Reddit mentions: The best ac adapters

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u/The_8_Bit_Zombie · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

I've had it for less than a month, but so far I'm really liking it for the most part. Here are some pros and cons I thought of about this scope to help you out:


  • It's great for visual observing! With it I've seen the Great Red Spot on Jupiter, moon shadows on Jupiter, the Cassini Division in Saturn, detail in Saturn's atmosphere, detail on Mars's surface, and so much detail on the moon that it almost looks like I could touch it. Deep sky objects also look great through the scope. (I live in a heavily light polluted area and I can still see some amazing things, such as certain nebulas and star clusters.)

  • It's great for planetary photography. (Don't really need to explain this one, as there's an example image in this thread.)

  • If you get it aligned well, the goto function works great! I've had lots of fun using it because it's a great way to discover new objects you haven't heard of before.

  • Because it's a Schmidt-Cassagrian it has a lot less coma than other types of telescopes, which is helpful for both visual observing and photography. (Though you can buy a coma corrector if you get a different type of telescope.)


  • Haven't tested this myself yet as I haven't needed to, but the majority of reviews for the 8SE says it sucks down the battery power in less than 30 minutes when it's on. To fix this issue, I bought a power cord, but if you want to take it out somewhere, you'll probably need to buy a power tank. (Or something like it.)

  • This is not an issue where I live so I can't say any of this with experience, but since it's a Scmidth-Cassigrian telescope and has closed optics, dew can form on the corrector plate depending on the weather. (Here's a page about it with more information.) Uf you don't want to buy anything extra to fix this issue I've heard that leaving the 8SE out for about an hour before you use it will get rid of most of the dew.

  • I've had a decent amount of issues with the tracking being finicky, but it very well could be fixable. (Objects tend to go out of frame over time, even when aligned. This happens most often when I tell it to go somewhere, or when I recently moved it with the arrow buttons. I do find that if I leave the telescope alone for a few minutes to let it "catch up" to its new position in the sky it can keep the object pretty solidly in the frame though.)

  • Because of its mount type (Alt-Az) and its somewhat finicky tracking, this telescope is not good for DSO photography. Keep in mind it is definitely possible to get great images of DSOs with it, but it's a lot harder and if photographing them is your main goal then I wouldn't recommend the 8SE. (Here's a thread I found, in which some of the posts go into more detail about the issues I was talking about.) I bought the 8SE mainly for planetary photography, so this isn't an issue for me.

  • With a star diagonal in, the telescope can't point above 70-80 degrees or so, which can be a pain depending on what you're looking at. You can fix this by moving the tube up on the fork arm more. I have heard that makes the tracking less stable because it's slightly off balanced, so I don't keep it that way, but it is an option.

    Hope this helped! And my apologies if you knew a lot of this already.
u/cows2computers · 1 pointr/smoking

Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL


Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.

Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.

Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.



Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.

This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.

K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M

I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.

Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.  

Wiring: Image from

The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.

I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future.

I had to flip my probe wiring.

You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.

My final wiring (not in the case):

Controller Settings:

The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.


Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.

Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.

IP -> SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.

PID -> CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.

UNITS TO F if think in those terms.

In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.

You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.

I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.

u/SuperScathe · 6 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).


  1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
  2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
  3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
  4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
  5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
  6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
  7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
  8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
  9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.


  10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
  11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
  12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
  13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
  14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
  15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:

    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.

    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!

    Here's a video of my modded cab:
u/CarryOnRTW · 3 pointsr/backpacking

First of all, good decision, even alone you'll probably have a great time, meet lots of people and likely become hooked on travel. :-) Here's some things I'd look for in a travel pack:

  • A ~40L bag is a good size that will force you to think about every item and not bring the kitchen sink. You'll also appreciate the size/weight when having to walk with it. Later in life when you might want to fly, it will also pass as a carry on bag which simplifies things incredibly and avoids the dreaded lost luggage scenario.

  • Some travel packs are definitely expensive. My advice on this is that most good packs come with excellent, even lifetime, warranties and will last you for many, many years and trips. So if you can, I'd try and save up a little more to avoid getting a cheap one that won't last. We might not be talking about a huge amount of money difference here either. I imagine a night out at the bar or a few packs of cigarretes/tobacco could be the difference between a lousy pack and a good one.

  • Get one with a load bearing hip belt and good shoulder straps. Night and day difference when walking.

  • Get one that can open the main compartment like a suitcase. Way easier to deal with.

  • Get a pack rain cover. Many packs have them built in but don't worry if it doesn't as you can buy them separately and they take up minimal space/weight.

  • I absolutely recommend only buying one that you have tried on stuffed with weight bags. Sizing is very important for the hip belt and shoulder straps to work correctly and you'll be able to see what you are getting.

  • Also purchase a light day pack (15-20L) that can be packed inside your main bag. You'll use this once you are settled in your accommodation and ready to explore.

  • I'm sure there are some great brands in Europe that aren't available in North America, so don't worry if you can't find the ones most people on here (North Americans) recommend.

    Some other tips:

  • Get a dry bag to store stuff that cannot get wet.

  • Light packing cubes really do help organize and roll your clothes.

  • Cheap household garbage bag. If you know its gonna be pouring I put my packing cubes inside this even with my rain cover.

  • An ultralight packtowel is a great item to have.

  • For our electronics, things like this and this have been great.

    Finally, 10 days travelling in a month means your trip will absolutely fly by. You might end up wishing you'd taken longer, which isn't always possible, and you won't be able to stay long in places you love. Mentally prepare yourself for this.

    Have a great trip!
u/Just4L0lz · 2 pointsr/onebag

I would second the hard drive situation. I would instead maybe subscribe to a Flickr account or something while I am traveling, and upload photos from my ipad/laptop whenever i get internet. I would maybe keep 1 portable ssd (like the Samsung T5 500gb) as its really lightweight, and wouldnt get damaged from being thrown around. Use that for backing up things when I dont have internet.

Are you planning on taking a laptop? If so which one?Because you can actually get multi-port chargers with USB C Power delivery so you can carry one brick for charging. Alternatively, I have seen Anker with USB chargers with built in batteries

I would say take your gopro with you. Especially if you like anything sporty, kayaking, gokarts, zip lining etc. I have had friends who took their gopro and left their dslrs when they go away.

I agree about the multiple lenses, think about taking a multi zoom (the 18-55 F2.8-F4 will be awesome for this) and maybe a fixed prime (I like the 23mm F2 - the 35mm equivalent focal length is really amazing). If you want to travel light, I would skip the telephoto. Also, dont forget the extra batteries.

If you havent gotten the XT1 yet, consider getting the Olympus EM5ii second hand with the 14-150mm or the newer 12-200mm lens. You will not need anything else, in rains, storms, snow, deserts or anywhere.

I would say pack a GOOD rain jacket. You are traveling to SE Asian counties, rain is going to be very common. You want to make sure you have a good rain jacket. I would say if you can get a back that includes a rain cover, its a good idea. There is nothing as bad as getting somewhere and finding everything in your bag is drenched. On a trip to europe, I was hauling my bags in the rain from a train station to the hostel and my things in the bag did get a little wet.

Did you consider the Peak Design travel pack? Or the Topo designs travel bag? They are also good alternatives if you were still undecided on the travel pack.

Instead of the sweater, get an Icebreaker base layer (something like the 260 is good). You can wear this inside your tshirt and it keeps you warm AF. I am wearing the Icebreaker 200 bottoms as I type. Some of the best in the world.

u/Efriim · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I haven't used any handheld pi. I guess there are some good alternatives though.



NDS with charger. $25 - $40 (I would get the DSi) (DSlite bumpers and things tend to wearout)

A flash cart for NDS. $15 - $20 (DSTT I hear is best) (Acekard2i is great) (R4 is hard to tell the model) (DSTWO flashcart drains battery life, is overpriced, but has built in cpu and emulators for gba snes and genesis) All are compatible with 3ds, NDS, DSi.

MicroSD. $10. Samsung EVO 32gb on amazon is a good deal

The DS has a lot of great games, snes and genesis emulators work okay but not the best. GBA emulation only works with dstwo or ez-flash.

Total $50 - $70.



PSVITA w/ charger $110 - $150. Never used one, cfw is available for firmware up to 3.68. The firmware 3.69 is not hackable.

Vita Memory Card + microsd $20. Since the proprietary memory card are so expensive.

PSVITA & TV are cfw compatible up to 3.67 - 3.68, however there may be some homebrew incompatibility on these firmwares. 3.69 is not compatible yet. CFW can load PSP homebrew as well as play PS1.

Total $130 - $170



Wii U complete console $140. Used - Very good

SD card. $15 Sandisk 64gb Extreme SDXC

DS Virtual Console Game $10 From E-shop, needed to play DS on Console/Gamepad screens.

Emulates Nintendo up to DS, has an abandoned PSX emulator from the wii. Portable and Console for TV.

Total $165


The consoles and handhelds fluctuate in price. PSvita TV was low as $40 at one time, they are a bit inflated right now but collectors items will hold value. Finding one second hand or used for half-price is probable a used PSP is easy to find for $40 but not online.



RPI $25 - $40 RPI3b+ is what I have connected to my TV. The RPI2 is similar to RPI0 and emulates PSX but not all, as per the RPI3B+. There are many SBCs, I think the OdroidC2 and Tinkerboard and NanoPI M4 are all interesting but I have not used them.

Case + Heatsink and fan $25 - $30 There are other cases Argon One, SuperPI Retroflag, many others, some bundles heatsink and fan are necessary for the rpi3b+. The retroflag controllers are not preferred.

Power Supply $15 or official raspberry pi power supply.

MicroSD $10

Controllers $15 - $35 There are a lot of options here, recycle your PS3 or XBOX360 controller, Buy a corded Ibuffalo Snes, 8bitdo SF30, logitech, retro-bit/retrolink n64. I think only the RPI3B+ and RPI Zero W have bluetooth, else an adapter is needed.

