Reddit mentions: The best aquarium air pump accessories

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

In addition to what the previous poster said about cycling the tank before you get your axolotl(s), I recommend a canister filter for a 20g tank.
I use this one: Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1TDybRH4D83H
It comes with a spray bar to help with aeration without disturbing your axolotl(s). I used a small hanging filter at first but it did not do the trick. Every time I chemically tested the water it was far from the correct conditions. The information for replacement filter media is either included or easy to find.

I also can't recommend this enough:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3TDyb818ZDDW
It attaches to a sink faucet (you will need a tool to remove the aerator on the faucet) and will both drain and fill your aquarium and save you a ton of time. It disturbs the water way less than lugging containers back and forth. My axolotls don't care about it at all, sometimes they would stay right in front of the tube as it was pouring water. They make different lengths, so measure the distance between your tank and sink before you purchase it. You'll want a little slack, of course.

Get a bottle of dechlorinator for when you do water changes. A digital aquarium thermometer is crucial for making sure the tank stays below 68°F. Having a separate container and a net is helpful in case you need to take the axolotl(s) out for salt baths, tank maintenance, or fridging.

Live plants are good for the tank's ecosystem but having some additional fake plants gives the tank a nice look. Make sure your live plants are either the floating kind or you have them secured because axolotls snuffle and bobble around and have a tendency to pull up your plants. If you feed them frozen bloodworms (as adults) it's helpful to have a clear turkey baster so that you can suck up the worms and feed them easily and make sure that the baster is always clean. Make sure you have something to clean up their poo, like a designated spoon or something.

I had sand for a while but it's a little hard to keep clean, so I removed all my sand recently and my axolotls seem to like it better. I replaced all their decor recently (because they're spoiled, lol) and one of mine really likes all of the new hides and the other really likes all of the new places to climb. They really like laying on top of their plants for some reason? So get sturdy plants I guess.

If your local temperature is hot and humid, you'll probably want to invest in (or build) some kind of chiller because evaporative cooling with fans won't work in high humidity. If it's hot but mostly dry, you might be able to get away with fans and an insulator (like this guy did: https://youtu.be/zp6QhXArIEY). I built one slightly better by using two layers of foam core instead of cardboard, and cut the sides of the four panels so they sort of puzzle-pieced together, making it easier to check on them.

I apologize for the lots of scattered info but I hope it helps!

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

Sorry for the delayed response, busy week. It is funny you mention filtering your water. When I first got my fish I was buying gallons of distilled water from the grocery store and I live in Washington which has some of the best tap water in the world.

Ok so here we go:

• It sounds like you have excellent tap water. Use it with some Prime and you will be all set. No need to get different water.
  
  
• Absolutely get a non-tank thermometer. This is essential. I literally keep a 6$ standard meat thermometer sitting on my sink windowsill just for this very reason. You do not need anything fancy. Mine is like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anpro-DT-10-Instant-Digital-Thermometer/dp/B01HV5AL9G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487866346&sr=8-3&keywords=meat+thermometer ($8). This is essential in my opinion as temperature fluctuations are extremely stressful. Try to get it within 2 degrees and error on the side of warmer as the water will cool naturally as you transport it.
  
  When you ready to spend a bit more $$$ I highly suggest a Python water changer (https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487866713&sr=8-1&keywords=python+water+changer). It connects to a sink faucet and uses your water pressure to syphon the tank super easily and makes it so you can refill straight from your sink tap (no carrying water anywhere). A note: when applying seachem prime to your new water when using a changer, you can just dump the dose of prime right into your tank and fill it with the tap water as Prime acts almost instantly. For good measure I generally turn my filter off for a few minutes just to avoid chlorine potentially getting in the filter somehow.
  
  
• Catfish...are a bit tricky. You need to very careful about which kind you get. Please heed my advice as I just returned one to the fish store to be adopted out because it almost trippled in size in 2 months.
  
• Do not, under any circumstances, get any type of Plecostomus. here are some pictures: (https://www.google.com/search?q=plecostomus&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXq6L_0KbSAhVG4mMKHaq1A2IQ_AUICCgB&biw=1566&bih=909) Even the smaller types of Plecos should be kept in much much larger tanks. Not only will a small tank dwarf their growth which is very bad for fish, but they are extremely fast and violent with their movements. They will literally scare the crap out of your Betta sometimes. Not to mention, they are some of the crazyiest waste producers in fresh water aquariums. Since you mention "bottom feeders" Im assuming you arent really trying to replace whatever is on the bottom of your tank with more fish poo :). As I mentioned I just took one back to the pet store to be adopted out because he was so powerful and had no business in a small tank.
  
  
• DO consider getting either Corydoras Julii (http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-julii/) or Otocinclius (http://www.aquariumcarebasics.com/freshwater-aquarium-fish/otocinclus-catfish/). I have both and they are super cute. They are also some of the best algae eaters in the game. If you are going to get some, make sure you have algae "tabs" (the food) to supplement because your tank may not have enough algae in it for them to live off of and they need more food anyway.
  
  (NOTE ON CATFISH: They are naturally schoaling fish. This means they like to be kept in groups and if they are not they will not really know how to act properly and won't be "happy". Both the Corydoras Julii and the Otocinclus will stay very small throughout their life. I would say 3 bare minimum with 4 or 5 being better if you have the space.)
  
  
• If you want "Bottom Feeders" as in workers that will "clean up" the tank I HIGHLY suggest Amano Shrimp or Nerite Snails. The snails can be a bit messy with their waste and if you get a female they like to lay tiny white eggs on stuff, but they are some of the most efficient tank cleaners in the game. Amano Shrimp are amazing and are really fun to watch. I once had a neon die and only knew because they shrimp were all bunched up in a corner going ham on its carcass -,-. Nerite snails are dirt cheap if you can find them and my local fish store sell Amano Shrimp for about $4 a pop. 3 - 5 shrimp or 3 snails would be great in a 10 gallon and they don't bother the Betta at all.
  
  
• As far as how many fish you can keep in the tank (Called Bioload), This is really more dependent on how strong your filter is and how often you want to have to clean the tank. Without live plants in the tank (this is a whole other beast) More fish = more ammonia and if the Bacteria can't handle the ammonia load they will not be able to convert everything to Nitrates. For the record, live plants create an incredible buffer for mistakes in your system. They naturally process some ammonia and they love nitrogen (nitrates). I would highly recommend looking into some easy-to-care-for low maintenance live plants when you are settled in. In my little 5g with a Tetra Whisper 10 (Pretty weak filter) at one point I had 7 tetras, 2 snails, a betta, and a plocstomus. It was very crowded, but keeping up with water changes and whatnot everyone seemed ok. Tetras are generally happier in larger schools, like 10 minimum with it being suggested to keep an odd number (I don't know why). For the time being, since you are trying to get the tank cycled and get the fish happy, don't add anymore.
  
  Finally in regards to bioload, wait to add any more fish period until you can tell that the tank has been cycled. This will simply make it easier to keep a more controlled environment and keep the stress levels down.
  
  
• Hopefully this statement will help relieve a lot of stress on your jouney: Fish, like people, have many different temperaments and one betta can spend its entire life acting completely different than the betta in a tank next to it. Some fish are just down-right lazy, and some like to eat their tails :).
  
  Further, since you are cycling the tank right now, that inevitably creates stress for your fish. Even the slightest ammonia or nitrite spike is not fun for them. Until your tank is fully cycled, he is going to be grumpy and may spend a lot of time acting differently than you did when you first got him. Once the tank is cycled then I would be more aware of monitoring his behavior.
  
  My older betta spends the ENTIRE DAY either sleeping on his plant leaves, hiding behind his filter, sitting on the thermometer or sitting in a pineapple. He is such a lazy jerk. This is also the fish that lived through like 6 months of pure neglect as I had no idea what I was doing when I got him. He was sitting in unchanged water for months at a time :( and is the whole reason I undertook trying to get better at this.
  
  
• As far as baffling your filter, is the flow adjustable? I'd love to see a GIF or a picture of how strong the current is. You have to maintain a delicate balance between too much current and maintaining enough surface agitation that there is sufficient gas exchange (how your fish get oxygen). My favorite way to slow down filter flow is to get some Polyfill (the stuff you put in pillows, sold at craft stores for DIRT cheap) and just stuff some down into the filter. Polyfill is also an awesome filter media as it has a lot of potential for bacteria to latch onto it.
  
  TL:DR - Yes, just let him rest :). Keep up on the water changes, and buy a thermometer as soon as possible. When the tank is stable, get 5 more tetras and 3-4 Corydora Julii or Otocinclius Catfish and a couple shrimp :).

What size tank do you have?

If you are set on the paintball set up, you can't go wrong with the Aquatek mini regulator. It is the regulator I have set up on my 15 gallon and it has been fantastic. Basically, the parts you will need are:

• Regulator (Aquatek mini or if you have the $$, the GLA model is likely very nice.
  
• CO2 tubing (Aquatek has good stuff).
  
• Some kind of diffuser. These can be had for cheap on Ebay or Amazon. I bought a cheap one on Amazon and was disappointed with it, so I ended up buying this one and I love it.
  
• A bubble counter. There is a bubble counter included with the Aquatek mini regulator, but it is a cheapo unit. If you want to spend a little more money for a good one, check here for some good examples.
  
• Paintball tanks, obviously. I would recommend getting the largest one you can find and maybe getting two of them. That way you can have one on the tank at all times, when it gets low, swap them out and you will have a couple months to get the backup filled.
  
• A drop checker. This is used to estimate the levels of CO2 diffused in the water. It is filled with a pH indicator solution that changes color as the pH of the solution changes as the CO2 levels in the water change. It is a handy little device which will prove it's worth quickly. I use this one and have been very happy with it, but there are nicer ones here if you want that classy glassy look.
  
  Obviously, CO2 setups aren't cheap, but with the paintball route you can do it relatively inexpensively compared to the full scale regulator route. Good luck! I'd be happy to clear anything else up for you if you have questions.
  
  Edit: Make sure you have a check valve in the system somewhere. This will keep aquarium water from flowing up the line into the regulator. Some of those items I listed (like the GLA diffuser) have them built in, which will solve that problem. However, if you choose products without a check valve built in you will need to add one. Here are some (also more tubing there to choose from).

OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.

Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.

An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.

If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.

You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.

Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.

There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.

I don't know if it's different in Hawaii, but in most states a 5 gallon tank is like $13, and a 10 gallon is the same price. Used 10 gallons tanks are typically $10 or less, and petco/petsmart both do a "dollar per gallon sale" pretty often where brand new 10 gallon tanks are $10.

If that's still a pinch, you can use a plastic bin that holds a simiilar amount of water for like $5 or less. It wont look as pretty but it will keep him healthy until a tank is affordable.

As for heaters, here's a really cheap one that I've used!

Filters can be really cheap as well, especially sponge filters. This one is only $3 and would be great in a betta tank. Since it's a sponge filter, you also need an air pump, but those are cheap too. This one is like $6, you could probably do some googling around and find even cheaper ones though. You'll also need some airline tubing, which is pretty cheap as well, here's some that is $3 and way more that you need.

I've had my share of money troubles, so I know a lot of ways to make keeping a fish healthy a lot cheaper. If you get the filter and heater I recommended, it'll only cost $20.84 (plus tax and maybe some shipping costs). And then the tank or plastic bucket/bin or something will be another ~$10. So that doesn't seem too unreasonable. If you can't afford that all at once, the bigger tank should be top priority, along with the filter. The heater is also very important, but less so than the filter and the bigger tank.

If you can't get ANYTHING at all yet, in the meantime you'll need to be doing daily water changes (at least 50% of the water or more) to keep the ammonia down and safe for him. Make sure you're only changing the water with new conditioned water, not tap water. The chlorine in tap water is toxic.

One last thing, check your local craigslist listings too! I know Hawaii tends to be a bit more expensive than around here, but sometimes you can find REALLY good deals on used fish stuff compared to buying it new. That's always a good option on a budget.

Hopefully this helped a little bit!

It would certainly be easier to answer "What did you already know" before you started this. Nothing.

This list will inevitably be incomplete but here goes:

• How to fiberglass - also, fiberglass is nasty.
  
• How to use a router properly
  
• How to solder (for the lights)
  
• How to clean silicone off of every surface known to man (Vinegar and razor blades)
  
• The cheap white insulation foam at Home Depot sucks to carve. Get the pink stuff.
  
• When carving foam rocks, don't sweat the details because the concrete is going to completely cover them up anyway.
  
• Sanded grout/concrete (I think I actually used concrete), you basically need a splash of water per 2 cups of concrete - and sanded looks way more like real rock than unsanded
  
• You really only need 2 colors of paint to make realistic rocks (black and white). Nature will add the rest of the colors once you introduce plants.
  
