(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best audio amplifiers

If you like the sound signature of the T0s, you'll be best keeping them and just adding a sub.

That being said, I think look for something a bit smaller than the 12" driver. You've got a pretty big gap between 4" and 12", and it might be pretty difficult to get those to blend easily.

A REL T/5i would be good. It's got an 8" driver and gets down to 32hz. It won't get down to the teens like the SVS will, but music doesn't get that low anyways.

----------------------------------------------------

I think another good option would be swapping out the speakers. Something bigger (not huge though, as you requested) will throw more bass, and if you're up close, that would be better than something at your feet throwing bass. When you have a pair of smaller speakers rolled off into a bigger sub, you miss a lot in the mids/lows. For example, male singers won't sound as full and as real with a 4" woofer crossed over to a 12" sub as they will with a 5 1/4" woofer, at least in my experience.

So, since you'll be just listening to music and playing some games, I think it would be worth sacrificing the really deep extension of a sub for a better midrange. And besides, you can always add a sub later if you need to.

With that being said, I've got a few options for you.

The first is Ascend Acoustic Sierras. They are an extremely full and warm sounding speaker. They do a fantastic job reproducing stuff like vocals, bass guitar, drums, and anything in the midrange. They are really good speakers.

My next pick would be Wharfedale Reva 2. I haven't heard these, but I have heard the Reva 3, which is just the tower version of these. Once again, they are a very good speaker. The reason I like these so much for desk use is because they are bottom ported. That means that putting them really close to the wall isn't going to boost the bass a bunch, which might happen with the Sierras. Also, these retail at $1000. Wharfedale is coming out with a new line of stuff, so these ones are super cheap now.

Some of my favorite desktop speakers are KEF speakers. The Uni-Q driver is absolutely fantastic. The imaging is stunning. Vocals sound so real. There is so much detail and accuracy. They really blow me away. However, they aren't like your Vanatoos. These will be a bit sharper, which some people don't like. I have KEF on my desk.

Monitor Audio Bronze could be good. Unfortunately I haven't heard them. However, everyone that has them seems to absolutely love them. I included them because, once again, front port.

Now, these speakers are going to be out of your budget, probably. But I thought I'd include them, because they are some of my favorite speakers. Quad S-2. They have a very warm and sweet midrange, but the ribbon tweeter makes them also sound very transparent, detailed, and clear. Really some of my favorite speakers out there. They're out of your budget of $1000 once you add in an amplifier, but I thought I would just throw them in just because.

Alright, you'll need an amp.

This Yamaha would be good, but it does take up quite a bit of space.

The NAD D3020 would be a very good option if you have limited space, or just want a small amp. I have one and I like it a lot. Plenty of power, especially for a desktop use. And it has a subwoofer out, for if you decide to add one in the future.

--------------------------------------

Let me know what you think, and if you have any questions.

The thing here is; you're going to need 2 different preamps if you want to do phono and everything else.

For the phono pre, the aforementioned Yaqin MS23B is a good start. It's not a "pure" tube pre though, as it uses a transistor based gain. There's a very popular, but not exactly cheap, mod out there that introduces another tube for gain. I looked into it, but at the time the cost and time involved lead me to another preamp; The Little Bear T11. Very extensive community following online. It needs at least one very easy mod to live up to it's potential, but it's got a solid foundation as it's basically the same circuit as the very well reviewed EAR 834P phono pre. About the same investment as the Yaqin pre mod. As with all Chinese tube stuff, figure on between $40-$100 to replace tubes from the shit stock ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Little-Turntable-Preamplifier-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B06XCM9NKV

As for the non-phono pre, I'd look at the Nobsound Marantz 7 "inspired" completed preamps, or kits, off eBay or Amazon. I like this one, but they can be had for about $70 less if you want a more vintage look and no Amazon CS;

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-01P-Preamp-Preamplifier-ALPS27/dp/B00LUCZLZQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Douk-Audio-12AX7-Vacuum-Tube-Preamp-HiFi-Stereo-Silver-Pre-amplifier-Marantz-M7/272950496854?epid=27010206919&hash=item3f8d1e0e56:g:7CQAAOSwY0xbcpHu

As far as tubes, it really depends on the pre as to what you want. The Yaqin does well with 2 Gold Lion 12AX7's for about $30-$40 each, (which is high, but they are very good in that circuit). The T11 likes combos. It doesn't need a matched trio, so you can experiment with all sorts of tubes in all sorts of positions. I'm currently running a Gold Lion in V1, an RCA clear top NOS in V2, and a Mullard new production 12AT7 in V3 because I like the lower gain from the AT7's.

