Reddit mentions: The best anchors

Yes you need standoff bases of some kind. Over time even pressure treated lumber will lose to water and concrete... every time... eventually.

To be honest, I never liked the concrete pier post bases for a few reasons. If they get a cold rain and a quick freeze, they can crack. They can also crack from kids (or adults for that matter) running and jumping around on the deck (especially if there is any play at all in the deck system - think of dropping a brick), and you still have the issue of wood against the cement pier post bases. In addition to all that, you want your bases anchored to the substrate. Hard to do with those. Not impossible, but difficult, and you could end up cracking them in the process if you are not extremely careful. To me they are a cheap and inexpensive fix or install that may not be heirloom quality (putting it nicely). I can understand their use though. Inexpensive, quick and easy solution.

What we use are heavy duty hot-dipped galvanized standoff bases. A professional foundation - as it were. Simpsons are my favorite for strength, quality and durability for ultimate longevity that will literally last for generations when installed properly.

The best of the best is Simpson Strong Tie ABU44Z ZMax Hot Dipped Galvanized per ASTM A653 for the longest lasting anchor and deck stability and longesvity. These are our go-to offset post base anchoring system.

But some clients are price conscious, so we offer the same post base without the extra hot dipped ZMax protection called the Simpson Strong Tie ABU44.

We have also used the Simpson Strong Tie FPBB44 E-Z Base for customers who had open under deck areas where they did not want the shiny metal look (they are black powder coated finish).

There are many more lower priced lower quality offset post bases available, but please be very careful of cheap crap that may rust within a couple years. Please choose a high quality galvanized base if at all possible. I can't even count the number of repairs I've done on decks that involved replacement of cheap post bases. It is a very expensive repair for the owner.

No matter what you choose, you want that deck anchored to that concrete.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.

So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?

And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?

Ok, so there is a LOT of bad advice in here. I will tell you what I would do as someone who has installed over 80 tvs in the past two years on a variety of building types.

1. There are studs. Drywall needs something to hold it up. What you're probably looking at is steel studs. They're probably at either 16, 18, 20, or 24" intervals. The only exception to this would be if this is an exterior wall or solid brick on the other side; in that case there might be furring strips, but that's unlikely, so I won't address it.
   
2. Use a magnetic stud finder to find the studs. This will work for both metal and steel studs.
   
3. Use this type of mount (it accommodates wide studs): https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Articulating-Swivel-600x400mm-PERLESMITH/dp/B078GK6JD3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tv+mount+wide+studs&qid=1574651505&sr=8-3
   
4. Metal studs are thin u shapes. You're drilling into the thin edges, which are approximately 1.5" wide. Use a very small drill bit (1/16), and drill small holes to either side of where you think the center of the stud is. As soon as you're able to push the drill bit in and hit hollow, you know you have edge of the stud. Do that for both sides, then you'll know where the center is.
   
5. Drill a pilot hole in the drywall where you want to put your toggle bolt.
   
6. Use a step bit to drill a hole in the metal stud, it needs to be 1/2" wide: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Drive-Steps-Titanium-Drill/dp/B07CXBGZQ8/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1574651671&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRUdPTlhPMlBXM0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2Nzk0MTIzVFA3M05YVkg4TTdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzM0MDMzOFEzMlo5WEZHMTBVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
   
7. Use a snap toggle, which will open up inside the metal stud and then you can bolt to that. You can safely mount MOST tvs unless it's like 70" + or suuuuper heavy and old (like 55 lbs +). These are what you want to use: https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBBUE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=snap+toggle&qid=1574651856&sr=8-8
   
8. You'll need 4 snap toggles through the studs, one in each corner. Then put 2 more in just the drywall in the middle of the mount frame on the wall.
   
9. If you must use that mount originally linked, you can cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to span both studs, use snap toggles to attach that to the studs and then attach that mount to the plywood with the 3 lag bolts they provided.
   
