Reddit mentions: The best aquarium filters

We found 1,038 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium filters. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 190 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

14. Marina S10 Power Filter

    Features:
  • Power filter for aquariums up to 10 gallons
  • Self priming
  • Easy to maintain
  • Adjustable flow control
Marina S10 Power Filter
Specs:
Height6.5 Inches
Length3.7 Inches
Number of items1
Sizeup to 10 gallons
Weight1.264 Pounds
Width7.3 Inches
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16. Azoo Mignon Filter 150 Power Filter

    Features:
  • Quiet and efficient
  • Hang on back design
  • Easy to maintain
Azoo Mignon Filter 150 Power Filter
Specs:
Height4.5 Inches
Length4 Inches
Weight0.69375 Pounds
Width3.5 Inches
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19. hygger Aquarium Double Sponge Filter, Comes with 2 Spare Sponges, 1 Bag of Bio Ceramic Media Balls, Quiet Submersible Foam Filter for Fresh Water and Salt-Water Fish Tank (S)

    Features:
  • 【Multi-filtration functions】this sponge aquarium filter combines bio-filtration, oxygenation and physical filtration in one and also makes small water flow, which can ensure the excellence of the water quality. Helps your small fish or shrimp to live a happy, healthy life
  • 【Filter Demension】plus the sponge filter with media balls takes up no more room. Small filter is 6" in width and 9" to 13." in height, the sponge inside circle diameter is 0.39 inch, suggest for 10 to 40 gallon fish tank. Medium filter is 6.3" in width and 9' to 13 in height, the sponge inside circle diameter is 0.59 inch, suggest for 15 to 55 gallon fish tank. For larger tank you may need 2 of this filter
  • 【Package Includes】1 double sponge filter with 2 containers +1 bag of ceramic media balls + 2 pare sponges(packed in the 2 containers). This aquarium filter must be used with an air pupm and a standard size 4mm air hose, please note pump and air hose are not included. Please choose a powerful enough air pump according to your fish tank size for this filter
  • 【Detachable Fine Sponges 】you can easy to take down the 2 sponges from the filter to clean or replace it, the 2 sponges are fine 60ppi not coarse, which means more surface area for beneficial little creatures to live on. Don't use tap water to clean it, just rinse or squeeze the sponges by using the aquarium water
  • 【Easy to use】all the parts of this filter are detachable, you can easily to assemble them together, with 2 strong suction cups you can stick the filter firmly to any tank position under water, withouting floating. The water oulet tube can be extended and rotated, you can adjust the outlet to above or below the waterline
hygger Aquarium Double Sponge Filter, Comes with 2 Spare Sponges, 1 Bag of Bio Ceramic Media Balls, Quiet Submersible Foam Filter for Fresh Water and Salt-Water Fish Tank (S)
Specs:
Height9 Inches
Length6 Inches
SizeFilter S (10-40 gallon)
Width1.8 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on aquarium filters

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where aquarium filters are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 230
Number of comments: 77
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 89
Number of comments: 27
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Total score: 35
Number of comments: 24
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Total score: 33
Number of comments: 12
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Total score: 31
Number of comments: 8
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 27
Number of comments: 15
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Total score: 20
Number of comments: 9
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Number of comments: 13
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Total score: 11
Number of comments: 9
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Aquarium Filters:

u/Ishikama · 9 pointsr/bettafish

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

  1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.

    No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.

  2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.

    https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8

  3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.

    To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7

    https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3

    Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.

    https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16

    Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.

    https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI

  4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.

    https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367

  5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.

    https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2

    https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4

    I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.

    I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.

    Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.

    I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.

    Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.

    The decor is up to you and what you like.

    Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.

    And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.

    Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️
u/Dd7990 · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Hi and thanks for saving him from your friend that "got bored of him" >_> ... Anyways it looks like his tail might be developing holes from fin rot which is usually due to bad water quality (since you say you don't have anything sharp in there that could tear it, and it doesn't look like a torn tail), a 3 gallon tank as you may know is still quite on the small side, and the nitrogen cycle tends to be unstable in tanks less than 5g.

A 3g tank needs at least 30% partial water changes, at least twice per week (one on Wed. and one on Sunday, for example) but since his tail isn't doing good right now you need to be doing 25% partial water changes DAILY, and I also recommend adding Seachem StressGuard. Clean water can help a betta recover from tail rot if quick action is taken.

​

If you’re in the USA, Petco right now has their Dollar-Per-gallon sales ongoing until Aug. 24th. You could easily grab a 10g tank for just $10 + tax, or even a 5.5g for $14 (not part of the sale, but still a great price for that size of tank).

See the sale here, sign up for their rewards program first so you can get the discount (it's free to sign up): https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/category/dollar-per-gallon-sale

Then I recommend also getting:

  • A breathable lid/hood that fits on the tank (you need to cover the top somehow so that the betta can't accidently jump out, as they are skilled jumpers)
  • Sponge Filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RFL4JMM/
  • Air pump (required to run the sponge filter): https://www.amazon.com/Pawfly-MA-60-Aquarium-Gallon-Accessories/dp/B073DWVX5P/
  • High-quality Airline tubing (the free one included with the air pump above is bad quality since it's free, and you can see the reviews saying the free tubes are no good) https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Airline-Aquariums-Terrariums-Hydroponics/dp/B079DFWLX4/
  • AND a 50w heater (50w recommended for 10g, OR a 25w would be for a 5 or 5.5g tank) with a MANUAL TEMPERATURE SETTINGS knob... DO NOT get a preset heater, if it can be avoided (Preset heaters are not accurate).

    You will have to do Fish-In-Cycle (please read):

    https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle

    And yes, it'd probably be better for him going into the larger tank rather than staying in his smaller 3g tank. You can transfer ALL his substrate + plants + decor + sit his filter media inside the larger tank to help seed the new tank in addition to adding Seachem Stability, which I will include more info below.

    Must-Have items for your Fish-In-Cycling process + Additional Info:

    https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. (SHAKE IT BEFORE EVERY USE) Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

    https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

    https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.

    Other stuff:

    Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellet with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/

    Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)

    Filter - any rated for your tank size as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank)

    Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25 watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).

    Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are. You can get good deals on live plant packages on r/aquaswap

    Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.

    Cleaning/Tank Maintenance Supplies -

    Seachem Stability, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater Master Test Kit, big bucket (can have 2, one for clean water, and one for the old dirty tank water), and an appropriate gravel vacuum (they come in different sizes so make sure you get one that is the right size for your tank). Algae scraper thing too (the lil magnetic ones are nice) if you don't like algae on the front of the tank... Brand new clear-plastic Turkey Baster (which you will only use for aquarium use) will be good for spot-cleaning (immediate removal of food/poo wastes if you see any sitting around)

    For more info on betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
u/deejaywhy · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.

I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.

Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.

Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.

Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!

Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.

You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.

Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.

For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.

For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.

Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.

final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.

Good luck!

u/Oucid · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Do:

Research and complete the fishless nitrogen cycle so do this before buying the fish.
Cycling takes 2-6 weeks to complete, youll need an API master test kit and a source of ammonia to get started. Heres some links that will help you!

Fishless cycling: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

I also made a diagram to help people understand because the explanation can be confusing: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Supplies you’ll need to get started: Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JEpvDbA2GYR49

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

For the ammonia source you can use fish food or pure ammonia, nothing with added stuff like cleaners though.

Do:

Buy a 5 gallon tank! 10 gallon would be best but in my opinion 5 should be minimum, with 3 being the absolute minimum but if you havent bought the tank/can upgrade i dont know why you wouldnt want more space for the fish! Plus its easier to maintain the cycle and heat anyway. Petsmart has a 5.5 gallon kit with a lid filter and thermometer, they also have a 10 gallon kit that comes with lid filter thermometer and heater. Or you can buy a plain $10 10 gallon tank from Petco because they are having a sale rn dollar per gallon on 10 gallons, 20 gallons and I think the cut off is before 40 gallons (then its just half priced) but then youll need to buy a lid and filter separate

Do:

Buy an adjustable heater! Betta fish are tropical and like temps of 78-80°F, anything cooler will shorten their lifespan and raise their chance of illness. Preset heaters arent always reliable, one with an adjustable knob is best especially if you ever have to treat a disease and change the temp yourself for it.

Do:

Have a filter running at all times. If you get one of the kit tanks, here is what I did to modify the filter to make it better (link) Youll have to baffle the outflow, especially if you want a betta with long fine. You can do this best/safest with a sponge ive found. Also will want a prefilter sponge on the intake so the fins dont get sucked up. The best filters for bettas are ones with low flow and have a lot of room for bacteria to grow, if it comes with a cartridge you can remove it and replace it with foam/bio media/floss to make it more effective. Carbon is useless after a few weeks, its best for sucking meds out of the water if needed. Sponge filters are also great filters and just require an air pump, airline tubing and some valves. Relatively easy to set up and has the perfect amount of flow for bettas. One like this will work great (link)

Do:

Get some live plants! Bettas love exploring and swimming/sleeping in little jungles.

Here are my two tanks with live plants only (and driftwood which is also a great decor when aquarium safe) The second one is looking a little sparse but will be filled in later on, its relatively new; My tanks/example (link)

Do:

Have a good maintenance routine, 15-25% water changes weekly should be enough in a tank with an established cycle. Using a gravel vacuum can make it way easier too, i love mine. What I use (link) Scrubbing the glass for algae if needed is also a part of my routine. Make sure you condition the new water with a conditioner like Seachem Prime to remove chlorine.

_____
DONT:

Rinse the gravel or filter media in tap water! You shouldnt need to remove the gravel to clean it, especially if you use a gravel vacuum and feed properly. Rinsing these things will kill the beneficial bacteria and throw off your cycle! If the filter needs cleaned you can take the inserts out and squeeze or swish in old tank water to get gunk off. It shouldnt need to be replaced for a long time, if you do however make sure to run it with the new media (so foam/bio media etc) in the tank or filter to seed it with bacteria so you dont throw off the cycle that way.

DONT;

Overfeed! This happens a lot in the betta world, even one extra pellet can make your fish a little constipated. Overfeeding can lead to bloating/constipation and those can lead to worse problems, 2-3 high quality pellets like Northfin Betta bits or Fluval Bug bites betta formula (Ive seen this in petco but had to order the Northfin off amazon) two times a day should be enough. You can substitute a few feedings a week with frozen food, they have small stomachs so feed the equivalent of 2-3 pellets with the frozen food as well. Personally i fast one day a week, its a good practice to help your fish digest its food and I recommend it! I dont feed on Sundays for example. So 3 pellets in the morning and 3 at night, feed one at a time - this will help you know if the fish is eating okay and it will help create less waste.

DONT:

Rush into buying the fish right away, the cycling process is super important to the fish’s heath and your sanity lol. Bad water quality can make a fish sick so easily, this is also why an API master test kit is basically required


Hopefully that helped, its all I can think of right now lol

u/TheShadyMilkman206 · 1 pointr/bettafish

150 is totally realistic. Planted tanks are the best. I'm not sure what advice you've already received but 10 gallons is "big enough". It is just that the larger the body of water the easier it is to keep stable. 10 gallons is an awesome starting point. I'll take a shot at a $150 total setup, that is plenty for a planted tank:

u/Oreosmooshy · 1 pointr/bettafish

Okay, wall-o-text incoming! Here's some things I learned before and during the whole process.

  • An adjustable heater is great to have. Having an adjustable heater was super helpful when I got an infestation of ich, since I just raised the temp for a few weeks and totally solved the issue. I got this one, which was the cheapest heater I could find that didn't have a lot of it-malfunctioned-and-killed-my-fish reviews. It does run a little hotter than the adjustment knob reads, but I just tweak it using my thermometer for reference. I'm happy with it and a lot of people on the aquarium subs I visit reccomend it.

  • The filter: When I set up my tank, I wanted a small filter that didn't hang over the back (easier to put a lid on the tank, plus the waterfalls from HOB filters are louder than I wanted for a tank in my bedroom). I ended up getting this one, which has been really nice because 1) the output's adjustable so I can point it anywhere and 2) the flow is adjustable too so I can tweak it for a low flow that's not too much for my betta. It's also quiet!

  • The light I went with was this one in a desk lamp. If you don't get a light that's specifically made for aquarium plants, make sure that it's in the temperature spectrum of 5500K-6500K (6500K is best). You're looking for something that mimics the temperature of sunlight. For brightness, people tend to argue about the best way to measure what you need, but since nobody wants to buy a PAR meter for just a 5g low-tech tank, you're probably okay going by the watts-per-gallon rule (that's actual wattage, not equivalent wattage). Low light would be 1.5-2 WPG, medium light would be 2-3. Mine's 2.6. Then there's how long you keep the light on: my understanding is that when you start a tank, you want to have the photoperiod shorter at first (like 6 hours/day) and then over a few weeks increase it to 8-9 hours/day. You can get a timer for a few bucks at Home Depot.

  • Looking back at your plants, java fern and moss are great beginner plants and I've really enjoyed mine. Amazon sword grows leaves ~20 inches tall, which would be too big for a 5 gallon. Water wisteria also grows that tall, but you can keep trimming it back so it might still work. Anacharis and anubias are some other easy-to-grow plants that have worked for me.

  • I started out using root tabs for fertilizer, but I've still had issues with nutrient deficiency, which in hindsight makes sense because most of my plants aren't super rooty. So recently I bought some liquid fertilizers - you need to take care of both macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, aka NPK) and micronutrients (lots of other trace elements). I bought Flourish to deal with the micros, and then Flourish Nitrogen, Flourish Phosphorus, and Flourish Potassium to take care of the other ones. The smallest bottles are about $8 each, but it's enough to last a long time for a 5g. Too early for me to see how it'll play out, though. Having a medicine dropper has been helpful for measuring both fertilizers and water conditioner.

  • Lots of people also like to use a source of carbon for their aquariums (like Flourish Excel), although I haven't tried that yet. My understanding is that it's helpful for getting plants to grow better, whether or not you also use CO2.

  • For cycling your tank and checking parameters, a liquid test kit is both more accurate and cheaper in the long run, so go with one of those. Having a lot of plants in an aquarium also helps it cycle faster, so that's good.

  • A snail is great for cleaning up algae in your tank, although if you get runaway algae problems it's probably indicating some other issue. You can also try getting shrimp depending on your betta's temperament. For adding any tankmate, you'll be most likely to have success if you introduce it at the same time as your fish (or after majorly rearranging things) so he doesn't get a territory staked out beforehand and act more aggressive.

    That's what comes to mind right now, if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to help you as best as I can. /r/plantedtank is also super helpful for answering questions!
u/justophicles · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

u/robotsongs · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I would highly suggest you stay away from the integrated kit approach and buy components. As someone currently trying to overcome an Eclipse system, the burdens far outweigh the benefit of integrations and ease. There's more than enough on getting adequate components here, and I would be happy to help you out with the decision, as would others.

Seeing as how you (thankfully) seem to like to take your time and do this right, I offer you some suggestions:

  • Whatever tank you want. They're not going to have the greatest selection at Petsmart, but if you find something you like, get it. There's other places online that will ship the tank, but this is probably your best bet to get locally. Though the LFS isn't stocked very well, they might have a number of respectable tanks. Make this decision count-- you will be stuck with it for a long long time, and the ability for your tank to grow with your tools/abilities is crucial.