Lots of info to digest I'm sure. But I hope you find what you are looking for!

Edit; and yes the FX Audio, or the Dilvpoetry, (same unit different branding), are a great intro to the tube sound, but do NEED the GE JAN 5654 tubes, preferably from Riverstone Audio on Amazon. I found a pair of NOS Tung Sol's dated from 1945 that have an amazing tone, but lose a little on the top end compared to the 5654's.

Another option is the Little Dot series. I'm running the Mk2 as a pre for my digital chain. I replaced the driver tubes with the aforementioned Tung Sols, but it will also happily take the 5654's. And it is a "pure" tube preamplifier/headphone amp, as the power is also supplied through tubes. Very well reviewed and probably the only pre in that particular price range.

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538980636&sr=1-1&keywords=little+dot+mk2+mkii

Edit; I lied! You can get an RIAA inverter! Just run any normal line level source through it and the phono stage sees it as either a MM or MC cart!

To start off with, here are a few things to read to get you started:

• The Vinyl Guide
  
• The Cheap Setup Thread
  
  Basically you don't want a turntable that has anything built in like speakers or a pre-amp. These are added at the expense of quality components. You will need an amp, and possibly a pre-amp if the amp you get does not have a phono input on it already. When buying a turntable, you might as well get something nice, because the upgrade itch comes hard and fast. If you already have speakers, I would recommend just using those for now. Remember though, speakers are probably the most important part of your sound chain. I would recommend keeping an eye on craigslist for something awesome. No rush, but pounce if you happen on a deal.
  
  As to what amps do. Turntables output at a very low volume. The pre-amp boosts the volume and equalizes the sound to a "line-in" level. Basically, the same output that a CD player would do. After that, you need to boost the volume to a listenable level. This is what a regular amplifier does. In order of importance, a good pre-amp can work wonders. As for regular amps, they are one of the least important parts of your signal chain as long as it isn't absolute shit and can drive your speakers. They are just boosting volume.
  
  For maintenance, there isn't too much once you get it set up and playing. Change the stylus when needed is pretty much it. Maybe the occasional lubrication once every year or two, but I've been fine so far. The only maintenance I could really think of you having to do would possibly be to spray some Deoxit if something isn't working quite like it should, but that isn't a problem. A quick search will get you taken care of there.
  
  In Myrtle Beach, this Toshiba might not be too bad, especially if you could get it for $65 instead of $75.
  
  Back home, this Pioneer PL-4 would be a nice buy as well for around $50. It also doesn't say Technics in the listing, but here is a Technics SL-1950 for $100.
  
  Considering everything works as it should, I would get the Technics SL-1950. It has more documentation on the internet, and a much better chance of help from people familiar with Technics if you have any questions. See if you can haggle to around $85-$90, but it is still probably worth the $100 if they won't budge. Note that any used turntable you buy should probably have the needle replaced as well.
  
  As for an amp and receiver, I would recommend getting something from the 70's with a silver face by Japanese companies that you have heard the names of before. Marantz, Yamaha, JVC, Pioneer, Sansui, Kenwood, etc. all made some excellent receivers. Here are a few examples of the look I am talking about. These will last a lifetime and will rock most anything you put into them. Unfortunately, with your budget and location I didn't see anything that will fit the bill.
  
  Until then, I recommend you rock something like this pre-amp for $15, and this amp for $36. Start saving and then cruise craigslist, flea markets, and antique malls for one of those vintage beasts.
  