Total $75 - $130




$50 (zero W + microsd + psu) + all the parts for building a gameboy zero

battery ~15

powerblock ~20

usb teensy ~15

controllermodule ~10

lcd and shield ~30

case ~20?

main buttons ~10?

audio amp and speaker ~10?

extra buttons and switches, wheels ~15?

Total ~$195

u/WrenchHeadFox · 7 pointsr/DIY

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

u/zedoary · 2 pointsr/piano

if those are the only connections, you don't appear to have any MIDI output. that might be an issue, but i'm not familiar with the software you want to use.

if you'd care to post the make and model of your keyboard, i can try to look up the manual to figure out exactly what power supply you need. if you don't want to do that, then here's what you could try instead:

from the picture, you definitely need a DC power supply with a center positive barrel connector. does it say "DC 9.5V" on there? if so, i (personally) would try a 9V power supply with it. that's 99% sure to be safe, and 98% likely to work.

find something like for your country, and set it to 9V, make sure to read any instructions so that it is definitely center positive when you plug it in, and then give it a go. if it doesn't seem to work within the first 30-60 seconds, don't leave it plugged in.

u/8Bits1132 · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

The CanaKit ones are usually good as a starting point (unless you don't want to buy the components individually, though as another person said, the power supplies that ship with them aren't the greatest.

If you DO want to buy the components individually, however, you only need to get the board itself, an optional case, and the power supply. Here's what I've seen most people use.

  • Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (around $35 USD. It's the most powerful iteration of the Raspberry Pi. It might fit your needs, as it can play PS1 games pretty well.
  • Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply (5V/2.5A)

    You could also invest in heatsinks or fans if you want to keep the Pi a bit cooler in temperature. Or, you could also buy a Flirc case, which is around $15 USD, which acts as a giant heatsink. It's one of the more popular cases around here, and for good reason. It's very reasonably priced in my opinion, and it does a good job at keeping the Pi nice and cool, so you don't need a fan.

    Speaking of cases, if you want that retro console look, there are some pretty good options, with one of the most well known case makers being Retroflag. They don't come with any form of cooling like heatsinks and fans, so you'll have to provide those separately.

    If you are asking about controllers, you can use both wired USB or wireless Bluetooth controllers as well (though you'll need to have at least a USB controller or a keyboard connected to the Pi for the first part of setting it up which will ask you to configure your controls which work across the RetroPie environment (that includes EmulationStation which is used to launch your games, and RetroArch which powers most of the emulators included with the default RetroPie install).

    You can read the RetroPie documentation for more information on RetroPie itself too.
u/Absentee23 · 0 pointsr/microgrowery

Definitely stick with PC fans. I'd go with 120mm because the larger fan moves more air while moving slower, so it can stay quieter but still cool your box.

I bought this pack of 4 on amazon, they're almost silent, but you will need 2 or more to cool the cfls. I use 2 of these in my veg cabinet, with some duct on the back of them to lightproof it, to cool 3-4 cfls at the moment, but I don't have to worry about smell from the veg cabinet.

You need to figure out what you are going to do if smell will be a problem. If you need zero smell, then you need to think about a DIY carbon filter and how you will move air through it (more powerful fans would be needed).

For a no-wiring-splicing-needed solution, you can get molex (one type of connector pc fans use) power adapters like this one, and use splitters and adapters, etc to power however many fans you need, or even buy a pc fan speed controller like this one and plug it right in.

note: pc fans have two different kinds of connectors typically, larger molex 4 pins (like I mentioned earlier) and some have smaller 3 pin connector. The ac adapter I linked has a 4 pin molex, and so does that fan controller for power in, but it has the 3 pin for power out to each fan that it controls, and the fans I linked also have small 3 pin connectors. Just something to keep an eye out for if you decide to get more powerful fans than I linked, for example.

To wire mine up, I grabbed a 12v AC-DC adapter (a wall-wart, like a plug for an old router, it says the voltage on the label) and cut the plug on the end off, and cut the connectors on the fans off, then it's one wire to red, one wire to black, if it doesn't work switch them. Some adapters have a white stripe on one of the two wires, that one goes to red. (although I think for most fans it would spin them backwards, arrows on the edges of the fan usually point direction of airflow). Heatshrink it all together (or just electrical tape it really securely) and plug it in.

u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To power the setup you will want an AC to DC converter of some sort. You could use a spare computer power supply but something more compact will work just as well. You will want a fan controller to handle the fan and pump speed, running them direct on 12V will keep them full speed and loud.

To keep things compact you may want to buy or fabricate a box to hold the radiators. Hang them on the sides with the fans drawing air through the top and blowing through the rads. The pump and reservoir could either go inside or attach to one of the two unused sides. - Pre-made and awesome but fairly expensive.

Make sure you get quick disconnect fittings and place them on the lines just outside your case for easy separation.

Get proper fans for your radiators. EK Vardar F4-120ER are about the best that money can buy.

Don't be sloppy with the wiring. Use pre-made connections, or use solder and heat shrink tubing.

u/LNMagic · 1 pointr/buildapc

Noctua fans will give you the best airflow-to-noise ratio, and most of them also have among the best static pressure (pressure that doesn't fluctuate because the fan blades are more closely packed together). Airflow is more important for case fans, and static pressure is more important for radiators.

They aren't cheap - around $25 each - but are excellent quality.

Another route you could go (which is certainly unpopular around this reddit) is to get a motherboard with a low-power, integrated CPU. There are plenty of options which include passive cooling. You said you only need basic office applications, so there's really very little need for much processing power.

Two more recommendations from me if you go this route: picoPSU combined with a DC power brick will reduce power consumption because a PSU has its own fixed overhead.

An SSD will also help you save a bit on energy, but will especially make the computer feel snappier as your programs load almost instantly. I recommend a Samsung 830 or 840 Pro (not 840 non-Pro). You can also do well with a Crucial m4 or an Intel 520.

If you use these parts, you can get your idle power consumption down to a mere 20W, which means you could leave it on all year long and pay only $20!

u/morpen · 103 pointsr/OutOfTheLoop

Hey so I hate to shit in on everyone else's opinions, but they're not really recommending the best gear for your dollar. /r/audiophile has a sticky on this exact subject. Basically the lowest end system they are willing to recommend is a pair of Micca MB42s . If you can spring for the 42x's, they are more than worth the 10 extra dollars. You will need an amplifier to drive them. /r/audiophile reccomends the Muse m50, but I can tell you from personal experience, a lepai 2020a+ with a slightly beefier power supply will run them just fine for half the price. These are pretty chunky speakers, but they'll blow any "pc/gaming" speakers out of the water. If you decide you'd like to go for this, I have about 30 feet of speaker wire lying around that I'd be happy to mail to you to save you the 8 bucks or so. Hope this helps, and happy listening!

u/INGESTIGATOR · 6 pointsr/guitarpedals

Also, I should note: I chose the quietest 4 power supplies that I had on hand. I also have a lab-grade power supply @ 12V, but the scoping also looked similar so I didn't feel like including it to save space on the final image. The Nintendo Wii adapter was chosen because I felt like it was one that people could relate to, and also it was made for a mass-market device by a high quality Japanese company. The Planet waves adapter, which you can pick up on Amazon for like $9, is actually quite good, and a great deal IMO. 200mV [+/- 50] Vpp is actually very quiet (tame..), compared to any other switching power supplies. If I upload a pic using a China-eBay-generic adapter, it will NOT look pretty. Expect like 500mV [+/- 250mV] Vpp....w/ a Fourier transform showing massive peaks at 60Hz and 120Hz.

TL;DR: "BZZzzzzzz......."

u/Torisen · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Your link isn't going to an idem for me, but the mention of the excessively bright lights make me think it's the same as THIS ONE that I got from Amazon. It works very well to pull video from Chromecast, FireTV stick, PS3, and Xbox to my projector and Strip the audio out through the Toslink optical to my Sonos soundbar.

Works great but holy damn those little LEDs are bright, like make shadow puppets at the end of the hallway with them bright. Easy to cover up though.

u/TheSonicRetard · 3 pointsr/oculus

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound -

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai -

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter -

u/CaptainCaaavemaaan · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

  • LED Strip - $7
  • Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  • Motion detector - $10
  • Power plug - $8

    And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:

  • Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  • Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  • Power splitter - $6.50

    I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.

    and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.
u/Siegfried262 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For 250 my recommendation would be a pair of Philharmonic Affordable Accuracy Monitors paired with a suitable amplifier. They're easily the best speakers I've used. Great imaging, very clear and detailed, and amazing bass for a 2.0 setup.

I got along with a basic Lepai amplifier with an upgraded power supply which did better than I expected to. Otherwise you could probably get away with an SMSL-SA36 if you're not blasting them.

For the money though, I bet you could find a used receiver for a great deal off your local craigslist.

I currently run them with an SMSL SA-160 which does an amazing job of driving them but would push you out of your budget.

Alternatively, I've also used the Micca MB42Xs paired with the same Lepai as above and it's a fantastic budget-oriented setup which doesn't take up too much space.

u/ExternalUserError · 1 pointr/digitalnomad

There are brand names making them. Go into any Samsonite store, they'll have branded adapters. Go into Best Buy and there's probably an Insignia one. Go into Tumi and there's probably really expensive Tumi ones. But in terms of adapters (not converters), they're all the same thing. You're paying $40 for a Tumi adapter that probably came out of the same factory as every other adapter. And, they aren't even that compact.

They're metal and plastic that makes one shape into another. There's not much to them, so paying extra for a brand probably doesn't make sense. The exception might be if you want something with a fuse and a ground, you can go with these, but for most travelers, just a universal one works.