• Cut notches in any PVC supports to prevent stagnant water in your pipe.
  
• What vivarium makers call egg crate is really the plastic lattice you find under commercial florescent lights.
  
• Egg crate is pretty darn studry and can hold a lot of weight when properly supported (used it under the planted sides).
  
• Use organic (non-fertilized) garden soil for the planted part of a vivarium. Actually, you might not need soil at all if you have fish since you basically end up with a closed circuit hydroponic system.
  
• Expanding foam is impossible to completely scrub off without taking some skin with it. Wear rubber gloves.
  
• Like the rocks, don't sweat the details with expanding foam if you plant to cover it (like I did with Hygrolon). I included a ton of texture that is completely obscured by the moss (but hey, the moss still looks great).
  
• Tape plexiglass before you cut it. It makes for a much cleaner (and safer) cut.
  
• Sheet moss can be pinned to your background with bamboo skewers and it works pretty darn well. The moss will take at least a few weeks to really attach to the background.
  
• You should really have your entire land area planted before introducing fish. The run-off from lots of new material can cause a few fish deaths. :(
  
• A powerhead doubles as a vacuum, reducing tank maintenance. Just scrape off the powerhead grate every few days.
  
• You don't really have to dechlorinate your water before doing a large water change (30 gallons in my case is not unusual). Before adding new water, dose your tank with prime for the entire tank volume.
  
• Purigen is pure magic. ..but don't count on being able to regenerate it, even if you've never used any of the fouling chemicals it lists.
  
• If you have a manifold, keep it over a bucket...just in case.
  
• Plants release CO2 at night (weird, right), so you might find your fish at the surface gasping for air. Add an airstone. Don't ask me how to properly weight down an air hose though, still working that bit out.
  
• There are ultrasonic foggers meant for ponds that work great in vivariums! They make the most fog when submerged but still fairly close to the surface. Make sure animals can't come in contact with the fogger itself though...they hurt pretty bad when you touch them.
  
• Plants will grow just fine under LEDs with the right spectrum.
  
• A fan at the top of your window and a small gap at the bottom will help prevent your window from fogging since dry air will be drawn across the glass.
  
• Snails are AMAZING algea eaters and their population naturally stays in balance with the available food supply. You don't need to order gobs of them, they reproduce very quickly on their own. And don't sweat it if you don't see them for a few weeks after adding them to your tank. Trust that they are doing good work.
  
• Little white worms in your substrate mean you are likely overfeeding.
  
• Pushing water vertically 8 feet is hard, yet my canister filter managed it pretty ok. I added an inline pump anyway, but if you have a smaller setup, a simple manifold on your filter output should probably be fine to split the water return to different areas.
  
• Finding aquarium manifolds with barbs is hard. Jeez, it shouldn't be so hard. Might be better to piece one together at the hardware store than spending a ton of time finding one online.
  
• Prepping found wood for a vivarium is a lot of work, but waaay cheaper than buying it. Just soak it in salt water for a few days, switch to fresh water and do water changes daily. If you're paranoid like me, boil it for a few hours and then leave it in your oven at 200 degrees for as long as it takes to dry.
  
• Large water changes are way easier with the Python: http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
  
  And probably another 1000 things.

I recommend checking out Craigslist if you are interested in a bigger tank and are only put off by the price. Lots of people sell second hand stuff for cheap. I was looking earlier today and saw seventy gallon set up with a stand, filter, and lighting for under a hundred in the Inland Empire.

If you are going small with first use equipment, a 3g is suitable for a single Betta and a non fish companion such as a larger snail or a couple of smaller shrimp (Ghost Shrimp are common and work well, but Cherry Shrimp are prettier if you can find them). I use this tank for a Betta, a large snail, and half a dozen ghost shrimp. The design is quite nice and the included air pump, filter, and lighting is sufficient for a small Betta tank, though you still need to buy gravel and decorations.

You mentioned frogs in your initial post -- African Dwarf Frogs are compatible with a Betta tank, but it can be a pain to feed them because their vision is terrible and a Betta is likely to try eat their food before they find it. If you don't mind that, they are pretty neat.

Bettas are aggressive to their own so you can only keep one per community except for female sorority tanks with 4 or more females. Unfortunately the females have the shorter fins and are less attractive generally. Also you have to avoid placing any fish that a Betta can mistake for a rival in the tank (i.e. fish with bright colors or flowing fins). So it's usually best to stay with non dangerous invertebrate like shrimp and snails in small Betta tanks. If you go for a larger set-up where there is more room, you can get fish like Neon Tetras who may provoke a Betta but can easily run away with enough room (a properly equipped 10g can hold a Betta and a small school of six Neons if you are diligent with weekly maintenance). Proving ample cover in the tank is also useful.

If you stay with going small, a Betta is likely hardy enough to deal with the initial cycle of your tank if want to start right away, just make sure you are diligent with partial water changes every three days while you do the first cycle (I stress it would be safer to do a fishless cycle). These fish are able to put up with being trapped in the small cups at Petco and Petsmart after all, not that they should have to. I would recommend you leave it at just the Betta at first to keep the cycle easier - the toxins from cycling will affect small shrimp and snails faster than it will affect the Betta.

I live in SoCal and my water stays at 74 to 76 without heating (windows closed at night) which is fine for a Betta, so I don't think you need a heater unless it gets very cold in your area at night.

Fake plants are fine, but go for silk versus plastic if you can. It's usually not an issue but plastic can tear up a Betta's fins because they are so ornate. Real plants help with water quality though and usually look prettier. Simple plants like Anarcharis or Amazon Swords should be under $5 at Petco or Petsmart.

Creating bubbles requires an air pump at the very least. You can get one sufficient for up to a 10g for only $7-$10 at Petsmart or Amazon. Creating multiple smaller (prettier) bubbles will require fitting the end of the tubing with an air stone or other bubble accessory (a bubble wand creates a backdrop curtain of bubbles against a wall of the tank for instance). However, Bettas flowing fins make it hard for them to deal with lots of current in the water so if you get a smaller tank you will want to have the bubble output isolated to one area so there's room for the Betta to get away. The same problem exists with filters; in smaller tanks the output can be too strong for a Betta and you may have to construct a "baffle" to break the impact of the filter's current.

One option that works well for small Betta tanks is to use a sponge filter. Sponge filters are powered by the movement of water from your air pump; rising bubbles force water to move and that draws surrounding water through the sponge to replace the rising water. The sponge will mechanically filter your water, and the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle will colonize the sponge to do the biological filtration. Cheap sponge filters go for under five dollars on Amazon, like this one, and they can fulfill your bubbling and filtration at the same time.

I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.

To pick up now:

-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.

-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.

-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.

-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.

-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.

To pick up soon:

-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.

-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.

Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.

First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.

Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.

For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.

For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.

Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.

The two biggest challenges with all-in-one setups for shrimp is light (not enough) and waterflow (too much.) Shrimp really require live plants to thrive, and those plants need enough light to grow. It's hard to judge from pictures, but that tank's light seems like it MIGHT be adequate for low light plants. Shrimp also require very low waterflow. High waterflow will blow them around (they're tiny and light swimmers compared to fish) and they will easily get sucked onto the intakes of most filters. The tank you linked would need some modifications to be suitable for shrimp: at the very least it will need sponges or pantyhose covering the inlet and outlets, and the flow will need to be turned down to the lowest setting, probably.

So, it might work. But if you're interested in shrimp specifically, you might as well spend a small amount extra and build a custom setup that is tailored to them. You'd need:

• a 10 gal tank (10 gal is cheaper to buy than 5, it's not any more work, and barely any more space.) Check thrift store for this if budget is a concern. You don't NEED a hood, unless you have kids or cats or something.
  
  
• A sponge filter , aquarium tubing, and an air pump. This is the preferred filter type for shrimp. While we're discussing filters, make sure you understand the nitrogen cycle, and the basics of cycling a tank.
  
  
• An aquarium heater and a thermometer. Don't stinge here. Maintaining a stable temperature is key.
  
  
• A nice light. Doesn't have to pricey. A desk lamp and a daylight CFL bulb works great, but LEDs like thisare not much, either.
  
  I think all of that will run you roughly $75, give or take. Obviously, more expensive than the all-in-one, but it would result in a tank that would be easier for a beginner to succeed with.
  
  You'll also need to get some non-equipment essentials, like subtrate for planting in, a test-kit for monitoring your water, and obviously food, and a petri dish for feeding is highly recommended.
  
  Then you can get into plants and stuff. Whew! Sounds like a lot, I guess. It is, but it's worth it, and shrimp are definitely a good place to jump into aquariums.
  
  
  

Good on you for taking the poor guy!

First, the spots don't really look like ich. Ich is more like the fish has salt grains sprinkled on them. The spots on the this guy look like either fungus or bacteria. Also, from the picture, it looks like he has some pretty bad fin rot and he's very pale.

I see an air pump, is it hooked up to anything in the tank? I don't see a filter, but you can use that air pump to set up a sponge filter.

The tank itself looks to be ok, although a very odd shape... I'm thinking it's probably 2.5-3 gallons which is alright for a betta (though 5 gallons is ideal)

Honestly, if there's no filter or bubble stone, I'd do a 100% water change, rinse the gravel really well to get any detritus out (judging by the state of the tank, I'm sure there's a lot...). Until you get a filter, you should do 50-75% changes every day. Look up fish-in cycling as well. I'm sure we have a link in our wiki. Scoop the little guy into a holding cup while you change the water, then slowly acclimate to the cleaner water. With his compromised immune system, too much stress may be a death sentence.

Like I said about the spots, it looks like a fungus or bacterial infection. Bacterial is more common and would fit with the MO of fin rot, so I'd start with that for treating. Any antibacterial would be good, but get him in clean water first.

Can you take a pic of the heater?

As far as buddies go, a single snail or a few shrimp would be fine with him. Nerite snails are one of my favorites. They eat all kinds of algae, lay eggs that don't hatch in freshwater, come in lots of colors, and stay relatively small. DO NOT do a mystery snail, they get huge and produce a lot of waste. Ghost or amano shrimp are good choices. Shrimp are much more sensitive to water quality though, so make sure you get the tank fixed before adding anything.

Finally, definitely get this test kit. You'll need it for cycling and is much more accurate and cost effective than strips.

I can't say much because you didn't specify what your parents are against and what you've done so far to try to convince them.

But from my experience (had to convince my parents too) collect as much information as possible and show it to them in a calm, non confrontational/emotional manner.

Info such as:

• Basic fish info: the nitrogen cycle & what the good bacteria does, stunting growth consequences
  
  
• Basic goldfish info: how long they live, how big they get, videos of happy & clean goldfish tanks such as Solid Gold on youtube
  
  
• Get an API liquid water test kit and and test the water. Have numbers to back you up!
  
  
• Tank size - do what purple_potato said. There are still a LOT of sites with misinformation that come up on the first pages of google so be careful! They might counter with that.
  
  
• Tank weight - How old is your house? What floor do you live in? Can the floor hold the weight of the aquarium? (75 gallons is about 850 lb with water. If you have fancy goldfish you won't need that big of a tank but if they're comets 75 is a good size, but realistically you won't be allowed to get a 75)
  
  
• Make a budget sheet. List all the expenses for the tank, filtration, heater (depending on where you live), air stone (if needed), water conditioner, siphon, food.
  
  How much money do you have? Be prepared to use your own money. Look around on craigslist/letitgo/etc for good tank deals. If you're short on money and can't find any good deals, consider using storage bins or other alternatives.
  
  Keeping it very clean, visually pleasing (eg live plants), and quiet (eg noise from the spray bar and air stones) also helps.
  
  Who's going to keep up with water changes and care? How old are you? Do you plan to move out soon? Since goldfish tanks are huge, water changes can quickly become a drag (unless you have money for a python or a similar setup) .
  
  Alternatively, find someone that will take the goldfish and get a betta or other suitable fish for a 10 gal. Happy fish and your parents still get to "care" for a fish!

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

From his previous posts:

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

It sort of depends really. They have specific needs, but they aren't too difficult to care for. I have a python water changer and it takes most work out of fishkeeping.

Once your tank is established (fishless cycling is the best way to do this) you only need to do a 20% water change weekly. I hook up the python, turn on the water (this creates a syphon/vacuum), then vacuum the gravel (using the python) while removing 20% of the water. Next you set the tap water temperature to the same as your tank. Put chlorine/chloramine remover into your tank, then you turn the end on the python, it makes the water go through the hose and into the tank. Once it's full, you shut it off and your all done.

It sounds kind of like a long process, but to clean and water change a 20 gallon tank, it takes about 3-5 minutes or less a week.

Really the key is to not overstock your tank and have good filtration. Good filtration makes for easy maintenance and happy healthy fish.