  • Just pony up the money and get an Eheim Classic. For a 20G, you'll probably want to get this one. If you're getting anything larger than a desktop tank (and, BTW, that's a pretty good one), you'll need a real filter. This may seem excessive, but the dainty POS filters that come in kits ALWAYS wind up biting you in the ass. There are people here that are still using the same Eheim Classic that they purchased 15 years ago. It's a standard for a reason-- it's effective and reliable. Pay for it once and you'll never have to buy another unless you really move up in size. If you really don't want to go that expensive, the best bet is to stick with an Aquaclear filter. For the price, these things do a bang-up job!

  • Just don't skimp on a heater. This will do you well, and it's not too expensive. You don't want your fish either roasting to death or accidentally freezing in the middle of winter. Hagen is a good brand to go to here.

  • LED lights these days are great, and have hit a point where the ROI is seen far earlier than previously, and I'm talking about a year. When you get fluorescent tube fixtures, you use more power and have to replace the lights at least every year, and some replace them every 6mo. It depends on how much light you need, but again, I feel you need to recognize that you will grow with this tank, and buying a lighting system now that is cheaper but unable to grow plants will wind up costing you way more in the long run than just getting an LED fixture for 60% more that will last you years and require very little money after the initial purchase. For a first-time tank, I'd suggest a Marineland Singlebright if you really never envision yourself growing plants (which is half the fun in a tank these days), or a Marineland Doublebright if you'd like to grow plants and want an easy, cheaper option now. Know that those two fixtures are the lower end of the LED lighting bars, and you would do well with something like an Ecoxotic Stunner, where you can start with a fixture or two and then add on to the circuit later when you want more light for more plants. Also note the size of all of these fixtures have to be in line with the size of your tank-- there's no universal size.

  • Note, also, that if your LFS sucks in the stock department, and Petco irks you as much as a lot of people here, there's many places where you can order fish and plants online. I haven't heard any horror stories with the big guys, so maybe check them out. Unfortunately, my LFS's are great, so I've never had to resort to these means. I've heard good things about aquabid, and really, you should join plantedtank.net and see what you can find either locally or on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, joining a local aquatic org can open you up to a ton of CHEAP possibilities.

    Good luck. There's lot to research and plan, as well as to spend on, but getting a good setup is so rewarding and relaxing, that it pays back in spades.
u/_The_Editor_ · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

20g is a nice size to start with.

Ok, seeing as you've come out and stated you have very little knowledge I'm going to list the absolute necessities. Apologies if you already have these covered, but it's better to be over cautious!

  • Filter - Absolutely 100% required, this is only second in importance to the water IMO. The Aquaclear 50 would suit you well. However there are many other suitable alternatives, of which you may already have one.

  • Heater - Ok maybe it's necessity depends on the stock you want to keep, but I'm guessing you'll go tropical purely since most people do. A 50-100W heater should be powerful enough to maintain tropical temps.

    I'd encourage plants. They give the tank a natural look, as well as giving the fish places to hide and relax. Happy fish are the best fun to watch, so it's worth making sure they're comfortable!

    There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of stocking options you could go with. Try using this website to try out different options. It's not the absolute gospel, but a very good indicator.

    As for general advice, read, learn, and live the Fishless Cycle. It explains why cycling is necessary, and how to do it.

    Good luck, and post pics as you go along :)
u/MilkPudding · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Bettas can get along with a variety of community fish. Whether an individual betta does is up to the fish--they do have different personalities so while one betta may be mellow and be perfectly fine with tankmates, another may not take too kindly to other fish in his space.

There are a few things you can do to maximize your chances of success in keeping betta with tankmates.

One is to not pick any fish to go in with the betta that are very brightly coloured and/or have long, flowing fins, because the betta is likely to mistake this other fish as another male betta.

The other is to introduce the other fish first; if when putting the betta into his new home, the other fish are already there, he's more likely to just accept their existence, whereas if you try to add new fish to HIS tank once he's already settled in, he'll see them as intruders.

A good bet with bettas are corydoras catfish, in a 10g you could do dwarf or pygmy corydoras which are the smallest species. Since they're bottom-level fish, they won't really intrude much on the betta's space because most bettas are middle to top level fish. One thing to note is that if you get corys you'll also want to do sand substrate, since gravel can damage their barbels.

So here is a list of potential gear, there are a couple of options on some categories:

10 Gallon Standard Tank $10 in-store at Petco (Dollar per Gallon ends the 19th BTW)

AquaClear Hang On Back Filter $28 This is a little pricey, but it's probably the best hang on back filter on the market. It's more powerful than the other ones I've listed. Part of why it's so great is because it's very customizable, you can put your own filter media in if you want (the stuff it comes with is not bad though). Also it's really easy to clean which is a plus.

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter $14 A lot of people don't like internal filters because it's a bit messier to clean since it's fully submerged; personally I don't mind cleaning it and also because it's totally underwater I find it a lot quieter that most filters which might be a good thing if you're keeping it in your bedroom. I'd suggest not using the little cartridge it comes with and stuffing it with your own biomedia and filter floss, but it's powerful and compact.

Tetra Whisper in Tank Filter $11 This is the only filter here I don't personally own, but I believe a lot of people on /r/bettafish use this one and like it.

Glass Canopy $20 Not necessary, but I think they look nicer than a bulky plastic hood. I do suggest some kind of covering for your tank since bettas are known to jump. It could be something as simple as a big sheet of plastic canvas cut to fit, which is a couple dollars.


So technically the above gear, assuming you buy the most inexpensive filter option, comes to $41 pretax. A little over the $39.99 all in one kit you originally wanted, but you are getting twice the gallonage, and also higher-quality gear--glass tank instead of plastic, and a semi-decent filter. And again, you could go a lot cheaper on the lid if you were so inclined and either save your money or put it towards a more expensive filter.

You'll also need a heater for a betta. I think a lot of fishkeepers have their favourite brands for this kind of thing, Hydor Theo is mine, self-regulating glass heaters are way better than the plastic pad kind without regulators because it turns itself on and off automatically as needed. Also, I would recommend ALWAYS getting a heater that can be adjusted to whatever temperature you need. Treating certain illnesses require you to turn up or down the temperature so that's an invaluable feature IMO. Also the knob on this model (unlike a lot of brands I've tried) is really easy to turn so that's kind of a bonus when your hands are all wet.

u/MeghanAM · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I marked things with a [w] if they're on my WL!

  1. Something that is grey. China Glaze Polish Ecollection Recycle [w]

  2. Something reminiscent of rain. Hehe, a watering can [w]

  3. Something food related that is unusual. Miracle Noodles - they're these weird low-carb noodles [w]

  4. Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) LARPing Book for my friend Dennis. His is missing several pages, which is very frustrating to him. He's endlessly dear to me. [w]

  5. A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! Other People's Love Letters - doesn't that just sound romantic? :D [w]

  6. An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! Mickey Mouse Cookies!

  7. Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) SmartCat [w]

  8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. Triple heart necklace <3 [w]

  9. A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? Love Me If You Dare. Everyone should have more French film in their lives. It's a beautiful, artistic, funny, romantic movie. The main characters are hot.

  10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. Cast Iron is heavy! [w]

  11. Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. For exercise, way easier on my knees than the treadmill [w]

  12. One of those pesky Add-On items. Awesome fabric softener - and I really want it, too! [w]

  13. The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? A Roomba. I have pets. I need to vacuum more often. I'm lazy. Also he would be my robot butler friend. I'd name him Alfred or Jeeves or Pennyworth. My cats would be afraid of him. [w]

  14. Something bigger than a bread box. A mattress is quite a bit bigger! [w]

  15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Pearl earrings [w]

  16. Something that smells wonderful. Lilac and Lilies! [w]

  17. A (SFW) toy. Cat toy! [w]

  18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Chromebook! It's actually for when my husband starts college. [w]

  19. Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Filter for my new fishtank! [w]

  20. Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. Electric bike so, my comment on this is: “Theoretically I would like to bike. Realistically I'd like to bike, except up hills. Oh, here we are!”. Right?! Also what they sell electric bikes on Amazon? Damn! [w]

    Bonus:

    Oregon Chai!
u/anonymoose_octopus · 3 pointsr/bettafish

If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:

  • Petco has 5 gallon Aqueon tanks for sale for ~$16 dollars.
  • A good filter to use for these would be the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter AT10. I use one of these in a 1.5 gallon hospital tank, but the gph is good for up to 5 gallons. And it's only $15!
  • You can use anything for a tank lid, but if cost is an issue, these guys work great, ~$7.
  • A good, inexpensive heater is the Hydor 25 watt heater. ~15 bucks and from what I've heard (I'm getting one tomorrow for my new Spec V so I'll update if anything goes wrong) it's amazing.
  • You can use any substrate that supports plant life, but I personally use Eco-Complete Plant Substrate. It's around $20 for a 20 lb. bag, so it's a pretty good deal as well.
  • Plants in general can be quite inexpensive. If you just buy a couple of Anubias (the large variety) and some java ferns, maybe some Anacharis to float or bunch, you're looking at ~$34 dollars (give or take) for the entirety of your tank's plants.

    All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.

    OR

    You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.

    Let me know if you have any questions!
u/Encelados242 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have always used Fluval canister filters, and they work great for me. You should be able to get a nicely over powered one for even less than that. Here's one on amazon. I have two of them, one on a 70 gallon and one on a 55. One is about a year old and the other is about three years old. No broken parts, but the smaller one did start to drip a bit. It just needed a $10 replacement seal and it was as good as new. Honestly, it was my fault for never lubricating it to keep it from drying out. Other than that they work well. I have duckweed in my tanks and it hasn't let any get as far as the impeller, which would be disastrous.

Also, Sunsun is kind of an off brand but very economical. They come with a low powered UV sterilizer built into the canister which is pretty cool. It does have an on/off switch just for the UV, so you can leave it off until you need it to clear up algae or something. They don't come with any media, just some thin foam inserts that aren't good for much, but overall it is a great value. There is also a lot of room in these for custom media, which is nice. The fluvals have baskets as well, but only for half of the canister and the other half you are limited to using foam strips. The Sunsun is nothing but large baskets filling the canister with a hole down the middle for flow and the UV light. Here's a Sunsun on amazon.

I've noticed prices on canister filters go up and down quite a bit on amazon. I was shopping for one a few weeks ago and saw that the largest Sunsun was about $150. I waited a couple days and it went down to $100 and I snagged it. It just got here and the thing is absolutely massive. Lots of room to play with. I haven't started using it yet, so I can't tell you much about the quality and effectiveness, but all of the accessories (pipes, spray bars, etc.) aren't the best quality, but certainly not cheap feeling.

If you want to really have some fun you could easily build your own canister filter. Just get a wet/dry fountain pump and the proper adapters to connect it to some PVC tubing and some flexible tubing to go up to the aquarium. Get some 6" PVC to use as the canister and some large media socks to fill up and drop in. You can get some bulk foam to use for mechanical filtration and wedge those in there as well. Be sure to add stages of mechanical filtration, getting more and more fine as the water progresses. You can get a power head to pull the water back into the aquarium for about the same as the Sunsun or less. This would probably be the best quality of all the options since you could, if you wanted, have a few feet of of the 6" PVC, holding more biological media than any other canister. Also, with this you could customize the amount of flow, which would be nice for the betta.

u/xAnhLe · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.

I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.

If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:

  • Buy a new tank. preferably a big one like a 75G at least since you'll probably want a lot of fish and some of those fish will need a good size tank. I think 75G minimum is the perfect size for beginner as oppose to 55G because of the width. It gives you comfort zone for a lot of fish. Look for it on craiglist first, and be patient. Of course you can get bigger tank if you want

  • You'll need substrates. I personally like Eco-Complete. $22.99 on Amazon. You can also have a layer of sand on top. I use pool filter sand. Something like this

  • You'll need light. 7000k Light is great for plants. LEDs will save you tons of money in the long run. Personally recommend Finnex. They simply have the best LEDs out there. There is a used one on Ebay for very cheap. link I don't know how much I can trust them, I personally would buy a new one if I have the money.

  • You'll need plants. If you live close by Miami, I can give you a few good places to go to. If not your LFS can provide you with these. There is also a seller on Ebay called FishRUs who has some very good plants. You can start with amazon swords, anubias, or whatever plants you want. You'll make mistakes and kill plants, but that's what we humans do. Just make sure you utilize google.

  • You'll need fertilizers. Don't waste your money on Seachem. Read this page Fertilizer can be purchased here

  • You'll need a CO2 system. Aquatek Mini for 87.99 + CO2 tank $26.59. Then go to a local paintball shop and refill your CO2 bottle for $3-4.

  • Water change. You can use Aqueon Water Changer $27.99 you can also buy the 50FT version if you need. You won't regret this buy, trust me.

  • You'll need a filter. Sunsun Canister Pro Kit $97.99 Probably the best canister out there for this price. You can go FX5 if you have the money.

  • Purigen filter media ~$20

  • API Test Kit $22.99

  • There are a wide variety of cichlid. I don't know what you like, but I personally LOVE South America cichlids. These fish are also compatible with your gouramis. You can get a few rams, and 4 angelfish to begin. Discus are beautiful, but don't try it until you feel comfortable with the basics and do enough research. Along with those, you can also get some tetras and corys catfish.
u/oliviac30 · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

u/PinkBuffalo · 1 pointr/bettafish

Hello! I love bettas! They are awesome fish to upkeep! They also have the most interesting personalities! (I swear the one I have in my bedroom stares at me sometimes when he's extra hungry)

  1. Bettas like pretty normal temperatures (76-82ºF/24-27ºC), but with a 10G you will need a heater. When you go look at filters you will see that the size you get depends on your tank, so you will get a 10 gallon filter. I suggest an Aqueon, you can't go wrong with that.
  2. Try something this heater, it has a thermostat so you have more control. You can find a cheap thermometer at the pet store that will suction to the side. I have my bettas in a 5 gallon and they do rather well.
  3. Do you want live plants? That's a whole other level of tank. It's fun and challenging sometimes. Java Ferns, anubias, marimo balls and java moss.
  4. Bettas love themselves and playing, I'd avoid mirrors though that could stress them out from trying to protect their territory from themselves. You can get a betta hammock for it to nap in, a snail for it to flare up at every once and a while, I even put ghost shrimp in the tank for mine, and when one dies he plays with it and eats it (circle of life)
  5. I've gotten all mine at Petco.
  6. The substrate depends on if you want to plant your tank.
  7. Yes yes yes yes yes yes!
  8. Here's this easy guide if you want to read it
u/waleedwale1 · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

I also started my first saltwater tank a few weeks ago and I'm 14. Now I went for a nano and it went just fine. First you need to learn about cycling. This is probably the most important thing. Ammonia and nitrite are extremely toxic to fish. There are bacteria colonies that make these into nitrates, the nitrates are only harmful in large quantities. Fish waster produces ammonia, which is transformed into nitrites by bacteria which is transformed into nitrates by bacteria. When you setup your tank, you need to throw a deli shrimp inside to produce ammonia. Then, with testkit you will test the water until you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitirites and less then 20 ppm of nitrates. Nitrates are removed through water changes. You will need ocean salt, RO/DI water, a heater, a hydrometer, a test kit, sand, live rock, a powerhead, and a filter. First you clean up the tank. Then you add sand that has been rinsed. Mix your saltwater and fill the tank about halfway. For a 20 gallon, I would purchase around 30 pounds of live rock. Place the rock in the position you like. The live rock is probably the most important thing in the tank. It houses the bacteria that keeps your fish from dying. This should be done within 2 hours. When satisfied with the placement, fill the tank up. Let it run for a day with the heater, filter and powerhead on. Check for leaks. Also, when making saltwater test it with the hydrometer do the specific gravity is between 1.021 and 1.026. Most fish prefer 1.024. The next day drop in the shrimp ad start testing. It will take around 3 weeks until your tank is ready for fish sometimes longer. The cycling process cannot be rushed. Any fish placed in earlier will DIE. Now, you wait. Also pH can be an issue. Use a marine buffer to take care of this. Algae is a bitch in saltwater and you will need a good cleanup crew. Go to reefcleaners.org and look at their recommendations and go from there. What do you plan on stocking? Use aqadvisor.com to see if you will be okay. Don't buy any products that claim to provide bacteria and shorten the cycle. They don't work and result in dead fish. When you get your fish, use the drip acclimation method for 2 hours before placing them in your tank.
Here's some supplies you will need
http://amzn.com/B000260FUW
Inside the filter, remove the carbon and add this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
Also, put pieces of live rock inside the filter.
http://amzn.com/B000256EUS
Use saltwater when doing a water change and use reverse osmosis or distilled water to replace water that has evaporated every 2-3 days. Draw a small line at where the water should be so you know how much to add.
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
When measuring salinity, hold the hydrometer and tap it a few times to get rid of bubbles which can affect the results. A refractometer is more accurate but more expensive.
http://amzn.com/B0002A5W9M
This is a pretty good buffer.
You will need around 25-30 pounds of Sand which you can get at your local fish store as well as the live rock.
These are some good heaters
http://www.petmountain.com/product/aquarium-heaters/11442-526438/viaaqua-quartz-heaters.html
http://amzn.com/B001VMSK0I

Order a few of these for accurate temp measurement
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A

This is a good high quality fish food and there is a lot of it for a good price
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK

For a background I like all black backgrounds so I got this for my tank
http://amzn.com/B002DWVIBI

I wouldn't suggest doing corals because they are pretty hard and sensitive.

