Hudson Shag Rug
    
• Bedside Floor Rug
  
• Anti-Fatigue Mat for the Standing Desk
  
• 5-Arm Floor Lamp
  
• Ottoman with Storage
  
  • Found this on a marketplace (LetGo) and can't find any identifying details
    
• Incense Holder
  
• Duct Tape for Framing and Line Work
  
  Technology/Peripherals:
  
  
• Standing Desk
  
  • Buying the desk without the tabletop knocks off about $100 . It might be a cost-effective solution if you want to build a custom-tabletop/desk for under $300
    
• KRK Rokit 5 Studio Monitors
  
• Studio Monitor Stands
  
• TCL 43 Inch 4K TV
  
• Adjustable TV Desk Mount
  
• JBL 5.1 Home Theater Speaker System
  
  • Look for Amazon Warehouse deals on this stuff. I found a set for $100 below the price for a brand new set
    
• Yamaha RX-V383 AV Receiver
  
  • Found this used on LetGo
    
• Led Light Strips
  
  • I've had my light strips for years so I can't provide a specific ID for mine. I linked to a set that uses the same wifi controller as mine but you can shop around. I used 4 strips to do the bed backlighting, under-lighting and desk backlighting
    
• Led Wifi Controllers
  
  • If you have a led strip that doesn't have a wifi controller, you can purchase a compatible controller to take advantage of home automation

In order to have true surround sound, you will need an "audio receiver". A receiver takes in several different inputs (3.5 mm jack, RCA inputs, HDMI video and audio, bluetooth), and then you select which input is played over the speakers. The receiver will take care of amplification, so all you need are bare speakers and wire.

You should check out this Yamaha receiver

You can use a good receiver for decades, so I suggest investing in a good quality one. I own the predecessor to the linked receiver, and I really like it.

It looks like your subwoofer can actually amplify and power your speakers, but you won't get 5.1 surround sound. The best you can get is left, right and subwoofer. Also the input looks kinda tricky because it's bare wires. You'll need something like this to get the audio input to work.

If you can afford it, I recommend going for the receiver, or I can give you more detail on how to hook up the subwoofer-only amplifier. What device are you getting music from? Smart phone jack, DVD player, computer?

Nevermind, I can post several links obviously

Indoor Outdoor Projector Screen,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1VLRZ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

J-Tech Digital Ultra HD 4K HDMI to HDMI + Audio (Spdif + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter(Support Apple TV 4 Gen) Premium Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YHS5E6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G8ZdIxDbFbxhh

VANKYO Leisure 510 Full HD Projector with 3600 Lux, Video Projector with 200" Projection Size, Support 1080P HDMI VGA AV USB with Free HDMI Cable and Carrying Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2Y5LX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MxYBCbDMFNHW7

Jeteven Polyester Hanging... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WWRRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AUKEY Table Lamp, Touch Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJ7F14I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mini Dj Disco Ball Party Stage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RKPSDK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sennheiser HD 579 Open Back... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1IIF1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Flash Furniture High Back Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012JJ2EEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

P3 P4330 Kill A Watt Ps 10 Surge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OG94VW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LG 29WK600-W 29" UltraWide 21:9... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL93KG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Onkyo TX-SR373 5.2 Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kCYBCbJTN8QJ1

Polk Audio T15 100 Watt Home Theater Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) - Premium Sound at a Great Value | Dolby and DTS Surround | Wall-Mountable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCYBCbX2TX5XM

Polk Audio PSW10 10" Powered Subwoofer - Featuring High Current Amp and Low-Pass Filter | Up to 100 Watts | Big Bass at a Great Value | Easy integration Home Theater Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mDYBCbWN7VD6T

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3DYBCbZ7TGJ9X

Plus an Asus rog laptop gtx 1060 16gb ram, two ps3s, Corsair hs60 headphones, vmoda Crossfade wireless, a Google chromecast

I have the asus monitor u posted but without the speakers. Any monitor ive ever had with speakers the speakers sucked. The monitor is great tho, I use it all the time on my pc to play games on and Im sure it will be great for the xbox.

I say if your gonna buy a monitor, buy a monitor without speakers and use the extra money to either get a decent headset or speakers. But, in my opinion when your playing on consoles my preference is playing on a tv. I sometimes play 2player games and you cant really do that on a monitor. Plus sometimes you wanna kick back on a bed or sit a few feet away from the screen and a monitor doesnt really let you do that.

http://www.amazon.com/LG-32LN5300-32-Inch-LED-lit-1080p/dp/B00BB0ZTM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393922744&sr=8-1&keywords=1080p+tv

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393922744&sr=8-3&keywords=1080p+tv

> So I need to find a way to turn the Monitor into a recording device, not a playback device. Is there any way to do this?

Not too sure on that exactly, but I have an alternative for you that may be easier, which is basically how to get the same thing you had with your 360.

The XBox One can output audio over optical, so you simply have to convert that to 3.5mm, and the route to that is a DAC:

What I did when I first got my XBox1 and had a monitor without speakers was I used an optical -> 3.5mm active converter then put it into the line-in/mic port on my motherboard and set the listen option like you did with your 360. (On the XB1 in audio settings you can set it to output audio on the optical.)

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA It comes with an optical cable, so all you should need is a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable to run between it and the line-in on your computer or speakers. (and a free power outlet)

 

 

(The following is extra information in case you want to output now or in the future to a 5.1 surround sound setup but don't have a receiver that can take XB1 input already)

 

 

I've upgraded since so that the XB1 can output to my surround speakers. I have speakers that have two inputs on them in front/rear/and center. I use Altec Lansing ACS41 for rear and center and Bose Companion 2 for the fronts. Then I have the optical from the XB1 going into one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y . (Then this one is personal to my system to allow me to easily control volume balance without having to run around to each speaker and disrupting the PC's balance which also go into those speakers.) I have three of these: http://www.sescom.com/product.asp?item=SES-MKP-27 One for Front, Center, and Rear, next to each other on my desk, and then from there they go to the speakers.

I think you should treat yourself by buying the Roku player. That way, you can watch ALL of the episodes of Parks and Rec, Doctor Who, Game of Thrones, and anything else your heart desires on the largest TV you own!

As for how I'd treat myself, I would buy either this motivational tank or this nerdy one because I've gotten really good at getting exercise into my weekly schedule (I have a 2 hour boxing class, a 45 minute Soul Cycle class, as well as one or two 3-mile walks). Plus, I've lost a good amount of weight so far and I would like to look good while breaking a sweat!

If you are truly insistent on using these speakers, you could purchase this optical to coax/3.5mm converter for like $35. 1st disclaimer is I have never used one of these and have no idea what the results/quality will be so you're on your own for that one!
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y
[Ok, here is my 2nd disclaimer: Personally I think this is a silly idea. I do not think this is the route you want to go if you really want a surround sound setup. And spending this much on an adapter to use speakers that are maybe $60 (that's what...$10 each??) is kind of silly in my mind.
I don't think you will be happy with the results.
If you want surround sound, I think the entry level point would be to look for a used 5.1 receiver on craigslist that accepts optical audio.
If that's not doable, I think working towards a nice 2 channel setup is way more rewarding than a super-super-budget, pseudo-5.1 setup.]
Ok, sure, to each their own though. Really.

Any reason you're tied down to a powered 2.0 system? I loved my Promedia's and when I was finally looking to upgrade after 6 years with them, I was looking at other all in one systems. After further reading, I was convinced to get an AV receiver and a pair of bookshelf speakers. I highly recommend going a similar route. It really gives you a lot more flexibility and room to grow.

I ended up with a Yamaha RX-V381 and a pair of Sony SSCS5's for about $300.

Since then I've added a center and will soon add a sub without having to replace the whole system.

The Sony's just went on sale again and a pair is $75. I'd get those and shop around for a receiver that matches your budget. (consider refurbished/renewed)

Whereas with the promedia, you had a single auxilliary cord that had to be ru nth whatever you're listening to. Having a receiver allows hookup to all your devices and lokely will add bluetooth as well. Changing inputs is done via remote rather than manually dealing with cords.