Re your questions:

• I noticed that one side is bubbling furiously and the other side bubbles every 30 seconds or so in a burst. If the side bubbling furiously is nearer to the air pump then it might not be strong enough to push air to the end, especially if it's far away from the filter. Check for airline kinks or blockages in the filter too.
  
• Do I really need to remove all my decorations every time I do water changes/clean the gravel? No.
  
• What size siphon/gravel cleaner should I use and do you have any recommendations? I have three of these and have no complaints. I use them with squeeze siphon starters as I have floating plants I don't want to disturb by using gravity to start the flow.
  
• When I reach in to my aquarium, do I need to wear gloves? Wash or rinse my hands? The proper answer is that you should wear gloves as fish TB and other diseases are communicable to humans. That said, most folks just rinse their hands and arms well before and after reaching into the tank unless they know there's illness in the tank. Use soap and rinse it off well if you have perfume, lotion, or any chemicals on your skin.
  
• When preparing water to refill after cleaning, do I need to use a thermometer to ensure the temperature is equal or will a finger test suffice? An extra thermometer is $2 so I'd get one. Better safe than sorry. I keep one by the sink for water changes and it's made me correct the temp more than once.
  
• Is this appropriate given my tank size/filtration? If you just had the biowheel I'd say your filtration might be on the light side depending upon how you stock (8x-10x tank turnover per hour is suggested with HOBs) but paired with a UGF I expect it'll be fine. You can play with stocking calcs on AQAdvisor.com. (The "one inch per gallon" rule is bunk, FYI.)
  
  A few other things I wish I'd considered before starting:
  
  
• Filled tanks are seriously heavy. A 20g will weigh at least 225 pounds. Think long and hard where you want it and make sure your floor can support the weight.
  
• If the tank's going on furniture (as opposed to a tank stand) get Plexiglass cut to size to cover and protect its surface. Water will splash and drip during maintenance.
  
• Be proactive in having common medicines on hand to avoid frantic searches for them when they're needed. I always keep things like Kanaplex, Furan-2, PraziPro, Paraguard, methylene blue, and clove oil on hand. (I prophylactically use Prazi and Paraguard during QT.)
  
• Dip and QT plants to mitigate the risk of bringing snails and illness into the tank.
  
  Good luck and have fun!

I am like you, and have done DIY until very recently. Spend the money. You won't regret the purchase. I was only slightly over 100 bucks on mine, but it was worth every penny to be rid of the hassle. The only issue with the valve I'll recommend is that you can't go over 1500 PSI even though the bottle I'll recommend is rated for 1800. Make sure to mention that when you get the bottle filled. The regulator is only rated at 1500. Here is what I bought.

CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
CO2 Diffuser

So yea, some tips. Don't fill tank over 1500 PSI. Make sure green knob is all the way in off position and it's not plugged in when you screw on the regulator. Screw on the regulator ALL THE WAY. Plug regulator in, slowly open the green knob. This assumes you have all the tubing hooked up. The bubble counter is super handy :) It only costs me 5 dollars to fill up the tank at Dicks sporting goods store. So after the upfront cost, I can run multiple tanks with a splitter off this, for a 5 dollar every few months fee. Totally worth it for the consistent bubbles and lack of hassle from DIY. If you get a timer, you can plug your regulator and light into it and you can control when the CO2 and light come on. You just need to trust us man, 130 bucks for this is worth it... so worth it. The bubble counter comes in the regulator I linked. The only things you'll need to buy other than what I posted for a 100% system is silicon tubing to link it all up, and maybe some suction cups. I didn't list this because that's a few dollars at most on Amazon. Don't listen to the 300 dollar crowd, my system is sub 150 and works just as well as theirs.

Would highly recommend a system.

Haha I was confused for a second. When you want to make a post make sure you are into the text box for the thread and not someone's comments. You will be more noticed.

Butttt Lets see what I can help you with...

1. Larger the tank, easier it is to maintain water chemistry. Generally you want to do a water change weekly. I sometimes get lazy and will wait longer between water changes. When it comes to filters you want them to be larger than your aquarium. So, 75g tank you'll want something rated larger than that. You should not have to dismantle anything. I use I use this for all of my water changes.
   
   Also to this point I noticed you want a lot of different fish. Be careful. A lot of schooling fish like to be in groups of 6+ and some fish have anger issues. Using this stocking website will give you a good idea of how many fish you can have and if they work well with others.
   
   And then plants! Live plants are great to have. Make sure you look into them. Some get their nutrients from the soil while others get them directly from the water.
   
   
2. This hobby can be expensive. Without Black Friday my current set up would cost over $1,000 and that's not including lights. Since you are looking for a 75g tank make sure to keep an eye out for dollar gallon sales at petsmart. They happen every few months. You'll also want to make sure you have a sturdy enough stand for it also. When it comes to fish, just take a peek at petsmart website. Must of their fish are $3 to $10. If your town has a Local Fish Store (LFS) you may be able to find better deals. For plants, keep your eye on /r/AquaSwap for deals. I personally have had great success with /u/butteredscrimp. If you give them details on your tank and how much you are looking to spend, they will put together a package for you.
   
   
3. On the side bar there are a bunch of helpful links you can look through. Besides the ones I posted above some other ones are: Guide to Starting a Freshwater Tank, Fishless Cycling.
   
   Currently at 2365 characters and probably my longest reddit post. It is a lot of information and if you have any questions do not hesitate to ask!

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

That would be an extremely large diffuser. Maybe those dimensions are for the box rather than the diffuser itself. Your best options outside of a powerhead are a bubble ladder or a ceramic disk diffuser. Bubble ladders aren't very efficient so you'd need more CO2 and they take up more space. Ceramic disk diffusers are small and some work for DIY, but most DIY systems cannot output enough pressure.

If you have access to a power outlet I'd suggest something like this. You can just poke a hole right above the sponge and insert the CO2 tubing. As the CO2 is generated it'll get pushed into the impeller of the filter, which breaks it up into tiny bubbles that diffuse quite well. This is what I use on a 5 gallon and its reasonably efficient. I mix 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast, 1/2 tsp baking soda (these are estimates since I never remember my actual mix) every 10-15 days. If you're curious about how I setup the diffusion I can take pictures when I get home and send you the exact quantities I mix.

It's really tough to give a solid answer for bubble rate because it depends on diffusion method. This is part of why no one ever agrees what the proper mix for DIY CO2 is. Different diffusion methods are radically different in the final amount of dissolved CO2. If you're using a moderately effective diffusion method one bubble every 10-15 seconds would be good. Just so you have some information to work with on 20 gallon long I do one bubble every second diffused through a powerhead. On my 10 gallon I do one bubble every three seconds diffused through a ceramic diffuser underneath a powerhead. For my 5 gallon I do one bubble every 5-10 seconds diffused through a filter like the one I linked above.

Sorry for putting such a huge amount of info. Hopefully you can get some good ideas out of it.

One thing I've seen over and over is that Dwarf Hairgrass needs pressurized CO2 in order to get an established carpet so you really might want to consider that. Our set-up consists of an AQUATEK CO2 Mini Regulator, 2 Empire 20oz CO2 Tanks (which are the same as what they use for paintball and very cheap to fill - and they last for months), a Reactor 100 diffuser (our Fluval broke...sucks), a Fluval 88g Bubble Counter, and a Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit. You'll need airline tubing too and a drop checker. It very simple to set up and use, if you'd ever consider it and your hairgrass would love you for it...but it really looks like everything in there is thriving so nicely!



Hairgrass also needs light so maybe cut back on whatever is blocking light from getting down to the hairgrass. If you do go with CO2, make sure you shut it off when your lights aren't on, since the plants can't use it without light and watch the indicator so you don't gas your tank and fauna. CO2 would also help regulate your pH, which your shrimp would love. Mine holds at a steady 6.8.



Maybe you could cut back your sword a bit and plant some of the runners in another tank, or if you don't have one, maybe you have a friend that would like some?



I think your tank looks great, a little jungly, but I bet the shrimp love that! Love your variety of Fauna!



Good luck!

Lighting/Electric

1 - Apollo 180W LED Grow Light This thing is painfully bright, even when you're not looking at the light itself. Without a grow tent to block the light I wouldn't be able to share my office with this light when it was on. Previously I've had issues with the grow tent and HPS/MH lighting, since over heating quickly became an issue. I tried some solutions involving air ducting and vent fans, but these didn't really help a lot. These LEDs fortunately put out almost no heat, so I don't really need to ventilate in the tent.

2 - TaoTronics 25*3w LED Grow Light (They don't seem to sell it on Amazon any more). Sort of painful too, but not as bad as the other one. Tent or some sort of light-blocking device is recommended if you share a room with your greenhouse.

3 - EnviroGro 2 ft T5 Flourescent These things are awesome. Great value for the money and everything seems to thrive under them.

4 - 8 Outlet Programmable Power Strip Highly recommended! Way better than those timer ones.

5 - Hydrofarm 2 Outlet Air Pump which actually has splitters on the lines coming out of each outlet, so the pump is providing air to all four homemade units.

Hydro Units

A - 1 gallon bucket DWC currently growing brussels sprouts. No actual sprouts yet, but it seems to love the LED lighting. Slightly concerned about the space its trying to take up.

B - 1 gallon bucket DWC currently growing bell peppers. Peppers have just started blossoming earlier in the week and I've been vigorously vibrating the tree each morning to pollinate them. Got a few small peppers starting to come in already. Slightly concerned by how lopsided the plant is growing, but otherwise it seems to be thriving.

C - DWC I made from a tupperware container. Just planted some cilantro in there earlier. For some reason all of the Cilantro I've gotten previously has failed to germinate. This time around I put out about 30 cilantro seeds on a paper towel and waited until I saw some starting to sprout before planting. So far so good.

D - 2 site DWC unit I made from a storage bin. Just planted two additional basil there this morning since I am using much more than 2 plant's worth. Been making quite a bit of pesto lately.

E- 3 site Aerogarden currenly growing curly leaf parlsey. I took off the light that comes with the plant, since the T5s have a way higher output.

F - 7 site Aerogarden currently growing two basil plants and one oregano. Same as the three site aerogarden, I just use this for the base. This one can hold 7 plants, but I fine that having so many means they crowd eachother like crazy.

Tent

Mylar grow tent

Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.

It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!

A gentle filter, I find, is pretty much vital in any tank, whether it's 1.5 gallons or 20. Without one, you'll have to do water changes of much higher volume and far more often, and not only is it annoying for you, it can be more stressful for your betta to constantly have to be acclimated to new water. You can use a power filter and baffle it with something so it's not so harsh, but I recommend a sponge filter, they are gentler, quieter, easier, and a hell of a lot cheaper. I have a 4.5 gallon tank (Such a strange size, no?) and I use this with a tetra whisper air pump. I'm rather fond of the filter I have now, as it suctions to the tank wall and leaves more space for him to explore, and it's easier to clean the gravel. As for tankmates, it depends on the personality of your betta and what he works best with. Mystery snails are popular as they help keep the tank clean. Tetras and shrimp are also popular. You can only experiment. My guy works awesome with the snail in his tank, but others have had their snail mysteriously murdered. Experiment with it, see how he does.

You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.

I have:

• a 10 gallon tank; with two goldfish; a water jet; airstones; automated feeders; and an eheim filter- supporting two house plants
  Imgur (left side)
  
  
• another 4l0L (10 gallon) with two or three yoyo loaches (rescued); a panda catfish; and an algae eater- that supports a large windowsill planter of growth media holding mint/shisou/thai basil and has a eheim filter for extra biomass and 2 water jets; airstones in the tank and biomass area; and an automated feeder
  Imgur (middle)
  
  
• Finally an outside setup with 150 gallon tub with 5 goldfish (rescued) that runs through PVC pipe with about 10 net baskets with heads of lettuce and an automated koi-pond outdoor feeder.
  imgur
  
  These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
  
  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
  
  The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
  
  It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
  
  This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
  
  100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
  sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
  
  The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
  
  
• Petco often has dollar-per-gallon sales and there's usually tons of tanks on craigslist etc if/when you decide to scale up.
  
  
• Automatic feeders make the process less hands on:
  ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
  
  
• A water pump to run the fish water through the growth media might do your tank very well and are quite cheap, this one is 8usd: http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponic/dp/B00EU74MJY/
  
  
• Additional biomass:
  
  
• This filter (15usd) might add a little additional biomass, which makes your aquarium a little larger and helps breakdown the ammonia etc: http://www.amazon.com/TM1250-Aquarium-Internal-Power-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8/
  
  or
  
  
• (25usd) http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Rapids-Canister-hang---tank/dp/B000YJ0M1E/
  
  
• Again waterflow (helps with algae) then something like this is about 9 usd: http://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Circulation-Maker-Water-Aquarium/dp/B009YEEW2K/
  
  Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
  
  

First grow.

This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.

Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.


Edit 2:

Photos of my setup.

