> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.

-----------------

I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

• Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  
• da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  
• On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  
• Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  
• There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  
• When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.
  
  Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.
  
  NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.
  
  As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.
  
  -----------------
  
  There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/
  
  
  

First comment:

Please upvote this by default so it stays towards the top. I'm still learning how2reddit

So I am NOT an artistic person so this is especially anxious for me. But, I needed something to keep my hands busy that wasn't masturbating, so here we are.

I have probably over studied techniques and materials, and I want this post to be a "documentary" if you will. Where someone who has no business painting is going to be doing just that.

So, I'll be documenting my pitfalls and approaches to everything here. With all of you lovely people, it'll also hopefully be a central location for someone like me or just wants to get into 40k can refer to.

Disclaimer: I'll be at work until 5pm EST. But my job is pretty cushy so I'll be adding planning details throughout the day

Tools and Such

Well, I probably overspent here. Only because I'm lazy and didn't want to make the drive to harbor freights. But then again, paying the premium to help support my local game shop is going to give me some karma in the long run. Here's the list of things that I ended up picking up:

• Wire Cutters
  
  • The game shop charged me $16 for them lmao. I hate myself. But they're used to cut the pieces out of the sprues. I was using a box cutter at first, and in no time I nicked myself pretty badly. Just buy them. Again, Harbor Freights.
    
• Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
  
  • I used it to trim off the excess from the sprues. The box cutter worked, but the exacto knife was a bit better because of the handle and the gradual width in the blade helps with control when you need it, or the finer point when you need to get into smaller areas.
    
• Paint Brushes
  
  • So, I spent a lot on one pair and then minimal on another. The A Lot pair was from the game stop ($16 for three types), I figured these would be much higher quality when dealing with the tiny pieces. I went to walmart and bought a set of 8 as well for $5. I'm intending to use these on things like terrain because they're larger in size and hiding issues from crappy brushes is going to be easier on terrain than it will be on a mini the size of 6 quarters.
    
• Filing tools
  
  • Honestly I'm not sure why these are needed. I thought it'd help get rid of the excess sprue on the models but it leaves a scratchy texture. I'm pissed about that. Unless someone here will tell me otherwise, just use your exacto knife
    
• PAAAINNTT
  
  • THIS IS THE BIGGEST THING I'LL FIRMLY PUT MY FOOT DOWN ON
    
  • If you're just starting out, DO NOT GO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. Its too expensive. My local shop sells them for nearly $5-$8 a bottle. Buy THIS. Its a ton of typical colors and drops the individual price down to $2.80.
    
  • Paint sets are always going to be your best friend, from what I've found. Citadel paints for example are really expensive at my local shop (like $5-$7 each expensive) But something like this is a huge savor., bringing the unit price down to $3,63.
    
  • Shading seems to overhaul the look into something more professional, so you will want to buy two separately. My buddy suggested two different ones, Black and Brown.
    
• Wet Pallette
  
  • I am yet to have this conversation without the other person talking to me like they're running for president. Wet Pallettes are a necessity. They ensure you do not waste paint, keeps your paint consistently viable while using it, and helps with storing it. I've heard a couple of days, others say months. Who knows. I'm yet to start painting, but I'm just going to say don't even mess around and just get/build one.
    
  • Tabletop Minions has a great video to show you how to make one for the lo-lo.
    
• Mini Painting Holder
  
  • If you're not looking risk smudging the paint when you're holding your mini, then this is for you. Bonus points for reducing your chances of arthritis.
    
  • You COULD get something like THIS. But I feel that because it holds onto the sides, you can't really use it to paint the base.
    
  • What I ended up doing was buying 3 bottles of champagne, cutting off the top of one of them, and then gluing & duct taping it all together. I haven't tested out its balance yet but odds are, I'm going to have to do something so its stable and I can rest it on the table standing up without worry. Bonus, I was pretty drunk for a bit.
    
    

    Theory is Great and All (11.13.19)
    

    
    So here are my updates from actually painting.
    
    

• Mini Painting Holder
  
  • LOL. Welp. didn't turn out as expected. Glue didn't stick and I had to use so much duct tape that it looks like a toxic sushi roll. Yum. We'll see how it works when I get to the actually mini painting.
    
  • https://imgur.com/sU1bqxE
    
• Paaaaaint
  
  • Welp. I'm pretty sure I added too much water. I also definitely did not mix enough of it. I'm going for a deep green metallic look and only mixed enough for one coat..... lmao. Thankfully its just the 1st so I'm hoping when I mix a boatload of it, even if the hue is different, it won't matter much.
    
  • Wet pallete: Definitely worked out. Do it.
    
  • Because of the paint being too watery, you can see some spots where it pooled. Again, gonna take it easier on the water the second time around and hope it covers up the bad stuff
    
  • In being careful with the finer details, I didn't care too much. Some paint here and there won't change much and should be unnoticeable after a few more careful coats of the actual color I want to use, when I get there.
    
  • https://imgur.com/jiNNc1A
    
    

    Life Sucks and I haven't gotten much done (11/15/19)
    

    
    So I was only able to apply a second coat of to what I've already done. But honestly, not too shabby! Apparently I didn't water down the paint too much.
    
    https://imgur.com/gallery/lA9LV1N
    
    Also, I recently switched to a different cell phone carrier, and got a $200 prepaid card.... So I'm getting these.
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004INERK4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3TMLEXVMVIW94&psc=1
    
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLVM5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1Y3PCPH3CY53X&psc=1
    
    There's a blog that I found (will have to find it again later) that recommended these.

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.

Paint

Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.

Paper

100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.

Brushes

Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

If you really wanna get it good looking I'd recommend getting an airbrush to paint it. Cans are fine but you'll never get the right colors going that way. It's possible to just use a regular brush but it'll also come out extremely thick and unsatisfactory compared to an airbrush. Its a small investment (about $150 for a nice airbrush and another $100 for a small compressor if you don't already have one. Get one with a tank if you can) but if you do even a couple of models with it you'll never want to use a regular brush to paint an entire model again.

First off the model as it comes is way too blue, I'd recommend painting it based off the newer bandai model's box art as it looks fantastic which you can see here: TIE Advanced.

For the paint itself my personal favorite is the Tamiya line of acrylics. They are the best looking and most professional out of all the acrylics I've seen. They come in nice bottles that are great too. This is of course the best for airbrushing as thats what I would do but if you do end up going the brush route a better paint would probably be Vallejo as they are more suited towards that.

I'd honestly forgo the primer and simply do a full flat black base coat to get that blue off of the solar pannels then mask those up and do the main body. According to the supplied sheet for the bandai model the main body is 70% neutral grey and 30% white with a pinch of blue grey. For the darker parts around the ship its a 100% neutral grey. You'd use that in areas like the recesses on the wing roots, the window's frame and a few other places.

After that its really up to you how much extra detail you wanna add. You can do some dark washes to get those nice shadows, maybe add some metallic scratches and what not. Theres no limit with these sort of things.

Also as a last note if you wanna get into some more of these model's I would highly HIGHLY recommend the entire line of 1/72 ships by bandai. They are all snap together and have more detail then you would believe for their price as well as coming slightly colored so you can fit it all together and still admire it even before painting. I have the TIE Fighter and plan on getting the TIE Interceptor and TIE Advanced. They are the perfect size for putting on display (or playing with haha) and even scale correctly with other real world planes in 1/72 scale.

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

First of all, whatever you choose, make sure it's double action and gravity fed.

A couple of months ago I bought my first airbrush kit.

After A LOT of research, I decided to go for an Iwata Neo CN airbrush. It's great quality and reliable, as all Iwata products are, but still more economic, which makes it great for beginners. It comes with two interchangeable cups in two sizes, which I find very practical.
With proper cleaning and maintenance, it should last a long, long time. So far, mine has been a delight to use.
It's around 55 USD on Amazon.

In my case, I preferred buying from a known, quality brand. I'm not saying the more inexpensive chinese airbrushes can't get the job done, but I'm very meticulous with my works and I'd rather minimize the chance of an unexpected failure.

Paasche is another well-known airbrush brand. I found this kit which might also fit your criteria.

One strong suggestion: do not go cheap on the compressor. It's the motor that will power whichever airbrush/es you decide to get, so it's important that it's good. I'm not telling you to buy the most expensive ones, of course, but to avoid the cheaper, smaller ones.

I recommend a compressor with a tank. The tank helps store air at the desired pressure, avoiding pulsations in the air flow. This also allows the piston to only start when the pressure drops below a certain point, saving energy and piston life, while avoiding overheating and constant noise. Additionally, the tank helps condense the humidity of the air in it (it sinks to the bottom and can be emptied), thus decreasing the risk of water droplets suddenly coming out of the airbrush (getting an additional water/humidity trap also helps).

Here is an example of one such compressor (it looks bigger than it is haha).
There might be cheaper ones; just make sure to check the reviews thoroughly to check for possible common issues, and to make sure the company provides customer support.

No matter what you buy, maintenance is key. Learn how to clean your airbrush. Make sure you're using the correct cleaning product (for instance, it's not recommended to clean certain varnishes with alcohol, as they get sticky and it makes it harder to remove from the airbrush). Clean it as soon as possible; some materials dry way faster than others, so look into that. If you're not going to use the airbrush for a long time, applying some airbrush lube on the needle is a good idea.
Cleaning it is fast and easy once you get used to it.

Sorry for the long comment, and I hope it helped in any way! :)

There's lots of articles and videos online, too; just Google things like "Good airbrush for beginners" and "How to choose an airbrush".

*Edited because typos, and a formatting fail 🤦🏻‍♀️

First off WELCOME TO THE TIME/MONEY BLACKHOLE !!
As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Daylight-Magnifier-3-Diopter-VS01222B/dp/B00DJG9DFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865330&sr=8-2&keywords=task+light+magnifier

Paint - https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Mega-Paint/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493865371&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+set

Brushes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7UFLP5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.

