(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best adhesive tapes

We found 971 Reddit comments discussing the best adhesive tapes. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 411 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

21. Real Professional Premium Grade Gaffer Tape by Gaffer Power - Made in The USA - White 2 Inch X 30 Yards - Heavy Duty Gaffer's Tape - Non-Reflective - Multipurpose - Better Than Duct Tape

    Features:
  • THE GAFFER POWER BRAND IS PREMIUM GRADE, PROFESSIONAL GAFFER TAPE – our tape is made specifically for the industry professional. Many gaffer tapes are imported and low quality grade. Not Ours. GAFFER POWER IS MADE IN THE USA and we’re proud to say it’s the highest quality on the market.
  • SERVING THE INDUSTRY PROFESSIONAL for decades; Film and TV Shoots, Studio filming, Theatre/Stage Production, Automotive industry, Sports Productions, Churches, Film Schools, Broadcasting Classes, Box-Sealing, Lighting & Audio/Visual Technicians, Photography, Floor Marking, holding down wires to podiums, Musical Gear, Microphones/Guitar Cables, Straps, Drums, Drum Sticks, Mixing Boards and Consoles
  • PERFECT FOR LABELING - our white professional tape is ideal for markers and labeling your equipment. It stays securely on what it’s applied to but easily comes off without leaving a sticky residue. MANY HOUSEHOLD USES; secure computer or lamp cables, great for yard work, hockey sticks, window drafts, wall cracks, bug holes, you name it, Gaffer Power can do it. BETTER THAN DUCT TAPE, GAFFER POWER uses a synthetic rubber adhesive that leaves no residue when pulled off.
  • MANY HOUSEHOLD USES; secure computer or lamp cables, great for yard work, hockey sticks, window drafts, wall cracks, bug holes, you name it, Gaffer Power can do it. BETTER THAN DUCT TAPE, GAFFER POWER uses a synthetic rubber adhesive that leaves no residue when pulled off.
  • PREMIUM GRADE TAPE OR YOUR MONEY BACK. We are so confident that our Premium, American made Gaffer tape will exceed your expectations that we are offering you a full money back guarantee if you aren’t 100 percent satisfied. Order with total peace of mind. **Save on multiples, See savings below*
Real Professional Premium Grade Gaffer Tape by Gaffer Power - Made in The USA - White 2 Inch X 30 Yards - Heavy Duty Gaffer's Tape - Non-Reflective - Multipurpose - Better Than Duct Tape
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height2 Inches
Length4.5 Inches
Size2 Inches x 30 Yards
Weight0.6 Pounds
Width4.5 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

26. Insulation Tape PVC Electrical 19mm x 20m Black x 1

Insulation Tape PVC electrical 19mm x 20m BlackDiamond Packaging
Insulation Tape PVC Electrical 19mm x 20m Black x 1
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.7874 Inches
Length0.74803 Inches
Number of items1
Size1 - pack
Weight0.13 Pounds
Width0.7874 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

27. TradeGear Electrical Tape ASSORTED MATTE Rainbow Colors – 10 Pk Waterproof, Flame Retardant, Strong Rubber Based Adhesive, UL Listed – Rated for Max. 600V and 80oC Use –Measures 60’ x 3/4" x 0.07"

    Features:
  • HIGHEST QUALITY PVC ELECTRIC TAPE: Each electric tape in this 10 Pack is made from heavy-duty, industrial-grade PVC and is flame retardant, resistant to acids, alkalis, UV, oil, abrasion, and moisture. They have a sticky rubber resin that offers superior adhesive qualities and is UL certified too.
  • PERFECT FOR ALL KINDS OF ELECTRICAL WIRING: Whether you are a professional electrician, engineer, or a DIY’er, this electrical tape is just what you need. It is ideal for all wiring projects and repairs including spliced wires, cable insulation, wire bundling, and more. It is the best all-around household PVC tape.
  • 600V, 80 DEGREES MAX RATING: TradeGear’s flame retardant PVC electrical tape is rated for a maximum of 600 Volt operating voltage, and 80 °C (176 °F) operating temperature. This is well within most domestic and industrial ranges, making it completely safe for all uses.
  • EXCELLENT VALUE FOR MONEY: Every purchase you make gets you a pack of 10 multi-colored electrical tapes. Each tape measures 60 feet by ¾ inches and is 7 mm thick. Each pack includes a Black, Red, White, Green, Gray, Purple, Orange, Yellow, Brown, Blue tape.
TradeGear Electrical Tape ASSORTED MATTE Rainbow Colors – 10 Pk Waterproof, Flame Retardant, Strong Rubber Based Adhesive, UL Listed – Rated for Max. 600V and 80oC Use –Measures 60’ x 3/4" x 0.07"
Specs:
ColorMulticolored
Height2.52 Inches
Length7.91 Inches
Weight0.2 pounds
Width2.8 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

