(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best ac adapters

I think you are underestimating what you could do with that budget and that build.

First, some modifications:

pc-kombo recommendation

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 | EUR 222,60 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | MSI B150M Bazzoka | EUR 79,05 @ Cyberport
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (8 GB) | EUR 49,13 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU (256 GB) | EUR 83,19 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 970 | EUR 326,95 @ Amazon.de
Case | Fractal Core 2500 | EUR 57,83 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Be quiet! L8-CM (430 W) | EUR 61,80 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €880.55
| Generated by pc-kombo 18.01.2016 |

> Do I need an extra sound card?

No, the onboard sound of todays motherboards is fine

> Do I need an extra network card?

No, they all include Gigabit ethernet.

> What do I have to look out for? I already included a Motherboard with an LGA1151 slot, so that I can upgrade to a potential Skylake CPU in the future.

But the i5-6400 is already a skylake cpu. What do you want to upgrade to? I switched it out with an i5-6500, because that is only a tiny bit more expensive but with a 500MHz higher base clock quite a bit faster, but for games especially that is a perfectly fine cpu. You can go to an i7 and gain a bit in Fallout 4 and in minimal FPS scores, but that's it. The i5 will drive all current games fine.

> How about the GPU? Is it fine?

The GTX 960 would already be fine for current games on medium to High, and if you want to save money you can go with that. But the GTX 970 is in your budget and will drive newer games better, on better settings.

> Keep in mind that I might upgrade in the near future, so I might change the Mobo and get another 960 for a 2 way SLI, or something like that, so I figured I'd get a stronger PSU.

That is what I wanted to point out: There is no point in going SLI and further upgrading this build (besides, you would need a Z170 mainboard specifically supporting SLI for that). From what you've described, this build will do all you want and more.

I dropped the cpu cooler, the stock one is quiet and fine for a non-overclocking build. 8 GB Ram is enough for current games, and the ram can be upgraded without a problem later when that changes. The Sandisk SSD is slower, in practice it does not matter much, but the price of the Samsung is close enough that the upgrade seems fine. The psu does not leave a great buffer, but is absolutely in line for that build, as the i5 does not eat much and also the gpu does not need that much (plus, that is a good psu).

Hiya,

ok so ive put together a bunch of amazon link of what you need (US amazon as im in the UK)

Raspberry PI B+:

http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-512MB-Computer/dp/B00LPESRUK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167372&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+b%2B


Case:

http://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Protective-Cover-Screw-Raspberry/dp/B01AVT9IWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167372&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=raspberry+pi+b%2B&psc=1


Snes Style USB Controller:

http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Windows-Purple/dp/B016MEFRFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167421&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+sneshttp://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Windows-Purple/dp/B016MEFRFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167421&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+snes


HDMI Cable:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00870ZHCQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


MicroUSB Power Supply:

http://www.amazon.com/NorthPada%C2%AE-Charger-Raspberry-Android-Samsung/dp/B00OY7HR1U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167495&sr=8-4&keywords=micro+usb+2a

8GB SD Card:

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDUN-008G-G46-Newest-Version/dp/B00M55BS5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167735&sr=8-2&keywords=8gb+sd

SDHC Card Reader:

http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Information-Card-Reader-TS-RDF5K/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458167758&sr=8-1&keywords=sdhc+reader


All together that comes to $75 and will play games from the Atari, NES, SNES, Master System, Genesis, Gameboy etc. If you buy that SD card then I have an 8Gb image file already put together for it with over 4000 games that I could put up for you to download, you then just write it to the SD card, pop it in the Pi and plug it in, it will auto boot to a nice menu controlled by the control pad, select your game and play, then just press "Start + Select" to go back to the menu to select another game/system. It's very easy to use as all the hard work of aquiring the games and artwork has already been done.

You can get the more powerful Pi 2 or 3 and a bigger MicroSD to have more roms but that pushes the price up and will need more work to setup.

I have aspergers and my wife is type one so I understand some of the difficulties your son faces, I hope you can use this to help make him happy. My sister has an autistic son also and I put together one of these and he loves it, she got him to write a one sentence review and score out of 10 for each game. It became something they could do together and talk about, and also helped to convince him to do things liek help with cleaning his room etc so that he could do "one more review before bed" as she thinks it important to always push him that little bit to give him the best chances later on in life.

Anyway, here is a video showing the system in use so you can see what you think:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDWebx6D2Zc

Also with the addition of another SD card, usb keyboard and mouse and it also works as a computer with web browsing and programming tools for kids (Scratch).

Hope this helps, let us know if you want the 8Gb SD card image uploaded for you to download (not to be re-distributed though)

Regards

DJH

Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).

Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.

You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.

Pros:

• Cheap base cost
  
• Low power
  
• Very hands off after initial setup
  
• CEC! Use your TV remote to control Kodi
  
• Hardware decoding for h264
  
• As it is full-fledged computer you can easily add in additional software such as emulators, a web browser, etc.
  
• More of a DIY solution (may be a con)
  
  Cons:
  
  
• A few plugins (typically they are Windows dependent) and more computationally intensive skins may not work
  
• May get pricey if you need to buy all the separate components
  
• Can not handle 10-bit x264 (aka Hi10p; rare outside of anime fansubs) or HEVC (aka h265) files.
  
• No 4K output, max resolution is 1920x1200
  
• More of a DIY solution (may be a pro)
  

Take a look at the recommended games list.

In terms of games I would recommend to everyone there is Super Mario 3D World, and Mario Kart 8. In my opinion they are the must have games for the console. Smash Bros should also be out before Christmas, and that's sure to be a great game as well. More party friendly games (that will require Wii remotes) are Wii Party U and Nitendo Land.

