Reddit mentions: The best aquarium water pumps

It's not overprice. It's actually a very fairly price and well thought out kit. There's some unnecessary things, and the stock nuvo lights are fine (I actually have them only cause I got a sweet deal), but I would rather get the tank only and different lights. Here's my
attempt to piece that kit together with more ideal parts:

NUVO FUSION 20 BY INNOVATIVE MARINE ($200 anywhere)
This kit includes the TANK WITH THE LIGHTS, which are $400 MSRP. Just get the tank at $200. Use the $200 you would've spent on a better light and fixture:


AI PRIME HD AND MOUNT ($225 for light MSRP, $30 mount, MSRP)
This is a much better light. Stronger. Controllable (able to control all spectrums, set a sunrise sunset schedule, all from a mobile app). The Nuvo lights are just on and off, with no switch. You have to plug them into outlet timers. The AI PRIME is way better, for only a little more.


20 LBS. OF REEF SAVER ROCK ($52 bulk reef supply)
This is actually a good price per pound.


100 ML INSTANT OCEAN BIO-SPIRA (NOT NEEDED)
If you cycle your tank properly, this isn't needed.


4 OZ CLORAM-X AMMONIA REMOVER (NOT NEEDED)
You shouldn't be using a chlorinated water source to begin with, so declorinator only enables bad habits. Get RODI water from a local reef store, or make your own, or at the very worst, use vending machine water.


20 LB. SPECIAL GRADE ARAG-ALIVE! LIVE REEF SAND ($30 amazon)
You definitely want at LEAST special grade sand. Google it. Grain size matters. Too fine, and you'll get a sandstorm when the water is moved.
https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Special-Bimini/dp/B000EM2BRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479312554&sr=8-3&keywords=arag+alive


HW-MARINEMIX REEFER SALT MIX (DONT GET THIS SALT)
Instead, get the gold standard:


INSTANT OCEAN REEF CRYSTALS ($50 for enough to make 160 gallons, Drs Foster and Smith, also, FREE BUCKET!)
Make sure you get REEF CRYSTALS if you want corals (it's the orange box/bag), or you can get just the regular INSTANT OCEAN (purple box/bag) if you're doing fish only. This is the most trusted and widely used and available salt. I recommend you use it, so your corals always get the same consistency of nutrients, since this salt is sold everywhere and reliable.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4856


REFRACTOMETER FOR READING SALINITY WITH CALIBRATION FLUID (THESE ARE UNNECESSARY)
Accurate? Yes. Pain in the ass? Also yes. Always having to clean these and calibrate them sucks. Get a standard plastic floaty arrow hydrometer instead.


HYDROMETER ($11 amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-tk504-SeaTest-Hydrometer/dp/B00019JOSO


TUNZE CARE MAGNET NANO - 0220.010 CLEANER MAGNET (UNNECESSARILY OVERPRICED ITEM)
Everyone knows that when it comes to cleaning magnets, Mag Floats are the go to. Sure you can pay more, but you don't always get more.


MAGFLOAT SMALL ($12)
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU030SM-Mag-Float-Aquarium/dp/B003WRKVUC


MARINE S PELLET FISH FOOD - HIKARI (THERE ARE BETTER FOODS)
The best widely available pellet fish good is New Life Spectrum.


NEW LIFE SPECTRUM THERA A ($10 most online places)
They have big pellets and small pellets. Make sure you get the small pellets.


HMA-S 50W FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE HEATER (YOU COULD BUY YOUR OWN FOR CHEAPER)


EHEIM JAGER 50W HEATER ($23 amazon)
These are pretty well regarded and reliable heaters. Avoid getting the $15 chinese heaters, for a few bucks more this is a brand you can trust.
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003U82YEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313472&sr=8-1&keywords=50+w+heater+jager


HPS-100 FINNEX DIGITAL SUBMERSIBLE (GET ANOTHER FOR CHEAPER)
It's cool that the BRS team thought of this, but you can get your own large cheap heater for mixing water. Since it's a nuvo 20, and water changes would be around 2-5 gallons, a 150 watt or even 200 watt heater could warm up the water to match the tank pretty quickly.


EHEIM JAGER 150 WATT HEATER ($25 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Jager-Aquarium-Thermostat-Heater/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313666&sr=8-3&keywords=150w+heater


HYDOR KORALIA EVOLUTION POWERHEAD 600 ($29 Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Evolution-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B004F461UA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479313724&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+600


So as you can see, you can do it with better parts and remove unnecessary things, but you'd be paying $697 before tax. Personally, I would still rather part it myself, because I know I can find used AI primes with mounts for $150-$200 (check the classifieds of reef forums or you local club). Also, I don't have to buy some of this stuff because I'm already in the fish hobby and have leftover heaters, or have friends who are that can help me get started. But if you're in a hurry and want to start, or this is your first endeavor into fish keeping and have no fish keeping friends, the BRS kit is not bad at all and the convenience is nice.

PROTIP: If you do plan on buying something this big from BRS, i'll let you in on a trick. First, make an account if you don't already have one. Then, add the kit to your cart. Then, leave it there for a few days. You'll get an email reminding you that you have it in your cart, and since it's a large purchase, they'll give you a coupon (i forget the percentage) to encourage you to buy it. Then use the coupon and buy it lol. WINNING!

So, I have a standard 20 long. For circulation I run a Polario 10ml. It's a little overkill, and a 7ml would probably be more ideal, but I love the circulation throughout the tank and that its current reverses every 20 seconds to simulate the natural ebb and flow of the ocean. My corals have responded well to the increased and random flow, and the fish dno't mind it either. In addition, the one time I had need of their customer service, they were excellent and prompt. I recommend them to everyone looking for a new circulation pump

I custom built my sump from acrylic because I had a limited space for it, but it holds about 9 gallons total. I keep 7 lbs of live rock rubble in my first chamber, along with an Aquaticlife 115 protein skimmer. The skimmer isn't too bad. I wish it would produce less liquid and more solid skimmate, but it does create a pretty good amount of dark water over a few days, so I've been happy with it. I have a chaeto chamber next which also houses a Deep Blue UV Sterilizer. It's definitely helped slow down how fast algae grows on the tank walls. I bought it to see if it would help slow down the bryposis I've had the gross displeasure of dealing with. I would buy it again.

I put a 6 inch DSB in the next chamber, but I'm not convinced it ever set up properly. It's still a work in progress. Finally, I have a Marineland NJ1100 return pump, and some random heater stick I found lying around. The pump isn't bad, but I might choose something a little more powerful should I ever need to replace it. All in all I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Edit: I also use the Kent 2-Part Nano Reef supplement. I definitely notice a large difference in growth rates and vibrancy when I slack off for a while.

Edit Edit: Oh, and I have assorted corals including Blastos, Montis, Zoas, Some Ricordea, Digitata, Trumpets, plus others I just don't know the names of. There's also a Mini-Maxi Carpet Anemone, Black Blenny, Scooter Blenny, Red-Lined Cardinal, and a Yasha Goby/Tiger Pistol pair. I do a 10% to 20% water change each week to help replenish trace minerals. It would all be phenomenal if it weren't for the bryopsis. But, that's on it's way out too.

$200 should be plenty for a tank ~10 gallons. The component that is going to cost the most is a decent light. People hate on them, but chinese LEDs can be pretty effective for growing while still on a budget.

After you get a light that puts out a good spectrum / wattage, the next challenge you will have is a solution for your nutrient export. I swear by a good fuge, but with a nano this can be tricky. This would leave you with a nano skimmer, such as the SkimMate ghosts or, doing water changes religiously. If you plan on taking the water change route, then I would suggest getting an RODI filter.

As for what goes in the tank, the best way to save with things like live rock and live sand are to... Well... Make them yourself. Starting with dry rock and sand then doing a cycle will take much longer, but save money and ultimately lead to better results. Your LFS should have some reef-saver (florida lime stone) for around $2.50 per lb.

The key to a successful nano is not having to mess with it. Stability is the best thing for small tanks, even though it is the hardest thing to achieve. This means if you can afford the option that produces the least amount of change in the system (like an ATO to keep salinity stable) then take that option. Otherwise, do what is necessary to keep parameters inside a tight bound. Good luck!