10. Do NOT use any anchors other than toggle bolts. Remember that drywall anchors are rated for FAILURE STRENGTH. Meaning an anchor rated for 60 lbs has a safe working load of 1/4 of that, 15 lbs. Snap toggle are rated for 250 lbs in drywall only. Safe working load is like 60ish lbs. No other drywall anchors are remotely close to toggle bolts in drywall, and are categorically unsafe being used on an articulating wall mount (lever effect results on effective weight of tv being doubled at full extension).

Depends what you want to place upon the shelf. For heavier loads you’ll want to use standard shelf - L brackets, for even heavier loads, medium to heavy duty shelf brackets that are L brackets with a diagonal support. If you have relatively light items and want the hardware out of sight, then use floating shelves where the support brackets are inserted into the shelf.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204657448

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202824729

https://www.homedepot.com/p/206337897

All three options would require either to locate a stud(s) to screw into, or a type of good wall anchor. I recommend these wall anchors as I use them my self and have hung heavy mirrors utilizing these.

https://www.amazon.com/Wallclaw-Anchors-Hammer-Drywall-Anchor/dp/B00GXFABZK

Just gently hammer them in, then tighten a screw into it to fully secure.

Your wall will be fine (regarding the structural integrity of your house). But will it be strong enough to old your TV? I don't have enough information. If I understand correctly, with the information you provided us, i'm pretty sure your wall isn't only concrete, this type of wall is usually made with wood, metallic meshing with a poor quality concrete.

How thick the wall is?

Something like this should be a good start to check for screws.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/NYLON-CAVITY-ANCHOR-FIXING-SCREW/dp/B006ZLL4VC/ref=sr_1_66?ie=UTF8&qid=1348165664&sr=8-66

You are using a hammer drill and are unable to penetrate the concrete? Maybe try starting at a smaller size (like 1/4") and working your way up.

Or maybe there is something wrong with your hammer drill? It sounds stupid, but make sure the hammer motion is on and you are drilling in the right direction.

The other option which should be fine, although it would be better to anchor in the concrete: Just use the plastic drywall anchors, like these guys:

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-370329-Plastic-100-Pack/dp/B000BO6NY2/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1415889643&sr=8-22&keywords=drywall+anchors

It sounds like you have about an inch and one eighth before you hit concrete. You may need to snip off a tiny bit to get them to go all the way in.

Wingits Wall anchors should hold 300 pounds each so if you had a swivel arm that took four wall anchors (1200lbs support) you should be good :-)

I used these to attach handicap rails in walls without studs. (Lath and plaster) They were strong and secure enough to support a 300lb man.

This is the ceramic blanket I purchased a few of. It doesn't mention naked flame though. Any idea if it is probably still okay?

For the screws, would something like this work okay in the soil? Would you recommend anything as a lining outside of the fiber blanket?

Thank you so much. Super duper helpful.

I just mean they aren’t bigger than the board or the space on the wall if it’s open below (I didn’t go back and look.) if it sticks down below where the board is in the wall you may just hit open drywall, and then you want an anchor. I like the zip anchors. They’re a bit more expensive but easy and strong. For example

Simpson Strong-Tie FT25250R100 1/4"-20 FlipToggle Anchor with 2-1/2" Bolt, 100 ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072B8G648/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Kjx0Db9800A6S

I have to be honest, unless you can find the studs in your wall, I think that the only way you can keep the hanger up is with a drywall anchor.

Something small like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Fastener-Plastic-Conical-Anchors/dp/B00BX6KOWE/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_20/181-7386968-9805205

You could try to get approval from your landlord to do this repair. It may help you offer to leave the hanger when you move out.

Otherwise you could attach the anchors and then just patch and repair the drywall when you leave. Push the anchors through into the wall, fill the hole with drywall mud, sand it smooth, and touch it up with paint. Most big home improvement stores have a machine that can match paint, the only problem is they need a sample about the size of a quarter. The landlord may also be able to provide paint or they might know the color already
*spelling

Depending on how much weight you're talking about hanging it's usually best if you can find a stud to directly screw into.

In absence of that being an option, self drilling drywall anchors are the next best option. You could use something like THESE to go directly to where the old smaller anchors it appears you have were at.