Accessories will depend on what games you want to play and if you had a Wii or not. For most Wii U games, the Wii remote + nunchuck combination works very well (Wonderful 101, ZombiU are the exceptions I know of). For a full picture of what all the controllers work with, take a look at this infographic.

Something to know for the New Mario/Luigi U games is that you will need an extra controller for every player that wants to control a character. Unfortunately, when playing with multiple people, the gamepad is always relegated to placing blocks the other characters can jump on in this game. For other games, you can use the gamepad to control at least one main player.

Personally, my favorite accessory so far has been this charging station. It makes sure, the controllers we need for 2 players on any game are always charged.

Let me know if I left you with unaswered questions!

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There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> So I have this harddrive enclosure, but I'm missing the power cable. On newegg the specifications are "Dual 12V & 5V DC Adaptor". However, I'm not sure what exactly I need to achieve that. Will a universal power cable work? For example: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501625510&sr=8-3&keywords=12V+%26+5V+DC+power+supply

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl17ooz

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> I use auto replay mode, so i can automatically save something i did, but how i can turn off the push to talk mode so it would be continious?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl19m1a

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> In shadowplay I use auto replay mode, so i can automatically save something i did, but how i can turn off the push to talk mode so it would be continious?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl19mp0

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> Hi. I am attempting to build the Annihilator from last week, using an i5 and an ASUS TUF Z270 Mark 2.
>
> I got it up and running. While waiting for the graphics card to arrive, I tried to get an older GTX 970 running. It wasn't recognized by the system in BIOS or Windows.
>
> I tried to update the BIOS. This is where it all went to hell. I chose the most recent BIOS. The process started. I left the room. When I came back, the PC was off. When I turned it on, nothing. Blank screen.
>
> The ASUS TUF Z270 Mark 2 has something called Crash Free BIOS 3, where you insert the driver disc or a USB formatted to FAT32 with a previous BIOS. I tried both of these options and nothing. (There is a BD-ROM drive, and it accepts the disc and does something to it, but nothing happens). I tried several USB ports with the USB BIOS and nothing.
>
> I sent tech support to ASUS and they gave me back a useless answer that really didn't address what I said about the problem above.
>
> What can I do here? Any help is appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1db56

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> Is 1920-1950 MHz a good clock speed for a GTX 1080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1e7t9

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> hey everyone, looking for some suggestions for a external hardrive or sdd to connect to my phone. Main purpose is for putting anime,tv shows and movies on it to use with my phone when on long flights and traveling. Has to be small for carrying purposes and in Canadian currency please. Thanks!

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1ic86

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> How do you guys play games when you don't have anything in the desktop? Taskbar? Search bar? Rainmeter?
>
> And can you tell me how to take the stuff in the desktop?
>
> It does reduce lag right?
>
> Sorry for the stupid question I'm just really curious

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1nglh

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> Should I get the 1080 ti rog strix or the oc edition? I don't know the performance difference, anyone help?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl1o9ly

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> Which is the difference between the ASUS GTX 1070 DUAL and the ASUS GTX 1070 ROG? Is it just the extra fan?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6qwgrw/daily_simple_questions_thread_aug_01_2017/dl26fn6

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Well, usb 1.0 and 2.0 deliver max 500mA, and usb 3.0 delivers max 900mA. A quick google gives us 100-200mA for a fan, but thats at 12v. 12 times 150mA is 1.8 watts. Usb 2.0 can deliver 2.5 watts, so it wouldnt hurt the pc, it just wouldnt work. Id say go for a 12v wall adapter. Its the least likely to give you problems. Just not the one you posted, unless you want to solder the fans leads onto it. Go for something like this. Hope this overly long explenation helps 👌

First, no, this adapter won't work. It's North America to Continental Europe. We use a three prong adapter in the UK. Further, a "universal" adapter to UK costs like £5 in any hardware/discount shop.

But since you want to buy a nice gift, you want something more like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Ceptics-Hong-Kong-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MZD5T3E/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=US+to+UK&qid=1558403633&s=hi&sr=1-5

​

I hope your friend has a lovely trip here!

Thanks for posting

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Set up and use Vive (seated) with only 1 basestation? by 31d3dqdass12


I want to use the vive for Iracing (seated)

Some comments I found online say that you need 2 base stations to even start the setup process.

This is the plan.... get the hmd from a friend who is upgrading. buy a base station(https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1367576-REG/htc_99hafs002_00_vr_base_station.html) and a power adapter(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y).

Is this possible? Any disadvantages in doing this? Can I run initial setup and use the vive seated with only 1 lighthouse base station?

Any info is much appreciated.

	

	

	

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I entered 1300 as a budget and it came out with this

pc-kombo recommendation

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K | EUR 349,00 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 Anniversary | EUR 82,90 @ Cyberport
Memory | Kingston HX316 (8 GB) | EUR 42,32 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD10EZEX Blue (1 TB) | EUR 52,23 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU (256 GB) | EUR 75,97 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 980 | EUR 499,00 @ Amazon.de
Case | Fractal Design R5 | EUR 109,11 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Be quiet! L8-CM (430 W) | EUR 61,80 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1272.33
| Generated by pc-kombo 10.01.2016 |

This should acceptable i think. Upgraded graphics card and better CPU. I was looking onto getting more new game title since right now im only capable on playing these two low requirement games. I was thinking about games like GTA V or Witcher 3. I also want some higher graphics in WoW even in intensive Raids.
Maybe change the graphics card since i think its kinda overkill ( is it?)

I brought my laptop from America as well. On the power box, there should be a label that says something to the effect of "100-240V ~50-60Hz"

If it says both of those, you are fine. I would be very surprised if a laptop nowadays doesn't say that.