Also, here are some links that might be helpful:

https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/open-box-skimmate-ghost-protein-skimmer-fullsize-innovative-marine/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoebsBRCHARIsAC3JP0JCPpWDY6Dhu2A-R-i4FbB5f3GlK5zO3apyMz6boG2iO6D0Y-EhIw4aAuHgEALw_wcB

Sunsun JVP-110 528-GPH Wavemaker Pumps, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LGRDF8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PNKMDbNV2XCVK

Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 100W for Marine Reef Fish Tank Sump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2L8DZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oOKMDb0XHVA50

WATT Shine Aquarium Light 140W LED Coral Light,Large Angle Dimmable Reef Light,Full Spectrum LED Aquarium Lights for Saltwater Reef White Blue Aquarium Lighting Marine Reef Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNDY9L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1OKMDbFK8DAQ2

Have disposable income. :) I had gotten some overtime hours at work, so I went ahead and took the plunge back into saltwater (pun intended).

These were the steps I took so far. I'm not sure if I did it right or not, but I've been able to keep things alive without any die-off, so I've got that going for me. In total, I've spent probably around $300 for the whole setup. Couldn't be happier!

Step 1: Acquire aquarium. This one is the Aqueon Cue 5 gallon, which has a stock led light of whites and blues with "moonlight" option. Put your aquarium on a sturdy, level surface away from sunlight (or in indirect sunlight if you must).

Step 2: Add pump for flow. I'm using the 80 GPH Uniclife found [here on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Step 3: Mix saltwater. I use distilled water from the store and Kent Marine Reef Salt Mix. It dissolves so quickly! I seriously use a white 5 gallon bucket and a spatula to mix it. I keep my salinity at 1.024.

Step 4: Let the water come to room temp. Measure salinity with a hydrometer (like the Instant Ocean brand). Be sure to rinse it off with fresh water every time you use it.

Step 5 (optional): Add barely 1/2 inch of live sand. I used CaribSea, 5 lb bag. Yes, you will have LOTS left over. Use it for craft projects!

Step 6: Add live rock. Not just any old live rock, I'm talking about the stuff that's been at your lfs for freakin' ever in the dark, unloved corner. This is more established rock and will help your cycle move along. Currently I have about 3.5 lbs in there.

Step 7: Put some live rock where filter floss will go and skip out on filter floss or carbon. Seriously, somehow this works.

Step 8: Add water. Wait several hours for your ensuing sand storm to die down. You're welcome to leave your extra pump off for this part. I did use some filter floss in the filter to catch loose detrius, but once the water was clear, I threw it out. Once your water is clear, turn the pump back on. By now you should have a thermometer in there, too. My tank stays at 73-74F most days.

Step 9: Make a tiny mark with a permanent marker where your "full" water line is. Every day, top off your tank with fresh distilled water up to that line. That way you can stay ahead of evaporation and keep your tank water at a stable salinity.

Step 10: Wait about 2-3 weeks. Watch your rock spring to life! I had all kinds of fun critters crawling on mine.

Step 11: Take a water sample to your lfs or pet store to be tested (Petco does it for free, which is where I went). If your parameters are good, move on to the next step. If not, wait another week. If it's still no good, consult reddit or start over.

Step 12: Add your cleanup crew! This can be an assortment of hermits, different types of snails and so forth. I've listed my current stock in another comment in this thread. My only complaint would be to have more things that eat more hair algae.

Step 13: Wait another 3 weeks. Ensure your livestock is still alive.

Step 14: By now you may notice brown algae clinging to your glass and rockwork. It's the ugly phase, but it'll pass. Scrub lightly on the glass to get rid of the algae. I use a piece of filter floss (but I'll be upgrading to a magnet cleaner today).

Step 15: First water change! Follow the water mixing procedures from above. Then, drain out 90% of the water from your tank and refll it back to your "full" line with the new fresh water.

Step 16: Wait a few days, then get your water tested again. If it's all good...

Step 17: Add corals. This setup doesn't really allow for hard-to-keep corals (unless I upgraded the light...), so try to go for easy, low-light ones that aren't particularly aggressive. You can get them from your lfs, from frag trading groups or online at larger retailers.

Step 18: Wait about a month. By now, you'll see some die off and some growth on your corals. That's great!!

Step 19: Stay on top of your monthly water changes. Remember: the more livestock you add, the less time you'll be able to get away with between water changes.

So far, that's what I've got. I want to add some chaeto or other saltwater plants to liven up the space some more. Might get a yellow clown goby or more frags, then I think I'll call it all good.

I change my water once a month and scrub my glass when the algae starts to be too much. The tank is constantly growing and changing. I'm new to the hobby but I'll be happy to answer any questions you have!

Sure! For starters I spent months researching eplaya and elsewhere on the web. There are some companies that sell turn-key systems, like Goal Zero, that seem crazy over-priced. I told myself I would’t charge anything to my CC and I’m pretty good at figuring shit out, so I wanted to take a cheaper route. I wanted avoid soldering a bunch of Chinese stuff together if I could. Once I figured out what I needed, I had to look for components…

Panel - I looked at everything from 5 watt panels for fountain pumps to big ass 100 watt panels. I am flying from the East Coast so I needed something portable. I was thinking I need 20 watts to be comfortable, so I looked for 30+ watt folding panels. A cherry-on-top feature would be both AC and DC power. I committed to a DC cooler system but it would be nice to charge phones and power banks too. If I am going to spend some cash, I don't want a single purpose device. I came across SunKingdom early on but the panels were mad expensive. Almost like Goal Zero expensive. Then one day out of the blue this guy popped up on sale! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTAFEJ6/ref=s9_hps_bw_g107_i4

I got it for $79! Very happy with it so far. I’ve used it several times already.

Charge Controller - This was pretty simple. I found one that could handle the load, was easy to use AND had two USB outs for good measure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018ICLC3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I must confess I don’t know how to “use” it. I plugged it in and it does what I need it to do for now. It has some really shitty instructions (none) so I hope I don’t need to figure out how to do something else with it.

Battery - I am going to buy a 100+ ah battery in Reno but I needed something to test with. I found this 12 v 12 ah battery on sale at Radio Shack for like $12. She told me it was for a discontinued Verizon cable box.

Bucket - I have a few Home Depot buckets around the house as a matter of course. I cut two rows the first time and decided I’d rather have one row of squared off holes instead of two rows of round holes. This way I get a lot of airflow and maximize the water holding capabilities of the bucket. I can probably fit another .75 gallons in my bucket with one row of holes.

Padding in the bucket - Went with FIGJAM’s suggestion for $22. It comes with two in case you fuck one up. Cut to FIGJAM’s spec and adjust as needed but give yourself an extra inch in all measures and fine tune from there. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UTNFPW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pump - I was told 60 gallons per hour (GPH) was good enough so I bought this for $10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWJIC0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At first I didn’t think it was powerful enough but I had a dead ass battery. After I charged it up, this little guy acted like a freshman going to prom with the homecoming queen. It squirts quite well. I bought 2 more as back up.

Tubes - I bought some tubbing at Home Depot and experimented. It’s took a few rounds of $5 tubes to figure out the spacing of the holes. I heated up a nail on my stove to poke holes in the tubes. Ended up with nice, clean holes.

Fan - VERY IMPORTANT PART - IF YOU CAN’T MOVE AIR, NOTHING ELSE MATTERS My smaller 4 person tent does’t need much so I thought a 150 cubic foot per minute (CFM) fan would be fine. I wasn’t crazy about the horsepower of my first fan that was $8: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099TTAIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I ordered a 200 CFM fan for $18: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054S92FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, I charged the battery and got MUCH better performance from the 150. However the 200 makes me feel like I ate a York Peppermint Patty so I am using it and taking the 150 as back up.

Connectors

• All “raw” cables get connected via these $5.55 things that are very easy to hook up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OCV5XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  My pump and fan need to go to one line so I got this for $4.38: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8IKRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  The “watch this” moment comes by the way of this $6 switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G6GNREI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I think that is everything. Now I need to figure out how to get a big ass battery from Reno to the Playa on Saturday, pre-gate. I can probably use my camps local asset or ask someone driving in.
  

Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.

Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).

The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.

The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.

I would just build your own dude. All those aero cloner things are is a manifold with (x) amount of holes drilled in and (x) amount of mister heads, a decent submersible pump, a container with a lid (or manufacture a lid to fit out of Styrofoam or something similar! Bonus here is you also get inserts to stick the clones in safely) Create a manifold to fit your container. Make it a capital H shape sort of like this.In the middle of the 'H' use a Tee so you can make the connection to the pump. Tap the holes, for this application you could just find some screws with similar threading and drill/remove the manifold to tap for the misters. Connect the manifold to the pump and stick it to the bottom of the container, then fill with water (can use light nutrient solution) right up UNDER the manifold, not over it. While your pump soaks for a second, cut holes in your lid. (or cut lid to fit if using foam) Remember to make a little slot for the pump cord! Give the pump a test run AWAY FROM STUFF YOU WANNA KEEP DRY! Make sure all the misters are spraying good and not leaking (at least not too bad, no need to be mega perfect here) Then just get your clones ready! I know lots of guys that just use the insulation squares(rock wool) and just make the lid holes to fit them. I personally like the foam approach as is just feels better for me and i feel like it will give less problems with mold and other yuckies. I like to top it off with a light cabinet handle right in the middle so you can easily lift the lid (I just basically stole the handle from countless other aero cloners please dont sue me clone king lol) With this method you can make many smaller cloners or some bigger ones just dial up on the pump GPH! Just my opinion, many smaller ones might be easier to work with as youd have all the separation you need for organizing! Happy cloning bud!

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

one of the best setups I've ever seen had roughly 5-6 500+gallon tanks.. beautifully colored and amazing corals. The guy sells them and grows them for research.

I asked him what lighting he was using.. expecting him to say some god awefully expensive lights.

He told me to buy this granted, the auction is done, but search the same thing... its very affordable and very powerful.

I did not have room to hang it from above, so I opted to get THIS instead. It works pretty awesome. everything is growing nicely, but if I were to do it again, maybe a more powerful one.


also, having bought about 5 different circulation pumps for my 20g. some loud, some suck, some are huge.. don't waste your time, just go for this I found it to be the best.. super quiet and magnetic

It sounds like your talking about the budget glass vacuum distillation units found on ebay/amazon. If so, these may work for your needs but more info is needed. If you intend to distill/recover the ethanol and make a concentrate like shatter or wax then a budget glass distillation kit like this may be what your looking for. It would also need a heating mantle of the appropriate size($60-120), a small water pump like this, some krytox ptfe glass joint grease(gpl 205 works well), and a vacuum pump. Something like this for $50 would work but would require an oil change nearly every other run due to ethanol contamination, a ethanol compatible diaphram pump would be preferable but much more costly. A used savant gp-110 is what i use and can be found on ebay for about $150(do not re-use ethanol that passes through a used pump). For long runs I add a small desktop fan in front of it to keep it cool.

Vacuum distillation is necessary for Shatter/Wax consistancy because without the vacuum, open air distillation will decarb the THC-A to THC and leave you with a sappy product. If you intend to make THC distillate, a shortpath setup will allow you to just distill the ethanol fraction and make distillate from your remaining product. It will also require pretty much the same accessories as the vacuum reflux distllation kit I listed. The only big difference from a short path vs reflux kit (which I prefer for ethanol recovery) is the added reflux portion which will help you maintain your ethanol's proof a bit better. Also the vacuum pump for a distillate shortpath setup needs to pull a lower vacuum rating than either of the pumps I mentioned, and will typically be one of the priciest components in this setup.

This is the tank I have so as you can see the filtration is built in. I added two of the cheapest powerheads I could find on amazon and directed them at the walls or each other to randomize the flow a bit. I can't link the light I use as it's from a site that is apparently banned on this subreddit so this comment will be hidden. The one thing that I wish I knew when I started isn't so much with the equipment or conversion itself, but moreso where to place my corals and how to arrange my rockwork. Similar to planning out a planted scape with the right plants in the right places for how they grow, it's good to know the growth pattern and method for your corals. I currently have GSP that is taking over a very good portion of my tank and is in the process of jumping from one rock to another to expand even further. I also placed some zoas directly underneath a plating monti which means in some time the zoas will be completely shaded and will need to be moved. thing like that which I didn't think of as issues are the main ones that Ive dealt with in terms of "growing pains" As for fish, I have 2 clowns and 2 goby (different types so they don't fight). Then I just kinda went with what I found interesting. I have an urchin, a porcelain crab, a conch and tons of snails and hermits for clean up crew. I had an emerald crab which I really liked to watch, however, I think he was picking on my fish when they slept as I found my goby with a torn/red fin so I moved him to the filter compartment for now until I either get a larger tank or rehome him.

This is pretty much what I do. I bought this pump from Amazon. My wort chiller came with a hookup for a normal garden hose. I bought the cheapest garden hose I could find at Lowes as well. Since the two size attachments that came with the pump did not exactly fit the width of the garden hose after I had cut into it, I had to use scissors to cut about an inch of the inner rubber core out, while leaving the outer green section intact. This fit pretty securely over one of the included pump attachments. Then I used a stainless steel adjustable clamp to make sure they stayed together.

This setup works pretty well for me. I do 5.5 gal batches BIAB style. I freeze tupperware containers of water to make big ice cubes, then fill a cooler with water, the big ice cubes, and put the pump in. To start off with, I hook directly into my garden hose and let that go for 10-15 minutes, because otherwise the super hot wort/water at the beginning melts through the ice quickly. I prefer to let it cool down some before I disconnect from the hose and connect to the pump.

And just as a heads up, double check the tightness of the connections between the copper wort chiller and its plastic tubing. My clamps were not tight enough and I had some foreign water spray into my wort. I just brought it back to a boil and all was well.

OMG excellent tips. Thank you so much. I really feel a lot more comfortable about my ability for success on this project with your tips. I do have a few questions.

1. I ordered two pumps (1 as theoretical back up arriving from China sometime between August 17 and Sept 2). Both seem comparable from a L/Hr standpoint they used but presumably too weak per your rec. Since you are speaking from experience I may return the solar powered one since I realize a battery will be necessary and get the one you suggested..and it will be too weak.
   http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-powered-fountain-pump-66093.html and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWJIC0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Have you used the one you recommended in a similar cooler? Or just did a quick Amazon search? Do you think the 170GPH would be the best option? Or would the 60GPH or 140GPH be sufficient?
   
   

2. Thanks for confirming.
   
   
3. Makes sense. Did you use any specific sealer on the section above the fan?
   
   
4. Makes sense.
   
   Originally I was thinking of calculating out the amps of fan/pump and hoping it lasts for the week. Then recharging with the battery with my car if there was a miscalculation. What are your thoughts on this? Think i should just get a panel to top it off on a regular basis?
   Any recommendations on a panel or battery? I've read quite a few posts/blogs with recommendations but curious about what you think.

If you want to reduce the flow I recommend buying this pump:
https://www.amazon.ca/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO

With this pump you can reduce the flow to whatever you want, and it works pretty well too, doesnt take up any space and is actually smaller than the one you get with the aquarium. The tube fits perfectly and connects perfectly to the pump the only issue is that it hangs slightly because the tubing isnt long enough.


Using sponges to reduce the flow can create more bacteria surfaces which is good but... It takes up a bunch of space and is a pain to deal with if it ever floats off. You also cant adjust the flow perfectly like you can with the pump.

There are people who recommend poking holes in the hose, in my opinion this is the worst thing you can do. It messes with the circulation and ruins the hose, you'll end up having to pay for a new hose if you ever get new fish that like the flow. So in my opinion getting a cheap pump like this is way better than using sponges or poking holes.

I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.

Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.

I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.

Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.

You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.

I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.


So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.

So awesome, I'd be keen on a project like this... Would be a nice opportunity for me to learn some arduino coding.
What board are you using? what pump for the PB? is it like a small peristaltic pump kinda thing?

Make sure they're not getting too much sugar for their own good.

The cheapest and easiest way you can do it is probably by not using an arduino (especially if you value your time!). If you are in it for the fun of the build, go for it, but I have a recommendation if you just want to water your plants.