If you want to go super low budget that will still blow the promedias away, you can grab a cheap Lepy/Laepai amp like this to run a pair of bookshelfs (ie. Sony CS5 <--GET these):

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M2WIJL2PC1PM&keywords=lepai+amplifier&qid=1563810359&s=gateway&sprefix=lepai+amp%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3#customerReviews

​

If you are set on a powered AIO system, my recommendation is JBL LSR305 over the two you mentioned. I have not heard either of those, but I temporarily owned the LSR305 and they were absurdly good. I only didn't keep them, because I got a noise complaint from the neighbors on day one and they were a little complicated dealing with multiple inputs.

​

A few receiver options:

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD

​

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

​

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

​

Link to Sony Bookshelfs (also at best buy):

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA

A 2.1 system made of individual components (not a theater-in-a-box) will still knock your socks off if you're used to a soundbar. I think high quality audio is more immersive over mediocre surround sound anyways.

I went for maximum bang for the buck with my setup, sound quality improves drastically with every dollar spent up to a point. The return gets marginal once you soend more than $300 on a receiver, $150 on bookshelf speakers, and $200 on a subwoofer.

I'd recommend the following parts for a good setup and I listed some budget options you could substitute without losing too much quality:

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V377 or RX-V375 (what I have). They're $250 and $220 respectively (the 375 is usually $200) and they both have enough HDMI inputs for any normal person. The 377 supports 4K passthrough so it may be more future proof but I don't think 4K will catch on (just like 3D) since the benefits are marginal at typical viewing distances.

Speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR's (what I have) or Micca MB42X's. Both are frequently on sale for $80-100 and they both sound awesome. If you're on a budget, the Dayton B652's are legendary for the the price ($40). They changed (cheapened) the design and ruined it last year but quickly brought the original design back. They fixed their mistake but they could ruin it again at any time.

Subwoofer: Bic F12 America (what I have). It's $190 but it will ruin your perception of every subwoofer you've ever owned. Once you experience crisp, clear bass you can never go back to over amplified 6" "woofers" like you get with a soundbars or the plastic junk that comes in boxed 5.1 kits. If you're on a budget, the Monoprice 12" sub is $108 and is supposed to be the absolute minimum you can spend to get something acceptable.

Ancilliaries: Buy your cables from Amazon (Amazon Basics brand) or Monoprice but I highly recommend this $9, paintable cable management kit and an afternoon of patience. Your wires will be invisible and your sound system will make your friends jealous.

I know many people hate on home theaters in a box. But I think they are quite worth it especially for people on a budget. I do have a sound bar that comes with the subwoofer. But I prefer to watch movies on my 5.1 home theater system . https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Home-Theater-System-HTP-074/dp/B01JOBIFP2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1AHU49SRCO1WF&keywords=5.1+home+theater+system&qid=1557899170&s=gateway&sprefix=5.1+home%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-4I purchased this one and don't regret it one bit. Word of caution if you dont take the time to set it up it will sound absolutely horrible after being plug in but if you take the time to adjust the settings it sounds awesome.If you are planning on spending on a sound bar 200 my recommendation is to buy this one is only 349.99 at this time but worth it.

In the future I'm planning on investing in better set up but for now this is good . All my friends enjoy watching movies at my house with this system

​

edit.: forgot to add I bought this on July 9,2017 and is still going on strong.

I would say a few things:

• You may or may not be able to see the difference on a 43 inch TV that is 1080 or 4K. It depends on how close to the TV you are.
  
• 4K TVs at this range are very affordable nowadays so it makes little sense IMO to get a 1080 set, even at 43 inches.
  
• Depending on the specific 4K set you are getting, any differences or improvements may or may not be present.
  
• I was just mentioning in another thread that I just got this TCL / Roku one a few weeks back. It's a secondary TV for a basement wall, so I didn't need anything great there. So far it's very good for the price: TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) . It's $249 on Amazon.
  
• If you have room for a larger TV, it might be wise to look for deals on larger ones, as they are out there to be had as well.
  
  Good luck with your decision.

Found this model of Samsung used in your price range. Has very good reviews. (:

If not this one, I would go check out your local Walmart. They often run specials on TV's that have been used as displays. My brother-in-law got one incredibly cheap, and it was a name brand like you are looking for!

And I really like surprises. (:

Can anybody please do me a favor and tell me if this TV would be a good buy for me if I want to play 4k games on it?

here is the amazon link for the tv:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

here is the rting review:
http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300

I want to buy the 40 inch version, it supports HDR10, 4k and has an input lag of about 20msec (which is good for the price IMO, around $450)

Please let me know if you guys have any suggestions!

More info on what? The shield? There's a few versions - regular and pro, with and without game controller.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/ref=twister_B00U37EA38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It all depends on what you want to run. It used to be that if you had specific things you wanted like Prime Video for example, you had to go with something specific. That's mostly no longer the case anymore.

Apple TV is fantastic for almost all provider based apps with their TV section. If you have subs to things like HBO Go, Netflix, Hulu, etc. Doesn't support things like Kodi (There is an alternative to Kodi 16 called MrMc though), and forget about terrium. I've given up on most of those things since switching to plex shares, and now emby shares anyway, it's way more user friendly than constantly dicking with Kodi and the occasional crashes. To me it's the most polished of the 4 options, and the remote is the nicest to use.

For Android TV the shield is hard to justify, but nothing else touches it in terms of smoothness. It's on par with the Apple TV in terms of how effortless it runs. The remote kind of sucks though, and it's more expensive. It is better than the Mi, but $100 better? Only if you care about 4K amazon video or a few other things like that. If you're into Kodi then you probably want the Shield, or even the Shield Pro. It's the only box that can really handle it reasonably well. Kodi will literally turn my Mi Box into a fiery inferno until it eventually locks up due to thermal protection.

FireTV is kind of the outsider. It can do most everything a Mi Box can do, but is mainly geared towards buying and watching all things amazon. You can sideload things onto it though. Some people prefer the interface to Amazon TV, but I'm not sold. Never really did like the Prime App. The stick as you've discovered is woefully underpowered though. The previous gen box is ok though, more powerful than the Mi Box but not as much as the Shield.

Roku is kind of the "keep it simple" of the bunch. They aren't a content provider like Apple, Fire TV, etc, so they remained neutral and had the most app support for a long time (except Apple Movies). Prime Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc, they were one of the only ones that had it all for a long time. I find that the interface is kind of dumb and woefully outdated though. It feels slower than just about everything else, and it's very restrictive on what you can do with it. You can't even set your own DNS or static IP for christ's sake. The other poster did have it right though, it is very stable and simple. I see a lot of older people using Roku.

When it says "Ships from and sold by Amazon" like this, I agree that Amazon sets the price.

But when it says "Sold by Fulfilled by Amazon" like this, Amazon does not set the price.

So, I only responded to point out that being fulfilled by amazon does not mean that amazon sets the price.

I'm a big fan of the Amazon Fire Stick. It's $39.99 but runs an Android OS. You can sideload apps on it, which means you can install pretty much any Android app you'd like.

It's a little pricier, but I like the fact that it comes with a physical remote. Don't get me wrong, I love the Chromecast, especially for the price. Just wanted to drop another option in the mix for you.

I got a Samsung 40 inch which will replace my old RCA 1080 I've had since 2012. It's currently the best selling 4K set on Amazon and supports HDR as well. Plan is to sell my old TV for $150 or whatever I can get from Craigslist that way I'll end up spending only slightly under $300 on the 4K set because free Prime shipping and Amazon doesn't charge tax in my state.

Here's a link: Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KXX0xbVPR10VC

Wait for TVs to go on sale, don’t sell yourself short. Easy to find a good deal. But keep in mind you get what you pay for. HDR is big when looking for a tv. Games that don’t support 4k but have HDR is a nice boost to the color depth.

If you are patient grey Thursday/Black Friday/cyber Monday always have good deals.

This t.v. Is 100 bucks off amazon right now and seems to fit your budget. It is their 4 series.
I personally have never owned a tv from this company, I usually stay with Sony, Samsung, and LG and have yet to be disappointed.


4 series.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527285148&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4k+uhd+tv&dpPl=1&dpID=51xTjwmi4lL&ref=plSrch

6 series
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ

I did this on the new firestick with Alexa and put it on the TV at my sweetheart's house. It works wonderfully for streaming apps but there is not much memory for media to be stored on the device or any way to add local storage. I haven't connected any network storage at her house to see how well that works but I imagine it is fine. The firestick runs KODI like a champ. It also has Netflix and Amazon apps.