Also, I use these adapters for both my laptop and my phone charger and can recommend them. They are great because they fit inside the EU plug and are not problem with tripping over them or bumping them with furniture...https://www.amazon.com/American-European-Germany-Adapters-Certified/dp/B0058EG0KC/ref=sr_1_13?crid=30FBD9CJIWM60&keywords=eu+to+us+plug+adapter&qid=1556278168&s=gateway&sprefix=eu+to+us+p%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-13

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

thanks, very much appreciated. If you don't mind taking a look, does something like this look correct so far to wire this up to the home outlet and remote access?


Greenhouse motor ,will need to run two of these

• 24V
  
• 3.6amp
  
• 100 watt
  
  Power supply should probably be double the amp to run two of them?
  
  
  LED Power Supply Adapter 24V 10A - 240W AC/DC Power Adapter Transformer
  
  DPDT relay:
  10 amp DPDT relay
  
  wifi control:
  stinkbird temperature control wifi outlet ( I already own this)
  
  My assumption
  
  
• Connect power supply to the relay
  
• Connect wifi outlet to relay
  
• Connect relay to motor.
  
  toggling the wifi outlet on/off (by temperature or my phone app ) will flip the polarity at the relay(motor goes up or down)
  
  I'm unsure how the wifi outlet connects to the relay, can you just wire an appliance plug directly to the relay? The wifi outlet part would then not be behind any sort of power supply/converter if that makes sense.
  
  Also any recommendations on where/how to properly shop this hardware, for example maybe this "LED power supply" might not be exactly right.
  
  thanks, don't mean to hit you up with a huge message. I'm realizing now this is more an electronics topic.

I do a VR night at a local pub and have used the mounts I'll link below also. They do a great job. Also if you don't want to use your stock lighthouse electric adapters (I can't use mine because I have them ran under wire covers) these work great also. Just will need an extension cord.

Smatree Ajustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount 13.4" Gooseneck Extension for GoPro Hero 5/4/3+/3/2/1/Session / for Ricoh Theta S, M15 Cameras/ for Compact Cameras(1/4" thread) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B-pHybZNRWQJA

ALED LIGHT® 12 Volt 3 Amp LED Strip Light Power Adapter, AC to DC, 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug, Regulated 12v 3a Power Supply Wall Plug for LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_a1sWXNPht7UyF

On a quick glance, I seem to recall DC adapters and such. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-Adapter-Connector-External-100-240V/dp/B071V9CQ5H. Pluggin a case fan in directly would cause the rfans to run at full speed. You could also plug them all into a fan controller hub inbetween the power and the fans, thereby keeping things quiet. You can straighten up the wires and do a bit of cable management, and it could still look nice and such. Anyways, it sounds like it could end up being another design as an add-on.

Interesting ... I bought the power supply that you linked to, but my atomic pi is not stable on it .... It boots and runs for a while, but spontaneously reboots if you try to do something that requires a little more power, e.g. something that uses the GPU.

I then purchased this 8A power supply and my atomic pi is stable on it. This power supply also has the benefit that it comes with a barrel connector. You can take that barrel connector, screw it to two wires (preferably 22 AWG or thicker) and solder the wires to two sets of breakaway header pins, and you have a power connector. You can buy breakaway headers for about $5 sold by themselves, but I wound up buying this $13 kit that contains breakaway headers and a lot of other stuff that may be useful on other projects.

Read the label on your power supply.

If it says something like 110v-220v or 100v-230v or something similar, all you need is an adapter plug to fit your current cord into the new foreign wall socket.

Most modern electronics including CPAP machines are just as happy on 100v as 220v. Nothing is going to burn out and you don't need a "converter" (a device to convert 110 -> 220 or 200 -> 100) you just need an adapter so your plug fits the wall socket.

A converter actually changes 110 to 220 or 220 to 110. You do not need one and in fact shouldn't use one if your CPAP power supply is rated for the voltage you'll be using.

An adapter does nothing but make the plug fit the wall. This is what you actually need. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZD5T3E

Also if you regularly travel between the same places or have something against adapters, you can actually buy the right power cord for your power supply for each country, however it's usually a little more expensive than the adapter.

Thanks, this is very helpful. I think I'll go for something like this asssuming they're not lying about it being regulated, just for simplicity's sake and b/c I'll need a few of them. Even better, would 3.2v be too much? Reviewers are saying the voltage is 3.2v with or without a load for that adapter.

Also, How would I go about making a power supply that would work in series for 2 units? [unit][unit]{wall}

Do I just buy a 5v-6v adapter or will it not displace the current properly?

OK. Well, a real variable power supply will be very expensive. If you want to save money you would be better off buying a new supply every time you need a different voltage. If you want you could buy several in one package.

The reason for this is simply economics of scale. Millions of people will need a 10V power supply, so they are dirt cheap. Only a couple people need a variable supply, so even though it would be pretty cheap to make a million of them no one will do it since they can't sell a million of them.

Seven days in Heidelberg will probably be quite a lot, unless you have specific reasons for staying there for a week. I would consider switching up the days in Berlin versus Heidelberg, or even checking out some nearby cities between the two.

As far as what you need - it's always nice to have a dictionary so you can read signs. I always try to learn a few key phrases that I can say (or recognize) to locals. These are things like 'thank you,' 'excuse me,' 'please,' etc. If you have a smart phone, there are apps you can download that have offline dictionaries/translators so you don't have to carry around and flip through a book.

I can't remember exactly what mine is called, but you can do a search for "offline german-english translator." Along those lines, you can also download offline metro maps and city maps for your phone.

Along the same lines, you can get a sim card for your phone that works only in Germany, and not worry about an international roaming plan through your U.S. carrier. You may also be able to contact your carrier about giving you a certain number of international text messages for a set fee. That way you can text your travel partner if you get separated.