As for lighting, this is pretty good http://amzn.com/B008K37X7C
But I don't know your tank dimensions. Someone else could probably offer better advice on lighting and what powerhead to get. Powerheads are also necessary.

Try to get a glass canopy for your tank. They are pretty useful.

Here's some pictures of my tank, I also did a planted 30 gallon last year when I was 13.

http://imgur.com/WTMuqma

http://imgur.com/AhfkVu2

http://imgur.com/8X69aA1

http://imgur.com/meI9XCH

http://imgur.com/UFGoJYU

http://imgur.com/AN3juZa

My freshwater tank

http://imgur.com/Uvw0iM

http://imgur.com/wbWgKPY

http://imgur.com/jIJs0x5

http://imgur.com/HnkVhau


u/Trey5169 · 1 pointr/Aquariums
I'm going to make a price list off of memory....

All in $$$

API master test kit: 18 (confirmed)

10G tank: 15 (confirmed)

Lid: ~10 (Memory, it has a plastic strip in the back. Designed so you can cut off parts of it to make room for cords and/or filters, basically customizable to your hearts desire.

Filter: Whisper 3i, acceptable if you have a single betta in your tank: <10 (Comes with a small air pump. You will need something bigger if you want to maximize the potential bioload of your 10g. Refill cartriges will check out to be ~$1.50 apiece, and each lasts one month.)

Side note: I like to use sponge filter for my Betta, in his planted tank. They provide adequate filtration, and a slow enough flow that the betta is not disturbed. I currently use this guy, as the double filter design allows me to clean half of it per water change, preventing a complete filter cycle reset. As a bonus, you don't have to buy cartridges for it; just swish the foam around in old tank water. Costs $5. Downside: Being a no-name filter, there's no "proper" way to calculate maximum bioload. You'll need to spend time monitoring parameters if you ever want to push the limits. Also, I use it in a PLANTED tank. Plants tend to cost a bunch of money, ~$5 for 2 depending on where you get them. But I find them worth it.

On that note: Plants: $20 (Optional.)

Seachem prime (Water conditioner): ~$5. The bottle has lasted me more than 6 months between 2 tanks, so it'll likely last you a full year.

Food: ~$2 per month. Varies depending on what you buy and how much you use. Expect an initial cost of ~$10.

Edit: Added: Substrate. Sure, you could get a bag of rocks for lotsa $$$ from petsmart or whatever. But, a tip I got from this subreddit, Black Diamond Blasting Sand. Apparently $10. And it's more than you'll need, so if you upgrade to a larger tank, you won't need to spend $$$ getting more substrate (in theory...) Just make sure to rinse it off somehow, before adding it to your tank.

Edit: Added: Lighting. Just use an old lamp. It is advised to change the bulb out with an aquarium-specific bulb, but it won't kill you to run with a household CFL bulb. You may need to fight algae though... use an old credit card or gift card as a cheap scraper, and consider adding 1 or 2 snails, such as nerite snails or mystery snails. Cheap at your LFS, or from your local breeder.

Total: Pretty sure there's an error... but, $65 $75. Assuming you spring for the $5 no-name filter (and not buying the whisper) and skimp out completely on plants. Of course, this is a very specific cost for a very specific tank setup of 1 fish.

Edit: Oh, I totally forgot substrate. Lemme check here.... Um.. gimme a sec.

Edit: Done! Though it should be noted, as you gain more experience, you tend to gain more items. For example, I bought a table just to set my aquarium on. $20 at my local thrift store. I should really have it set on a matt of some sort, so that it doesn't bend, and end up costing me a new aquarium. Another $10. I realized test tubes are fragile. A spare pack of 25 and a plastic test tube stand, $35. Various medications, small droppers to accurately adminsiter seachem prime, cheap disposable gloves for chemicals, lights, lamps, bulbs... it does add up. Bear in mind that $75 is a minimal setup, and it will likely end up costing you more. (Especially if you have to buy a stand... better hope you have a sturdy table & matt, or are able to build one yourself with exact tolerances!)

Edit: Oh my gosh. I forgot a heater. A necessity in ANY tropical aquarium. That's going to run you around $15-20 for a good one, you want one with an adjustable thermostat. They're more dependable, and of course, adjustable. Gonna need a thermometer with that too, though I've personally had trouble finding a reliable one. Some say my tank is 76 degrees, other say it's 80+. Personally, I use the fish's behavior as a sign. Make sure the fish is not gasping for air near the surface, and if they do, turn it down at least 2 degrees, closer to 4.
u/dmacintyres · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Well, the first thing we'll need to know is how much space do you have? Are you looking to fill an empty space on your night stand or are you looking to have a separate aquarium stand?

Next, we need to look at what your intent is. Are you looking to keep a few shrimp or are you trying to breed them? The breeding will happen whether you want it to or not, and without fish in there to eat all your baby shrimp you'll have a large population fairly quickly.

Once we've determined these things we can look at a few other things that might affect some minor aspects of your setup but for the sake of time we'll assume you're starting with a 10 gallon (which is a bit on the small side for a low maintenance aquarium) with an [Aquaclear 20] (http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457001271&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20) and you're doing a shrimp-only, planted tank.

We'll begin with plants: Live plants are better for shrimp and generally look better! [Here] (http://www.theshrimpfarm.com/articles/freshwater-aquarium-plants.php) are some good plants for shrimp tanks. Most of these can easily be found at any pet store.

Substrate is highly dependent on what you personally prefer. Some, like me, prefer [mineralized topsoil] (http://visual.ly/how-mineralized-soil-substrate) with a sand or gravel top layer. This is so that you don't have to dose your rooted plants with fertilizer but they'll keep their bright colors and good growth rate. Others simply put down the sand or gravel of their choice and put root tablets into the substrate so that the rooted plants get their nutrients. The disadvantage of this is that you have to replace the tablets every so often and still sometimes end up needing to fertilize.

For conditioner, the only thing you will likely need is [dechlorinator] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5WIP4S/ref=twister_B00TQZ76JS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). This simply takes the chlorine out of tap water so that it won't hurt your shrimp.

The [API Freshwater Master test kit] (http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/monitoring-control/test-kits/freshwater-master-test-kit.html) is the most widely used kit on Reddit from what I've seen.

You shouldn't need to add any minerals, but your water hardness should be slightly acidic for the best results in terms of color and health.

You can find these links in the sidebar as well, but [this] (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/Tropical_Fish-A_Beginners_Guide.pdf) is a beginner's guide to tropical fish keeping, [Aqadvisor] (http://aqadvisor.com/) is a website that can calculate how fully stocked your tank is based on the size of your tank and filtering capabilities, and [here] (http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html) is a guide to understanding lighting.

Finally, [this] (http://aquariuminfo.org/rcs.html) is a helpful guide on red cherry shrimp overall. You NEED to wait for your tank to be [fully cycled] (http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm) to add shrimp, but not to add any plants which means you can go ahead and plant any plants you want while it's cycling and they can get established while you wait. If you go with the tank size and filter I used as the example, you will easily be able to house 50+ shrimp according to Aqadvisor. For your plants, I recommend going low-tech, which means using plants that don't require a lot of lighting and not using any CO2.

u/xtwistedxlovex · 1 pointr/Goldfish

Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.

Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).

The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.

The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.

u/whale52 · 5 pointsr/bettafish

Here's what you'll need:

  • 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.

  • Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.

  • Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.

  • Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.

  • Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.

  • Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.

  • Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.

  • Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.

  • Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.

  • Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.
u/Nparallelopposite · 3 pointsr/axolotls

I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.


HOW TO CYCLE:

  1. Set up tank with clean conditioned water. 2. Add recommended amount of beneficial bacteria per label

  2. Add "waste" to the tank, so a little bit of say fish flakes ( they're cheap and you need a waste source since you DO NOT put a fish or axolotl in a uncycled tank. The flakes are gonna break down into ammonia. The goal with cycling is to get benefical bacteria to build up so they can change (eat) the waste & breaks down the ammonia into nitrite then finally break it down further into nitrate. All these chemicals can hurt axolotl.

  3. Test tank a couple days later with a testing kit ( avoid strips, they will lie to you and give false results) if there is ANY ammonia or nitrite present, you arent cycled. If there is no nitrate present either, you arent cycled.

  4. If you find ammonia or nitrite, take 50% of the water out and add clean treated water. Add more seachem stability ( benefical bacteria) ( add these each time you change water. Even if it's cycled)

  5. Add a pinch more flakes & Continue to do this until your tank is cycled. Meaning you have no ammonia, no nitrite and a presence of 40ppm or less of nitrate.



    Warnings:
    1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.

  6. This beneficial bacteria lives in the filter. If you change your filter, you just ruined your cycle. Don't do this. If it gets nasty/clogged & you have to replace the cartirage, leave the old cartirage in with the new one for a few days so the beneficial bacteria can inhabit the new filter. If you can avoid replacing that, just rinse/gently squeeze out the filter in old tank water when you do clean the tank to keep from murdering the bacteria
  7. Letting the filter dry out will also kill a cycle.


  8. *NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***


    Summery;
    So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.

    You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..

    Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.


    Stuff you'll need:
  9. Air stone+ airline+ air pump ( cheap ones are at Walmart.
  10. Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
  11. Seachem prime ( it's a water conditioner I just prefer seachem)
  12. A tank, 10 gallon minimum for 1 axolotl. But the bigger the better.
  13. A filter
  14. Hides for the axolotl
  15. A syphon / water vacuum ( to suck out the poo/change water easy. I have a long food grade plastic hose I got from Ace hardware. I syphon and let it drain into the yard
  16. A bucket
  17. A Tupperware
  18. A fan. Literally any fan you can put on top the tank and point at it will work. I have a table fan sitting on top my tank and blowing at the water to help keep it cool. A chiller is best, but they are expensive.
  19. A tank thermometer ( don't get the thermometer strips, they lie
  20. A master fresh water test kit.
  21. Worms or repashy or pellets



    Links:
  22. Test kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784772&sr=8-2&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch


  23. Fan suggestion

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG

  24. Tank thermometer

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784880&sr=8-5&keywords=tank+thermometer

    4.
    Air pump + line + stone.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1549784937&sr=8-11&keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&ref=plSrch

  25. Filter ( basic the tank you have probably already has one)

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785038&sr=8-2&keywords=hob+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&ref=plSrch

  26. Shower poof ( hang these so they slow the flow of water coming out of filter. Axolotls don't like a lot of heavy water flow. Get these at the dollar store and rinse them before going in tank. You don't have to get these online. I'm just showing you)

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785094&sr=8-3&keywords=shower+pouf

  27. Seachem stuff
    Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785181&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch

    Stablity:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785210&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+stability

  28. Food
    Pellets:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785278&sr=8-1&keywords=axolotl+pellets

    Repashy:
    https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB

    Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):

    https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785496&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&psc=1


  29. Hides. Here's a good example..I soemthing similar. Just go to the reptile section at your pet store. Get one that's not rough but smooth. Plastics a good option. Just rinse it well before you put it in tank
    https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&source=GA-PLA00522600&fullsite=0

  30. Water vacuum. This is what I have + I have a big long hose for big water changes. I use this to spot clean poo and "vacuum' it into a 10 gallon bucket

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549785739&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+vacuum

    Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.

    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps
u/BearSmasher · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.

You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.

Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.

Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.

If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.

Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.

Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.

Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.


Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.

Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.

Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.

u/kusajiatwork · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

Let's go over a bit of everything.

5 gallon tank is awesome, 10 gallon tank is a tiny bit more awesome, but not necessary at all.

Heater that can keep the tank around 76-78

Filter : https://www.amazon.com/Whisper-Tank-Filter-10i-BioScrubber/dp/B0002DHYF4
I figured I would link the filter I use, and it works perfectly for my bettas

Live plants are awesome, silk plants acceptable.

I usually recommend live plants, such as swords, they help with nitrites and bettas love swimming and hiding in plants, the more jungle the happier the betta in my experience.

For food, I recommend Betta Pellets / Blood Worms as a treat meal every once and a while.

Lighting can vary based on if you go with live plants or not.

For your substrate / gravel almost anything is ok. I have had bettas with Sand, Gravel, and now I am using Seachem Fluorite so my plants go from meh to holy hell that's a jungle.

For water changes I treat my water with a bit of prime and stress coat, I also dose my tank with Seachem Fluorish to feed my plants and have them be healthy and happy.

And a quality of life thing, as I have multiple tanks, a Python Cleaning system for water changes has turned my awkward filling and carrying of buckets into a simple hook up to a sink and off I go.

If you have any questions, just comment here, or head over to /r/bettafish there is plenty of information in the sidebar alone.

u/necropaw · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Alright...time to start typing out this monster.

Ive been reading guides and stuff, but i have a terrible memory when reading things, and theres some stuff i want to double check, etc.

Im looking to set up my old 29 gal tank from when i was a kid (its been empty for 10+ years). My goal is to do a planted tank with primarily tetras and shrimp...maybe a pleco and perhaps another type of schooling fish.

I probably wont be able to start cycling for ~2 weeks or so, though by the time i buy stuff on amazon, etc thats probably a decent timetable.