I grew indoor plants for several years at medium scale (60 plants, 20,000 watts), and now grow commercially for the recreational market in OR.



Start with a short cycle timer like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA



and a pond pump like this (get whatever size you need, generally 100gph per 5 gal of medium/soil is more than enough for very thirsty plants - so this one would water 5-6 large plants in 5 gallon pots):


https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/



Then use a Rubbermaid Brute (commercial) trash can as a reservoir (they come in sizes from 10gal-50gal depending on your needs). They are a bit more expensive, but cheaper than flooding your house or apartment:


I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Recycler-Rollout-Hinged/dp/B0007845JC/


and these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG263256GRAY-Plastic-32-gallon/dp/B005KDAQ3I/



You can likely find the trash cans cheaper at a big-box hardware store. they are generally $1/gallon.



let me know if you have any questions and id be happy to help!

Album here, sorry for the crappy phone pics.

This was my first time using this setup as well as my first time using this pump, but I think it worked pretty well. The flow rate was definitely good enough for my needs, but it took a while to cool because I ran out of ice pretty quickly. Link to it here.

Awesome tank! I've been thinking about getting a dwarf puffer or 3 but my little 7 gallon isn't big enough. Maybe once I get a larger tank.

If you can, get an automatic doser for the ferts. It's saved me so much time and I'm sure the plants like the consistency. I bought this pump a while back and it's been working great.

I finally got my co2 dialed in so that it's a nice green when the lights fully kick on and slightly yellow when the lights go off. Just working on fine-tuning lights/ferts to get rid of some green hair, green spot and black beard algae. Unfortunately, I didn't have working co2 for a while which gave a big window for the algae to start taking over.

I can give you more details/pics when I get home tonight, but I followed his walkthrough with 3", 2", and 3/4" pvc. I have a pretty strong power head but I'm pretty confident these pipe sizes will keep up. Ha. Hopefully.

edit: So this Rio Plus 1700 is the beastly pump I bought because turtles are nasty critters. When I first hooked everything up though, I was filling my first bucket with the rocks (via the PVC overflow siphon) faster than it could drain into the second bucket where it could be pumped back to the tank. That cracked me up. I thought I would have the opposite problem. Now that that's sorted, I've run it for a while watching it and everything has kept up. I'm resealing a few spots now and then it will go in my established tank to get it running for good.

I've found a few things that could do the trick. I still feel like something smaller would be more ideal, but a filter would now be preferred.

I'm tempted to buy one of each and see the performance differences. I will let you guys know what I get. I literally have to wait for my wife to give me my allowance on Friday, ha!

Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 Circulation Pump with Magnet Mount, 180 GPH

Penn Plax Cascade 170 Internal Filter for Aquariums

Govine Aquariums Underwater Mini Filter 3-Gallon

Aquarium Internal Filter For Fish Tank Multi-Function Submersible 3/8/16W NEW

Mini Aquarium Power Filter Waterfall Water Pump Fish Tank Hang On Slim Filter

I'm also looking into building my own. Alibaba (or a similar store) has some tiny motors that I could attach outside and then I could try to figure out a magnetic solution. A 3D printer setup would be more ideal for something like that and I don't have one. I'm still pondering this idea, I don't want to end up over my head.

I have lots of stupid little things that make my time nicer. One of the things that I learned that helps quite a bit is methods for managing your cooler.

• have a decent, well insulated cooler and keep it in the shade.
  
• have a couple of lidded containers that are wide and flat that can float on top of the ice and water in your cooler. Put your leftovers and open packages in these.
  
• have everything else in the cooler be in completely water tight containers that can be fully immersed in water (ie vacuum sealed or with water tight lids). Let the melt water completely cover everything that isn't floating on top.
  
  In this manner there are no warm spots and you are keeping things colder than you would a normal refrigerator (ie right at the edge of being able to freeze but not quite) and food lasts longer (milk and meat stay fresh for two weeks or more with no problems if kept like this).
  
  When adding ice, drain only enough water that you can add your ice. Since you've taken the effort to keep everything well sealed this water is clean and can be used for showering, evap cooling, misting, etc.
  
  
  To make your life easier, when transferring water, don't try to use the cooler's drain. Use a small fountain pump (and tubing). Depending on your electric systems at your camp, you can get 5V fountain pumps that plug into a USB port, 12V pumps that will run off of 12V battery systems or 120V pumps that will run off a generator. This in and of itself was a huge deal for me and saved me from making muddy messes in my camp.

You'll need a circulation pump as well, you have to have good water flow through your LR - it's your biological filtration. A 425 gph Koralia Nano would be sufficient. Or you could go cheaper I have two 800 gph circulation pumps off eBay and they're solid. Probably saved $50 going with them, and it's just hard to justify the money on something so simple. Even if these br

There's a lot of fish you can go with. Browse through this and this. Just no damsels - I don't know why they recommend damsels as a beginner fish. They're hardy and all, and I guess if you were just going to have 1 fish they can be nice.

I like gobys, firefish, and basslets for that size tank. I just added a royal gramma basslet to my 72 FOWLR - here's a pic, it would do okay in a 29g. Avoid dwarf angels, they're finnicky, a lot of blennies don't do well in a tank that isn't mature (dragonetts). Cardinalfish are okay.

Shooting for around 20gal but dont mind a little less or a little more.

Going to be using a pump to water with. Any suggestions at to what water pump would be good to use for currebtly hand watering but potentially upgrading to a drip feed? Would be feeding up to 4 plants.

I saw this pump and thought it looked like a good deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017R708QO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-5SKBbTYZNQ8E

Just not sure if 550gph is too much or really even what I should look for.

I don’t think those exist, I’ve had a variety of air pumps and none of them were completely silent. I’ve padded them with towels and foam to lessen the noise but the good news is that if it’s for an air stone, you don’t really need one. Water circulation and breaking the surface of the water increases oxygen levels too so if you bought a water circulator and aim it at the surface of the water then you’d be good.

I have this one. It works great and it’s silent

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S70ZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521596801&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+water+circulator&dpPl=1&dpID=41RazIHcICL&ref=plSrch

If the air pump is for your filter then change the type of filter that you’re using. External or internal canisters are silent.

That was there when I bought the tank, I just never took it off. I have another thermometer on a suction cup mixed in with all the other equipment. I used live sand and rock to get it cycled. 6 inches of water, sand, rest of the water, rock. Cleanup crew went in after 2 weeks, fish went in a week later. It has a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 200 for the filter, nothing fancy. The powerhead was a pretty cool find. Here it is Works pretty good on only 3-4w of power. Well see how well it holds up.

Lovey little tank!

I have a hydro pico evolution in my fluval evo 13 gal nano reef, which works pretty well in terms of flow. Hydor also makes a little device which attaches and rotates the flow across the tank like a mini wave maker. I love both except for the clogs that happen if I let any algae grow in the tank.

Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 Circulation Pump with Magnet Mount, 180 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UK5CTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C3zPBb34ATQYP

Hydor Flo Rotating Water Deflector Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4zPBbK4AQAH8

That's pretty much the definition of a well pump. About $100 bucks for the cheapest one, which should serve you fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Happybuy-Submersible-0-5HP-Stainless-Industrial/dp/B07JV8B3V2/

It's literally made to be dropped down a well and operate while completely submerged. That tank won't even come close to straining the pump. Even the cheap ones can lift 150 feet.

Heck, if you don't really need pressure or a fast flow, you could even just use a submersible fountain pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/

That one is $20 and will lift 7 feet, which looks like it might even be enough for your needs.

Edit: You could also get a "transfer pump" for about $50

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Transfer-Utility-Impeller-Gasket/dp/B07R7V1HJW/

It has the advantage that you can actually install it inside the cabin. The disadvantage is that it needs to be primed (filled with water) before it works, and if the hose between the transfer pump and the water source gets air in it, you need to prime it again. So you'll need to install a one-way valve after the pump to ensure water can't drain out. It's also limited to a rise of a maximum of about 33 feet, possibly less depending on the strength of the pump. That's the limit for raising water by pulling it from the top (rather than pushing from the bottom, like submersible pumps do). But, again, that doesn't look like it will be much of a limitation for this specific application.