You will need an adapter if you are going to use any of your electronics. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/International-Travel-Grounded-Adapter-Plug/dp/B001ISR9B6 (although I'm skeptical as to why this one is only $3....)

Hey Knexfan0011, I read the amazon link for my Cablematters plug. I found this line " Optional AC Power (sold separately): Power Adapter with 5V/2A center positive 3.5 x 1.35mm barrel connector." Didn't you say that the plug was DC? Here is the amazon link. Does it matter if I buy a DC or AC plug? Thanks!

Edit: Will this work? Link

Kind of late to the party, but I'll leave this here.

A couple days ago my bunny chewed the gamepad's cable in places not meant to be chewed, so I was kinda forced to buy a charging station. Found this one on discount, and so far so good. It has two rechargable wiimote batteries, charges very fast, looks neat, rotates, has a pro controller dock and an on/off button. I also heard good things of the Energizer chargers, so it's up to your preferences/needs/budget.

Adapters will be needed, you can pick them up here although it will probably be cheaper if you buy them online before you travel, such as on amazon here. You'll just need to check the electronics you're wanting to plug in will accept 240V input. Most cell phones and cameras are fine with that but better safe than sorry.

You sure that transmitter battery is the one you got? It's not a standard lipo like most people get, it's a LiFe. Obviously it will work, I'm just making sure that you understand what you ordered.

Also, those zippy batteries you have might not have a high enough C rating. Most people that get a 250 size quad used the nano-tech 45-90c batteries since they can provide higher current to the motors.

I recommend having more than 1 velcro strap. 2 should be fine, but I wouldn't risk having only one. They're dirt cheap though so you should be fine with ordering one.

Your battery charger is fine, but keep in mind you need a power supply for it. You might have one from a pc laying around, or you can get one for like $15 on amazon (this is the one I use).

Aside from that, you need just a few small things to build your quad if you don't already have one. Zipties (or rapstraps), heat-shrink, braided wire (optional), osd... that kind of stuff.

I know Amazon sells universal charging cords with interchangeable plugs. I'm sure as long as it's a common plug you'll find it in the set of plugs they give you with something like this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=universal+charger&qid=1574025475&sprefix=universal+cha&sr=8-4

Just check the specs that should be listed on the brick of your existing charging cord to make sure you properly set the voltage on a universal one like I showed as they have an adjustable voltage.

As someone that moved here from America, this one is very nice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058EG0KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this one can also be good if you plan on traveling to other places:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JFRLV7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have both and both work good.

Happy to help!

This is the one I used for my 288 LED project, and it is holding up very well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4

Battery, Voltmeter, Wire, Pusher, Motors, MotorCover, Micro Switch, Charging Stuff, Charging Stuff, You're idea is pretty good, no comments on improvement.

Edit: Formatting

From what I know, he will probably be working on a hobbyist project. Do you have any particular company in mind for the power supply and cable? He already has the micro SD card.

http://www.amazon.com/Kootek%C2%AE-Supply-Charger-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00NL7WK2U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422173118&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+b%2B+high+quality+power+supply+and+cable

Do you think this is good?

Thank you for the help by the way. Appreciate it a lot!

Our power outlets look like this so I guess you'll have to buy one like this. Have fun!

Oh nice! Something like this?

I should have known products like this would be out there.

Back in the day, you could go to RadioShack and they would have adaptors and the would come with 1 too and you could try all the tips to find the right size. I don’t know what would approximate that today but you definitely would need a 12v + polarity adaptor and a barrel plug that will fit that. Also, there is a very slim chance that battery will still work. They were never great back then and with 20+ years I can’t imagine it working for more than a few mins.

Edit: maybe this one? SoulBay 12W Universal Multi Voltage AC/DC Adapter Switching Power Supply with 6 Selectable Adapter Plugs, Suitable for 3 V to 12 V Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISM267G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_beGnDb4NTG8ZZ

I just quickly typed 12 volt 3 amp adapter into Amazon, since it matches your pump. 5 amp will work, like he's saying it won't get as hot if you run it for a long time. I was just looking to make sure the female adapters fit there too. You literally have dozens of choices.

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Supply-Adapter-Converter-Regulator/dp/B00VA27NRK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501262464&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=12+volt+5+amp+adapter&psc=1

I think the convenience of a bundle and free 2 day shipping will make a lot of people overlook an increase in price.

And buying all these components separate its only looking at like a 6 dollar increase, for your 56 dollars are you buying the same things?

http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350224&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+2b

http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Case-Heat-Sinks/dp/B01188HGT0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350251&sr=8-5&keywords=raspberry+pi+canakit+case

http://www.amazon.com/Kootek%C2%AE-Supply-Charger-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00NL7WK2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350270&sr=8-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+ac+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSDQUAN-008G-G4A/dp/B00M55C0VU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350290&sr=8-1&keywords=8gb+micro+sd+card

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449350308&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+dongle

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-High-Speed-Cable-Supports/dp/B017TEUC66/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350332&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+cable


Thats 77 dollars. I'm sure you could find it for cheaper, but those are all comparable to whats actually in that kit (or exactly whats in that kit)

These types of power supplies are used for 3d printers and the like. It's totally safe if you wire it up without it plugged it. I know mains voltage scares people, but it's really very easy.

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Adapter-Converter-Charger/dp/B06XK2DDW4

Thanks for responding!

This is what I'm using. It seems pretty decent, would it qualify?