COPYING MY RESPONSE FROM A OLD POST!

I have used the Master Airbrush to paint my Hi-Nu Bust(Scroll down for it) and my MG Unicorn.

Both came out pretty well and to be honest I don't suggest you start with a Airbrush that is expensive... I've done some decent work on my stuff using the Iwata Neo & the Master which both we're under $50... Decent enough to place in contests.

JUST READ FOR THE COMPRESSOR, I STRAIGHT JUST COPY PASTED THIS FROM MY OLD COMMENT.

Also godamn, a Sotar 2020 to start with is really nice and might be excessive but jesus it's nice lol.

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!

​

Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.

​

• Airbrush - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Compressor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (One of the quietest compressors - I use it in the house and my gf can't hear it kick on, and she sleeps in the room right above it.)
  
• Airbrush Hose - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF7NJ78/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Moisture Trap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQO8WY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Couplers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFE7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Didn't need this big of a set, but if you end up with tools for the compressor they will come in handy.)
  
• Airbrush Cleaner kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3MG6Z4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Respirator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4EB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Extra Filters - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTP9MDO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Thinner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X6DTHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Improver - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QD780G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  
• Primer I use for minis - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  ​
  
  For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
  
  I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
  
  ​
  
  Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
  
  Hvstle

Use acrylic paint and make sure you thin it, adding regular water will work. This is probably the most important step in producing a decent looking paint job.

Better painters than I say shoot for the consistency of milk, I usually don't go that thin, but close. You might have to do a few more coats to get proper paint coverage with thinned paint, but the figure will come out looking much better and smoother than painting straight out of the bottle.

Learn to dry-brush and apply washes. These are two of the easiest painting techniques to learn and apply, and they can take a custom paint job to another level.

Here's an old comment of mine That goes into more detail about dry-brushing a applying washes.

If you need brushes I'll recommend this set. I used them for 90% of all my customs and I'm a big fan. I've also bought a few of these sets cause they're dirt cheap and use some of them for dry-brushing and applying washes. Since dry-brushing kinda tears up brushes you don't want to use a nicer brush.

/r/minipainting has a lot of great tutorials on their sidebar. I pretty much learned everything I know from watching minifigure painting tutorials on Youtube, so maybe check some of them out. I started painting/customizing with Warhammer 40k and D&D minis and most of the techniques apply to action figures.


As JSK said Figurerealm is great, I used that a lot when I first started customizing, and it's great for looking at other people's customs to get inspiration.


I can't really think of anything else, but just ask if you have any more questions.

Everyone touts the W&N line and natural hair brushes but I've been having no problems with my synthetic brushes. You dont need to pay an arm and a leg for brushes if you dont need to, if you are looking for a decent set here is one on amazon for 26 bucks that has a great selection of sizes. Heck a lot of the reviews for this specific set came from warhammer painters. Here is a set with a few more brushes and costs less, reviews seem good too.

You can save up over time for W&N if you want, look up basic brush maintenance and keep your brushes in good shape and you will rarely have issues. In the end the best brushes are the ones that have good quality while being comfortable to use. W&N is just really good quality hair, but I dont find them comfortable to use so it didn't matter.

I paint on my primer due to living in a complex that doesnt allow aerosol paints on site, so I can really help much there, sorry.

Happy painting.

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

• Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.
  
  
• Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.
  
  
• Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.
  
  
• Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.
  
  
• Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.
  
  
• Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.
  
  This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.

>Would you have a guess at consistency? Does a base coat like 50 paint / 50 water? Just an idea of an amount?

Depends on how thick the paint is, really. It can change from color to color, and even pot to pot. Varies with age of the paint too.

There is no magic ratio that I have found. It has to be mixed where it's thin enough to flow but still be able to stick. Too thick and it sputters, too thin and it goes on like a wash.

It's not that hard, just make adjustments as you're spraying.

>Damn! haha. Do the metal flakes give the brush issue?

Yes sir! Hit that one on the head.

>What is better? Do you use them both?

I use about 50/50 bottled water/vallejo flow improver.

Flow improver isn't cheap, but makes the paint stick a bit better.
Water is cheap, but turns the paint to a wash. 50/50 seems to work for me.

Kenny Boucher is the one that turned me on to the flow improver/water mix. He calls it "Gangsta Gumbo"

>When you say badger specific parts, do you mean replacement parts? How often do you have to replace pieces on them?

Mainly the oddball thread size where you connect your air supply from the compressor. The air hose was hard to find locally. Still ended up having to get some stuff from home depot to make it fit the compressor.

I think Iwata uses standard threads.

Replacement parts too, though that is true of any airbrush.

>What primer would you recommend using in your brush? I generally prefer a matte black.

Vallejo Surface Primer all day, baby! They have it in quite a few colors. I usually go with black.

http://www.thewarstore.com/product67987.html

>Are these small enough to place on my desk? I don't have much extra room in my office. Link to a decent one?

I find mine to be invaluable, I would not airbrush any other way. It is about 30" wide x 16" tall x 24" deep + hose that runs to the window out of the back of it. You will need a light for it.

edit After looking at the measurements on Amazon, it appears my memory for scale is borked. Is smaller than I said above.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463499481&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+station

>Thanks so much for taking the time to spread the knowledge!

No problem bud! The airbrush has saved me a ridiculous amount of time and made my models look far better.

Some Compressor + Airbrush sets are good (like those from Pasche or Iwata) but it's all relative to your needs (as a good brush might not be good for Gunpla due to the scale) and what is offered.

There's actually a very good deal going on right now, as you can get a Paasche TG-3F with Compressor and all your needed accessories + Prime shipping (or free Super Saver shipping.)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AI5ZJBW/

With this set you have all you need to functionally airbrush but you'll also want to pick up some needed "accessories" for you.

• Respirator, at least a half mask - Local Hardware Store for best options
  
• P100 Filters - same as above
  
• Alligator Clips on Sticks - you can pick them up at Hardware or Hobby Stores locally as well
  
• Foam Block to put the skewers into and hold up the parts while you paint. Local hobby store, or if you have the packaging material used to ship heavy electronics like TVs that would work as well.
  
• Spray Booth, if you plan to spray inside at least http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/
  
• Airbrush Lube, Iwata SuperLube or Badger Needle Juice
  
• Cleaning Brushes, just part of your more in depth cleaning routine that you'll need to do. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N3IX3Y
  
  
  You will also want to pick up some glass jars (for storing & mixing paints) as well as some plastic pipes for more accurate paint measurements (makes the jars less messy as well.)
  
  
  I highly suggest getting an easy to clean brand of paint like Vallejo Air to start with, so you can learn with less trouble as Vallejo can be cleaned up in an instant with Windex or water.

Its an endearing model because every modeler has one like it. Pretty good job for being a first kit!

As for airbrushes... I started with the super cheap Master brand airbrush. Later on I got a Japanese made Iwata. I can say that buying the Master airbrush + compressor is the perfect starter. This is a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902837&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor+tank

You get an airbrush that will be a perfect starter and a good compressor that will last you into your next step up airbrush.

I recommend staying with acrylic paints-- just easier to work with.

For putty, to fill seams with, I also recommend Perfect Putty. It's water based so it's easy to clean up and work with. You put some on a tray and use a toothpick to apply to a gap or seam, then wipe excess off with brush or finger. After it dries you can use sandpaper or a wet cottonswab to remove excess.

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902965&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+putty

What is your next kit?

If you can afford one and plan to paint a lot, I'd recommend an airbrush. Especially if you want to seriously get into it. It will give you better results and let you do stuff that you can't with spray cans.

> sometimes the paints seem expensive

Most airbrush paints aren't particularly expensive imo., and they last longer than it might look, with even a small bottle being enough for multiple (smaller) kits. They are also cheaper than cans in the long run.

> I am intimidated by the concept of using a machine, and complicated processes

Airbrushes are pretty simple machines. All you really need to do is turn on a compressor and then use the trigger to spray paint. The most complicated thing is cleaning the airbrush, but even that's pretty simple and there's a lot of guides online describing how to do it.

Thinning the paint and setting the correct PSI takes a bit of practice but isn't that big of a deal deal after a couple of kits.

> Does an airbrush cost less money than sprays

In the long run, an airbrush is probably cheaper. Looking up prices at a local online store, Tamiya spray cans run around 10€, while airbrush paints are around 3€. An added benefit of an airbrush is that there's less overspray, so you're wasting less paint.

> hat does purchasing an airbrush include? Would I have to build a setup?

You'll need a compressor, an airbrush and a hose that fits both. Optionally, a cleaning pot is really handy, as is something to clean the airbrush with (Vallejo airbrush cleaner or lacquer thinner are two popular options). There's sets on amazon that include a decent compressor + a cheap chinese airbrush (one random example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/) or you can buy them separately.

> Are there better primers/ topcoats available in airbrush paints as compared to spray?

There's good topcoats and primers in both spray can and airbrush paint form (Mr. surfacer is a great primer available in both forms, as an example). The only big thing that comes to mid that isn't available in can form is Badger stynylrez - a good acrylic primer which is handy if you want to avoid the fumes that come with spraying lacquer paint.

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

Also not the original commenter, but I just bought an airbrush a few months ago and did a (read way too much) research into it. u/darcybono has pretty excellent advice on the Badger Patriot 105, it's a great brush.

This is a copy/paste from a conversation I had awhile back where someone asked about them like a month after I had started using mine. The sotar refers to the Sotar 20/20 the brush I wound up getting. I find the cone is a little smaller than I'd like, but haven't gotten a medium tip yet so I know it can go bigger.

​

>Amazon was fine for the sotar and this was the compressor I got.
>
>I also grabbed this cleaning kit but I don't use the upper brush holder because it doesn't fit the sotar. I actually 3d printed a stand for mine.
>
>You'll also want Vallejo airbrush thinner, iwata airbrush cleaner, and I recommend distilled water.
>
>If you haven't swapped your paints to dropper bottles I heavily recommend doing so. The GW pots really suck for it, though you can mitigate that some by using pipettes. Just make sure to get an agitator that isn't reactive like, I use hematite beads.
>
>Let me know if you have any other questions!