Sorry, I'm trying to keep up.

I just decided on a slightly better receiver. I don't know if it'll make much of a difference


Anyways, I don't like the idea of going cheaper on the selector, because I want to keep the impedance protection. It sounds like that's important to make sure everything runs correctly and doesn't hurt the equipment?

I don't know if it matters that I'll lose power each time I turn on a new speaker, because I only plan to run 1 room at a time. I was planning to only use this from 1 source, like bluetooth over my smartphone, but now I'm thinking it'll be nice to hook this up to my TV via the HDMI port. Will that be possible with the actual speaker ports are connected to the house sound?

Thanks for the help. I know me reply is hard to grasp.

This will depend on what you want to do. For gaming the Gear VR is best, for a basic headset I bought the Mattel View Master and I like it. No strap, no access to headphone port so you would want Bluetooth headphones, but it's a real nice sturdy head set. It also comes with a little augmented reality disk that's pretty neat.

If you have / can find a 17-22V laptop power supply you could try this ($40, no power supply included):
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/

It's a 5.5* 2.1mm connector, looks exactly like the one on my Dell laptop 19V power supply. (To get the full power from the amp, use something closer to the high end of the voltage. See the "Product Description" for specs on how the power supply voltage affects the amplifier power. People do use 12V, because there are lots of them around, but the watts per channel will be reduced.)

The power also depends on the amps - you'd need a 4-5 amp power supply. (Total watts = volts x amps, with some efficiency loss as it runs though the amp; that will be the constraint on the total output power in both channels, total. Eg, a power supply with 19 volts x 4 amps / 2 channels = 38 watts per channel at 100% efficiency, a little less in the real world.)

Don't know anything about it other than what's on the web, but AFAICT they use decent components. The TPA3116D2 chip is a good one.

The Amazon page above has some alternatives in the comparison section.

And buying through Amazon has some advantages, if you find it's not as advertised.

Starting to jump down this rabbit hole of audiophilism (is that even a word?) Looking to replace my AIWA CX-NA202 from the 90s.

​

Was going to just settle for an edifier r1850db but with many hours of research it seems that a passive set up may be the way to go?

​

The first passive setup I was going to attempt to try was the -

Nobsound Mini TPA3116

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ADPE7GPX91ORE&psc=1

Micca MB42X

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS&psc=1

Which puts me under ~$150

​

But I have been hearing people just recommending an AVR, which I have landed on the Denon x1400 or x2400 which I may be able to pick up used for ~$200. Should I pair this with a Micca MB42X? Or are their other speakers that would work better with this?

​

Budget and currency - Under $300, USD
In which country are you located - USA
Where can you buy from - Amazon.com
What you want to use it for (music, movies, games, all of the above, etc) - All of the above, this will be a setup for my computer.
On a desk or in a room (or both) - On a desk in my room
How big of a space and how loud - Approximately a 12 feet x 12 feet room, not too loud and don't need much bass for now (still want the path to add a sub thou).

Thanks all in advance!

> I was wondering what the ms of this TV is since it has 120Hz, 4k, and 40 inches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
>
> What are the disadvantages or advantages of using a TV as your monitor? (I know about the angle viewing but that does not bother me)
>
> My current setup is using, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001095
>
> As my secondary and https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIAC4Z5240434 as my primary.
>
> I would also be happy with a monitor or great TV (good response time?) along 32 inches.

Where do I find refresh rates?

Speaker quality scales with your budget. Much more so than any other part of your system.

Adding a $100 power amp to $400 speakers is reasonable. But looking at the rest of your setup, you may want to visit an audio showroom (if there's one local to you) and audition some speakers, to get an idea how $400 speakers compare to more expensive speakers.

That said, I personally have Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 speakers ($300) and KEF Q100 speakers ($550 reduced to $250 on clearance) and I like the KEFs best.

The KEFs are paired with a Yamaha AV receiver ($220), and the Wharfedales are paired with an SMSL SA-50 ($62) amp.

I also have a pair of Edifier R1280T powered speakers, and they aren't in the same class, at all. There are definitely better choices for powered speakers.

Your guide is awesome, but I have kind of a special use case that I need advice on. I want a 5.1 setup, that uses my PC as a reciever (my motherboard has outputs for a full 7.1 setup), and is good for both gaming at my desk and listening to music/watching movies across the room on my bed.

The issue with my PC as a reciever is that it doesn't output enough power for some speakers. Right now, my GF's parents gifted a Sony 5.1 setup, but the reciever sounded terrible in my opinion, which is why I want to use my PC. L/R output loud enough for now with these speakers, but center/sub and RL/RR are super quiet. I have a Lepai 2024 as a stop-gap to get use out of my center/sub, which works ok, except that the bass sounds muddy, which I've read (I don't know) is an issue with the cheap amp.

I want to upgrade all around. I'm not an audiophile, so I don't want to spend crazy amounts, but I notice if it sounds like trash. I was thinking Micca MB24X for L/R, mounted on the wall above my monitor, and matching center placed underneath my monitor, the Dayton 800 or 1000 for the sub, and the $70 Sound Appeal for rears. To power it all, I was going to use amps. Somewhere on Reddit, someone was recommending this $40 amp, that supposedly has much better bass the the current Lepai I have and is cheaper than the SMSL 36 that's currently at $51.99 on amazon. Am I being stupid? Should I just get a reciever? I just don't want to drop $200 right now, I could buy one piece at a time doing it this way, but it does seem like a waste.

looking to buy a new TV. I'm settled on 55 in LED 4k. I want to spend $500 - $1000. It needs to last me a long time as I don't plan on upgrading for a while. Last one I bought was a 42 in plasma about 5-6 years ago and its still fine never had any issues.

Is black friday probably the best time to buy? Cyber monday? I'm hoping to find the best deal on amazon since i have some points on there i was saving. I originally was looking at this:TCL 55S405 55-Inch because of the price and reviews. but after looking at some other sites I was leaning more towards one of these through Amazon Warehouse:

• Sony XBR55X900E
  
• Samsung UN55MU9000
  
• Samsung Electronics UN55MU8000
  
  Is there a good subreddit for this?
  
  EDIT: BTW, I do not game on my TVs. Primarily TV/Netflix/kids movies and some sports

I was looking for the same thing. I couldn't find anything great. The only one I considered was the SteelSeries one, but it's pretty expensive. Edit: It looks like this Nyko one gets good reviews and has decent reviews.

I went the Xbox 360 route but only so that I could do multiplayer on it, and because of potential controller lag (I hook mine up to the TV). Consider it if you want to eventually do that.

There is a USB adapter on Amazon that gives you two ports. Another thing that could free up the USB port is a 64gb SD card. That's were I currently put my Steam games.

Hi all, thanks a lot for the replies.
The subwoofer has 5 color coded RCA outputs for the 5 speakers, then 3 color coded 3.5mm jacks for connecting the front, rear and center channels to the PC. I tried to get this audio converter: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498591321&sr=1-1&keywords=panlong+5.1+audio+decoder
This converter has an optical output which I connected to my TV from one side then from the other side it has the 3 color coded 3.5 mm plugs, so I was able to connect the subwoofer to and it worked fine and the speaker sounded great but it's on the cheap end and it keeps breaking, and the channels were not distributed very well.
so I want to get a nicer one and mainly connected the speaker directly to the new reciever and then connect the subwoofer to the reciever as well, so my main question is how to connect the the subwoofer to the receiver, I couldn't find a cable that has tripple 3.5mm on one end and and RCA on the other end (assuming this is how a regualr subwoofer connects to a receiver).
Thanks

The projector has a 3.5mm output which you can connect any speakers you want, but it won't have surround, just stereo.

The z506 has 2 RCA inputs for stereo signal, so you just need a 3.5mm male to 2 RCA male cable to connect both.

The ideal would be an av receiver which connects every HDMI signal and process the audio correctly in surround sound. Of course it's like 300-400 bucks the cheapest ones with speakers and subwoofer. Still for that screen size its worth it. Something like the this pionner

Separate question from my other comment, as they are different projects and in no way related.