  Holy shit, I just realized I sent a wall of text your way. I think that will get you headed in the right direction though.
  
  tl;dr: This turntable, this pre-amp, and this amp, is right at $150, and possibly less depending on your negotiating skills. Use the speakers you have for now. Buy a new needle for whatever deck you get.

Here are some thoughts.

• The BS22 are great speakers that folks still love. At the price that you got them you did good.
  
  
• You can totally paint them but you'll want to take your time if you want them to come out nice. Check out some videos on the Tube I'm sure there's something out there.
  
  
• You say that you're budget is around $50 for an amp. You can run those on a desk with a budget amp but really you'll want something nicer if you want to get the most out of them. If you can push that budget I would recommend the SMSL SA50 Plus. I know it's more but it bring more to the table too. The remote, tone control, and built in DAC are notable.
  
  
• If you're using them on desk make sure you give them some space on the backside for the port to breath and give you the best bass possible. Those speakers can do pretty well on the low end if you feed them some good power.

Amp

NAD 3020 V2 ($399) has:

• Phono pre-amp
  
• Optical-in for your movies
  
• Subwoofer out
  
  Turntable
  
  U-Turn Audio ($309) have gotten good reviews from the few people I know that have picked one up. They look nice and do their job.
  
  Speakers
  
  This is way trickier and way more personal, I personally have had very good luck with used gear from Swans, Canton, Mirage, Chario and JBL that I would have never been able to afford new and have been very happy with. The only speakers I've gotten brand new recently were the Elac B6 and I enjoyed them too.
  
  Some options with the rest of your budget ~$500
  
  Wharfedale Denton 80th (~$500) Absolutely beautiful, review well, I only had a brief listen in person so can't entirely vouch but I liked what I heard
  
  Elac UB5 (~$400) Very nice bookshelf, the concentric set up for the mid range and tweeter is nice and slick and fits a 3 way design into a bookshelf footprint nicely.
  
  Monitor Audio Bronze 2 (~$500) Again, lovely design, enjoyed them when I auditioned them but ended up going with some used Cantons that time.

These are powered speakers with USB inputs - $350/Pr Retail -

https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-15pm-powered-monitors

How important is USB to you? That's a nice feature, but only if you need it.

I think these might be the latest version (R-51PM - $500/pr) -

https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-51pm-powered-speakers

If there is a replacement model that means there are probably very good deals on the Older Version.

These are 5" speaker, and to make a determination, you have to consider what else you can get for a similar price.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR305MK2--jbl-305p-mkii-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR524--mackie-mr524-5-inch-powered-studio-monitor

Edifier S2000-Pro, DAC, Remote Control, Bluetooth 4.0, etc... - £399/pr -

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-S2000pro-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0725GZQFZ/

https://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/s2000pro-bookshelf-speakers-studio-monitors

There is nothing wrong with the Edifier, assuming they do what you need done.

The one advantage the Klipsch do have is that they have a USB input for direct connect to a computer. That is probably the feature that is the deciding factor. However, if you computer has an Optical or Coaxial Output, then something like the Edifiers 2000 might be a good choice.

Or, if you are not connecting to a computer, then USB becomes less valuable. In the case, the Edifier with Optical/Coaxial/AUX and Bluetooth is a better choice, simply because it has a Remote Control.

The various Mackie and JBL in 5", 6.5", and 8" could be a good choice as they are highly rated and are less money, but they would require you to buy a USB DAC. Though these can be had in the range of $100.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_703DGNFLYB/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-v1-5.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_772D3DAC/Audioengine-D3.html?tp=59309

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

https://www.amazon.com/Q1-Mark-II-Native-Amplifier/dp/B0757MH46M/

https://www.amazon.com/CREATIVE-LABS-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/

Some of these are USB DACs and Headphone Amps.

The JBL 306 and the Mackie MR624 are both 6.5" speakers, which are TWICE as big as a 5" bass driver. They are about $200 each, which with a DAC would run in the neighborhood of $500/set.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/LSR306MK2--jbl-306p-mkii-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MR624--mackie-mr624-6.5-inch-powered-studio-monitor

You can check reviews on line and you will find nothing but positive for both the JBL and the Mackie MR Series.