The best one I've found is the Kikkerland. It's just a few pieces of metal connecting your plug to the outlet, arranged in a clever way that always fits. It's probably not a brand you've heard of, but that adapter is quite well-respected by a lot of DM's and considered a great choice. Even then, it sort of gets looser and looser over time and it does feel flatly cheap. I mean it's $10.

u/orangelantern · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

A car adapter? Mine came with one. As for the power supply id recommend this

Here is what i bought to track with it.
PC interface Cable
Serial Adapter
And finally this, but this is optional to you. Youll probably eventually want to image from your backyard, and if you do youll want this. AC Adapter

Another thing, Unluckily for me and for you, the mount does not come with a polar scope. Do some research to what kind you want, but I got this one

Other than that, Good luck! If you ever want some real time advice come check out the chat room under the useful links tab on the side of the subreddit! Chances are I'll be there, or one of the AP gurus.

u/tbx5959 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh, i got the mb42, great speakers, saw they are now 60 bucks, but were 50 bucks a few months ago, so either they've gone up or typical amazon price fluctuating. Not sure it's worth getting the x version, the regular ones sound great at that size and price point - they have a crossover but not sure it's going to make huge difference in that package.

I got this amp:

I needed a power supply for an external drive and that one worked so I stepped up to this for the amp to squeeze out most of the watts in the amp:

When I got it they were: 50 speakers, 20 amp, 6.50 power supply and it makes a very nice budget system - loud enough for a normal sized room and good quality.

u/Physics_Dude · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

There are really only four things you have to watch for when choosing a power adapter: connector size, voltage, current, and polarity.
Input voltage is what the device in question needs to function; your headphone transmitter for example. Output voltage refers to a device, often a power supply, that delivers or sends out a certain amount of power; the thing you don't have for example.

For polarity, the same rule will almost always apply in the same way for all electronics. Yours is no exception since the pictured symbol indicates that the center pin is positive (+) and outer case is negative (-).

For voltage, 4.5v power adapters are fairly uncommon in my experience. Since your device is battery powered, it will almost certainly be able to accept an extra 0.5v on its input. 5v power adapters are also a lot cheaper and more readily available. You might even already own one.

For current, all you ever have to check is if your power adapter has an equal or greater current capacity (mA, A, milliamps, or Amps) then what the device requires. since your device is a simple headphone/audio transmitter, I'm going to guess it dosn't require much current. Maybe 500mA at the most. With that being said, 5v 2000mA power adapters are still as cheap or cheaper then most of the lesser powerful ones.

I'm going to take a wild guess and say that the jack pictured is a 2.1mm (pin) by 5.5mm (outer sleeve). This is among the most common sizes and seems to scale to your picture nicely.

In conclusion, here is what I would get:
5V DC Wall Power Adapter ($7.29 + Free Shipping)
If on a budget, this should do just as well (though might take couple weeks to ship):
Generic USB Barrel Jack Cable ($1.71 + Free Shipping)

u/FatalHydra · 1 pointr/PS4

Sure, typed a long explanation along with pictures at the end.

I powered the hard drive using its own separate power source through a AC molex power adapter. The PS4 when turned off actually powers off the HDD which is great even tho it isn't on the same power source.

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter

Since HDDs use SATA as their power port, I got a cable adapter to hook it up to the power. SATAPOWADAPR 6-Inch 4 Pin Molex to Right Angle SATA Power Cable Adapter

I needed to find a 15 pin female connector without the sata part for the data part of the HDD (since the PS4 hooks the HDD with a 22 pin connector. Decided to get a splitter type cable and just shove the sata cable inside the space that the 2.5" HDD goes. Fit perfectly in.

SATA 22 Pin Male to SATA 7 Pin and 15 Pin Female

Lastly, I needed a very good yet relatively cheap HDD. Decided to go with this one because of its high cache which acts like a SSD in the sense that the cache is flash memory aka SSD speeds. 4 TB meant I'll never have to upgrade ever again (I install everything without worrying about space, even games I don't play, and still have ~2.4 TB left. That's a lot!). Enterprise drive gave it high read/write speeds which I was happy about.

Seagate 4TB Enterprise Capacity HDD 7200RPM SATA 6Gbps 128 MB Cache Internal Bare Drive (ST4000NM0033)

I've bought these back in August of 2015. I have had no major problems by running my PS4 this way however there's two things that I find as cons. The splitter for the 22 pin cable is fairly short in length so the HDD can only sit so far. I haven't looked into a extension type cable as I don't mind it for my setup but I think it's good to mention that.

The other con is that IF your console freezes, crashes, etc. and you need to either unplug the console or shutdown through button, you may need to reset your connections. By that I mean, turn off PS4, then unplug power and data cable, wait 2 seconds, plug back in power and data cable to HDD, and reconnect the PS4 and boot it. It will either start up right away or you have to wait roughly 3 minutes for it to do the "Checking system" because you did a hard shut down. It's happened to me enough times that I know no data will be corrupted by this and you shouldn't worry. I leave my HDD out in the open but you can enclose it if you'd like so long as you give it breathing room and don't block any holes on it.

Phew... What a long reply through my phone 🙂. And... pictures:

u/JarJarBanksy · 3 pointsr/buildapc

First I think it's a waste of an NES, but only if you are destroying the electronics (assuming they are not already dead). I hope you'll keep the electronics or give them away to someone so that the actual system won't be dead. Maybe your next project could be building a custom NES.

Anyways, I think I know some parts that might help you.

First, A slim 7750

For something like this you should also want a pci-e riser cable/ribbon/kajigger.

Here's another thing you'll definitely want/need for a build of this size. The largest pico psu I can find and an appropriate power brick/adapter to go with it.

However, if you are going to use this for old NES games and such, you won't need the graphics card. The onboard graphics will be more than enough.

There is a significant issue though The pico psu is meant only to run at 160 watts, 200 peak. I pretty sure that is going to estimate power usage to be at max, but the issue is that at max, this system draws 163 watts. Now, I don't know if this would be sustained for long periods of time if you ran the system under full load, but I feel like it would be an issue.

When I say this system, I am referring to this. The psu is not on pcpart picker so it isn't on that, but you can imagine it being there.

u/GalacticArachnids · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

the MB42x - Lepai 2020A+ combo is a good cheap solution. I recommend that you upgrade the power supply on the Lepai though.

This one works great. I use it on my 2020+ and the sound is definitely improved in the low end.

Also, the 2020+ has and RCA input which should work with most TVs. This would give you considerably better sound than any "in box" 2.1 setups.

In terms of a subwoofer, the Miccas already go pretty low so you might not need a sub at first depending on preference. Also, avoid the aux input on the Lepai... it's a little shoddy.

u/kent1146 · 7 pointsr/vaporents

Model IH-005. The "Russian doll" Portable Dynavap Induction Heater.


Purpose: The purpose of this project is to create a design for a Dynavap Induction Heater that fit inside of a plastic 16oz coffee cup. Additionally, this design allows this Dynavap Induction Heater to be replicated using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.


Design: The design was intended to improve upon DIH-004 (link), which required the use of a custom chassis to align the internal parts correctly. DIH-005 incorporates a "sleeve" design (like a Russian doll) to align internal parts and provide a mounting platform for the induction heater power supply unit.



  • Can be built using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.
  • Portable (battery operated)
  • Stealthy (plastic 16oz coffee cup)
  • Can be used one-handed
  • 3-way toggle switch to run via internal rechargeable batteries; via 12V DC input; or off.
  • 11.1v internal rechargeable battery, constructed from standard 3.7v 18650 lithium cells. Integrated battery management system (BMS) with balanced charging
  • Blue status LED to indicate when running on battery power; green LED on lid lights up when induction heater is active.
  • Sweet-looking momentary push button on cap.
  • (optional) Additional Arduino momentary push button on cap (index finger operation)
  • Move DC 12V input jack and main power switch to cap. Easier build process, easier dis/re-assembly of unit)
  • A little bit of glass tube to pop out on the top, just because I think it looks cool.


    Parts List

  • (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  • (R) Container: Plastic 16oz coffee cup ($8)
  • (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  • (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  • (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  • (R) Battery Cells: Samsung 25R 20A 2500mAh 18650 batteries 3-pack ($19)
  • (R) Battery Management System (BMS): HX-3S-FL25A ($10). This is a 3S (3-series) battery management system with balanced charging. You MUST buy a BMS with balanced charging if you intend for the battery pack to be rechargeable inside the induction heater unit.
  • (R) Plastic Food Container: Look for 4oz round plastic food containers, with the correct dimensions (see diagrams). You want a container that can fit inside the 16oz plastic coffee cup. Try something like this. You can usually find a similar item in the food container section of a local Walmart, Target, or grocery store. Be prepared to use a saw and dremel to shave it down to the correct size.
  • (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 15 pack ($9)
  • (R) Switch (operating on/off): Momentary push button switch ($9) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw momentary switch. Voltage and current rating doesn't really matter. If you choose to get a switch with an LED indicator on it, you can forego the green LED on the cap.
  • (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A 72W Power Supply ($10)
  • (R) Switch (main power, both DC and batteries): Model 500SSP3S1M1REB. SPDT On/Off/On slide switch. ($4)
  • (O) LEDs: A bunch of multi-colored LEDs ($10).
  • (O) Index-finger switch: Arduino 6x6x6 tactile push button switch ($6)

    Miscellaneous parts:

  • Electrical wire
  • Electrical tape
  • 2-pin and 4-pin electrical connector plugs
  • Heat shrink tube
  • Hot glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | jigsaw (hacksaw if you don't have one) | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits
u/9737372876 · 1 pointr/BurningMan

We've historically used computer fans, which obviously don't plug into an outlet, but a simple DC adapter (like this one on Amazon or pick one up at basically any electronics store or like look around your house your old router or whatever likely used one) will fix that. You cited time concerns in not wanting to use an inverter, but honestly this shouldn't add more than, say, 5 minutes, especially if you're already making a trip to the store/waiting on shipping from the internet for the fan.