I recently came across a nice collection of old B&W speakers. https://imgur.com/a/qYgmf4f
I am not knowledgeable at all about the topic, but as far as I understand I need at least a 3.1 receiver to work with them. I was recommended Denon by a friend, but I would like some outside sources on this.

Let's compare the $200 Denon AVR-S540BT Receiver and the $400 Denon AVR-S650H

Looking at the specs, it seems the only difference is one is newer, and has an antenna in the back. Is it justified in having twice the price, for only 10W more per channel, and some other oddball features?

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

Sub $300 dollar range would be great. My current room is small, maybe 15-20 square feet, but I'm planning to move into an apartment soon, and I will have this set up in a (hopefully) larger living room. I'm generally sitting 12 feet back. Right now I'm looking at this receiver, but I can't seem to find if it supports LPCM 5.1 anywhere. Thanks for your help!

I emailed them about this. Here's the reply I got:


> It contains the same high-accuracy standard crystal as our NESDR Mini, 25PPM instead of 100PPM+ used in 'generic' RTL-SDRs.
>
> Kind Regards,
> Sarah
> NooElec Inc.
>
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 8:11 PM, NooElec Contact Form <admin@nooelec.com> wrote:
>
> Name: [removed]
> E-mail: [removed]
> Telephone: [removed]
>
> Comment: Hello,
> Does your new NESDR Mini 2 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2UOU72/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P2UOU72&linkCode=as2&tag=txtl02-20&linkId=WF4ONOBNSWPHGNUC) have the same crystal as that in a normal RTL-SDR with a normal R820T, or does it have an improved crystal? If it is improved, what are the specifications of the improved crystal?

Looking to buy a 43" 4K TV for my bedroom soon and want one that doubles as an occasional monitor when I want to step away from 1080 and see the visuals pop. Does anyone have any recommendations? I've been looking at this TCL tv for a little bit but am unsure that 1) it'll be good for gaming, and 2) if 43" is too small for 4K? Any recommendations are appreciated but I'm definitely looking for the value/budget TVs rather than the top of the line stuff.

I have the 60" version of this TV and love it. One criticism is that if you are sitting to the side the color can appear washed out, but sitting straight in front of the TV it looks great.

I linked the 40" version if that's the size you're after. It also has HDR.

Samsung UN40KU6300 40-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vtkhybXQ4PE1V

Since LEDs don't produce the crappy soap opera motion (or it might be toggle-able) this is probably perfect for you.

32 Inch 1080p LED LCD TV: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_720?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1371595201&sr=1-720&keywords=hdtv

If you go with this one, here's a little sidenote from the reviews.

"Picture out the box = AWFUL... After calbration = AMAZING

When I first took it out of the box and powered it on I was shocked at the picture. It looked awful UNTIL I read the other reviews about it being properly calibrated. So after tinkering around for what seemed hours I managed to get these setting based on Football and regular TV viewing:

Mode: Movie

Backlight: 18

Contrast: 80

Brightness: 40

Sharpness: 20

Color: 80

Tint: G/R 58/44

Under advanced setting;

Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Darker

Picture tone: Cool
Film Mode: Off

Sound Mode: Movie"

> Also, where are the headsets that come with straps? I couldnt find any on this Google Cardboard page here[https://www.google.com/get/cardboard/get-cardboard/]

That's because Google's official Cardboard specs require users to hold the viewers in place. This is because head-mounted viewers encourage users to turn too quickly, leading to nausea.

Of the official Cardboard viewers approved by Google, these look like the best:

• Mattel View-Master VR ($19.97 @ Amazon)
  
• I AM Cardboard DSCVR ($29.99 @ Amazon)
  
• Powis ViewR 2.0 ($29.99 @ Amazon)
  
  I have the Mattel View-Master VR and it works well with the Nexus 5, though I have to use a Bluetooth headset if I want stereo sound (since there isn't an opening for wired headphones).
  
  If you want a headstrap, you'll either have to modify one of the official viewers or buy an unofficial headset (just beware that many of the unapproved plastic viewers have narrow field-of-view).

I just picked up a nice Samsung 4k for $436 and per-ordered the ps4 pro. Pretty good deal on a 40 inch hdr 4k. I will mount it with the Freedom Arm HD and it will just float above my pc monitor.

Links:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40KU6300-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1473673355&sr=1-1&keywords=4k+hdr+tv

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FE2NVV4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Nice rig!! Go with a big TV!!!

Something like THIS You totally want HDCP 2.2 so make sure you're getting a TV that will support it.

Happy 4k gaming!!

Yes it really is. If you're looking for a very reasonably priced TV that supports 4k and HDR, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N29XPO3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one and I also have a much more expensive 4k, HDR TV. I can't say that the TCL looks exactly as good as the more expensive TV, but it does look pretty darn good.

I went with 4 of these speakers, wired in parallel, 2 for each channel. You could get by with smaller/less speakers depending on the space you are trying to fill with music.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LGYOU7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Went with this amp and power supply.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DLIYOYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And then this cable for the CCA to amp


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JTOLH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



and then some speaker wire to connect it all.



The speakers blend nicely into the ceiling and the sound fills the open area of my kitchen/living/dining room area. And that tiny amp can push those speakers louder than you would want to listen.


That is only a single zone for now. I wanted a multi-zone receiver, but even the cheapest ones are relatively expensive. These small chip amps are pretty cheap and you could get by with an old laptop charger for a power supply. This allows you to build a zone at a time as budget permits. My next zone will be the back patio to enjoy in the spring.

Why not use the optical out on the xbox one to a converter to convert to multiple 3.5mm jacks like this https://www.amazon.ca/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

​

Hdmi is video/audio, where as usb is for connecting devices. You can hope that xbox x will support the Ryg via USB connectivity later. But i'm pretty sure HDMI to USB is not a thing for decoding as plugging in the RYG to the converter would require that there were drivers on the converter to interface with.

​

​

Let's see what the market looks like:

• $599 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $700 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $400 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $600 - LG 55" 4K
  
  
• $575 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $650 - Samsung 55" 4K
  
  
• $600 - Sony 55" 4K
  
  
• ~$590 - AVERAGE
  
  But you're asking for $1300? Sorry man, I'm sure your TV is great, but the used market is really bad for TVs.
  
  
• Source
  
  To top it off, anyone could buy your same TV as brand new for the same price you are trying to sell it for! You might want to seriously consider shopping around before you buy another TV.
  
  
• Source
  
  Looks like you bought right before the price took a huge drop:
  
  
• Source
  
  Good luck selling your TV for anything over $600.

Oh! So even though it's fulfilled by Amazon, it's not Amazon's price. Got it. Thank you for the feedback. It looks like the Amazon Sold and Fulfilled one is actually still $22.11, though:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0092ZEINO/ref=olp_prime_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&shipPromoFilter=1

Me and my friend we play street fighter alpha 3,Tekken 3, Darkstalkers 3 and Marvel vs Capcom on the Ps1 emulator.

My friend uses this: http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO
And I use this: http://www.amazon.com/GameSir-Bluetooth-Wireless-Joystick-Controller-Windows/dp/B013QFQR9S
This is done on my Galaxy tab 4

I would, but I can't game on anything bigger. I tried before and had to downsize because it effected my gameplay so much. So that was the best to you found for that size range? How much better is it compared to the tv I have now? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have the original one of these, gray. I have an old nook color tablet running pandora hooked up to it with a couple of pioneer bookshelf speakers and an old sony active sub. Not very loud but pretty good quality. Here's an 40usd 50+50W one based on the tpa3116: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M

I am truly surprised that no one has mentioned the Nvidia Shield TV for this application. The device can be had for well under $200 and you can attach external drives to it.

It has plenty of oomph as a Plex Server for your described use case. This concept gives you:

• All the transcoding goodness you want without mucking with filetypes and formats
  
• Small footprint
  
• Low power consumption
  
• Can be run essentially headless
  
• Cost effective
  
  Hopefully /u/Cravenspurs is still reading this thread!
  
  edit: formatting

99.9% of soundbars are hot garbage and waaay overpriced. I suggest a 3.1 setup with one center channel, left and right speakers and a subwoofer. Pick a receiver of your choice, wich can support this setup.

If you really want a soundbar, check out theses soundbars that do not suck: https://www.klipsch.com/products/heritage-theater-bar, https://www.nubert.de/soundbars/567/ (german site)

All the linked products are only recommendations, there are tons of great passive speakers.