Moved my PiDrive over to my other unit which powers speakers in our bedroom and bathroom. Its simply a Pi 2 outfitted with a TL-WDN3200, HiFiBerry Amp+, WD PiDrive kit with its power lead plugged back into the Pi itself. I set the max_usb_current=1 config and it runs stable. The laptop power brick running the Amp+ has plenty of juice to keep everything going.

Rsync script scans 10,000 files from my main NAS in seconds and syncs at 8MBps.

Yes they would. Just make sure to match the band and channel from your VTX and your goggles. I recommend getting circular polarized antennas.

Also, you will need a charger for your LiPos:

• Power supply
  
  
• Charger

The advice you were given was far more complex than you need.

Simply buy a 3vdc wall wart for $5 including shipping. Cut off the plug, and strip the leads. Connect the positive lead to every positive wire to the LED letters, and the negative lead to all the negatives. You could get away with twisting them all together and then taping, but soldering would be best. You could also crimp, use a wire nut, or use Wago push-in connectors. BAM, you're done.

Want to have it be switchable? Repurpose one of the switches from your letters. Simply cut the positive lead from the wall wart, and splice the switch in there. Or, you know, just unplug it.

To use a freakin' USB power supply and buck converters is ludicrous. Cancel your order.

You are very welcome. Might I ask, what 'thing are you making? Why start your arduino career with this project?
.
Since you gave such nice feedback, I offer you are few more pieces of info.
My estimate of the current required is between 11.5A (5760.020) and 34.6A (5760.060)
These are based on the 20ma per LED or 60ma per LED on the link "Estimating Power Requirements".
The power required from the supply is between 511.5 = 57.5W and 534.6 = 173W
.
Here is an example supply midway between the extremes (this is an example, not a recommendation)
.
ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply Transformer Adapter Converter Charger for
WS2812B WS2811 WS2801 APA102 LED Strip Pixel Light
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Adapter-Converter-Charger/dp/B06XK2DDW4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PJCEWYTSNH8M848BVKQ8
.
I didn't check the links to see if they explained about wires, here's a link to wire gauges vs resistance
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
.
What wire gauge and length is important, because of voltage drop along the wire.
Keep the wires reasonably short between the power supply and the display.
When you are wiring the 5V and GND to the strips, I suggest adding 5V and GND to the beginning
and end of each of the 8 separate strips controlled by the OctoWS2811.

That's so awesome both that you were motivated to and were able to help your grandma!

Just a quick note about using a resistor to change voltage: You should not use a resistor divider to drop voltage with the intention of powering something else. The actual voltage at the "middle node" will change when the device starts drawing current. Probably the simplest solution would be to just buy a 3V wall wart.

Same amp you plan on using.


No the Milwaukee m12 tool batteries power it when the suns not out. I have a 24v power supply for when I want to plug into the wall but I don’t carry it with me.


Yes it’s completely portable.

Granted it weighs 28 pounds so it’s not something I would take walking with me.

Get some WD green 4tb drives, they are much faster than those stupid hitachi ones, especially when you put them in raid0. Also that PSU is way overpowered, the 900 series is very power efficient, you should be fine with this one

I got a 10a upgrade. The printer cannot fry itself. In fact, if it was designed correctly, it shouldn't be able to draw more power than the stock power supply, but giving it the availability to pull more amperage is only better. I wouldn't waste the money on 20 amps as that's way overkill.

Here's the supply I went with. The MiniDelta uses an odd sized barrel connector so if you go with this one you'll have to handle that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@ /u/killerdeathman

FYI, here is the adapter I'm using now:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NL7WK2U/ref=sr_rp_1?m=A3EC7BCY4V8OZM

So...I have the board booting. Yay. Had a few variables though, so not sure what did it. First is the new power supply, second is that I switched to using Android image "android_20160112.img". I did try booting with the new power supply and the other Android image, "sun50iw1p1_android_db1000_uart0_0216.img" and I don't think it was working. So my best guess is that the issue is the Android image...not 100% on that, but that's my working theory.

I want to use the vive for Iracing (seated)

Some comments I found online say that you need 2 base stations to even start the setup process.

This is the plan.... get the hmd from a friend who is upgrading. buy a base station(https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1367576-REG/htc_99hafs002_00_vr_base_station.html) and a power adapter(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y).

Is this possible? Any disadvantages in doing this? Can I run initial setup and use the vive seated with only 1 lighthouse base station?

Any info is much appreciated.

Build Question:

I'm going for an ITX Build. Just a small multimedia PC for the living room and a small emulation box.

So far I have:

Cooler Master Elite 130

Be Quiet Pure Power L8 430W


Intel Pentium 2 x 3,2GHz, Socket 1150, 3MB Cache

Geforce GTX 750Ti

HyperX Savage HX316C9SRK2 DDR3 2x8gb

Asrock B85M ITX

Western Digital Black 1TB, 7200 U/min SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5

Crucial SSD 120 gb, 2,5 ZollSATA III

LG DVD Drive

The things I am most concerned about are loudness, as this PC will be in the living room next to the TV, and temperature.

Can someone recommend a CPU-Cooler with great performance and a suitable size for this ITX build?
Is there anything else I can do/add/buy, to reduce temperature and loudness in this build?

I'm not sure how much help this is, but this charger holds one gamepad, one pro controller, and two wiimotes. I'm on my phone and have no idea how to properly link, but here:
http://amzn.com/B00BHISQMI

It's called the Wii U Quad Dock Revolution Charger. It's my favorite out of everything I've found and so far has worked out well for me in the short 2 months I've had it. Too expensive, but it's just an option.

I built mine using the following hardware:
- LED Light Strip (Black PCB 5m 30 ip65)

- WeMos D1 MIni (Flashed Tasmota on it)

- 5v 20A PSU

- Radar Motion Sensor

- Home Assistant

- MQTT Broker

​

With my setup, I keep my motion sensor and PSU on top of a microwave in a cabinet, such that it has clear view of a person entering kitchen. When someone enters our kitchen after sunset, LEDs turn on (and stay on while there's motion). When there's no motion, they turn off after X number of seconds.