EDIT: Just to clairify, pretty much any adapter that says "Output: 12 V DC" on the back will work (assuming you have a 12V fan, which most seem to be)

u/anal_astronaut · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Here goes:

Parts list:



Power supply-

Speed controller (optional)-

Parts Notes:
You can get any 120mm fan locally (or any of these parts), this one isn't special. Make sure to note that its 12v DC and take note the amerage. This is imporant in sizing your power supply and/or speed controller. You may have a 12v DC wall charger to an old something or other laying around. As long as it is 12v DC and is around 1A, you should be all set. 0.7A, fine. 2.5A, fine... etc

Installation- I would put the fan inside the box exhausting upwards so the top of your box stays flush. You could put it on top of the box and have it pulling air out should you wish. The grill is optional to protect stuff from falling in and your fingers. Installation should be straight forward. Use small wood screws to mount both the fan and the grill. Pre-drill depending on wood type and screw size.

Powering it up- If you don't have a volt meter, take note of the positive and negative ends of everything before you cut any wires off. Label them clearly. If the fan has a 4 pin molex connector note the red and black pins. Plug them into the corresponding Load/Device side pins from your speed controller. Cut (or _____) and connect the positive lead from your wall plug to the red wire of the line side of the speed controller. Connect the negative to the black wire. Check your connections, then plug in the wall pack. Your speed control should now be controlling your fan.

To make the fan simply run at full load, connect the positive to the red of the fan, negative to the black of the fan to omit the speed controller.

All of these parts can be found at Frys / Radio Shack / local electronics or computer store.

Written at a (6). Sorry if unclear, just send a message.

u/Northbrig · 1 pointr/techsupport

You need an AC to DC power supply. Something like This.

The plug inlet is usually a C14, so your cord would be C13 to whatever the connector is used in your country. The Input range on those kind of power supplies is usually 100V-240V so they can be used in multiple countries, but you should check before buying.

The output voltage should be the same as what you need, and the Amp rating can be the same or higher than what you require. it usually terminates in a barrel connector, but the sizes vary, so you should check what size you need. They also come with inner positive and outer positive, so that needs to be the correct polarity as well.

If you have an old power supply with a part number on it, you can save yourself lots of trouble.

u/wolfman78 · 3 pointsr/DIY

You could use a switch like this inside the pantry: LINK

to turn on a small light. I'm not sure about the code as far as running line voltage inside a cabinet (I think it's prohibited), but I'm pretty sure you can run 12VDC inside a cabinet.

Something like this (LINK) is plenty powerful enough to run a 12V led light.

u/karmavorous · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Purchase guide? You mean like a list of stuff you need?

You need the bare board, like this, not saying buy this one because the price is a bit high, but just the board like this will suffice. I don't see any reason to get the B+ that just came out, but if it's the same price as a B go ahead. Microcenter has Pi3 B on sale right now for $30. Arrow Electronic often has them for $25-$30 and free overnight shipping on orders over $25.

You need a power supply. A lot of people use phone chargers and that works, but they may not give you a real 2.5a which can lead to more heat and throttling under load. Not sure if that's a problem with Octoprint - I think the bottleneck that limits Octopring performance is elsewhere. I have used this brand of dedicated power supply on several Pi builds and never had a problem. 3a in higher than most chargers. But I normally get a version without the in-line power switch - which seems to be gone from Amazon.

And you need a MicroSD card. Class 10 is preferred, but by no means necessary. And the size of SD card you get will be the size of the library of files you can store on the Raspberry Pi. However, the interface for navigating through a large cache of files through the OctoPrint interface isn't so good, so therefor the size of the card you need may really only be 8GB or less as you'll probably delete files off the card once you print them. 8GB is a crap load of GCode files and scrolling down a list of 10 files is annoying, much less 1GB worth, much much less 6+ GB (on an 8GB card).

And you'll want a case, but you might just want to print one rather than buy one. Cases are really a preference thing. For buyable cases I love C4 Labs acrylic cases.

You might want some heat sinks. Every Pi case I've ever bought (like 7 at this point) came with heat sinks. Here's some over priced copper ones. But I have been running my Octopi for three weeks solid, printing 8-12 hours per day, and I don't have any heat sinks on it. I don't think Octoprint really needs heatsinks, but many people will tell you to get them anyway because cheap insurance and all that. The $16 Flirc case acts as a heatsink itself.

u/w00kie_d00kie · 1 pointr/telescopes

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

u/lordhamster1977 · 3 pointsr/onebag

There are like a million versions of that same basic adapter. You can probably score one off ebay for less than $3.

That said, if you want something super packable and light that works worldwide check out:
this badboy is awesome and super thin.

u/Miami_Mike · 5 pointsr/Vive

The power supply for the HMD is rated at 12 volts, 1.5 amps. This "ZOZO" adapter from Amazon should work fine. I just checked my Vive HMD power supply with a meter and the polarity is "inner Positive(+), outer Negative(-)", just like in the Zozo description, so polarity won't be a problem. Just pick out the plug adapter that fits from the assortment they give you and set the voltage to 12 volts.

Edit: The $10.98 unit is rated at 12 watts, which is only 1 amp at 12 volts, so the current rating of that unit is lower that the original power supply. Maybe you'd better get the 36 watt unit for $14.99, just in case. That unit should be good for 3 amps, which means double the rated capacity of the original supply.

Amazon has a lot of other choices as well. Just look for 12 volt capability at at least 1.5 amps (or 18 watts), the correct polarity, and an assortment of plug adapters so that you'll get one that fits.

u/queuebitt · 3 pointsr/anker

The Atom PD 4 you linked is Anker's only dual USB-C desktop charger. It would of met your requirements, though was also overkill. It has had availability issues since release.

With your devices you're looking for a charger that supports:

  • iPhone 11 Pro Max: USB-C Power Delivery, 18W or more
  • iPad Pro 2018: USB-C Power Delivery, 30W or more
  • Samsung Note 9, Quick Charge 3.0 or USB-C Power Delivery, 18W or more

    If the Note 10 changes fasting specs it'll go more toward USB-C Power Delivery, possibly up to 25W with PPS. But that's speculation.

    Next closest Anker option is the PowerPort Speed 5 PD. Only one USB-C port, but will fast charge any of your devices. The USB-A ports support Apple 2.4A, an older fast charging tech the iPhone 11 should still support. It is a bit slower than USB-C PD or the included charger. But much faster than the old iPhone 5W charger. The Samsung will also charge via USB-A, but slower.

    Best non-Anker option is probably the Satechi 75W Dual Type-C Travel Charger. Two USB-C ports, either will fast charge iPhone and Samsung. Top one charges iPad Pro at max rate (bottom works in a lot of cases, too). And two regular USB-A ports.
u/2old2care · 1 pointr/diyaudio

They are almost certainly 4 ohms or more, so won't damage a normal amplifier. They are also probably not rated for a lot of power. I've had great luck with these little amplifiers. They sound great, just don't expect a lot of volume. You will need a 12-volt power supply for the amp--like this.

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!

Thing |Price | Quantity
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1

Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/Hookerlips · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

  1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.

  2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.

  3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings

  4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.

  5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync

  6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest

  7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...
u/I_notta_crazy · 1 pointr/DIY

Let me preface this by saying that I'm not an expert. But if you want this to run continuously, you'll want a DC power supply, maybe something like this instead. The batteries will lose charge over time, meaning the fan will run slower and eventually stop. Also, your fan pulls about 1 Amp, meaning that the internal resistance (?) of the batteries and the fan may mean that you won't be able to run it at all (the required current would be greater than the maximum current available from the batteries). But yes, to answer your question about hooking up, if you connected the red wire to the positive terminal of a 12 volt battery and the black wire to the negative, it would run, assuming it could supply enough amperage to make it run. If you bought something like the power supply I linked, you can just cut the end off of it and wire up the positive wire to the red wire of the fan and the negative wire to the black wire of the fan.

u/vigulfr · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Well, originally I used the guitar slide and I had about 7 coils. It worked fine, but the LED stopped lighting up on the switch, and I went back and redid the wiring really well. From that point on, the LED still didn't work but when the button was pressed the LED on the heater unit would light. Once a dyna was inserted into the coil, however, the light would go off. I posted here and someone recommended that I switch to this PSU, and it's worked fine since.

When I went to mount into this case permanently last night, I metered the switch out and it looks like the LED is hosed. A replacement switch will be here tomorrow.

Stainless tip.

Thanks for your guide!

u/Abcdqfr · 17 pointsr/oculus

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

u/ScrewTheAverage · 3 pointsr/onebag

We're not sure which one (if any) is a 'white label' of the other (they look very similar) but as an alternative we've been very happy with the Kikkerland UL03-A. It's also affordable at about $10 (and currently less than the one above).

We're r/Onebag travelers so volume (4 1/8 L x 1 6/8 W x 5/8 D inches, per our measurements) and weight (1.6 ounces, per product page) are very important to us.

We've plugged/unplugged it over ~75 times over the last year and it's as good as new.

u/MiOdd · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

u/steelsnow · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I've been looking into whole home audio. I plan on doing powered speakers and chromcast audios so I can sync them all up. The MB42X are what I was going to get for my garage, but the powered version PB24X. I think it's like $120 for the set. You can get a different power supply and up the wattage from 15 to 50. That should get it plenty loud. Now, the reason for the chromecast audio is for the quality. Bluetooth isn't there yet, in my option, but the chromecast pretty much is. You'll get better quality out of that.

u/fernandowatts · 0 pointsr/buildapcforme
The following build focused on form factor and total tdp. This is a tiny build and has a total draw of less than 80w. The only thing I could not list (mobile) is the pico psu . that will add 30$ to the build listed below. You can find the! Here

You could save a bit of coin going with the sempron but it fits the budget and will be a better chip

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $64.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI AM1I Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $36.99 @ Newegg
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY XLR8 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $63.31 @ NCIX US
Case | Mini-Box M350 HTPC Case | $34.95 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN725N 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $8.88 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $236.11

u/Sseleman · 1 pointr/dogemarket

Wiring is easy:

Amazon PSU:

Figure in the power costs you save and the ROI on one of these is less then a GPU mining rig. It can actually save you money if you sell your current rig and switch to all of these. :)

u/sallybangs · 2 pointsr/SexToys

It looks like just a regular AC wall charger. This thing has tons of attachments and one will definitely fit!