• http://i.imgur.com/fc8wn1B.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/HmUWGgR.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/nOcwlPm.png
  
  
  
  Edit 1:
  
  Some have asked about my setup. This is about everything. This is my first grow so take my suggestions with a cup of salt but this stuff has worked well for me.
  
  Tent:
  
  Zero complains. Very happy with this. It just fits perfectly into a closet (had to remove the hanger bar though).
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6WCMY
  
  
  Air
  
  
  
  Carbon filter:
  
  The inside of my tent stinks. I smell absolutely nothing outside. Don't get caught. Get a good carbon filter. Maybe not this one, but something.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVJK60
  
  
  Inline fan:
  
  I hand this outside the tent. No need to take up any space or add any heat inside the tent.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ14F8
  
  
  Variable xformer for fan control:
  
  This allows me to control the noise and airflow. Every other fan controller made the fan buzz. This thing is quality built. I keep it around 50v.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
  Circulation fans:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTMD8C
  
  
  DWC
  
  
  
  
  Bucket top net pots:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XIIGC
  
  
  Air pump:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC
  
  
  Airline:
  
  The black just prevents light from getting into my res.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4XTUU
  
  
  Air stones:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HJ7Q6
  
  
  Check valves:
  
  You NEED these. Many airlines are thin enough that if the power goes out or a hose becomes disconnected, capillary action might permit water to back-flow into your electrical air pump and/or just flood your room. Don't take chances when a .50 cent valve will protect you. There are some horror stories in the aquarium hobby about this. Note, even if the air pump is higher than your res, capillary action can pull the water up through the air hose. This is the same principle that allows 100ft trees carry water from the roots to the canopy.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977J508
  
  
  Lighting
  
  
  
  Lights:
  
  Word of warning. Start off a good distance between the lights and your canopy. These product more light than you think and I have burned and cooked plants from keeping these too close. They don't product a ton of heat or anything. I think it's just too much light if they aren't a good foot or so away from the canopy. I assumed I could practically lay LEDs on top of my canopy. Not so.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFLCXS
  
  
  Adjustable ropes for lights:
  
  Chains work, these are just faster/easier to adjust.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
  Tools
  
  
  
  Temp/humidity sensors:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8
  
  
  pH pen:
  
  I used to do chemical reagent tests (I have tons of aquariums so I had it laying around). Never again. A pen is fucking awesome for dialing in pH every morning. Get one!
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQISYQO
  
  
  Pruning snips:
  
  These are great. Sharp as fuck and solid.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76
  
  
  Training wire:
  
  What I use for my scrog screen and early training before the screen goes in. Also good for random shit that's temporary enough I don't want to waste a zip tie.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EXJ652
  
  
  Nutes/Water changes
  
  
  
  
  Pond pump:
  
  This is another must have! I've been using these for a while now to handle water changes in my aquariums. It's also awesome for mixing nutes before they go into your DWC. I drop one in a bucket without a hose attached and then just dump all my nutes and such in. The pump does all the mixing. Then I adjust the pH a little. Give the pump about 10-20 seconds to mix my pH up or down in and test again. I don't have to worry my pH adjustment isn't probably mixed yet. I makes the mixing process so easy and fast. I also use these to pump out my res once the scrog screen is in place.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSL0
  
  
  Root protectant:
  
  One of my early problems was with brown algae. This cleared it right up after a week.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGFH3FG
  
  
  Syringes:
  
  No guess work. I know exactly how many ml I'm adding.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3CV6
  
  
  Cal-mag:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2CUPW
  
  pH control:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
  Nutes:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBT54
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7U02
  
  
  
  
  

An air pump and stone are cheap, and should solve your problem. Air bubbles are totally key in hydro reservoirs.

Also try to keep the temperature of your reservoir (and your whole grow area, unless you have CO2) below like 80F or you're gonna have a bad time. This applies to soil as well.

Consider trying a non-organic fertiziler. Organics are great and can give better results, but they expensive, and more likely to crap up your system and smell weird (in my experience).

Soil has a whole bunch of drawbacks IME. It can be stinkier indoors than a well run hydro system (especially if you use awesome worm teas and such). You'll probably get a lot more bugs, especially fungus gnats. You have to be more careful feeding the soil plants, because if you feed them wrong, it's not as simple to detect and fix as with hydro. It's also amazingly easy to overwater in soil.

You can get awesome results with soil or hydro. I personally prefer hydro because it's easier to keep clean (once you get a good routine set up), and the plants grow really fast with great results. If you really aren't cool with the hydro setup you've got going now, consider coco drain-to-waste instead of actual soil.

TBH I’ve been doing aquascaping for several years. This is the first time I’ve managed to successfully get the carpet and hair grass.

Here are a few pointers and pitfalls:

Pointer:
Use a soft, nutrient dense substrate. I use aquasolum black humate (a Seachem product).
Pitfall: Avoid using course gravel like Flourite. It’s too think and heavy which prevents the roots of a carpeting plant like hair grass from being able to spread runners and creating new growth sprouts. This was the single biggest reason all my other carpeting attempts failed. Black sand would work as well. Whatever it is, it needs to be soft enough for roots to be able to spread easily.

Pointer: Use quality lights. I use 2 x Kessill Tuna Sun lights. Those are crazy expensive and may be over your budget. I’m sure there are cheaper options.
Pitfall: Don’t use cheap lights which fail to produce adequate FULL SPECTRUM lighting.

Pointer: Use a filter that moves a lot of water like a canister filter. I use a Fluval 207.
Pointer: Use quality filtration media. The absolute best of the best is this Aquarium Filter Pad - Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHIOM8A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Coupled with this

Polishing Filter Pad 100 Micron -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014G7WTRY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pointer: Use CO2 injection. I use DIY CO2 and it works fantastically well. I use this
Estink DIY CO2 Generator Aquarium Plant System Kit D201 Tube Valve Guage Bottle Cap for Aquarium Moss Plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHTPDbPFZBQHC
With this
ISTA Intense Flow CO2 Bubble Counter suction cup hanging - aquarium Solenoid diffuser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZZROHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dKTPDbN38ASP5
With this
JARDLI Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with Bubble Counter for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1HTPDbHP2BECM
With this
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uITPDbXA0Q9JE
With this
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Unscented Box, Boxed 1 Lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YCILXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJTPDb4VRBT2Z

Pointer: Use filtered water preferably from a reverse osmosis water dispenser. I own 4 x 5 gallon jugs which I fill up to use for any and all water changes.

Pointer: keep your water immaculately clean. Like 2 water changes per week which includes cleaning your filter media.

Pointer: don’t let any algae start to build up. I use a toothbrush to brush off algae growth from rocks and plant leaves.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions!

I bought a 8 gal long from a local store last week, it cost me 30 bucks, 5 gal long was 25. I'm (Canadian) in Korea atm. That being said, you can get a 5 gal for 20~30 bucks shipped to you. Petsmart has a 10gal for 15 bucks That being said, mine came with a lid, I don't know if yours will, but you can make a cheap wire mesh/plexi lid for ~5 bucks at home depot, I'm not a fan of glass lids since I'm a clutz.

Heaters will also run you about 20~30 dollars for a good one, but you can get them cheap for about 10 bucks or so. Adjustable ones are great because they shut off if it gets too hot in the summer.

Lights: don't think too much on it. You don't have to get one that fits perfectly, and you don't need a professional aquarium lamp from the get go. You can pick a reptile lamp for under 10 bucks if you get them on sale. Unless you're going for a planted tank you don't need to spend 60+ bucks on lights and you don't need Co2. Hell, a desk lamp suffices.

Filter: bettas love slow water, I'd get a sponge filter like drysider said. pump is about 10 bucks, filter is 10~30 bucks depending on brand. air pump example Sponge filter example

I said some of this elsewhere but for lighting I have the finnex fugeray in 10" As well as a Marineland Penguin 100 filter. pretty basic, ya know. I have a diy CO2 system going using a fluval diffuser which is a really good diffuser. I also have a sponge wrapped around the intake of the filter to protect my invertibrates

For substrate, I just have some black diamond blasted sand. I have a piece of mopani driftwood that I searched months for! Found it in Petco, funny enough in their reptile section, though it said for aquarium use.

flora includes: Water sprite, Baby tears, Dwarf baby tears, Microsword, Duckweed, and a couple others' whose names I cant remember right now.

fauna includes: 1 oto, 6 cherry shrimp (so far!), one nerite snail, and a handful of malaysian trumpet snails. Very happy crew.

I dose with excel about once a week, and feed the shrimp part of an algea wafer every few days.

The one I was referring to comes with a little valve in the line and an adapter to connect it to your sink. I'll find a link when I'm at a pc.
edit: Here's the link

Little fish could go up it, but just be careful. It doesn't create a huge suction or anything.

As far as plants, both Java fern and pretty much any species of Anubias would be easy to care for and help out your tank. Anubias is a slow grower which means it won't use up a ton of nutrients (nitrate, etc) but Java fern should pull a little more out. There are also floating plants you can look into that work well. Honestly for this stuff /r/plantedtank is a great resource

Just a heads up, that turtle is going to get very big in the next year. The flotation piece will not hold the turtle and you will need something bigger. It will work for a few months but it is something I wish I knew.

Also, the bigger the filter, the better. I waisted so much money because I thought fish filters would work. I can't see what you have but spending the $100- $150 on a huge filter is 100% worth the investment. They are also quieter. You can't even hear it once it is going. The bigger filters also have all the clay and carbon and such that fish filters lack (which is important for your turtles health).

Keep in mind that the UV light only lasts 6 months. It will continue to work (be on), but not actually be doing anything to benefit the turtle.

Also, I totally recommend this product. It is absolutely amazing. I mean anything like this will work, but this requires no buckets. I used to lift my turtle tank until I upgraded to a bigger one. This also saves me so much time.

This looks awesome!

I don't have too much to input, but I do have the same setup (Aquatek Mini) and I can vouch for it. I haven't had any issues, but I have heard that the Customer Care is great. Also, my paintball co2 lasted about 4 months in a 29g.

Adding some references...

• http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1380759544&sr=1-1&keywords=AQUATEK+paintball
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_3
  
  
• Also --> Grab a tank at your local paintball/sporting goods store.
  
  
  Profit!
  
  EDIT:The regulator comes with a bubble counter, but for NOT come with tubing! You will need to buy the tubing, diffuser, and the co2 indicator. Amazon sells everything you need and is free shipping with their Super Saver option.

Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.

My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.

I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.

I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.

The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.

The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.

To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.

You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.

It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.


tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes

Edit: Also, Watch this video

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

These filters will take up most of the side of a 10 gallon so they're pretty big. The single filter can do 10-15 gallons so two duble ones should be good too! (also, these have 10 larger rings per sponge, others have only six or seven and are much smaller (you can count using the darker, thinner places between them in the pics)). They may cost a bit more but they're quality as far as we can tell. I've heard they may last two years or so, even up to five years.

We're using this pump in the 40-60 gallon size and it has a 4 part gangway on it. It's running three of the smaller double sponges and two breeder box lifting tubes. It's decently quiet, sounds almost like the fridge when it turns on. Just recently got louder so we threw some towels in with it and it quieted down nicely. Doesn't get too warm either.

Now for the set-up. see that clear tube that ends 2/3 of the way up next to the larger tube? That's where you will stick an air pump line. The air bubbles will get ejected into the tube and end up in the bottom of the large tube. They will then go upwards, drawing the surrounding water up with it. This action draws water through the sponge, filtering it. I would recommend that you put this as deep as you can in your take and have the exit tube barely submerged but as high as you can get it. My engineering student mind thinks that it will draw more water this way.

I'm happy to help any way I can.

Started seeds in early november. Put in the system around november 8th. the last pics in that album were around nov 16th, so about a weeks worth of growth. i pulled out the lettuce tub today to clean it up and i'm gonan replace it with a DWC bucket for some cherry tomatoes. here's pics of the peppers in their current state http://imgur.com/a/NY6xR . insanely bushy and got a few peppers and a TON of blooms that are quite healthy.

the lettuces were a mix of Perpetual spinach (A type of chard, it did insanely well), some oak leaf, some butter crunch, and some romaine. The lettuces did pretty well, but I think I was overcrowding the tub. Also, most of those lettuces really didn't do too great with the "cut and come again" type harvest, but the P. spinach did GREAT. You could slice off the outer edge leaves at the base, and the next day it'd be back to growing new ones at a crazy pace. I think next time, I'm just gonna do a tub full of it cause it was not only delicious eats but grew very very well. Lettuce is just so damn cheap at the store that it was not very practical to grow in the tubs, which is why I'm pulling it out to start some cherry tomatoes. With as good as the peppers are doing, I imagine a cherry tomato plant in a DWC bucket will thrive quite well.