It's super fab, the compressor is quiet enough that I can use it when the house is asleep (I'm in a basement office of a two story home) I've used it a bunch for priming and have a couple projects I'm working toward where I'll be using it for base coating. I got one of the Munitorum Cargo Crate boxes and after testing basecoating on them I'll be moving to using the brush to basecoat my marines and such.

First off, Great work! As someone just starting you did really well!

As for things to look to do to improve that I noticed.

• Thin your paints, and use at least 2 thin layers. Duncan from Warhammer TV says this constantly). It really does make the colors and application come out better. If the water to paint ratio is tricky to maintain due to evaporation use a medium. I like Liquitex Flow Aid.
  
  
• Washes. Mainly for the metal bits Nuln Oil, eagles on the chest plate Seraphim Sepia, and robes.
  
  
• Fix up the details with a fine brush. It mainly shows on the shoulder pads, yet it is there elsewhere.
  
  
• Highlights. Simple yet tedious to do. However, it makes the model come alive so much more!
  
  
• Mold lines. Get an x-acto knife and just shave the parts off you don't want. Using the back end of it should work just fine.
  
  Warhammer TV is an excellent resource for figuring out how to do painting tecniques with a demonstration and walk through.
  
  A lot of what I'm sharing with you I ignored for far too long. I can tell you the model I am painting now looks far better than the model I was painting a year ago.
  
  This article is great inspiration for painters of any skill level.
  
  Keep it up, keep improving, and if you learn something don't hesitate to share it and how it works for you.
  
  I look forward to seeing your next model and/or squad you paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-STARVAST-Cleaner-Station/dp/B0794SX16Y/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526263410&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=airbrush+cleaner&psc=1

This is a must have if you want to airbrush - I have the same kit and the key is to always clean after every session or between colors - I usually run thinner, then windshield washer fluid (or windex original - with ammonia), and water (repeat until the airbrush spews clear) - no need to buy specific airbrush cleaner solutions

If your compressor doesn't turn on when you plug it in, you need to increase the pressure (lift and twist the black knob and turn towards the plus sign - 25-30psi will be fine)

A lot of people use Citadel but I'm more used to Tamiya but the concept is the same - thin paints (in general 1:1 paint:thinner) prior to airbrushing

I would stick to the dual-action guns over the single-action in that kit since the former has more utility and control - I haven't found a use for single-action yet but I'm sure there is - all you need to know is pushing down the trigger controls air flow while pulling up on the trigger controls how much paint comes out - practice on paper first

I've heard that using windex is a great alternative to using thinner for acrylic paints but I haven't tried yet - if so, then it's a great money saver

I would also look into a airbrush booth if you plan to paint indoors to collect the fumes - I have the generic portable one and it works great (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BMUH8L6&pd_rd_r=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9&pd_rd_w=18wRl&pd_rd_wg=V3l93&psc=1&refRID=36F6CYT7WNA7Q9Y4AVS9)

r/modelmakers has a great post on airbrushing if you need further help including how to and maintenance

Just to add my 2 cents - I also have the Iwata HP-CS and absolutely love it. My close friend has the Badger Sotar that Miniac uses and loves his airbrush as well. You really can't go wrong with either of them. My only additional recommendation is to invest in an air-compressor that has a dedicated tank. I use this one and it has been awesome for the last two years. The tank helps eliminate any pulsating pressure and allows for a more consistent experience. Its not super important, but what kind of miniatures does your husband paint and what does he plan on painting with the airbrush? One thing to keep in mind while you look at airbrushes is the needle sizes of the unit - they can be changed, but the one that comes with it does play a role in how the airbrush behaves. The Iwata comes with a .35 mm needle while the Sotar can be found with needles ranging from .19 mm to .31 mm. The .19 mm needle is much finer and is better for precision work. I think the .35 is a great "all around" size, but if he plans on doing a lot of small details, he may find it a bit too large.

An airbrush is a great gift! I know I use mine all the time!

Since you have a Harbor Freight near you, if you don't care about noise, then this post from awhile back is still relevant for your budget. If you live in an apartment and/or noise matters, then cheap Master airbrush sets are your best bet.

If you want to build a ghetto spray booth AND care about your health, this guide is a good read. Otherwise, Master Portable Booths get the job done, though they seem to be a lot more expensive now than they were a couple months ago (~$60-$70 with shipping). If you can get them cheap, they are very portable when folded up, which is great for storage in an apartment and travelling to gunpla builder get-togethers. But they are basically high power computer fans with a power supply, basic fiberglass filters, and a plastic housing, which can be DIY for less.

edit: NEOs are good but sometimes if you are patient, you can get a significantly better brush for less. Some good ones are:

• Sparmax sp35
  
• Badger Patriot 105
  
• Iwata Revolution HP BR
  
  There are some caveats with each of these, such as not having extra nozzles of different sizes, or not having good local suppliers for replacement parts. On that note, if you buy off of Craigslist, you should try to get as much of a discount as possible, even if it still looks "brand new." If it breaks down on you right away, depending on how difficult it is to procure replacement parts, you might as well have bought a brand new brush to begin with. But sometimes you can get a really good deal.
  
  It's also not a bad idea to start off cheap to see if you enjoy airbrushing, have a feasible set up for it, AND have the time for it to make it worth your while. From a cheap brush like a NEO or a Master kit, you can incrementally upgrade brush, compressor, accessories for the most part, so long as you can find the right adapters for the various air tool fittings. Old or "bad" brushes can still be good for laying down primer or basecoats that are harder to mess up, while reserving the better brushes for shading and detail work.

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.

The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.

Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.

You can get a decent, but pretty basic kit for $80 (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451448207&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=airrbrush+kit)

I have no experience with that airbrush, so I cannot speak of its quality. My recommendation is to buy the Iwata Neo from Hobby Lobby or Michaels. 50% off coupons are pretty easy to come by, so you could get it for $50-$60.

If you do that, you will need a compressor. The TC-20T (http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451448428&sr=8-2&keywords=tc20t) is a good compressor that is pretty quiet and has a tank.

Personally, I have a Badge 105 Patriot and I just use a noisy Campbell-Hausfield compressor. I just got these for Christmas and am still experimenting with it before I paint a model.

I wish the best of luck to you!

Stuff that you need:

• Compressor - What I use There are lots of different compressors out there but you want to at least get one that is designed for airbrushing IE: oil-less and preferably one with a tank. Airbrush compressors are designed to be quiet as opposed to like a shop compressor that is loud as fuck.
  
  
• Airbrush - What I use This is an Iawata eclipse which is more on the expensive side but honestly since the airbrush is what is doing all of the work I opted for quality here. This is not to say that you cannot find good quality airbrushes for less but this particular name and model is fairly well known for being one of the best. You might want to shop around on this one to find one within your budget. The main thing is that you want gravity feed with the cup on the top of the airbrush, and dual action meaning that you press the trigger down for air only and pull back for paint. Single action airbrushes (paint and air together when you depress the trigger) are garbage.
  
  
• Airbrush Flow Improver - link This is what makes airbrushing thick acrylics especially GW paints possible. It allows you to thin down the paints while maintaining good coverage but won't speed up drying time like thinner or pure water will.
  
  
• Misc other stuff - You will also want latex gloves for the hand that you hold models with. Find at auto parts stores or in the first aid section of a drug store in boxes of 100. Masks, either the paper disposable ones or get a painters respirator mask at the hardware store. Simple Green for cleaning your airbrush. I run a full paint cup of it through followed by a full paint cup of water in between colors and when I finish for the day. Gun/Pistol oil for oiling up the moving parts of the airbrush. Find at any place that sells firearms (walmart, academy, outdoor goods stores). I use it to oil up the trigger, as well as all of the threading. I also dip the needle itself in the oil which lightly lubricates the spray nozzle and helps to prevent clogs.
  
  
• Final tip - everything that I learned about airbrushing I have learned from this dude on youtube: Next Level Painting I suggest watching his videos as well as videos from other youtubers to avoid a lot of trial and error. Lastly ... don't be intimidated... it takes practice but once you feel comfortable with using the airbrush it really ups your painting game.

For a compressor get one with a tank, it assures a good even flow of air.

The one I have is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The compressor I linked is pretty quiet as well.

For airbrushes I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013NBQLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The airbrush has worked great for me and looks very nice, it provides a good flow of paint and is very easy to clean.
For paint I use Vallejo model air, is needs to be thinned down a decent amount. I have also tried Citadel air paint and while it needs a small amount of thinning it worked well. There are lots of other good airbrushes as well, I have been very impressed with Badger's airbrushes, they are a little expensive around $100 but they are very good quality. Make sure you get paint reducer and airbrush cleaner as well, the reducer helps thin down the paint to prevent clogs in the airbrush.

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004THXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq8Tzb8SY82G3

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FHNE3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gt8TzbT5PD01H

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3VMDED/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5r8TzbVV97JR3

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AX31TZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Os8TzbN7TW9AQ

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/8883705629/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vz8TzbWWMHY1M


I hope this helps! :)

Seriously considering getting an airbrush since brush painting is my least favorite part of modeling lol. I have a large stand up compressor but it doesn't have a moisture trap. Price wise to get everything I need to use my current compressor I could get this set for a little less money. I'd get a better brush down the road if I I liked airbrushing but would this be a decent starting set or should I just save up a little more and hope I enjoy it lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1486139264&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

I probably am not the person to ask. I started (and still occasionally use) with very cheap airbrushes (my first one, if you buy it separately on Amazon costs less than $20 USD) and only recently upgraded to a much nicer one in the last year or so.

The kit I started with was this, this exact kit (Master G23 and a small, tankless compressor), four years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468020628&sr=8-3&keywords=master+airbrush+kit

I still use the compressor (and have no others).