You don't need studs. I installed mine in drywall using these they are amazing and super easy to use. All I need is a little spackle to patch up the holes when I leave.

You shouldn't need a drill and screw to hang pictures in drywall, you just need a nail and a picture hanger like this.

Whenever you do need a screw for future reference, I recommend self drilling drywall anchors like these. No drill required, just a screwdriver, they're super easy.

You don't need a guy for these things ;) You just need the right things for the right applications. I got pretty frustrated once when trying to screw a wood screw into a stud and the screw broke, because I had to hang my shelf in a different spot thanks to the spoken screw.

Yes, it comes with everything you'd need, but if you're going into drywall, I would suggest buying some better anchors like these, the ones they come with aren't the best.

If you plan one making it mobile, maybe look into some tripod mounts, the bases support a standard mount.

I would use Simpson Titan HD concrete anchor bolts. They are easy to install and if you ever want to move the rack to another spot they unscrew just like a regular screw.
You just use a hammer drill with the correct size masonry bit, for your rack I would suggest 1/2” diameter. Calculate the depth of the rack plus flooring (stall mat plus any other flooring) and then add 2 3/4” for embedment into the concrete. The total is the length of the bolt. Over drill the hole a bit and either vacuum or blow the hole out before using an impact driver with a socket to drive the bolt thru the rack and snug into the concrete. Do not over tighten the bolt, it’s not needed and cold fuck up your rack. I use these bolts to anchor sill plates to foundations here in earthquake friendly Norcal so they are more than strong enough for anchoring a rack and are removable too!
Hope this helps.
Titan HD Bolt
The link is for 20 bolts but you can get them in bins at Home Depot or any good lumber yard that works with contractors.

Plastic Drywall Wall Anchors Screw Assortment Kit 300 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWQ8K93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.KWDbA97D09M

Something like this from your local hardware store would definitely get you through this with minimal sweat and swearing 👍🏽👌🏽 and if you go to a local hardware store ask the person who works there, chances are they got your back.

Just go directly into the sheetrock and I like to use the "screwable" anchors like these:


https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XG17A75N5E2MX0RSWBGE


They're super easy to install and no need to drill.

Yep, I agree with this. It's a .22, about as low pressure a round as you can find. Make sure it's not obstructed, nothing is obviously damaged, and that it isn't rusted to shit. Clean it, oil it, go shoot it.

Also you probably don't want to dry fire this gun, older rimfires like this will peen the breech face. These drywall anchors (the yellow ones you can find anywhere) work great as snap caps though.

I make and install curtains for a living, this is my time to shine!

First things first, other posters are correct that you’re going to need to patch the drywall and use drywall anchors for your next attempt. Do not use any of the screws or anchors included with the curtain rod, you need to get the right hardware for your wall which probably means longer screws as well as better anchors. These are the kind of drywall anchors we use.

I assume you’ve got premade curtains, which comes in standard lengths. The previous tenants probably did the same, so it’s very likely that all the drywall in that specific rod height is majorly compromised. Is there any way you can hang your rod higher or lower and hem your curtains? Anchoring your rod into undamaged drywall (or even better, try to find the studs or header on either side and top of the window) and attach your brackets into that.

Lastly, do you have enough brackets holding up your curtain rod? We always include a center support bracket if the rod is wider than 60 inches. This helps distribute the weight better and keeps your curtain rod from sagging.

Hope this helps! I could give you a few more tips, but I’d need to see the kind of curtain hardware you’re using and the window you’re trying to hang it onto.

Homedone Drywall Anchor 50-Pack - 2 Different Sizes, Self-Drilling with Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVU4Z68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8PrxzbGDEQ8MP

I've used these with good results only downside is the huge hole they leave if you remove them.

They make smaller ones but I can't find them on Amazon that are rated for the 50 lbs and take a 7/32" drill bit to install.

I'd recommend just going to the hardware store they have a huge selection typically.

They aren't drilled into a beam, I used anchors with the hooks. They're great and will ensure the hook wont go anywhere!