This light was suggested to me by another user. Should be sufficient for growing plants in a low tech system, right?

Ive seen various numbers for how 'oversized' a filter should be. Right now im kinda looking at these two (1) (2). Any comments on brand? It looks like i can get either one in bigger/smaller sizes. 400gph seems like it might be a bit overkill...but is 250 too low?

Ive read that often the agitation in the surface water by the filter is enough to provide sufficient gasses to the plants/fish...do you think that ill be true in a low tech tank? Would an aerator help? I dont think i'll mind having bubbles coming up in the background if it will, but am i overthinking this?



I wish i had saved more links on substrate and sand and all. Any recommendations for substrate for plants? Would probably like black stuff. I think this is the one i had read about being good?

Thinking about doing a bit of gravel in the tank, but i'd also like to do some sand. Maybe something like 2/3 sand (maybe a couple different types?) and then the rest gravel? Thoughts/concerns?

I thought i had read somewhere that people often use blasting sand (rinsed well)....anyone have comments on that? I could probably get some for cheap from work, though im not sure i want dark sand...


Best place to get a larger piece of driftwood? Ive looked around online a bit and have seen a ton of different sites and whatever, but was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for where to go. Im probably going to want one big piece, and then i can get smaller pieces from wherever.


I assume when im doing water changes and stuff im going to want to bypass our water softener? Our water is supposed to be pretty hard, do i want to maybe mix softened with unsoftened? (ive seen a lot of stuff about adding minerals to pure RO water, but havent seen much on softeners)




Im sure ill think of more, but this should at least be a good start...

Edit: Best place to get rocks and stuff? I'd like a couple for a natural look, im just not sure where to get them. I could get some red granite around here, but im not sure how that'd work, and it seems like it'd be really heavy...?

u/InsidePersonality · 2 pointsr/bettafish

>What plants?

This is a good place to start. There are lots of good beginner plants that are hard to kill and don't need a lot of light or special requirements. Annubia, java fern and java moss are the sort of 'go to' beginner plants. Bettas also like shade, so maybe look into some floaters like amazon frogbit or salvinia (not sure I spelled that right). I also enjoy water sprite and cabomba (again not sure of spelling) for stuff to grow taller in the background.

>What substrate?

If you keep things simple, you won't need a special substrate. A lot of the beginner plants take in nutrients from the water column, so they don't need any special soils or substrate to grow. In fact, many of them don't need to be rooted down at all, you can just glue them to rocks to keep them in place.

>How should I plant them?

Taller plants toward the back. Do research on plants you intend to get, some do feed from the substrate primarily and might need root tabs for healthy growth.

>How long in advance to plant, how to cycle a tank?

So, plant them when you start up your tank. No need to cycle, just toss them in dechlorinated water.

As far as how to cycle, this is a decent guide for a fishless cycle. You're going to need a way to test your water through this, the best bet is an API master test kit. The best prices are online if you've got time to wait for shipping. A little pricier than the test strips, but they're more accurate and last way longer, so it makes up for the price.

>What filter?

Personally I use sponge filters, they're super gentle and have a stupid amount of room for your bacteria to grow. They're super cheap, I got 2 for less than 10 dollars (plus shipping), but they do need an air pump to run them. You'll also want some check valves and a way to restrict the air flow - they make little inlets that have flow valves to control the air for cheap.

Alternatively, I've heard great things about the aqua clear 20 filter. It's got an adjustable flow so you can slow it down to suit your tank, and does a better job than sponge filters for water clarity. Also pretty cheap, and you won't need to buy the air pump.

>What to do with empty tank?

Make it a shrimp tank!

u/bannik1 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Cherry and blue dream are the same species and will interbreed.

I would recommend picking one or the other.

When they interbreed, you won't get purple, instead you'll get some poorly colored blues, some poorly colored reds and a lot of "plain" which are basically mostly clear with some light brown.

Also neocardinas like lower temperatures, if you're looking to build a colony you should avoid tropical fish since they prefer warmer temps. If you're keeping shrimp a heater isn't really necessary.

I agree to wait for the $1 per gallon sale, it really is difficult to beat.

Over the last few years I've had 6 20g's going at the same time with slightly different set-ups from sponge filters to HOB to canister. I experimented with all methods, hi-tech, low-tech, waldstadt.

The most important thing you can do is think about what your end goal is. You'll make mistakes at first, everyone does. But if you plan ahead you can minimize how costly they will be.

If I were to recommend a set-up to a beginner.

  • $20 aquarium PetCo $1 per gallon sale

  • $35 AquaClear HOB filter
    https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM
  • $8 SunSun powerhead
    https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Submersible-Aquarium-Hydroponic-Powerhead/dp/B00OUJ60RY
  • $90 LED + full spectrum. As far as lighting goes, I've never been let down by Current USA, but I've never tried this model.
    https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTE0O
  • $40 Substrate I recommend aquasoil
    https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Soil-Amazonia-Liter-Normal/dp/B00519832W
  • $80-$150 for hardscaping. I would recommend Seiryu, Manten, or Ohko stones. You'll want 20-30 lbs and the cost ranges from $3 per lb to $6 per lb.
  • $10-$25 for plants. For starting off I'd recommend something easy and fast growing like hygro pinnatifida, cabomba caroliniana, dwarf hairgrass, and rotala indica.
  • $10 initial livestock. Get everything set-up and planted. Then buy 5 white cloud minnows to cycle your tank for the first month. These guys love the same parameters as your soon to be purchased shrimp.
  • $5 second livestock purchase, get 2 otolincus catfish. By this point your tank should be cycled and some algae may be growing, otos will clean that up in no time.
  • Now you buy your shrimp. You can get decent quality fire red cherry shrimp for ~$3-4 each, or blue dreams for $5-7 each. You'll want to start off with 10. Be good with your 20% water changes every week and soon they will be molting afterwards. Soon you'll get babies, after your first batch is born, buy another 10 to improve the gene pool a bit.
u/PowerfulPotatoPunch · 6 pointsr/Aquariums

Repeating and adding on to what's already been said, neither would do well in that "tank". It's too small for any fish to live comfortably and doesn't allow for many if the things needed for fish to thrive. Because you're asking a question like this you must be new to fish keeping, which isn't a bad thing. As far as the tank goes, I would try and return it if possible. Like /u/_ataraxia said, goldfish need 30-40 gallons, minimum. To better display the reason why, here is a comparason of the goldfish you buy at the store to a full grown adult. Bettas also need larger, 2.5 gallons is the semi-agreed upon minimum for bettas. I put "semi" there because many argue that 5 or 10 gallons should be the minimum.

If you want to get some fish for you daughter and care for them in a humane way I'd invest in a 10 gallon tank. 10s are small enough to be affordable for beginners and allow for more than one fish to be kept in the tank. /u/kamikazeX already mentioned that petco has a $1 per gallon sale on now which you should really take advantage of if you want to commit to this. Personally, I think a 20 gallon long tank would be much better and would only cost about $10-15 more to set up and will make your life easier. Believe it or not bigger is better and the bigger the tank the less maintenance you have to do. For things you should research a small list would be:

  • The nitrogen cycle and how to cycle a tank without fish, you may want to add fish right away but that would likely kill them due to ammonia poisoning

  • What fish can fit in your tank

  • Please, please, pleeeaaaaaaaaase research an individual fish before buying it. All too often people buy baby common plecos aka "sucker fish" when they're little, without knowing that they get massive

    As far as what I'd recommend buying to get started is:

  • 20 Gallon long or 10 galon (up to you, but the 20 is easier to care for)

  • Aquaclear 50 (if you wanted to go with the 20) or an Aquaclear 30 (for a 10 gallon)

  • Black sand (the colorful gravel may be appealing, but the paint can wear off). I say black because with the darker substrate fish show more natural colors and look better.

  • Fake or real plants and some rocks or caves (personally I think that the more natural the better, and live plants help manage nitrates)

  • Decent lights
  • Small heater or an appropriate size

    There may be similar products for lower prices, but with aquariums you always want to buy nice, not twice. When/if you get a proper tank and it is time to add fish go to trhe store and find the ones you like, write down what they are and leave. Don't buy them, leave. Go home and do your research so you know how to care for what you're getting and that it will do well in your tank. The last time I bought fish I had done a week of research on what I was buying.
u/picogardener · 1 pointr/bettafish

It would be pretty strong but AquaClears are adjustable so the flow can be reduced somewhat. I've modded one before for a salt tank (actually it was an AquaClear 70 on a 5.5 lol but I swapped the impeller with a 20 and shaved off the notch that keeps the intake tube from being moved all the way to the right to slow flow down; this kept flow manageable so it didn't blow everything away). AquaClears are a bit pricier than other filters but I really like them because it's easy to mod them and you can change the filter media according to what you need in there. InTank makes really nice media baskets that go in them to replace the stock basket.

A better choice might be the Azoo Mignon 150, I get it from Amazon (there is a smaller size but in my opinion it's really a bit too small to go much good; this at least has a little room for filter media). It's pretty perfect for a freshwater 5 gallon.

u/paradoxbomb · 2 pointsr/aquaponics

I'm really close to having my first setup cycled based on those same tanks (although in 70 gallon for the fish and 50 for the gb). I'm really happy with them. A couple things to know about them:

  • The drain plug at the bottom of the 70+ gallon tanks (the 50 doesn't have a drain) might need some tightening to fully prevent any leaks. Mine took quite a bit. I gave up on it and accepted the leak, then it seated itself and stopped. Weird.
  • They flex and deform more than you'd think. So make sure your grow bed is well supported if it's raised.

    I used Grow Stones as my medium. More expensive but for a small system I figured it was worth it. Since they're made of recycled bottles they fit nicely with the resource minimization goals that most AP practitioners have. They're nice and light and very porous but need extensive rinsing/soaking to get the calcium carbonate off them, which will throw off your pH.

    In my limited experience so far, here's what I've learned and/or would have done differently:

  • Avoid anything that will alter your pH. Test your grow medium to know what will happen.
  • Avoid anything that will leach chemicals in to the system. Recycled HDPE, as much as you'd like to use it, is of unknown origin and might leach. I figured it was safer not to use the recycled stuff.
  • Avoid metals. According to various aquarium forums, they will eventually harm your fish, even stainless steel.
  • Do a fishless cycle. Don't listen to what your aquarium store tells you.
  • When you add fish, quarantine them for 2 weeks so you can treat any diseases they come with (and many of them will) with whatever toxic slurry works best. Then when they're nice and healthy, add to your system for real. Be prepared for a bunch of water changes, but you can set up a quarantine tank for about $40 with a rubbermaid bin, a heater, air stone, and one of these for good measure: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Hope that helps. If I'm wrong on any of this I'd love to know about it!
u/boogiemanspud · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Before you get ANY fish, please read about cycling a tank. It's pretty dang easy to do and saves your fish a lot of suffering and/or death. There are links under the green FAQ bar above.


Edit: If you are in the U.S. I would recommend going to Petco for the dollar a gallon sale. 6 gallons will work for one betta and some shrimp/snails, but if you can fit it into your budget, a 20, or even a 30 would be much better in the long run.


You will need a heater. I got a sunsun brand for a 75 gallon for $13 on amazon. For a heater, you wan't 3-5 watts per gallon. This isn't a hard and fast rule, but it's a good guideline. 6 gallon would be 18-30 watt, 20 would be 60-125 watt, 30 would be 90-150 watt.


You will also need a filter. If you want a canister style http://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-602B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00F4NZ7UG is a good bet. For a HOB (hang on back) http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459353170&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20 is a great (and VERY VERY quiet) filter. I've not personally used that size of sunsun, but I have 2 of the aquaclear, and they are amazing little filters. If it were me, I think I would get the aquaclear. You can rinse the foam in tank water (like in a bucket) and reuse it for probably several years.

You will need a light hood to view your fish (and keep it from jumping out!)

ANOTHER EDIT: The 6 gallon would also be a good quarantine tank for new fish (prevent disease) or new plants (to make sure no snails hatch out).

u/MuppetPirate · 1 pointr/bettafish

If you choose to continue using the cartridges but have the ceramic rings in there as well, then you shouldn't need to worry about swapping in a new cartridge when the old one is falling apart because there will be enough beneficial bacteria on the ceramic rings that you won't ruin the cycle.

If you don't plan to keep the ceramic rings then the best option is a small secondary filter, one driven by an air pump is a great option like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000634IYU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418773&sr=8-3&keywords=small+world+filter) or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHQ712/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498418909&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+whisper+internal+power+filter+3i). This way you can alternate which filter you are cleaning.

And yes, always clean your filter media (whether it's a cartridge, sponge/foam, filter fiber, polishing pad, or the ceramic rings) in aquarium water. Best way to do that is remove some water for a water change and before you dump it rinse out the filter media in that container.

u/Speedi77 · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

Congrats on the first tank! My most successful tank was a 20 long, and honestly I think about going back very often.

If you're looking for a simple entry-level start to filtration, I would go with a simple hang-on-back filter (or HOB for short as they're called in the reefing community). You could absolutely add a small refugium/sump as mentioned here as well, which would increase your water volume and filtration ability, allowing you to get one or two more fish in the system, however as I'm sure you know it will be a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, with a few extra risks regarding any blockages in pumps.

If you're looking into the HOB option, I would recommend my personal favorite, the AquaClear filter (you can get it here https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486060633&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter). I fill mine with the provided media (I replace the bag of carbon monthly with my own bags that I fill which are a bit cheaper), along with a small filter bag of phoslock to remove some of the phosphates on the top. Overall it's a relatively easy setup, and you can clean the sponge filter every week or two when you do water changes to get rid of any of the detritus that builds up.

Good luck with the tank!

u/Shiny_Callahan · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Years ago one of the first tanks I had was a 5.5 setup with some ghost shrimp and my Betta. For quite a while figured the filter flow problem was just something I had to live with. Then I spent some time online and took another crack at the tank. The problems you are having can be solved!

Since money is an issue, grab an empty water or soda bottle. Rinse it off very well, cut off the ends, and cut a slit down the side. You can wrap this under the "waterfall" of your filter and around the top outside of the tank. This diverts the water out the sides and will make your fish happier. Some tape might need to be added to the top to keep it from popping off randomly, but otherwise its about as cheap a fix as I can come up with for your filter right now. This photo is not mine, but it does give you something to look at which might make more sense than my description!

The only other solution I have is going with a super cheap canister filter from Amazon. This one is only $32 and would work great on your tank.

If you need to clean the tank before getting a gravel vacuum you could always grab a cheap turkey baster and use it to suck up the crud you can see on the surface.

Last suggestions I have without replacing the filter is to pull out whatever charcoal is in your filter and maybe replace that with a pot scrubber. Then grab a bottle of Tetra Safe Start and dump that into your tank. It will look like a cloudy mess, but this is fine and it will clear up soon. This will jump-start your cycle since you are starting fresh.

Oh! This is the last thing. Make sure to grab a bottle of water conditioner before you do anything else. Do this right now if you haven't already. Get your new buddy some treated water and relax! Later you can use an old milk jug or water jug to keep a gallon of pre-treated water around to top off the tank after evaporation as well as for water changes.

u/echoskybound · 2 pointsr/bettafish

He's a beauty! Good for you for seeking out help on providing for him. When bettas have big, warm, healthy environments they become very active and interesting fish. 5 gallons are generally the recommended minimum for bettas, and an ideal temperature is 78-80F / 25.5-26.5C. Lighting isn't really a big deal, but bettas really love swimming through dense live plants, so if you get some live plants you'll need some better lighting for the plants (I recommend anubias or java fern, easy beginner low-light plants.)