My current airbrush which sees most daily use is this one (a Badger Sotar 20/20): https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468020664&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+sotar

At the time I bought it, I bought it for half that price. It's a great brush, but it isn't for beginners. ~~~~

Now, most people on this forum are going to cry foul and claim that the Master G23 is a bad brush, oh no, it's cheap chinese made crap and whatever. There's some truth to this. They are much more maintenance intensive, and less precise, but they are cheap and serviceable if you maintain them religiously. I airbrushed my models for nearly two years with just the cheap chinese airbrush, and if you clean it regularly, it'll work fine for most jobs aside from maybe, 1/72 German Camo.

The usual one I recommend is this for beginners after the usual handwringing about those "horrid Chinese airbrushes."

https://www.amazon.com/Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468020757&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+CN

It's a chinese made airbrush sold by a Japanese company, Iwata, who makes their own line of high end airbrushes. Now, some users even cry foul about that, saying that because it's Chinese made, it's not any good even if the quality control is a bit better.

Fine, in that case, one that is often recommended is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI

Most people wouldn't use the compressor I use; they prefer the stuff that either (1) has a tank (2) has more adjustability in pressure (3) has a water filter/moisture trap. But my compressor has worked just fine for the last few years.

However, the bottom line? I'd say get the best you can afford.

Here's the maintenance guide I wrote for that really cheap Chinese airbrush a while back:

https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzw9o/master_g23type_airbrush_takedown_and_cleaning/

If you are unwilling to do this every single time you use that cheap chinese airbrush, don't buy one.

Good sites for airbrush reviews include Don's Airbrush Tips, which is on the sidebar. Note that he reviewed a Master G23, and didn't have very awful things to say about it, contrary to what most people will say on this sub.

If you look through my post history, any model that was posted prior to January 2016 was painted with a Master G23, if it wasn't brush painted.

As for brush painting, this is what happened when I did a project in 1/144 scale solely using a brush (aside from a sprayed primer, which you can get in a can).

It tells you what I did, and how. If that photo's results are acceptable to you, then brush painting may work for you. I don't really recommend it, since airbrushing is honestly just easier, faster, and in most respects, better.

https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/.

*




TL:DR; The cheapest airbrush combo you can buy that works reasonably well in my opinion is the Master G23 with the tankless, square shaped compressor. However, if you can afford better, buy better,** not the least of which is because every single person on here except a few people will claim that those Chinese made brushes are garbage (some of the actually are, some are not). The set costs about 50 USD (a little more if you don't have prime shipping), whereas a good "quality" brush (even if still Chinese made) may cost about 50 USD to 100+ just for the brush alone. Brush painting is possible, but difficult for beginners. However, you also will still need it because you won't airbrush every last part.

If you're just starting out and don't yet want to invest in an airbrush, get spray cans of the colors you need for the camo scheme and brush paint everything else (which is what you'd normally do anyway, except you'd replace spray cans with airbrushed paint). If you don't even want to buy those, then I'd recommend a can of Tamiya gray primer, and then Model Master Acrylic paints for that model, because those paints are very brushable once you have a good layer of primer laid down.


The reason you don't buy that SprayCanBrush is because it's the worst of both worlds. It's not as controllable as an airbrush, but just as expensive as a spray can, and it doesn't have anywhere near the precision of even one of those cheap Chinese double action airbrushes that everyone likes to rag on all the time. Propellant is also expensive. If you're buying an airbrush, also don't bother with the ones that give you a hookup to a bottle of canned air; that's like buying a airbrush to make yourself a spray can.

Ok, I've seen a lot of answers to your questions, but don't over-think this hobby. You don't need a bunch of fancy tools or other stuff. Eventually, if you stick with the hobby long enough, you'll amass everything, but don't go out and buy it all at once. I'm not going to go back and answer everything because a lot of people already gave you good answers, but I will add my two cents to some of your questions.

When it comes to an airbrush and air supply, you don't need a $150 brush and $200 compressor. I use a Neo for Iwata and this compressor. A little over $100 for my entire airbrushing set-up. It's worked flawlessly for me for the past two years. And I don't spray in a booth. I spray in my basement with a fan on wearing a mask made for paint. The mask came in a set of 2 from Lowes for $11.

When it comes to Future, I don't recommend it any more as I've found it to be inconsistent. If you want a good clear coat with consistent finishes, stick with Tamiya X-22. I thin it with Mr. Leveling Thinner.

With weathering, I mainly use AMMO or AK weathering products. They are pretty straightforward. You can view the techniques for each individual product in AMMO's catalog. They clean up with mineral spirits or any other enamel thinner.

When it comes to scratchbuilding, you can get sheet styrene here, but you really don't need it unless you plan on making an entire plane or boat from nothing. I've had a single sheet that has lasted me for years. Most scratchbuilding can be done with old copper wire that lays around. Strip some wire out of any old electronic device and you have a stash.

These are the mats you asked about. Their basic function is to protect your bench, but they also work well for cutting tape on and basic measurements. Some of them have different patterns on them for different things.

Did you get a small one like this, or maybe similar but with a tank? I've got the tanked version and yeah, it gets pretty warm after 30-60 minutes of spraying. Without the tank, the compressor will run non-stop and is going to build up some heat. At least with the tank, it cycles on and off. I think that's just the nature of the beast. Set up a fan to blow across the pump cylinder head and let the compressor rest from time to time if it concerns you. I wish I could tell you not to worry about it at all (maybe they're built for continuous abuse), but I try to play it safe with mine. In short, yes, I have the same experience.

As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.

Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.

Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters

EDIT: Added the APJ link

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

That's a loaded question. I'm going to assume you want the cheapest price for a mid grade set up. I wouldn't recommend going cheaper than this set up personally. tl;dr roughly $170-$200 for a mid grade setup. Can you go cheaper? Yes, would I recommend it? No.

Air brush compressor with tank $100 (ideally you want one with a tank, the master one is actually pretty great but fairly loud, if you want a quieter one you will need to spend more $)

Air brush itself, start off with a quality midgrade brush. DON'T CHEAP OUT AND GET A LOW GRADE MASTER BRUSH TRUST ME. I started with a badger 105 which runs around $55-$70 and really like the thing, but will have to upgrade down the road if I want to do more than just base coating. It's spray pattern is very wide so for finer details it's really hard (for me) to use.

Airbrush flow improver. $10-$15 per 200ml. You will mix this 25(flow improver)/25(distilled water)/50(paint) for thinning purposes. Obviously some paints will need to be thinned more and others less. Generally you want the consistency of milk for your end product. Proper paint thinning and what psi to shoot it at will be one of the biggest things to learn when starting off airbrushing, but it's something you will learn fast through trail and error. I highly recommend getting some models you don't care about to get through this process. I was lucky enough to have my store manager let me practice painting some terrain for the store to get over my learning curve.

Airbrush cleaner + roll of paper towels. Once you are done with the paint and need to clean out the airbrush fill the cup with water, shoot out the water (into the airbrush pot) clean out the bowl with a paper towel, put cleaner in and shoot that out, then keep shooting water through till soap bubbles stop forming and water is clear.

Airbrush pot/holder this is really a great investment for $13 holds the airbrush and it gives you a place to spray your left overs/clean out your brush

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Optional-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ

These ones on amazon are pretty popular. I'm not from North America but I'm using this exact model but isn't masters branded, I got mine from ali express.

I assume they all come from the same factory in China and Masters just put their brand on it for those in North America. I've had mine for just less than a year now, I haven't had an issue with it. I also often see a lot of modellers on YouTube like Scale Modelling Channel and Itsagunpla using the same or similar models of spraybooths.

They work quite well, the included lights are bright, the fans are quite powerful. And if I'm not mistaken you can connect 2 units together to get even more powerful ventilation. It's not terribly loud at full power either.

It's a little bit hit or miss though, I have a friend who bought this model and his broke about 3, 4 months into using it. He bought another one though and hasn't had a problem after 6ish months. So just keep that in mind.

I'd imagine if you get the Masters branded one you'd at least be able to contact them if you have an issue with your unit.

I bought the Master Deluxe Airbrush kit on Amazon (likely the one you saw), and everything /u/BigBraddWolfe said has been my exact experience.

I originally got mine for Gundam model kits, though the brush works fantastically for priming and base-coating miniatures as well. I would definitely recommend the Deluxe over the cheaper version, because the "extras" make all the difference.

The tank allows you a fair bit of continuous spray before the motor kicks in, and pretty much ensures you don't get any rattling or crazy pressure differences. It fills back up pretty quickly, so you won't spend more than a few seconds waiting on it if you choose to wait it out vs. continuing to spray. I'm pretty sure that the extra needles of various sizes, quick-disconnect, fancy hose, and moisture trap are a savings in this bundle when compared to upgrading an existing compressor. In any case, it's doubtful that I'll have to get another compressor in the future assuming this one continues to hold up. It does everything I could ask of it, in about the best way any compressor is going to. It gives me air steadily and for a long time, pressurized to a level I determine, keeps moisture out, and allows me to quickly connect and disconnect the brush.

That last point turns out to be quite the life-saver for the brush itself. It works fine, sprays well, and can go wider or tighter with the included needles. Where this thing may have a little more upkeep vs. an Iwata is in the clean-up between colors. I find myself breaking it down to clean the needle guard and do a "deep cleaning" just about every time I change colors. It just doesn't satisfy me to wash a bunch of cleaner through it and hope for the best. I would imagine an Iwata will create less buildup on the needle and in the guard, allowing you to clean it out a bit quicker. For me, it's not too much of a hassle because I just need to rinse the cup, slide the needle out, give it a wipe, remove and clean the guard, then stick everything back together. With the quick-disconnect I don't have to worry about my compressor's pressure, or the line, or any of that. I pop the brush off, do the quick cleaning, and it's all but spotless a minute later when I pop it back on and go back to spraying.

