Reddit mentions: The best american patter files

• [Wilkinson] (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VS-100N_Tremolo.html) trem. Drill press would be ideal for the post holes, but you could also just clamp a guide to the body.
  
• LSR nut. Unless you have access to a router jig, I would suggest a rectangular file matching the LSR's dimensions to clean up and deepen the slot you're going to start with a super fine cut saw.
  
• Locking Tuners. Staggered, so no more string trees. Super stable tuning when paired with the Wilkinson and LSR, even after divebombs. Those "F" tuners have a super accurate 18:1 gear ratio. I also like that particular design because they're stabilized with a pair of incorporated pegs that slip into pre-drilled holes, instead of relying on a tiny little screw.
  
  I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
  
  EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.

For the fretboard scrape the heavy gunk off with a razor blade then wipe it down with naptha. Then you can spray a little guitar honey fingerboard oil on it if you like the look of darker fingerboards. You don't necessarily have to oil it, but I think it looks nice. Boiled linseed can be an alternative, but keep in mind it's a drying oil and will stay there.      

For the nut, a tusq but is a cheap and pretty much a drop in replacement. Bone nuts can get pretty expensive, and tusq is just as good if not better. There's precut fender style nuts for like $8.

If the frets are just a little tarnished, tape off the pickups with masking tape first. Then go 0000 steel wool->Dremel felt polishing pad with jewelers rouge->metal polish with a microfiber pad, then rub everything down with a dry part of the microfiber.

If they're totally messed up and divorced, uneven, etc then you can completely do the frets or take it to a shop. Level/crown/polish them. Regardless of the route you take I would probably file down any protruding frets that poke out past the fingerboard.

Anything perfectly level with some sandpaper to level frets, long granite scraps from companies who do countertops can be super cheap/free. You'll also need a sharpie, fret rocker, and straightedge. Make sure the straightedge is actually straight, cheap rulers generally aren't.


Any flat file for protruding frets. A small needle file with a safe edge ground on for dressing the ends after bevelling. For crowning use a triangular file with the corners ground smooth.  


Bevelling and protruding frets

Fret ends

Crowning

I listed cheap options to get started. You can always buy nicer ones. Stewmac, crimson guitars, LMI, and similar sell specialized ones for a pretty big markup.

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

OK, here's my experience, but in general, just go with what /u/bandit69 says if he shows up. He's the wise old man around these parts.(Although for all I know, "he" could be a 27 year old girl. I like to think of him as a wise old man in a rocking chair.)

Anyhow, back to why I'm here:

I made so many mistakes when I started out and one of those mistakes was being afraid of using wood finish because I thought I would mess it up. I used mineral oil for a while. Definitely don't do that unless you're making cutting boards.

There's a difference between wood stain and wood finish. Wood stain adds color. I've never used wood stain before.

Wood finish is what protects the wood from water/scratches/bumps and makes it look shiny (although you can buy matte finish that doesn't add shine at all). Wood finish will deepen the natural color of the wood (the way wood looks when it is wet).

There are a bunch of different kinds and after using a few, I've settled on clear shellac premixed in a can from Home Depot.

A lot of people use oil-based polyurethane, and it's a beautiful choice, it just takes a lot longer to dry than shellac and I am impatient.

Whether you're using poly or shellac, you'll want to brush on a coat, let it dry, lightly sand, and then repeat the process 3-4 times. It won't look good after just one coat. Being impatient, I don't like this process, but I do it because the results are so beautiful.

I have found that applying wood finish with a bristle brush (as opposed to a foam brush) produces better results.

For sanding in crevices, I use one of these. I have also used a nail file in the past.

Overall, wood finishing is not as complicated as it sounds and you can definitely do it.

No worries at all. Not only do you have your own life, you're on the opposite side of the world from me. I've really enjoyed this discussion - not only am I able to help you out, but you're curious about a subject I love. Basically a win/win for me. :)

I honestly couldn't tell you how many teeth snakes have. I've seen maybe 6? on Puppy.

Those pictures are actually a few months old. She's going to shed tonight or tomorrow, though.

--------------

I bought this pump and filter combination, and this bowl to use as the basin. I also purchased some PVC pipe (3/4" inner diameter I think, 1" outer diameter), a couple sheets of flagstone, some flexible tubing (5/8" inner diameter, 3/4" outer diameter - so it fits inside the PVC pipe), some large diameter black pipe for spacing out the rocks, some gravel, and assorted fittings for the PVC pipe.