36. S.O.L. Survive Outdoors Longer Duct Tape, 2" x 50" 2 Count

    Features:
  • Two easily packable 2" x 50" rolls.
  • Nothing is impossible with duct tape.
  • Industrial strength for any repair job.
S.O.L. Survive Outdoors Longer Duct Tape, 2" x 50" 2 Count
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height1.574803148 Inches
Length2.362204722 Inches
Number of items1
SizeOne Size
Weight0.0661386786 Pounds
Width1.968503935 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

37. 3M 8979N Performance Plus Nuclear Duct Tape, Red 48mm Wide x 54.8M Long

    Features:
  • 3M
3M 8979N Performance Plus Nuclear Duct Tape, Red 48mm Wide x 54.8M Long
Specs:
ColorRed
Height8.33 Inches
Length20.46 Inches
Number of items1
Size$$$
Weight1.8 Pounds
Width13.76 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on adhesive tapes

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where adhesive tapes are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 132
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 32
Number of comments: 8
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 18
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Adhesive Tapes:

u/_Franz_Kafka_ · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Do you have a picture (peferably inside and out), and have you been able to locate the specific location of the leaks? Is there rust on the metal side of the seam?

If no significant rust, this stuff is great for sealing leaks. You want the non-leveling type as the leveling kind is for use on a flat surface like a roof.

If the seam gap is big, first plug it with butyl tape then the non-sag sealant.

If the whole seam around the perimeter of the roof is leaking, I'd first clean it really well (one of the most critical parts of effectively applying sealant), then pack a thin line of butyl in there, then seal it off with the non-sag sealant. Treating only from the exterior should fix it, but if you have direct access to the seam from the inside, a bead of sealant there too won't hurt you.

I've done basically that process a couple times to seal rv leaks, and it works very well. Gotta have super clean surfaces, though. Worth buying a bottle of alcohol and going over it with that before applying butyl/sealant just to be sure, once you've cleaned/scraped any crud off.

Kudos for not using silicone; you'd be in a world of hurt if you'd done that.

Edit to add: I agree with u/crockett5 in the Q&A thread, we need photos and to know if there are any holes in the fiberglass and/or metal and what the seam looks like to find the best fix. Do NOT plug metal or fiberglass holes with butyl/sealant. They are for seams only, and while it might solve your problem in the short term, you'll probably be in a world of hurt a few months down the line

Also, post stalked you, and from the far away shots, it kinda looks like there might be a black rubber strip around the seam? Is that true?

u/Other_Western · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Yep! Permanently mounted on the roof. Get the panels up there, position them, mark out where the feet go. Then clip the wires together, clean off those spots nice and clean with alcohol to get off any oils, and tape 'em down.

Here's the tape; https://www.amazon.com/3M-4950-WI15-Scotch-Tape/dp/B00CC14L96

They use this stuff to hold windows onto the faces of skyscrapers. It's legit. The only caveat is to not apply it when it's cold, if it's below 60 or so it doesn't set correctly. But as long as you clean the surface and mount 'em when it's warm out, it works really well. I have 4 panels on top of my promaster, and they've been through 50+ mile an hour crosswinds while going 75+ and a few journeys across the country.

Then route the wires from the panels into the van. Most people go through the roof. There are a lot of ways to do it. The simplest is to just drill a hole, file down the edges, stick the wires through, and then douse it with silicone. Not the neatest but it gets the job done just fine.

Those wires go to the solar controller, which you'll have mounted near your batteries.


As for the rest of things:

I recommend getting a normal minifridge. They work just fine, they're quite efficient normally, and they're way cheaper than anything designed for a van specifically.

Any inverter over 1000w should be fine. I'd recommend just going for a proper, full-sine inverter. GoPower makes a full-sine inverter for 1500w that should suite all your needs with room to grow as you add batteries/panels in the future. They're just more efficient and some electronics don't work right with a modified sine power source.

Then, you can just run a extension cord from the inverter, and a fridge etc off that. Or, take that extension cord and wire up some proper outlets off it (pretty easy, if you have walls solid enough to mount an outlet on).

I did a mixture of ac/dc wiring, and I think it was a pointless complication. A pure sine inverter is already 95% efficient, and if you wire everything off the inverter you can skip a lot of fuses (since the inverter will shut off if there's a short.