Here's everything else I'm using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS07T5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB2TL08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKCQJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The nute levels were around 1000-1400 (Meter seems to fluctuate). I have hard water with a base PPM of about 160. The nutes I added had calcium/mag added, so I was a little worried about possibly too much calcium since my water definitely has plenty, but nope, no issues. Big healthy green leaves and fast growth. No root rot as well. Only issue so far is aphids. Lots of the little fuckers. Going to my local hydro store here today to try and figure out a solution

The fluval CO2 system requires you to use disposable co2 canisters. The system comes in two sizes, 20 gram and 88 gram. Depending on the CO2 requirements of your plants, it could end up getting a tad expensive. You may be able to get away with it on such a small tank, but it the long run it may be cheaper to purchase a larger, refillable system.
Assuming you go with the 20 gram kit, which is recommended for up to 15gal. That's ~$28 + S&H. Assuming you are conservative with your CO2, You'll probably use 1 canister every 2 weeks. A 20 gram 3 pack is $14 + S&H. Over the course of a year you will spend ~$145 + S&H for CO2. Over 2 years, that number will be around ~$250 + a lot of S&H. Plus, if you decide to upgrade your tank, you'll also have to upgrade your CO2 system.
If you have the money to spend up front, you'll save yourself time and money in the long run. Get a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank from Amazon for $21. Get it filled at your local sporting goods store for ~$4. Get a diffuser from Amazon for ~$11. Then get a Paintball CO2 Regulator from GLA for $189. One fill up on your tank is equal to more than 34 20 gram canisters from Fluval and it only costs about $4 to refill, and if you have a Dicks Sporting Goods near you, 5th refill is free. Total cost is $221 + S&H, but that regulator is quality made and will last you years.
This is the set-up I use on my 7.5 gal and I'll be honest, after all other methods of "low cost" CO2 injection failed me and wasted my money, shelling out $200 for a regulator was quite painful, but this was the single best purchase I've ever made in my 20 years of keeping fish. So, if you can afford it, or can wait a bit and save some cash, it's worth it.
The simple fact that Fluval wants to charge you 13.99 for just over 2.1 ounces of CO2 when you can get a 24oz tank filled for $4 should make you question the purchase of their system.

Might be worth mentioning sponge filters. Tetra Whisper air pumps on Amazon run about 7 bucks and the sponge filter itself will run you all of 3 bucks and you don't have to worry about replacing cartridges or anything so that's really nice and easy for beginners!

I would recommend Seachem Stability, too! Great way to help a tank get cycled faster which is a great thing when you're fish-in cycling.

These are the plugs you want. 1/4" fittings

[This is the type of tubing you use with the plugs. 3/16", close enough am I right? lol] (http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Airline-Tubing-Accessories-25-Feet/dp/B0002563MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383142677&sr=8-1&keywords=air+pump+tubing)(the clear tubing used for air pumps is a lot easier to work with than the black plastic tubing, which is stiff and likes to bend)

You got a good pump (same as the one you already picked, comes with 5/16" fitting, damn close enough), use plumbers tape and silicone (Waterproof glue) to seal it completely.

Digital timer is good.

I don't think the poly tray will fit all your plants during flower? (you have 4?).

Check out target for different size sterlite containers(for watering trays), those clear plastic ones, see which ones are a good size for you, and home depot/lowes for reservoirs(in the storage section) I don't see those online is the reason.

I would basically set my plants up exactly like in the picture. Tray on top of the reservoir. Drill a hole in the tub cover. Line up the holes, basically what you already presumed.

Picking up the one on the left in this photo might not be too bad of an idea either. If you can find one locally that'd be the cheapest option, hydro stores usually carry them.

My life became a lot easier and my tank became a lot cleaner when I removed the substrate. Your turtle doesn't care about the rocks on the bottom of the tank, and it may try to eat any that are small enough.

That being said - it sounds like you guys are doing 100% water changes, which is overkill (and removes the bacteria that make up a good environment). Most people recommend 20-50% water changes depending on how dirty things are.

If the rocks are river rocks, then I'd just fill up a bucket with the rocks and carry that to strain/wash them. You can use a traditional hose with suction to empty dirty water, or something like this python aquarium cleaner. Basically you hook it up to your sink and can fill up a tank OR drain it using suction. You may not have a sink that has the right threading though - I had 2 apartments where it wouldn't work and now I need an adapter, but its amazing.

You could also get a better filter. Getting an external canister instead of the internal ones that hang on the side (which never stay on...) was a huge plus for me.

There are probably also water vacuums that would help. But I don't know of any.


Easiest thing though is to get rid of the substrate. Stick to doing 30%ish water changes instead of cleaning it completely. Perhaps upgrade your filter (you should probably have a filter rated for a 80+ gallon tank).

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

Fishkeeping can be really high effort or really low effort, depending on the animals you choose, the tank size you choose, the filter size you choose, and how much cash you're willing to shell out.

I have several tanks, and my largest tank is definitely the easiest to maintain (my Python does all the heavy lifting for me). My smallest, my ten-gallon, is definitely the most energy (gotta keep that sand clean, goddamn it), but even that one isn't more than maybe 15 minutes every couple days.

My recommendation to keep everything low-energy: pick easy creatures to care for and do not overstock. Get a GOOD filter, with way more filtration than you need. If you're starting out with the right stocking and equipment, everything else will be easier. AqAdvisor is a good resource for a beginner who is trying to figure out stocking stuff. Aquarium Wiki also has good info on stocking a 10-gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0OJ9X8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second one is much smaller than it looks online, I was worried about size but it fits with ~2 inches to spare on either side on the side wall of my 10 gallon. It's just wider than my hand, and shorter with the telescoping tube down all the way.

As for the air pump, I'm like 99% sure it's the tetra whisper 10 gallon, but I'd need to find the box to be sure. I have it ran to a splitter that also allows me to adjust the airflow through the pumps like this.

You'll also want a couple of check valves, they basically ensure water won't backflow into the air pump and fry it out if the power goes off. They're basically little plastic cyclinders you connect the air tubing to, air can flow one way but not the other.

If you run a HOB with it, I'd just do one, probably the first link since the HOB would provide the circulation in the tank. You might want a smaller one though, that one's about 3 inches in diameter and takes up a good chunk of the back corner of my tank. I planted around it to make it less noticeable, but might be a little big in a 5 gallon.

Hey friend! I skipped a couple because others have answered.

1.I have no experience with that brand, but if you decide to replace the filter this is a great one for a 5G with a single betta. Low flow sponge filter, very little noise. I have it in two betta tanks.

4.Pellets make less of a mess. 3-4 pellets a day, I try and split it into two meals. A betta's stomach is about the size of his eye, and they bloat very easily which can cause health problems such as swim bladder issues. A lot of people fast them once a week. Of note, they can go a few days without food fairly easily, so it's better to fast over a short weekend trip than to use one of those little dissolving feeder things, those are awful.

6.(and 7)You can easily do pool filter sand (won't affect the water chemistry at all, betta will not eat) with a bunch of different low tech plants and not worry about much else. This is my 10G with ludwigia, wisteria, anubias, and amazond sword. No tabs, no CO2, I just turn the light on and off. Java fern is also a great low tech plant. I'd suggest not overthinking it at first. You can certainly do more with ferts/CO2/etc if you want, but you don't have to.

8.Live plants won't help cycling, but they will help lower your nitrates once the cycle is established. You want to cycle with no fish in the tank, using straight up ammonia with no surfactants in it, asit allows you more control over how much ammonia you're putting in. You can speed up the process with either a piece of filter from someone else's cycled tank, or with additives like Safe Start and the like. There is a ton of info on cycling in the Helpful Links, so check that out.

Cheers!

This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.

Unfortunately turtle poop is sometimes too big to be picked up by a gravel vacuum :( I use one too, the biggest one the pet store has, and it'll get little pieces but I still scoop up larger pieces (and shell scutes that have shed) with an old fish net. My gravel vac now is mostly used for emptying the tank into buckets. People recommend these for bucket-less easy water changes though.

And yep, I use sand! A little bit of sand has gotten into my filter but that's mostly when I'm too impatient to let the sand settle before turning the filter back on after cleanings. It's important when you first get sand to wash it really well in a bucket to rinse out all the finer particles ("dust") that don't settle quickly. If you rinse it well enough it won't cloud the tank except for a little while after first adding it. I keep my filter intake a few inches above the sand. A little bit of sand got into my filter's motor and I was able to get it out. I use Fluval and you can buy new parts for their filters, so if I broke the motor I'd have to only replace that instead of a whole new filter. I don't know about other brands, but that gave me a little peace of mind about the sand.

And yeah, turtles are little bulldozers!!

I actually ordered everything individually from Amazon. I’m sure you could probably find everything locally as well but it was easier for a newbie like me to get it all from the same place.

Aluminum CO2 Paintball Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J3vBDbY97P8E0 - $22 ( + $5 to fill with CO2)

Aquarium CO2 Regulator with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7P8TL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $53

AQUATEK CO2 Paintball Tank CGA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $12

aFe Power Magnum FORCE 54-11473... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $18

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6vBDbMW07193 - $8

Century 24 Hour Plug-in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $9

Aquarium Carbon Dioxide CO2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9DGXV0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $11

Total: $148

Again, total newbie and this is the bare minimum of quality and price I was comfortable with. I plan on upgrading to a bigger tank and a better regulator in a few months. Do your own research too.

I was recommended this Beamswork light on here awhile ago and it has been great for me for the last year or so. If you are looking for a budget light this one has been great for me so far.

As far as co2 goes it is super easy to do honestly. It only cost me about $100 to set mine up and it is great knowing I can put almost any plant in and it has a chance. I am currently starting a carpet in my tank since I've had the co2 setup for awhile. Here is my setup:

But here is a copy pasted comment explaining my setup and links to all the parts I used that I gave to someone else:

Ok. I'll try to type out my whole setup.

The biggest parts of the setup are the tank and regulator. I use an Empire/Tippman co2 tank with a Double Sun Hydroponics Regulator.

Now, aquarium regulators aren't made with paintball tanks in mind, but most sporting goods stores won't refill tanks above 24oz due to safety reasons. So instead of buying a 5lb tank that no one can refill, I just use a simple Aquatek Paintball co2 adapter to attach the regulator to the tank I have. So for that part of the setup you just attach the adapter to the regulator and then after you fill your Co2 tank attach the tank to the adapter, done (make sure the regulator is plugged in and everything is tightened if you have already filled the co2 tank). Do not attach the adapter to the Co2 tank first, the adapter opens the tank so you'll just empty your Co2 into the air. So attach everything to the Co2 tank last lol.

I also use teflon tape on the tank threads and adapter threads just to help prevent any loss of co2 through the adapter. It probably wouldn't leak without it but I would rather be sure so I just wrapped up both pieces before the install.

Now that you have your regulator/tank setup we just need to get the co2 into the aquarium. I attach Aquatek co2 tubing to the bubble counter that comes attached to the regulator and attach it to a Rhinox check valve, this prevents any water from getting to the regulator, then run co2 tubing from the check valve to a Rhinox co2 diffuser, this condenses the co2 into tiny bubbles so it absorbs into the water.

Boom, almost done. We have co2, we are getting it into the tank, but now how do we know how much? We need a NilocG co2 drop checker and some Drop Checker Solution to put in it. This will come with a card that says the proper colors. I would suggest starting with low co2, check the next day, if the drop checker is still blue, increase the co2 a tiny bit and check again the next day, repeat until it turns green, yellow is bad and you might gas your fish so don't increase co2 too much at a time to protect the fish.

I use a syphon hose. Right here on amazon

I would like to add that I live in Spokane,WA. And use tap water every time.

After every water change I treat my water with Stress Coat

I own 1 Oscar, 1 Red Jewel Cichlid, 1 Convict and 1 Pleco in my 75g.

As far as moving the fish, nothing changes when you go bigger. The steps listed above are perfect. My best advice is, if the fish store can hold the fish for you until you set up your tank at home, do that. Other than that you're just at a race against time from the moment the fish go into the bags. You benefit from being close to your LFS, so don't worry! And post pics when its done!

The best treatment is probably a better environment. Bettas need warm clean water, which is very difficult to maintain in a bowl.
ammonia will build up too fast (can lead to overall health problems and increase the chance of bettas getting ill). Regular fish tanks with cycled (cycling doesnt mean replacing the water but letting the right bacteria colonize the filter media)filters have bacteria that convert the ammonia into nitrate. This post has more information on what you will need, but in short:

1. a 5 gallon aquarium or larger
   
   
2. a filter (a small sponge filter, powered by an airpump is a good option).
   
   
3. a heater (adjustable, a 25 watt or 50 watt will do fine, get a thermometer as well).
   
   
4. dechlorinator (like seachem prime, it removes chlorine from your tapwater)
   
   
5. a test kit (like the API master kit, to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate).
   