Yeah I do have it pointed to the top, but it seems a bit underpowered. What would you recommend? I was looking at this Also a local guy gave me a bottle of start smart saltwater aquarium instant cycler... Do you recommend that or should I just wait it out.

To start with, a canister and a sump together are overkill for a tank that size. Overkill isn't really a bad thing when it comes to filtration.

Your diagram makes sense, and your plan seems fine. If you haven't yet, check out this post about sumps in general, but it seems to me like you have the concepts in hand.

I'm guessing that you mean surface skimmer/overflow in your diagram where you have "skimmer/intake" listed. Freshwater does not need protein skimmers, they don't work in any way as effectively as in saltwater.

You don't need to hook the return (what you call outflow) to another powerhead, you can just use a U-pipe to flow into the tank.

What you'll want instead of another powerhead, if you find you want more flow, is a circulation pump or two to move your water around.

Let me know if I misunderstood you or if you have any more questions

Not op, however I use the Jebao dosing pump.

So far it's been running for almost 2 months reliably dosing ferts and metricide every day.

The calibration was a huge pain in the ass and it is over by exactly 1ml no matter what I do (I must have calibrated it over 100 times) , but it is easy to overcome that by just setting it one ml lower then you need.

Overall for the price, without knowing the longevity of the item I fully recommend it. It makes dosing a breeze and it helps to create a stable and consistent growing environment.

Not to mention if you were to ever need to leave the tank to take a trip or you just can't do anything for a period of time it will continue to dose your tank.

Sounds like you have a liebig condenser. Shotgun condensers have multiple internal tubes, to shorten the condenser length while keeping more surface area.

In my experience (I've used all 3), the liebig sounds like the best option... mostly because you already have it, but also because my liebigs work better than a worm with a flakestand.

Get a quieter (aquarium) pump and keep the water flowing constantly. When your condenser heats up and cools down repeatedly you will upset the balance of the system and run less efficiently. Your outer tube on the liebig is oversized, so you'll only need very little cooling water flow.

Something like this should be plenty...

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2H6rxbN3FN0AV

I got this one. It's pretty darn slow it's done the job when I've left town for 10 days or so. I can't remember exactly but I think it took like 4 minutes for 3/4 of a gallon. Keep in mind that if you don't wanna water every day you'll need one of those digital outlet timers. I got one from home depot for like $10 that you can program for and day of the week. I usually do Monday and Thursday or something like that

Aquarium circulaters, immersion water heaters, some sort of plastic cover (limit evaporation), and a temperature probe to monitor water temp.

Sounds like a good weekend project, definitely /r/redneckengineering worthy

Do you have a lfs you can get rock from? That will most likely be the cheapest option as you can get a small amount of live rock, and the rest dead rock, much cheaper but longer cycle and setup.

I buy saltwater from my lfs as well as my tank is pretty small atm, so I just get 10 gallons every few weeks.

But some rock and water, that’s all you really need right now, You could use a powerhead to get some flow down below is a nice one on amazon.

Hydor Koralia Nano 565 Circulation Pump for Aquariums, 565 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P5P8V0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-NATDbXXWMQYW

Just picked up This one

Thanks for the help though! I have amazon prime so I tend to go for the free 2 day shipping

I would automate:

• water changes
  
• water tests
  
• chemical dosing (e.g. flourish excel, prime during water changes, flourish potassium etc etc).
  
  By having a cleanup crew (amano shrimp, nerite snails, siamese algae eaters) in my 75 I've managed to automate algae management and cleanliness.
  
  I've been thinking about the last one ... there are pumps you can buy on Amazon that do that like the Jebao Pump, and even considering DIY solutions like this with a Raspberry Pi.

Here's the album with descriptions.

Parts list:

1. Submersible aquarium pump. This way, I'm using electricity to pump water upwards, and don't need to elevate my water tank like in a Blumats system.
   
2. Pipe fitting to attach a manifold to the pump. I got one at my local hardware store, but I think this is the same thing.
   
3. 3/8" tubing to connect the pump to the manifold.
   
4. A kit with a bunch of 1/4" tubing to actually deliver water to the plants.. You could probably do it cheaper if you knew exactly which components you needed to buy, but I didn't so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
   
5. Manifold.This takes the water that comes from my pump and splits it into up to 8 1/4" lines to deliver to plants.
   
6. 5-gallon bucket. I already had one for vacuuming up my water, but you can get one for like 5 bucks at Home Depot.
   
   Total cost: ~$60. Not having to pH, add nutes, add calmag, etc. individually to like 10 individual cans of water: priceless!
   

I mean something like [this](SongJoy Wave Maker Circulation Pump 3170GPH Suction Cup Base Powerhead for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J19M7WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hTNAzbGVTC1MR), but less powerful. Maybe [this](KEDSUM 550GPH Submersible Water Pump for Indoor Pond Aquarium, Fish Tank Powerhead for Water Fountain Hydroponic, 40W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017R708QO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nUNAzbPFN802J) is better? Or a smaller powerhead and a smaller wave maker?

Welcome to a hobby that's as addictive as crack and sometimes more expensive.

1. That's not a skimmer, that's a filter. Skimmers work by producing tiny bubbles of air which trap organic matter in the water tension of the bubble and carry it away. People refer to those as HOB filters (Hang On Back). What you might want to look into is a HOB protein skimmer like this one: http://www.marineandreef.com/CPR_Bak_Pak_2_Bio_Cyclone_Bak_Pak_Skimmer_Reef_p/RCPR02072.htm?gclid=CP_2y73u-7gCFSU6QgodZmcADg
   
   
2. If you decide to go with a filter and not a skimmer, I'd look into ones that do surface skimming like this one:http://www.amazon.com/AquaTop-Hang-On-Filter-Surface-Skimmer/dp/B005DCCT04/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376446396&sr=1-5&keywords=hob+skimmer
   The reason you want "surface skimming" is because proteins tend to build up into a film on the surface of the water. This film reduces oxygen exchange and can be harmful to small fish.
   
   
3. That powerhead is WAY to large for a 10g. The rule of thumb for saltwater tanks is 20 times more flow than volume. So for a 10g tank, I'd get a 240GPH power head. I'm a huge fan of the Korali Nano: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376446665&sr=1-1&keywords=koralia+nano
   
   
4. The more filtration the better. I don't think I've ever seen any setup that has "too much" filtration. I know that technically it is possible, I just have never seen one. Live rock and Cheato are both types of biological filtration, while floss is physical. The worst thing that can happen if you have too much filtration is you'll have to do water changes less frequently.
   
   Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
   
   EDIT: removed bad advice.

You might want to pick one of these up! It can really help with circulation. I love mine!

You can try this https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1468459442&sr=1-8


Try to angle everything so it moves everything in as close to a circle as possible. It should help.


Also, why the root thing?

Remember, turtles aren't really playing. They can turn on each other very quickly, esp being that cramped up. Try to find a tank on kijiji or craigslist. If you get a 90gal or bigger, you don't need 2 tanks. You only need 2 basking spots. Use egg crate found at a Home Depot type of store. its found in the lighting section. Cut it too big and slowly chip away at it until you can force it between the glass. It allows water flow so you only have the 1 tank to manage.


When buying used, don't pay more then $1 a gallon or not much more. Thats all its worth at most. If you find a cheap old tank, make sure to reseal it (its soooooooooooooooooo easy!!!!!). Before the rescue I bought a 90gal+stand for $90. Resealed it and that sucker lasted me for years :)

Unless you are using it on an air driven skimmer, you don't need that air pump. Or that bubble bar. Take them back and get your money back. They won't do hardly anything for oxygenation AND will give you "salt creep" everywhere from the bubbles popping and causing tiny sprays of saltwater. You will be much better off getting a good powerhead to increase circulation in the tank (VERY important for filtration....speaking of which, are you using live rock for filtration?)

While I haven't use this yet (still have to build my new shrimp tank), I purchased this and appearance-wise it seems to match the Spec V pumps as I used to have a few of those tanks in the past. This may be a cheap replacement to keep on hand in the event you can't clean out the Spec V pump or it finally quits on you.