You don't really need to find studs for mounting the lighthouses, although that is the simplest installation. Since the lighthouses are fairly light, drywall anchors similar to these will be more than strong enough to hold them if the ideal location doesn't happen to be near a stud.

Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!

Some Buckmark pointers:

• It cannot be field-stripped without Allen wrenches (3/32 for sight base, 7/64 for barrel). If you want to clean without disassembling, strongly consider getting a boresnake to clean. If you only have a cleaning rod, you can clean from the muzzle but must be very careful not to ding or scrape the crown around the muzzle, or you can just disassemble the thing.
  
  
• Don't dryfire an empty Buckmark. The firing pin will carve a notch on the breech face.
  
  
• #4 yellow drywall anchors make perfect snap caps for practice and dryfire. You can also use spent 22LR casings.
  
  
• A drop of blue Loctite on your sight base screws will keep them from coming loose after reassembly.
  
  If you're feeling adventurous:
  
  
• Consider removing the mag disconnect. Being unable to pull the trigger without a magazine is a worthless feature, and removing one simple spring fixes this and improves the feel of the trigger pull.
  
  
• Consider performing the Heggis flip to reduce the weight of your trigger pull.
  
  
• Be careful when removing the grips - they hold tension on a lot of small parts.

Is there a reason why something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510756607&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolts

won't work?


These can hold a remarkable amount of weight.

Just make sure you screw into studs next time, or use properly rated drywall anchors.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW

Disclaimer: I work for the company that makes those, they are really awesome though.

These work great and are easy to use, just screw in the anchor then the provided screw
https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I

Those are good bolts, you need to hold them so they don't spin while being tightened. Use a manual screw driver, not electric. You might find toggle bolts easier to use. The trick is to tighten them enough to hold but not so much that they crush the plaster. Patch the old holes and drill the new ones at least 50mm away. The weight is limited by the strength of the plasterboard. I wouldn't want to do more than a few kg on a ceiling. If you drill and bolt straight into the metal studs it can hold way more.

Don’t listen everyone freaking out about finding studs. If you have actual drywall and not plaster, then anchors are perfectly fine. I’ve had a 42” tv mounted to drywall for 8 years using 6 of these anchors because I’m German, and I like engineering overkill. Each one holds 50 lbs.

We use these to hang TV and speaker mounts (obviously one side in a stud). The bolt can be unscrewed and re-inserted without losing the end in the wall which is nice. I'm not sure if these can fit with your mounting bracket for the mirror though.

TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bHowDbY7PZCQ3

You can use larger anchors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Self-Drilling/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633742&sr=1-6&keywords=drywall+anchors

OR Toggle Bolts like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633819&sr=1-4&keywords=toggle+bolts

AV installer here. A single stud is just fine for a tilt mount it will hold the weight and then some. And frankly you don’t need the 4 additional bolts. Bolts a drywall don’t mix you need drywall toggles and one on each side. The toggles are simply keeping the mount from rotating the strength is on the stud.


These are what I’m talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=asc_df_B0051IARUE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312360540451&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10502080946968211216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060467&hvtargid=pla-641936376392&psc=1

I've had a lot of luck with these: http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Toggle-Bolt-Fastener/dp/B0051IARUE

My tv hangs from 4 of them. Crazy strong.

I've had this issues with a towel bar last summer. What I think you'll end up finding out when you disassemble the unit is that the screws that hold the bar into the wall have shifted or moved.

It's a big issue with towel bars because the weight of the towel(s) cause it to deform over time.

I fixed it by unscrewing both ends of the units and removing the screws that hold the bar to the drywall and reinstalling it with toggle bolts (see: http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-370054-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453079586&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolt). The toggle bolt will make sure that it won't shift over time, and it's super sturdy!

get the screw in type or toggle anchors and they will be plenty strong. people hang TV's using these, even without studs.

if you can get one stud, they should provide enough resistance against the "pull out of the wall" force, even if the other side is only held in by drywall anchors.

We use THESE when installing heavier drapery rods that can't be attached to a stud. Very sturdy, easy to work with, and removable in the future.