ZOZO 12W 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Regulated Multi Voltage Switching Replacement Power AC Adapter for Household Electronics Routers Speakers CCTV Cameras Smart Phone USB Charging Devices

u/DudeOnACouch2 · 1 pointr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

Any chance you have an Amazon link? There's one that's "official", but I never know if they can really be trusted, lol

u/Zivxi · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Just got mine, they were also out of stock. I went with one of these:

As always, it's up to you to triple check. 2.1x5.5mm, center positive, 5v, at least 1amp. That link seems to check all the boxes, and is UL listed for what it's worth. I've used it for a few hours and it seems OK. Agree do not use higher VOLTAGE though higher AMPERAGE is ok. Their site still says they're not responsible for damage due to power supply that isn't theirs.

Good luck!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/photography

Awesome! Thank you. I definitely plan on buying an adapter before I go to the airport. Someone recommended this one to me:

u/popsicle_of_meat · 2 pointsr/diysound

Tube amps have different terminology than I'm used to (filament what now), but it looks like it needs 12V 2A minimum to be safe. You could use anything from a wall-wart like THIS to a custom built DIY amplifier power supply.

u/Froobyflake · 1 pointr/electronics

Awesome response, thank you!! Follow up question: Lets say I used this guy

Could I simply strip off the barrel jack (which would leave me a power and a ground wire), then branch two wires off of the power wire to power the arduino and both steppers?

I need to make it work off of one dc converter from my wall outlet. Perhaps a better way to do it would be a barrel jack splitter, if that exists?

u/AnAngryJelly · 0 pointsr/audiophile

Alright. I am so sorry that I'm being annoying..

how do these


compare to these

Dayton B652 $42.50

Micca MB42 $59.95

Micca MB42x $79.95

What is the best bang for your buck?

Could you put the speakers in Best to Worst?

I plan on gettin the Lepai 2020A+ unless there is a better amp for the price and then adding a Power Supply Upgrade

u/sixside · 3 pointsr/digitalnomad

I still see so many people using those bulky power adapters for international trips. Clearly not enough people know about the Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter

It's the about half the thickness & weight of all of those other adapters.

Care to share your database? :)

u/gemorris · 13 pointsr/onebag

I get adapters for my cords so I can carry fewer: I have just a short and long USB-C cord but then alternate tips I can put on it to change into micro USB, lightning, and plug into a regular USB slot if need be.

I also carry a tiny flashlight on a keychain hanging off my pack - it's surprising how often this comes in handy.

The Kikkerland Universal Travel Adapter is AMAZING, works everywhere and is a third of the size of most travel adapters:

u/UrFavSoundTech · 2 pointsr/Lighting

Something like this is your best bet.

If your not good with soldering you can use something like this.

Dont worry if the label on the connector is wrong, copper is copper.

I get my Led strips from alitove on amazon. They sell different pixel density.

Any 5v power supply(once again alitove) will be sufficient, I recommend a 10a one. You can use it to run your RPI and your leds. The hdmi switcher and hdmi to rca can run off your tv power if your tv has usb plugs.

u/codepony · 1 pointr/watercooling

I've been using one of these for many years now, different brand than I have, but it's exactly the same thing. Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter. It's useful for testing other stuff too, like fans and lighting, as well.

u/jaredjdr · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Appreciate the info! That’s what I’m struggling with. The guide mentioned 5a for first builds, but if I’m better off with 6a and going the MOSFET route, I’d rather know now. On that subject, what do you think of this?

Power supply

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W


API-ELE [3 year warranty] All New Design 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye LED

With this setup do I still need the MOSFET?


u/nmezib · 2 pointsr/oculus

ohh yes I forgot it's not included. You're going to need a power thing for it. I heard this works well. Keep in mind that you will also need an extra HDMI and USB (male to male) cables as well.

I think it's really silly they don't include them with the box to be honest.

u/longunmin · 1 pointr/arduino

I tried powering the motor via a breadboard barrel jack instead of the arduino, but got the same results. The motor whined, the driver started to heat up and smell. All-in-all not expected behavior. This is my first time with steppers and such, so I'm sure I did something wrong, I just don't know where to start with troubleshooting.

Here are the items that I am using:
Arduino Uno
Big Easy Driver
[12V Adapter] (
Stepper Motor

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

u/SuperMar1o · 2 pointsr/oculus

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

u/flexyourhead_ · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Something like this

If you're like me, you have about a dozen lying around. Usually the positive wire will have a stripe or dashes printed on it. The best bet would be to test to determine. In this case, if you have it backwards, it probably just wouldn't work.

u/mdcd4u2c · 2 pointsr/esp8266

Perfect, that's exactly what I was hoping. So if I were to use something like this to supply the power and split it inside the enclosure, that should work right?

u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/watercooling

This is great for filling and re-filling your res with a top entrance.

This is a nice item to have for powering on pumps without a PSU.

I used these to cut and clean my PETG tubing.

u/scintilist · 2 pointsr/engineering

Ok, if runs on AA batteries, the step-down converter I linked, powered by a 12V 1A wall transformer like this one will definitely work. No additional components needed, just adjust the output voltage of the step-down converter before connecting it to your device.

Side note: you mention the device 'essentially short circuiting', but for a heating element to be effective, it must have significantly higher resistance than the elements in series with it, in this case the battery and wires. I would bet that the heating element has a measurable resistance in the range of 1-5 ohms, measured while hot.

Also, it's pretty obvious you're modding a vaporizer, no need to be so evasive about it.

u/Schwerlin · 1 pointr/techsupport

So, the good news is that you're overthinking it a bit. That adapter takes 110v from the wall and outputs 12v and up to 50 watts. Something like this or this should solve your issue, you just need to make sure what the size of the barrel connector for the output is.

u/YourBeigeBastard · 2 pointsr/pcmods

For the most part, monitors will either use an AC power cable like this or a DC power cable like this. There's other plug shapes for both AC and DC power, but for the most part, if there's a big block somewhere on the power cable it's DC, otherwise it's AC

If it's taking DC power, the block should have information written on it about what voltage it's outputting (likely, this will be 5v or 12v). In this case, you can just cut off the power block from the plug, and solder the wires to a molex or sata cable

If it's taking AC power, it's slightly more difficult. Generally, there will be an extra PSU board inside the monitor to convert power to DC power, which won't be necessary in the final build. Often, there will be wires between the PSU and control board that are used for other functions like controlling the backlight which aren't needed, and ultimately only a few wires should actually be required to power everything. These wires are normally labeled on the control board's PCB, but they're often hard to read since most people will never need to look at them; it's definitely a good idea to go slowly and prod at the board with a multi-meter

Immoddernation did a tutorial which covers the AC power option a little bit, in his video he narrowed it down to 5v and ground wires to power the control board, which he soldered to a molex connector. On my build, I needed ground, 3.3v, and 5v, so I bought a sata power extension and soldered the wires to that, since sata supports 3.3v output. If you're comfortable making your own PSU cables from scratch, you could alternately make a connector that plugs straight into the PSU, but imo sata and molex are easier to disconnect quickly, and since they're standard plugs they'll work with any PSU once they're made

u/cnc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

This is the power brick, though you could buy any number of other ones like that one.

This setup (MB42x and Lepai Amp) doesn't really shine until you turn it up pretty loud. I wouldn't discourage you from getting it, but it was only marginally better than my old Logitech z-640 setup at low volumes. At higher volumes it's way, way better.

u/rehpotsirhc123 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

These are supposed to be pretty good:

This power brick will help them output a higher volume:

You'll need an RCA to 3.5mm or 3.5 to 3.5 cable.

u/exophrine · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I never used one before the past few weeks either, and I'm never looking back. The buttons feel great, the Pi responds only complaint is that the 1 and 2 shoulder buttons on both sides are a little too close, but that's negligible, you get used to it quick.

Here are my RetroPie details:


There are appropriate power bricks(2.5a+, 5v) that have a power toggle. Something like this:
(Havnt used it, I've just seen it around when looking for the 'same thing' you are)

If your not looking to change the case out for one with buttons, like you had mentioned, your options are a shutdown script macro key/'manual' shutdown + something like that or doing something with the gpio pins and a custom switch to have with the existing case, hope it's something to consider sorry if I wasn't much help

u/nevondrax · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

That depends on which enclosure you have, can you maybe send a link or some example of your encloure? Then i can help you with the power adaptor.

Normally you only need a 12V/2A adaptor for hard drive enclosures, but some take 12V and 5V like yours seems to do, which is slightly unusal.

It could also have a molex plug, if it should really need both voltages, then you can buy something like this: clicky

u/provia · 3 pointsr/analog

120 isn't more expensive per roll than 135, you just pay more per shot which isn't the worst.

that said i had a friend with many very broken chinese made Seagull TLRs so he turned a few of them into flower pots (just use the waist level finder for that) or, which i like more, into a desk lamp. You can use the tripod thread to make a little stand for it, set the camera to bulb and throw an LED spot behind the taking lens. all you then need is a little transformer and some simple wiring and you're in Pinterest heaven! it won't even damage the camera as the heat output from the LEDs won't be too much. you can even dim it with the aperture lever.

u/random_account_538 · 1 pointr/ODroid

I dunno, 2.5x0.8mm is pretty easy to find on amazon. The same goes for the 5.5x2.1mm, that one is probably the easiest as a number of them are made with plugs that work in 5.5x2.2mm as well.

u/subtraho · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

This is amazing - the best part is I have almost all of the pieces just lying around!