Good luck!

I recently started a 10g after doing a crapload of research. This is what I ended up with:

• Eheim Jager 50w heater
  
• Hydor Koralia Nano 425 powerhead
  
• PAR-38 LED bulb (dimmable) 18k color temp
  
• AquaClear 20 filter
  
• 12 lbs live rock
  
  A lot of folks I talked to said the live rock and water changes would provide sufficient filtration, but I do enjoy the extra water clarity from having carbon and purigen in the filter.

This is the pump, and yeah just put a "T" to send the water up both sides. I would recommend it. It works great.

I may actually improve on the design a bit and add a small circulating water pump like this, though I may have to think about this design a bit since I'm not sure that the pump will like the warmer water it would be dealing with..

I hate airstones with an ever loving passion and I never use them in any of my tanks. As long as the filter provides some surface agitation you are fine without them.


If you want better circulation get a pump like this

Yes water movement is key. I just set mine up on saturday. I bought a [Hydor}(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036S70ZG/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details) just the other day and it should be here today. I bought one of the 500 models from petsmart, and that thing just blew all the sand EVERYWHERE and made a huge mess, and it was ginormous.

Good luck, I too cant wait to start stocking

I bought this guy and it has served me well enough with 5 gallon sanke and corny kegs. I do the upside down keg on a bucket method with PBW, then hot water, then depending on if I'm filling at the time I also hit it with starsan. I'm not sure if it would be sufficient for a half barrel sanke but i bet if you restricted the flow in your cleaning wand and just spun it around more often it would be fine. Works well to clean lines as well. Just have to buy a bit of pipe, quick disconnects, and a quick carb cap (if you use ball locks).

Thanks! I'm using [one of these DC timers] (http://www.altronics.com.au/p/s0049-8-program-12v-dc-alternate-digital-timer/) temporarily, with a plan to replace it with a raspberry PI and a python program to control the pump and a light if I add one.

And this is the little magnetic submersible pump I used.

I left the original water dispenser spigot in place to make water cycling easier.

Used sump pump off kijiji can be found for $25 or less in here in Canada.

I've used this one as well. Looks to be a pretty good price for you Americans right now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017R709UE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499629892&sr=8-1&keywords=770+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=41A1D3dhuYL&ref=plSrch

I intend to cover it with more of the black walnut that's used above, but in a Japanese shoji lamp-style, so there will be a lamp at the bottom.

Basics of the setup:

• Grow area: 3" PVC pipes with 2" net cups spaced every few inches. The pipes have water running to each row and can be detached separately for cleaning.
  
• Overflow gutter: 4" PVC pipes cut lengthwise hold the 3" PVC pipes so that in the event of an overflow, the water goes into these gutters.
  
• Overflow + pipe routing: The overflow gutters are part of a frame that contains the supply lines (going up on the left) and the drainage lines (going down the right). Any overflow will go into the frame and down into the reservoir.
  
• Reservoir: 4" PVC pipes with enough capacity to hold 2x the water capacity of the 3" pipes up above. Not visible in the picture is a ball valve to drain the system for refilling. You can kinda see it in the bottom right of this IMAGE. I mounted it to the wall with heavy-duty brackets.
  
• Lights: These and these are mounted on the underside of the wooden covers.
  
• Pump: This
  
  The grow area is physically separate from the reservoir so I can detach and clean it. Some have critiqued the design for not being true NFT, saying that water remains in the system; and also because the channels are not square. So there are surely design improvements that can be made.
  
  The wood is black walnut that I coated in teak oil; and are slid onto brackets I made so that (in case of leakage) I can pull them right off without unscrewing anything.

Well that's great to hear it didn't affect pH in anyway. As far as the system goes, I've already went through and built the setup in the video. I'm making a few modifications to link together another tote to the current one. I'll likely use the same pump for both systems.

Here is the pump on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=sxin_2_osp105-95984b9e_cov

Jebao Programmable Auto Dosing Pump DP-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KKCILE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KPuczb1SCWQWQ

I don't have one of those but buying dosing pumps for my reef tanks was one of the best investments.

do whatever can fit in your stand. You'd need a bit more than $130 for the whole setup (tank $40, pump $55, plumbing + acrylic + silicon $50, overflow box $70) Just cut the acrylic to the right sizes and silicon them in place! Easy. This way you don't need to re-spend all this money down the line and it keeps your tank looking pretty without all the hang-ons.

apartment brewer checking in! A friend of mine turned me on to the method she uses for her immersion chiller (and I've seen around the internet a bunch) and it works great. 20+ft of copper coil, two vinyl tubes to attach, a submersible pump (kinda like this) and a bucket. attach one vinyl tube to pump and coil, other end goes from coil to sink. Fill a bucket, put pump in bucket and go to town. After 5 or so minutes the water coming out of the tube into the sink has cooled to where you can put it back in the bucket (adding a few frozen water bottles to the bucket) and reuse the water.

no need for garden hose or crazy business!

You can pick up something like this from hardware store of your choice

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-84219910-Single-Stage-Whole-House-Water-Filtration-System/1201339

Then hop over to amazon and grab a pond pump.

https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B017R708QO/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=pond+pump&qid=1567805162&s=gateway&sr=8-28

From there all you gotta do is hook it up. I cannot say how well the under 400 GPH pumps work since mine is 550.

Quick edit: I did a quick search, and I found this video and it seems pretty informative. The only thing I'd change to this is to place everything in a 2 or 5 gallon bucket from the hardware store too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-eB91tg3es

That's the one, thanks homie! I used this pump though since its what I had on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018726TLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K5fbAb144G7HT

Replying to both of you here - I'm about 5 days planted, so I can't tell yet where any stagnant areas are. I'll keep an eye out - I do have my pH meter and drop checker on the far right front and it's reading perfectly. I know I have current because of some of the debris that's floated up and is moving around. I'll wait to decide if I need one. I'm going to end up with a jungle, so a current will be pretty much required. I'm thinking about this one because it's small.

You can buy a small submersible pump or filter (less than 100 gph) on amazon for less than $10.

something like this or this sunsun one is interesting

LIST POST:

 |/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs

--|:--|:--|:--|:--
 |318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
 |Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
 |2 Free Fem Seeds|0| | 
 |pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|

You will need a pid temperature controller, water pump, and heating unit, as well as some basic things (a bit of sheathed wire, things to cut and strip it, screwdriver, electrical tape) to wire everything up. The controller and heater can be substituted for cheaper components. You should also get a resistance thermometer (search on ebay, it's like $1) to get higher accuracy than a thermocouple.

pump

controller

heater



I hope this will help.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHHP71C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R709UE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R62NCKB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Add some plumbing and I can scale it to 3-4 fermenters pretty easily.

Hmm, quite the predicament. Here is a solution that might work for you (this is for the goldfish)- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones

Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS

Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW

Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV

Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90

Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK

SUN 2 Piece JVP Series Submersible Circulation Power Head Pump, 530 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YYIHGXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gXRSAbNNQ54G8

I use two of these in my 29g tank on opposite sides. Work great. One is angled towards the top and the other to the middle section where my coral are to get flow.

Pretty slick! One idea to simplify the battery refiller is to run your pump off another relay connected to the water level detector. Whether that's a float switch, moisture sensor, or optical sensor, it would turn on the pump via the relay, then shut it off once it's satisfied. No microprocessor needed.

The pump can be a small chemical doser to reduce the chances of overfilling.

Something small like this should work.
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-JVP-110-528-GPH-Wavemaker-Pumps/dp/B00CFW82PG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427825158&sr=1-2&keywords=small+powerhead
Although my only concern is that if there is a powerhead in the tank, I don't think a Betta would agree with it. Bettas are usually don't like much if not any current. Although if you do keep up with your maintenance and water changes I'm sure the tank won't even need a powerhead.

Yeah maybe! I have a small 10 gallon tank right now, with the hipargero lights and this fan that I will be installing today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036S4YZ0?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image.

I also have a GSP in there that is flourishing. I'm still figuring out the lighting settings and everything but I moved the coral to the farthest edge that I could. Maybe the water pump will help with algae settling on the coral.