Those are garbage. Throw them away. Get something like these instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_inmwCbW1JC7Z6

Go to the local hardware store and get a larger screw in anchor, like these: Drywall Anchor.

They come in different sizes, get one slightly larger than the hole.

Alternatively you can use a toggle bolt.

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

I've used these to replace plastic anchors holding a couple of towl racks to the wall. they have a larger diameter than the plastic anchor hole and so far have held up well.

if you cant find studs, look into using these.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1468292016&sr=8-15&keywords=wall+anchor

I once had my Super Star Destroyer and an older X-wing and Tie on there.

If I were you I'd go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVJF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uBS2Db90R31CG

As there isn't studs, anything that protrudes from the wall is applying alot of pulling force to any of the top screws. The wider mount keeps it close to the wall and gives you a much larger surface area to mount the hell out of the tv.

Id also use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=drywall+anchors&qid=1574619039&sprefix=Drywall+an&sr=8-4

These are to give a bit more reliant hold to the drywall, not fantastic, but with enough of these (like 8-10 of them) with a static tv mount, you should be fine.

This all does depend on the weight of the tv and any angle you have the TV mounted at though.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370326-Ribbed-Plastic-100-Pack/dp/B000H5WVCS

I use a combination of these into the stud and or in the void for everything from my mounted Tv's to a bike rack.

For the stud portion of your mount:
FastenMaster Headloks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OEJULG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lag+screw+spider&dpPl=1&dpID=317en472JRL&ref=plSrch

And these in the void between studs:
Toggled SnapToggler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBBUE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toggle+bolts&dpPl=1&dpID=410A7FjjAcL&ref=plSrch

DONE!

Here is the mobile version of your link

$6.56 for a pack of 100 :D

You need these or these.

https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-Together/dp/B013SBBUGK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485996679&sr=8-7&keywords=drywall+anchor

200lb shear rating

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ

This would be my guess

These might work TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 50) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0051IARUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0Z2IDbA64HQE7

Plaster also has lath behind it which was used as something for the plaster to grab onto. Thin pieces of wood that span the studs. If you use the zip anchors I posted above then they would grab the lath from behind using the wood as an anchor.

Tough call though cause if you somehow don't hit the lath your plaster is going to pull right out in a big chunk when you mount the object.

Maybe you've already thought of this, but it's possible you're hitting a screw or nail. I know you said the stud finder doesnt say metal is there.

Do you face the same issue if you move the installation up/down 3 inches? Are your curtains light enough to use these drywall screws?

(not moly screws.... Dont ever use molly screws).

Edit: still trying to figure out formatting in Reddit

My home was built in 1898 and I've got a tv hanging on the wall with no problem.

You have to use plaster wall toggle anchors, not those plastic ones they sell at ikea.


for the television I tediously searched for studs, they do exist in there, and attached a thick piece of plywood to them. Then I screwed the tv mount to the plywood. Been holding strong for 5+ years.

These type of plastic anchors might be a solution to pressure dings from hard turns or knees or however they originate. The anchors would distribute the pressure down into the foam, instead of the pressure only being at the surface. Pressure dings can lead to delaminations.

Does anybody make surfboards using polyisocyanurate closed cell foam?

If you want something snapcap-like to stick in the chamber of a .22LR so you can dry-fire without hurting the firing pin or chamber, get a box of 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch Plastic Screw Anchors.

It takes the same 10s of shots to ruin the rim on them as "real" .22 snapcaps that cost an order of magnitude more, it's soft enough that even if you really fuck up nothing will get hurt, and they'll usually even feed from a magazine.

I haven’t done it, but some people apparently put these in their gun to act as snap caps when dry firing.

The Hillman Group 370326 Ribbed Plastic Screw Anchor, 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch, Yellow, 100-Pack.


The advantage to using these would be that The majority (all?) of “real” 22LR snap caps will eventually get dented from Firing pin strikes to the point that they are no longer serving the intended purpose. These screw anchors are disposable, so you just toss them when the rim becomes dented from your firing pin.