​

I hope you find this useful and it gives you some ideas

Set this to 5V and use the plug that fits, call it a day.

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG

Edit: If none of the plugs fit, cut and strip the wires from the molex and use the terminal adapter. Top one pictured, green with screws. Make sure you know the polarity, a pin out of the Molex connector will help.

Yeah, all you need is something like this. Just needs to go from US to UK style plug. The Nintendo power supply already handles the proper voltage and frequency differences

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Hong-Kong-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MZD5T3E/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=uk+plug+converter&qid=1556031567&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I would say just buy a switching power supply off the internet for around $15 or less. They usually have all the protection built in and are easy to use.

Here’s a 5V 8A one but you could easily do with 6A.
8 A Power Adapter

Do you have a picture of the sticker on the bottom of the machine? Oftentimes they will say the power requirements.

If a normal headphone plug is too big for the charging jack, then it’s probably a 2.5 mm jack.

But the jack size isn’t the only thing you need to know. You also need the power requirements. If they are on the sticker on the bottom, we can find an appropriate charger. If not, here’s someone selling a somewhat expensive one.

Edit: I did a bit more research and found that the requirements are probably 7.5v and 900 mA. Here is a universal charger that has a 2.5mm jack and the option for 7.5v.

You may want to look a bit more yourself. Your requirements are:
-2.5mm phone/mono jack
-7.5v and at least 900mA (mA can be higher, 1000mA = 1 A)
-If you can’t find one with mA listed, make sure it is 7.5v and at least 8 watts.

I wasn’t able to find the polarity. So I don’t know if the tip or the sleeve should be positive or negative. That’s usually printed on the sticker requested as a little diagram. The tip is usually positive, and the sleeve is usually negative, but it would be impossible to know for sure without more info.

This was a super cheap build and the prices have changed since I made mine, nor is it the best but: Dayton pucks 16ohm - USB DAC 3.5 - Cheap amplifier - 12v Power Brick - 3.5mm to RCA cable - 16awg speaker wire

You'll also need some small wood screws to attach the pucks to the chair, zip ties, and a couple of wire nuts or you can solder the wires together. If your computer has a front headphone jack that can be its own output independent from the rear jack (like most Realtek onboard audio) you can omit the USB DAC.

You will want to wire up the pucks in PARALLEL (see example 3) so the amplifier only sees an 8ohm load.

I don't know about an amp for the Aura since I don't use them and you'd have issues running one amp for different powered transducers, they all need to have the same wattage

You don't need a voltage converter. You need a plug adapter, like this: https://www.amazon.com/American-European-Germany-Adapters-Certified/dp/B0058EG0KC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=eu+plug+adapter&qid=1554718218&s=gateway&sr=8-7


The cable in the powerbrick is non-removable, yes, but it is possible to change it out ;)

You're correct, I misread the link.

Those 1/8" jacks are heavily current-limited though meaning the supplied 5v from the connector probably won't be able to serve as VCC. This schematic is actually for the board Sparkfun sells. It's designed to run off a 9v battery but any voltage would work as long as you tweaked the value of R4 to achieve the right collector voltage.

If using this schematic, a regular old power supply might be worth considering.

You think I have time to be your link slave???

Just kidding, here are all the links from under the youtube video. Also will be useful for the future if this video ever goes down:

> Library I'm using: https://github.com/2dom/PxMatrix
>
> Live Stream link : https://youtu.be/espfESarDkc
>
> YouTube Stats display Code: https://github.com/witnessmenow/LED-M...
>
> Parts:
>
> RGB LED Matrix 64 x 32 P3 (The one I'm using)
> - Amazon.co.uk https://amzn.to/2HyLRbD
> - Amazon.com https://amzn.to/2KmsJvl
> - Aliexpress http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/EMvjy3z
>
> 5v 8A laptop style PSU
> - Amazon.co.uk https://amzn.to/2JBauB2
> - Amazon.com https://amzn.to/2Ko5WiX (This one seems to come with the adapter for connecting to the cables)
> - Aliexpress http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/vzJ2rnE
>
> Wemos D1 Mini Clone: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/uzFUnIe
>
> Female-Female 20CM Dupont cable: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/eu3j2j6
>
> 10pcs 2.1mm Adapters (both sockets and plugs): http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/UbMvnmQ
>
>
> Other Platforms:
> Twitter: @witnessmenow - https://twitter.com/witnessmenow
> Twtich: BrianLough - https://twitch.tv/brianlough
> Instructables: witnessmenow - https://www.instructables.com/member/...
>
>
> My Tools & Kit:
>
> Ts-100 Soldering Iron
> - UK : http://amzn.to/2nlOF23
> - US : http://amzn.to/2jDcyxl
>
> Logitech C920 HD 1080p Pro webcam
> - UK: http://amzn.to/2pnxk9Z
> - US: http://amzn.to/2BsLMiF
>
> Blue Snowball USB Microphone
> - UK: http://amzn.to/2C0x4TH
> - US: http://amzn.to/2DEA85J
>
> Self Adjusting Wire Strippers
> - UK: http://amzn.to/2C0urkR
> - US: http://amzn.to/2BXQAh1

(FWIW I didn't manually place the > in each row, I did a regex replace in TextMate for: replace ^ (start of line) with >.)

I contacted the company and they said I could split as long as I get a 120w power supply. I plan to add a 4th (72") strip. I went with this 240w power supply and these splitters. Seems like more than enough, yes? Or is going bigger a problem?