Lots of advice! Just what worked for me. I'm a huge nerd about building shit so as I said, feel free to hit me up

u/DevB1ker · 1 pointr/Corsair

That's certainly one option. There are a TON of ways that you could do it. 2-way splitters would work too - that'll reduce the number of Commander Pros (CoPros) and make management easier. Depending on your fan configuration, you may also want to consider something like this Silverstone PWM Fan hub - it has its own power supply and allows you to control 8 fans as one. I have used one of these with a CoPro and it worked just fine.For lighting control - you'll need fan hubs; there's no way around that. The multipacks of the HDs come with a Fan Hub and a push-button controller - not a Lighting Node Pro (NoPro). That may drive you to get a second CoPro (for the additional lighting channels) or get some strips (they come with the NoPro). How you configure them is going to revolve around how you want the effects to work. For example - it sounds like you'll have 16 fans on the front, right? That's 3 fan hubs, minimum. But let's think about that ... each radiator will have 4 in front and 4 in back. That gives you 4 logical groups of 4 fans each. So that you can have a super-cool light show, you might well want to use 4 fan hubs with 4 fans each. Then, you can use a Fan Hub Splitter to sync the 2 hubs in the front with each other and the 2 hubs in the back with each other.

Like this: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjLE3OnL_l3klfRGb1xdGQAUsh7xsQ

That would give you 4 channels and control over 16 fans from a single Commander Pro. Now, that's just the front panel but on the 1000D, that's the real beastie.

Some other tips - I used a label maker to label each fan hub and NoPro in my system (I have 3 Fan Hubs and 2 NoPros). I find it super helpful. Second - I use colored electrical tape to mark the fans. I'll put one little piece on an unobtrusive part of the fan and then wrap each end (both the RGB and the fan speed) with a piece of the same color. Again, super-helpful.

EDIT: Here's a link to the multicolor electrical tape that I bought. For the number of fans that you'll have, you might use 2 colors for some of the fans.

u/voucher420 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You can buy a wire harness these days.

Race versions won't include provisions for turn signals, a stereo, or, a legit accessory position; that won't power the full pump and ignition system, especially important if you run a points style ignition (cause you're not only draining the battery a hair quicker, but now you risk burning up your points).

As for making your own, that's going to depend on your application.

Boats will need a power and a ground wire ran for all accessories. You can reduce the ground wire count by using a distribution block. Power will be run to a switch from the battery, to a fuse block, then to the device, then to the distribution block, back to the battery, completing the circuit. A large fuse, circuit breaker, or a cut off switch is recommended.

For a car, things get a little more complicated. You generally want a clutch/neutral safety cut off switch, reverse lights, brake lights, and more. It gets more complicated because the brakes are powered full time along with the lights, but your signal lights aren't. This can cause back feed issues when the lights are on and you signal or brake. Diodes are one option, multiple bulbs/dual filament bulbs are another. High draw circuits are controlled by relays so you can use smaller switches and less fuses. The circuits are usually completed to a chassis ground. Ensure all your ground connections are free from paint and rust.

The best place to get a good visual is your local library. Check out ohms law to get an idea on how thick of a wire you'll need so you don't burn your car down or run an extra 200 pounds of wire.

If you have the old harness, it's a lot easier. Take it out complete. Lay it down on a few 4*8 sheets of board. Unwrap all the conduit and connect the dots. Automotive connectors are usually unique, so they only fit that one plug on the car. The exception to that rules is for light bulbs, though the socket around the bulb might be different.

Good luck. LPT: Don't pull the electric tape to break it, cut it off clean without stretching it so it's less likely to unravel. Use high heat conduit under the hood to protect wires. Wire loom tape is ideal for wrapping multiple wires and is a way better option than electric tape.

u/Xuis · 3 pointsr/EDC

You sir, have nailed exactly what I am shooting for in my EDC setup, I feel my congratulations is not enough to express how proud you must feel. Beautifully done. If you come across anything that is not matte black enough, I find that Gaffer's Tape fixes it up quite nicely. Imagine Duct Tape without the residue.

I have been considering a G-Shock like the one in the photograph, but I can't bring myself to purchase it in the stead of my already functional Target-bought Timex.

I have a similar load-out, but as you can see, I'm not nearly as color schemed. I wish i could do a better photo, but my camera cellular-telephone is currently the best camera I own. I plan to get a better photograph in the future.

Finally, do you think that your flashlight was a good buy?

u/thefrettinghand · 3 pointsr/Bass

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

  • The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  • A decent multi-tool
  • Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  • Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  • Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  • A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  • A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  • Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  • A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  • Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  • Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  • Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  • A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  • Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  • A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc

    Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.
u/ghettosorcerer · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#


Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#


Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.


'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

u/Mehrune_dagon · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Absolutely on windows. Works really well on the original bus windows. I always recommend resealing the original windows. This stuff is like 7 bucks for 30 ft on Amazon. The windows is a place where you can prevent air from creeping in, Atleast through the mounts. I also recommend it for aftermarket windows as well. Really recommend it for anything that you need to seal. It's great stuff.