You will definitely need a filter, but in the meantime, make sure to do frequent water changes because ammonia builds up fast in a new tank that isn't cycled. You may have heard of something called "new tank syndrome" which means a tank hasn't established a nitrogen cycle, and there's no bacteria in the tank to eat ammonia. This will establish eventually, but if this is a brand new tank, you have to keep the water fresh and clean, otherwise he will poison himself with his own waste. I highly recommend Aquaclear hang-on filters although they might be a little big for a 5 gallon. Make sure filter intakes are always covered with sponges, bettas are slow swimmers with delicate fins that can be ripped off by filter intakes, and that filters are always on the lowest setting. Also, bettas can be jumpy - keep a lid on the tank if possible.

Also keep in mind bettas are carnivores, so make sure any food you get is made for bettas, or just get freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp. If you really want to spoil him, you can get frozen food to thaw out and feed him. Dehydrated and pelleted foods can sometimes cause bloating and constipation. Make sure you don't overfeed! Fish don't need to be fed every single day, and only need a little bit of food.

Keep an eye out for any changes in appearance and behavior, and don't be afraid to ask if you think something's wrong, there's a lot of common ailments that are treatable if you can catch and identify them soon enough.

u/twinkberry · 1 pointr/bettafish

Oh so cute. Well all you need is a 5-10 gallon tank. There is a sale going on now with either petsmart or petco where you can get $1 per gallon. After that you need a filter. If you get a 5 or 10 gallon tank you can get a nice hang of the back filter for cheap. I got this one for my betta when I was holding him in a 2.5 gallon before putting him in a bigger tank. It needs an air pump to work though I got a cheapo and it works great and is almost unnoticeable.. Spend a little more on a heater though because I got a cheap betta heater and it broke somehow and the heater itself started melting and I thougth it was going to explode. The one I use now is hyador.

I also got him that leaf hammock for him to sleep on. For food I bought frozen blood worms of the hikari brand. This will last a long long time it comes with a bunch of frozen cubes each cube has like a hundred worms. So I cut up the cube and keep a portion in a medicine cup. I add tank water to the medicine cup and the portion melts and i use a pippete to feed the worms. And you feed it to him 1 - 3 times a week. The rest I got pellets. The brand was omega something in a blue container. I drop those pellets in a small medicine cup squirt with water let em soak for a minute then drop them in his tank.

Also !! You need a water conditioner I use seachem prime. It makes tap water safe for your fish, normally it has chlorine and other chemicals to make it safe for humans but those chemicals will hurt fish. Prime helps make it safe for fish to breathe and prime has a slime coat bonus.

I think an estimate on how much you will spend for him is around 60-70$ and he will last a while with clean water, good food, and good maintenance.

To make feeding and dosing prime easier. Get a cheap plastic pipette and glass dropper. I tend to spill things when measuring by the cap so the glass dropper is easier to dose prime. The plastic pipette is used to soak and feed the pellets and blood worms.

u/HierEncore · 3 pointsr/fishtank

move the fish to a cup with clean water (bottled water ideal, or if its tap water, let it sit an hour or two to adjust to the room temperature)

then, empty that fish tank using a small bucket or cups of water.. whatever u have to do. then when its light enough to carry, dump the rest of the water outside or in the toilet and wash the tank real good in the tub. u can use bleach if u want, but make sure u rinse it for a full 5 minutes with water to make sure its clean. Any leftover cleaners can kill the fish.

look on amazon or at walmart for a cheap power filter. they are easy to use and work great. example: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/

you hang it right on the edge of your tank. it'll replace the built-in filter, and it will work fine with what you have. you'll never have dirty water again and since u only have 1 fish, you'll only have to change the filter floss a couple times a year. make sure you dont overfeed the fish. only feed enough, so that everything is eaten within 5 minutes. if there is food left over after 5 minutes, you are feeding too much

good luck

u/IanMalkaviac · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

I have seen canisters used before and the reason people get scared of them is because they think that they should not clean the filter pads because it will kill the biological filtration in the pads. However, you need to remember that the pads are there to clean out your tank by grabbing large debris and filtering it out of the system in consecutively fine filter media until the water is "polished". These pads need to be cleaned completely every time you clean the filter which is the same number of times you should clean the filter socks that a sump would use other wise a filter sock can cause the same issue. I try to clean my canister about once a week, I have all the biological filtration on the top trays and all of the pads on the bottom so that the water that goes through my bio filtration is as clean as possible making it so I never have to clean that part of the filter. I then run my pads through my washing machine on a rinse cycle, after I run several rinse cycles to eliminate any left over detergent, I have an efficient front loader for this so this might not work for all washing machines. The pads come out as clean as the day that I put them in the canister, I think the spinning does this more than the rinsing. I also dump all the left over waste water in the canister, which is about 2-3 gallons, then I clean out the canister and fill up the rest of my 5 gallon bucket from the tank for my 5 gallon water change. Since the bio filter media is left wet during this time all of the bacteria stays alive and is ready when I hook the filter back up. I will say that this can be more work than a filter sock on a sump which is why most people do sumps but a canister properly set up with a maintenance schedule can work.


Here is the filter I have, I was able to fit all the filter pads it came with in the bottom 2 trays and all the bio filter media it came with in the third tray. I then put a liter of SeaChem Matrix in the fourth tray but I could have fit more, you could also use MarinePure instead. I did throw the carbon that it comes with out, not very good, and replaced it with better carbon. The intake side also has a floating surface skimmer which for me helps keep the surface of my aquarium crystal clear. I found this option cheaper and over all I like it but like most I may switch to a sump at a later time but I will keep the canister because it can always be used with a sump as media reactor with a built in pump.


Edit: A word

u/vagrantsoul · 3 pointsr/bettafish

From gingercide and my experience...

---

Heaters...


Eheim jaeger:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23726

tetra 50watt
hydor theo:http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11368&t=1&ref=4032&subref=AA&cmpid=PPC-G-4032&gclid=CNWGqee2g80CFclkhgodNxQHdg

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11368&t=1&ref=4032&subref=AA&cmpid=PPC-G-4032&gclid=CNWGqee2g80CFclkhgodNxQHdg

and cobalt neotherms...

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=25673


---

Filters

(cheap-air)
whisper 3.1
http://www.amazon.com/Whisper--Tank-Filter-3i-aquariums/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667444&sr=8-1&keywords=whisper+3i

deepblue sponge filters
http://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-30-Ammonia-Submersible/dp/B005DGI3TG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667502&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+sponge+filter

(Moderate)

aquaclear
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3610

hagen/fluval
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23459

sunsun hw602 or 603:
http://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1464667614&sr=8-7&keywords=sunsun

---
Tanks:

My personal preference is to fo with a fluval spec tank (spec iii or V) due to the higher quality materials
and use that filter with a spraybar mod that I can explain. Is It's cheap and easy.

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fluval-spec-iii-aquarium-kit-in-black

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fluval-spec-v-aquarium-kit-in-white

These tanks are high quality, as are the filters. You can also hide the heaters.

Marineland has similar tanks in 3 and five gallon versions.

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/marineland-portrait-glass-led-aquarium-kit

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/marineland-silhouette-glass-3-gallon-led-aquarium-kit

You might just want to put plastic craft canvas over the intakes to protect the fins. They seem to keep the fish much happier and healthier. Petco is running a special now on shipping and lower price than in-store.

---

Food... We use omega one, but it can redden whites due to the salmon.

from what I've researched this is the order:

  • 1.Atison's betta pro
  • 2.New Life Spectrum Betta Pellets
  • 3.Omega One Betta Buffet Pellets (can cause white fish to fade to pink/red due to the salmon content)
  • 4.NutraFin Max Color Enhancing Betta Flake Food (need to watch this as it's flake (betta tend to not like), and has fish meal as a main ingredient

    ---

    Substrate

    I love the black sand, or eco complete if planting, but watch that you give eco six weeks to stabilize, it can affect the water chems.

    Fluval has a good substrate as well, just never see it in store.

    ---


    online shopping

    Good stores online are dr foster and Smith, petco surprisingly, aquabid, Big Als and I think aquarium arts. For decorations, make sure you carefully check for sharp edges, I file down everything. Let me know if you need or want more details
u/blboppie · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Lighting: It depends on how deep the tank is. In my 55g, 29g, and standard 20g, crypts and small swords have a really hard time with standard T5 fluorescent lighting. With double-bright LEDs, they do OK.

Anubias and java ferns are my heroes. They don't grow very fast, but they just don't need a lot of fussing over, either.

Java moss won't grow where it doesn't get light -- but it doesn't have to be strong light.

If I had my preference, every tank I own would have the proportions of a 20g long. There's a lot of volume for water and fish, but it's nice and shallow so it's easy to light and for plants to thrive. My 20g long has the crappiest lights and the most prolific growth of plants.

HOB filters: If you look at the way Aquaclear filters are put together, there are three distinct components. There's a coarse foam insert for mechanical filtration. There are pumice beads with lots of surface area for bacterial cultures to grow (bacterial filtration). Finally, there's a carbon packet that's meant to provide chemical filtration. They're all really important in an aquarium, but I rely on my plants to do the chemical filtration bit.

Now, don't get me wrong -- I've run tanks with Penguin & Aqueon & Biobag filters with the carbon already in there and it didn't kill my plants. But with my heavily planted tanks (where I've upgraded to Aquaclear filters), I have been able to completely omit the carbon component to no ill effect for my plants or my fish.

If nothing else, it reduces my operational costs. All I do is rinse out the foam insert from time to time and/or run the pumice beads under the tap to wash off the schmutz. They don't wear out (at least not in the time I've had mine running), and they shouldn't be scrubbed or sanitized, because the invisicritters that would make us sick are the things that keep the tank healthy.

The biggest thing that I've discovered to help my low-tech, low-light planted tanks look great is to take advantage of vertical planting, meaning that I get big (tall) pieces of driftwood and anchor plants all over them. That way, I end up with greenery going gangbusters at various levels without having to rely on some kind of stem plant (although Hygrophilia difformis/water wisteria is a good one) to grow upwards all the way from the bottom of the tank.

u/IdLikeToBuyAVal · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

If you want a canister, I would suggest this or this. We have two of the 535 gph canisters and they have been awesome. They are almost identical to Marineland filters (we buy Marineland filter pads and bioballs to fill them) but these will save you money.

As for lights, I really like CurrentUSA (we buy them from petmountain.com) but don't have any experience with LED. Your tank is pretty tall so you may need to go for something with more output than that though, so it may be worth forking over the big bucks for a good brand like Coralife just to get the additional intensity their better lenses/bulbs provide.

u/reddy_freddy_ · 1 pointr/Aquariums

We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it

Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D

This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG

u/mooninitetwo · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I'm not 100% sure but as far as I know that would just aerate the water rather than filter it. Bettas breathe oxygen at the surface of their water so extra aeration is unnecessary. There's also sponge filters that use bubblers with tubing and those are supposed to be great but can take up a lot of space.

I have only used hang-on-back filters because they don't take up space inside the tank. This is a well-reviewed HOB filter that would be hella dope for your tank and totally budget-friendly. It has an adjustable flow but if it's still too much for your betta just look up "DIY filter baffle" and you can baffle it up so it'll be nice and gentle.

NINJA EDIT - Also since you don't have a cycled filter yet make sure to do lots and lots of water changes. If you can test the ammonia, do it frequently. Your buddy can survive a cycle if you are consistent with water changes. Like a gallon every 2 days or so. Take out a gallon, treat a fresh gallon of water from your tap with conditioner, put it back in. Buy a $2 bucket from Walmart, don't use an old one because CONTAMINATION!

u/vkoser · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Bleu has been happily living on my desk in my home office for about 2 weeks, the tank has been setup for about a month. He's currently the only inhabitant and I will likely be adding a few striped khuli loaches or some shrimp in the near future I haven't decied which direction to go yet. I also am trying to track down some floating plants but haven't had any luck at my LFS or Petsmart, I might check Petco in a larger city this weekend that's about an hour away or some LFS in that area.



Equipment:

10 Gallon tank from Petco $1/gallon sale

Aqueon 06105 Pro Heaters Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt

Marina Stainless Steel Thermometer

Perfecto Manufacturing APF33200 Glass Canopy Aquarium, 20-Inch

Marineland Single Bright LED Lighting System 18-24-Inch

Quantity 2 Marina S10 Power Filter

Penn Plax Hide-Away Stackable Stone Aquarium Ornament

Natural sand substrate

1 Java Fern

1 Wisteria (I think...)

I'm going to move the Java Fern today I read last night you aren't supposed to bury the Rhizome so I need to get it attached to a rock or piece of drift wood. I think a decent size piece of drift wood would help the barren look as well on the right until I can get some additional plants. The tank itself has been doing great the filters are very low current which is perfect for Bleu. I've been using the API freshwater master test kit to keep an eye on things and doing about a 25% water change every two weeks.

  • edit: I'm using some filter floss and ceramic in one of the S10 filters with some filter sponge and the original filters in the other plus some filter floss in the output
u/Taylor_says · 4 pointsr/bettafish

Welcome to Betta keeping! Get ready to be addicted. No tank is too big IMO, you want your guy to have plenty of room. I would go with 8 gallons if you have room for it.

If you go with 8 gallons, this looks good and seems to be well reviewed. The 50-watt version.

Again, if you decide on 8 gallons, I would go with this. It comes with cartridges that don't need to be changed nearly as often as it says on the box. I generally only change my cartridges when they start to get really scummy; they house bacteria that is beneficial to your tank.

Bettas also like caves, hiding places and plants. A floating bunch of anacharis will eat up ammonia and give your fish a place to rest. Java fern also does well in a low-light environment.

You'll need to change the water once a week, and make sure to add water conditioner each time. This is my favorite brand.

Any other questions, feel free to PM me. Happy fish keeping!

u/KidGodzirra · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Thank you!!!

I have something like this set up for the tank. For a Pea Puffer 10g is recommended cause they are is so much waste they produce and they are very sensitive to water params (I keep mine usually around 7.5ph.)

A Colbalt Neo Therm Heater in the back right I covered with long grass kept at 78 (these guys like their water warm).

AZOO nano filter, but comparable to whisper filters you can get at Petco

I found a perfectly fit piece of wood from my LFS I have a pothos plant sitting on and growing (those are the roots you see)

Monte carlo and pretty much any sort of pennywort (hydrocotyle) I can get my hands on (I am obsessed).

I also have a small variety of floating plants, water lettuce, duckweed and my personal favorite frogbit.

u/elsimer · 1 pointr/AquaticSnails

TL;DR: For a betta you need to upgrade your setup to have a filter, and a minimum 5 gallon tank but preferably 10 gallon. I highly recommend you buy [this filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FVG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500346286&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval%2Bfilter&th=1&psc=1).