I found heating things up can be done relatively cheaply, but cooling down can be more expensive. For heating above ambient I have used an Ice Cube cooler with an aquarium heater. You can get by using the temperature controller on the heater, but eventually you'll want to invest in a proper thermostat like the Inkbird. Put the carboy in the cooler, put in water and set the heater. As long as ambient temperature is lower than your target temperature this will keep it nice and steady. The additional water will be enough thermal mass to prevent any rapid temperature changes. I also eventually bought a cheap aquarium pump to keep the water circulating so there aren't hot spots.

I had bought a bubbler from Petco for 15 bucks to circulate water. It was a tight fit but my steaks turned out great. I also found a bubbler on amazon for 8 bucks which is a lot more compact than the petco one. Ill be making steaks for father's day and will probably use the above set up with this bubbler. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

True. And in total nerd fashion, I dropped one of these in the bath too. Not sure it made any real difference, but it made me feel like I had a "real" immersion circulatior. ;)

Pump is a cheap, dc submersible water cooling pump similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JWJIC0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Se6KAb4CR4W6H

And yep, STC1000 with sensor in thermowell switching the pump on and off, but I’ve also used an inkbird and it worked fine as well.

I like this little Hydor powerhead. It has a magnetic mount and is easy to adjust the flow rate on.

I'd like to put a small pump like this one into a standard small plastic basin like that.
The basin will be filled by rain water.
When there is enough water in the basin, I'd like the pump to start and transfer the water in a tank.
I didn't find so far any cheap way of controlling the pump. And any pump with the sensor included is way too big and too expensive.
Would you have any suggestion?

I use something similar with great success.

Use this pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHC8UX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

along with an old 5 gallong igloo cooler like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Igloo-5-Gallon-Plastic-Beverage-Cooler/999949202

​

I pre-chill around 5 gallons of water the night before in my fermentation chamber freezer down to as cold as i can get it, so that the water is ice cold.

When it comes time to chill the wort, i run the ice cold water first but rather than re-circulating right away i dump the initial really hot water out into another bucket until i have about a gallon to a gallon and a half left in the igloo cooler.

i then add start recirculating the warm water into the cooler and add a bag of ice.

Gets me down to ale pitch temperatures within 15 mins and i only use 5 gallons of water plus a bag of ice to chill around 5.5-6 gallons of wort. If brewing a lager i need to use 2 bags of ice to get down to about 50F.

You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside


Search for water solenoid example
Compatible diameter tube for above example
and any relay board example.

Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead

You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case 12V water pump example--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptors


And don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example

This is the type of setup I want. My current grow is sorta getting underway already so I probably can't rig this up for this time around, but I'll tinker with something like this for next time.

Is a pump like this what I need?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451580191&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=uniclife+80+gph+submersible+pump&th=0

This is the one I have. It works great. Got me through about 30 gallons so far. Sorry for the poor formatting. I'm on mobile and forgot how to make it look all nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1523813315&sr=8-7&keywords=submersible+pump

&

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Brass-Quick-Disconnect-Garden-Hose-Adapter-Set/3111057

Something like this with quick disconnect fittings installed on the input and output of your immersion chiller or plate. Blue hawk makes great quick disconnect fittings that will last a good while. I will quick disconnect ground water to ground temp then switch to the submersible in ice water for the drop to pitch temp from ground.

Here is a picture of my setup. Ground water is hooked up in the photo but it should give you a visual of what I am doing.

https://imgur.com/a/DFuGY

How to vacuum/clean the gravel of a heavily planted tank, like a carpet or really thick bush? I was thinking of using a circulation pump to kick up any debris into the water column. Was curious if anyone here had any input.

You could get something like this, a length of 1/2" ID tubing, and a hose clamp. And maybe a ball valve as well.

I do not have one, I am thinking of making my own with a rpi as a fun project. I have heard decent things about the JEBAO ones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egzKNDi4y14 I think they are on the cheaper side but good quality. On Amazon.com

I think they are mainly used in salt water tanks, but no reason why they cannot be used with plant ferts.

i did a lot of research before hand, cause i wanted a fish. so i need a 80 gal/hr filter, some gravel, i posted here because the directions for cycling made no sense to me, i think you are supposed to change like 25% of the water each day? and 19 gallon tank seems a little weird, doesnt it?

will this work?

Hydor koralia nano 240gph. In the 10g I had it in it was a little strong, but in the 29g it's a perfect. I don't think it would have a problem in your tank though

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S4YZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503166568&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+nano

doesn't need to be anything fancy. something like this should work fine.

Powerhead Questions:

I have a high tech 40G (36in long). I have some hair algae starting to grow and I think that I don't have a consistent mixture of CO2 with the current flow.

What is a good sized powerhead for a tank this size? I've been look at this one: LINK

One of these, one of these, and one of these. Don't have any pictures, but its a pretty simple set up. You set the temp you want it at, set the window to .1 or .2 degrees. Don't plug the heater into the controller's outlet unless its underwater, otherwise you blow the fuse. Probably a good idea to start with hot tap water and add some boiling water from the kettle. The heater will keep the water up to temp, no problem, but it can take a while to raise the temp from room temp. I always make sure nothing is going to touch the heater in the water. I'm not sure, but it could probably melt a bag. I have a length of high-themp CPVC pipe that I put over the pot or cambro, and use binder clips to suspend the heater and sensor.

Try one of these. Pretty cheap and helped me out a ton. This worked on my 75g.

Mostly the day hours, at night it should be breezy enough : thanks btw!The pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWJIC0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this I dose ei ish and never have to worry

you want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499289504&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+pump

I use this little guy for my ATO.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWJIC0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice and cheap plus low draw, should work well for your need.

Wired this pump to this controller as per the wiring diagram it came with. Very straight forward.




https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01IBK9I12/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498065211&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=inkbird&dpPl=1&dpID=414FQKzu0QL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00EWENKXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498065289&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Aquarium+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2Bn%2BaJtwfL&ref=plSrch

I have a power head that came with a co2 system, it is labeled Red Sea turbo D-800, it is small and adjustable. Something like this might work https://www.amazon.com/Uniclife-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B00ZW6OHHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485119555&sr=8-1&keywords=small+adjustable+powerhead

Something like this would probably work.

https://smile.amazon.com/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535763850&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=small+water+pump+for+fountain+cordless

I have a 30 gallon mixing jug in my closet which is in my kitchen. I would suggest looking for closets/end of hallways/corners where you can keep a mixing station that's out of sight. I just use a pump to get me about 5m across the kitchen. You'll need a more powerful pump to get you your 15m but that'll take some experimentation. To take water out I just use a Python and there are extensions available.

I put powerheads in my tank. Only downside is plants love to get stuck in them.

I also have an immersion chiller with connections for a garden hose. I have since removed the garden hose connection and hook it up to a submersible pump in a cooler of ice and water. For me, it works considerably faster than having it hooked up to the hose. That could be due to warmer ground water temps where I live though.

Yeah that was my first thought but I'd rather conserve space if possible, [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Ultra-quiet-DC12V-Brushless-Submersible/dp/B00JWJIC0K/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YSKNJPEGXGP15Q1N1XJM) is the pump I am using and here is the light. Do you have a converter in mind I could look into?

https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-JVP-110-528-GPH-Wavemaker-Pumps/dp/B00CFW82PG
Its outflow is more of a cone shape than a direct stream. Works well in my slightly bigger 3ft

Get an auto programmable dosing pump.
Its 67 dollars for 4 pumps on amazon. I think you can program it to do auto water topoff too.
Get an auto feeder and your set. If you want you can install a webcam and watch your aquarium on your phone.

Source:

http://www.amazon.com/Jebao-Programmable-Auto-Dosing-DP-4/dp/B014KKCILE

Youtube video about it:

https://youtu.be/3EaL6cqBU6g

Lots of good advice in this thread. If I could add my 2 cents. I will occasionally make a liquid food mix with some shrimp powder and do a direct feeding with a feeding tube. In my 20G tank I've got a circulation pump to keep the flow rate up for it, but that might be a bit much in your 10G.

I think this is the link you are looking for ;)
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=10Q44DM2NSTGH8JADMNP

You're not relying on it for filtration and the waterfall won't be more than a few inches higher than the pump so a super cheap one (like this or this) would work just fine.