   
   Until he's in a better tank, do large daily waterchanges with dechlorinated water. Aquarium salt and antibacterial medications are also very effective against these kinds of infections but might not help much if he stays in the bowl.

At one point didn't transthetics have the option to buy detachable balls that could be added to their prosthetics? I could have swore that was a thing but looking at their website now I don't see it. It sucks because that would hit everything you want.

I have a couple freetom prosthetics. I've never heard of anyone that offers to add an ejaculation system to posthetics you already have unfortunately. You might be able to DIY some sort of ejaculation system for them? Like if you filled something with lube and put it in the shaft and squeezed the shaft, or maybe put it more in the base with a tube going up the shaft. Using a tube like that would be the only way it could work if you also wanted to use the insertable rod that comes with freetom prosthetics. My first thought is one of those little cake pipette things like these with a tube attached, maybe like this or this? Kind of similar to the idea of combining the peecock pleasure rod with a freetom but hopefully without the problem of pieces of it sticking out or not fitting right, and without having to buy a whole second prosthetic. No idea if that would actually work or not though. I also found this link talking about another method of piecing together different parts of different packers, but using cheaper products, maybe that would work?

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:

A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:

>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER

That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.

Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.

And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.

Let's price this out:

• Grow Beds - they're not using box beds, they appear in the pictures to be using black pvc sheeting, like for ponds. 250 ft sq - $150
  
• Water Pump - Dr Nate from Bright Agrotech says moving all of your system volume once every two hours is okay. if you have an 8 inch deep grow bed filled to 2 inches below the top of the medium in a medium that takes 60% of the space in the container that would be roughly 320 gallons, so you need to move roughly 160 gallons an hour, and you'll probably want to move them three feet up. So using Pondmaster pumps (a pretty solid brand I see in heavy use) you'd use the Pondmaster mag Drive 3 - $65
  
• Air pumps - fuck it, use whatever. If it won't kill aquarium fish, it won't kill aquaponic fish This looks like insane overkill, let's buy two, then add air tubing and a fistful of junctions and Four of these air stones and call it a day (I measured NOTHING and I don't regret it, everything I picked was probably insane overkill) for a grand total of $125 for the air setup.
  
• A patented electrical panel? We'll use a surge protector. $10 if we're fancy here.
  
• A pound of worm castings - $6
  
• Two pounds of Azomite Mineral Dust - $12
  
  And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
  
  Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
  
  Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.

Very cool write-up, thanks!

Your diffuser is very clever, but even for a DIY system, I personally recommend to buy a diffuser. I tried about half a dozen different DIY diffusers, and eventually decided to just give in and buy one. I am currently using the Fluval Ceramic one, and will never go back:

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

$20 got me the diffuser, plus 3 replacement ceramic disks. Mine has been running for a month, and makes a ton of tiny micro-bubbles. I placed it at the bottom of my tank under my powerhead, and my plants absolutely love it.

The only drawback to this diffuser is your Co2 system needs a LOT of pressure for it to start working. If you use it, make sure you are using thick bottles and well sealed air lines.

Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?

I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.

Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.

- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap

- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.

- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.

If you can get a small gravel vac, that will help a lot; you can drain into a bucket. I highly recommend getting a siphon starter because it's a pain to get the siphon going in a small tank. You should be able to find a small size siphon at Petsmart/Petco but Amazon does have some as well. The siphon starter fits on the end of the siphon tubing and you squeeze it and it helps get the siphon going. Hugely helpful in my opinion. You can also use airline tubing in a pinch but it's a lot slower. I've also used small paint buckets (can find at Lowe's/Home Depot and similar places), they're usually found around where other buckets are including the 5 gallon standard buckets, or cheap plastic food storage containers that are devoted only to the aquarium (use them to scoop out water when I'm not doing a gravel vac). Plain 5 gallon tanks are often sold at Petco for around $15.

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

To piggyback off of Betta fish, besides the tank you can get your filter, heater, and light for pretty cheap.
Here's what I have:

filter
Air pump
light
heater

Altogether it might not be the cheapest items, but they work fantastic for me and my Betta and shrimp tank. Plus it costs less to get good filters and supplies first than it is to buy a beginner set and upgrade everything over time like I did.

this is what it all looks like in my tank.

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

Okay this is easy then.

Don't use tap water for anything at all.

1. First we need to get your TDS down to where it should be.
   We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
   
   You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
   If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
   
   Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
   
   Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
   
   Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
   
   This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
   
   
2. Top off water with RO/DI water. Dont worry about pH swings you will have enough kH in your water that it will be a non issue.
   
   
3. Neos are pretty hardy. You could probably go 3-4 weeks easy before you will need a water change depending on how much crap you add to your water. When your tank gets to 250-300 TDS (or 3-4 weeks depending on which happens first) it's time for a water change.
   
   
4. When doing a water change the end goal is to make sure the TDS will end up between 200-250 TDS. It's a little bit of a guessing game (since I hate sitting down and doing all the math) but lets say your tank is at 300 TDS. I would do a 20% water change and when I am adding new water to the tank I would add gh/kh+ to the new RO/DI water until the TDS was 120-150. Once I added that to the tank the tanks TDS should normalize to about where I want it.
   
   A few pointers about your tank:
   
   
5. You will want a new filter. From the picture I saw I would araid of shrimplets getting sucked up into the big cracks you have on the filter you have. I would suggest a small aquaclear and to purchase one of these (http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/)
   
   
6. I would purchase a small air powered filter (http://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS) or (http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78)
   
   The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
   
   I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
   
   NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.

O wow! That is amazing! I hope mine looks half as good as yours lol. In response to the cuttlebone and catappa leaf in the filter, I didn't realize you could add things inside the sponge filters. I'll post a link to the kind of sponge filter I decided on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2JDO6NECWVBL2&colid=OAA927L82TRN

I was intimidated by the line from the sink thing for years, and lugged 5 gallon buckets back and forth every week. I finally paid something like $40 for one of the large tubes that hooks up to your sink, and my life has been much better since -- as have my fish. Honestly, just get one of these (or something like it) right now: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC You can save yourself a world of pain down the road -- I really wish I had done it sooner.

Brief exposure to chlorine while things are mixing up isn't going to hurt your fish. With all of the chemicals, I swirl them a few mls at a time in a pint glass full of tank water (I keep a "fish glass" next to the aquarium) then dribble that concentrated solution around the tank while I mix it in. My biggest concern is making sure the fish don't get a facefull of algae eliminator or something that could actually cause pain/damage them.

The water temperature is a little tricker. You can run back and forth between the sink and the tank and do water temperature comparisons before you actually flip the switch and send the water over. After it's flipped, I hold one hand under the "new" water coming out and another at the opposite end of the tank, and make any fine-tune changes I need to then.

It will be okay, especially once your tank is cycled. In the meantime, the Prime will help.

As far as a filter, standard sponge filters are highly recommended, or you could get a little internal filter like this one, I love this particular model

I love that it has a spray bar, I've used that in a 2.5g and aimed it at the wall. Definitely no baffle needed.

I used to have the one you have and I was very unhappy with it as well. Too many bubbles!

Good luck...hope he feels better soon.

My only suggestion is use a very simple air powered sponge filter, they are just a couple bucks, your aquarium will be crystal clear and very happy.

those are the best biological filters for the buck and micro setups work awesome with them, here is an example from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

You could get something like this, or even something half that size, and then a super cheap air pump. Sponge filters are air driven. But yeah, for ten or fifteen bucks you could easily have a good sponge filter set up. They are great for shrimp and most serious shrimp breeders use them.

That’s really unfortunate:( I hope he recovers. If you’re in the market for a new filter now, I definitely recommend a sponge filter, something like this. They’re probably the lowest-risk filter types and are often used for breeding delicate fish fry. I’ve seen plenty of people get away with using normal filter gear with bettas, but horror stories like yours have convinced me it’s the safest option for my boys.

Best of luck to you and your Betta. Don’t feel too bad - it’s not your fault that crazy shit like this happens sometimes. I hope he pulls through.

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

I saw the solenoid was listed as "8.99" and I was like WHAT, I WILL TAKE 10.

Typo, I gotcha. $84.99. Yarr.

Setup looks okay.

Two suggestions:

1. From personal experience is instead of a diffuser, use a reactor.
   I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU00529-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B005DGJEGC - I find it disperses the gas a lot better than a diffuser. Also, it's an inline thing, so it's in the cabinet under your tank and doesn't look ugly.
   
   
2. Get actual cO2 tubing. Regular airline tubing will work, but will degrade over time from the gas. You can find it anywhere you can find normal airline tubing. It's usually black or clear.
   
   I have a 40b too, and a 10 lb tank. I have to fill it about every 6 months or so. Costs about $23 where I am, just to give you a base point.
   
   Good job, enjoy!
   
   *Edit: Oh, forgot to mention. If you go the reactor route, you'll need a bubble counter. Also, get a drop checker to ensure levels of cO2 in your tank are good.
   
   Bubble counter: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K
   
   Drop checker: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Checker-MONITOR-sakkara/dp/B00OO2FUFK

You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:

• a small sponge filter. They look like this.
  
• a small air pump, like this.
  
• "airline" tubing to connect the pump to the filter. Like this.
  
• an airline valve. Like this. You'll need this to lower the amount of air being pumped to the filter. For a 6.6 gallon tank, you don't need much air to keep the tank filtered. Start out with the valve all the way open (lots and lots of bubbles, the tank will look like a hurricane is blowing through). Then, slowly close the valve until the water looks calm and the fishies don't look like they're fighting a current.
  
  The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.

This is crazy, cause I had this list put together, let me know what you think of this stuff? May go with your diffuser tho as it seems cheaper, is it also a c
Drop checker or do I need to get one of those too? Also, should I be dosing stuff on top of this CO2 setup? Like should I use Excel and other stuff still?

Ohhh ok, wasn't sure if you tried cutting the top off of it or not.

JT CO2 Tank 12oz w/repeater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-t03AbGZWQRJ7


Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iu03AbTZCMEKR

CO2 Regulator Aquarium Mini Stainless Steel Dual Gauge Display Bubble Counter and Check Valve w/ Solenoid 110V Fits Standard US Tanks - LP150 PSI - HP2000 PSI Accurate & Easy to Adjust Comes w/ Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6HKTN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fu03AbFC8ZJ3S

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xu03AbX7A0N5G

Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with U-Shape Connecting Tube for Aquarium Planted Tank (20 - 50 US gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LZOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dv03Ab406ZNJT

AQUANEAT 25 FT Airline Tubing Suction Cups Control Valves Tee's Check valves Aquarium Air Pump Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z8ZR9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sv03Ab2DJ19BC

Rhinox Brass Check Valve for Aquariums - Sturdy, Reliable, Anti-Leak, Anti-Backflow, Non-Return CO2 Air Valve That Ensures One Directional Water Flow, Perfect for Sensitive Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHXW5SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gv03Ab2QEHCZQ

Aquarium salts can help with fin rot. Macaryn Two is also a good choice. Be careful with aquarium salts though. Don't dose every time you do a water change like normal medication.

Also, I second the sponge filters. You can get one for a 10g one (which I'd recommend because the more filtration, the better) for like $5 on amazon. Plus you'd need an air pump which are also relatively cheap.

-Sponge Filter

-Air Pump

Might as well get these net pots that you can just place on top of your bucket so you dont have to worry about making one and risking light leaks.

Might need tubing for the air pump, not sure if it comes with the pump or you didn't include it in the post, but I'd go with black instead of clear.

Also, get yourself some cal-mag with those nutrients. I just started my first DWC grow too but I also bought Canna Rhizotonic and liquid silicon to go with the nutrients at the suggestion of a few on this sub.

If you want to get reallllllly in depth on full spectrum LED's, this site has a lot of information on it and their list of best panels to go with, even though I didn't go with any of them and just got the Mars 300 anyway.
And don't forget your trichome scope!

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.

Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).

Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.

I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve

tubing

valve

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I have a DoubleSun regulator, which works, but isn't the greatest. It does what it's supposed to do, but it's really touchy, so you have to fiddle with it for a bit to get to the exact setting that you want. It has a solenoid, so I have it set up on a timer to come on 2 hours before the lights go on, and 2 hours before they turn off. It runs about 9 hours per day.

The CO2 itself was tricky to find, because I live in the middle of nowhere. After a few weeks of looking around, I found out that my local NAPA auto parts store has a partnership with a company that supplies CO2. I got a 10 year lease on a tank (and tank swaps when they need refilled). It's a 20 pound tank, which will last me a ridiculously long time, and the 10 year lease was $90.

When you take the plunge, one really important thing to keep in mind: get CO2 specific hoses. I was using a rubbery generic one that was meant for regular air pumps, but it turns out those leak CO2 like crazy. I switched to a hose that's specifically designed for CO2, and the difference is pretty dramatic.