Edit: here is the link
Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W5MlDbBND9RNN

u/CheeZuShRicE · 3 pointsr/oculus

I think an RMA would be on the cards rather than the glue. Or theres always http://imgur.com/a/vyxZCpG

EDIT that wasnt overly helpful first off nightmare on busting it sorry for your loss, if you go down the DAS route this might help:


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EFPKMH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 pop socket for battery on DAS.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D4DZXW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1.5ins Dring

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CNWVKUQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (nice stuff, soft for loop around Dring)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JJPPNHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ( 2ins rather than 1 but worked well for main DAS mount, just cut it to rough shape stuck it on then went round on a cutting mat with a craft knife, feels super strong do not feel the need for wrapping more velro)

DAS
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/htc-vive-deluxe-audio-strap-99hamr002-00-vr-005-hc.html

Battery
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HBTY3Z2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 90 Degree USB C Type C Male to Female Adapter, Right & Left 90 Degree USB-C 3.1 Type-C Male to Female Extension Adapter for Laptop & Tablet & Mobile Phone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RP5LQQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_orfoDbAKMKDWV

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Type-C 2.0 Cable | 0.3 m, Dark Grey https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CWH4ZB9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ksfoDb38GDD61

Guide:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OculusQuest/comments/btbf0g/how_to_do_the_frankenquest_mod_vive_das_quest/

More pics http://imgur.com/a/SvsNS84

Good luck hope it gets fixed up.

u/moxiousmissy · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I love duct tape but can't TREAT MY-SELF to this super awesome roll...because I have so many already >.> I just want to make ALL of thing things!! It can be found on my handy-dandy Add-ons WL

dat dewy duchovny

Thanks for the contest <3

u/bosslickspittle · 2 pointsr/Amd

I put some plastic tape over the top of it and it mostly did the trick. I bought this from Target and used 4 layers of blue, with four layers of white stacked on top of each other and cut down to a small square. It didn't end up completely covering it, but it dulls the brightness quite a bit! That plus a huge H7 cooler pretty much get rid of it haha! Here's a photo of my results! I wish I had thought to take a picture before changing the cooler!!

u/ManualNarwhal · 3 pointsr/paintball

Get yourself some fun duck tape like this

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Crafting-1-88-Inch-5-Yard-284035/dp/B00F4HJH4O/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1469104600&sr=8-8&keywords=duck+tape

Put a piece on your box. BAM, everyone knows it's not theirs. If you don't wanna do that, bring a sharpie with you.

Eventually, get yourself a caddy like this

https://www.amazon.com/GxG-GXG-Paintball-Hauler-Clear/dp/B00381BR3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469104690&sr=8-1&keywords=paintball+caddy

Makes refilling your pods sooooo much easier. Definitely worth the money. These hold about 1000 balls.

Even at sketch fields I've never had a problem with people trying to steal paint. But make friends with the people around you, talk to them, and help each other keep an eye on your paint. Never leave your gear alone though.

u/digitalm3 · 2 pointsr/CR10

Ask away, we learn “safely” by asking questions 😀

It’s hard to say, thermistors are very tricky to attach because you have to make sure it’s placed correctly and that the wires don’t short on each other or the block or the screw. They’re relatively inexpensive and good to have extras on hand. you’ll know fairly quickly if its not working just Test before reassembling, wear protection they get super hot super fast.

This is another advantage with the E3D hot end. They use a canister type thermistor which is 100x easier to mount. There are E3D knock offs that are way cheaper but I haven’t found any that use this thermistor.

Your heat cartridge looks perfectly fine..

I realize you might be asking about the kapton tape they used to cover the wires. I’m not sure it’s required, certainly doesn’t hurt 😀

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZFNB2I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521905792&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

u/Cigajk · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, I've been trying to mod pair of t50rp myself so for past few days I was reading about modding t50rp and doing my research.


How well you mod t50rp depends on ability of modder and no 2 mods will be the same.



Anyway, short representation of mods:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgccbW6BXJY


As you can see it's very simple. However there are tons of mods and everyone of them is slightly different... So here is ultimate wiki giving you everything need about modding t50rp:


http://www.head-fi.org/a/fostex-t50rp-modification-summary-links-wiki


Now you might ask, can you fuck up modding t50rp?


Like with anything, yes but if you be careful and follow the most basic mods then there will be no harm done. All of the mods on the video are reversible.



Are there any cons? Well for one you will have to take t50rp like 20 times apart to see if you like any specific mods. Secondly the end product will be difficult to drive from your average laptop, so amp might be best if you want to get 100% of them. (The base goes away with several mods if you don't have the t50rp amped.)


My advice to you? Read everything about t50rp modding and do as it's on the video with few possible changes ( adjusting depending on your own tastes )

Do everything on the video but:

  1. Cotton/amount of it or whether to include it at all. Most go with cotton, I would too.


  2. Covering t50rp vent ports, some cover all of it others leave it open and some cover it half way through. I came to conclusion ( from what I 've read) that overing all of it except 2 lines is enough.