All that said, nothing wrong with the Klipsch, just make sure they do what you want, suit your application, and fit your budget.

Just a range of possibilities

Ohhh, a newbie! This will be fun... 🙃

A standard record player/turntable (you can use them interchangeably) will output using stereo RCA. The signal needs to go through a Phono Preamp first. Some turntables have a preamp built-in, most do not (especially as you move up the quality scale).

Then you need an amplifier to power the speakers you get. Some speakers can be plugged directly into a “line-level” jack (think headphone port). Others need an amplifier. You can get a cheap one on Amazon like this, or a nicer one like this, or you could try your local thrift store; stereo amps don’t have to be particularly new, so it’s often easy to score one for cheap.

As for the actual record player, [Rega] and Pro-Ject are the two big brands, as well as U-Turn and the every level. What I would call the first fully “proper” turntable starts at around $400. A U-Turn Orbit can be had for around $200. You can get a black plastic Sony or AudioTechnica on Amazon for $100, but I would advise against it.

The tables you’ll want to look for are the Rega Planar 1 (or “P1”), the Pro-Ject Debut/Debut Carbon, or the U-Turn Orbit. Don’t buy from Amazon. Best Buy/Magnolia is a good source, as is your local Hi-Fi dealer (assuming you have one).

I’ve owned the Pro-Ject Debut Carbon and the Regs P3, and liked them both. Please feel free to ask my anything, or PM me. I’m happy to help in any way that I can!

The headphone output of the Topping MX3 and the SMSL AD18 is not good so you will want to add a separate headphone amp to power good headphones such as your AT- AD1000X.

Other better options:

Option1: DAC and headphone amp combo with separate power amp. Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier and DAC $79 plus:

• Dayton Audio APA150 150W Power Amplifier $135. This adds better class A/B power, same as in a full size receiver but in a narrow compact form factor. This will be great for the Pioneers.
  
• Or a digital T/D amp like MX3 and AD18 but without the DAC since the headphone amp has it. Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amp $79 or SMSL SA50 $67 besides many other mini amps.
  
  Option 2: DAC and speaker amp combo with separate headphone amp. Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, USB and Optical S/PDIF $99 plus:
  
  
• Headphone amps: Schiit Magni $99. JDS Atam $99. Liquid Spark $109. Pro-Ject Head Box S2 $129. JDS Labs Objective2 $129. Musical Fidelity LX2 $199.
  
• Or a Hybrid tube headphone amp: Schiit Vali $149.
  
• Or a Tube headphone amp: Little Dot Mk2 $145. A real tube amp, the issue is you get cheap tubes. So think about upgrading them sooner than later.
  
  Option 3: Keep the Fio DAC, add the Dayton Audio APA150, Micca OriGain or SMSL SA50 amps.
  
  
• Add Schiit Magni $99 headphone amp and Schiit Sys $49 2 input switch.
  
• Or any other headphone amp and a Nobsound Little Bear MC1022 Mini 2(1)-in-1(2)-Out RCA Stereo Audio Switch $24.
  
  Also see r/HeadphoneAdvice. Sources: [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ SEPARATE DAC & AMP & TUBE-AMP
  
  For a full size class A/B receiver option:
  
  Instead of buying a mini amp, I already had a stereo receiver and an AV receiver I found for free and many can be purchased used for under $50. I keep it on a small 18" ikea like end table either under or off to the side of my desk.
  
  Speaker Wire:
  
  Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 50 ft, with self adjusting wire strippers or 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow. Optionally add banana plugs. Sets with banana plugs, Crutchfield or custom DFWCableConnection and Blue Jeans Cable.
  
  Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • r/BudgetAudiophile
  
  Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound and Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
  
  For desktop speakers: Pitch-perfect Placement: How to Set Up Your Desktop Speakers and Get Those Speakers Off Your Desktop/Shelf.
  
  Room Listening Speaker Stands: Size to get speaker center or tweeter at ear height from your seated listening position. Affordable Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass. Sturdy Monolith by Monoprice can be filled with lead shot, sand or kitty litter. Also Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon.