When you get a diffuser/atomizer, do yourself a favor and pick up 2 of them. That way, when one needs cleaned, you can just hook up the 2nd one while the 1st is soaking in a weak bleach solution. I have 2 of these, and the key to keeping them in good condition is not touching the ceramic tops. Just soak them when they need it. I only have to clean mine every 2 months or so, but it varies from tank to tank.

> honestly, I wouldn't put him in there, get him something around 5g and he'll be soooo stoked. even a full gallon would be passable.

Agreed x100. Basing a 55 around a SINGLE FUCKING BETTA is a huge mistake imo. You can do so many cool things with a tank that size, why limit yourself to what gets along with the most basic of basic predatory fishes? You probably would not ever see the betta anyway, they become much less interested in you when they have a big tank + friends + things to look at inside the tank.

Also OP get yourself a python (for water changes) you'll thank me later.

Yeah definitely - I did a fishless cycle for about a month, using only the Fluval overflow filter that comes with the tank. This was great for getting the bio filter stabilized, but the water flow was too strong for a Betta and the mechanical filtration was weak. So I went to my LFS and purchased a KollerCraft TOM Mini Filter, and ran the Fluval system simultaneously with the KollerCraft to ensure the bio filtration transferred to the KC. Since then, I unplugged the Fluval filter and have only run the KC - and it's much more effective filtration. As for lighting, the 7000k LED light that comes with the tank is fantastic, but it's too close to the water line in my opinion. I had nasty algae blooms for a couple weeks, then came across a fellow Redditor who 3D printed the extension for the Spec III. I immediately requested one and received it in the mail a few days later. The combination of the KC Tom Filter and the light extension has resulted in no algae for 6 months. The most important factor is water changes though, so you should be changing 20-30% of the water every few days to keep your water parameters in check. Does this help?

Since I don't have a filter or heater on the tank, I was thinking of using the airstone just to ensure there was some water flow through the tank. Plus it would assist in CO2/O2 exchange. I'm still considering using the airstone, though you are right that limiting airflow is a must. Have you ever used an air flow regulator (ie. https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Control-Single-4-Piece/dp/B00880E10E)?

Thanks for the plant ideas! I think for now I'll let my tank cycle and settle in for a month or two before I decide on what plants I'd like to add. My goal is to have the back covered in Vals and the front left covered in DHG. Other plants would just be a bonus! By the way, I did pull the Anubias up out the substrate a bit to ensure the rhizome was uncovered. Since the roots were fairly long, I didn't have to tie it down.

In regards to shrimp, I have a few ghost shrimp but I still find them hard to see. I'd love to go with a few RCS though! How many do you think would be initially appropriate for 2 gallons?

Never seen that before but it seems kind of redundant. I'd go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427215003&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BWPVxOqPL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

That is the style sponge filter I always see breeders using and they seem to know what they are doing. Easy yo clean too just squeeze it out in old tank water.
I have one of these that works fine too and I can alternate cleaning the sponges so I don't upset the bacteria too much.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427215003&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41bviD0w8GL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

I basically did what's in this picture, outlined in this thread here. I used this pump.

This method---honestly, I don't know how anyone could get it to work. Using 3/8" line for the lifts is the problem. I fought with this for HOURS and couldn't make it work. Now, like I said, the pump does fine on its lowest setting, maybe I'll make a video too. I could definitely throw a 4 gang splitter and run more lifts, no problem---I'd just need a different reservoir. (I have a 19 month old...so...I need to mitigate spill risk, lol.)

What I did differently was to use 1/4" line for the lifts as well as the air intake. I wound up having to use a connector (because I already had the lift lines in place), but if you were smart you wouldn't need to. At first I was afraid there would be too much friction this way, but it goes just fine.

The 2 air lines come in from the bubbler and get e-taped to a dowel, which is about level with the top of the reservoir. One more bit of tape at the bottom, we're just making a loop. The hard part is not kinking the line but still being able to fit it in the jug. as it goes back UP the dowel, the ball-pumps pierce it at a steep angle (I actually ground them down so they'd pierce better), the little 3/8" pieces of tubing are just at the bottom of the reservoir. The idea there is you want it as low as possible, but also with some length so that it's easier for the air to go up the line than out the water-inlets.

As it travels up the down, it's taped again, just to keep everything straight. It goes up the sides of the bottles, and goes through a melt-hole in the side of the top bottle, rather than coming in from the top. Water is delivered directly to the grow block.

The two bottom-most bottles have additional pieces of 1/4" line coming from them (I used "Sticky ass glue" for the seal, which is basically just gorilla glue but stronger and cheaper) to a T, and then the bottom of the T drops back into the reservoir.

That probably doesn't make any sense, would it be worthwhile for me to video it?

I have this DIY system and it works great (for what it is).

https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Aquarium-Plant-System-Bottle/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152996&sr=8-2&keywords=diy+co2

CO2 levels are definitely not as stable as a pressurized system, so you have to give yourself some headroom so you don't gas your fish.

My pressurized system is a cheap 5lb co2 tank (co2 place exchanges it when I need a refill). My regulator is by Azoo and it works great. The needle valve isn't as precise as some higher end systems, but this is about half the price as a UNS or GLA.

https://www.amazon.com/aquarium-Pressure-Regulator-Magnetic-Valve/dp/B018QQ5SI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518153313&sr=8-1&keywords=azoo+regulator

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

Buy tank separately, filters, heaters, and lights that come with tanks tend to be low quality so buy separately. I'd say go with 10 gallon for two reasons.

1. A 10 gallon is $15 while a 5 gallon is $13. Two dollars for 5 more gallons seems worth it to me and if petco is doing a $1 dollar per gallon sale than the 10g tank becomes $10.
   
   
2. You could also add other fish in the 10g like a small school of neon tetras, a couple of guppies and or mollies. A 5 gallon is too small for any other fish because most other fishes small enough to live in a 5g like space to move around so they won't be comfortable.
   
   I buy all my supplies on amazon cause i have prime and it's cheaper, i'm a college student so cheapness is everything. This is a good cheap filter and this is a good heater i also recommend a digital thermostat cause it's easier to read the temp rather than squinting your eyes to see the tab thermostats.

Yeah co2 can cost up to 200 or so for a proper setup, depending on size and quality. I just got co2 running on my 30gallon for incredibly cheap though. Look up the citric acid and baking soda co2 method. It’s incredibly cheap, pretty easy, and it’s just as reliable. I’ll send you an amazon link to the equipment I’m using, gimme a sec to update this comment

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s the main part of the setup. All you need are powdered citric acid and baking soda(I bought it at Walmart, but there are much better deals on amazon) and two bottles(I used 1L coke bottles). Then you just need the usual diffuser and check valve. I bought the tropica 3-in-1 diffuser which works pretty well, but it’s not great. Certainly worth the cheap price though.

Over all, I paid around $30 for the whole setup

I've ran the CO2 tubing directly into the intake of my HOB filter and it did "ok". I eventually got a fluval ceramic diffuser and it's been terrific. I still keep it below the inlet of the filter but the bubbles are much smaller. I also tried using bamboo chopsticks as a diffuser and that worked pretty well but occasionally it got clogged but very inexpensive and easily hidden.

You may want to invest in a Python hose. It hooks straight up to your faucet. When you're removing water from your tank, it sends the water straight down your sink drain, but when you're adding water it connects to your faucet and goes to your aquarium.
No need for buckets, heaters or spilling water. Pretty easy.

They're a bit pricey but well worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467132484&sr=8-1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changer

I'll preface by saying that I know nothingn about salamanders. A hang on filter will pour from the top and probably look cluttered, so I'd try other options first. You could make some sort of waterfall, but it might get really messy if the salamander is always wet and muddy. Not sure, but if you find a way to make it look nice, it might work the best.

A cheaper option would be a sponge filter, which unless you DIY, you'd need to buy the airpump, tubing, and sponge filter online, this would unfortunately have a lot less flow. Here is another alternative and probably what I would do, internal filter. You might prefer a smaller variety, but I chose this one just for reference. What about floating plants btw? Salvinia especially might be a nice plant, but I'm not sure if it will be safe/left alone. If you'd instead like plants under the surface, there's marimo balls, java fern, and anubias. These are all low-light and impossible to "deroot" plants.

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

Sponge filters are great for biological filtration! I'm cycling with a small corner sponge on my 10gal with pond snails. Unfortunately, sponge filters are crap for actually pulling old food/poop/dead plant matter. You'll have to stay on top of vacuuming the bottom of the tank during water changes. It gets very, very messy.

As for the actual sponges, see if you can find the two-sponge varieties such as this one here. That way, you can clean one sponge at a time and not worry too much about crashing your cycle. I would also recommend getting a larger pump than recommended for the size of the tank - I use a Whisper 020 (rated for 20 gallons) and it still doesn't have much pulling power, so detritus as mentioned above. But the bubbles vented from the top of the sponge filter disturb the surface quite a bit. I had to replace the mesh topper with a glass lid to keep the lights dry, or keep the water level at 75% filled. Boo.

Another thing to consider is the noise of an air pump. HOB filters hum and make waterfall-y noises, canisters are almost completely silent, and the air pumps hum and buzz no matter what you do. Some things to think about. Good luck! :)

Dr. Tim's is fine, but if you can find pure ammonia locally it will be much less and you may need more than what's in that bottle if your cycle didn't go as planned. I have found, in addition to the Ace hardware ammonia that is generally recommend, that my local Dollar Tree has ammonia without anything else added.

Other than that, if you're going to use an air pump, I've been using this HPumps pump in my 5 gallon and it's fine. It also came with a length of nice, flexible silicone airline tubing rather than the stiff stuff you have in your cart.

> Please list ALL the basic equipment for pressurized CO2?

• Cylinder
  
• Regulator
  
• Solenoid Valve - can be bought separately or as a unit with the reg.
  
• Check Valve
  
• Bubble Counter
  
• Diffuser
  
• CO2 resistant tubing
  
• Timer plug
  
  I use a CO2 fire extinguisher rather than a normal cylinder, but it's essentially the same.
  
  Only real downside is the ongoing cost. Other thing to think about are balancing CO2 levels when the lights go off, but that's easy enough to accomplish with the timer plug.
  
  Cost for me was about £100 all in, but I got lucky with some cheap CO2..

Nah, never skimp out on airstones and filtration. Female bettas are solitary except in very large, heavily planted tanks, they are very aggressive fish too. High quality pellets like hikari pellets should be alternated with frozen food, my bettas usually took both. Flower pot is for a hiding cave, and ducky might be too bright and stress out the fish. Natural decor looks prettier imo than man made stuff anywho, especially if you do it right. Never use test strips, they're expensive and innacurate, liquid test kits are the better option. Basically add seachem stability to the water for as long as it says, and put fish food in to make ammonia for the bacteria to feed on. Once you hit 0 ammonia and nitrite you're good.

For filtration supplies my recommendations are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP8W84/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5060PXA17HMGYQ77ABQ&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M73HJGY41F3HX940NJJG&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076S3D75C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539721622&sr=8-4&keywords=small+airstone&dpPl=1&dpID=41QZJrnKZZL&ref=plSrch
And of course seachem prime and stability

I’ve also seen a guy on YouTube with like twenty tanks, all with this filter and he preaches them like crazy. I’ve never tried them, but the low maintenance and bacterial perk makes them very attractive. That other sponge filter that was just posted looks good too, and might take up less space. The downside is that you have to put them in the water, which might seem unsightly if you care about that kind of thing.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010PRHDWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549773339&sr=8-6&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Jjb7PLjlL&ref=plSrch

theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind

Diffuser System

glass co2 checker

drops co2

bubble counter

The glass spiral diffuser

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-Proof-Tubing-16-Feet/dp/B008UCOFJW

It's pretty good- I've done research and can't figure out which tubing is the best otherwise (like what can be picked up from a hardware store)

Check out the python water changing system! Get a hose length that will reach from your tank to your room. I recommend also purchasing the green hook that makes refilling easier, as well as a longer siphon attachment (my personal opinion. Not necessary.) It has made my life a million times easier. What I do when I refill is attach the hook, and run my temperature matched water back into my tank. About halfway through being refilled I will dose the full amount of my tank with dechlorinator. No more buckets!

Python water changer

Watch some videos of this system on YouTube so you can get an idea of all of its parts and to see how it works!

Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).

Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511318178&sr=8-3&keywords=air+pump+fish

I'm running this filter and it's great.

I do water change once every week and water stays really clean.


The current may be a little bit strong, so I have bunch of floating plant to alleviate that.


As for evaporation, I need to add around 1/3 cup of water every 2~3 days or so for the water to remain at around 90~95%.

I am quite happy with the following (I use on a 10 gallon and a 3 gallon at the same time using a T-fitting and two diffusers and two indicators):

Diffuser @$16.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFUGE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This diffuser is good for hanging on the side of your tank. There are many others to choose from.

7 day timer @$14.65 (Three prong plug for regulator solenoid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHEHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You DO NOT want to let it run overnight because they say it will suffocate your fish.

CO2 indicator @#17.89 (need one for each tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9KWTHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 proof tubing @#9.99 (regular tubing may leak CO2!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UCOFJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid @$69.99 (Yes, this one works great at that price) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N42JPDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adaptor fitting to get regulator attached to a paintball tank @$9.90 (I had to modify this part, so pay attention): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paintball tank @$21.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dicks Sporting Goods will refill for $5 using your tank.

The issue with the adaptor is that the one I got had a bleed-off relief hole too far down in the threads such that the hole was exposed even when the tank was fully screwed in because the thread depth on the tank was shallow (fewer turns total) compared to the adaptor, Had to plug and re-drill the hole.

You should at least look at these components as part of your evaluation.

Have you considered a python water changing system? I love mine, it's saved my back for sure. Plus you can get the tubing from any hardware store too!

I looking at this, that, and the other one, but honestly if I swing by Petco tomorrow and they have a nice rimless I might just pick that up. I already have a filter and heater on the way because I just measured the water temp and it's 70! Just make it to Tuesday, little fella.

Not to one up you, but your right.

I only use hose to rinse and wash. Anything that becomes beer is from Deer Park, until I get a whole house filter.

What I do recommend is this contraption
I have found so many good uses for this thing, but brewing seems to be where it just shines. Its great for cleaning in kegs, and other equipment.

It breaks in parts, so I use the short piece hooked up to the sink unless I need to siphon.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

Even better, get yourself a Python. These are designed for aquarium cleaning but work amazingly well for for pet bath time.

Don't get me wrong, removable shower heads are good too, but if you're only getting something for your pet and not the both of you, this trumps all.

Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.

Here a amazon link where to buy it:

https://amzn.com/B0056XVF82

Here a youtube link about it:

https://youtu.be/Rc5aICDyorM

But you do need an air pump for it.

The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.

I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.

If you plan on a small tank, I recommend this filter. Really good and totally silent. I have a 2.5 gallon tank right by my bed and I can't sleep with lots of noise, so it was perfect.

Can't say for certain if that will be good. It might create too much current. I've had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82

Get one of these: 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gZxtybDR5SQEG

You need to treat the water as it goes in, though. Once the tank is established and you do smaller water changes, I usually put the chemicals in as I'm filling from the tap. But I know the parameters of our tap water and know exactly what will need to go in as far as pH balancing etc.

The main thing is really just to monitor everything closely. Check the water from your tap before you move the tank. The nice thing about the python is that it aerates the water so that there isn't as much chlorine before it hits the tank. But you still need to add a water conditioner (I like Seachem Prime).

For the first adding of water, you want to preserve as much of the microscopic flora and fauna as possible. In my original comment I didn't add this, but don't scrub the tank or remove the sand if you can because colonies of beneficial bacteria live there. And then slowly add water of the proper temperature and acclimate your fish as slowly as possible.

I did a DIY sump filter that you can find plans for all over the place.

https://imgur.com/a/o4DED

I have a siphon overflow on my aquarium with a small pump attached to it to prevent losing it's siphon or restarting it after power failure/water changes.

The water flows into the top draw of filter floss for filtering, then trickles into the second drawer over top of plastic scrubbies and finally into the the third drawer where it is filled with lava rocks that are permanently submerged in water. A water pump returns the water to the top of the tank have the process repeat itself over and over.

I further ran a small water line (think freezer ice maker water line) that constantly tops off the tank from evaporation and cycles the water to some extent to the point where I do water changes about every two-three months. In the second photo of the sump you can see an overflow tube that takes any excess water down to my basement to a drain there. Water changes every couple months isn't so much a necessity as the water clarity and pollutants really don't change in that time frame but I do it for peace of mind/get the gunk the guppies aren't eating off the bottom.

For water changes I can't recommend the python enough. It is crazy how easy this has made water changes for my aquariums.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506469996&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changing

3 gal is on smaller side for betta alone, without cories. If your room temperature is less than 78F/25C, heater for betta will be needed, any 25-50W heater should be enough. If you can get adjustable heater and it will keep temperature at 80F (not all of them do), even better.

With fish, having something for water flow and mechanical filtration is better than not having it, place outflow near heater for an even temperature distribution in the tank.

Fish will poop, cleaning has to be done, water changes too. Waiving tubing above substrate should not disturb plants and helps with collecting waste.

Sponge filter is good enough, especially T-shaped, it will bubble too. For running it you will need air pump and check valve to prevent siphoning water out if there will be power outage and air pump is below water level.

If internal water filter, it should have not too high flow, 10x tank volume per hour, not more, IMO. Hang on the back power filter like Azoo Mignon 550 or Deep Blue BioMaxx Nano will work too, flow is adjustable.

See r/nanotank for aquascaping ideas, it takes time and some resources, but the result is well worth it.

Regulator, bubble counter, dual gauge, needle valve built in one. - $57.99 - I've read the more expensive the better, but this one has worked great for me.

Inline Diffuser - $39.99 - I use this to attach to my tubing on the canister filter. Much cheaper if you go with a regular diffuser that goes inside the aquarium.

C02 Tubing - $9.99.

I bought a 5 gallon filled C02 tank from a local welding store for about $60.

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Heard good things about this: Python Siphon

Hooks right up to your faucet. This guy gives a pretty nice review about the set up and whatnot.

I use this one. It comes with two different heads and an adjustable flow. I wouldn't recommend it to anything under 4-5 gallons because otherwise the current is too strong (in my two gallon jar my fish was blown around and never seemed to get a rest). Cartridges are hard to find but most people recommend to never replace it because of the good bacteria in it but I do replace the carbon in it 1 time a month.

What size tank is that? In my experience you have to seriously overdose iron to keep even a reddish color, I use seachem iron added to the minor elements while estimative index dosing. With that light if your tank is less =< 18" tall, you will need some carbon added. You may be able to get away will excel for a bit but long term going with an "estimative index" fert and co2 injection will be cheaper and easier.

Also, swords are heavy root feeders so you definitely need to get some root tabs for them the grow and flourish.

This is my current co2 setup that's easy to put together and only cost a few dollars every few months to fill for my 29g:

Empire Paintball 24oz CO2 Tank - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM

AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G (Note you can choose a different diffuser if you want)

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW

Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886

Yes. If you perfectly replicated the design in the video, all you would need to do is put an air control valve somewhere in the airline and turn the bubbles down. His design is a bit overkill. A single stream of bubbles would be enough movement to keep the water in the cultivator fresh.

This is my air pump
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TCC46U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these are the stones
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Yes I am going to increase the ppm slowly. My plant doesn't respond well to high nutes. I am doing the lucas formula so it has been working great except the calcium deficiencies.

Ahh, I see. So something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_7keywords=Inline+CO2+Bubble+Counter&qid=1567725222&s=gateway&sr=8-7 would be better? Thanks a lot

EDIT* If I do decide with the rhinox bubble counter, could you link me a coupler or adapter?

like this? - https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
do you think i'll have any luck finding something like that in the retail pet stores or should i just get it off of amazon?

This is the best but it's also kinda pricy.

I have Marina pumps and they are more quite than the tetra ones. And they are super cheap.

Awesome! Does this tubing look better?

Thanks for your feedback!

This is the one I use: Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUCzyb0RP1WZ4

Works well for me. It cleans easily with a peroxide soak and some shaking. I clean it and change indicator solution about every 3 months. The glass is pretty sturdy, haven't had any issues yet.

I know Indian Almond Leaves and weekly water changes is the cure. But I don’t know where he cut himself. I’m thinking maybe it’s the new filter I just put in there (Koller Products TOM Aquarium Internal Power Filter (45 GPH Flow Rate) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8jKDb4E065GH). I just don’t know HOW he could cut himself on it. 🤔

The only other things I have in the tank are: driftwood (with no sharp edges), hairgrass (spikerush) and Amazon Compacta’s.

I guess I should try sponge filters again... But the one I had before didn’t really clean the tank and they make others, but they’re huge. Or too loud. My tank is 5 gallons, 9.6 in L x 9.8 in W x 15.3 in H and it’s just Semper with an otto.

Any recommendations on small sponge filters that clean well and quiet pumps?

What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.

If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.

The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.

ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.

Ah yes, you will need one of those. I was viewing those links with my phone and I thought the indicator was the bubble counter. I'm sending out a few items from the post office tomorrow and I have this Fluval one that I'm not using. I don't mind sending it over to you if you're in the US. PM me. It would be my good deed for the week :)

I bought this one for my mom's tank that has worked out really well, I think it's this is the one. Pretty much any basic sponge will do. You can also DIY one really easily!

This is the exact one I ended up upgrading to.

https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Commercial-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1526058157&sr=8-12&keywords=air+pump

I was worried it would be really loud. But with the unused nozzles closed off, it was barely louder than the 2x 4 gallon/hour pumps I had before it. And it would turn my resevoirs into foam baths. I got these airstone "rings" that are a porous plastic material wrapped into a ring and then to the middle where you attach the tubing. They were the same diameter as my 5g buckets. And using those with that pump created a REDICULOUS amount of bubbles in my res. I forgot the name of those rings, but you can make em yourself. They are 100x better than every airstone ive ever come across. They do seem to clog a bit easier tho.

If you have the money to spend I would recommend the Python. It hooks up to your sink so it's just a matter of pulling some levers.

Other wise, ten gallon storage containers + armless rolling chairs work well for me. Dechlorinate in the ten gallon then use one gallon containers to pour the water into the tank. And a siphon is a must!

Due to the small size of a 3.5g, this may suit a bit better in terms of fit.

Alternatively Aqualighter's aLift sponge filter is similar and may (subjectively) look better.

Finally, if sound is an issue; I am running an aquaclear HOB with a makeshift prefilter sponge on my 3.5g cube (CRS) which is much quieter than a sponge filter.

Got this pump (https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728450-Single-Outlet-Commercial/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481570695&sr=8-1&keywords=ecoplus+air+pump) and 2 additional airstones today.

Each bucket will have 2 of the large cylinder airstones.

My question is: Is it best to have 2 air lines running to each bucket or can I put 1 airline and T split it into the 2 airstones? Does the efficiency change if I split it in 1 line vs 2 lines?

Simple Deep Water Culture System:
Tent = anything like this
Bucket = anything like this
Air Pump = something like this
Air Stones = some of these
Air Line = sure, this
Nutrients = General Hydroponics Flora Nova Grow & Flora Nova Bloom (available at any hydroponics supply store - expensive to buy online)
Lighting = so many options, this is a great starter light MEIZHI

Lemme know if you wanna consider Ebb and Flow - not much different overall but a cool system.

I just bought this filter for our ten gallon and it's perfect size and our little guy loves hanging out under it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rnlzub08GN49W

You can find all sorts of siphons and hand pumps on Amazon.

Python 13PS Squeeze Siphon Starter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0017JHPA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_COsOBb2PW0VG1

SEINECA 8mm Fuel Line Pump Primer Bulb Hand Siphon Diesel Gas Petrol Pump Rubber and Plastic for Car Boat Marine Outboard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07G26VFQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6LsOBbQY7ZYZ0

Update*

So started the tank on liquid ferts and diy CO2. CO2 is running at about 10 bubbles per min right now. Its running off a 2 US Quart bottle, bubble counter, and diffusing through this Ceramic Diffuser. Hopefully I should see some progress on the growth of the vals soon and I will post again when there is something noticeable.

As far as your dechlorinator goes, check out Seachem Safe in place of Seachem Prime. It is essentially the powdered form of Prime so it is more concentrated and lasts forever. That 250g container treats something insane like 50,000 gallons of water where the 500mL bottle of prime treats 5,000. And this is by no means essential but the Python water changer is an amazing tool and has made water changes so much easier and less stressful. As far as substrate if you go with sand I would use pool filter sand, you can get a 50lb bag at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $6. I use it in all of my tanks with no issue. I have read that the play sand can be quite a bit messier and take longer to settle, though I have no personal experience with it. Good luck!

ok, something like this could work
http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter

or this

http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-1&keywords=sponge+filter

Could work, keep in mind these are just examples and there are several brands out there that are similar in price and might have better shipping

OP, I'd avoid the Marineland because it has a built in filter. I'd get the Tetra and a nano filter like this one.

I have that filter on my 2 gallon tank, and it's pretty spiffy. I just keep a few cherry shrimp in my little tank.

5 gallons would be enough for a single betta, dario dario, badis badis, or similar solitary fish. A couple of guppies would be fine, but DO NOT mix male and females unless you enjoy being overrun with fry. There are 'micro' fish, too, that you could stock three or four of, but I'm not familiar with any of them.