Even if you have no intention of using the included brush, you're probably still getting a decent compressor fully decked out at a steal. If you want to go and drop the remaining budget on a neo, by all means do so and you'll have a fantastic setup for airbrushing dolls and whatever other large surfaces you want to repaint. If you grab another quick-connect fitting (it seems like most of the hose fittings for compressors are standardized by one of a few manufacturers), then you could switch between them at will for different jobs. Use the basic Master one for priming or whatever rough jobs you need to crank out, and break out the neo for finer detail work.

Thoughts on the first Neo kit I found: it looks like the brush is better but I can't speak definitively on the compressor's workings. It may be quieter than mine, or it could be louder. It looks like the three settings on it are all you get, while I have a little gauge on mine to set my PSI to whatever I want (I typically use 20-25). It may seem like a small thing, but I think it's kind of nice that it has a little holder on it. It's a kind of profound terror to pick up the airbrush, fill it with paint, and realize you have nowhere to put it down when you suddenly need two hands again.

You're going to find that you can either get some decent gear upfront for a realistic price, or you can go cheap and have to replace poorly performing gear almost immediately, which is the expensive way to go. These items below come in within your listed budget and will give you good service for years.

Get a compressor with a tank. Those cheap air compressors may save you thirty dollars upfront, but you're really going to regret having that on-demand-only air pressure bobbing up and down and screwing up your air flow. This Master TC-20T is a good buy. Get the TC-40T for twenty dollars more if you're going to want to do other types of spray paint art in the future. This one has more endurance before heating up. I own one of these and they are quality gear at a good price.

Get a decent starter air brush. This Iwata Neo Dual Action is good for a starter and yet isn't too expensive so if you screw it up you won't break the bank. At the same time, the machining of the parts is much, much better than those cheap Master sets which really aren't good at all. Granted, you may get lucky and get a good-yet-cheap Master air brush, but more likely than not, you'll spend most of your time trying to get the thing to give you a spray without splatter.

Get a quick release coupling set for the airbrush. Having to use a wrench to attach the air brush gets old really, really fast -- like immediately -- and the ten or so bucks makes it a great deal. Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

• 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  
• 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  
• 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  
• 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  
• EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.
  
  Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things

Don't go the cheap route in buying an airbrush. I HIGHLY recommend you buy an airbrush from iwata, their quality and prices are great. I myself use an Iwata HP C Plus for 2 years and it still is my go-to brush. It can do anything, from fine detail jobs to wide sprays for blending. For an air compressor, you should get one with a tank. Here is a good set to buy Iwata w/ compressor combo. Save up and go for quality on airbrushes, trust me.

Or if you want to save up on money, you can buy another Iwata airbrush, the HP CR Revolution gravity feed which is a great airbrush at a fraction of the price.

For airtanks, I've used a couple, but they really don't differ much with brands in my opinion. Go for an air compressor with a tank like this one from amazon.

Now if you're looking for a high quality airbrush and price doesn't matter, I recommend you buy this badboy from hobbywave. Its my second airbrush, and it handles like a dream.

Hope this helps.

You need the tools and you need the space. I used a circular saw and tried my best to get straight corners and square pieces but it is a little crooked here and there. A table saw would have been awesome to have for this.

If you have those tools and know how to use them, this is not a hard thing to build.

But honestly, I thought I was saving money building my own like this but I am pretty sure this thing would have been cheaper. Even with the adapter I would need to use it in Sweden...

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=18KR6TIBSRBKI&keywords=miniature+brushes&qid=1550092873&s=gateway&sprefix=miniature+bru%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I use the Neo CN and my only gripe with it is that the paint cup is small for doing large parts in batches(think PG large - but it's good for almost everything else). It's very easy to tear down and clean. Another issue is that the O-ring for the cup will break down quickly if you keep it around lacquer/enamel thinners, but it doesn't seem to be necessary (My cup no longer has the O-ring and there's no leaks).

For compressors try looking for used ones on eBay or craigslist (You're looking for one that delivers at least 30 PSI with oil-less single or double piston operation). You can get name brand one with a deep discount. Most compressors made for hobbyists come with regulators already so no big deal. Try to get a name brand one such as Testors, Silentaire, Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Grex. The designs from Master and unbranded are all copies of the ones made by Silentaire and others. I can't comment on the quality but they get lots of good ratings and recommendations. Here's a prime example. Noise can definitely be an issue, so do look into quieter options with tanks if you live in an apartment complex. I use a old model Testors AC 200 and it can run for 3 hours easily without thermal protection kicking in. I picked it up for 40 dollars on ebay.

Honestly if you use a proper hobby thinner with your paint you'll never have part brittleness unless you just pool a crap ton of paint. Lacquer thinner (the medium with the worst rap) can dissolve polystyrene and ABS, but when paint atomizes from the airbrush, most of the thinner already evaporates as it travels the distance to the part. When most of the paint hits, the worst enemy of your plastic is already in the air. Hardware store thinner can be much harsher than hobby brand thinners (Mr. Hobby Thinner/Leveling Thinner/GaiaNotes Thinner/Tamiya X-20A lacquer thinner), even then I know a few users here use hardware store lacquer thinner with no issues. But if you're afraid of paint brittle-ness you can just stick to acrylics such as Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel/Games Workshops, etc. They are easier to clean up and the fumes aren't near as bad as lacquers (still need a mask for particles, though). I wouldn't recommend spraying a lot of enamels as base color though, as enamel thinner can also make parts brittle and unlike lacquer it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. Not to mention everytime I'd spray testors or tamiya enamels they'd be quite difficult to clean out of the airbrush.

Another thing to consider when you're choosing your type of paint is where you can spray. If you can only spray inside and you don't have the money for a really good spray booth, you should stick with acrylics. Acrylics also require good ventilation but you can get away with a strong fan blowing out a window and a respirator as well. Lacquers fumes are carcinogenic. I spray mine outside with a fan running behind me and my organic vapor respirator on. I'll be investing in a spray booth further down the line but it's important to consider your workspace.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

For that money you could probably pick up a relatively good airbrush/compressor set. If he's never used one before it would be a fairly big change in his painting process, but I've yet to meet a modeller that doesn't lust after that smooth airbrush finish!

Paasche make excellent airbrushes, this looks like quite a good one. This would be a sufficient compressor to pair it with although you may need an adapter if the lone user review is to be trusted. This would leave you some budget left to pick up extra supplies like paint thinning solution (for making normal acrylics airbrush friendly).

here is my set up. nothing to complain about. and the badger 105 is a great starter. its use of good machining means it only has one o-ring and its dead simple to clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Fitting-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B0038NJYHG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9CTBV4FN6C10RQSFJXPG

https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354405&sr=1-4&keywords=master+airbrush+1%2F6

then you will need cleaning supplies such as

https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=pd_sim_201_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SG1JR28SAK6TVWHEZ03

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354507&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata%2Bairbrush%2Bcleaner&th=1

I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything and it makes painting a base coat of pure white or yellow super simple. also makes painting a color shift or pattern very easy. if you have the cash i would highly recommend it

here are some of my projects i have completed with it

https://imgur.com/a/N4mhr

If you live in the US, Masters Airbrushes are very affordable test beds for air brushing.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit

With an Air Tank.

If you live in other countries, you can consider AS186. Almost the same compressor but 220V. You can get a Chinese airbrush for testing purposes.

If you like Aurbrushing, you can upgrade to more branded Airbrushes like Iwata and Badger while keeping the Compressor... Then use the budget airbrush for Priming and such.

I personally have the AS186 for a year and painted assortment of 15+ HGs and MGs with it. Used included China airbrush for a few kits before deciding to get a Sparmax Airbrush since I'm convinced I'll enjoy airbrushing

Branded Airbrush gives better control over the thickness of the line, better for pre-shading.

The reviews are a bit special, I doubt it'll last you long, even if it manages to spray once for you. I've never come across such a compressor, in honesty, save your money, buy once and buy right.

If you're that tight on funds then one of these will get you going, but the compressor leaves a lot to be desired. If you can stretch further, a kit like this has a decent compressor, the airbrush is still a cheap chinese kit. If you want to spend money more wisely then a compressor like this and an airbrush like this will serve many years for a beginner before upgrading the airbrush to something with higher detail. The compressor will serve any model airbrush very well. You can get that compressor or similar in a kit too.

You're almost certainly going to ruin your first brushes, god knows I did, so don't buy anything too expensive. I'd recommend this set as a good starting point;

https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Paint-Brush-Miniature-Brushes/dp/B007H4YR8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3MTI00RQ46DDG&keywords=army+painter+brush+set&qid=1550772527&s=gateway&sprefix=army+painter&sr=8-4

Also make sure to grab some brush soap to clean your brushes out;

https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-105-BP-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1FDUSPRMEW4OW&keywords=masters+brush+soap&qid=1550772664&s=gateway&sprefix=masters+brush+&sr=8-1

Here's a vid on how to take care of your brushes and use the soap;

https://youtu.be/GeDwTY7C9xs

You should absolutely make a wet palette too, here's another vid;

https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM

As far as paints go, vallejo and citadel are probably your best option, both are very good brands of paint, some people tend to avoid citadel because they tend to cost a little more and if the jars aren't closed tightly they can dry out easily, so It's best to get what you can get both cheaper and the easier.

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel: https://youtu.be/96mjmqWTPfM

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

Honestly, don't bother with either of those compressors. You REALLY want one with a tank. For precision painting, the tank ensures an even air flow, while the kind that don't have a reserve tank sometimes can't keep up with consistent spray.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1449878332&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

YES, it's more expensive, but honestly if you want to do it, I highly suggest you do it right. Had several friends buy those starter kits and they always wound up replacing both the compressor and brush it comes with, thus spending more.

Speaking of brush, those brushes are pretty bad. They aren't precision machined, so they use O-Rings all over the place. Those are hard to clean and a point of failure.

I have two airbrushes that I adore: an Iwata Revolution and a Grex (I forget the model)

You have a few different kinds of grips: a pistol grip and a pen grip. I have one of each and use them for different applications, but have found that I mostly prefer the Grex.