I built the frame out of the PVC pipe - you can see it a bit in the picture. It's the white pipe. The frame is composed of a rectangular cube, with T-fittings around the bottom edge. Each of the Ts points inward. I then have a single fitting that takes in all four of the Ts and lets you send a central pipe straight up. The gravel is in the bottom of the bowl, and the frame sits on it.

Next up, I cut the flagstone. Flagstone breaks in straight lines, so all you have to do is get a chisel you don't care about, score the line that you want to cut, and then put the chisel in the score and smack it with a hammer. It will break along that line.

Next I used this 1" diamond core drill bit to cut holes in the center of each piece of flagstone. The holes wound up being slightly too small, so I used these diamond files to make them wide enough to fit the PVC pipe.

Then I put the stones onto the frame, using the black spacer pipes between them.

Now, in order to get the water to actually flow, I drilled a hole through the center pipe in the frame, below where the lowest piece of flagstone sits and fed the flexible tubing through that hole and up to the top of the waterfall. Then I hooked up the pump to the flexible tubing.

Last but not least, I got a lamp dimmer and connected the pump's power cord to it. So, I basically have an on/off switch for it. That's necessary because the waterfall splashes a bit. If I left it on all the time, it would soak the substrate.

All told, the waterfall took months of work and a lot of mistakes. The final product turned out well, though.

------

If you have the freezer space and your snake cooperates, f/t is the way to go. It's the cheapest and safest option.

I feed Puppy live, but that's because she's a very picky eater. She refuses to eat anything unless it's alive. I recently switched her from a species called African Soft Furs (bigger than mice, smaller than rats) to regular old rats, which she didn't like at all. The entire process took around 3 months of hard, moderately traumatizing work.

However, that's a very specific issue that happens with carpet pythons - they get fixated on a single food source and can refuse to switch. I doubt you'll have that sort of problem.

One more thing - usually you want to let your snake digest for 1 - 3 days after you feed them. If they are full and become very bothered, sometimes they will regurgitate their meal. That is definitely bad.

----------

Yeah, ideally the shed will be in one single piece. The shed is actually longer than your snake is however - as they are shedding, the skin stretches to let them get out.

What I'd suggest is looking at the skin initially. You should be able to see the eyecaps on the discarded skin, the tip of the tail, etc. If you do notice stuck shed, there are a few common approaches:

1. Soak them in a tub of reasonably temperatured water for like 15 - 30 minutes, then pull it off by hand.
   
2. Put them into a damp pillowcase for a while. The moisture will loosen the shed, and the pillowcase will give them enough friction to rub it off themselves.
   
   Shedding is hard work, so I usually feed them a large meal, let them rest for a few days, and then hang out with them. However, it's totally cool if you want to hang out with your snake immediately after a shed, as long as your snake isn't acting stressed.

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

I added an LSR to my partscaster project and I'll never have a strat without one ever again. With a good two post tremolo and locking tuners, it's as stable as any locking nut system I've ever tried. I don't understand why Fender only offers it on the HSS version of the deluxe.

I don't have the magic ears like some of the folks who'll tell you the metal nut "suks muh tonez". IMHO, unless you're playing 100% clean jazz type stuff, there's no discernable difference. And the trem comes back to tune even after EVH type abuse, but without the setup hassle or tuning change limitations of a Floyd Rose. Added bonus: worry free string gauge changes. The bearings accommodate 008" to .056" without you having to worry about modifying string slots. And if you want to go lighter gauge with traditional nuts, you sometimes have to replace the nut entirely.

For what it's worth, you can always change out the pups. Or just get a Standard and have an LSR put on it.

EDIT: If you attempt to do an LSR mod yourself, I highly recommend getting a proper file (flat square edges, the exact dimensions of the LSR). I learned the hard way. My neck only cost me $125, so I'm not too bummed about it, but my next one will look alot cleaner and have a much tighter fit. Best to clamp a makeshift jig to guide the file, right onto the neck and use calipers and a straight edge to check your depth and angle often.

You need to get to know the power of diamonds, my friend!

Carbide can be good. Honestly, rasping your item against hard cured concrete, especially if done in the first few days after casting while it's green (softer), might do the trick.

Things like these are great: https://smile.amazon.com/Toolocity-DHPSET-Diamond-Polishing-Stone/dp/B00MCL4NHG

But even something like this would work for a small piece: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XZI2LI/

I've found that eliminating layer lines isn't too important if you go down to .08mm; the big issue is that overhangs and drooping on fine details can be a killer that overshadows the smooth surfaces. A few tools I've found handy:

Get a good round scalpel handle and a pack of carbon steel 15C scalpel blades. They'll be your go-to for nicking out tiny little stray globs and trimming plastic. Way more precise and durable than X-Acto or hobby knives.