One note: for a little more money ($15), you can get a 110V AC to 12V DC 4-pin molex adapter, which basically gives you a power plug just like the ones coming off of a PC power supply. With a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter to connect to the potentiometer (many fans will even come with these) you could actually do this without any splicing any wiring at all. This is what I plan to do as I have one of these power supplies just sitting around from a past project.

Example power supply

u/diab64 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I found a solution without having to do any DIY:

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter + Phobya Adapter Cable, 4-Pin Molex to 4-Pin (PWM), 30cm, Sleeved, Black

Thank you for your advice though. I really hope it will have enough pull to work for me for this purpose.

u/TuhHahMiss · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

Oh okay, that's fine. If you have a link to the one you're thinking of, I can check it out and let you know what all you'd need.

Alternatively, if your budget is ~$60 total, here's a link to a ProCo Rat clone for much cheaper. It uses pretty much the same exact circuit, and sounds nearly identical.

For powering that clone (which uses the standard polarity), here is an inexpensive power supply. By searching "9v power supply" on Amazon I was also able to find inexpensive similar units that can power multiple pedals (if you decide to add on later).

Lastly, if you only have one cable to go from guitar to amp, you'll need a second one to go from guitar to pedal, then pedal to amp. If you're looking to buy something inexpensive, here's one that I used to own. It lasted me about five years before it gave out.

Those three together bring you to a total just under fifty bucks.

u/JulieJulep · 0 pointsr/travel

For charging things, you need both a converter and adapter if your electronics aren't dual voltage, one for dealing with the different shapes of the outlets in Europe, and one for dealing with the different voltage. Rick Steves talks about it here. Usually they're now in one piece. I got mine at Bed Bath & Beyond for pretty cheap. Here's an example. I have this, which is only a plug adapter because my electronics are marked dual voltage.

As for overhead room, I've never had trouble, especially if you aren't bringing anything bigger than a standard backpack or duffel bag. Even if it does get crowded, the flight attendants usually go around playing tetris so everyone can find space.

All flights I've been on had front door loading only, boarding by 'zones,' where 1/2/3 are first/business/priority passengers. Your zone will be marked on your ticket. Coach zones (like 3/4/5) have always boarded last. You won't be able to get on first unless you pay extra for the better front seats.

u/chx_ · 3 pointsr/UsbCHardware

I am beginning to think these "split" chargers are just not working out. Here's another. I am not fully surprised , USB PD is complex and if you make a charger like this you can't use a reference implementation and there can be firmware bugs and -- curiously enough , none of these chargers have a firmware update mode.

There are fixed dual port chargers like this or this (these two might be the same electrically) that I'd trust a lot more. The upcoming Maru&Masa is fixed wattage, too.

u/PeteyNice · 1 pointr/travel

This is what I use and I have never had a problem. It works in the recessed outlets that Europe seems to favor better than the large bricks that others have recommended on this thread.

u/outpath · 1 pointr/solotravel
  1. Exactly which countries will you need this to work in? As you can see from this map, there are a bewildering variety of plug types around the world.

  2. What type of plugs do your devices have—North American ones?

  3. How many outlets do you need this device to have? What about USB?

    If size is your primary concern, check out something like the Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter, which I own. While it is small and works in most countries in the world, I find plugging in something heavy like a Mac adapter into it tends to pull it out of the outlet.

    TooManyAdapters recommends the Flight 001 4-In-1 Adapter. While on the expensive side, they say it fits snugly into all the outlets they tested.
u/ITXorBust · 1 pointr/buildapc

Poke a few holes in the back, mount a 200mm fan on one side as an intake and on the other side as an exhaust, you'll have a sufficient number of air changes per hour as to not have thermal throttling issues.

Use a 12V wall-wart, split open the DC output cable, splice it together with a couple fan connectors, and bang you've got a nice always-on fan power supply.

u/sinfuljosh · 1 pointr/xboxone

Depending on your video connections between your pc to your monitor (dvi , hdmi, DisplayPort) what about using an audio video selector?

Assuming that the Xbox is connecting to the monitor via hdmi, it can pass audio through that. And if your pc is has that or if using a different method you just have to find a selector with the right connections.

Example :
Hdmi in from of and Xbox into the selector.

HDMI out to monitor and this one has toslink out as stereo out.

Etekcity 4 Port HDMI Switcher Selector with Audio, IR wireless remote, AC power Adapter, Supports 3D 1080P, Toslink, Coaxial, 3.5mm AUX Stereo

The one snag is getting the mic to work like this. Depending on your headset you might need a selector that was mic also . More like a KVM

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

this one from amazon is also a great deal $9 with two day shipping if you have prime ;)

u/gzunk · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You need a PicoPSU like this and an external power supply like this.

You get different power ratings, I just linked to the 80W versions.

[Edit] Sorry, links don't appear to work, but if you search on the store you can find them.

[Edit-2] Changed links to amazon links, slightly different products but they do the same job.

[Edit-3] Looks like it comes with the PSU, so you only need the external power brick.

u/MRotss · 1 pointr/Vive

Not sure if both power adapters are pushing through the same voltage, but here another redditor bought a replacement power adapter for the lighthouse stations:

He used these ones, they worked perfectly:

u/pornaccount2500 · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Hi space bucket folks.

Here is my bucket build. I at the stage of testing the temp and humidity. Next steps are to tack down the wiring and power supply, buy a cabinet to stash the bucket in...and then start growing!

Here are the parts I bought off amazon:



power adapters and mylar:

(shout out to /u/mcscroggins for posting his build. I referred to it while building. And thanks to other posters in this sub for posting pics of their builds for ideas and such).

u/thealo4taslkfj · 1 pointr/dogecoin

OK thanks, I took the plunge and also ordered this power supply I read about in another thread for $13 on amazon.

u/rtf2 · 2 pointsr/funny

Some A/V equipment has power out and all you need is the right adapter. Otherwise, something like this works well enough. Pricing varies a lot with adapters, so digging around might find you a better deal.

u/kmcg103 · 2 pointsr/sonos

Sorry but I can't answer your question about using the apps on your smart TV. To watch football I use an OTA antenna and play the audio thru my tv speakers. here is the switch that I use:

u/sponslerm · 1 pointr/pcmods

I have one of these. It works great. I used it to power a fan.

u/LightShadow · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

My solution that I'm testing this weekend is using a AC -> DC Molex power adapter like this.

Split the Molex into its 5v and 12v rails and power each from both.

This allows for a molex "plug" in the back without sticking the power supply inside the unit as well :)

u/MichaelFR85 · 1 pointr/oculus

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

u/freefallinfrog · 1 pointr/arduino

Thank you for the reply, I was looking at using ws2812 strips because they give me the option to change colors, so i could hook up a dip switch and have different modes for her use depending on what she wanted it to display. I did the math for this and it seems like it would require 5 amps to power all the LEDs in the strip that I want on. I am struggling to find a 5v 6amp power supply that i could use for both the lights and the arduino.

I was looking for a barrel plug to connect to the arduino for power then i would just strip that and add the lights in parallel to that, would that work or is there a better way to do it?

edit: I found This power supply. Would this work to provide power to the arduino and LEDs?

u/dankcushions · 1 pointr/RetroPie

i only trust the specs of the official power supply:

mind you, now that i think about it, my pi froze once exiting kodi also. so maybe it's just kodi :)

u/Rrussell2060 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yes, you will need an amp. This is the cheapest amp I would recommend, it does not come with a power cable or cables to connect to PC so I have included them as well.

Kinter MA-180 12V MINI Power Car Computer Amplifier USB Port Charging (Red)
by Kinter

Replacement 60W 12V 5A Adapter Charger for Benq LCD Monitors
by electree

C&E 3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual RCA Male (Right and Left) Audio Cable, 1 Foot
by C&E

u/nofear1056 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Is this a Lepai add on or just any old 6amp power supply like this? Sorry if that's a dumb question, just want to make sure I get it right. I appreciate the help.

u/likewut · 72 pointsr/DIY

Most 140mm case fans should only pull 1-2 watts.

A small wall wart should do it. I'd just repurpose something I already had, but something like this would do it:

Also going down to 9v might be an option for this setup as it would make it quieter at the expense of slower fan speed.

u/jagedlion · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you really don't want to buy anything, you could power that off an old computer power supply. On the big connector, short the green wire to a black wire, so the power supply turns on when switched on, and from one of the power connectors, connect a yellow (+12V) to your positive, and the black to your ground.

Granted, 12V 6A power supplies are $10 with prime shipping from amazon. So that might make more sense.

Edit: for example

u/leica_boss · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Want quality? Your amp probably accepts a volt or two above/below 12v. Probably no need for a regulator as long as it's close. You could build a nice power supply with a 9v toroidal transformer, a full-wave DC rectifier bridge, and some capacitors. This would provide a little over 12VDC, as much amperage as you need depending on the VA rating of the transformer and size of the capacitors.

Or you can just buy one like this, which worked fine for me for Tripath amps...

(there are other cheaper prime eligible ones, not sure if they work as well).

u/cjs911217 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You can squeeze out a bit more juice from the Miccas with this. That's the setup I'm currently using. Sounds pretty good on my desk. Considering getting a subwoofer for it, though.

u/Rozivue · 2 pointsr/DIY

Power supply was a 12V, 2A AC to DC converter like in the link below. An adapter is available for these power units that convert the 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug to two pins that can then be wired for positive and negative leads (the power supply linked below comes with one of these). Each bulb had it's own +/- wire that ran to the center fitting. All six positive wires were spliced into a ring terminal. The same was done for the negatives. Each terminal was then attached to the power supply adapter.

u/TMaccius · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I had been operating the chamber as a son of a fermentation chiller for a while. To upgrade it, I got a regular computer heatsink for inside, a liquid pump heatsink to pipe the heat outside, a 77-watt cooler, and a 6A power supply (the cooler actually pulls around 4.5A). I used the same cooler to repair a broken Craigslist wine fridge, which has better insulation and can hit the mid-50s.