1 gallon is not okay for any fish. Maybe plants. You need to read up about the nitrogen cycle, and why cycling an aquarium is necessary in order to keep water quality good. The water will build up good bacteria to counter the bad bacteria. But if you're doing 100% water changes, you are physically preventing your tank from cycling and building up any good bacteria. You really need a bigger tank (at least 5 gal but preferably 10), and you need a filter! The constant movement of the water is the filters main function, and that's what allows for good bacteria to build up. I'm sure your water parameters weren't 0/0/0 before the water change. Maybe that's what it reads after the water change, but next time check your parameters before the water change because I guarantee you that you have ammonia building up.

It's a myth that betta's are completely fine without a filter or a normal size tank. They will live a much longer life if you take better care of them. The myth comes from the fact that Betta's have an organ that other fish don't, which allows them to breathe oxygen by coming up to the surface and not having to depend on their gills alone for oxygen. This allows them to be able to tolerate worse quality water, but that doesn't mean you should subject them to worse quality water throughout the course of their life! Please improve your setup. At the absolute minimum: never do 100% water changes, 80% should be the absolute max used only for emergencies, buy a filter and you should be able to get by with 50% water changes until your tank is cycled, at which point you should aim to get down to 10-20% water changes once a week, and then down to 10-20% to once every other week.

u/Farts_the_Clown · 1 pointr/bettafish

I was hoping Ny bc I would've taken him from you and put him in my hospital tank.

A vase is not a tank and a filter is recommended bc a tank needs to be cycled.Cycling is when it can sustain the nitrogen cycle using bacteria that lives inside your tank and your filter. Having a suitable tank, gravel and filter allows the tank to provide a stable environment for your fish.

The setup I recommend is
a 5.5 gallon tank from your local petstore. Petsmart or petco usually has them. If you can get a bigger one then I would suggest that.

The filter i recommend is either an aqua clear hang on back filter like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
or a Im pretty fond of these filters also, http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Cascade-Internal-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJLEQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1450977072&sr=8-7&keywords=penn+plax
Get a filter that is rated for a tank 1-2 times the size of the tank you would purchase.

I can't recommend a low cost heater but I do recommend you get one and also a thermometer.

Pick up a bag of gravel and maybe a little decorative house also for your fish to hang around and swim in. Providing a stimulating environment for your fish will combat him being "lazy."

I also suggest you read up on the nitrogen cycle and pick up a test kit so the next time you have an issue with your fish, you can tell anyone what the ammonia, nitrate or nitrite levels are in the tank. You can find out what those are from reading about the nitrogen cycle. I suggest this http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1450977370&sr=1-1&keywords=aquarium+test+kit

Read more about properly taking care of you betta and you will see less of these problems and have happier fish. Feel free to ask any questions

u/callmetom · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

For the 5.5 I am setting up now, I'm using an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon and have high hopes. I removed their plastic comb thing they call a bio filter and filled that compartment with some bio rings because I think they'll do a better job. I don't like that I have to pop off the suction cups to clean the filter and wish it had some sort of bracket that it slid into, but that's a minor annoyance as I'll probably be messing with it a lot less once I'm satisfied with the scape. These are very much initial impressions as I've been running it for only a couple months, but so far so good.

Also, I paid $10 not the $15 it is currently listed for. The 15 gallon model is currently $10, so maybe that's a better buy if it will fit.

Ninja Edit: I added in some filter material between the filter cartridge of this and the intake vents to hopefully keep theoretical future shrimplets from being sucked in. I know that this isn't ideal as now the filter doesn't collect detritus, but hopefully it'll be OK. Also the flow is adjustable with a (very stiff and well hidden) adjustment slider thing just under the output of the filter.

u/altum · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

u/mollymalone222 · 4 pointsr/AquaSwap

If you're looking to swap with someone here or buy you could add your zipcode since this is the swap reddit. And you can also ask this type of info on the r/Aquariums reddit.... but since i saw your question, I have a few 5 gal and I like the Cobalt Aquatics 25 watt heaters because you can change the temperature as opposed to a preset, but they are a little expensive (to me at least).

Since I was on a tight budget, I bought the Topfin setup and hated it. The filter stopped working after a month, I returned it and they let me exchange it for an Aqueon Quietflow 10. You can sub in small media like Matrix or I really like ChemiBlue Nano but it removes tannins. If you take the hood off, the light goes with it so you can't see in the tank. I'd skip it and get a glass lid. It didn't come with a heater I don't remember. So, I've also used the Aqueon 50 watt presets, but sort of depends on ambient room temp (mine's on an outside wall, so fine for shrimp, not for fish as much). Amazon, Drs Foster and Smith, and Chewy all have cheaper prices than the big box stores unless you catch a sale. Drs F & S also have the glass lids for the tanks (Marine land for TopFin tanks and VersaTop for Aqueon tanks). This cheap little light is perfect for a 5 gal and bright too, and only $10. Aqueon Quietflow 10 is only $16 on Amazon. I used Petco Sand for $5/bag you can mix with your gravel. And used API root tabs. Great cheap driftwood and I did the research reading the bad comments lol. Perfect for nano tanks.

u/FaMulan358 · 11 pointsr/gifs

These are CDN$ prices for what I spent on my tank that, granted, is smaller than this and does not have carpeting plants. I’ve spent maybe $40 more on it since just replenishing food, ferts, and buying more livestock. Tank is a little over a year old.

$70 - 10 gal aquarium kit includes led lights, filter, filter media for ~6 months, water conditioner for ~1yr, fish flakes for ~3 months

$40 - caribsea eco complete planted substrate (this is your gravel, for any newbies out there)

$5 - thrifted giant hunk of driftwood

$8 - Java Moss
$5 - Hygrophilia Polysperma (I think, can’t remember the name of what I’ve got)
$10 - a couple other plants I grabbed off a local aquarium buy and sell

$20 - 6 red cherry shrimp to start my initial colony
$3 - nerite snail (keeps the glass clean)

$12 - flourish excel (liquid carbon. Keeps the algae in check)

Totals in at $173 for initial startup cost. Let’s round to $200 because I probably forgot something.

My plants grow like weeds, so even though it started out kinda patchy, it filled out in 4-6 months. I don’t have carpeting plants like this guy but I’d like to experiment. Hoping to snag this co2 kit in the future which runs $40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uAKUAb2430135

I’m pretty happy with it the way it is and I have minimal maintenance right now so I might just leave it. It’s a nice little piece of art/houseplant/water feature/entertainment

u/bogart16 · 3 pointsr/bettafish

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

u/Howlibu · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Not to mention they'll eat a lot of plants! A 20 long is a perfect sized tank for any beginner imo (planted, saltwater, or basic setup) cause there's a lot of room to work with and not hard to find a light that penetrates deep enough if you've got something to grow.

Just not for goldfish! They are very messy, eat a lot and poop a lot and overall are messy babies bumping into things. Cute, tho!

Some tips:

  • Check craiglist
  • Better yet, see if there is an aquarium club/meetup in your area. Clubs will often swap supplies and tanks as people upgrade.
  • Learn how to do a water change
  • Learn about the aquarium cycle
  • Get a filter that can do your tank's size and more (if you've got a 20gal get a filter rated for 30-40gal) Personally I really enjoy AquaClear filters, they move a lot of water for their size and you can even play with the filter media a bit to exactly how you want it. And on top of that it's very quiet!

    And my best advice of all..RESEARCH! The world of fish keeping can be a little daunting at first, since there's so much to know before you can even take the first steps. But stick to it! It's not as difficult as it seems and honestly? You're gonna be fine as long as you keep up with water changes and practice patience.
u/codfos · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.

Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.

Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.

u/Elhazar · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Well, it does is a hard challenge for a beginner, but doing a properly carpeted nano-Aquascape (~20l <=> ~5g <=> ~2.0 × 10^-2 m^3) with DIY CO2 and a small sponge filter is doable in <150$

A quick, small suggestion:

Tank, ~13l <=> 3.4g, 40$

Soil, 20$

Light, 40$

stones, 25$

Filter, 10$,


1 pot Monte carlo or some other easy carpet plant at your lfs: 8€

We‘re left with 7$ for ~4 RCS, I guess.

I assumed you construct you DIY CO2 from an old bottle with sugar and yeast, so 0$ effetivly.

For cycling and food some free samples of fish food does the job. When food rots it emits ammonia, that could be used for cycling.

So here we go, every thing ready for a nice iwagumi-aquascape. If you do well, it might looks like this (That Tank has HC as carpet, but Monte carlo looks similar)!

Well, if you‘re willing to put up a dozens of hours on studying to to properly keep a planted tank.

edit: Wrong link for tank, this was the one I mistakenly linked to. Still a nice, small tank, tho. Also some additions for clearance.


u/ElMangosto · 1 pointr/Aquariums

If you want to make it all much easier, just get the ten gallon tank and then get him to squeeze his filter sponge into your filter. If you do that and wait a few weeks you should be ready to rock. You could even add the fish right away if you can commit to testing the water every day. You only need two things for testing the water.

5-in-1 strips

And ammonia strips

And one thing to fix it.

Basically, the squeeze from your friends tank will give you the bacteria you need. Putting a fish in will give those bacteria something to eat (fish poop breaking down) until the bacteria colony is fully established. pH isn't a real issue with bettas as long as it stays roughly the same.

You just have to use both test strips every day, if anything spikes (nitrites will spike right before you are done) then change the water 30% and replace it with new water treated with that dechlorinator. A couple weeks in, all of the sudden you won't be getting any ammonia, you will have no nitrites, and you will have just a little nitrate meaning you are done. From then on just test and replace a gallon of water per week (always using dechlorinator).

The heater is the easiest thing! Most are set up to automatically sit at 78 degrees which is perfect for a betta. They like still water so if you can, grab an internal filter like the Whisper 10i. It moves the water less.

I'm fairly new at this, so if anything up there is inaccurate someone please chime in!

u/Jaze555 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

u/Themehmeh · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I really like these filters
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM

for a 30 gallon tank you'd want one capable of up to 50 gallons or so.

Theyre great because of the three separate cartridges- Also, ignore the packaging, you can reuse the sponge and the ceramic rings indefinitely unless a terrible awful disease breaks out. So this filter saves you money too!!

Edit: Puffers are usually too big/aggressive/brackish to include in a tank like this. Unless you had mollies/platys which have a high salt tolerance. Cories have zero salt tolerance tough.

Some of my favorite community fish are Galaxy Rasbora or Celestial Pearl Danio (same fish) I also like Badis. Theyre anabantids(sp) like the Betta.

I'd also highly recommend live plants. they really make you look good. Aquariumplants.com has total and trace substrate pellet fertilizer which Is pretty good at keeping them well fed.

u/d8ne4m6 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Snail better to be nerite, they do not reproduce in freshwater and you will have no snail infestation as with ramshorns or hitchhiking on live plants pond snails (you could use alum dip for eliminating them before adding plants to the tank). How many is hard to say, from what I have read, they feed on found in tank algae, if not enough food, they could die, and betta tank has to be kept clean. I have one in 5 gal.

Have no knowledge of big snails like apple or mystery snails, but every snail is a poop factory and the bigger snail the more poop, and bettas need clean water.

1-2 sponge filters with curved outflow should be the best, slowest flow and some filtration, there is even version with biomedia behind the sponge, but compare their sizes, the last one could be much bigger. And a heater to 10 gal size.

Shrimp could be dwarf neocaridina shrimp, like cherry shrimp, blue dreams, Rilis, but their young could be eaten by betta, keep some protected from him area in the tank. This is betta's temperament dependent. 6 should be enough, then they reproduce after becoming adults. You can put there 10-15 too, but mind that each pregnancy results 24-26 babies.

Ghost shrimp are big and may or may not bother betta when he sleeps, so feed them well, if you decide to keep them, 5 should be enough. When buying, watch for an absence of long arms, these would be other species that grow even bigger and you wouldn't like them with small fish.

u/H_Mc · 2 pointsr/bettafish

1- I’m aware of the window issue, but my house is full of windows (no complaints there!) and there wasn’t a better spot. That window is north facing and we rarely open the blinds.
2- except for the somewhat impulse bought setup I’m over planning.
3- substrate is sand and river stones.
4- I’m probably going with no background anyways, just out of laziness. I like the light strip idea.
5- definitely going with real plants
6- obviously. :) I have a dumbo plakat
7- I’m 100% getting corys. Do the different types have different personalities or just coloration? I’m leaning towards panda. I’m probably getting Harlequin Rasboras. I’m considering a snail because of the window/algae situation. I’m going to stock it really slowly though.
8- it came with a light.
9- already bought this filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kbSaBb411RKF2
10-13- already done
14- probably going with a floating log (or two)
15- I might use the small tank I’m moving my betta out of for shrimp.
16- will do. In the small tank I have I use a turkey baster as a “vacuum”, that’s not going to work anymore. Haha.

I’ll definitely post updates :)

u/cosalich · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I'm going to preface this by saying I am a fish breeder with multiple sponge, HOB & canister filters. That includes both the eheim classic canisters and the fluval canisters.

In my opinion, fluval's non-fx line has the worst price to performance out of any canister filter. You overpay for how much filtration you get. Some of the features (like the 'flow control') are useless as you always want it maxed. The hose removal system is pretty decent, but even the cheap sunsun canisters have that.

Personally, if I were in your shoes, I'd buy 2 of these. $185.96 and you will need to buy some media of your choice as well.

When it comes to goldfish especially, pumping as much water through your media as possible is key, and this would give you redundancy to only have to clean one filter at a time while the other remains undisturbed.

I have noticed you're considering an FX4 as well. That's definitely better than the 406, and if you can get it discounted deeply enough it will be a great filter.

u/snailicide · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I do like it, but at least for me the lack of ball valves definitely deter me from cleaning it as much as I should and and to buy them separate is expensive enough where I should have just got an Eheim. It’s so easy to just close the valves and carry canister to the sink.
I do have this filter on a ten gallon( tiny sun sun canister ) which doesn’t have ball valves but is a more manageable size and would probably be perfect for a ten gall betta tank ... Sunsun Tech'n'Toy HW-603B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CC6SCJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MVIpDb130RAQR I believe it comes with Lots of sponges so u just need to get your own ceramic rings. It’s not as overpowered, but it works well and has a nice spray bar. I love canisters because they are very QUIET !

u/Xinophial · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Otocinclus Catfish are small algae eating armored catfish that get about 2 inches long. They are shy, peaceful fish that eat algae. You can compare them to a dwarf pleco pretty much.
There is no need to QT plants and I'm not sure what you mean by which way the stems will grow out from. The only thing I can think of is that you're asking which way you should plant the seeds? Plants always grow towards the light, so you should have no problems there. I would recommend starting with plants that are already grown though. This way, even if you have low lighting, they'll be a decent size and you won't have to wait ages for them to grow.

I see you have new questions! Here we go:

  • Aqueon Versa top lids will fit pretty much any tank. If you get a standard 10g you can order this and it will work fine for you. As for lighting, I use this. It grows my plants ridiculously fast and also has blue lights for nighttime use. It as adjustable "feet" so it's guaranteed to fit your aquarium.
  • I would suggest a Aquaclear 20 or Marineland Filter for your tank. Aquaclear is pretty much the best thing ever. If you're worried about flow, there is a slide option on the top that will reduce the amount of water coming out. You can set it to whatever you like.
  • Tannins are a compound found in plants, this will not hurt your fish at all. However, if not removed, the tannins will color your water yellow. I haven't seen pre-soaked driftwood in petsmart/petco. You can try ordering it online and simply boiling it or soaking for a few weeks to get the tannins out.
  • I make bullet points by clicking the bullets option above the comment box, this may be a feature of reddit RES though. You can make bullets simply by typing * and putting a space behind it.
u/imthatpeep100 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I think you did okay, but I personally just rinse a tank with diluted bleach, thoroughly rinse then air dry the tank upside down in a dry place for over 24 hours. This ensures all the bleach has fully evaporated before I use it. If it had calcium build up, I'd use vinegar, baking soda and pillow stuffing to scrub it off (harder stains I usually get a paint scraper to get off and get the smaller stains with my homemade cleaner).