Hello Proxpi! Thank you for responding.

I have updated some images to show the potential location of the TV.

https://imgur.com/a/uFRWDYf

1: Yes I would like to have all devices (Surround Sound system & Xbox one) in the AV Closet.

I have attached some more pictures. You can see in the image where the TV mount is. The Cabinet (in the second picture) is just to the left of the TV. The speaker wires from the cabinet (You can see in the top right hand corner) run about 15 feet to two exposed wires behind the location where the picture was taken and two run to the two {top right and top left of the tv area).

For video... I think I did something foolish... I wanted to "Future Proof" my video, so instead of running HDMI thought the walls, I fished 4 Cat6 E wires and had to buy a $50 dollar converter.

For the AUDIO I currently have a SONY 5.1 surround sound system that was 300 bucks about 4 years ago. It has a build in DVD/BlueRay player. I was planning on wiring that up to the speaker outlets in the cabinet, but I don't think it can handle all 12 speakers... what do yo think?

I was thinking I may need to purchase something like this. What do you think?

My dad also gave me this pre amplifier Rotel RC 972.... do you think I can use it at all? I tried hooking it up but it was really quiet.

This would be my suggestion of what to buy for $3000. I'm sure most people on this sub would disagree with my more budget oriented picks. I'm just putting it out there.

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong.



Item | Price
---|---
VIZIO P-Series Quantum 65” | $1,500
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 | $505
Denon AVRS740H | $403
100ft Speaker Wire | $13
Surge Protector | $25
Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield TV | $180
HDMI Cables (2x) | $13
Total | $2,666
|
Optional |
Banana Clips | $20
VESA Mount | $35
Atmos Speakers (In Ceiling) | $75
Atmos Speakers (Stand Alone) | $240



For 4K and HDR it is very important that your HDMI cables are capable of 18Gbps. I have never had any signal issues with Monoprice cables, and the slim form factor of these cables is ideal for cable routing and management. Two cables is the bare minimum you need to get up and running. Obviously buy the appropriate length and amount that you need.

**For the Atmos speakers you only need one of the two options. In-ceiling speakers are objectively the superior quality and cheaper option. But they are not realistic for everyone's living situation. That is why I included the stand-alone speaker option. The speakers I picked would replace your two surround speakers and act as both surround and Atmos channels.

In the same boat as you OP. Amazon has a 40" one from TCL, a brand I'm unfamiliar with, for $270 that I'm thinking about purchasing. If you have a PS4 Pro and want to do 4k there is this 43" one for $350.

Anyone have opinions on TCL?

edit: After glancing around for like two minutes on this sub it seems like TCL certainly won't be as high quality as some of the more expense brand names, but they still produce a pretty solid product for the price.

I’m talking micro speakers n such smaller than average bookshelf speakers - like the Samsungs I had on Samsung BluRay. Don’t have a Full Sound even in mids/treble.......
And stuff like this :

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YHT-4930UBL-5-1-Channel-Theater-Bluetooth/dp/B071JY862G

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Home-Theater-System-HTP-074/dp/B01JOBIFP2

https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3910-Theater-Receiver-Speaker/dp/B07SW21ZC5

Have a cpl friends with that Yamaha system - One has replaced his speakers with Miccas = Big Improvement

I like that they provide such specific specs (although they don't link to that from the 'technical details' on their product page).

That Shield TV looks interesting, and on a quick google it looks like the bootloader is unlockable, so it might be a contender. Thanks.

If it has to be 60 inch the KS8000, baring any backlight bleeding issues, is definitely the best bet. If 55 would work, OLED is pretty incredible - 1800 atm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDF9S1G?tag=rtings-tv-bm01a-20&ie=UTF8

I have had several Roku devices over the years. I frequently sell older units as new models come available. I can state the older units (Roku 2s and older) need more frequent reboots (about twice or more a week). However, the top of the line Roku 3 ( http://amzn.com/B00BGGDVOO ) is much more stable and rarely needs a reboot. I also rarely get those freeze-ups on Netflix you describe (but yes, I do get them on older units).

Also, I think the newest model (the slims) PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360 make great streaming devices. But I still prefer the Roku 3 for the remote.

I am new to this as well. I just bought this pioneer receiver. It is one of the recommended receivers in the buying guide on the sidebar. I received it yesterday, set it up and it seems great as a starter. My only real "complaint" is that i can only use banana connectors for the L/R speakers when connecting on the back of the receiver. The other speakers are done via those flip clips (idk the name for them).

But for $180, I think its a great starting point and allowed me to divert more of my budget to quality speakers.

Batman Suit

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGGDVOO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HXTS6E4DV1VF&coliid=IWJ1PIPJSPET5

you need to buy this because I had a roku 1 for a long time and I loved it, and the 3 is much much better!


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DR7NMXA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2KB6ZYT0WQ3W3&coliid=I20UNXXX7RUBX4

I NEEEEEED this so I can kill zombies on my phone! PREASE?!?!

I mean the first TV is complete shit and the second TV is the most shit TV LG sells thats 4k and HDR.

It seems you want the biggest screen for least amount of money and dont really care about spec.

The Sony x900e is the set to buy if you arent going for oled.

65" is $1500

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR65X900E-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MZF81NS

If you just want to spend $1000 then youre better off buying it in a 55" size

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7

Why?

Best lighting system (full array) after oled technology, very good peak brightness for HDR (1billion colors v 18million, to see top end of these colors you need lots of brightness, and control over zones, the full array part, edge like you are looking at dont go as bright nor break screen down into controllable zones)

I feel like I recommend this one too much but I really like the one I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EG5HJ2/ref=s9_hps_bw_g21_i6

There aren't any magnets. When you press the button it pushes on the screen with a stylus tip lol.

You probably won't be able to do much for $250, unfortunately. If you want a 4k capable receiver that can support UHD Blu-rays in the future, you'll need one with HDCP 2.2 compliance, and this is the cheapest one I could find, and it's $250 by itself: Pioneer VSX-530-K As for speakers, most people would recommend spending at least $100 on your first pair of fronts. I personally was able to find an Energy RC-Micro 5.1 speaker set unused on eBay for $220, but that's not always possible. I'd say at least allow for spending $300-400 for a good stereo system before upgrading later.

I think I'm going to go with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10

Looks identical to the first one I linked, but is cheaper and Amazon Prime.

Thanks a ton for your help!

I got this sound system and works really well and it passes 4K HDR

Well I got it for $279 on Amazon now it's $400 but so far it's great one thing to point out is you need to change a setting on the receiver to make 4K HDR work properly

It needs to be set to 4:4:4 in the settings

Pioneer HTP-074 5.1 Channel Home Theater Package, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOBIFP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vIvBybM4TR0FQ

Depends if you want surround sound or not. For less than $400, you can get a good surround system.

https://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-HTP-074-Channel-Theater-Package/dp/B01JOBIFP2/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1484013969&sr=1-1&keywords=bundle+home+theater&refinements=p_36%3A-40000

If you want a good 2.0 system, this is also a good option.
https://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-standing-Speakers-VSX-530-K-Receiver/dp/B01MZZTZQU/ref=pd_sbs_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MZZTZQU&pd_rd_r=MSQHDYJVHVD9Z527S6DT&pd_rd_w=ZcKmA&pd_rd_wg=kAlQc&psc=1&refRID=MSQHDYJVHVD9Z527S6DT

• Roku stick $39.99 and right now you get two free months of Hulu ($7.99). Quad core processor and has a dorm and hotel mode for easy dorm set up.
  
  
• Or the Roku Premiere now on sale for $59.99, 4K video, 4 quad processor, same Hulu offer. Not sure about dorm mode.
  
  
• For truly budget option, Roku express. $24.99. Not great for live streaming services but should be fine for on demand type services. Same Hulu offer.
  
  
• Fire tv stick on sale for $34.99. The Amazon Fire TV box has been discontinued (new model coming) but you could check local stores for it.
  
  
• Chromecast. $35.
  
  
• Look for free or discounted device offers from a live streaming service. Typically Sling TV or Directv Now or YouTube TV are your candidates for this. I don't recall FuboTV ever doing so.
  