Funny you should ask, TEC1 is exactly what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UQQ3Q2

Here's what I used to power it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW



However, you're going to want a powersupply with 100w for each plate you use. So for 2x, maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charging-Replacement-Console-Charger-Accessory/dp/B072PZMSNM

There are plenty of less pretty and component-exposed power supplies which will work well and be cheaper but may require some simple wiring.

For example: https://www.amazon.com/Best-Fit-Switch-Supply-Transformer/dp/B00WQP1B82

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Reversible-Polarity-Positive-Transformer/dp/B01LBX8D58/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5WPF3DEQD0KXGAXNTFH

Eh ya?

Edit: I noticed compared to your finger that adapter is huge. Is it old?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHISQMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This is the one I use. It works the same as the one Dopey32 mentioned (althought a little more expensive), but it has an additional slot for a Wii-U pro controller and you can rotate it on a turnstile. Comes with two rechargeable backings for the remotes that fit into the main charger.

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/

I found by searching 12v 10a power supply on Amazon

Okay, I've got one for you, and I rarely see any DJ ever do this. You might consider getting a spare power supply (power cord / AC adapter) for your controller. AC to DJ power supplies do fail, and since it is not an easy to find item, if it goes out the day of your gig, you are screwed.

For my Denon MC7000, I can order the adapter online through Denon for $30. That way I am 100% positive that it will have the right voltage, amperage, tip size, etc. and is guaranteed to work.

Or you could just get off Amazon a universal one with switchable voltages and tips. The one I linked should have enough amperage to run a controller (the Denon takes 4000MA, and that one is up to 1 amp. Just be sure when you get it that the tip fits, and that you are using the correct voltage, tip polarity, etc. I can help you with this if you need - PM me.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Reversible-Polarity-Positive-Transformer/dp/B01LBX8D58/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541990166&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=9v+1a+center+positive&psc=1

This should do it for you. Set it to 9v and put the proper tip on it and you will be good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541990342&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=variable+voltage+acdc+adapter

This will do, providing your elliptical takes one of the included tips. Set it to 9v and you're good to go.

Battery Charger Recommendation

• Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer Charger LiPo LiFe NiMh NiCd JST-XH = $39.90
  
  
• T-Power Ac Dc adapter for Turnigy Accucel 6 Lipo A123 NiMH NiCd Replacement switching power supply cord charger = $13.99
  
  
  or search the web for better pricing.
  
  
  Making lipos safe and dealing with failures
  
  
  
  Hobby King also caries them.
  
  
  
  Battery Charging System Overview

3V converter:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00ODL140M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493223709&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+to+3v

AC to DC car converter:
https://www.amazon.com/AOKII-Converter-110-220V-Cigarette-Household/dp/B01H4UZQRA/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493223837&sr=1-4&keywords=ac+to+12v+dc+power+adapter

and 12V plug + wires:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Button-Cigarette-Lighter-Black/dp/B0090149R0/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493223892&sr=1-4&keywords=12v+plug

of course you can combine all 3 into one with something like this but that's what I had around the house
https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Suitable/dp/B01ISM267G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493223964&sr=8-3&keywords=ac+to+3v+dc

Here's some of what I used for this project if it helps anyone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L8W9SP3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTEJBG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK2DDW4

This will allow your PSU to turn on without a mobo.
https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-24-Pin-Supply-Jumper-Bridge/dp/B01N8Q0TOE
A lesser known but significant issue is that you don't want to mix and match cables from different power supply brands and sometimes even different power supplies of the same brand, it could possibly fry your HDD. These cables can be tough to find and order separately, so I just use a power splitter extension instead.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086OGN9E/
Some other things below for fans that I used for mine, but you might already have stuff laying around. You'll also need a molex to 4 pin or you could opt for a fan power supply to wall outlet, only if you don't overload the 2A.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NPZ94N/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0763FGH6S/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ42KMV/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V9CQ5H/
You'll also need to buy 2x SSFF port for the R5 box and your main, plus extra SFF-8088 cables (1m-2m length), this starts $$$ adding up fast unless you can place both devices very close and snake the SFF-8087 forward breakout cables through the R5 case then through the main system case to the HBA unless you have a card with external 8087s. I haven't seen any SFF-8087 forward breakout cables longer than 3.3ft though and you'll probably have these both connected internally so these boxes will have to be right next to each other...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
I didnt search extensively, but I did see a SFF-8088 to sata 6ft cable, but it had no reviews and the title showed 8087(maybe so it gets noticed on search results), but the description was correct as 8088. Depending on your card then this might be an option. This is where nas boxes come in with network connections for farther distances or you invest in all these cables and adaptors so it doesn't look janky with cables snaking in and out of the cases.

Eventually I want to power it through the arduino, but the tutorial recommends it's own power supply. This is what I bought and the jack is too small.

What you are looking for is a universal wall charger, like this ONE.

It's just a 9V barrel plug thingy, almost every universal AC/DC adapter will work. just something like this

I was all ready to post this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520274686&sr=8-2&keywords=variable+dc+power+supply&dpID=51UOyUkeeqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch then I saw it says 16V.

Why doesn’t anyone use breadboard (Arduino) wires, 3 red and 3 black and put them in a barrel jack that has screw headers? It should be easy to find a high current 5v power supply with a barrel jack.

universal barrel jack

breadboard (Arduino) wires

power supply for reference

Don't bother with active converters or new cables, all of the power adapters are multi-voltage and only require a travel adapter each. Just buy a few decent quality US to Euro pin adapters.