Aquaclear filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I love these filters. They're beginner friendly, decent price and adjustable flow-- my betta loves his. I recommend just using pillow stuffing (ensure it's not the kind that is fire proof since that has harmful chemicals). Give it monthly, harsh shakes in old filter water to get junk out and put it back in the filter to keep nitrates down in your filter (of course along with weekly water changes). I picked up the pillow stuffing trick from a guy in the hobby for over 40 years. I've been using pillow stuffing for a few months and it's been going great so far :D

u/ShadowRancher · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have smaller aquaclears that I love, they have the advantage of being easy to clean (no cracking open a pressurized canister) so I find I do it more. I have this sunsun that I run on my winter goldfish tank that I like and you could probably get away with just one on a lower bioload community tank. Again the disadvantage of any canister is taking it apart to clean but honestly it's not that hard, especially if you aren't running it on a super high bioload fish like me so it needs to be cleaned once a week.

u/UrstoWhobutt · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I recommend upgrading your filter. Those whisper filters are pretty crappy IMO mostly due to the cartridge system they use. Pretty much everyone loves aquaclear filters and I'm a fan of my C2.

Unless your Ph is crazy high (8+) I wouldn't mess with it. A stable Ph is more important than a "proper" Ph in most cases.

Good Luck!

u/HazekQT · 2 pointsr/bettafish

3/12/15 Update!

http://imgur.com/a82EFp5

I got a brand new filter, the aqueon quietflow internal filter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426184823&sr=1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

Put it in my tank, did a 50% water change, and waited about half an hour and my tank is absolutely crystal clear! I'm so happy I decided to take your advice and get a filter. I'm sure there will be tough days ahead, but for now I'm celebrating a small victory.

The shrimp are being mischievous as usual, and my betta is currently exploring his new/old tank. (I moved some stuff around).

My only real complaint right now is the plants don't really hide the stuff as much as I had hoped, but I can always move the stuff around later on.

Oh, I also added a tiny bit (Half a cap) of Bacteria.

Anything else I should do in the meantime?

Thanks for any and all help!


u/apoptart · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FUM
thats the filter equivalent of your p200. or you could go up to a 70. but the main thing is the bio media in the back. swap out the carbon for even more and you have a super strong bio filter going on.

this canister is pretty cool too. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406263645&sr=1-1&keywords=fluval+206

u/weenie2323 · 5 pointsr/nanotank

Go for a tiny canister filter and hide it under the tank! All you will see are a small intake and spray bar/outflow tube. This is a good one, SunSun HW-602B 106 GPH 3-Stage External Canister Filter. For a SUPER clean look get a set of glass "lily pipes" for the intake/outflow. Don't be intimidated by a canister filter they really work great and are easy to maintain, I only rinse out my filter material every 3 months on my Fluval 406 on my 40gal.

u/latinsonic · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.

u/perhapsso · 1 pointr/bettafish

Way to go with the upgrade! I'd go with the Aquaclear 20 and the EHEIM Jager heater. The heater my be a slight bit more than others but it's not going to fall apart in a year and need to be replaced. Cobalt Neo-Therm is by far my favorite heater is more expensive but so easy to set an looks much better in the tank.

Edit: Also wanted to add that you should save any filter media from your 2.5 tank to add to the new filter. This will help you get you new tank cycled a bit faster.

u/southerncoyote · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

Do you know what kind of cichlids and catfish you have? There aren't many that are appropriate for a 15 gallon tank as they will grow too large.

An aquaclear 30 would work well for the tank and it's not too expensive. You can use play sand as a substrate, but you have to rinse it really well before you put it in the tank. You can get it from home improvement stores or Walmart for cheap. Good plants would be any low light, hardy plants like anubias, water wisteria, java ferns, anacharis, etc. and they can be bought from petsmart, petco, any other local fish stores, or online.

When you're renovating the tank you can keep them in a large bucket with a bubbler.

u/thedan667 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

My Ammonia and Nitrites spiked. After some help from you all my fish couldn't be happier. I got a second filter The AC50. I am leaving the old filter running in the tank for 6+ weeks to help grow good bacteria. I currently dont have another tank so I will leave both filter running, that and with 25% water changes every other day for a week plus Prime and Stability the fish should be quite happy.

  • Slow water changes rate down to weekly.
  • Next plan is to get some plants and a better lighting.
  • Maybe start my plants in a second 10g tank, then move a few over to my big tank.
  • My SO isnt too happy about my plan to spend more money on my fish tank but I enjoy it. so will see :D


    Thank you guys so much for all your help.
u/LittleLychee · 4 pointsr/bettafish

So! I read through both of the care sheets that someone recommended and saw that they do not cover specific equipment. I'll give you a list of items for a split 10 gallon setup that I highly recommend to beginners; 10 gallon tank with hood, 10 gallon tank divider, Eheim Jager 50W fully adjustable/submersible heater, the safest on the market, TWO of these Azoo Mignon 150 (5 gallon capacity) fountain-style [filters] (http://www.amazon.com/Azoo-Mignon-Filter-150-Power/dp/B006KY1MF2) (One for each side of the tank as you'll want to run them on their lowest flow strength in order to avoid disturbing the fish, not to mention that the divider does not support good water flow between the two sides). This hardware setup should cost a bit over $100. I know it may sound pricey at first but it will be well worth it for happy, healthy bettas. Here's my male elephant ear, Beau!

u/Rufi0h · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I just recently purchased a 125 gallon tank and am slowly building up all the stuff to get it set up. I am looking at filters now and was looking for advice. I plan on planting it pretty heavily and stocking it with some big fish like black knife ghost fish, some catfish, and arrowana (knowing i will upgrade the size of the tank) I was looking at possibly doing an aquaclear. The 110 seems like its slightly too small for my tank which brings me to my question. would it be better to use 2 aquaclear 70 or 3 aquaclear 50 to make up for the size? are there some nice canister that would look and function better than multiple aquaclears? Thanks.

u/fartqueen7 · 1 pointr/bettafish

I have the first tank you posted, it works great! And also, you should consider putting some dwarf frogs in there (maximum two) but probably not any fish. You would need a bigger tank to add some fish!

here's a good tank heater:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

you're also going to need a filter, even if the people at petco say you don't.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426271069&sr=1-1&keywords=1-3+gallon+filter

I got rid of the under gravel "filter" that came with the tank and installed this one instead, leaving out that stupid plastic tube that came with the tank.

With all of these resources you should have a super healthy happy betta!

u/MakeupDumbAss · 1 pointr/Cichlid

> Well, if the husband doesn't want to be Aquarium Robert Smith, just wait.

Cure reference, nice.

> The cheapest way would be to purchase a good HOB filter like an Aquaclear 70 or a fluval C5, though you can get a SunSun canister through amazon at just barely a little more. You're definitely going to want both filters on as you're cycling.

Is this one appropriate? Then to confirm, you are saying run both the 220 that we already have and the SunSun?

> Speaking of which, you've mentioned you're cycling your tank currently--what method are you using to cycle it and do you have a testing kit for your water parameters?

The tank has been filled & there are some cherry shrimp in there right now (We'll find them another home before the cichlids hit the tank.) My husband was in charge of the cycling process, but I can tell you he did some minimal reading & then winged it LOL. He put a used filter from our other tank in there for a week or so in a mesh bag, along with a decent amount of gravel from an active tank. We have since removed all of that so we could put in the sand to prepare for the cichlids. Other than that, cycling has mostly just been waiting (2-3 weeks so far). We tested for ph & ammonia. Ammonia is 0 and I don't remember what the ph was offhand (but it was within range of the cichlids I was considering at the time). We'll need to test that again anyway since we pulled the gravel & put in the sand this past weekend. I also ordered a water hardness test that hasn't arrived yet after reading that cichlids seem to like hard water.

u/avatar0810 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I absolutely hate tetra filters. They are junk. My top fin filter actually worked pretty well but it just didn’t last very long. It sounds like yours is really good though. You can’t go wrong with adjustable flow either. If you ever need another or get a bigger tank you should check this aqua clear filter out. I got it after my top fin quit working and I love it. It’s adjustable too and they have them for all different size tanks.

u/GuiltyKitty · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Thank you for the great reply! :) I know already I will feel sorry for the baby fish and the eggs, but nature and its course etc :)

So if one keeps the fry and grows them up... What do you do then? Can someone sell to a store if they're pretty? Not like I'm interested in breeding, just curious.

As for the filter, I was thinking of this one.
What do you think?

u/Wolkii · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Had the same tank a few years ago and the filter it comes with is realy shit...
I have choosen this one and was realy happy with it! Good power and easy to clean or to stock with other materials.
AquaClear 20 Power Filter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3gEzb9DD6XDR
My dad also has one of these for his tank, also happy with it.

Edit: and this one is nearly noisless i found.

u/Bachstar · 3 pointsr/Fish

A walmart tank should be fine. The key thing to do (if the store will let you) is to ask if you can fill it with water first to make sure there are no leaks. For a betta, you really don't need a Fluval or anything. Those are for once you get addicted to the hobby. :) Bettas do need space, but they don't necessarily need anything super fancy.

And especially with bettas, the fish you purchase at the store may not be in the healthiest of conditions when you get them. Did you pick him out of a bunch of bettas sitting in one-cup containers? That's how most stores deal with bettas because they're capable of surviving that way. But it means that you'll often end up with a fish that's already sickly when you got him.

The thing to bear in mind when you're starting the aquarium hobby is that it really is a lifetime of learning. Aquariums can have a steep learning curve that's made more difficult because you're dealing with living creatures. Try not to get frustrated or downhearted - it really is something we've all gone through as we're learning how to care for them.

You're taking the right steps in asking questions (bear in mind that it's difficult to diagnose without seeing the fish closeup so we're not able to easily diagnose your fish; all we can really do is recommend ways to fix your tank setup). And it just sucks that the treatment involves spending money. As far as filters go, I've had success with the Tetra Whisper. It worked fine for me - I ended up upgrading, but that was only because I wanted a bigger tank.





u/RandyHoward · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

No that's not going to work - the CO2 in the water is going to bubble up and out of your tank in a hurry, much faster than any benefit you'd possibly get from it. This is a relatively inexpensive system that I've had on my 20 gal tank for the better part of a year and it has given me great results. Most people will tell you not to waste your money on these little co2 cartridges, but I've found it a pretty cost effective way to run co2 on a small tank. The little cartridges last a surprisingly long time.

u/deanwinchestear · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.

u/TheLillin · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I'm two weeks in to my switch from a HOB to a Sunsun canister and I have no clue how I survived without the Sunsun. I love it. It's virtually silent, moved much more water, better flow... I adore it. Very easy to put together(Aside from the pipes, I had to stare at them for a couple minutes and try to find my center of peace). Make sure that you trim your hoses appropriately, though. It makes priming seriously easy.

This is the one I got. Pretty basic, but a great price for what you get! I have it in my 20 tall.

u/stave · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I set my tank up about a month ago. I'm still new, but I've learned a lot so far.

  1. I started with basic guppies. I've heard that rasboras, mollies, platies, corydoras, and danios are also very easy to take care of. Here's a list of "beginner" fish.

  2. I started with 37G. It's a bit big. Water changes are frequent things, and the bigger your tank, the more you have to do. That said, the smaller your tank, the more your water condition can fluctuate/spike. I'd recommend a 20G long - the depth of my tank is the most annoying for me.

  3. Yep. I'm doing fish-in cycling, and it's a pain.

  4. Yep. Get one that will run through your entire tank's volume multiple times an hour. You want a filter rated for more than your tank - if you do 20G, and get a 20G-rated filter, you're just baaarely doing enough filtration. Aquaclear has very good reviews.

  5. Probably a couple hundred bucks. Don't forget, you'll probably need a heater, too!
u/carabobo · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Awesome thank you for the help.

Im thinking of switching out my filter and purchasing this one:

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1457978000&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear

It appears as though this one makes it easier to install the 3 different types of filters rather than the current filter I own.

Can I go ahead and make the switch or is there something I should know? Thanks!

u/Gredival · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

The cheapest way to do things is much more reliant on Amazon than Petsmart or Petco.

Substrate: Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. You can get 20-40lbs of this for under $10 compared to roughly $1 for 1lb that pet store gravel/sand costs. It's also prewashed, which is nice. You can go with a special planted substrate, but for the most part you can get the same benefits by just dosing ferts or using root tabs. The one exception is if you are willing to spend more to get a clay based substrate like ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which are much more expensive (the cheap alternative to that is to use the Walstad method of using dirt on the bottom and capping it with sand). A sand layer should be about 3" max. More than that and you could start developing anaerobic pockets.

Filtration: Air Pump Sponge Filters. I'd recommend getting two of these and placing one on each side but you can get by with one. I recommend the Walmart Aqua Culture 60 Gallon Air Pump to run them. It only costs $11 and surprisingly this Wal-Mart brand pump is the quietest air pump I've ever used -- much quieter than anything else I've tried. However you can go with any air pump you can find at Petco or Petsmart but they will cost more. You can rinse sponge filters out with old aquarium water when you do a water change, which saves you money in the long run vs. buying cartridges for a hang-on-back box style filter. However if you want to go with a box filter, I'd recommend AquaClear. They may be available at Petco or Petsmart, but likely at a higher price than amazon.

Heater: Aquatop Heaters from Amazon. For a 10G you only need the 50W, but for only $1.50 more you might as well get the 200W version so that if you ever upgrade you don't have to buy another. Since this line of heater has adjustable temperature and will turn off when the water is heated, it doesn't matter if you overbuy on heating. You can get other brands at Petco or Petsmart, but you'll probably be paying more for less.

Lighting: If you are going low tech, you should probably just buy a tank that comes with a hood and light (but avoid the full kit that comes filter/heater/etc. because you can get all of that cheaper separately). Hoods with matching lighting are really hard to get after the fact. If you go high tech, this sort of lighting is inadequate so you'd want to go a different route.

u/Patai3295 · 1 pointr/freshwateraquarium

Hey this isn't. ...THE bamabass is it ?

Question though I just started a 10g it's been running for about a week initially I put the start zyme in it, yesterday I upgraded to a new filter and today my buddy gave me a 16oz bottle of his trap water ( cant remember the correct terminology for it ) all dark brown good nutrients... he says I can start adding afew fish pretty much the next day since my filter has the good good in it now lol is that true or should I wait

New filter
AquaClear 20 Power Filter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YO55Bb855P1A0

u/wrayworks · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have a Penguin 350 filling in on a 55 gallon tank with a Red-ear slider in it, since my canister bit the dust about a week ago. It's pretty old, but it's a workhorse. It really moves a considerable amount of water, and keeps the turtle tank pretty clean which is impressive because even one turtle generates substantially more waste than a whole aquarium of fish.