I've got this powerhead on it presently which I'm not a huge fan of. The flow is adjustable, but the angle is not.

I had this powerhead on it which was much better in terms of adjusting the direction of the flow, but after a while it rattled incessantly and no amount of disassembling it/greasing the impeller/etc fixed it.

Whoops, looks like it was $8, not $6.


VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 4.9ft (1.5m) Power Cord


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CfhtxbP9RFST9



It is a little workhorse. I've clogged it up twice (once because I didn't think to cover the intake with foam in my pond, the second time because I had moved it to my cat fountain and my kid dumped dog food in the water) and both times I just unplugged it, rinsed it thoroughly under a cold faucet, and it ran fine.

Cool device. Here's an idea for a mod that would automate it. Find yourself an inexpensive PC Heat Exchanger, some tubing, an inexpensive DC Pump and a 12v STC-1000.

You could pump cold water (or colder glycol) from your kegerator through the heat exchanger and back. Couple of fans hooked to the STC-1000 (along with the pump) to regulate and control the temperature. If you pumped the glycol from a regular freezer, you could probably get the temperature inside the unit low enough for serving temperature.

I've never had a problem with the Hydor Koralia power heads over the years.

https://www.amazon.com/Homasy-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B01LHC8UX8

This would be FAR more than powerful enough, including head pressure, but its adjustable so you could turn it down.

I use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponics/dp/B017R709UE/

I like it due to its heavy weight. Keeps the pump from floating around and allows manipulation of thick tubing.

I have a smaller one of these that I use for a diy swamp cooler I made:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017R709UE/ref=twister_B017R7081E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You'll have to put it in something to prevent debris from getting to the pump intake though.

Hydor Koralia 240gph

Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Aquarium Circulation Pump, 240 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2ZuApJaW87wSU

Electronic dosing pumps have been in use in reef tanks for over a decade. I have one of these for ca, alk, nopox: https://www.amazon.com/Jebao-Programmable-Auto-Dosing-DP-4/dp/B014KKCILE

Hydor Koralia 240

Driven by a fountain pump

Homasy 400GPH Submersible Pump 25W Fountain Water Pump with 5.9ft Power Cord, 2 Nozzles for Aquarium, Fish Tank, Pond, Statuary, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LHC8UX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EeeIDbB39X0A8

Would an aquarium circulation pump work?

As for the temp, why not plug the fish tank heater into an STC 1000?

You don't NEED one, but I'd suggest this if you do plan to get one.

This is the pump I use, the outlet is threaded so you can get a 3/4" garden hose adapter for it.

https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1496847685&sr=1-1&keywords=kedsum+pump

so like one of these pumps

http://www.amazon.com/Rio-Plus-1700-Aqua-Pump/dp/B000LSVAI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1415118960&sr=1-1&keywords=rio+1700

Then hooked up to a larger hose or PVC that goes to the black holes?

I got this one: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item

I figure between this and the pump it should be enough.

VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ydEkyb7Z76REJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KKCILE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i-jbBbKZG3B2T

Is this the sort of product you're looking for?

I use one of these to pump the water out of a food-grade 5 gallon bucket where I let the water condition with Prime for a week before water changes.

I'm using this and this in a turkey roaster. Unless you really need the WiFi component, that controller seems a little high.

I personally have this one in my 5 gallon tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UK5CTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ohhhh sorry.
https://www.amazon.ca/KEDSUM-Submersible-Powerhead-Fountain-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1467160884&sr=8-12&keywords=water+pump

I made one using a tiny pump from amazon. Just spliced it and added the float switch. Ran it for a year with no issues.

VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M5A1BbD308WAX

Seriously. $9

Sprayer - $13.00 link to long go search

Water pump - 8.49 https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519928484&sr=8-4&keywords=water+pump

Collars - 25 for $7.00. ( that’s .28 a piece if you are wondering) they have them cheaper too...
https://www.amazon.com/25-PACK-RED-Sprayers-Machines/dp/B01I2A2LNS/ref=sr_1_12?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519928528&sr=1-12&keywords=Cloner+collars


5 gal bucket w/ lid $5.00

That’s 33.49 and you can build this exact setup with this shit. If you can scrounge a piece of rubber or hose to connect shit your done. ✌🏻👍🏼

This also does wonders and I just set it and forget it:

Jebao Programmable Auto Dosing Pump DP-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KKCILE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c-gFAb3C9H5Q3

I've used these pumps for a variety of uses. I have one working for over a year now with no issues. Can't beat the price:)

So, I ended up buying [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on amazon. Used it on Sunday brewing a saison. While it worked as I planned. It did not push enough water though and ended up taking about an hour to chill my 6 gals of wort. So I didn't save any time... yet. The one I purchases was 80 GPH, I see that OSU_CSM had a 200 GPH one. Do you think that is sufficient to go through 25' of a CFC? Should I look for a bigger one? I'm not ready to give up on the CFC yet!

What size of pump is needed? I'm thinking this might do the job. Will probably need to suck the air to start it but after that it might work.

I use five gallon buckets, and I bought a small water pump on Amazon, pumps the water in slowly disturbing nothing. I generally just let the hose pour water down the side of the glass.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENKXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504375762&sr=8-3&keywords=water+pump

I actually use a normal relatively short siphon to suck up debris from the tank. This all goes into a 5 gallon bucket. There is a small water pump inside the bucket that then pushes the water through the 75 foot hose into sink to drain.

if you're going to do herbs and what not then you're going to want to make a bell siphon. It's flat out black magic lol basically, the water will fill at the same rate but once the water level hits a point, all the water is sucked out. you need that because herbs can't just have their roots sitting in water 24/7 unlike lettuce. I think this is a great starter video for the general idea of how things work. The hard part about tank aquaponics is that you really don't want a lot of weight just sitting right on top of tanks. I've seen a ton of people do it on /r/aquaponics but idk, it seems like a disaster in the making and tends to not look nice (although I'm a hypocrit for saying so lol my set up isn't exactly classy but it was more proof of concept because I wanted to see it working in person). so what I would do if I were you is find a grow box that you want and then build it as a shelf above the tank so you're not applying extra pressure to the class itself. Then you can get yourself a small water pump (this is the one I got. it's about the size of my palm), some hosing and you should be on your way :) sorry I'm not that great at tips or tricks. it depends a lot on where you want things, what you want to spend, ect. Are you planning on fancies or single tails? Typically they recommend slightly over stocked tanks so like I would do 4-5 fancies in a 55gal for a proper aquaponics but a 50gal is a bit small for single tails.

So... I also have a brutal snail death story...

I picked up a small powerhead of Amazon ( Hydor Pico Evo-Mag 180 Circulation Pump with Magnet Mount, 180 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UK5CTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2K.ZBb1C5PE34) I got that to help agitate the surface of the tank, because my HoB wasn’t doing it well enough and I had the protein buildup.

I also got golden Inca apple snails, and snails being snails started finding all the nice hidden crevices that contain tasty algea. Well I went through 4 snails getting either sucked out of their shells, or cut up and staying in their shells until they die before I decided to unplug the power head. The ontly thing that prevented it from killing snails was when I surrounded the intake with a sponge, but that turned it into a sponge filter!

I got two more snails recently, and so far I lost one, but was able to exchange it for a new one... now the powerhead is just in the tank, unplugged, waiting to be moved into a different tank to help with cycling.

I'm in a similar situation to you. My setup is that I have one of these little pumps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHC8UX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a bucket filled with water from my tap (that I carried over). At the start of the chilling phase I run water from that bucket through the chiller to another waste bucket (don't recirculate at this stage). After a few minutes, I add a couple bags of ice to the water source and start recirculating (I move the output hose from the waste bucket to the source bucket). Also top up the water a bit (and make sure you run the pump on the lowest flow rate).

2 of these, 2 of these.

no dead spots. just enough water movement. crystal clear water.

I was battling hair algae in my 20long and loosing, mostly in part because of running a sponge filter and having dead zones. Deep cleaned and added this powerhead, now I can visibly see the algae die off. I think the 240g perfect flow for a 20long with tetras.