Then get a set of diamond mini-needle files — they'll be useful for smoothing rough spots. Diamond grit may seem like overkill for PLA, but the fine texture of the grit is what matters: it won't leave your models ragged and with care you can actually restore detail that's lost to droopy overhangs, etc.

Finally, get a sharp-edged "soldering pick" and use the needle files to sharpen it to a nice sharp edge. It'll be your go-to for levering out bits of support, and picking away at larger globs of plastic. If you ever find that the scalpel blade bends while you're trying to clean up a defect, go to the soldering pick.

This is what I used for files:

https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-and-Model-Files-Set/dp/B001AE7RRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498081654&sr=8-2

Not sure the grit, but they work great!

As for bits... What are you using to pin with? I started with Privateer Press models so I just got their pinning set. Comes with a bunch of metal to pin with and then 2 or 3 bits. Work great for me! It was one of these three, I forget the exact size I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=P3+Pinning+Expansion

As for getting more bits: I would just search Amazon for pin vice bit set or just pin vice set. That will be what you're looking for. I don't know of any place that would sell individual sets of small bits except for a specialty hardware store or a hobby store(Michaels, ACMoore, etc)

Yeah, returning it was my first suggestion. Oh well...

If you don't have a dremel, I agree that this is entirely fixable with a file or a small file set. Do you have a vise? That would make filing it much easier. If not, you can set it flat on a work surface (table) and put something heavy on top of it to hold it down and keep it from walking away while you're working on it.

Get a flat file, like this. You can use the edge of the file to "saw" into the material where you want it removed. Push with the file to make it cut.

Then clean up the rough edges with some 220 grit sandpaper and you're golden. 3mm steel will go super quick, easily less than 20 minutes for the whole job.

It does, however, look like the keyboard "foot" will overlap with the opening. It will be on the bottom, so as long as you don't care about that then no big deal.

Best bet is probably to pick up a needle file set. Something like this. I had some CNC wooden ones that I miscut, so I put one of my 1mm bits on a dremel and managed to clean them up well enough. For reference, the slots are about 1.3-1.5mm which is less than 1/16".

Er ... I don't know, sorry. (They don't seem to be stocked this side of the pond).

A quick look, probably a decent bet; but I'm kinda guessing.

I did spot http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-General-Purpose-Hand/dp/B000TDGHVY which might be a decent starter set, if you can cope with getting handles for them (or, even, one handle - you only push files, so you can, in theory, swap a handle over. That gets old really fast, however). It looks to cover the range I suggested (not exactly ... close enough), and appears to be good value.

Depending on how much filing you expect to do - you might be ok getting the cheapest files, and then moving up once they wear out; but I reckon that the cheapest ones won't last long filing steel. (If you were working anything softer (e.g. brass, aluminium) they're probably fine - but I'm assuming that's not the case here!)

(I note someone's downvoted my post above - you might want to hang on for a bit, in case someone disagrees, and wants to suggest something else as the first files to get).

Looks amazing, and I love the passion you are sharing with your posts. The only thing I would advise you to do is take a moment and look for mold lines, sprue attachment points, and gaps. I didn't see any mold lines, but they blend in with the plastic, but generally stand out once you paint. The sprue attachement point will also stand out. I bought a file set on amazon here that I find work amazingly. For gaps there is green stuff and milliputt for large gaps. There is liquid green stuff, but I have never bought a pot that wasn't dried out. Rather I learned from another mini painter that you can take milliputt, and make a small disk, and using an old brush and water make a liquid milliputt that can be used to paint in small gaps.

​

Go for the color scheme that most inspires you. It may be technically difficult to pull off, but you will learn with every iteration that you attempt. The worst that can happen is that you strip it and start over. Enjoy and keep the updates coming.

If you're planning om using only brushes, then you should look up Quick kits on youtube. He uses enamel paints which are better suited for brush painting to get Good results.

I use Diamond files, those small ones that you get at the hardware store. They never wear out and and are cheap in the Long term. Also very precise. You also want a filler, I'd recomend perfect plastic putty. Works wonders and is removable with water. Good for small cracks that is present in all models, due to bad engineering or user error.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-24621-Diamond-File-Set/dp/B006X1CFTO

Maybe start your hole with a forstner, do as much as you can with a smaller spade bit, then finish up with the original forstner. That's if you really need a flat-bottomed hole. If you're going all the way through, just start with the forstner so you get a clean start, then go the rest of the way with the spade. That's if you don't need a clean back hole. If you need a clean in and out, a forstner-spade-forstner sequence might do the trick. I think my forstners and spades that are the same size are actually enough different that you'd have to finish with the original forstner, either way.