  3. Transpore tape, person on the video used 2 layers, I would recommend 1.


  4. Modelling clay, some people like punching holes in it with screw driver.



    Now summary of materials you may need:


    Acoustic foam paxmate/silverstone: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-PAX-2-Paxmate-PLUS-full/dp/B000OGX548


    Transpore tape: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Transpore-Tape-2-5cm-x-9-1m-Cheapest-on-Ebay-/331325272161?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Medical_Supplies_Disposables_ET&var=&hash=item4d24867061


    Earpads (Makes hugeee difference from stock ones): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads-Black-Velour/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1420724959&sr=8-18&keywords=earpads

    or


    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-Cushions-HPAEC840-Shure-Headphones/dp/B00A8MLJ50/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420724995&sr=8-2&keywords=shure+840


    Electrical tape: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Tape-Electrical-19mm-Black/dp/B004CSC4W8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420725009&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+tape


    Non drying clay: not sure which one myself but you get the goal.


    100% Cotton balls: again, not sure which product exactly. Go to your local store for one.


    Some other links:

    http://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1lfnsi/fostex_t50rp_dbv3_full_build_diy_w_instructions/


    http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/diy-headphone-measurement-contest-winners
u/Try-it-then-Riot · 1 pointr/gaming

Haha well you guys are all right. Not a 3m rep, but I have to admire there vast world of adhesive patents. Just like u/Catsilo said though VHB tape is intense. 3m markets it as an alternative to welding for some applications. Here is an alright deal on some

u/MotelWorm · 1 pointr/phonerepair

I won't lie... Cheap Amazon Prime accessible tape.
The two names are as follows;

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Eco-Fused Microfiber Cleaning Cloth (black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I know they're cheap, but how much should I spend/what should I search for when I purchase? Computers are my hobby, but I work in kitchens and bake bread full time... Soooo, I'm pretty good with my hands. Application is not the issue here.

u/SmellsLikeNostrils · 1 pointr/EDC

Like this.


The two parts are held together with VHB tape. More than strong enough.

The clips is a Nite Ize universal smartphone clip which comes with a strip of VHB.

The rest is pretty obvious.

EDIT: I bought a clear VHB, for other uses. For this, I think a softer, foam core VHB might work better. The edges aren't flat, and don't rest flat against each other. It still works tho.

u/abc_altima_og · 1 pointr/SuperNissans

The cheap cam was not worth the $30 i paid for it. I got a refund and upgraded to the Roav S1 for $89. Amazing cam! Does everything a dash cam should do, and more. Been solid for the past ~2 weeks that i have had it. I mounted it in the same spot since it's a wedge cam. Going to install one in the wife's car too.

https://www.amazon.com/Dashcam-Dashboard-Resolution-Nighthawk-Wide-Angle/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=roav+s1&link_code=qs&qid=1554945355&s=gateway&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

​

r/Dashcam has a popular competitor, the Viofo A119 V2. Seems like a solid cam and i almost went for it, but i didn't want the cost to go over $100 and the roav included a 32gb card. https://www.amazon.com/VIOFO-Compact-A119-Optional-included/dp/B01M28B92C

​

BTW, all these cams come with either suction cups or double sided sticky tape. I prefer black velcro so it's a bit hidden with the black and i can easily remove the cam when needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPPNHM/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/randatola · 1 pointr/BBQ

On my Big Green Egg I used a Rutland gasket and adhered it with Permatex ultra copper. This is a popular combination in Big Green Egg land. Many use 3m Super 77 spray adhesive instead of the Permatex.

The BGE is ceramic, not metal, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. As with sticking anything to any surface, the most important thing is that the surface is clean.

u/andersanity · 2 pointsr/Hue

Highly recommend. I've been using this clear variant https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWRO/ for all of my hue mounting needs and have been very satisfied. It comes in various widths as well, but this one is perfect for light strips.

u/RollWave_ · 1 pointr/Vive

>...They are up against white trim...any temporary-ish solutions on sticking the cable to the door trim?

www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

White colored gaffer's tape. If you aren't familiar with the product, it's basically duct tape, but does NOT leave behind sticky residue when you remove it.

color matching for now, easy removal and clean up later

u/Narwahl_Whisperer · 1 pointr/prius

I would try some heavy duty mounting tape like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-width-length/dp/B007Y7H56E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

​

Though you may want to try your luck at a hardware store. Looks like amazon has a bunch of re-rolled 3M tape and it's not as good.

u/Nordicaaron · 4 pointsr/EDH

I use these boxes with color identity appropriate
Electric Tape which fit PERFECTLY (like it was designed intentionally) in this box from Lowe's

u/beth6han · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Since I am not sure exactly what tape you have I cannot say if you should use it. The tape that is generally suggested, and what is used by reputable vendors is 3M VHB Tape It is #5952 Heavy Duty Mounting Tape -Scotch Brand. The VHB stands for Very High Bond.