I think this is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Grex-Tritium-TG3-Trigger-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002XQ2K5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449878477&sr=8-2&keywords=Grex+Airbrush

Someone can probably recommend a cheaper alternative-

I recommend a gravity feed. Side feed and vacuum feed are both more of a pain to clean, and don't work so well with small amounts of paint for miniature work.

Anyways, just my opinions and observations. YMMV!

1. An airbrush is DEFINITELY worth it. Both money- and time-wise. Plus the vehicles (and other large flat surfaces) will be covered in a very nice way, something you cannot do with a brush.
   
   
2. Try to get a cheap (20-40$) airbrush, since it is hard to properly clean and you need to practice with it before fully appreciating a 200$ one. Look for a double action airbrush.
   
   
3. Try to get a good compressor, since it will last and will serve you in the future. Look for a compressor with an air tank, 3L is enough. I bought mine for 100$ and it works wvery well (it should be this one).
   
   
4. As an airbrush station you can use a cardboard box, plus some cardboard or newspaper to protect your table/desktop.
   
   
5. You will need some cleaning supplies, like an Airbrush Cleaner (I suggest the Vallejo one, but you can find something cheaper), a needle-like tip to clean small holes, ...
   
   
6. Finally, you will need some paints. You can use the standard GW ones, but you need to thin them down with a proper Thinner (I suggest Vallejo's one, again). You can also look into the Citadel Air range. My suggestion is to get some Vallejo Game Air or Vallejo Model Air paints for the color you need most (primer, basecoat, ..), then use your Citadel paints thinned down for the less used colors. Vallejo paints come in dropper bottles, MUCH MUCH BETTER than the standard Citadel pots for airbrushing.

Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:

Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I9WXOKVZTYMO3

Compressor: Not sure which one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I10JZK102OKEGV

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=IOQHMHZT48RDP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I3DYP4EJGJ9917

Spray booth:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I2LP8DLJI9UTR9


I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.

I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.

If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.

And for another 20 bucks, you can get the deluxe kit with 3 airbrushes.. I bought this and have been very happy with it. Like the others said, it's a good starter kit. My only complaint is not having a header tank for air; oh, and the "regulator" doesn't do much. It seems like the pressure is double for the first second, so I always shoot some air off to the side before making a pass on what I'm painting.

Another great investment in cheap Chinese stuff is the spray booth: this setup is one of my favorite hobby investments. You can replace the filter with any decent filter floss - this stuff for aquariums works great.

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

Here's a link to the one I got on Amazon:

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts & https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


It's seems pretty good. I haven't been able to test mine with paint but I did plug it in real quick when I got it and it seems like it's pretty strong. Hopefully this week I'll be able to start.

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004INERK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452252&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+neo&dpPl=1&dpID=31GV4HFiqIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452308&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=california+silent+compressor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQO8W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452347&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+hose&dpPl=1&dpID=41K8ruY-CAL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452388&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8+npt

First advice with new painters is always thin your paints. A more accurate advice is to thin your paint when you want to do just about anything other than dry brush.

The follow up question is often "how thin?" The answer for this depends on what you want to do. If you're doing a basic wet blend or base coat, something like melted ice cream will suffice. If you're doing more detailed work, or more fine blending, something like skim milk will work better.

The better question is "why?" You're often told that wet paint flows better, and therefore won't leave brush marks, but there's an additional thing that's occasionally mentioned as a drawback of acrylic paints; they're semi transparent.

This is abused in several painting techniques, two of which I'll describe below.

The first is layering, which the simplest version is what I described in my previous post. If your paint is thin enough, some of the layer underneath will show through. For this, you'll want to be closer to skim milk than melted ice cream. You can then build up layers (therefore "many thin layers", or "layering") with each successive layer covering less and less, but also with each layer providing more coverage.

The second, and more advanced technique is called feathering or void blending, and is really just a more advanced form of layering. When you put down a layer, very quickly clean and dry your bush to where it's moist. Then, use your brush as a sponge to make the edges of the layer you just did more faint. the trick with this, is you have to be fast. Acrylic paint dries quickly, and unless you're using an acrylic drying retarder, thinning your paint makes the paint dry even faster.

As an aside, often times, some old school painters are called "brush likers" because they'll use a variant of this called spit blending, where they clean the brush with their mouth, using their spit to keep the brush moist.

For more on this topic, see this video by Miniac, and for more on the general topic of blending see this video by Vince Venturella

If you want a small compressor you want something like this. They come with and without the airtank but if you're willing to shell out the bucks one with a tank is a better option. The one you've linked isn't really suitable to your needs. You could look at a deal like this one and then get a better airbrush as your next purchase. As well, check out sites like harborfreight, they often have deals on compressors.

If that's all you want to do then almost any airbrush will get the job done, but if you think that there's even a chance that you want to go further than that, you might consider getting something at least reasonably good.

I like the Iwata Neo as a good starter brush.

Have you thought about asking around to your friends and seeing if any of them have an airbrush you can borrow? Alternatively, you could look around and see if anybody is offering an airbrush demo/class in your area.

Heres a link to the airbrush kit I started with. I got good results with the 2 gravity feed brushes it comes with. Im still using the air compressor with the Iwata brush I upgraded to:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1517488015&sr=1-6&keywords=airbrush+kit

Personally, I like Tamiya branded supplies. Their kits have great details and Ill also use their masking tape, primer, and paints. I like acrylic paint in general since its easy to clean i.e. wash everything out in the kitchen sink with water.

For clear coating, Ive used testors dullcote and glosscote and had good results over Tamiya paint except for when I spray too much at once with the rattle can. For that reason Im thinking of switching to Mr. Color super clear so I can use it with my airbrush and have more control and a finer mist.

I use Microset & Microsol with my decals

Vallejo acrylic putty is easy to use. Model Master cement (for thicker more viscous applications) and Tamiya extra thin cement for the fine detail work. Tamiya line accent color (black or brown) for my panel lining. I wipe it off with testors enamel thinner.

For weathering pigments, MIG products work well or you can DIY by scraping artist pastels and using the dust created.

Finally, most of my small tools (knife, chisel/scraper, tweezers) are branded "excel". I think that is just the brand my local hobby store happens to sell.

There are of course many more options for materials/supplies that work great for modelling but this is just a sampling of the brands that I use on my kits.

First some basics:

for miniature painting we use acrylic colours and there are a lot of different brands available some are more famous among miniatures and scale models (because they have specific colours available, like the one you linked is a palette fur US WW2 military colours) some are more often used by artists and all of them have their advantages. The same with brushes and in the end it is more about personal preference and availability (makes no sense to buy the brand people say it is good but you have to order it while something of equal quality is available in the store around the corner and for a beginner a more basic set with ~10 basic colours is better than such a specific one)

For the brushes you want something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Watercolor-Miniature-Ergonomic-Precision/dp/B004HHIO50/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=army+painter+brushes&qid=1550092128&s=gateway&sr=8-10

in addition to the one you linked because you need more straight/fine detail ones and some larger one depending on the techniques used (dry brushing for example)

​

The only thing that I really recommend is to use a caned spray primer as colours won't stick very well to the pure plastic surface and you already have a basecoat if you use a coloured one. But it need to be a Primer and not a spray colour. I prefer Army Painter but mostly because of the colours available

Another thin would be Washes which are kind of thinner colours that add a translucent layer to the model or are used for blacklining

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/

(I also prefer Army Painter over Vallejo here, but the link is more for the example pictures)

​

For a beginner, a coloured Primer and a Wash can already give good (and fast) results on models like Stormtroopers

​

The Master airbrush kit with a compressor is probably the entry level kit you'd want. The compressor with that kit is also known as the AS-186 compressor, and is quite a capable compressor.

The airbrush is probably nothing fancy, but a basic cheap airbrush is a good starter since you can learn how they work, how to maintain them, and most importantly not give a damn the first time you bend a needle.

Once you've got some practice under your belt, move up to a reputable artists airbrush since they are better made. You won't actually see much of a difference in the quality of the spray in a cheap airbrush to an expensive one, expensive ones typically have more options in components and are easier to source replacement parts for.

I moved up from a no-name ebay airbrush to an Iwata, and immediately bought the parts to change the Iwata airbrush to a 0.5mm needle instead of its stock 0.3mm.

I suggest you buy an airbrush separately from your compressor rather than looking for a kit.

A good airbrush will make your experience easier, and if taken care of may last for decades. Since you won't need to "upgrade" later when you outgrow a kit airbrush, you end up saving.

I recommend looking for a double-action airbrush from either Badger, Iwata, or Paasche. Gravity feed airbrushes are easier to clean up, but the cup can be a visual obstruction if doing fine lines and details. I use a suction-feed Badger 150 from 1973 (inherited from my father) and it's still spraying like a charm.

As for compressors, look for a model with a tank. You can get a pretty silent, tank compressor on Amazon for relatively cheap. I used to own this one. The reason a tank is preferable to tankless is that it eliminates pulsations that may come from the piston, and it also means you don't have to run the compressor non-stop; just enough to fill the tank, and it will auto-fill up when you deplete that air past a minimum threshold. These compressors also come with a moisture trap and a pressure regulator, which are necessary elements if you want to correctly use an airbrush.

First things first, how big is the armor? Is this something you'll be wearing? If so, a smaller one like this will make your life hard. They get hot really fast and they'll shut off on you. The thing about them is that they run constantly. Push the trigger, it fires up to keep up with the air demand. It can be done, but it'll take awhile. I painted a helmet with one of these and it was very frustrating.

I do suggest investing in something else. Something like this California Air Tools compressor will do you a lot more justice. The storage tank really helps. Your compressor won't turn on as much, thus leading to a much longer lifespan. I have the 6310A version and it has been going strong for about 2 years now. I have been using it for my airbrushes and my smaller spray guns. It easily powers my LPH80 mini gun when I'm painting motorcycle parts. You can usually spray for about 10-15 minutes before the motor kicks in. This is when I spray at lower psi. If you're spraying at a higher psi it'll turn on faster, but it's still not as loud as many conventional compressors. You won't need ear plugs. When it does it isn't very loud. I can turn mine on at 2am when my family is asleep and they can't hear it upstairs. Invest your money wisely as a hobbyist.