Get a pack of diamond files.

Here's a quick how-to. You can use water as a lube when using diamonds.

I'll also note that a file can be much faster and easier than a knife in many situations.

A nice tapered round, Something like this can work wonders.

I also suggest a set of diamond files to file off the prints.

I got mine a week ago, and my prints look a lot better with some love.

I just started using files to shape wood this week and it surprised me how easy it is. Now, I am shaping larger pieces but I would imagine smaller rasps or files would really help out.

Maybe someone else can give more information, but below are a few examples.

Detail Rasp Set

Small files

https://www.eternaltools.com/blog/top-10-uses-for-diamond-files

Bought a cheap one on amazon: it cuts through steel like it's butter (in seconds) and polymers are like cardboard with that thing.
Mine is a replacement for an arc saw, though, something like the following should be enough (they have the same surface as mine, meaning, real industrial diamonds).
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-101I0-180mm-40-600-Diamond/dp/B00292IOAA

Also, if you don't know this yet, industrial diamonds are man made, artificially. They have no value as jewels, hence the lowest price ever.

goofy filing is difficult, and will take you quite a bit of practice to get good at it.

tips:

1. start at the back of the bevels (there are three that are simultaneously filed!) and rock forward ever so slightly, so you are filing the edge at the very last portion of your stroke. if you start out on the cutting edges of the bevels, your file will grab and you will take a lot more than you may desire to.
   
2. file with your bar in a vice, with your chain tensioned moreso than you would have while running it. chain brake ON. these things will help stabilize each cutting tooth while you swear and bleed all over your work bench.
   
3. always file in a place with good lighting.
   
4. double bevel files are better than tri-corner files. Triangle files like these, will not work. you can also try out goofy files, which are starting to grow on me. it makes a less aggressive profile, which can be preferable in some situations.
   
5. if you have some extra cash lying around, check out the ATOP jig. you can also modify a regular granberg chainsaw jig to work, but it isn't as consistent as the ATOP jig, IMO.
   
   
6. find someone to teach you, or at least find someone you can watch and observe. it is way, way different than filing with a round file, and you have to steadily maintain three bevel angles at the same time. doing it freehand will take a lot of practice!
   
7. you will fuck up some chains while learning. if you have some old round ground chains that are still square chisel, you can take a flat file to them, and file back the top plate to the 10^o to "reset" the chain for square chisel filing. trying to convert a round ground chain to square chisel chain (without doing this step), is extremely frustrating. you need the 'shelf' to help guide the file.
   
   here are some other resources:
   
   http://treefalling.com
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjAeRF0Vedc
   
   
   
   hope this helps! it took me a long time to get anywhere close to being able to free-hand. building the muscle memory to accurately push a file in that orientation is a long process for most.

I'd suggest staying away from a Dremel unless you're reeeeeaaaalllllyyyyy careful. Power tools can take off to much at a time if you slip up.

I would suggest getting some diamond needle files from Amazon (like $8 for the set) and using those. It will take longer but less chance of a massive oops

[Needle file link](SE 73810DF 10-Piece Mini Diamond Needle File Set, 150 Grit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019N6CV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gjm1BbT3WABEQ)

I did, it's very easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. I used this diamond needle file set I got off Amazon

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

​

A regular file - $8 (optional)

​

If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

Diamond files like these would work well. These come in handy more than you'd think.

I have this set, which is 6 files from 40 to 600 grit. You'll honestly only use the 400 & 600 most of the time, but the others can be nice for drastically reshaping a part.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00292IOAA/

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

This tool kit may be more than you want to spend, but mine is an amalgam of random stuff that just lasts. I built this kit over 3 years ago and the only thing I've replaced is the Hakko bent tweezers because I used to abuse them. It is my opinion that good tools pay for themselves if you do something regularly with them.

Phillips Driver: Moody 000

Pentalobe: Wiha PL1

Opening tool that I've sharpened into a square blade on one end and a standoff screw remover on the other: Metal spudger

Used to be more relevant when I did more gen 2/3/4 iPads for quick bezel cleaning: 3/32 stubby flathead

Curved tweezers (so many uses): Hakko

Spudgers that last (unless you really abuse them): Menda

Best Y000 for iPhones I've found so far (this one I'm not married to): Bunkaikoubou

The flat file in this set: File

One of those cheap driver sets for bigger stuff like torx, etc. I don't work on stuff that really beats those bigger bits up, so I buy a cheap set for that.