You can go ahead and use the tape that you have at hand, just make sure that the windshield is clean and dry, and that it is warmed up by the heater. Press and hold the bracket for a few moments and then leave it alone for at least an hour before you attach the dashcam. It needs time to 'cure'.

If you want to keep some 3M VHB tape at home to be used for other projects, you can find lots of it on Amazon, here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1493975056&sr=8-48&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape

u/iregret · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

I would deal with it by buying a second hand replacement fender. Shouldn't cost too much.

If you truly don't care what it looks like, go to home depot, or lowes and get a small sheet of aluminum and some shears. A piece large enough to cover he gash.

Order this tape:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC14L96/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Cut the aluminum to roughly the size you need to cover the gash. Feel free to beat on it with a hammer and sorta form it to your car.

Lift up your shaped piece and install that tape. Line it up and stick it down. That take is shocking how well it sticks.

u/pputkowski · 2 pointsr/supermoto

Thanks! iPhoneX... taillight is attached via 3M VHB double-sided tape - this stuff is amazing! Same stuff GoPro uses for their sticky mounts if that tells you anything.

u/Silverfoxk · 3 pointsr/mazda3

It holds pretty strong I got some vhb tape from Amazon 3M VHB Heavy Duty Mounting Tape... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0016HM7SE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/contactee · 1 pointr/fixit

I know everybody is saying give up, but I bet if you flipped it over, temporarily superglue it back together (just to keep it in the original position), then wrap it REALLY well with this; www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Repair-Tape-Wrap-Waterproof/dp/B009WSDWUG. it would hold.

u/VolkswagenNerd · 2 pointsr/subaru

Nice write up. But I have a few suggestions.

Instead of electrical tape you should use actual loom tape next time, the electrical tape will start to degrade over time.
http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-High-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y

Generally using a relay, like in the diagram linked below will increase your light output and make your setup safer as the load isn't being carried by the switch.
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/reading/relay-diagram.gif

Also, you should look into this type of connector for the battery end. You can slip it on under the nut on the battery connector and then use the screw to secure the power wire for your lights.
http://www.amazon.com/Panduit-ML8-CY-Barrel-Straight-Tongue/dp/B00B5P3KT2/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1414773726&sr=8-49&keywords=post+and+tap+connector

u/micro_cam · 3 pointsr/MTB

I'm pretty sure kapton tape is what spank and maybe a few other rim makers are selling as tubeless tape. It is working well for me so far.

u/HppyWfeHppyLfe · 1 pointr/biggreenegg

No issues with probe wires. You need about 9 feet for and xl, but the 7 foot kit will work for a large. I recommend the permatex ultra copper rtv to install.

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yyvTAbN709VEY

If you have a good hardware store, they sometimes sell it by the foot from a big roll.

http://www.nakedwhiz.com/rutlandgasket/gasket.htm

u/cjb64 · 3 pointsr/ems

2-inch by 50-inch duct tape. It's a small roll and I decided to start packing it every shift I go on because of the time I ripped my pants on a cardiac arrest. My partner had a small roll of duct tape and thankfully I was able to tape my crotch up so we could get the patient into the ER without me embarrassing myself.

Here's a link to a Amazon source for the tape, if you're interested. I normally buy from NAR but this tape is just as good, same price basically too.

u/DiskoVilante · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks for mentioning gaffers tape. What kind of gaffers tape did you use? I don't know much about tapes and 3D printing. Would this work?
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Tape/dp/B00LMNYFHI/

Thanks!

u/Guazzabuglio · 7 pointsr/Homebrewing

I try to recommend this whenever I see a keezer build since it has helped me so much. For what it's worth, if you have a hard time remembering which keg goes to which regulator and faucet, you can use multi colored electrical tape to color code things.

Also, nice setup. I really dig the sign and the tap handles too.

u/theredwoodcurtain · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Colored electrical tape is easy, usually comes in multicolored packs, like this

u/smoochara · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Repair-Tape-Wrap-Waterproof/dp/B009WSDWUG

I fixed my headset in the past after breaking it off at exact same spot. Worked longer than I cared to own that headset and was way stronger than the unbroken side (mine was plastic)

u/K_M_A_2k · 1 pointr/homelab

the stuff i used was like [THIS] (https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494126814&sr=1-3&keywords=double+sided+industrial+tape) except mine was black. I lucked out my work had a bunch of it & just gave me about 5' which was way more than enough

u/two2teps · 3 pointsr/geocaching

In my standard kit my tools would be:

u/LiterallyUnlimited · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7
u/spaghettiThunderbalt · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

This would be your best bet, though be warned I have no experience with that site.