I do suggest investing in a mini gun eventually. You'll get faster coverage and more even coverage. If you have any questions feel free to message me. I had to teach myself because no one was willing to help me. I don't mind helping people out whether they have questions about materials or equipment.

To get the effect I mixed my white and blue 1:1 with THIS. Then painted it very thickly with white and dabbed blue dots into the white. Then with a ton of water I swirled as best I could, letting the pooling water do as much of the work as I could. I kind of made it up as I went...that youtube video looks like it might get overall better effects--I'm also not sure you need to use paint retarder, though it did keep it pretty thick so it didn't all just blend together. Definitely something I'd like to work with more!

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Zeny-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Filter/dp/B01M33C8MV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482100140&sr=8-2&keywords=airbrush+compressor+with+tank

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

The big issue with that compressor is that it is tankless so it is unlikely to give a good consistent flow of air. If you can I would save up a bit extra and get a compressor with a tank like this one. While it is a bit bigger it isn't that big being about the size of two 2-liter bottles staked on their side and is pretty easy to store.

I personally purchased a version of this kit a couple years back and while I have moved on to a better airbrush, I still use that same compressor.

Honestly would recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Yeah it's a more expensive airbrush but it's a fantastic piece of equipment.

Pretty much would recommend these to start you off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQKFAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: I know the topic says cheap but with airbrushes, you pay for what you get.

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

I've been using a second hand Paasche airbrush since August, and it's been working really nicely for me. I really like how easy it is to disassemble and clean. I just ordered a new Paasche H to replace the one I've got because I like the design so much, and I'd like to finally have all the parts so I can try some of the fancier techniques I see folks pulling off (like shading and fine details).

I started out hand painting (and still do it when I just want to add some minor details), and having the airbrush is really convenient. I can spray all my parts in an hour or two (depending on how many parts and how many colors) and then work on other things for the rest of the evening, instead of having to devote an entire evening (or more) just to prep and painting.

If you don't have one, you'll want a compressor too. I love this one, it's nice and quiet when it runs. I've got it under my desk sitting on top of a towel and you can barely hear it. It does need an adapter for the Paasche hose tho since of course the Master fitting is different.

If a bit of noise isn't an issue, there's also this Paasche setup with everything all in one pack . Down side is no tank, but the compressor isn't very loud.

I just use a cheap one from amazon, but it hasn't failed me yet: https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/

The ones with tanks are nice because they don't have to run constantly. That one is pretty quiet as well. On the more expensive side, people seem to like Iwata and Badger, but I don't have experience with them.

Ok so TLDR Vallejo better bang for your buck and just as good paint as other competitors. Do they provide any matte or is it all satin for Vallejo? Additionally, is the weathering wash from Vallejo the only time you'd recommend Vallejo wash over something like citadel/army painter?


https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1ABEORS65JT83&keywords=winsor+and+newton+brushes&qid=1572855562&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=winsor+and+newton+brus%2Carts-crafts%2C188&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSElGVUkyTjFKUzFKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMzNzkwMUlBVDVJMVNQMzVPWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMzOTYyMkNSSlVKV1NTV1c0OCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=#customerReviews


Would these be worthy of just a beginner set?

Im a big fan of Iwata airbrushes. the Eclipse HP-CS is a good mid range AB. More expensive than what you paid for your chinese one I'm sure. But its not super expensive, and you'll notice the quality difference right away.

I didn't mean that you're going to sand most of the gloss coat off. I just mean that you sand it enough that you don't see glossiness anywhere on the piece. The gloss coat will usually have a little bit of an uneven surface after its sprayed on. some times this uneven surface will be very pronounced, which is called orange peel, because it looks like the skin of an orange. Even if you did a really good job spraying, there will be some slight unevenness. Make a couple quick passes of sand paper and you'll see the high spots will no longer be glossy and the low spots will remain glossy. But if you keep sanding, all those high spots will be leveled off and you'll create a flat smooth surface. At that point, all the glossiness will be gone. It sounds counter-intuitive, I know. But Now that the surface is flat and smooth the polishing compound will bring the gloss back.

found this vid real quick, illustrating wet sanding and orange peel on a larger scale (a car). it wont be this pronounced on a model but it will be there. They don't show how to buff, but you do see them wet sanding. It's the same basic concept, just on small pieces.

I should also mention that if you are only wanting to do a gloss coat for proposes of applying decals and panel washes, and are just going to spray a flat clear over that, don't bother with all this. just spray it and leave it. it'll be glossy enough to do that stuff. But if you want you end finish to be super glossy, wet sanding and polishing is the way to go.

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link: http://amzn.com/B007H4YR8S

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)
http://amzn.com/B00ATJSDHE

please take into account the air compressor too. It can have a major impact on your airbrushing experiences. There are some decent starting ones like:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1543076176&sr=1-5&keywords=airbrush+compressor

I used this one for quite awhile with pretty good results but it is loud. I ended up recently buying an iwata compressor and it is super nice but they are expensive.

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing


Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.


mostly everything


-----


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

> Is it likely that inhaling the VOCs in the paint caused any damage?

Yes. There is a really damn good reason why every bottle of paint says to only use in well ventilated areas, and that's because both because inhaling VOC's, and inhaling literally anything other than air is pretty bad for your lungs.

Stop working in poorly ventilated spaces. If you can't find a better space, get a spray booth for about $100. If you absolutely, positively cannot work in a better space or get a spray booth, get a respirator with VOC cartridges. Should only cost like $20. The respirator is a last ditch effort to keep your brain and lungs intact, and is far from the ideal solution.

But it's better than inhaling VOC's all day.

The Tamiya tool set is good. You'll also need a hobby knife (the tool set might come with one.. I don't remember) and some sand paper to get rid of nub marks. I use 800 grit + sanding sticks. The markers are for cleaning up nub marks. I definitely wouldn't use them for painting entire pieces. The very thin gundam markers (GM01 etc.) are used for panel lining, and work very well. What I do is panel line a piece, wait a few seconds, and then wipe off the access marker so that you are left with a clean, thin panel line. As far as painting goes, I use an airbrush. This is the one I use. If you plan on airbrushing kits, you'll also need an air compressor. I use Tamiya's acrylic paint. You can also spray paint your models. When I used to spray paint, I used Tamiya's line of spray paints. Airbrushing gives the best results IMO.

Here is the hobby compressor that I bought and am happy with. I recommend compressor with a tank because the airflow is much more constant.

I bought a cheap Iwata Neo and used a generic airbrush that came with my first compressor before I picked up a Badger Patriot 105. From my experience cheap airbrushes are simply more prone to clogging. If the airbrush can spray water without trouble, it'll probably just be a matter of finding the right ratio in order to get paint to flow. I do recommend just throwing down for a better airbrush, specifically the 105. As far as paints for testing, I recommend just getting a small bottle of Model Air paint. They're specifically thinned for airbrushing and have finer pigment so you should be able to test with them without having to mess with thinning.

I was in the same boat as you. This is all the stuff I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067BAYNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001738DXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KS1II96/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TJA0SQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1,https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BN5RUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

I also bought an assortment of paints I thought I'd need. I went with the Vallejo Game Air line. If you look around, you'll see the stuff I bought recommended by many people for novice airbrushers.

Also, when I bought all that stuff, I signed up for the Amazon Prime credit card as well, so I ended up getting like $120 off that order. It worked out pretty well.

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

There is but it is challenging... and can get expensive. Here are some options.

• Construct one - You can make a frame out of wood, depending on the size, you can use square dowels or even 2x4’s for large ones. You can use a heavy gauge plastic drop cloth for all the sides. A cheap fan can help you vent the overspray out a window or door.
  
  
• Buy One You can buy spray booths like this one, from multiple sources such as amazon. Problem will be getting one the right size with out getting overly expensive.
  
  
  Either way the largest challenge will be dealing with overspray that will be in the exhaust from the booth.
  
  
• You need a fan that is strong enough to pull air through the fan and not allow paint out the front of the booth.
  
  
• You also don’t want to rain paint down on people or property below your vent. You can catch some of it out by using an air filter between the spray booth and exhaust fan, but the more they can catch, the more expensive filters will be.

Anyone care to provide some input on my first air brush setup? I haven't bought it yet but this is what I'm planning on purchasing:

Airbrush = Badger 105 Patriot
Compressor = Master Airbrush TC-40T
Spray Booth = Master Portable Spray Booth

Here's a few of the lingering questions I have:

• What cleaning kit would you recommend? Does the cleaner fluid matter that much?
  
• Is the TC-40T worth it over the TC-20T? Looking at it and reading the reviews on Amazon it seems like it's worth
  
• Anything else I would need that I'm missing? I'm still researching the different types of paint and everything.

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

I'll be honest and say I got a similar kit from Amazon. Compressor works great the airbrush... not so much. I ended up just buying a Iwata Revolution. If you can afford it I'd recommend this compressor as it has a storage tank and then get a better airbrush. Just my opinion though.

Looking to set up a spray area in my apartment in the near future, but first a couple of questions:

1. The area I have to work with is about 10 x 10 feet, outside of which I have things that I don't want to get any sort of paint dust on. Is it safe to assume that any overspray won't be able to make it that far as long as I have a proper spray booth?
   
   
2. Does anyone have any experience with this spray booth? I'm aware that building your own is cheaper, but I'm fine paying extra to save time as long as the pre-built option does its job well enough.

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qkttzb6V143GH. But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)


Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

I used these bottles

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQID78C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Expensive but best I’ve found

These funnels

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071CFKPRD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This flow aid

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KNPM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These mixing balls

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253780474878


Process

I added a mixing ball to the bottle, added 5 drops of flow aid into the citadel paint pot and shook

Tipped the paint into the bottle via the funnel.