  
• Look for refurbished boxes. Roku and Amazon both have pages for refurbished deals.

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

This is what I got...but a Vilros package:
http://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Aviation-Set-Micro-Pre-loaded/dp/B01BX1QSFK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

With:

http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Mini-RTL2832-Antenna/dp/B00P2UOU72?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

That is the only thing i have plug in. Power sources i used, what came with the package and a 5v wall plug

hope this helps and thanks for your time, much appreciated

The Fire TV Stick is ~$39 usd and supports chrome cast and all of the popular streaming apps. The remote has Alexa voice too.

Very impressed. I rarely use my Apple TV now, which might not ever get the Amazon video or music apps.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174060660626

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=denon&qid=1574484822&sr=8-3

Get speaker wire and stands with the leftover $. If you ever decide to get a subwoofer, save up for a quality one. Don't buy something cheap just to get it in there. With your budget and your limited time for research, this is your best bang for your buck and all in stock ready to ship.

Again.
$40 amplified antenna

$40 Amazon FireTV Stick
Or
$90 FireTV

+

Kodi

+

Specto

The antenna will give you free local channels

FireTV can give you streaming channels + apps for streaming from channels if you have someone generous enough to provide their cable/satellite login. So we have live streaming of Fox Sports, ESPN, CNN and some more.

and Kodi for every TV Show/Movie. There's add-ons for live tv that's hit or miss but definitely improving

Right on the Vue page it lists what local channels are available. Same with Sling and it's not many

Edit: I don't get your point of trying to cut cords if you're still subscribing to every streaming service available? At that point wouldn't satellite be cheaper?

I'm using this Samsung tv that I got at target last year. We use the PS4 for all of our entertainment, gaming for me and steaming tv/bluray for her. We're happy with it, I just would have liked to get a bigger size.

Well I was planing on using Digital optical cable to hook up the tv. Is it possible to use and the ARC HDMI instead? that will pass the audio to my receiver even though I'm using different inputs?

This is pretty much what I had in mind of how it would be set up.

Also what would be the difference between the Yamaha receiver in your post and this Pioneer other than some missing features like the extra bass stuff?

Thanks for the recommendations, sorry for the late response, work has been keeping me busy.

4K with HDR10 without 3D leaves you to focus on pure picture quality.

The best of the best is LG's OLED range.

https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01CDF9S1G

Obviously it's pricey but currently LG lead the way with picture quality.

If this is too pricey LG have some good models such at this one for almost half the price which are generally highly rated: https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-55UH8500-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B01ARRCHSS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478590586&sr=1-2&keywords=lg+uh8500

I'm looking to get a receiver and 5.1 speaker set. This will primarily be for movies/netflix on chromecast and playing switch. Turns out my projector only does a stereo output, no surround sound. Never had one before though. I still need to pick out some speakers too. Don't really know what I'm doing.

I was going to buy this Yamaha receiver, which is billed as a high quality entry receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505393656&sr=1-5&keywords=receiver&refinements=p_36%3A10000-99999999

Then today I came across this Pioneer bundle that seems pretty popular, but it's cheap to the point that I worry about the quality:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JOBIFP2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

And then there's also this Yamaha bundle that's a little more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JY862G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thoughts on these, or something better in a similar price range? Thanks!

Or a DVB Tuner / RTL-SDR used to watch broadcast TV in Europe or view/record wireless signals everywhere else.

(Remote comes with one like this - but don't buy that one. Buy one like this or this for better shielding - and the first one won't cover up three USB ports on a /r/raspberrypi.)

See /r/rtlsdr

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/88e96z/monitor_sony_xbr55x900e_55_4k_uhd_smart_led_tv/

I live in CA, so I had to pay tax. Otherwise, it'd have been $740ish. Mine was "Used - Like New" and came factory sealed with everything still in the original packaging. It looks like there's a "Used- Very Good" one for $873.25 -20%.

I'm trying to understand your issue here - what exactly are you trying to do to make it sound better? It's only going to sound as good as what's playing it - so, if you're using the speakers on your TV, it's probably not great. You can do something like this:

Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1541375743&sr=1-3

Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Channel-Theater-Subwoofer/dp/B00EOZFUYI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541375795&sr=1-7

[Amazon Fire TV Stick] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=ods_dp_mamv_tkprstrp) -- A great gift for people who don't yet have a "smart TV." Our TV is almost 10 years old, and there's nothing wrong with it, so we don't want to waste money on a new television. For that reason, the Fire TV Stick is perfect for us!

You could get powered speakers that have both optical and bluetooth inputs - like these:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0719C132V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550988904&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+speakers

​

Your TV likely has optical out - even if it doesn't you can use analog out. If your computer can output via bluetooth, then both inputs would be digital. There's also powered speakers that accept a USB connection.

​

Problem with powered speakers is that it's hard to set up a sub. If you wanted to go with a sub as well, you could get this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK

​

And run the low frequencies to the sub and rest to the mains.

​

If you want to run a separate amp, I have heard that the TPA311X series class D amplifier chips sound good. See: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M

​

Then run speaker level output to your sub, and from your sub back to your mains. You could use an RCA switcher to control inputs to the amp. Like:

​

https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550989665&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box

​

(You won't need the video connections).

​

​

​

Denon AVR-S740H

SVS Prime 5.1

The towers are rated down to 30Hz, which isn't as good as a sub but way better than a soundbar/tv.

The other path to get a pair of bookshelves ($500) or satellites ($250) then a sub at $800 for 2.1. The plan here is to take the solid speakers that you'll use for your mains right away and move them to your surround channel later, giving you a bad-ass 5.1 system later.

This works a lot better when you're living alone...

Desktop? Ideally, you have some decent speakers -- that alone means you want it in a room away from where other people are trying to work, talk on the phone, or watch TV. Even if you have headphones, that just turns the problem around -- you'd probably like to play uninterrupted by people on the phone or watching TV.

Laptop? Those still seem to cost twice as much as a desktop with equivalent specs. I've given up on using that for gaming. But otherwise, you've got the same problem, the only difference is that you can move to a different room (if you're using headphones) -- but if there isn't a dedicated gaming room, you may find that all rooms are occupied.

Xbox? If that's plugged into the living room TV, the one everyone else uses to watch TV/Netflix/etc, you now have to take turns -- no one can watch a movie while you're playing a game, and vice versa. And this goes double if the living room is used for anything else.

Realistically, those aren't terrible compromises, and if you watch Netflix (despite what Netflix does), having an Xbox in the living room saves you... $100 or so. But it'd still be nice to have a gaming room that you can use for other things (like movies) than shared rooms that you can sometimes use for gaming.

If you're crafty enough you could assemble an ADS-B receiver out of a Raspberry Pi parts are available on Amazon.de and Amazon.co.uk (I looked on Amazon.nl but they don't stock them).

You could then build your own antenna such as a coax colinear which doesn't require any soldering, just a hobby knife and electrical tape (PVC pipe optional but recommended).

Edit: direct links for parts

Raspberry Pi
RTLSDR (the receiver)
MCC to F adapter (this ships from China, be prepared to wait a month)

Make everything from RG6 TV coax which you can get pretty much anywhere for pennies and don't worry about anything referring to "impedance matching" are my two suggestions.

If you only want 2 speakers, an entry level receiver would work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receiver-Audio-Component-AVRS540BT/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Bluetooth-Component-Receiver-RX-V385BL/dp/B07BNXXJKB

These are very simple bare bones models. Easy to use.

I think something with a separate receiver would work better. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0141JVEHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481314170&sr=1-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=receiver+5.1+hdcp+2.2&dpPl=1&dpID=415upHOJPNL&ref=plSrch
And Fluance speakers will be much better as well B014JTYKA8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AR1HPYKJGJ0NF31M19GB

Nvida shield. $179

PC's can have issues with surround sound through HDMI unless your motherboard/soundcard was made to be used in an HTPC kind of set up.

You can still stream content through Plex/Kodi for free through your home network in a more user friendly UI than a PC.

Pretty sure you can also stream games from your computer through the shield TV

I don't have one yet but as soon as I get some bills out of the way I'm rewarding myself with one. I was going to build a whole 3rd computer to use as an HTPC but forgot about all the annoying little stuff I had to deal with on my i3 4160 htpc build.