I was actually considering buying another Penguin 350 filter just to have on hand since Amazon dropped the price down this week...

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Aquariums

There are a few things I've done. You can see it all in this album http://imgur.com/a/2A39r

I wanted to grow plants in the aquarium, but their little LEDs were pretty awful, and since the LEDs are submerged, they'll grow algae directly on them and get a greenish ugly hue. I replaced both the light and filter. I also needed to be able to hook a timer up to it, which their filter/light combo wouldn't allow me to do.

http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-A13957-Fluval-Chi-Cover/dp/B005QRDEDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

Here's the Fluval Chi lid that I have. I had to cut out a portion on the side to fit the filter in. It's TERRIBLE to cut though, I had to use a saw and just saw through the thing. It took me like an hour and a half of frustration to do, but it was worth it.

This is the filter I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ The Aquaclear 20. I bought a prefilter sponge to go on it, which is useful for protecting the smaller critters of the aquarium. If you aren't interested in upgrading the lighting, you could just get this and slap it on the side most likely, then put the filter/light box that comes with it on a timer or something.

The work light is just a standard work light which can be found at Wal Mart or any home improvement store. I used aquarium silicon to adhere it to the plastic lid. The bulb is a 13 watt 6500k color temperature compact fluorescent bulb, which also came from Wal Mart.

The plants love this setup, and the water is always extremely clear and well-filtered. It ends up becoming a bigger investment than it should with the base price of the aquarium, but it turns out looking really awesome once it's all done. In the end, you get a well-filtered aquarium with medium lighting that works on a timer, as opposed to Fluval's setup which evaporates water at a crazy fast pace and gooks up pretty quickly.

u/Tycheee · 1 pointr/Aquariums

So just to make sure I am getting this. You are saying that fishless cycling should be keeping the tank at 2-4 ppm (what is ppm?) ammonia for 24 hours. So basically I'll add 2-4 ppm(s) of 10% ammonia (which I find by doing the shake test, if it bubbles it's good if it doesn't bubble it's not, correct?) and after 24 hours if the tank doesn't read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 0 nitrates I should put another 2-4 ppm(s) in? Also, I purchased [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) filter and I now see that it has carbon in it. Should I send it back and get a new one? If yes what do you suggest? Also, when buying pebbles from a bag, should I soak those like people soak drift wood to clean them or are they good to go right into the tank? Sorry for all the questions I just keep thinking of them :P.

u/canon87 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

You need some airline tubing, a check valve, and an air pump to make this work. I listed the links for those below. Other than its size I think it will be okay for a 10 gallon tank. for the 29g tank it depends on what youre stocking. If you want to keep things like shrimp or fry then a sponge filter is probably best because its gentle. If youre keeping adult fish then go with a hob. I recommend an aquaclear 50.

Airline kit with accessories:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0IC9JA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

HOB:
https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-70-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FUM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506690345&sr=1-3&keywords=aquaclear&th=1

u/suxer · 5 pointsr/bettafish

Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.

After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.

A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.

In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:

Heater: Eheim 25 watt.


Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.



Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.

An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:

Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.

Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.

Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.

For plants Im thinking something like this:

Fluval Anubias 12'.

Fluval Lizard Tail.

Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.

Soil - ADA Africana.

Sand - something along that color.

I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).

Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.

u/princessodactyl · 1 pointr/Aquariums

It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.

If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:

  • get a standard 20 gallon tank at the dollar per gallon sale ($20)
  • filter: Aquaclear 30 ($30)
  • heater: Hydor 50W($20)
  • lights: Nicrew LED 20-27"($30)

    Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.
u/Year1939 · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

With those plants yes you do need c02. And very high lighting. That light probabaly won't be enough. I'd guess you'd need two of those. Personally if you're trying to save money I would just go buy a 48 inch t5-t12 4 bulb shop light and hang it above the tank. For the c02 if you want to save money you could buy a paintball c02 tank, a small adaptor, and then a regulator/solenoid for that. And then you will want to buy and diffuser/atomizer/reactor. Personally I would go with an inline reactor you'll save a ton of c02 and there for more money. All of these things I just mentioned can be bought on amazon.

Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWAJGW0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Xvk-wb1EQ4JXR

(Bulbs for lighting: www.amazon.com/dp/B005OLL5IG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_yyk-wbCP0NEWE)

C02: (tank) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_Bzk-wbCKB2M5G

(Adaptor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_DAk-wbPXGA6R8

(Regulator) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydroponics-Extoic-Injection-System-Regulator-Grow-Room-Flow-Meter-Control-CO2/221446697164?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35626%26meid%3D2b21bf0137344d8aa2d826341e206413%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321217917654

(sorry for the long link)

(Reactor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGJDXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_2Ck-wbWCH2VM5

^you do need a canister filter for that so if you don't have one of those here's a cheap one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00896IILA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_VGk-wbNBS50GK


Realistically this is just the beginning of things you'll need to get a tank like that. But that is a cheap and good start. If you have any questions feel free to ask. It can be daunting but it's worth it!

u/Terofyin · 2 pointsr/ReefTank

If you're excluding live/dry rock 500$ is enough to get you an okay start into the hobby. Lighting will probably be your most expensive piece of hardware and there are some really good deals on Ebay right now for cheap LED's Like the D120's and Aquamana on Amazon is also a good LED for a cheap price.

If you want to go HoB filter with maybe a fuge mod this is a popular build and is only 41$

I don't know much about skimmers but they can be pricey, but if you don't overstock the tank I'm not sure if a skimmer will be absolutely necessary.

There are also things to take into account like thermometer and power heads, though you can find good ones online for reasonable prices there are a large amount options and it kinda depends on doing your own research and going with something, those things could run for a total of around 100$.

u/ChiefBigGay · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401931978&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

A little pricy but very good reviews, very customizable as to what kind of media you want though and easy to clean.

u/EienShinwa · 1 pointr/Aquariums

The Aquaclear filters are a great HOB filter that is reliable and very generous with the amount of filtration space it provides. There's also the Azoo Mignon Filter which is equally as good and has space in the back for a small heater if you can fit it.

u/MandiPandaBear · 2 pointsr/bettafish

How long have you had her? Sometimes it takes new fish a while to figure out the whole feeding thing. Just gently tap on the glass to get her attention and make sure she sees you putting the food in.

For a filter, I really like my Aqueon internal filter. Just get rid of the cartridge and replace with the media of your choice and there you go. Adjustable spray makes it nice, I stick it in a corner and set it a little against the wall and it makes a fun circle current for mine to play in that isn't super strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I

u/PhxSentry · 3 pointsr/Jarrariums

This Beauty, I had done ALOT of research to find a solid little filter that i could keep the water circulated in and just keep larger debris out of the water. I would read up on some of the modifications needed to throttle the flow (basically add more sponges to the baskets or bio media) I love it. for this jar its perfect. I'm Actually thinking about ordering a couple more to have on hand in case i want to have couple jars going at once. EDIT: Forgot to mention went with this one because its fully submersible and doesn't rely on an Air pump. I can keep the lid closed on my jar.

u/Quesenek · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

For the light this one looks pretty good for a clip on Lominie Asta 20 Freshwater.

For the filter I will always recommend aquaclear for HOB, the aquaclear 20 would be a good fit.

u/hispeedzintarwebz · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

Aquaclear 50 is what I use on my 20 gallon, and it works well - you can skip the bullshit cartridges that most manufacturers use, I added some floss padding and purigen to polish the water (clarity) and threw out the charcoal filter that came with it. You also might need to cut the sponge that comes with it in half laterally to fit all of this and still have the bio media submerged, but that's easy.

Aquaclear 50 on Amazon

Filter floss on Amazon

Purigen on Amazon

Your LFS will likely have all of these things as well, so it's up to you if you're in a rush or want to save a few $$$ by using Amazon.

And, lastly, this is just what works for me. You might try a different setup - but many other HOB filters don't allow you to customize the filtration all that much, and are just there to sell you cartridges.

HOB filters are the Gilette of the aquarium hobby.

u/Kaleb_epic · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I know this might sound like bum advice but what about a nice sized plastic container? Here is a 16 gallon one for 6 dollars. It'd be ugly but hey it's better than a vase. For filter and heater though that's a bit more difficult.

I suggest this for how cheap it is and it does a fine job (if not a little strong).

For a heater this one works okay. You have to keep an eye on it but it's also cheap and I have some that have lasted me a great while.

u/jynnjynn · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

You can't. You need a pump or filter for water circulation.

Something like this will do, or if you want something a little better.. this is a really good little filter, and wont take up valuable space inside your tank. You could just do an airstone as well, but actual filtration is way better.

What are you hoping to put in that tank? 1.5g is too small for anything but shrimp.

u/Ralierwe · 3 pointsr/nanotank

They are separate things, at my knowledge:

Low profile filter:

  • Marina Slim S10 hang on the back filter. Pros: smallest clearance between wall and tank, self priming after power outage, DIY custom filter media is shown on YouTube. Cons: could vibrate (needs adjusting its position or adding rubber pads), hand to clean bottom of the filter.

  • Canister filter, low flow kind. Pros: only input and output tubes are visible, if they are glass "lily pipes", even better. Cons: more expensive, cheaper kinds have to be next to the tank, not below it; some are hard to open for a cleaning and close and prime (start water running) after closing. Read reviews for each brand.

  • Matten filter looks like thick sponge insert in the tank, at the short end or in the corner. Pros: low maintenance. Cons: more expensive than common filters, could be not suitable for your setup, not readily available, and not a filter, strictly speaking, see the link above.

    Small:

  • Azoo Mignon 150 or 360, the same is sold under other names: Deep Blue Biomax nano filter, Aquarium Masters mini filter. Pros: small. Cons: small, not much place for filter media, not self priming, hard to clean intake tube.

    Low cost:

  • T-shaped sponge filter, fed by air pump. Pros: good as mechanical and bimedia, fish and shrimp are safe. Cons: air pump is louder than water pumps, you have to squeeze it well in old tank water during cleaning.

  • Double corner filter, hidden behind plant or decoration. Pros: more space for any media. Cons: air pump, and the filter is noticeable.

    Other:

  • Aqua Clear HOBs are polular.

  • Tidal HOBs are self priming.

    Sand as a substrate:

    Not play sand (too dirty and too fine), not too fine, not too thick layer, should be inert.
u/IAMASquatch · 1 pointr/Aquariums

I have a 20 gallon that I use two Aqua Clears with. They are simple and inexpensive.


http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-30-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B00020SVDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381960009&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+30

I had a biowheel but the wheel kept stopping. I think a canister is kinda overkill for such a small tank. Plus, it's expensive. I love the aquaclear's ability to mix and match media. I used the sponge along with some Purigen and ceramic stones for bacteria. The only problem I had was my plants kept fouling the intake tube when bits got caught in there but I simply had to take out the tube and clean it.

I say you get that and if it you like the hobby, then you can invest in a canister.

u/hannahsemptyspaces · 1 pointr/bettafish

Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)

u/singluon · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I bought this the other day (10 gal):

https://www.aqueon.com/products/aquarium-starter-kits/ascent-frameless-led-kits

I really love the way it looks. The light is fine for low/medium plants and the filter is fine too although the flow is non-adjustable. I actually swapped it out for this little guy with adjustable flow since I'll have a Betta in here and they don't really like current.

The tank looks really cool in person - way better than the typical aquarium w/ black plastic lid and HOB filter.

u/gold_miner_94 · 1 pointr/Aquariums

It probably is a translation error from the manufacturer. If you have ever read their manuals, it can get pretty funny with the translations. I would recommend looking for something that has a 20 gph rate max for a tank that small. Perhaps a HOB would be better. My smallest tank of all time was a 5 and I ran this on it. http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458025569&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+20 . Hope this might give you an idea!

u/yungdiehl · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Your tank is looking great! I honestly just got rid of the filter/light on my chi this morning; replaced it with this light and this filter. It's already much better!

u/LordeBiscuit · 2 pointsr/Goldfish

I use a UV sterilizer in my tank for a few hours a week. I especially turn it on after cleaning the sides of my tank. My water is crystal clear now and I don’t have to put any chemicals in my water. I actually did go the chemical route at first but it did t help me much. My brother had left the lights on in my tank for 13 days straight when I was out of the country and both brown and green algae plagued my tank for over a year. UV is the way to go for sure. This filter has a built in light and it’s top tier (they come in many sizes, this was just the first one that came up on my search).
https://www.amazon.com/HW-304B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO

u/Skrigga · 1 pointr/turtle

That Fluval filter is really good. I have the Fluval 406 and it has done extremely well. I know they're expensive but I also have the Sun-Sun HW302 without the Antibacterial UV light inside it on my hatchling tank, and it runs just as great. Here's a link to the sun sun I have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00892EN22/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453762040&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=sunsun+hw+302&dpPl=1&dpID=41YYhADjDJL&ref=plSrch

And as for gravel, I've never used it personally. The turtles don't care if they have rocks or sand or even just glass on the bottom. It's more aesthetically pleasing to the human owners though, the turtles won't care one way, or another.

u/El-Grunto · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I actually use the 304b on my decently heavily planted 75 and it's doing great. I love the 5 trays for media and how it's completely silent. The only problem I've noticed is that water flow all that great in the corner opposite to the spray bar.

u/Random_A_Irrelevant · 1 pointr/Goldfish

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Includes/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406499945&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20

This filter will filter up to 100 gph, which covers the minimum requirement of 10x the tank capacity (if you turn it all the way up and make sure it is never clogged) and is cheap. I use Aquaclear filters in both of my tanks and love them. Do not use the carbon insert unless you need to remove medication from the water. Instead get another little sack of biomedia to put in there for the beneficial bacteria to live in.

That said, please get your fish a larger tank with proper filtration as soon as possible.

u/blooomseer · 2 pointsr/bettafish

Here’s an inexpensive filter I use and a heater . You’re gonna need a API master test kit. It’s recommended that you cycle your tank. You can do a fishless cycle in which you’ll need ammonia to start the cycle. Or you can do fish-in cycling and add him after you put the water in.
Bettas love plants! Silk or real plants are the way to go, you should avoid plastic because it will rip their fins. if you get real plans i suggest java fern because it’s super hardy

u/thrillingthunderegg · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Oh yes definitely ditch that horrendous filter/light brick thing that comes with it, what a piece of junk! I replaced it with a hang on marina filter from amazon and its been amazing. I put a bag of purigen in place of one of the carbon cartridges and that seems to work pretty well too. The light is an aquatic nature solar duo-boy 26 watt version

u/PepperoniJustice · 1 pointr/Aquariums

When I had fiddler crabs, I had a set up similar to this. It was a 20gal long, which has the same length and width of a 29gal.

These are the products I remember using:

  • Hagen underwater filter
  • random sand at Petsmart. You could get away with something cheaper no problem.
  • whatever salt was at Petsmart
  • I live in a hot climate and didn't need a heater.
  • I used a bunch of rocks and gravel to keep the "beach" from collapsing and that was it. :)

    They were really fun, I hope you enjoy them! Watching them run around and dig holes and fight of territory was pretty entertaining.
u/a_gadddis · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

It could be too many plants not enough co2. I'd give it a shot as it should give your plants a boost to health either way. I highly recommend the fluval 20g co2 passive defuser! It's great for 5-10 gallons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049RL3H4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image