Added another 5 drops to the citadel pot and again shook it.

Tipped the remaining paint to the bottle via the funnel

Advantage of this method, is that your paints get slightly thinned down


Just noticed funnels not available so these might work as well
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alohha-Stainless-Funnel-Essential-Bottles/dp/B01N6J3STP/ref=sr_1_30?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1536002027&sr=1-30&keywords=Funnels

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+station&qid=1566241870&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Hope this helps!

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!

 

Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSQHB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(inexpensive, also includes moisture trap)

​

This is the same version I use, pretty useful in a small house. I do use this spray booth to help with overspray, and I use a basic respirator for the air particles. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1YI09O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hope this helps!

Thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate it.

If I may just confirm, is the spray booth that you have and you feel it does well at grabbing all the particulate/dust?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush%C2%AE-Portable-Airbrush-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ

Thank you again, have a great day.

I use my airbrush for applying anything that I can, be that paint/stain/finish etc. Aside from saving money on paint you get much better results with a bit of practice. Smoother transitions etc etc. This is especially true with laser cut projects as I will often mask whatever it is that I am making, which allows me to spray the engraved/cut parts with an airbrush, and then remove the masking for perfect results.here is an example Basically an airbrush is GREAT in combination with a laser cutter, that said, there is a cost. I'll provide you some links to my setup.

airbrush

compressor

fume hood

masking material

Also there will be a smattering of paints/cleaners/paint thinners and airbrush cleaning supplies you'll need. So you are probably looking at $300-500 investment to get a good set up. Now clearly you can spend less on the airbrush, and if you plan on working outside, you can skip the fume hood etc etc, but just know that you won't be saving money on this right off the bat. All that said I heartily recommend getting one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_VXeK8UhVERMpw

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

Reaper has a couple of great starter kits to get you started that not only contain paints, brushes, and some minis to practice on, they come with an instructional booklet packed in a handy case. They're honestly a great starting point and their paints are just as good as Vallejo or Citadel.

https://www.reapermini.com/paints#LearnToPaintKits

Army Painter and Vallejo also sell basic color sets that are just fine to start with. Search on Amazon and pick one you can afford - or check out your FLGS.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_VccMDbHF0F90Y

If you need to buy brushes b/c you didn't get a reaper kit, 1-2 cheap sets of miniature detail brushes will be fine. You will ruin your first brushes, but nontheless look up brush care and when you've progressed you can decide if you want fancy brushes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ7MBD1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_iacMDbMBJJPAK
Get yourself some brush soap too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_0bcMDb4S2QDPN

You don't need a million paints to start. All the primary colors (you know: red, blue, yellow, white, black, etc.) will let you mix your own colors to start. Just go slow and thin your paint with droplets of water.

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

Something like this is okay to start with. If you want a better brush the Iwata Neo CN and the Badger Patriot 105 are highly recommended and are beginner friendly.

I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.

Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.

This was the set that I initially purchased. The air brushes that came with the kit are a little on the cheap side but they were good for me to learn with.

This is the spray booth that I purchased a little while ago. So far the booth has been great. I'm able to spray indoors, both rattle cans and my airbrush. You just have to change the filter every once in a while, and I think the filters are ~$10.

I recently purchased this airbrush. I havent been able to use it yet though because I need an adapter to use it with the hose for my compressor.

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

This is my setup, I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Revolution-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B000BQS3UWhttps://www.amazon.com/Paasche-D500SR-Compressor-Regulator-Moisture/dp/B000BR2HOO

Additionally, a decent airbrush that is a little cheaper.https://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4Something to keep in mind, is that the NEO is NOT made by Iwata. It's a Chinese airbrush with their name on it. But I've heard it's quite decent. Here's a video on it, and it's got a great video for learning to clean your airbrush in the description. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8YKUA2SGzU

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

I just bought one as a starting kit a few weeks ago. I bought the one with the compressor with attached air tank. So far it's worked great for me and it's eased me into airbrushing and airbrush maintenance without having to worry about spoiling it, because the airbrush itself is just 25 bucks or less. If you do buy it, before starting, make sure you apply thread seal tape on all male connectors, and also soak the little nozzle and small parts in a warm mix of dish soap and water.

Edit : here's the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Dual-Action-TC-20T-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549108384&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+airbrush+with+air+compressor&dpPl=1&dpID=41nADShdRIL&ref=plSrch

Selling - prices do not include shipping shipping will be via USPS flat rate, either small or medium (airbrush stuff probably large). Let me know if you want me to include box art and/or manual as well.

* RG Strike Freedom Wing of Skies Bandai - $20 I already tried it on for my RG SF

* RG Strike Freedom - $10 panel lined, decal'd. Parts of gold frame painted with gold

• MG Unicorn OVA ver - $40 decal'd no panel line or top coat or paint; includes a Chinese knockoff Armed Armor DE
  
  * Master Airbrush® Brand Airbrush 3 in 1 Cleaning Pot-air Brush Holder-paint/car - $5+shipping; used once with the airbrush set link
  
  * Master Airbrush® Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth - $60+shipping; used once with the airbrush set; link
  
  * Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor - $60+shipping; used once to put primer on a few parts for a car kit. link
  

I'm looking to get a spray booth for airbrushing. Amazon has a bunch of those fold-up all-in-one booths like this in the $90-$120 range. I'm wondering if anyone can vouch for their effectiveness. It just needs to do an OK job venting lacquer fumes from an airbrush, I won't be using any spray cans with it.

If those things are junk, I'm wondering if anyone has built one of those DIY plastic bin type booths, and can recommend a good, budget-priced fan to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$90, just make sure to order a hose too (only airbrush i bought that didnt come with one). You can use a cheapy air compressor till you save for a good one.

Damn good airbrush. With Flo Improver i can run ANY paint through it, GW, P3, Vallejo, doesnt matter

That is a pretty shitty airbrush.

1. It is single action which means you have to adjust the nozzle to get the spray pattern needed for the paint viscosity you have. It's OK for "I just dont want to use rattlecans"-use. But you will not get much of the benefits a proper dual action airbrush will give you. Which means you will soon grow out of it and spend money on a dual action airbrush.
   
   
2. Siphon feed airbrushes like this one also requires higher pressure to operate. Which usually isn't a deal breaker if you have a noisy shop compressor or such. It just means the compressor have to work a little more.
   
   
3. Siphon feed airbrushes are a pain to clean compared to gravity fed airbrushes. You can of course have a jar of cleaner handy and just spray it through the airbrush once done. But you'll end up with a bunch of jars of paint and jars with cleaner that you will have to switch between. Which leads us to #4
   
   
4. All those jars of paint will have its contents exposed to air, either when transferring from the original container to an airbrush jar and/or when you switch tops on the jar you connect to the airbrush. Which leads to paint drying out in the jars and constant fiddling with pressure and the needle adjustment.
   
   
5. Did I mention you'll need a jar for every single hue you want to paint? It's great if the connector screws onto your paint jars, but if you want to shoot Humbrol enamel paint and then some Tamiya you will need separate jars to store the paint. Which means more money spent on jars for an airbrush you will grow out of really quick.
   
   
6. As u/windupmonkeys wrote. It's a re-branded cheap airbrush with God knows what connections (looks like Paasche or some similar proprietary connection on the picture) and parts. Which leads down a pretty boring rabbit hole when you need to find spares or connections to compressors.
   
   For €10-15 more you can get yourself a much better airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra or the Iwata Neo.
   
   tl;dr: Buy quality, cry once.

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

I can't remember if this is the compressor I have or not, but there's a ton of clones just like it at varying price ranges. Whichever clone I've got has served me pretty well

I found a kit on amazon for around 80 bucks. It came with a compressor and three types of airbrushes.
PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8mMivZb67PArw
It's not top quality, but I've been happy with it, and it comes with a DVD that has tons of useful info for a beginner on it.

Hi there, well, for 300$ here is what you can get:
First of, the compressor, it's quiet, it's reliable, I've had one for 2 years, still kicking and it's a good deal, 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR , that is the best for the money. Now, if you want an Iwata airbrush, start off with a Neo, this is gonna be your workhorse airbrush, the one you apply basecoats and major workloads with, when you do fnd it, don't pay more than 60$ for it, Iwata Neo, and finally, for detailing jobs like highights or if you wanna get more detailed on your work, you will need a finer needle airbrush, .03 to be exact, following the Iwata series, here is the Iwata Anest, Eclipse with a .03 needle, if you buy all 3 of these, you will have less than 300$ which you cna also spend on quick release adapters for both airbrushes: Quick release x 3, the compressor does come with a hose. Hope this helps, also, might wanna think about using Vallejo and Tamiya, since they are acrylic, they are a lot more forgiving than enamels, but that is my personal opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

I have one cheap 0.2mm Sparmax SP20 and one Iwata Revolution Br (0.3mm). The cheaper one is a lot more work to clean and maintain, though I am unsure if it is a quality issue or just the smaller nozzle diameter that's causing it.

I don't have this one, but I have heard very good things about it:
http://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4

If you plan on buying one, look at the "frequently bought together" area a bit under the main image. You do want a quick-disconnect and the cleaning pot, it makes it a lot easier. You should also consider a soft, braided hose (the plastic ones are often a bit springy and can resist your movements).

Do you have a suitable compressor?

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=master+airbrush+compressor&qid=1563943691&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out spraygunner.com if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

I use these and love them, they aren't too expensive either which is great

https://smile.amazon.com/Miniature-Brushes-Detailing-Painting-Watercolor/dp/B01M7UFLP5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=26021GRETRWYH&keywords=minature+paint+brushes&qid=1567396526&s=gateway&sprefix=minature+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUdBS0k2M0VDQTRPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc2OTg2MkdBUkpSSEo0VUVPVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgwMTIxMU5ZM1pDVkpFUlNENyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=