Do you know of any others that would be able to power the A3's properly? I've been searching google/amazon but haven't found anything.

Edit: Continued looking around, didn't find anything that looked promising. After reading more, I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and run the two cables where they need to go. I think I'm going to go with a this Denon receiver-

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-S540BT-Bluetooth-Compatible-Streaming/dp/B07C49F2LD/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543267116&sr=1-3&keywords=denon+s540bt

Looks like it provides 140w per channel which looks to be sufficient for the Polk RTiA3 speakers.

Where do you plan on using it, exactly? Samsung makes a nice 32 inch 1080p LED for under $400. It doesn't look great out of the box, but after some fiddling around with the settings it's beautiful. Here it is, by the way.

Yeah there are devices out there that claim to convert digital to the 3.5mm needed for those type of speaker systems... How well they work, i couldn't tell you. These devices fall into the "jerry-rigged systems" category which has a very high chance of not working so just be aware of that before going too far down the rabbit hole.

You'd be looking for something like this I just googled "optical to 3.5mm 5.1" and this is what came up.

Sony XBR55X900E 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUG21R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fA4EAb0Z60D9M

Go with that one and get it from amazon warehouse deals. Fantastic tv.

Recently I got an amplifier like this ($20 on AliExpress). Just look for "Breeze audio 50w amplifier"

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=50w+amplifier+breeze+audio&qid=1569576048&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You can get them for a bit cheaper off of eBay or AliExpress. My impression so far from a couple weeks of usage is that sounds great for the price- it drives my vintage Kenwood speakers really well. It requires a separate power supply, but if you have an old laptop charger that outputs at least 20v it'll work fine

My office uses this television for presentations:

https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1522707345&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+tv

cannot really speak to gaming but it works well and is pretty cheap

I have an iPod Touch 6th gen that I used for building and testing a VR app for a client. It is usable, but not ideal. (I'd say /u/amb9800 is a little harsh is saying "it's not worth trying".)

The HMD options are limited. Most will create gaps on the side, because they expect 5"+ phones. In my case I used it with a View Master VR headset with the iPod. (note: I have not tried the Deluxe edition). I've found it works the best, because it was originally designed with kids in mind.

If you just want to start out, using your iPhone, just grab the View Master VR. If you then end up wanting a better VR experience you can grab a refurbished phone, or upgrade your phone, and a higher end headset.

If you already have speakers including a powered subwoofer, then you can get this receiver which I purchased. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B981F38/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Its awesome, it has 4 HDMI in and 1 HDMI out so you can plug in all your consoles through HDMI. It does Linear PCM, Dolby True HD, Dolby DTS and a bunch of other audio formats. It even comes with a tiny speaker to do automatic calibration for your room.

With the right adapter that has IR support, yes. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/iView-3500STB-DTV-Converter-Box/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_t_2_0KJW

I wonder if it will support the HDHomeRun or USB tuners somehow, otherwise this might be your best option http://www.amazon.com/iview-3500STB-Digital-Converter-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369162356&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+tuner+hdmi

I've been doing some research as well. It seems like the favorite entry level is the Viewmaster by Mattel. If you want something more higher end, go for the Freefly VR

Mi Box and Shield TV both support HD Audio passthrough in Kodi or the Fire TV Stick 4K supports decoding of TrueHD or DTS-HD MA to 8-Channel PCM (no Atmos or DTS-X support though).

Hey guys,
So I am looking for a good 5.1 system for a dorm room. I know it sounds a little ridiculous, but I don't trust taking my Focals to college. Anyway I was looking around $300 for the setup and got stuck between three options: Pioneer, Logitech, and Vizio. I wanted to get your guy's opinion on what you think would have the best sound quality. I have a pioneer receiver now, and kind of hate it. But I think the Logitechs look so bad. Right now I am leaning to the pioneers but maybe one of you could shed some light on which might sound best. Thanks!

I got my kit for $85 from amazon (raspberry pi and antenna), and you could even get it cheaper if you wanted. Here's fr24's instructions, although you may need some more help like I did setting up the raspberry pi.

By receiver, I was referring to something such as this 5.1 receiver. (Note: I am not specifically advocating for this receiver; it was just one of the cheaper options.) The advantage to this device is that it will give you more options in the future to add devices, and you'll be able to pair it with higher quality speakers.

However, given your budget constraints, I don't really think this will be a good option for you, and you'll be better off with what the others have suggested.

I've been using this bluetooth controller for a while now to play emulated games on my phone. It's awesome!

you wont. It will actually be slightly higher for the holidays. At Best Buy, last years 55in b6 bottomed out at 1599 prior to black friday, and then went back up to 1799 and stayed there after black friday.


here's what amazons price history for the B6 is. notice the dip during november that was never matched again? it was for about 2 weeks before black friday.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B6P-55-Inch-Ultra/product/B01CDF9S1G

Thanks for looking I appreciate it I was looking too and found this one on amazon what do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071O4ETQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

• JBL Charge 3 (90 dólares)
  
• ASUS VG248QE 24" (170 dólares)
  
• AOC G2460PF 24” (180 dólares)
  
• Acer GN246HL 24" (192 dólares)
  
• GOPRO Hero 7 y Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) (199 dólares)
  
• Logitech G933 (90 dólares)
  
• Samsung 860 EVO 1TB (128 dólares)
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M2 (117 dólares)
  
• WD 4TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive (90 dólares)
  
• WD 8TB Elements Desktop (150 dólares)
  
• WD 10TB Elements Desktop (200 dólares)
  
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 (125 dólares)
  
• Xbox One S 1TB Console - Minecraft Creators Bundle (200 dólares)
  
• Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum (48 dólares)
  
• Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (35 dólares)
  
• Fire HD 10 Tablet (100 dólares)
  
• NVIDIA Shield TV | 4K HDR (140 dólares)
  
• Kindle Paperwhite (130 dólares)
  
• Xiaomi Mi Box - 4K (62 dólares)
  
• SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 (20 dólares)
  
  De nada...

Yes but this tv is also really good for input lag. And it's 4k

TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q2j4DbPVZRF54

The one you have does ATSC, which I s over-the-air (OTA) which just means the stuff that you need an antenna for. That's usually only a few channels, as you have found.


You need something that does QAM, which is the digital method. This one looks like it will: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFIJQ10/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Edit: I just double checked and the website for Mediasonic specifically states non of their boxes do QAM. Definitely your problem. Looks like there are a lot available that do... so you should be all set. Maybe check the XB1 setup before you order to see if it supports whatever tuner you order.

You could get a converter box and run the free basic cable through it and use composites to connect it to the TV. Antenna will plug directly into the TV using coax

Or you can leave the basic cable going into your TV using coax and purchase a Boxee for the antenna. This will allow you to record the programs as well

You're welcome. There are probably hundreds to choose from. My preference is something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527804963&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+receiver

https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSER6O/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527805053&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=elac+spaker

Umm well... the Roku 3 is pretty cool ;)

Thanks for the info!

Actually, for a receiver I'll be purchasing a Yamaha RX-V375BL. My recent edit above includes it in the diagram, in case you didn't catch that.

Since I'm still learning a lot about audio and video equipment/tech, I didn't know that a single HDMI cord between the receiver and TV will take care of it (since the receiver does have HDMI ports), so I suppose the optical connection is unnecessary (right?).

My roommate and I bought this Samsung TV last year for our dorm room (yes, we had two TV's) and it was great. I paid $232.00 for it. Check out Amazon's used TV's under their Warehouse Deals, as they are usually just repackaged and have nothing wrong with it. No matter what TV you get I would highly recommend keeping the box and packaging it comes with as it will make transporting it a breeze.

Black = Rear left and right.
Green = Front left and right.
Orange = Center and Subwoofer.

You need a cable like this

Connect to the green cable.

If you can return/exchange your audio converter, you might get something like this instead so that you can take advantage of your subwoofer and surround capabilities -- I don't know (nor have I used) the particular one in the link, it is just here as an example of the type.

I have a 2018 Tcl/Roku 43" and its working flawless & was out of box with a 4k stick/remote. Have you updated tv software? also you can update your remotes IR profiles. TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018)

I'm in the market for my first HT build. Would these go well with this yamaha receiver.

Also, what would you recommend for a center and Sub? Keep to the same brand or is mismatching ok?