Any dental pick for getting shit out of charge ports, etc.

Edit: I'm sure you can shop around and find cheaper prices, and I also do not claim these are the absolute best tools, just that my set of this stuff has lasted over 3 years and I repair mobile devices full time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TDGHVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These work amazing for me

If you place 1 or 2 pieces of 100 grit sandpaper on top of a bamboo sushi mat, you can slide together all 3 of them over the good wood trim and they should keep their shape while sanding over your repaired area.

https://www.amazon.com/JapanBargain-Brand-Rolling-rolling-spreader/dp/B00O8J2L6K/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1474240446&sr=8-11&keywords=bamboo+sushi+mat


These files alone or with sandpaper wrapped around them also will work.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-176-Double-Bastard-10-Inch/dp/B004EBP2T0/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240833&sr=1-8&keywords=stanley+flat++file


half round file.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-099-Round-Bastard-10-Inch/dp/B0045PSF3U/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240922&sr=1-3&keywords=stanley+round+file

round file.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-22-098-Single-Bastard-8-Inch/dp/B0045PQBL8/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474240922&sr=1-7&keywords=stanley+round+file

I'm about 1/2 way through my assembly. Here's a few tips:

• Use cardboard from the frame/bed as a mat. Keeps scratches & oils off your build surface. https://sunnyside.smugmug.com/Other/Misc/i-8mZ3TNN/A
  
• You may want to pick up a set of jeweler's files. I found I was using them on a regular basis to clear out many of the M3 holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019N6CV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• When assembling the Idler Assembly (Section 5, Step 5), us a pair of channel-locks to seat the pulley shaft. I used both channel-locks and a broad tipped center punch to get the right off-set of the shaft. https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/5NNZYZwJQNJNHaTB.full

Here are some links in case you're interested:

Stanley 10" bastard with one safe edge

Nicholson file set I bought

File card and brush

Round file I bought

what else would i need to add to these tools

Tools needed


Drill press

http://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422478362&sr=1-1

80$


Angle Grinder

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-9557NB/202105761

70$

Cutoff wheel and flap wheel

10$

cabinet makers rasp
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B006P2X4Q4/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1422479106&sr=1-4&keywords=cabinet+rasp

20$

bench vise

30$


also from what i understand when I am making the blade do I just grind it so it is thing and sharp at the bottom and thicker on the top??

Just something like this you think?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JT40Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425782454&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=triangle+saw+file&dpPl=1&dpID=11xe6%2Be%2BOJL&ref=plSrch

Do you think this would probably be fine? With a handle its $7 bucks.

This may be it.

I’ve got a similar set and they work well, had it for 7 years now.

Get yourself a small file and clean up any burrs that may exist on the back of the bolt carrier. Drag is on a t-shirt or some paper to check for any burrs that may exist.

4 Way Rasp File - Constantly use it to smooth out rough cuts, get interlocking parts to fit, shape wood handles.

https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Carpentry-Woodworking-Cabinetmaker-Repairment/dp/B0791CB441

I bought these recently. They're all flat, though. Don't know if that's what your looking for.

I already owned a needle file set. If you want an all-purpose set, then just search for "needle file set"

SE 742DF File Set Tapered Diamond...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BSJD76

Depending on the intricacy if the design you might want some needle files .

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JT40Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425782454&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=triangle+saw+file&dpPl=1&dpID=11xe6%2Be%2BOJL&ref=plSrch

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R1JWUK/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B006P2X9FU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GMTYNFVDA0NRPRBKK3KS

Files

https://www.amazon.com/SE-73810DF-10-Piece-Mini-Diamond/dp/B0019N6CV8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1522782976&sr=8-9&keywords=file

these are the ones I use. fairly cheap too.

I ordered a set of these just for the occasion.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001AE7RRO/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=3dprintedtabl-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001AE7RRO&linkId=0818deea100a21fd61e9bc084bf72017

Links to cheap files.

Link

Link

Link

Don't have a 3D printer? Just attach one of these.

Just build your own semiautomatic rifle.

Here's what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Original-Curved-Locking-502L3/dp/B00004YO5M

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-General-Purpose-Hand/dp/B000TDGHVY

https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-square-bar