Like these: https://www.amazon.com/American-European-Germany-Adapters-Certified/dp/B0058EG0KC

any 5v power supply. the plug is determined by the voltage. so this one will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-External-Power-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416605471&sr=8-1&keywords=5v+power+supply

If you have this kind, you should be able to use it, as long as you can plug the two skinny prongs into it. The grounded (round) part doesn't really do anything, it doesn't have to plug.

I have a few of these, they work fine in both the UK and Europe, although they are bulky. This is another of the same.

If you are not going to the UK, just Europe, these are nice.

Do you think going up to a 10A adapter would solve the issue?

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Converter-Regulator-Flexible/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=110-220V+AC+to+12v+dc+10a&qid=1571288200&s=electronics&sr=1-10

I bought one for my trip to South Korea on Amazon.com last year. It was the VCT VP-109 Universal Travel Grounded Plug Adapter. Simple and cheap. It worked fine.

You need a USA/continental European plug adaptor, the UK has different plug sockets again. this will do you fine. You may also need a step down converter here for your 240v gear.

Haven't seen or touched this model, but this is the site you found yourself, probably

Doesn't say anything about being a smart charger and the specs say:

>Output 29.4V 1.0A

So most likely an 30V 1A charger will work. Only question that remains is what plug it has. I guess it's a standard 4mm?

Anyway, P = V*I, so a 30W universal charger should probably also work. Something like this.

All that's left then is to figure out which pole should be positive and which negative (screw that up and it will probably short out either the board or the adapter or both). It's probably positive inside and negative outside, but any Blink lite owner with an adapter could verify that for you with a multimeter.

Ya something like this, but take those specs and poke around you should be able to get an adapter cheaper than the one I just linked.

*edit: And the cheapest I've ever seen the RPi2 is $48 without the 8gb microsd, so I'd consider this a decent deal.

I use an adjustable power supply I got off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N7RS0NG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

You need to get an active USB 3.0 cable. It needs to be powered. If you have to long of a USB extension that isn't a powered active cable then you will get very bad performance.

This is what I use. [Cable Matters 3.0 extender](Cable Matters Active USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFFL2W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

I use it with this [power supply](JINHEZO Premium External Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ODHJFM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

For the bottom fan you would need a controller + power supply. So find a controller with the least amount of available connections (cheapest) and a power supply (power adapter) that would connect to it. So this + this. The controller is overpriced imo (because it's noctua lol) but it does what you're looking for and looks cool...

Try something like this https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N7RS0NG&pd_rd_r=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&pd_rd_w=I88Fv&pd_rd_wg=fMZ8r&psc=1&refRID=Z7S0FB64TPV36BEEEMW7&dpID=51UOyUkeeqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


Or just look at old unused power blocks for other electronics to find one that is 12v and minimum 1.8 amp output, the amps could be higher and stilll work but has to b 12v

I've been eyeing this one for a while. It has decent reviews, and it's 2A.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NL7WK2U

ALED LIGHT® 12 Volt 3 Amp LED Strip Light Power Adapter, AC to DC, 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug, Regulated 12v 3a Power Supply Wall Plug for LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ex3YxbZRW02H0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y

How would this work out?

LEDs

Controller

PSU

https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/d3fge7/200tb_bare_metal_budget_running_stablebit/?

Anymore advise? https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Converter-Regulator-Flexible/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3S5INB9JVZA2H&keywords=12v+120w+power+supply&qid=1568325765&s=electronics&sprefix=12v+120w%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-3 Would this work?

I use a 5V 8A brick with a USB adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RZBL8X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jhT4CbEGWSWDQ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GQFVMBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pjT4CbQAAKZFM

ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply Transformer Adapter Converter Charger for WS2812B WS2811 WS2801 APA102 LED Strip Pixel Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.fn3CbQNSC460

That should work for all 4 boards.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWZ1DN3/
EDIT - Maybe not that, but this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058EG0KC/

Would this not work?

ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4/

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-External-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449071148&sr=1-1&keywords=5+volt+power+adapter

First off, one of these:

I bought this one from reddit recommendation. The cable is really short though, so you may need an extension cord or adapter cable.

Did you ever find one? They are seemingly impossible to find with the right size tip. I was thinking about ordering this one, but would rather have the correct OEM one. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Transformer-Reversible-Positive-Negative/dp/B01LBX8D58

I'm using this one for a 'seated setup'(moving one lighthouse), the cord is a little short, but it meets the specs.

I am using these - same reason as you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SSU92Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078RZBL8X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525901106&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=5v+8a+power+supply&psc=1

This. I figured if each servo is drawing a max of 1A, then 8A should be enough

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506451136&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+27w

This would get you very close, it's slightly under powered. Do you have the specs on what the adapter is powering?

This one would also work, but it could supply too much amperage if the device is shorting or having other electrical issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506451264&sr=1-1&keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+3a

Edit: Either way, you could replace the end with the one from your adapter if they do not fit, assuming you know how to crimp or preferably solder and shrink tube.

9V with the center pin negative. They sell universal DC adapters with different connectors on them. You'd need to measure the diameter with some calipers to get the exact one.

So I have this harddrive enclosure, but I'm missing the power cable. On newegg the specifications are "Dual 12V & 5V DC Adaptor". However, I'm not sure what exactly I need to achieve that. Will a universal power cable work? For example: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501625510&sr=8-3&keywords=12V+%26+5V+DC+power+supply

> 1) Is my keyboard now fucked? It wasnt cheap so this is not ideal

probably, if it doesn't work on another device

>2) Is the KVM now fucked? Should I not plug it in? Again, not cheap

Might be, you should plug it in with the proper adapter though.

>3) How do I prevent this happening again, and test it without killing my machine?

By using adapters suitable for the device you're using. If it says 5V get a 5V adapter. You could get one of the universal ones with tons of endpoints and setable voltage (like this one) but personally I don't trust them.