I haven't tested the SOFC too much since the redesign, and I just started my first beer in it. But to be safe during active fermentation, I just stuck some ice bottles in the chamber as usual. The airflow isn't as good as it was before, because now I'm using a fan with a heatsink on it rather than a case fan, but it seems to be working okay. At least until I left the lid ajar this morning... (Fortunately it's a Belgian!)

u/DesolationRobot · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This guy will be a drop-in replacement. The white thing looks like a surface-mount junction box. Just conceals and protects the wiring connectors.

Once you have 12vDC running where 12vAC used to be running, then getting LED puck lights should be direct swap replacement.

One advantage of the strip/tape is that that you have to wire it in fewer places--just ones per continuous strip. Your kitchen has 3 distinct areas of upper cabinets, so this doesn't save you much. For kitchens with fewer and longer runs you often don't have to run any additional wiring beyond getting the 12v to the strip in one place.

The strips also provide more even light rather than a few finite hot spots, but that's a preference thing. It looks cool in my modern kitchen, but might look off-putting in your traditional one.

u/DyLIGENTSAMURAI · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Having some issues getting mine set up, anyone able to help a brotha out?

I noticed you used ws2812b led strip but I have Different wires and I cant get my led strip to light up. I feel like such a noob. I tried following the imgur guide but i guess I'm a little slow and cant figure it out.

Here's what I bought....




u/creed_bratton_ · 1 pointr/arduino

To power the lights you can just use a 12v power supply like this.

And if you want to use an arduino to turn it off and on, you can just use a simple relay like this

Personally I think this solution is a little simpler and less confusing than messing with a mosfet etc... But the other solutions that people have mentioned in this thread will work too.

u/Hype_man_SFW · 1 pointr/DIY

Do you want/need the ability to change the colors? I feel like adding color changing with mobile control is a bit overkill here. A simple backing board with LEDs hardwired, an on/off button or switch, and a small cord to plug it into the wall would be enough. Even if you want to use an Arduino I'd still suggest plugging in into a wall instead of batteries, especially if you include some form of mobile link.


Edit: if you are not good with circuits I would suggest starting with something like this, a power supply ( the 5V one they suggest will work) , and an Arduino with a library that works with the WS2811. Plug the lights into holes on a firm thin board behind the planets and light them up or flash them with the arduino. If you don't like the big bulbs and can solder you could also just glue these to the board.

If you get that going then add the mobile control, or don't, later.

u/Morton_Fizzback · 1 pointr/consolerepair

The PAL SNES power supply actually outputs AC and not DC. However, the console will still accept DC inout, since the AC is being converted internally anyway.
You need it to be 9V, and at least 1.3A (according to spec, it might be less). Your first link doesn't have enough amps, and the second one doesn't seem to have the information. The polarity doesn't matter since it's expects AC anyway.
The tip needs to fit in the plug, so you might want to get a universal power supply to be sure. I quick search led me to this one (which is 12W, which means that at 9V it is: 12/9=1.33A):
(there might be other ones on amazon that are cheaper, I just sorted by relevance.)
And it seems that tip1 will fit. (outer diameter 5.5mm inner diameter 2.5mm). (you might want to make sure this is correct).
If you have other consoles at home, it is also possible that you can use one of their supplies, though I don't think the NES barrel will fit, and it's a little low on amps, so it might get too hot and die.
I've just seen that the power supply I've found doesn't have the option to choose polarity. It doesn't matter in your case, but it's pretty sucky if you wanna use it for other stuff.

u/Andronew71 · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Thanks! If you do end up going with this telescope, I'd recommend getting the AC adapter especially if you plan on doing backyard astronomy as it doesn't come with one.
I'm also looking into buying a solar filter eventually.

u/legoboy0109 · 1 pointr/Modding

If you're still looking. I'd recommend using a simple 12V DC power adapter like this, and putting the female port it comes with on the back of the console, then you can wire 12V LEDs and fans to this instead of trying to use the built-in power supply. it's only 24W, so I'm not sure how much you could do with this one, but you can probably find something with more power.

EDIT: I realized fans and LEDs don't use very much power, so that should be fine. Adding in some small 80mm or 60mm fans to the CPU and GPU heatsinks and wiring LEDs to this should be fine. I would even wire switches for the fans and LEDs separately so I could turn them on and off if I wanted.

u/Exploding_Knives · 1 pointr/buildapc

Okay, so the Walmart AC adapter is only 500mA. So that's not happening.

On amazon I found this 5A adapter and this 2A adapter.

Combined with this splitter, would these be a good solution? Is it possible to have too many amps and destroy the pump and fan?

u/gschizas · 2 pointsr/Amstrad


  • Most cables come from Retrocables. Specifically, it's an RGB-SCART Amstrad CPC cable, which converts the DIN video plug of 6128 and the audio out plug to a SCART plug, which connects to most TVs. I also got a molex-to-power cable - both 5V and 12V, so that I can power my CPC without the monitor.
  • The SD Floppy emulator comes from Lotharek in Poland (so if you're in the EU, there's no customs).
  • The power brick comes from Amazon - it's a standard Molex power adapter. I also got a cable extension, to give power to both the SD Floppy emulator (which uses a 3.5"-floppy-like power connector) and the CPC.
  • The floppy cable is a plain standard floppy cable. It came from my drawers :)
u/AddictedToComedy · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Slightly different form-factor, but you could always get a setup like this for less than half the cost:

LED Flexible Light Strip - $8 Prime

Power supply - $8 Prime

I'm betting someone will come along and tell me there are even cheaper options than the one I linked, especially going through a Chinese site :D

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/pcmods

Galvanic corrosion will be an issue any time the two metals are connected by something conductive. In this case, water. Even distilled or DI water - it'll snap ions out of the metals in a heartbeat and instantly become conductive again.

Also, that water block you linked is said to be copper in the title, and then aluminum in the description.

If you could get the 10mm thick block to work, that'd be your best bet. Or you could just build a 100% aluminum loop; it won't perform as well as copper but it'll still be fine for your purposes.

As for the power supply, the one you linked might work but it looks a bit sketchy since it doesn't have an output amperage rating. I've got one of these which is rated for 2A on the 12V; that'll be enough for a good pump and a few fans.

u/Moto13k · 1 pointr/VRGaming

I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.

i have the following hardware:

u/DrHELLvetica · 21 pointsr/homelab

I have that same amp. I find that upgrading the power supply to a nicer 3 prong model, like the one linked below, will eliminate all noise and static at higher volumes.

u/Heffeweizen · 1 pointr/escaperooms

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!

u/mjbehrendt · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I want this stellar poster so bad. I figure the odds of winning are astronomical.

If you want something more practical, this is an AC power supply for my telescope.

u/other_thoughts · 3 pointsr/arduino

You didn't specify how big you wanted, but may I suggest "Addressable LEDs"?
You will need to be able to solder wires.
Here is a 1 meter length strip, 12mm wide is ~ 1/2 inch,
6.9mm is ~ 0.27 inch between centers
Here's a closeup of all the details:
adhesive to mount the strip
when you want a short piece to fit, you cut to length and then rejoin with 3 wires.
See the 3 colored pads? See the Arrows?

Software? look at "Adafruit_NeoPixel" library, there are several examples
Here is an incomplete example of filling a whole string
// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, c);;
$22 144 pixels, Not Waterproof Black flexible PCB
$21 for power to the strip

u/euThohl3 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I've bought a few of these -- they're pretty good for $9:

Battery chargers can be weird. They don't just output some voltage, they follow a charging algorithm for batteries, which isn't what you want to power a simple load.

u/Josh_Your_IT_Guy · 2 pointsr/HelpMeFind

This will work as long as the tip fits

ZOZO 12W 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Regulated Multi Voltage Switching Replacement Power Universal AC Adapter for Household Electronics Routers Speakers CCTV Cameras Smart Phone USB Charging Devices

Just note it is center negative! (Most are center positive, so for
this you need to make sure the tip is set to the - side not the +)

Edit corrected link

Edit, this one too
[Inner Negative] SoulBay 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Multi Voltage AC/DC Adapter Switching Replacement Power Supply with 6 Plugs for Household Electronics Tip Negative Effects Pedals Keyboards - 2A Max

u/elmoret · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

4 of these - you could use cardboard to save more money - $32

1 of these - $5

1 of these - $22

1 of these - $8

Optional: $10 PWM controller for the blower.

So under $50 with cardboard, a bit over $50 with acrylic.

u/ErantyInt · 1 pointr/crtgaming
  • Power issues: You'll need to get a better PSU. I recommend the RPiF one. The MediaPi+ says it comes with a 5v 5A, but I don't believe that for a second lol.

  • Lighting Bolt: See power issues, it's a warning for constant undervolting.

  • Bluetooth: If you want to use a dongle, disable onboard BT buy adding this to /boot/config.txt and rebooting:


    Then go into the bluetooth app and sync your controller. If it's an 8bitdo, don't forget to write a UDEV rule and change the connect method to BOOT.
u/oerkel47 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

There are lot of 12V psu with those 5mm plugs on amazon.
Yours was capable of 300mA. It's no problem if you get a new one that is capable of higher output current.

If the end that goes into the fountain is the same type of plug but male, you can just get one that has an implemented cable with male output plug. Example. Just be sure about the right plug dimensions, like /u/Pocok5 said.

edit: Your psu says 12V AC. That's odd. The one I linked is DC, so nevermind. This one would be an example for 12V AC.

u/quiteCryptic · 3 pointsr/VisitingIceland

Bring your own they are cheap... here are 2 of my favorites


Just make sure your electronics can handle a 220v input (most modern electronics you will see are rated for 100-220v which means you can use them anywhere as long as you have an adapter)

u/Virisenox_ · 1 pointr/batteries

In that photo, the 9V is providing power to the Arduino and the AAs are providing power to the servos, or whatever that box is powering. For your setup, you can power the Arduino via USB like you're doing, and then power the servos with a 6V power supply. You can either buy a power supply on Amazon (this one is universal, so be sure to select the 6V setting when you use it) or you can go to a Goodwill and find a power supply that outputs 6V (and at least 1.5A). If you go the latter route, be sure to test the voltage first. You'll need to cut off the end of the cable and put the power wires into the breadboard. As long as the power supply can output at least 1.5A (roughly 4x the stall current of the servos) you'll be able to run them all in parallel.