There also this stuff, which is pretty similar. Only real difference is the adhesive (and the color, of course), which is designed to not leave any residue after removal for 6+ months.

u/silverjenn · 1 pointr/beyondthebump

We bought this and it has stayed flawlessly on the bottles for 5 months and counting! I highly recommend it.

Eta, Sharpie will come off very quickly (which I found counterintuitive)!

u/jmdbcool · 14 pointsr/AskReddit

Eh... you probably can't, actually. This roll on Amazon isn't a bad deal. (Currently $17.34 with Amazon Prime / free s.saver shipping available.) It's going to be a fair bit more expensive than duct tape.

If you want to look for a local supplier, they might have it at the hardware store (although half the time, they've never heard of it), but also try calling places that deal in pro A/V equipment-- pro photography/camera shops or music stores (think Guitar Center) often carry it.

u/l2k-Spec-Ops_X · 1 pointr/homelab

TapeCase 0.5 in width x 15 ft Length, Converted from 3M VHB
$14.02 Each, used 3 rolls for $42.06
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7H56E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Roxul Rockboard 60, Mineral Wool Board 2" - Case of 6
$52 - Ended up using 4 of 6 boards
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FKNVTQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Sonic Barrier 1" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24"
$13.25 - Used it all

Total: $112 (If you have amazon prime and get them all with free shipping)

u/DetroitAdventureDog · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Allow me to introduce you to 3M VHB tape

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Black/dp/B0016HM7SE

We use this stuff to hold aluminum panels to the sides of buildings! For when you REALLY want something to stay put!

u/CaptainKernel · 2 pointsr/DIY

I've had success with this stuff.

u/xc0z · 13 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Though you're right, it's still not the right stuff to use. You want Wire loom Cloth Tape. It's the shit they use from the factory on wire harnesses.

https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y

u/fishpuddle · 4 pointsr/Survival

It should be mentioned that if it's not used in a certain period of time, mixed with body heat, the adhesive will probably leach out and/or attract pocket fuzz. That will ruin your trendy skinny jeans.

If you want to carry handy rolls of duct tape, get something like this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Inches-Rolls/dp/B004H87UGS (Or 500" of SOL vs. 18" for $20+.)

If you want to carry duct tape with you, be sure to keep it in a small plastic zip lock bag or aluminum foil to avoid it contaminating things around it. You're more likely to use it in a pinch anyway rather than on a regular basis (repairs vs. helping somebody move) so it'll have time to leach out. You can get small bags from craft stores.

From personal experience with the SOL tape, it's come in very handy for various things and has lasted quite a while since you're less likely to use small amounts for frivolous things. In my daypack, I keep two tapes: duct and medical.

On a different note: my Great Uncle kept his guts from spilling out after a fight using duct tape after somebody slashed him across his belly in his bar.

u/tajmaballs · 0 pointsr/funny

TIL about gaffer's tape, now on my Amazon wish list. Haven't used it yet, but if it works as advertised I may be able to turn that "MMPH! MMPH!" into a "MM! MM!".

u/private_pants · 6 pointsr/rugbyunion

Hello there! I use lifting blocks when I jump, and what I have found works is foam pipe lagging , taped up really tight into a saussage with electrical tape. Then you want to tape them to your thighs with non-elasticated sports tape. (I use the 5cm stuff)

Position blocks, and with your knee straight tape it on around your thigh. 3 times around usually does it for me. I then like to secure it with electrical tape. I position them so the blocks are just below my compression shorts.

u/np20412 · 12 pointsr/Lexus

Get some 3M industrial strength VHB double sided tape and stick it on. It will never fall off again.

https://www.amazon.com/VHB-Adhesive-5952-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B00MAT2WZU

u/asdfkjsdfsafdasdfa · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Just use VHB tape on the fiberglass on top. No holes needed. It'll hold just fine. It's how most people install panels on metal roofs, as long as you clean the surface thoroughly it'll be cool.

Mine are mounted with this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CC14L96

Renogy panels, using their little mounting brackets. It comes out to about 16 square inches of tape per panel (4 inches per bracket). Each INCH of tape is rated for 140 pounds. Seriously. They use this shit to hold windows on to skyscrapers. I stuck an inch on a washer with an eyebolt onto some scrap metal, and couldn't deadlift it off with a proper handle.

I wasn't sure I was going to trust it, but then I put the first panel on and tried my damnedest to tear it back off, and couldn't. I was putting at least a few hundred pounds of tension on it, which is way more than the wind ever will at any speed, and it didn't twitch. This shit works, is what I'm saying. I trust it completely.

I'd at least buy it and give it a shot if I were you. If it doesn't seem solid (...just try and rip it off. the fiberglass will give out before the tape does, and the fiberglass is plenty strong) then add some screws and dicor, or put some fiberglass mat and epoxy over the feet of the brackets

u/bubblegoose · 2 pointsr/USNEWS

Makes sense, because the military probably gets good old EB Green or EB Red for $250 a roll.

u/jgagnon_in_FL · 11 pointsr/AskMen

(1) My Favorite Shampoo (you can get a push pump for another $10.