Probably this 40" 4k Samsung for $489.

Check out the review from my favorite TV reviews site, Rtings. Trust it more than any other site.

I haven't tested Tinycore or 8bitdo's apps, so I can't comment there. All I can say is that Nvidia's default gamepad mapper hasn't made me want to go looking for some other solution, so I guess that's a good a testimonial for it as any.

I also wouldn't say it works with any controller. I've only tested this Nyko controller: https://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Playpad-Pro-Android-Bluetooth/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502630121&sr=8-2&keywords=Nyko+controller+Android It works just fine with Nvidia's controller mapper. So I suppose any controller with similar specs and functionality would also work.

Sounds like you are looking for something like this. I've never used this particular box, so please read the reviews so you understand any shortcomings before you buy, but based on your description, it sounds like you want to convert digital surround to analog, which is what this box does.

I have this amp, can be found for $25 on ebay if you're willing to wait, https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/

Has the TI TPA3116 chip, and is in a nice looking aluminum case. Needs a separate DC adaptor, but they're pretty common.

First, you can get him something called a powerbank. Powerbanks are small, portable, things used to charge your phone, tablet, mp3, etc on the go when there is no plugs around.

Here's one I found on Amazon

The Roku 3 is an awesome gift.

You're talking about this one then. You'll be okay with that. It's got a 1 year warranty which is great.

Why not just pay $10 more and get it brand new?

If you don't have to watch through the roku, there is this: http://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-Digital-Converter-Box-Recording/dp/B00BFIJQ10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394394127&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+converter

It will allow you to view directly on the tv. Simple, easy, cheap solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDF9S1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1504059558068

$1825 a C6

Still pretty good

You don't have to buy the last and bigger.

The Samsung KU6300 is pretty good for that price range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUTL4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XqkgybCVQTZNE

Edit: actually it's cheaper in terms of USD to Euros

because it still looks great on a 1080p tv? i don't have a 4K tv yet but i have my eye on this hopefully it's still on sale within the next two weeks.

As others have said, for $30... you'd just be wasting your money. The Dayton / Edifier recommendations really are your best bet and the absolute cheapest you'd want to go.... new.

If you can live with headphones for now, make a habit of checking used markets for bookshelf speakers! Decent speakers often pop up for ridiculous prices (I've snagged a pair of budget bookshelves for under $10 in the past, which retailed for around $140). Pair the best $20 bookshelf speakers you can find with a $30 class-D amplifier and an old laptop power supply (free), and you've got a decent system for $50 (or less, if you find really cheap speakers).

You have to use Bluetooth with the stick. Every input device I have tried has worked after installing the settings.apk

For a mini keyboard and mouse: the QQ-tech mini Bluetooth keyboard/touchpad works pretty well. Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/QQ-Tech®-Wireless-Bluetooth-Keyboard-Handheld/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1417633347&sr=1-1&keywords=qq-tech+mini+wireless+bluetooth+keyboard+handheld+with+touchpad

The Nyko Play pads for tablets (not FireTV version) have a mouse mode you can just use the on screen keyboard. Pro version and little nvida shield one work

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEINO

http://www.amazon.com/Playpad-Android-Bluetooth-PC-Mac-Linux/dp/B0092ZEIN4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1417633434&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=nyko+playpad

I also had success with an HP Bluetooth keyboard. Audio devices will pair but don't output sound.
If settings crashes reboot.

Edit added product links

Well my advice would be to try and sell it and get something better. But, if you don't want to do that, and you have an optical or digital output, [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y) should create the right inputs for you.

I just ordered these items to build a surround sound system for my living room.

Klipsch - Quintet V 5.0 - On Sale at Newegg for 249.99, Regularly 599.99

Polk 10" Powered Subwoofer On sale at Amazon for $77, regularly $239

Pioneer VSX-530-K 5.1 Receiver On sale at Amazon for 189.99 regularly 279.99.

100 ft 16 gauge speaker wire $10.99 at Amazon

All in all, I bought $1130 worth of audio equipment for $527 dollars.

Instead of the R820T, I suggest the R820T2 which has improved sensitivity and noise characteristics.

For DXing (long distance), you can get a shortwave receiver with SSB for under $100 (example). If you want to transmit back to those stations you would require a HF transceiver and a ham license (in the US, General-class is recommended). You can get a 1980s-vintage model used for $250-350. Or a new one like the FT-450 for $650-700. Also required for a transceiver would be a power supply or 12V battery, an antenna, and possibly an antenna tuner.

NooElec NESDR Mini 2 SDR & DVB-T USB Stick (RTL2832 + R820T2) with Antenna and Remote Control

Ninja edit: they're not specific to airband, but coupled with the RTL-SDR software I linked to in another reply and an adequately-tuned rooftop antenna (I use the Telewave ANT125F2, but you can get good results for much cheaper or even DYI) you'll be monitoring the airband in no time. You can also improve the signal-to-noise ratio with a filter such as this one. You'll also need to install Icecast 2 to stream from the RTL-SDR software.

Here's another candidate - the RasHAWK. A RaspberryPi + Arduino DFing system. This could probably be built for about $250. If you were poor and desperate you could make a workable version for $180 or so.

It utilizes an RTL-SDR as its receiver, which is a $20 USB dongle you can get on Amazon (I have one, they're pretty nifty. A great place to start if you want to get into SDR.)

Back on sale for $140 today:

Amazon (free Echo Dot): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/

Best Buy (free Echo Dot): https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-hdr-streaming-media-player-with-google-assistant-black/6100500.p

BH: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1362644-REG/nvidia_945_12897_2500_100_shield_tv_darcy_remote.html

Personally I have a Pioneer (older version of this) and I love it. It's in your price range too, but it doesn't do Zone 2 or anything like that.

Communications enthusiast here, browsing the sub. I know of people who have picked up almost every "world leader"'s aircraft, Air Force One and various other "big shots" included. If you're radiating ADS-B, anybody with a $20 "software defined radio" stick from Amazon and a free piece of software can locate you.

A good receiver will automatically switch the input for you when it detects a signal. All Home Theater A/V receivers have remotes and optical inputs. Here is a good entry level pioneer that would do everything you are saying that you need. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-VSX-530-K-Receiver-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B0141JVEHS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504205680&sr=1-4&keywords=receiver

1080p upscaling has improved quite a bit from the early days. You're hard-pressed to find a 4K TV that doesn't do it well.

1080p displays, at least as far as TVs go, aren't a very great market to stay in. Less and less are being developed, especially good ones, and 4K televisions can be found for a great price.

If you'd like a couple recommendations:

TCL S425 43" - $249 (RTings review) (50" is $50 more, 55" is $100 more)

Its input lag is respectable. Not the fanciest TV, but it would fit your needs well while not mutilating your wallet.

---
Vizio P-Series 55" - $699 (RTings review)

When compared to the aforementioned TCL, the input lag isn't better, but you do get a lot more features packed into this TV than you would the TCL.

Wow. I just ordered the Mattel one. I had no idea this existed until your comment. Thanks!

Edit: links.

https://www.google.com/get/cardboard/get-cardboard/

http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2

You might be able to fix this for even cheaper than my other solution. You just need a receiver with outputs. This one might work and is cheaper than the other:
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1403-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B0081N916M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419658835&sr=8-2&keywords=home+theater+preamp

This one might work too for even cheaper, also with room to grow:
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V375-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00B981F38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419658942&sr=8-1&keywords=receiver

You could go even cheaper if you buy one for stereo, but you said you eventually wanted to upgrade to surround sound. Both of these options will give you room to grow into surround and you can keep using the AV-30s. I would pick a Yamaha Aventage receiver. I've liked them enough that I'm going to buy the Aventage preamp for my home theater.

You could probably pick up a used receiver for around $100. For a new receiver, I'd recommend the Yamaha RX-V375. I just picked one up for under $200, and it looks like you can get them refurb'd from Amazon for even less - basically everything you need without all the bells and whistles (Airplay, etc).

Do you have any other connections on the TV? If not, you'd need something like this (you may be able to find something cheaper, but this is what I found after a quick search).

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y

You'll connect this to the optical out (the squarish connection at the top) with a TOSLINK cable, then the 3.5mm jacks on your creative speakers.