Edit: To clarify: Get some sort of 6V power supply, take apart the cable, and put the positive and negative wires in the same spots you have your 4xAA battery right now.

For future reference, unless you need something to be portable or want it to survive a power outage, there's no reason to use batteries instead of an outlet.

u/RockstarGTA6 · 1 pointr/PlaystationClassic

Just got this , problem solved , also I have 2 usb flashdrives and now when I switch I don’t need to unplug the power cord from the ps classic

I saw this posted here working great

u/l337sponge · 1 pointr/dogecoin

watch out for good deals on gridseeds. You can get them for 40-50 bucks right now.

I'm using this power supply

This splitter

Amazonbasics 7port USB hub which was for sale on amazon for $18.99

Hooked up to my win7 machine running CGminer, might go to raspberry pi route soon just to get it out of my room. As I said, I don't pay for power so ya... otherwise ROI would be basically unattainable which it pretty much is anyway.

You CANNOT DUAL MINE with this setup. SCRYPT ONLY, Absolutely NO SHA-256. power supply with splitter works, simply because gridseeds use such little power in scrypt only mode.

u/CJRhoades · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you'd like you can replace the entire power adapter. Something like this or any other 18-24V 5-6A adaptor will do.

u/tomj300sr · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have a similar motor shield. you need a power supply. especially if you are running just 3v instead of the 5 for the Arduino.

you need to know the rating of your Servo/ stepper motors and provide the power for that. for example I supplied I think it was around 1.8 amps at 2.2 volts or something for mine.
if I were you I would get something that provides different voltages like a universal like :

it will make testing and compatible with other project.

u/theWinterDojer · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Get the NorthPada. It is capable of supply 3A, which will easily handle overclocking and any peripherals, and also has an on/off switch so you don't have to keep pulling out the cable. The on/off switch is must have after you use it.

u/rosemaryorchard · 1 pointr/onebag

I have this Satechi. One USB C port outputs 60W, the other 18W, and it has 2 USB A ports on it. I'm very happy with mine, as it can serve as my sole charger on the road.

u/Exist50 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this, maybe?

I'm not entirely sure if the plug would fit.

u/nathan118 · 6 pointsr/hometheater

Custom made out of plywood. Exhaust on that Sony is in that front corner, so I put two fans, buy I'm actually only using one. I left a small gap along too back for intake.

Using this to automatically turn on.

And then the noctua plugs into this.

And then I found a good temp for it to turn on, and it balances out nicely and keeps temps from skyrocketing, and even runs til it cools down and shuts off.

Lined it with carpet, and overall noise is good. Never hear it. That being said, I'm weird, and I could hear it in quiet scenes, and then I'd START listening for it, ruining the movie, so I made the box. Most normal people don't have this problem. 😆

u/undeaddog42 · -1 pointsr/lightingdesign

When I was doing research for a similar type of strip light (color changing neopixels) 12 V was definitely overkill. I used 5V 2A similar to the one I linked. Worked well for my project.

u/JohnCulter · 1 pointr/macbookpro

I'm using with my 15" MBP - Satechi 75W Dual Type-C PD, and it's amazing.


Photos :


This one is also the option :

But it is way to big.

u/LeinahtanWC · 1 pointr/watercooling

That looks exactly what I am looking for.Now to see if I can find it on a website like Amazon or Newegg

Found it:

Now that I am reading this, this isn't going to be short on the power output is it? I have this:

I ask because I hear the W_Pump+ header is a 3A header for DDC pumps, and this thing is saying "Up to 2A".

Its also not the same model as the one you linked. So I can keep looking.

u/t3duard0 · 2 pointsr/vaporents

Alright, so here's the heater, And here's the power supply I'm using. I can pull my setup apart and show you how it's wored when I get off work if you want. For the switch you can go to your local hardware store, you want a switch rated for 12v 10a DC. Automotive switches work well.

u/n0esc · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Usually called a barrel or coaxial plug. Somewhere on the label or in the manual it should tell you what voltage and amperage you'll need.

Something like this MAY work, but you need to know the voltage and amperage needed first to make sure that replacement cord will be enough.

What game console is it? Someone can generally tell you what you need with that info.

u/howudoon · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Okay this is the one that Amazon said is "frequently bought" with the IH module and it says 6 A, do you think it would be adequate or should I just get a 10 A? Im trying to keep the build as inexpensive as possible

u/gabek333 · 1 pointr/onebag

I'm heading out to SEA in a few days, and now I am ready to go. Thoughts always appreciated. I included links to all my gear.


u/IanPPK · 1 pointr/homelab

I didn't have good luck with mine (sounded like a capacitor couldn't hold charge, but I didn't open it up), but others have had their noise issues fixed with a three prong NEMA power brick, like so:

u/Affliction_Sequence · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I can tell you from personal experience that the Flirc case is legit! I use it with an OC'ed pi @ 1350\525 and have yet to see temps rise above 60c! The catch is though, instead of using the thermal pad they include with the case, I use a small copper shim with thermal paste on both sides interfacing the soc and case, respectively. It's solid too, not like those cheapy acrylic cases! Plus you won't have to deal with any annoying fan noise!

As far as a ps goes, I use this:

To answer you original question: No, using a 2.5a ps with an OC'ed pi will either work or it won't be able to supply enough juice causing oddities or crashes... it will not "burnout the components" as the pi has a polyfuse so you will pop that before anything else.

u/starmandan · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I personally wouldn't use it. Look for a simple regulated 12V power supply. Something like this should be adequate depending on the amp requirements of the scope.

u/limitz · 2 pointsr/watercooling

> Most people don't want to buy a second PSU just for powering a loop.

You don't have to buy a full PSU though. You can find a PSU with a molex head for powering the loop on Amazon, $12.

Really helps when filling/flushing the loop.

u/James-Lerch · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

I grabbed both the wide angle and the long range versions of this, Love them. I look at my camera monitors then out the window on a moonless night and it is somewhat freaky to see pitch black out the window but see a black and white daylight brightness level thru the cameras.

Narrow / Long range version
Wide angle / short range version
Power packs

u/CptnKickass · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

Materials I had to buy:

u/ChuckEye · 2 pointsr/Guitar

> Since it arrived, i've been trying to find a power supply that fits it, but I can't find one.

That's unusual. 9v jacks are fairly standardized…

Current draw is minimal, so you don't have to sweat that. 9VDC center-negative is the most common adapter there is, and there are a lot of options on Amazon. First one that pops up is a Planet Waves for 9 bucks. That should work just fine for you.

u/GoingOffRoading · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi


I'm using one of these:

Should I add a capacitor or something to help even out surges or etc? Bigger power supply?

u/Clownbaby212 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used mounted a

I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.

This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts

u/flying_alt · 1 pointr/flying

i just followed the examples in the adafruit neopixel library for the python side. The PHP is pretty self explanatory if you piddle around with PHP any.

i used these LEDs

A Raspberry Pi

this power supply to power the Pi and the LEDs

Heres the code

its just some PHP to scrape the metar and convert to flight condition and then some python to talk to the LEDs.

Schematics is plug the green wire from the LEDs to GPIO pin 18 on the R Pi.

I used a diode between power and the LED power as well. Cant remember why but I saw it one of the docs.

I run a cron every 15 minutes on the pi to run the PHP script and update the colors.

u/vomitHatSteve · 3 pointsr/CircuitBending

I usually just recycle an old DC power adapter. The math is really easy. Count the A* batteries and multiply by 1.5 to get voltage.

If you wanna be really fancy, get a bunch of these:

u/Super-X2 · 0 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

No that's not it. It's definitely caused by unplugging it from the PSC, I ran a multitude of tests to verify.

I get this error sometimes, but it has never caused any real issues, I just let windows do the check and it has never had any problems.

The best thing you can do is let it sit for at least 10 seconds after the orange light comes on. I don't unplug the cable, never have. I have always used one of these and I much prefer it over unplugging the damn thing every time.

u/nicedogfaggot · 3 pointsr/Vive

I use two of these when I bring my Vive places since the original power cables are in the wall:

They work fine.

u/Karitas_Savva · 0 pointsr/Guitar

If the pedals new it should come with one, if not you can pick them up on online/in alot of of shops :)


u/2_4_16_256 · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

Just get a 12V power supply instead of trying to drop a 19V power supply down.

I believe that you would need a 3.33Ω resistor that is capable of dissipating 2.1 watts.

The formulas you need are Power (P)= Current (I) Voltage (V) and V = I Resistance (R). I've gotten used to calling them the Russians PIV and VIR

Edit: I agree with the other poster, the relay isn't needed since there is a switch in the system already and the extra battery could be removed. The relay is just an electrically magnetically operated switch

u/Liquidretro · 2 pointsr/litecoinmining


I bought one of these a few weeks back to power 1 gridseed. At the time it was a prime item and about $8 works great

u/XC-3730C · 1 pointr/crtgaming

I just bought this on Amazon:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply)

I hope it will suit my needs without power issues since it had an on/off switch.

u/y0y0ma · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Usually people do recommend getting a more powerful power supply (~ 5A) instead of the default 2A one that comes with the Lepai amp. You could try getting it replaced and see if that fixes the problem, though.

u/noorbeast · 1 pointr/oculus

I have not used the power supply and consider you likely need more amps.

Another option are the LP168S amps I use in my lounge, they have 2x40w bass output:

And take a common 12V power convertor like this, you may even have some of these around as they are common for many 12V devices: