Reddit mentions: The best aquarium filter accessories

u/ShySquids - Continued comment:

For your next adventure into betta-keeping, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND this tank: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html 5.5g tank

My bettas love theirs! https://i.imgur.com/6M2Qu58.mp4 <-- Here's my pink-red combtail boi Raiku, wiggling super excitedly in his 5.5g tank :)

OR better yet: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262353.html (comes with bonus 50w adjustable heater too, so one less thing to buy)

Just be sure to mod the included filter like this: https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4

With these (or similar, but aquarium-specific) materials:

- https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-SPEC-Biomax-2-1-ounces/dp/B0049RNW96?th=1&psc=1

- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R38MMXG/

- https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0100-Bonded-Filter-312-Square-Inch/dp/B0002565PW/

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OR better yet:

Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).

https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ My bettas (and I) LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!

AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).

https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.

See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the above sponge-filter setup as it provides excellent filtration + is very gentle on the betta. (IF & when you get this filter + all the stuff to run it, let me know and I can walk you through the setup of it in full details at that time).

Your 3g tank, while it certainly wasn't the worst, is still well below the minimum tank size we recommend for betta here, which is 5 gallons. As I explained before, a smaller tank requires far more maintenance than a larger tank, and is also far less stable in the nitrogen cycle which can result in issues with water quality.

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I hope you'll start your next betta tank adventure with either the 5.5g or the 10g kit (or larger lol) and FISHLESS cycle. The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

Must-Have items for your Fishless Cycling process + Additional Info:

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

Optional but might be good to consider getting: Dr. Tim's Ammonia (for fishless cycling)

Hey, first off, KUDOS to you for doing the research FIRST. It makes it SOOO much easier doing it this way!! (That was not meant to sound condescending btw, but totally a good thing because too many people don't and then sadly have to come here for help (the help is ok of course but we've all been there too when you need immediate help! And it just reduces the likelihood when you do the research in the beginning.

Good list, I have a couple tens and a tight budget so hopefully I can help.

Tank: Check. Lid: Check. I like the Aqueon tanks because the VersaTop lids fit them! I learned the hard way the Petsmart tanks are like 1/8 of an inch longer and those lids fall thru or are too big, can't remember which is which lol.

Filter/media: I have heard not great things about biowheels but don't remember what or where. Maybe you could do a search here on reddit in case I saw something here. But, regardless of that, I would still suggest an Aqueon 20. Higher gph at 125 instead of 100 and a larger box, so you can fit more media inside it. Even if you got the cartridges in the beginning, you'll eventually give them up for better media and it will give you more room for a mesh bag with ceramic rings or something else. I have 4 Aqueons (two 10s, a 20, and a 30) all of them very quiet. Don't bother getting the cartridges. Go for better media. It's a little more $ but it's worth it. And the customer service is fabulous. My first one's motor seemed to be slow after 3 months but the store's return was 2 months. I called them and they sent me a new motor for free. And you won't have to replace the media really (not never but maybe after several years) vs the cartridges will eventually get so mucky they are disgusting after a month and water won't flow thru them anymore. You could just get this kind. This will save you $ in the long run so you don't have to keep buying cartridges. (just take out the blue plastic)

Heater: I know Eheim is supposed to be good. The reviews didn't seem that great on Amazon for that partic heater though (?) Heaters seem to be on sale at Petsmart the adjustable aqueon is $17 right now. I like the black ones because they don't seem to get that white calcium deposit (or whatever that is), the Pro, but the I have the glass ones too and they are fine even if they get that on them. I have several knock on wood that have been running for 4 years and for the price...

Light: I like the profile on those Aquaneats better than the other ones , it's thinner. I have a little 9 inch one on a 2.5 gallon and it's perfect for it. Very bright!

Substrate: Unless you are planning on having fish or shrimp that require soft water/low pH, you could save money by picking up some inert substrate like sand instead of the ADA. Keep in mind I think that leaches ammonia in the beginning, so make sure to let it like for several weeks before fish till it dissipates. This is where you could save some $ I think. All my tanks are planted and just have Petco sand or gravel from Chewy's.

Thermometer. That strip will not really work in the smaller tanks. It's weird. It works in the larger volume tanks. On my 29, it shows a fairly accurate temp, but even in my 20 long, it doesn't always register a temp. I wouldn't bother, I think I placed one on my 10 and it may not even register it if I remember. Pick up one of the Digital ones like this and just leave it on all the time and the batter lasts forever. I think I've had most of mine for 3 years, 4 years, something like that and only replaced batteries in some of them sometime this past year. Like this, just find whatever one is cheapest.

To save $, you can get your plants on r/AquaSwap. Go for medium and low light plants, not high light plants.

And get the API Master Test Kit, you'll have to have that to have a tank.

EDIT: Heaters and lights are necessary. Fish need fairly consistent temps and unless your house is always in their range... And for the light they all need a day and a night period and not sunlight which will create algae issues potentially and the plants will require a light.

You had me until you added your fish choices. I would not do either of those personally. Unless you do all male guppies. But, you have so many others that you could choose from.

The most expensive part is gonna be the tank itself. Everything else you can find for pretty cheap on amazon.

I’d recommend a 5 gallon tank, this sponge filter, this heater, and you can find super cheap air pumps and tubing on amazon as well. I have also seen them for pretty cheap at petco/petsmart.

Sponge filters are super cheap to begin with and super easy to maintain and are best with bettas because of their low flow. I think they look nicer too and you don’t need to have a clunky, ugly lid since it doesn’t need to hang from the top.

Here is how my tank has evolved, and IMO has gotten much more aesthetically pleasing!

If you can I’d recommend pushing your friend towards live plants! They look nicer, are better for your fish, and help complete the ecosystem in your tank. There are some awesome plant options for low tech set ups (like so low tech you just put them in and add a bit of seachem flourish when they look like they need a boost). I currently have anubias, tropica fern, and amazon sword. Also moss balls look really cool!

You don’t even need to spend money on aquarium decor; clean mugs or jars work well as places to hide and I think it’s a unique look in the tank. I use little terra cotta pots so if you have those on hand those work great too (just plug the hole at the bottom).

Aqua swap is a good place to keep an eye out for a 2nd hand tank on the cheap, as well as plants, driftwood, basically anything else you’ll need!

Good luck finding this buddy a new home!! Post pics when he’s settled in!

This is a great start man, and I'm sorry you decided to post on this sub, as people here are pretty toxic to new people.

Your tank is a little small, and even in a ten gallon, it will be extremely cramped, so I definitely wouldn't get any more fish. My advice would be one of a couple options:

1. Move the Betta, Rosies, and Dwarf frogs into the ten gallon, but make sure it is heavily planted and has extra filtration and hides. Some good things to do would be adding river rocks in formations to form caves, so that all the fish had hiding places, and adding plants to allow the top layer to be broken up. Narrow leaf java ferns, amazon swords, and aponogeton are all great choices for this task. As for filtration, I'd run two sponge filters, and make sure to do weekly gravel syphons.
   
2. Move the Betta and the Dwarf frogs into the ten gallon, and keep the rosies in the 3.5. In this option, the betta and the dwarf frogs will actually be perfectly fine - the stocking is not too much, but i'd still run the dual sponge filters, and make sure there are caves. The Rosies probably won't live their full lifespan, but will probably be happier if they aren't harassed by the betta.
   
3. Move the dwarf frogs and rosies into the ten gallon, and keep the betta in the 3.5. This option is probably the safest all around, but also the most boring. No matter what some people on this sub will tell you, a 3.5 is perfectly fine for a betta, and it will live a happy, full life there as long as you rearrange the tank often, use the proper decorations, and clean often and well. Meanwhile, a ten gallon will happily hold your school of rosies, and your frogs will live their entire 1-2 decade lifespan chilling in your ten gallon. I can't stress this enough though - get at least one sponge filter for the ten gallon!
   
   One other thing I've noticed is I think your tank doesn't have a heater. Betta fish and African Dwarf Frogs are tropical creatures, and require temps between 76-82. Because you have rosy reds in there, I'd recommend keeping the tank at about 78, and the best way to do that is through a 50 watt heater with adjustable temperature, which usually is about 20 bucks.
   
   Don't let the negative people on this sub get you down, everyone makes mistakes with their fish, and as long as people work towards fixing it, there's no problem. People on this sub also don't realize that nuance is a thing sometimes, and rarely understand stocking requirements and why you usually don't put two things together. These fish can do well together - you just have to put the extra work in, and I hope that you will!

People will yell at you for keeping it in a bowl and some people will even recommend they have to have 10g of water to be healthy.

A bowl is not healthy for the fish, but I've kept bettas in 2.5g tanks with no problems. The most important part is getting a filter and a heater, and not over feeding.

You want more lateral space than height, so a cubic or cylindrical tank isn't optimal. A simple 2.5g from Petco is what I use and is fine; it has the foot print of a shoe box. Bettas aren't really vertical swimmers, then are lateral swimmers; they also benefit from more surface area, which a rectangular tank gives.

I run this filter on my 2.5g and haven't had problems with it for a year. It will do better if you clean it every month.

Heaters are tricky; my best advice is to get a digital thermometer like this one and watch the temperature. My 2.5g hasn't dropped below 79 in a couple months, and I'm not running a heater. In the winter I use a heater like this one to keep the temperature steady. When you do start using a heater, you want to watch your temperature closely to make sure you aren't over heating the tank!

I use a desklamp with a Spiral CFL light bulb as lighting; but I also keep live plants. Your lighting completely depends on what you have in the tank. Keeping some plants isn't hard, but it is a balancing act that you have to get used to. You also have to do a little research about the type of plant and it's needs. If you want plants, give me a PM and I'll give you some easy plant recommendations. If you don't want plants, get a 10watt spiral CFL "Daylight" (6300K) lightbulb and put it in a desk lamp that is a couple inches above the water; or just put the tank in a window that gets some light through the day.

Food is simple; a small pinch of flake food or a little bit of freeze dried blood worms every few days is fine. Obviously live food is better, but it is also more work and more expensive.
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TL:DR

• 2.5 Gallons is fine; buy a tank from petco for ~$10
  
• Get a small filter for $15
  
• Get a nice thermometer for $8
  
• If you temperature is too low, buy a nice heater for ~$20
  
• Get a desklamp and a 6300K (Daylight) lightbulb ~$20
  
  Here is my 2.5g now after I trimmed it and before I topped it off. It has ~20 Black Bar Endlers in it now instead of a Betta. If you want a tank with live plants like that it takes a bit of planning, but isn't too bad.
  
  I'm giving you this list because cost increases with size. A great 2.5g will cost you ~$60-100 upfront, and not much in the long run. A good 10G will cost you ~$100-200 because you will need a stronger filter, larger heater, larger tank, stronger lights. A bowl is the cheap option, and your fish will lose its color, likely lose some fins due to fin rot, and I would be surprised if it lives a year. A tank with a filter and heater will solve all those issues.

I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.

To pick up now:

-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.

-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.

-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.

-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.

-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.

To pick up soon:

-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.

-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.

Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.

You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.

Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.

Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC

This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.

Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.

For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.

Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.

Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.

XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763

This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.

I'm on mobile, so I couldn't link to all your tank choices/Aqadvisor, but I'll comment anyway, haha.

As far as the tank, I'd go with a five gallon if you are able, something like a Fluval Chi.

If you buy a kit like that, don't expect to use the light or filter. You can get a rimless cube for around $25/$30 without all the extra stuff.

As far as the filter, the ones you linked are fine with fish, but I wouldn't use either with shrimp, it creates too much flow in a small aquarium. Stick with a sponge filter. They are cheap and efficient, and shrimp love to pick at them and eat tiny bits of debris off them.
I just ordered this one:

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vgKrub023RYRC

It's going in my Chi.

As for lighting, if you don't have a lot of money you can just put a clamp light on with CFL, just make sure your bulb is 6,500K. If you have the money, get a Finnex Fugeray.

Get your plants established before adding the shrimp. I would recommend cycling for at least two months with plants before adding any shrimp. Make sure your parameters are excellent, and don't forget your GH and KH, very important

As far as mystery snails, I don't have personal experience, so I can't say but I would not put one in my shrimp tank. Ramshorns and MTS are probably better. I have them and I just had to move a few over to another tank bc they were eating all the food.

Ecocomplete is good, but I'd go with the finest grade, as I couldn't get plants to root in the gravelly stuff and shrimp prefer sand anyway. Black blasting sand is a cheap alternative, you just have to wash it a lot initially and then supplement plants with root tabs.

Hope this helps!

I had to change the sponge filter to a smaller one that would fit in current filter repository, this one appears to be entirely plastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZJYC9G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7SIQ2Y2T11UM

My tank currently has frogbit, and duckweed... the growth is crazy on it but keeps the water very clean. Also have moss(s) and some anubas in this tank so it's pretty heavily planted.

The petri dish is a great tip, guessing glass ones are better than plastic so they sink? Any recommendations on places to pick a cheap/decent one from? Would think a nice expensive scientific dish would be a waste of money, and could be better spent on other items.

I have an API master test kit, but it doesnt have GH/KH testing capabilities. thinking i'll get cheap test strips to test my water from the faucet/current levels to know what i need to do. or are the electronic readers better?

Plenty of Oak trees near me, and i'll be sure to use the oak leaves as needed. Love using free things when i can lol. My fiance stocks our house with what seems to be great shrimp food as well, so that'll help the wallet.

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

I'm going to make a price list off of memory....

All in $$$

API master test kit: 18 (confirmed)

10G tank: 15 (confirmed)

Lid: ~10 (Memory, it has a plastic strip in the back. Designed so you can cut off parts of it to make room for cords and/or filters, basically customizable to your hearts desire.

Filter: Whisper 3i, acceptable if you have a single betta in your tank: <10 (Comes with a small air pump. You will need something bigger if you want to maximize the potential bioload of your 10g. Refill cartriges will check out to be ~$1.50 apiece, and each lasts one month.)

Side note: I like to use sponge filter for my Betta, in his planted tank. They provide adequate filtration, and a slow enough flow that the betta is not disturbed. I currently use this guy, as the double filter design allows me to clean half of it per water change, preventing a complete filter cycle reset. As a bonus, you don't have to buy cartridges for it; just swish the foam around in old tank water. Costs $5. Downside: Being a no-name filter, there's no "proper" way to calculate maximum bioload. You'll need to spend time monitoring parameters if you ever want to push the limits. Also, I use it in a PLANTED tank. Plants tend to cost a bunch of money, ~$5 for 2 depending on where you get them. But I find them worth it.

On that note: Plants: $20 (Optional.)

Seachem prime (Water conditioner): ~$5. The bottle has lasted me more than 6 months between 2 tanks, so it'll likely last you a full year.

Food: ~$2 per month. Varies depending on what you buy and how much you use. Expect an initial cost of ~$10.

Edit: Added: Substrate. Sure, you could get a bag of rocks for lotsa $$$ from petsmart or whatever. But, a tip I got from this subreddit, Black Diamond Blasting Sand. Apparently $10. And it's more than you'll need, so if you upgrade to a larger tank, you won't need to spend $$$ getting more substrate (in theory...) Just make sure to rinse it off somehow, before adding it to your tank.

Edit: Added: Lighting. Just use an old lamp. It is advised to change the bulb out with an aquarium-specific bulb, but it won't kill you to run with a household CFL bulb. You may need to fight algae though... use an old credit card or gift card as a cheap scraper, and consider adding 1 or 2 snails, such as nerite snails or mystery snails. Cheap at your LFS, or from your local breeder.

Total: Pretty sure there's an error... but, $65 $75. Assuming you spring for the $5 no-name filter (and not buying the whisper) and skimp out completely on plants. Of course, this is a very specific cost for a very specific tank setup of 1 fish.

Edit: Oh, I totally forgot substrate. Lemme check here.... Um.. gimme a sec.

Edit: Done! Though it should be noted, as you gain more experience, you tend to gain more items. For example, I bought a table just to set my aquarium on. $20 at my local thrift store. I should really have it set on a matt of some sort, so that it doesn't bend, and end up costing me a new aquarium. Another $10. I realized test tubes are fragile. A spare pack of 25 and a plastic test tube stand, $35. Various medications, small droppers to accurately adminsiter seachem prime, cheap disposable gloves for chemicals, lights, lamps, bulbs... it does add up. Bear in mind that $75 is a minimal setup, and it will likely end up costing you more. (Especially if you have to buy a stand... better hope you have a sturdy table & matt, or are able to build one yourself with exact tolerances!)

Edit: Oh my gosh. I forgot a heater. A necessity in ANY tropical aquarium. That's going to run you around $15-20 for a good one, you want one with an adjustable thermostat. They're more dependable, and of course, adjustable. Gonna need a thermometer with that too, though I've personally had trouble finding a reliable one. Some say my tank is 76 degrees, other say it's 80+. Personally, I use the fish's behavior as a sign. Make sure the fish is not gasping for air near the surface, and if they do, turn it down at least 2 degrees, closer to 4.

So you have a filter on a 6 gallon tank that's rated for 68 gallons per hour. This is great filtration (I use an eheim that's rates for over 120 gallons that's running on a 5.5 gallon tank here temporarily). However I myself found that i HAD to control the filter flow.

If you live near a PETCO they may have the Fluval sponges on clearance for 70.cents if not less. don't pay more than 2 bucks for one. I found out my Local petco had a a whole bunch of them on clearance for 70 cents so i picked up close to 30. lol

These sponges look nice, and work well. What you do is fit it over the outflow of the filter. if you get a couple you can cut them to your needs and even use one as an internal filter sponge if your filters design will permit it.

Bettas are used to being in still water. you want the water to have a very very gentle flow, it will look almost still. There's a good chance hes fighting the current and cant get up to the top to breathe regularly.

You mentioned your Nitrates at around a 5? i would prep some water (chlorinate it, maybe let it sit over night) and do a 50% water change, do this about twice a week until your filter is balanced and your tank is fully cycled. if you are seeing high nitrate levels you might be on the tail end of that cycle which is good.

As for clamped fins. Once the previous measures have been taken and your beta appears to be regaining health and vigor (give him a week or so) You can do "betta exercise" which is essentially putting a mirror in front of the tank for about 5-10 minutes once or twice a week. don't do it consecutively, so maybe Monday and Friday or something like that. This causes them to flare their fins and fan them out. preventing clamping and helping their muscles that they use for the fins get some strength. Just be sure to watch him and take it away after the 5-10 minute period. if he is in bad shape right now i would just do 5 minutes for a while and see how that works out.

That's about all i can give right now based on the info provided. Make sure the tank is not near a heavy sun window or an air vent.

Hang in there man and good luck. I know what its like to lose pets. Its a major let down and you feel like you failed. I've been there and im sure ill be there again at some point. I lost alot of dwarf shrimp in my early experiences, it will pay off once you figure out the nuances.

Best of luck and feel free to PM me if you need more help.

If you have a Petco within an hour away I would suggest to go there, they are doing their $1 a gallon sale starting at 10 gallons. You should expect to spend starting at around $10 for a betta, $10 for a tank, you'll want a heater too...so roughly another $10 or more (go with an adjustable one if possible). So far we are at $30. Depending on the substrate you buy, you shouldn't cheap out too much on it if you are wanting plants. I love SeaChem Flourite Black Sand for planting into, holds plants amazingly. I needed two bags for my new 10G and got them from my LFS for $15 a bag (which I overpaid but still want to give them my business). We are roughly at $60. I would not suggest to buy the plants at the store since they are super over priced though you can still do it, at the store it will be roughly three times the price. You could either hold off on the plants and see how the pack turns out that I have eyeballed on Amazon for a while with great reviews...I am just skeptical of buying life stuff online to ship. The pack I am looking into is this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M31YGLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=AARJI3GJZHTT2&psc=1

This is the best pack I have seen so far with the best reviews and plants included. I plan on buying it next Thursday to fill my two tanks I have now. The value of those plants are definitely more than $35 though I can't say for certain right now.

Ah, I almost forgot about pumps. Seems like sponge filters are amazing for betta fish, the one I want to get soon is;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511P8CS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A39G1UAOFK1OOE&psc=1

So you are looking at over $100 for your new tank.


Edit: Just saw that you already have a tank...what size is it?

Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.

I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.

You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.

Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.

I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)

This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.

So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.

A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).

The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.

Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.

Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.

I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)

From his previous posts:

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

That could be good enough, but I like to over-filter so I'd buy this one is bigger and, though it will take up a side of your tank, I believe it is better. The lift tube goes up higher so it has more pull and you can bury the bottom tubes a little into the sand to make it look better.

I have both and I like the bigger one better. Think soda can vs 1/2 of a red bull can.

Lighting is great, but pricey. My roommate and I just use a lamp with a high-temp (light temp is in Kelvins ~6000 is good).

Heater looks great.

Good luck!

(read your other post and I'm not sure about a pump but that one will get you by for at least cycling. If you want to upgrade, pumps aren't that much so no worries)

Reading through the comments just thought I'd chime in:

1. My favorite two guides to fish-in and fish-less cycling. Very easy to read and follow along with and if you read both of his articles you will have a very clear idea of which path you would like to travel down (won't take more than 20 minutes). Personally, since you already have the fish I would recommend a fish-in cycle. The reason is because you might as well give your fish the best home it can possibly have at the moment. And as long as you are using Seachem Prime as your water conditioner, the fish won't be hurt by the fish-in cycling process.
   
   
2. Seachem Prime is a godsend. Not only is it the cheapest conditioner on the market per dose (you only need 1ml/gallon), it contains a patented formula that protects your fish from the ammonia that is present in an uncycled tank. The reason this is so beneficial is because that ammonia is necessary to get a cycle going and Prime allows it to remain present while not harming your friend.
   
   
3. As mentioned and as you already said you are going to get, API master test kits are paramount to aquarium health.
   
   
   
4. Excellent hang-on-back filter with adjustable flow (no need for baffling): Aquaclear 30. If you go this route, get yourself some pre-filter sponges for extra safety. Hang on back filters offer much more flexibility than sponge filters if you ever need to add, remove, or change media types. As someone else also mentioned, they generally provide better water clarity and are extremely easy to maintain/clean. Aquaclears also happen to be virtually silent.
   
   
5. As far as where to shop, its really just a personal preference. I personally have no problem going to big box stores as I know my lack of patronage isn't going to make a dent in their bottom-line. I'd rather help get the fish that are in there out of there. As far as supplies go I almost shop exclusively on Chewy or Amazon unless there is something that I need right that second.

You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)

I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .

I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.

He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.

If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.

I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)

Well, about the heaters burning fish, pretty much everyone who keeps tropical fish uses them. The risk of a faulty heater is pretty low, and overall it's better for the fish to heat the water than leave it room temp. As for the fish, bettas do well in small tanks, are active, look good, are easy to take care of, and are not timid. Care is pretty simple, just feed a high quality food made for bettas twice a day. Overfeeding is probably the most common mistake, so if you see any uneaten food remove it and feed him less in the future.

My advice for a betta would be grab a tank in the 2-5 gallon range, a 25w heater with good reviews (Amazon has tons of heaters), and a quiet air pump and corner filter. I use this filter for my betta, and it works great. Keeps the water filtered and oxygenated all at once. You'll also need some aquarium decorations to give your fish places to hide. There are tons of options out there, so grab whatever you think looks good. Type of gravel doesn't matter much either, just make sure everything in the tank has smooth edges or your betta can tear up his long fins.

Also you might want to put in a few natural plants. Anubias barteri is very easy to care for, doesn't need much light, and your betta will appreciate having places to hang out.

Even at less than an inch, it can create a downflow too strong for a fish like a Betta with such large fins (as you've clearly witnessed). Think about a sail boat... even a soft wind will billow the sails. That's exactly what their fins are.

While the filter intake wouldn't be a problem for other fish with smaller fins, that might create an issue with a Betta. I'm sure he'll be fine for today while you go to work, though. For later, you can simply increase the size of the sponge on the intake to slow down the flow. I bought a bunch of these a while ago for various purposes (great for scrubbing glass on small aquariums!), and they're dense enough to slow water flow pretty significantly.

Also, I have to say - kudos to you for being so concerned and attentive to a fish you received as a gift. Most people (sadly) would throw him in a vase on a window sill and forget about him until he started smelling. I really admire your desire to learn as much as you can so you can take good care of him.

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

Anything labled for bettas is probably junk, or at very least heavily diluted. I use Seachem Prime, and it's usually cheaper than the aqueon brand while being less diluted. A small bottle would last you a very long time.

As for the filter, definitely get a new one. While a mossball helps, you would need far more plants to use up all of the fish's waste. I'd recommend a sponge filter for that size tank so that you don't have to worry about the outflow being too strong. They're incredibly low maintenance as well.

This pump

Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zKHNyb1F5JD7D

With this sponge

Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cLHNyb6XMKG3Z

Would work very well for a 5 gallon.

I would bump the temperature up a bit since bettas do best from 76-82f

Definitely read up on what those numbers mean (not just the ideal range). I think that r/aquariums had a good guide in the sidebar, and Google is your best friend for fish research.

Edit (added link): http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/guide-to-starting-a-freshwater-aquarium-186089.html

As far as tankmates go, for a five gallon with a betta your options are limited to shrimp and snails. But you can still have plenty of fun with those!

Don't be afraid to ask questions!

You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.

I have:

• a 10 gallon tank; with two goldfish; a water jet; airstones; automated feeders; and an eheim filter- supporting two house plants
  Imgur (left side)
  
  
• another 4l0L (10 gallon) with two or three yoyo loaches (rescued); a panda catfish; and an algae eater- that supports a large windowsill planter of growth media holding mint/shisou/thai basil and has a eheim filter for extra biomass and 2 water jets; airstones in the tank and biomass area; and an automated feeder
  Imgur (middle)
  
  
• Finally an outside setup with 150 gallon tub with 5 goldfish (rescued) that runs through PVC pipe with about 10 net baskets with heads of lettuce and an automated koi-pond outdoor feeder.
  imgur
  
  These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
  
  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
  
  The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
  
  It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
  
  This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
  
  100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
  sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
  
  The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
  
  
• Petco often has dollar-per-gallon sales and there's usually tons of tanks on craigslist etc if/when you decide to scale up.
  
  
• Automatic feeders make the process less hands on:
  ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
  
  
• A water pump to run the fish water through the growth media might do your tank very well and are quite cheap, this one is 8usd: http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponic/dp/B00EU74MJY/
  
  
• Additional biomass:
  
  
• This filter (15usd) might add a little additional biomass, which makes your aquarium a little larger and helps breakdown the ammonia etc: http://www.amazon.com/TM1250-Aquarium-Internal-Power-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8/
  
  or
  
  
• (25usd) http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Rapids-Canister-hang---tank/dp/B000YJ0M1E/
  
  
• Again waterflow (helps with algae) then something like this is about 9 usd: http://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Circulation-Maker-Water-Aquarium/dp/B009YEEW2K/
  
  Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
  
  

I'll list off the things you need in order of importance

First is bigger tank! Your bowl isn't cycled anyway so more water volume can only help. I have the same tank that you linked and I like it but I don't really like using filter cartridges so I just changed it out for this stuff

Next, heater. Warm water has been in my experience the biggest difference between a healthy and unhealthy betta. You want one that has an internal thermostat and you can manually set the temp to a number. You'll want a thermometer to go along with it

Filter is important but not as important as heater imo. You'll still need it if you don't want to be doing multiple weekly water changes to keep the quality perfect

Finally are the comfort items: plants, caves etc. If you want plants decide how into it you want to get. Regular gravel would be fine with some plants but if you really want to go for it get something like ecocomplete or fluorite that's designed for plants. I'd recommend at least a couple live plants (Anubias and crypts are easy) because they go crazy for them.

Everything else is mostly to make things easier for you or for decoration.

When you have it set up you'll want to do weekly 20% water changes. A test kit will help you make sure that you're on the right track. If you have any ammonia: water change. If you have any nitrite: water change. If nitrate gets to 20: water change.

My sister and I use sponge filters for our betta fish. They’re pretty good for betta fish as they don’t create much of a flow/current and they don’t need to be fighting it.

We got this one for our bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078HDL21V?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Obviously since we needed two, we had to buy one with three but it’s always good to have extras!

Sponge filters also need some other things like:

Airline tubing:
https://www.petsmart.com/search/?q=Airline+tubing

Valves:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/air-and-water-pumps/top-fin-2-way-metal-gang-valve-16863.html

Air pumps:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/air-and-water-pumps/top-fin-aquarium-air-pump-16855.html

Other than all the little things you need to buy assembling them is easy. This video will probably help you with what you need to know although I haven’t watched it myself:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yQSI-3rUsIs

Or you could find a way to baffle the flow! This is what works for my bettas but there are other options! Good luck :)

Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)

Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.

Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)

Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.

Yeah, but this is probably the only way to reduce the amount of the stuff especially since you're not sure what it is. You should take a closer look anyway and figure out if it look organic or more like dust.

It all depends on what the sponge looks like. It needs to be a shape that will make a good seal around your intake. You can use a zip tie or a clamp of some sort if you need to. And you will know it needs to be unclogged when you return flow rate goes down. I'm sure if you google DIY pre filter you'll find a lot of stuff. Filter floss is very flexible and probably easier to work with than a sponge. If I had to do it again I would probably try filter floss and a clamp to seal it.

You can also get a fluval pre filter from petco/petsmart for like $4. Probably the easiest solution if it fits around your intake.

Buy a small filter sponge. These ones are easy to mod. In some areas they've been repackaged with the Fluval branding. You should be able to get them or something similar at any LFS. Cut a small hole and secure it over the filter out take, or get one that already comes that way. Should help reduce flow and maybe give him some respite. It will also provide a little bio filtration.

Definitely should check parameters too. His scales and eye look pretty unhappy. It's hard to tell but he may be harboring a bacterial infection. If you test high in nutrients that could corroborate that hypothesis. Water changes never hurt. 10% every day will only help secure ideal conditions, and isn't that demanding in a 5g. Might even want to do a little aquarium salt to help boost gills and slime coat.

And I would get those plastic plants out of there. Bettas like to lounge on stuff, and if hes trying to lounge on those and the flow is knocking him around, that could be part of the problem. Silk or live plants will be much more gentle.

Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.

If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.

You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.

As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.

You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.

Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!

Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.

Sun Suns are great for their price as an entry level canister. You get what you pay for, but in a good way I feel. I've never had an issue with mine, but for anything larger than a 40 gallon tank I'd look at getting a more robust and reliable filter.

Since you're running a 20g, you have a few other choices. If you have the cash to spare, Fluvals are great. If you're looking to do this more on a budget, and are OK with stocking fish that don't need/want as much water flow, you could probably even go as low as a TOM Aqurium filter. I picked one up to try out on a 10 gallon build since it was cheap, and it honestly may be a bit too strong for the 10g, but should fit right in with a low/moderately stocked 20g.

I will say with the TOM's you get no frills. You have to manually prime it, and there is no cut offs to make things easy with it. The only really "nice" part about it is that all of the tubing is clear, hard plastic that feels really sturdy.

Looking at your original post...

The responses were valid advice, even if the tone may have been a bit condescending, but your responses were also very defensive and rude.


If you want to keep your water from being cloudy, upgrade to a tank with a filter. 1 gallon really isn't large enough for a betta, and they are tropical fish so should be in a heated tank.

You can pick up a pretty cheap kit that includes a light and filter.
Something like this looks nice, is adequately sized, and comes with a filter (although its not a GREAT filter, its certainly better than none) This little heater works well for a 3 gallon (which is what I linked earlier) and doesn't take up much room or look crappy in the tank.

A filter is not a cure all, you will still want to do partial water changes occasionally, and if youre having trouble with cloudy water, you may be over feeding. your fish's stomach is about the size of it's eye, it only needs 2-3 or those little betta pellets once a day, and if you want to keep 2 male bettas, you'll want to get something at least 5 gallons, and the divider should be something they cant see clearly though as it will stress them out. You can usually pick up a little 5 gallon glass tank at most pet stores for about $11, but you would need to get a filter, heater, etc seperately. Bettas are jumpers, so youd want to either leave about an inch unfilled at the top, or put some kind of lid on there.

This little filter works great for ~5 gallon tanks, and has adjustable flow. (bettas dont like a lot of current, so you wanna keep the flow on any filter pretty low for them)

Getting a siphon, or just a 2-3ft piece of fountain tubing (you can get it from any hardware store) makes partial water changes a million times easier as well. If you WANT to put forth the necessary effort to properly house and car for your fish, send me a PM and I may be able to help you out if you truly can't afford it. But if you TRULY don't have the time to screw with it, give them away to someone who does, and try again when your life situation is less stressful.

2.5 is going to be a pain down the road honestly... advise going 3-5, some would even say 10.. less water = far faster water parameter swings. My wife and i have over 18 betta now, and we've learned a bunch... so here's my 2 cents. Key items are in bold

going down your list:

• heater: you: hydor slim -
  me:ditch preset heaters like this, you at the VERY least want one that will auto shut off (stick heaters like this stay on at a 'set' temp). Hydor theo and some of the tetras are okay... prefer the theo or cobalt neo therm for them so i can adjust
  
  
• diver dan - just make sure to run fingers and stockings along all the surfaces to see if anything can snag the fish's fins... they're very delicate
  
• betta hammock - love these things, as do the fish... make sure to wash well before popping into the tank with hot water
  
• cichlid stone - be VERY careful to check this for sharp/rough edges, kept looking at these and another variant. they felt like concrete inside and would have mangled the fins
  *light - no experience with these things, a low powered desk lamp could even work, this should be fine
  
• marimo - these don't really do anything other than provide decoration, burp them if they float (gently squeeze), make sure to rotate once in a while to keep the round shape... sometimes carry pest snails
  
• food new life spectrum or omega one betta pellets, avoid flake foods. I feed all of ours the Omega one due to being able to find it easier.
  
• filtration you could do a small bubble filter, for a tank this small... https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Small-Sized-Filtrator-Percolator/dp/B01GWMD1XM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473967624&sr=1-2&keywords=small+sponge+filter+aquarium
  
  or
  If you end up going to a larger tank - encouraged, look into the deep blue nano https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473967813&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+nano+filter
  
  the aquaclear 20 is a bit too strong for a betta, and it's not worth modding it when you can just get this guy.
  
  walmart and them should have nets so don't bother ordering online, shipping usually makes them cost more than it's worth.
  might also want a bucket for water changing so you're not moving the tank.
  
  ----
  
  suggestions for starting up...
  
  while a betta CAN survive a cycle, it's not nice.
  
  Suggest getting something like poland spring water to fill the tank, and putting in a few drops of prime and stability. popping the live plants in there will also kick start the cycle as well.

> My question is should I add a heater and small sponge filter or will the heat shock him now since he’s acclimated to room temp water for so long?

If you're worried you could get an adjustable heater and slowly increase the temperature of the water over the course of a week. It's super worth it to spend the couple extra bucks on an adjustable heater anyways.

For nano aquariums I personally love this heater: https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/heaters/products/copy-of-archaea-mini-aquarium-heater-25w-ultra-slim

It's really tiny and the heating adjustment is along the wire so you don't have to stick your hands in the tank.

As for the sponge filter, you should be able to just start using it. It might take the betta some getting used to. What sponge filter were you considering? You might consider one like this that has media for good bacteria growth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=psdc_2975472011_t5_B00KZJYC9G

> So another question is how long is their lifespan in a larger heater tank?

In ideal conditions like 5 or 6 years, but you can get up to 10 if you get lucky. They do fine in non-ideal environments and are extremely adaptable animals, it's just that they're more susceptible to diseases in colder waters. Never forget that your personal experiences are anecdotal evidence! Giving your fish an optimal environment will make both of you happier and isn't all that expensive if you spend the time to plan things out.

Plants become deficient pretty quickly. You can visibly see their leaves melting or changing color. Depending on the plants you have, depends on how well they can show you. I have Hygrophila, which are notorious for being resource hogs. If anything indicates a deficiency in the tank, it would be them. They go from bright green to black, which is a really good visual indicator.

My tank is not heavily planted, so the carbon injections aren't necessary for the plants to live, but it just helps them to grow and propagate across the tank. I think a lot of people start off buying a lot of plants, which requires them to inject everything into the tank at the start. There is so much plant surface area competing for resources. I intentionally started off sparse to make this a long term thing and just to watch which plants will slowly take over the tank over time.

The shrimp I have range for 1 inch to 2.5 inches. The females are the one over 2 inches. The syphon I use is made for 5 gallon and less tanks. So the force of the siphon really isn't enough to suck them up and they are smart enough to avoid it. I purposely chose to get the smallest syphon so I can make sure I have enough time to get to the whole tank before I collect the 5 gallons. The appropriate sized syphon probably wouldn't have gave me enough time to work around the plants and driftwood in my tank before it filled up the 5 gallon bucket.

The shrimp actually help maintain the tank. They eat the algae that grows on the plants and wood. When you first start a tank, colonies of bacteria will grow randomly in the tank and they will eat that too. The females, being larger and carrying around eggs, eat a lot. The tank was built around a Betta and the females are like the same size the betta minus the Betta's fins. If you stick to community fish, the shrimp will go pretty undisturbed. They really live completely separate lives from the rest of the tank (betta, school of harlequin rasboras, and a panda garra).

I use a finnex px-360.

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

It was the smallest canister filter I could find. I tried to get a small canister to get the lowest water current possible while still circulating the water through the whole tank. Captive bred Betta's are so far from their original forms that they suck so much at swimming. This is why I went with something that would produce a low current. This filer comes with a thin cartridge of carbon media. I replaced that with a bag or Purigen. That small cartridge seemed like it would have to be replaced every other month and cleaned every week. The bag of Purigen last for 6 months and was worth buying only having to worry about it twice a year.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1Q9DUY/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125239&sr=1

Planted tanks look as beautiful as saltwater tanks and require way less attention. From my experience at least. Everyone that visits my place always asks if my tank is a saltwater tank because all of the colors are so vibrant, yet natural.

For small display tanks, my favorite is to use a small canister filter.

I personally have a Zoomed 511 but there are starting to be more and more options on the market:

• Finnex PX-360
  
  
• Zoomed 501 or 511 (also sold as Turtle Clean)
  
  
• TOM Aquarium Rapids Mini Canister
  
  Even the smaller Eheim Classics (I think the 2211 or the 2213) would work.
  
  For your water, make sure you use something to make it aquarium safe before adding it into your tank. My favorite is Seachem Prime, and the general consensus is that it's the best there is.
  
  Your little RCS should breed as long as you give them stable water conditions. The babies are also extremely small. One day you'll look over and notice that you have tons of shrimp out of nowhere. It's also a possibility that you have all males or all females (it happens!).
  
  As far as water changes, with that low of a bioload a good schedule would be to change something like 2 gallons once every two weeks.
  
  

No I have the fluval one that came with it, the pump isn't loud for me personally but it's in my kitchen so the noise doesn't bug me.

The filter output is really strong yeah, but I bought some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QgvDbJYGTT0K and it's baffled the flow of the two nozzles perfectly when I aim them upwards and a little bit above the water line. There's still a little bit of flow, but my betta can swim around very happily now with no issues :) Hope this helped you!

Just a few things I noticed and would love to help with! I have this same aquarium.

1. He'd probably be MUCH happier with a pre-filter sponge over the nozzle of that filter outflow. I'd go ahead and buy a bunch of them too, because they come in handy for everything. You can buy them here. All you do is put it over the nozzle and it disperses the water, making the flow much slower. :)
   
   
2. Near the bottom left side of the tank, there is a little slot. Cut off a bit of the foam on the filter block and stuff it in there so that he can't accidentally get stuck. It doesn't look big enough, but my betta got sucked by his tail into that little hole and drowned while I was at work one day. :(
   
   
3. Did you cycle the tank before you put him in? There are a lot of articles on fish-in cycling that can help you out if not. If you have any questions at all about that, please feel free to message me, I've done it a few times and almost have it down to a science, lol.
   
   The tank looks gorgeous by the way! He looks like a happy little guy. :)

I can't really comment on how well this setup could grow plants. It can probably do simple ones like Anubias and java ferns. Can't really say for other things though. If you want another setup that allows you more flexibility in plant selection keep reading.

Tanks can be found on Craigslist for quite cheap. I got a 5 gallon Fluval Chi for $15, a 20 long for $10, and a rimless 10 gallon with substrate(aquasoil eco complete mix), light (Finnex Planted+), and filter (Eheim 2211) for $80. If you live in an area with people, aquarium related items pop up pretty cheap. You can also get a new 2.5 gallon aquarium for $15 from PetSmart

You can get this filter for $15. It's really good for smaller tanks. I use it on a 2.5 gallon, but I can imagine it would work up to 5 gallon. It has flow adjustment, so it would be perfect for if you get a betta.

For lighting you could splurge and get this light for $20-$30 depending on final tank size or get a clip light and a 4 pack of light bulbs for $16. Either of these will enable you to grow plants really, really well. The LED is bright enough that if you decide to run CO2 in the future you can use the same light. It's dimmable though so it works for low tech as well!

For a substrate you can use Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix capped with a gravel (or sand. I don't recommend sand though) of your choice. This should could ~$10. There are other options that cost more. Dirt capped with FloraMax is my go to substrate.

This is a whole tank minus plants/fish/shrimp for $55 to $75 depending on what deals you can find. Alternatively you can get a Fluval Spec V for $80. It's a fairly popular full setup. You'll still need to do something for substrate then.

Your best bet would to be use something like this sponge filter as it not only will prevent inadvertent fish chumming, but will also act as a second media for beneficial bacteria to grow.

If that is either too much of an eyesore or it inhibits your flow too much, use a mesh screen like this to prevent Khuli sushi.

Also, sorry for your loss, Khulis are sweeties! Try Zebra Botia (Loaches) as well, they're great for small tanks and click extremely loudly when excited!

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.

Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.

Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.

First, I would remove the male, leaving only the gravid female. Assuming the eggs are fertile, you'll slowly see them develop over the next few weeks until you can begin to see little crayfish inside each one. I don't think you need to swap out your filter; I prefer covering the intake with a sponge pre-filter (e.g.). I say this because you're going to want to keep your tank clean while minimizing water changes which could lead to you sucking up tiny crayfish.

Once you get to the point where eye spots develop in the eggs (two little black dots), you'll know the eggs are close to hatching. Monitor them closely as you'll want to remove the female shortly after the babies hatch and begin to move around freely. If you don't remove the female, she'll eventually eat the babies.

Once the babies are on their own, it's pretty easy. I feed them like I do adult crayfish, except that I grind the food up a little bit. For example, ground up algae wafers are always welcome. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places for them to seek shelter when they molt, which they will do very frequently at first.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Having trouble locating good places to buy tanks online but a quality local fish store will probably be able to help you out on that front. Something like this would look great I think!

Then grab a simple sponge filter like this and a small air pump to run it.

Shrimp really like plants, so maybe some sand, a nice piece of drift wood, and a few plants to make it all green!

This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.

ITS A TRAP - or at least it seems like a gamble with a sketchy newly built website (registered 2 weeks ago), a decent company would've put a little more effort into a business name than "4aquarium" the site is nothing but generic ebay/no-name products...their facebook is like 2 days old...

As someone mentioned below it was "free" but had $5.50 shipping...

Here is the same product for $3.92 plus free shipping on Amazon. Or here for $2.68 plus free shipping on aliexpress...

It has this high quality about us section..."The 4aquarium.com shop was created to help people to get a aquarium stuff easiest way."

Plus this website is getting posted by some sketchy reddit user that uses multiple accounts to spam his youtube channel all day.
https://www.reddit.com/user/BestBeating
https://www.reddit.com/user/LunacyChillout
https://www.reddit.com/user/FalseLunacy

It doesn't HAVE to be 5 gallons, that is best though. I use a couple of 3.7 gallon tanks with built in 3 stage filters. Sleek and compact but I keep up on weekly water changes to keep my boys as healthy as possible until I get my 33 gallon tank divided and cycled. I'll try to find a link for the tank. If you do end up getting one, a very specific heater tucks away in the last compartment of the 3 stage filter and I'll link that, too. Be back in a minute.

Tank Toss the carbon filter. It isn't needed unless you're trying to pull specific things out of the water and once carbon's done it's job it can leech bad stuff back into the water.

Heater Small, adjustable, submersible and inexpensive. I have 3 and they all work great.

Digital Thermometer This is the easiest way to monitor the water temperature.

If you do get this tank, I will mail you a little round sponge filter which slips over the plastic outlet and gives the fish a nice soft little bed out of the current. You can see it in the picture on the back left of my tank.

A single Nerite snail will keep algae in check and give the betta a buddy. My bettas just flair at the snails if they encroach their bubble nest areas. Snails only come after there's algae to eat so, you wouldn't get one right away.

Some other supplies you will want to consider are, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater test kit and some 5 mil droppers but I get those for free and the pharmacy counter in my grocery store.

As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.

My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.

I have several doubts, such as:

• what kind of betta is this?
  
  
• Is it healthy? (Ive seen more vibrant colors on pics posted here)
  
  
• Can/Should I pair it with other fish?
  
  
• Are pellets preferred over flakes?
  
  As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
  
  In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
  
  
• heater
  
  
• Thermometer
  
  
• Silk plant
  
  
• Log/Hiding spot
  
  
• Filter * which we think we would only buy if we get the Tetra Tank, as per amazon commenters suggestions.
  
  We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
  
  Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
  
  PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.

Hopefully I'll stop freaking out once I get past my first water change, but here we are.

First, does Kade look OK?
When he was hovering at the side of the tank, that black bit at the side of his gills moved like algae. But could he just have coloration in that spot? (It does look like he's getting some dark spots on his body as well.) I can't tell if his fins look better/worse/the same from when I brought him home, either. 😬

I'm making a few tank changes and I figure water change would be the best time to do them, but I don't want to stress him out too much. I'll have a new filter to install (filter, air pump, ceramic media , two kinds of padded media) and some of my plants definitely need pruning (and anchoring). And, of course, gravel vacuum.

Should I take him out into a temporary container while I do all this? Or will he be okay to stay in?

No problem, it was my planned set up until my betta moved in. :c

I'd recommend something more like an aquaclear and a sponge on the end. Or if you really like canisters and have the money to spend I'm in love with these. Just put in whatever media you like (it comes with the basics of ceramic rings, sponge, and carbon) and then you secure one of these to the intake. Just make sure to get the pre filter sponge in person, it's cheaper at petco I believe.

If none of those I'd suggest a sponge filter. It's easier to keep baby shrimp alive and not getting sucked into the filter than an in tank filter. Especially if some are occasionally getting nabbed.

If you have a Hang on Back filter, on the intake (er the suction part) I suggest you stick one of those pre-filter sponges on it, I got mine on amazon here (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pre-Filter-Sponge-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500061442&sr=8-2&keywords=fluval+edge+pre-filter+sponge), but really if you go to a petstore and find one of the replacement Fluval sponges, you can cut a hole in the middle and then jam it on the intake and it'll keep your little one from swimming up it.
 
If your goldfish is super super small, you may want to invest in a sponge filter or one of those filters powered by an air pump that where it intakes the water through a sponge.
 
Also as Karloesh said, keep the filter media. In water, preferably in the tank where your goldfish is in so that the bacteria doesn't die off.
 
I don't have advice for the spot on his face, but if he has scrapes or something, you may want to pick up some melafix (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=629#.WWkfroTyuUk) to keep him from getting any infections and to help heal wounds. Make sure that if you have any carbon in your filter you take it out or else the carbon may suck up the medication. Also follow the directions on the bottle.
 
Let me tell you that I had a situation similar to that where my baby goldfish managed to wedge himself somewhere and rip a patch of scales off his body and a small part of his tail fin off (and similarly, he still ate and swam and looked okay except for the whole fin and scale issue), but if you do regular water changes (while priming your water), and keep an eye on him while he heals up, he should be okay. It's been a bit over a month since my baby got hurt, but since then he's regrown all his scales back and most of part of his tail that got ripped off grew back. :)

I have an HOB on my sand bottom tank and it's never picked up sand to that extent. Also, if you're close to a PETCO, I get the Fluval prefilters for the CHI, or you can get any foam block from their line, the one pictured is the Foam&Biomax renewal kit for the Fluval edge (roughly $4 and you get the cool biomax Renewal Kit. Link to product picture below. EDIT: forgot to say that you cut a line across the top of the foam block and just stick your outflow pipe down it. Just be gentle and use common sense when doing it, foam will be reusable for months and months :D

Another really good alternative if your fish are really sensitive to the water flow is to get a foam filter. Those things don't get HALF the respect they deserve and they're AMAZING. You will never experience better water clarity. I'm sold for life. Link to product picture below too. Good luck!!




Foam Filter:




http://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I?ie=UTF8&keywords=Foam%20filter&qid=1462715582&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1




Renewal Kit:




http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Edge-BioMax-Renewal-3-PACK/dp/B00FJK40NE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462715690&sr=8-2&keywords=Fluval+renewal+kit

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

So biomax stuff is your biological media stick some in the filter this is normally where they’d be I do have some scattered through the gravel. Just more surface for bacteria but your main source would be the filter. Never water change and clean filter on same day.

Nitro cycle
Is 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and between 5/10ppm nitrate. If no ammonia and nitrite in tank, this is sign of established cycled tank. If present not established. You can buy bacteria in a bottle these days which helps.

I’ve also got a betta and in the beginning worried about flow myself. Fluval makes a pretty good sponge for this type of thing. It worked a treat. :)
Fluval Edge Prefilter Sponge https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Keep it until it's falling apart - same as the sponge. It should take a long time, perhaps years. Just clean them periodically. The only things you need to replace regularly are the optional filter components: carbon every 3-4 weeks and loose filter floss as needed.

I've been running the Aquaclear 30 on a tank for 16 months and the sponges and ceramic are still in great shape. I keep two sponges at the bottom and two bags of ceramic on top. No carbon. I've replaced the prefilter once.

Doubling up on the media is beneficial in a couple ways. First, it's extra room for bacteria to grow. Second, once it's seeded you can take some if you need it for a new, hospital, or QT tank.

For instance: Last month I set up a small QT tank and instantly cycled it by taking some of the Aquaclear 30's media. I used this $5 filter with this $7 air pump plus some airline and the tank was up and running. I replaced what I took from the 30 with fresh media and the next time I need another tank I'll repeat the process. 😀

I barely started using flourish and excel so I can't attest to their usefulness. I have some bb algae and my plants weren't doing so well. Flourish should help, i've heard/read some great things about it seachem(flourish manufacture) also creates specific liquid nutrients like flourish iron, flourish magnesium, etc.

If I were you i'd use regular flourish(it's your choice if you also want to use excel) and see if your plants makes a comeback after a month.

Also if you're interested in the wasteland method this video gives a detailed explanation how to start it.

You can buy these types of things at a pet store (support your LFS - local fish store if you have one) but I generally get mine online. The polyester fill you speak of will also work perfectly fine, just be sure to rinse it well in dechlorinated water before use. Generally you just want to kind of mash it in to fill the space while not causing a flow problem - it isn't really an exact science.

Filter Floss Pad: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0100-Bonded-Filter-312-Square-Inch/dp/B0002565PW/

Bio-Media: http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-500-mL-17-oz/dp/B004PBD4J4/

I would stack things as follows:

[Filter intake flow]

[Filter floss (polyester fill or pad)]

[Bio-Media]

[Existing sponge]

[Filter output]

EDIT: I'll also second the recommendation of the aquaclear packs. They work well. Link here: www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1372-Aquaclear-50-Gallon/dp/B000A7BCG4/

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

Small Whisper air pump was the quietest from the six kinds I tried. They came with the tank kits, 3 of them were bearable, one too loud.

HOB filters, even with adjustable flow, have too strong flow problem. Azoo Mignon 60 (the same is sold as Aquarium Masters Mini filter, Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano) has the slowest flow and is adjustable, but it has not too much space for a filter media, basically you will use it for mechanical filtration and keep ceramic or stone biomedia somewhere in the tank. I'm using this on the 2.5 gal long shrimp tanks, original filter media removed, and instead of it using piece of gutter guard (or anything else inert, stiff, with large holes) holding cut to size piece of filter floss, replaced as soon as it dirties a bit. But it could be reused by rinsing it in the old tank water, removed at the time of cleaning.

Filter should be positioned in the tank the way that betta has its peaceful place for the rest and swimming. Try placing it in the middle or on the side and see what will be more acceptable for a fish.

Do not rely on filter for cleaning water, it's more for water movement for a heater. Waste and not eaten food have to be removed manually, as soon as possible.

HOB filters could vibrate. In this case make sure that the lid is set right, not sideway, and add a narrow piece of rubber-like shelf liner from dollar store between filer and tank. For other than this filters, that are larger and could vibrate more, adding folded sandwich plastic bag under the lid helps.

I'm using Marina Slim S-10 HOB filter on 3 gal half-moon (square proportions, more or less) tanks, taller than yours, it has pump inside, not outside the tank, it takes valuable space from the fish. Vibrates more (dampening lid vibration by sandwich bag, slightly lifting pump's tube and using rubber insert between filter and tank helps) and flow has to be baffled by tieing bag with biomedia to the outflow (plastic water baffle can't be used, sharp ends), but it has plenty of space for any custom media, including biomedia, after filter floss.

Cartridges are rather not rip off, manufacturers also have to make a living somehow, we have to make informed choices and buy what is better suitable for out needs. Users with a lot of money to burn and no time can buy and replace cartridges, while real life folks could choose making custom DIY media (mechanical, following by chemical, followed by ceramic biomedia). If, because of uninformed purchase, they got a filter with a thin cartridge, using gutter guard with thinner layer of filter floss (mechanical filter media) is all they could do, maybe add carbon inside filter floss, and keep porous rocks or ceramic biomedia in the tank.

Okay this is easy then.

Don't use tap water for anything at all.

1. First we need to get your TDS down to where it should be.
   We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
   
   You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
   If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
   
   Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
   
   Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
   
   Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
   
   This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
   
   
2. Top off water with RO/DI water. Dont worry about pH swings you will have enough kH in your water that it will be a non issue.
   
   
3. Neos are pretty hardy. You could probably go 3-4 weeks easy before you will need a water change depending on how much crap you add to your water. When your tank gets to 250-300 TDS (or 3-4 weeks depending on which happens first) it's time for a water change.
   
   
4. When doing a water change the end goal is to make sure the TDS will end up between 200-250 TDS. It's a little bit of a guessing game (since I hate sitting down and doing all the math) but lets say your tank is at 300 TDS. I would do a 20% water change and when I am adding new water to the tank I would add gh/kh+ to the new RO/DI water until the TDS was 120-150. Once I added that to the tank the tanks TDS should normalize to about where I want it.
   
   A few pointers about your tank:
   
   
5. You will want a new filter. From the picture I saw I would araid of shrimplets getting sucked up into the big cracks you have on the filter you have. I would suggest a small aquaclear and to purchase one of these (http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/)
   
   
6. I would purchase a small air powered filter (http://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS) or (http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78)
   
   The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
   
   I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
   
   NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.

It has a hole that you can see right through it. I might not be the right dimensions, but it looks like this.

I have the tetra 3i filter. I couldn't get any pictures of the tube, but it has a thin plastic cross covering the opening... But it seems that could be easy for the shrimp to get suck in through those gaps.

Are you suggesting something like this? I'm looking around on Amazon for a similar one that would fit the dimensions. Any recommendations are more than welcome!!

I'm a little late but I'm a huge fan of this filter. It's tiny yet powerful with a controllable flow. I have mine on a custom tank that's really small(maybe 2 gallons, more like 1.5) and the water is crystal clear, though I did add my own media.

I used these prefilters on my Spec tanks, and actually had to turn the pump to a higher setting. They slide on perfectly and no modifications were necessary.

Yes the koi was a great find, luckily my LFS hand picks there bettas from breeders. Most are show quality and very unique, hence me owning four aquariums!

Sponge filters are great, I even have a couple for some of my tanks, but you could get a pre-filter sponge for your current filter to make it work. The sponge lessens the flow and keeps the betta's fins from getting ripped up by the intake tube. You won't need to buy another filter or air pump and the pre-filter sponges have the best of both worlds; mechanical filtration and the sponge for beneficial bacteria growth.

I use these sponge filters. For a good level of filtration, about one per 20 gallons will do the job. But if you want to over filter, 4 is a good number for a 55 gallon.

I stack the filters two to three high (into filter "towers") depending on the height of the tank, so they use up less floor space. But what's really going to make a difference is the strength behind your air pumps. If you're using two separate pumps, I'd recommend they each be rated for a 50 gallon tank for a total rating of 100 gallons. Personally, I love the Tetra Whisper100 air pumps and use one Whisper100 per 4 sponge filters (or per two filter "towers").

I don't think you have enough plants to warrant CO2, but a DIY CO2 is pretty easy to setup.

So I got baking soda (got it from local grocers), and got citric acid, locally couldn't find it, so I bought it online: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got this system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fish-Tank-Aquarium-CO2-Diffuser-Check-Valve-U-Shape-Glass-Tube-Suction-Cup-Kit/282701446441?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheaply made, very happy with it so far.

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

Replace java moss for xmas moss. Xmas moss is fairly easy to find/cheap nowadays and looks way better than java. Java looks like crazy hair xD And buy a intake sponge. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY (petco has it for 2.99) Something like this. Your shrimp will appreciate it, not being sucked up and the biofilm that grows on the sponge.

It's this corner filter I got on Amazon! I like it because it's pretty and easy to clean :)

I really need some help cycling my first tank! It's 10 gallons, planted, and has a [large sponge filter](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VAFGKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have been cycling it for close to three weeks now, and my reading for today was about 0-.2 ppm ammonia, 3 ppm nitrite, and 80 ppm nitrate, [here](https://imgur.com/a/DEhuSzn) is my water test result. I know the nitrite and nitrate are way too high, but I am not sure what to do. Maybe my filter isn't enough? Maybe I need to wait more? What level can I add my betta at? Do I continue to add ammonia even thought the nitrite and nitrate are so high? Please help!! I can answer any more questions and add pictures or information that helps, I'm just very lost. I just want Roberto to be happy

I actually use that filter on one of my 10 gallons as well, provides lots of flow for the tank which is good, and good filtration as well. I would maybe suggest changing out the ceramic rings with ehiem media or seachem matrix media, somehting with a bit more surface area, and you would never need to worry about filtration issues. I also recommend putting one of these http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343104756&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge on the intake of the filter, this will keep the maintenance to a minimum, because it would clog less and the sponge provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, i dont have a single tank with out sponge prefilters.

I really like the bactosurge sponges because they are very fine and tend to polish the water. Problem is they are meant for like 30g and are pretty big. :/. Honestly If you are doing chili rasboras and nano fish, I would get one of those dual-ones that sit on the side of the glass (This style https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/). This could easily support a 20gal tank.

As long as the flow is good, then that's fine. Most people that do sponge filters get the hydro-sponge (I have one myself), and use an air pump or powerhead to power it. Doing it the way you do it will act like a pre-filter as well. These are good for this purpose as well.

What is the flow like on your filter after putting this on?

I believe this sponge would fit perfectly over the outflow -

Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RCXJDbQ0RYS2X

I use it in two of my tanks with outlets like this and it works perfectly to diffuse the flow!

Its available at most petco/petsmarts too

if you want to keep track of parameters get this. https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI as for filtration i would just get a super small sponge filter to use in place of your airstone like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=YSSS6&pf_rd_r=SP3Q161R7EV6JCMT1THS&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00DT1XXJW&pd_rd_w=rOp3K&pf_rd_i=mini+aquarium+sponge+filter&pd_rd_r=68WZ029GH257ZD7YAPA0&ie=UTF8&qid=1504099606&sr=3 you can tuck it back on the corner and the shrimp will absolutely love to feed on it. just make sure your tank is cycled before adding any shrimp to it.

No filter means no flow. Stagnant water gets nasty. A sponge filter also provides a massive amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria, which keeps the tank healthy and deals with the waste created by the shrimp.

You'll notice that the YouTube "no filter" setups have an absolutely enormous amount of plants. An Iwugami setup (the kind with hardscape and a carpet and not much else) will never work without filtration as there aren't enough plants to deal with the waste.

You can get very tiny sponge filters super cheap on Amazon. I'm hoping that jar holds at least two gallons- if so, this one will work great. Yes, I know it claims it's for 10 gallons but it's super tiny- I have one just like that which I used in a 2-gallon tank.

If it's less than two gallons...I wouldn't even try keeping shrimp in it, TBH.

Thanks! Here's the filter i use: http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
When i first got it, it made a terrible rattling noise at first but after resetting some of the pieces it's been great and is really quiet now. It's also blends in well. I would recommend it!

Aquaclear 50 is what I use on my 20 gallon, and it works well - you can skip the bullshit cartridges that most manufacturers use, I added some floss padding and purigen to polish the water (clarity) and threw out the charcoal filter that came with it. You also might need to cut the sponge that comes with it in half laterally to fit all of this and still have the bio media submerged, but that's easy.

Aquaclear 50 on Amazon

Filter floss on Amazon

Purigen on Amazon

Your LFS will likely have all of these things as well, so it's up to you if you're in a rush or want to save a few $$$ by using Amazon.

And, lastly, this is just what works for me. You might try a different setup - but many other HOB filters don't allow you to customize the filtration all that much, and are just there to sell you cartridges.

HOB filters are the Gilette of the aquarium hobby.

https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1520309624&sr=1-2&keywords=NANO+TANK+FILTER



THIS IS LITERALLY THE BEST.

You can alter the flow to your liking as well :)

Our aquaclear is great. If you don't have the funds for a canister filter, and if you plan on keeping/breeding small fish/animals like shrimp you can fit a Fluval Edge prefilter sponge on the intake so you won't have to worry about 'accidents'. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY

If you're going full-planted, you may consider taking out the activated carbon from the filter and substituting it for filter fiber or similar media, as I've read in some places the activated carbon will get rid of beneficial bacteria.

Sounds good, thanks for the advice! Yeah, my betta has been a total stud through the Ick infection, the drastic increase in temperature and now the ammonia. I removed just the carbon and left the other filter media- it was a big sac of carbon. It is an Azoo Mignon Palm filter. I will keep up with water changes until the beneficial bacteria build up and reduce feeding in the mean time.

I linked an item that might work to dampen the return flow. Most filters will work for a Betta but you might need to modify it accordingly for their needs. Heck, you could also make this yourself using zip ties and a sponge.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Good on you for having done your research! It breaks my heart to hear a pet store employee recommending going without.

I think that finnex makes the smallest canister on the market: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4

But 'small' is really relative here, although it's cool that you can mount it like a HOB.

Tons of sites to buy all this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ (good all around) - http://www.adana-usa.com/ (high end and more pricey, but they have the tiny ADA CO2 system) - http://greenleafaquariums.com/ (had good luck with these guys) - Amazon has a ton of stuff too even.

Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)

Seems a bit overstocked IMO

I’d recommend skipping the barbs as they can be a bit nippy especially when overcrowded or in a community tank, from experience. In a tank that small, the loaches will be your main fish so I’d just go with the schools and tetras and rasboras, and you could definitely get away with bigger schools as long as you add them slowly.

The 2 most important factors when pushing stocking levels is biological filtration and surface agitation. If you add a sponge filter like this or this, you’ll be in much better shape. Since you didn’t mention compressed CO2, your fish and plants will thank you.

You could try a small canister filter--those are pretty quiet (http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4) but it might be a bit too much for your shrimp unless they have lots of cover.


The AquaClear noise was pretty annoying to me as well, as my tanks are in my bedroom too. They're great filters so I forced myself to get used to it, and it eventually went away. How loud is it though? Shouldn't be loud enough to keep you up, if so there might be something catching the impeller.

Thank you very much! Should I pair that with this little kit?

https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1557886690&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Reviews seem iffy, but it'd be a good way to gain experience with CO2 systems for not a lot of money.

Indeed! I love your set up haha very creative with the decors placement.

Ohhh and a few things to add for a betta tank:

You should grab a sponge like these ones and slip it on the inflow. It will reduce the current and prevents your fish from getting sucked in.

Does the heater come with the kit? is it submersible?

I feel your pain. I have a 3 gallon nano tank and it took FOREVER to find a filter that won't be too strong for my betta. Finally I found a good one: Mignon 60.

There's a little nob on the intake that will allow you to adjust the flow. In a 5.5 gallon it should be perfect.

If even at the lowest setting you think is too strong, you can also take the black rectangle sponge and put it on the outflow (see the instructions here. I had to do this because my tank is only 3 gallon. But in your 5 gallon I think just the intake nob adjustment will be enough.

Good luck!

Got you fam! I like this filter for smaller tanks because you can adjust the flow from strong to a trickle.

As for the heater I have seen really good things said about this one. I've seen it in person at the store, it's tiny and would take up no space in your two gallon.

Hope this helps!

theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind

Diffuser System

glass co2 checker

drops co2

bubble counter

The glass spiral diffuser

I've had good luck with this guy for my 15 tall, customized with whatever inserts you prefer.

My configuration is floss -> carbon -> floss -> Matrix stone -> ceramic cylinders on one side, then more ceramic cylinders-> Purigen on the other side. It may be overkill/redundant, but it works well in my semi-Walstad setup (I've done 2-3 water changes in 15 months). At first I thought that it would strip too many trace minerals from my tank, but it's done an admirable job so far.

The ceramic cylinders come with the kit, and I just use it as spacers at the bottom of the filter. It keeps any settled detritus from clogging up the more important stuff. The carbon is cut from a leftover pad that I have for my HEPA filter.

The 0.7 gallon will likely kill him fairly quickly. I wouldn't hold off too long.

You can do a little bit to make what you've got a bit better. Consider daily water changes (using the conditioner and making sure to temperature match the incoming water). Also make sure to keep the cube at as warm and as stable a temperature as possible (fighters prefer 25-27 degrees C). Ultimately though there's not really much you can do with it (even with the extra work it's far from ideal). I'd recommend an upgrade ASAP.

If budget is a problem, you can use a plastic tub (clean, but without any residue from soap, etc. I recommend new tubs or ones that have been used to store clean, dry stuff (books, etc) only) as a tank. Filters can be had for dirt cheap (like this plus a $10 air pump from petsmart, etc). Heaters are an item you probably shouldn't cheap out on (I like these ones); because you really don't want a heater failure. That will give you a basic, livable situation from that you can then work on over time.

*edit: fixed link

I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

The 150 is also good.

The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.

Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.

The pump goes outside on your counter/table. They are not that big.

They are a lot less smaller than a HOB, and more gentle for a betta. A 10gal is big enough for a sponge filter.

There are a bunch of tutorials on YT. All things considered, it will be less expensive than a Fluval too. If you, or a relative has any free shipping service like Amazon Prime, for example, you're looking at a lot of savings.



https://youtu.be/BS7gIHUkhuo



https://www.amazon.com/hz/reviews-render/mobile-media-feed/B078HDL21V/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_crsl_img_5?ie=UTF8&physicalId=71UkXwFIKCL&imageExtension=jpg&reviewId=R3QRKV8BBGIES5



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078HDL21V/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section


https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Air-Pump-AP50/dp/B005FZYIG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aquatop+ap50&qid=1570679927&sr=8-1

Canister filters are pretty simple. There's a hose that goes from the tank into the filter (into filter, out from tank). It uses a pump to push the water through a few layers of filter media. First few layers are usually some sort of foam or mesh to help remove larger bits. Next layer is usually a bio media. Next layer is usually a super-fine gritty substance (some people use activated carbon, some folks use something like purigen) wrapped in a mesh bag to help remove all the super-fine bits.

Lastly the pump will push all that water through the output hose into the tank.

Instead of just dumping the water in the tank all willy-nilly, the eheim filters have a spray bar. It's essentially a hose that has lots of holes in the end so that the water comes out neatly across a larger area - instead of just in one big stream.

Yeah we bought a heater yesterday. If we were to purchase a filter like this would we be able to just hook up our current airstone pump to it and have it work? Or would we need to purchase something different? Thanks for your help!

I highly suggest getting some type of foam/sponge thing to put over that filter intake. I lost a beloved ADF as a result of my oversight. His foot got stuck in one of the slats and he ended up drowning (they need to go to the surface roughly every 30 minutes to get air if I remember correctly). It was horrible taking his body off the intake :(

I'm only saying this because I don't want you to repeat what I went through.

I personally have 2 in a 2.5 gallon tank, but they are the only things living in it. So a question would be, do you plan on having other things such as fish? If you have fish, then probably 2 for 10 gallons. If not, then I could see 5 in a 10 gallon being fine.

And like u/numb3rb0y suggested, I would focus some more hides as well. Overall though, I like the tank set-up :)

I had one in my 5-gallon tank at one point, but my betta HATED it. It worked well enough and was super quiet, but he despised it. It's surprisingly powerful for its size, for a 3-gallon you'd have to baffle the output and/or shove some sponge in the bottom to make sure his fins don't get sucked into in input. It takes up a surprising amount of space in the tank, too, and my guy used to swim behind it (there's a small space between the filter and suction cup) and get stuck.

Personally, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I replaced mine with the Azoo Palm Filter and my betta's been much happier.

Despite all the extensive misconceptions around, Bettas need at least a 2.5 gallon, filtered, and heated tank. Preferable a 5 gallon or more, larger set ups are actually easier to maintain! In small tanks like bowls or "shoebox sized tanks," ammonia builds up too quickly and can harm, and eventually kill your fish. Fish create ammonia when they breathe and poo, and it is toxic to them. I recommend you get at least a 5 gallon tank, a fully submersible heater, and a sponge filter. Sponge filters are cheap and great for biological filtration! To combat ammonia "nitryfying" bacteria will colonize on your filter media and "eat" the icky ammonia turning it nitrites, and then less harmful nitrites! Here's a great blog on fish keeping that should supply you any more information you need!

edit: also make sure you dechlorinate your water and feed your fish high quality pellets, i prefer omega one betta buffet pellets, also male and female bettas should not be kept together unless you have very precise exquisite conditions and aim to breed them

This one is pretty cool because you can put it in a corner. This one is also good, just a normal sponge filter, kind of on the bigger side as well.

Here's a great filter and here's a great heater for that tank. I would try changing 0.5 - 1 gallon of water once a week once your tank is cycled. Keep an eye on the test results and adjust your water change routine based on what keeps your levels low enough. Make sure you add water treatment (Prime) to that tap water before you add it to the tank.

Definitely! The tank is a pretty standard rimless glass, which i bought from my LFS. The other parts I purchased online:

• Light - Mingdak LED Clip Aquarium Light
  
  
• Heater - Tetra 50-Watt
  
• Filter - AZOO Mignon Filter 60
  
  The substrate is pool sand, and the dark green moss is actually a marimo moss ball that i took apart and glued to the rock with superglue :)

It's not really gonna grow biobacteria on anything but the very surface of stuff with just the bubbler sitting in there.

Whether or not it will support enough bio-bacteria just on the surfaces of the tank is gonna depend on the size of your tank, how much you feed, how much you clean it, and how big your air pump is. You can't really know for sure without testing the water periodically after you remove the sponge filter since there's too many factors to take into account. It's possible it is enough, but nobody can accurately say for sure.

Could you try a corner filter like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/Corner-Filter-Aquarium-Internal-XY-2008/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500855910&sr=8-4&keywords=corner+filter+aquarium It works similar to the sponge filter but everything is enclosed in plastic so they can't eat it. I've used them with just gravel in them before. Or you could try to do similar with PVC pipe like u/VolkovME mentioned, but unless you already have PVC lying around it's probably cheaper/easier just to buy a corner filter.

Yup thats exactly what happeneds.

I learned about it from this video here by Aquarium Co Op

https://youtu.be/VfAJ3ITS3Nw

I bought a DIY Co2 kit from amazon that uses vinegar and baking soda.

https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1571041282&sr=8-3

Hope that helps :)

Couple of ways. There is the yeast/sugar and baking soda/citric acid. I find the baking soda way to be more reliable. You will need 2 2l liter bottles and i would buy the diy co2 kit that is super awesome. Also diffuser and bubble counter. I run my tank with 2-3 bubs.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.OxgybV71V35P heres a link!

Really like the corner sponge filter- they're about five dollars and they work well to develop beneficial bacteria. Recommend getting an air pump that's next size up from what you need. So for example I have a 5.5 and I use a 10 gal pump.

I use a smaller version of this guy

Beautiful tank!! If you are going to put a betta there I hear that people say the current is to strong so they recommend this sponge so that your betta doesn't have a hard time swimming!

I recommend a sponge filter. (That's what I switched to after discovering a hang on back filter created too much flow for my betta.)

Here is a link to more information on how these work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z52ZsA2IxP4

You will need an air pump (I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YF4FI), filter (https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B078HDL21V/, but there are many other options around), and tubing. I also recommend getting a check valve & throttling valve. These should be like $1 each at your local fish store.

Fluval Spec 3

Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.

If you get this tank I reccomend two things:

Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current

Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)

Thats pretty big, i mean you can always turn down the air but it may take up a lot more room than it needs too. One like this is pretty popular for your size tank. https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B071HVZVMP/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1549773125&s=gateway&sr=8-6

>smaller tank will never fully cycle

That's not true at all.

I have one in a 2 gallon cube, with this filter and this heater. Added eco complete, plants, floating plants and the tank pretty much takes care of itself. Plenty of things in there to absorb nitrates.

EDIT: I should add, nobody should start out with a nano tank until you have experience under your belt, just that it is doable. For the most part, beginners should start with a 5-10 gallon for bettas. It's also much easier to find off the shelf equipment for it in stores.

The live plant is helping with your tank's ammonia especially when combined with the constant water changes. How often are you changing the water in there and how much? Water changes during a cycle will set it back and make it take longer (which is why fish-in cycling can take longer depending on how it is done). If you are dosing Prime, you don't need to change the water as much since Prime converts ammonia into the less toxic ammonium. For fish-in cycling, it is recommended to do two 50% water changes each week.

As long as the betta looks like it is thriving (growing, nice color, and bubble nests are good signs), I wouldn't worry too much. Just continue adding Prime (and Stability if you want) and doing regular (but less) water changes.

Prime states that you can dose up to 5x the normal dose in emergency situations. So as long as you're close to the suggested dose, you are fine.

EDIT: Regarding your question about adding biofilter stuff, if your filter has room and doesn't already have it (I can't find much on that filter), it would be helpful to add something like Fluval Biomax. There are many other products that help with providing a surface area for bacteria to grow. I just have experience with the Biomax because I have Fluval AquaClear filters. Another option is wrapping a "sponge" around your filter's intake (assuming there isn't already one inside). I don't know what fits your specific filter, but here is an example of one (I use a knock-off that was $5 for 6 and works well):
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY

I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.

Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.

Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.

He's lovely! His colors are so vibrant. Just a word of warning, you might wanna pick up a prefilter sponge to stick over your filter intake like these.

Bettas are curious little guys and are notorious for tearing their fins on that kind of stuff. Just figured I'd let you know, he's a gorgeous fish!

I've been using this nano filter on a ~2 gallon tank and it's been amazing. Not sure if you have a flat side to stick it on, but if so, this filter allows you to adjust the flow. It's great.

Good recommendation. Something like this will work as well.

Corner Filter Aquarium Fish Tank Internal Air Driven Filter with Media XY-2008 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y21czbT0G0ZNV

Just make sure to rinse the media every so often

I think this is something I can actually help with. Yay.

I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon setup. It came with a 10 gallon filter. This was WAY too much for my betta. I looked into baffles, and compared the prices. I ended up getting this filter as it's only $15 for a non-ugly setup. It has adjustable flow. I set it to the minimum and now my betta is super happy.

As far as the heater goes, does it have adjustable temperature? I got the National Geographic 80 degree one. We keep our apartment at 72 degrees, and his tank stays around 78 degrees.

The lighting goes... I asked previously and I didn't get any responses. I try to keep the window open so the plants can get some natural light. It's been about a month and no plants are dead/dying but time will tell.

Tetra is a cheapo brand, I would recommend something else. But it will be fine as long as you baffle the output with a filter sponge or pantyhose.

Something like this would be better (will need an air pump).

I got the kit at Petsmart, but it's widely available. [Here you go!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00324X5L2)

It is currently (over)stocked with 6 serpae tetras, 1 zebra danio, and 1 green cory. In a month or so it's going to be broken down when I transition to a larger tank, and will be restocked with one betta and one peppered cory, much more in line with its capacity.

I'm running the stock lights and in-tank filter, though I'm eyeing the Azoo Mignon 60, as supposedly it will fit this tank and free up some space/look better IMHO. Running an airstone off a Whisper pump, too.

How big is the dual sponge filter? I use one of these in my 10 gallon. On the amazon page, it's rated for 20 gallons and would be good enough as the only filter in the tank. They're nice because you can rinse one of the sponges during a water change and not the other, as to not risk killing off all beneficial bacteria in the sponges.

If you bought the smaller version of the sponge filter, the version with only one suction cup, then I might consider using bother filters. Some will say it may be enough for a 10 gallon but I'm just personally a little iffy on that. It ddefinitely doesn't hurt to use both filters anyway. "Over filtration" isn't a bad thing to do.

Okay so with that being said them you should take out the charcoal and save that for later if you need it, not something you need for daily use especially if you want to go planted since it will counter act with any ferts to my knowledge. As for substrate you honestly have so many choices but ada would be good if you want to go planted or to even go with no filter. As for the filter if your going to run one you need to get a biological filter. I use these

You also would need a sponge as a mechanical filtration but if your putting one over the intake that works as well. Sorry if Im either telling you stuff you already know or I'm just repeating things.

I agree that you should also give back the neons. Too small of a tank. Look into getting a snail or shrimp to go with your Betta instead.

I have (this)[http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY] over where the water comes out on a tank similar to yours. If you can get it to stay on the outflow, the water will be diffused calmly with no current into the tank without having to turn off the pump.

Good luck.

For 5 gallons I love this heater, it stays at 78 degrees which is way better than "10 degrees above your room temperature" or 75 degrees. I got mine at walmart. For the filter I use a small air pump and this sponge filter. It's tiny but has both a sponge and rocky filter media, which you can replace with your own small biomax ceramic filter media. I found it could handle my betta's waste just fine.

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edit: oops I just realized the heater I mentioned is yours haha. Mine works really well! I really haven't found a better one that's appropriate for such a small tank.

I have this on my 10 gallon planted beta tank and like it a lot. if you want a hang on back this is supposed to be the best