(2) Nuclear Red Duct Tape ($4 over budget), they use this stuff on Nuclear Submarines to fix stuff, albeit they get charged over $100 a roll for the same stuff.

u/Mwovie · 1 pointr/DiWHY

It looks like butyl tape to me. I use this stuff extensively in my line of work.

Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.H1SDbS7WX4RK

u/oldlegbone · 1 pointr/MTB

Kapton Tape - $13

Orange Seal 8oz - $14

Valve Stems - $15


MBR's Instructional Video

Additionally, you can change out kapton tape for something like gorilla tape for less money.

u/rambojenkins · 3 pointsr/Hue

Yes, it can be bent and attached to the back of a 60" TV -- but you will want to use something other than the tape that comes with it. It will fall off after a few weeks, if not days.

I had a roll of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016HM7SE/ , used around 1~ foot (cut into pieces) and it has stayed on the back of my tv for around 2 years now.

u/WesleyTheDog · 2 pointsr/MotoZPlay

I think it's adhered with a double sided tape like this

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IfqWAb3FXRBGH

Shouldn't be tough to the repair shop to fix.

If you want to try yourself you could blast the screen with a little heat (heat gun or hair dryer) and then hold the screen down until it cools down (wrap it in a towel after heating it up so you don't burn yourself). Don't heat it up too much or you could damage the LCD.

Edit: added diy option

u/Kaidenside · 1 pointr/Firefighting

https://www.amazon.com/FIBER-FIX-Adhesive-Automotive-Emergency/dp/B009WSDWUG

Good grip, durable, only downside is its semi-permanent

u/SaintBurt · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah that would be a problem. The stuff I'm using has a wax paper backing that you remove after laying the tape down. It's stretchy and a bit sticky, so handling it without any backing would be difficult. The one I bought is made by Dicor. Here is a link. It seems like there are a bunch of similar tapes on Amazon. You might want to take your keyboard apart before ordering to make sure you have at least 1/8" of empty space under the PCB. All my keyboards but one had room for a layer or two of tape.

u/djkrugger · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Tesa tape if you want it to look OEM.

u/Angstrom5 · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

For hiding the power cord, you could try white gaffer's tape: https://smile.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power/dp/B00LMNYFHI

It feels more like a fabric, so it won't shine like duct tape would. Also, gaffer's tape is stronger than masking tape, but shouldn't leave residue like duct tape might.

u/mattrbchi · 1 pointr/popping

Get these things Add the Hypafix over the duct tape using the liquid bandage as a hold. Reapply Hypafix every few days until day 6.

u/Astroloan · 1 pointr/TechShopDC

Was it this? Or am I thinking of something else?

https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-yds/dp/B006ZFNB2I

u/hdhova · 1 pointr/DIY

Fiber Fix might work

u/soyknee · 1 pointr/biggreenegg

Put a Rutland gasket on with permatex ultra copper rtv. You’ll never have to put another gasket on

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-DxDbD9RZRZZ

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l.DxDbSSQRWPR

u/RatherNerdy · 2 pointsr/MTB

You mean my $20 Fiber Fix won't work?

u/NParbs · 0 pointsr/mobilerepair

Scrape off all old adhesive and use 2mm redtape all around.

u/Bergie31 · 5 pointsr/marijuanaenthusiasts

For everyone worried about sun and rain, this would work: Nuclear Grade Duct Tape.

Product's description: "8979N provides clean removal with little or no sticky adhesive residue for up to 6 months. Sunlight/UV and Water Resistant. Lasts 1 year without degrading. Tape construction consists of high tensile cloth and aggressive adhesive."

u/redhotchiliguy · 1 pointr/television

Oh, so it isn't this, then. Ok

u/SketchPV · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Sorry about that. I didn’t know they made various kinds. Here’s an Amazon link where I got mine:

Tesa Wire Loom Tape

u/AmNotAnAtomicPlayboy · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

Do not use silicone. You will regret it later when it is time to re-seal your roof.

You will need to get on the roof and reseal the skylight, and, if it were my roof, I would go ahead and do the whole thing if it's needed. You can find plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do this.

Lap sealant can be bought on Amazon (Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant 4-pack), and I would recommend two other items as well; Butyl Tape for laying down as an extra barrier under the roof equipment, and a roll of Eternabond for emergency repair.

u/caraudiofabrication · 2 pointsr/CarAV

For wiring harnesses Im about to blow your mind:

Tesa Tape, use what the OEM's use.... No Brainer: http://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Black-High-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414157204&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape

Solder and Heat shrink for connections of course.