I just purchased speakers for my computer desktop last week, and researched extensively. What I learned was that many of the popular recommendations are physically too large for my considerations. The popular Elac speakers for example look fairly ridiculous to me when placed next to a computer monitor. I was looking for smaller.

I ended up buying Vanatoo Transparent Zeros for $360 (exactly $360 -- no tax and free shipping). They are powered, and have all the necessary inputs to connect directly from a computer via USB, optical, or RCA. They also support Bluetooth with aptX, which is convenient when I want to play music from my phone. The sound quality is great thanks to its 1" tweeter and 4" woofer, which at this price point or under is typically smaller among its competition. It has precise hitting bass from its passive radiator design, another feature that you rarely see at this price point. Finally, they are pretty small compared to the majority of speakers at 4.75″W x 7.5″H x 7.75″D.

A text review of T0.

A video review.

To answer your questions:

• The benefits of a powered speaker are saving desk space because you won't need a separate amp, and less wires. The disadvantage is the flexibility of upgrading in the future -- if you had an amp and speakers, you could upgrade to better speakers in the future and continue using that amp.
  
  
• Bluetooth does have a small hit on sound quality. A technology called aptX has better sound quality with Bluetooth, and some Android phones have this feature.
  
  If I were to get a passive speakers, my budget amp of choice would be the SMSL AD18 for $145, which is a much smaller footprint than the commonly recommended Denon S530BT or S540BT, which at 17" wide and 13" deep, is more fitting for a home theater setup than my desktop.

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC

A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP

An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

I had this issue previously and; I play Xbox on my secondary monitor and watch Netflix on my main monitor thru PC, or i also play WoW casually, or whatever. but same deal, Xbox and PC both playing sound at same time into my headphones. I found a really cheap solution if you can add a card to your computer, or a slightly more expensive option if you can't do that, or want an all in one solution.
 
you have to buy commercial/prosumer audio mixer equipment to do this, or so I thought. you need multiple inputs, and lots of DACs have that, but none can mix signals. I finally found the Sound Blaster Recon 3D PCIe card, and its replacement the Sound Blaster Z PCIe cards.
 
They are old and starting to dwindle in supply, but I found THIS ONE for ~30$. Its a sound card you add to your computer and it replaces the built in sound. This one is special because it has an optical INPUT, which is not done in any other product that i have found. The software is able to mix the Optical Input sound with the native PC sound, and push it to the speakers/headphone connection OOORRRR.... right back through the optical OUTPUT!
 
So here is my setup. Xbox optical out -> Recon3D Optical In. Sound mixes with PC, then combined sound Optical Out -> DAC of choice. I also put an optical splitter after the PC out, one cable goes to my SMSL Q5 for speakers, and the other goes to my DAC X6 for headphones.
 
Don't want to deal with buying used PC stuff on ebay and installing to your computer? Don't have an open expansion slot? Don't have a DAC/AMP to use after? then buy THIS!
 
The Sound Blaster X7. its a DAC, Speaker Amp, Headphone Amp, all in one. It has optical in, Analog in, and USB in. It also has bluetooth and USB Host for connecting mobile devices. and it can mix them all at the same time and output together to passive or active speakers, headphones, or back out through optical to an AV receiver.
 
EDIT: HERE is the manual for the Sound Blaster X7 if you want to look at it in more detail before considering buying. I don't have one myself because the Recon3D is working fine, but i strongly considered it.

[Reposting from /r/headphones on a commenter's suggestion]

Budget: $200-300 USD.

Source: Two computers, both with USB or optical capability.

Desired product: DAC/Headphone Amp w/optional speaker amp

Currently I have a desktop and a laptop that I switch between. I have a pair of passive Paradigm Atom V.7's and some 595-modded Sennheiser HD555's. I'm planning on adding a subwoofer in the near future.

I'm on a quest to find a desktop audio solution that will do all of the following:

• Support 2 computers, through any combo of Analog/SPIDF/Optical/USB.
  
• Provide a headphone output.
  
• Provide a line level output or a subwoofer output.
  
• Offer an headphone toggle so output can be routed to either the line outs or the headphone.
  
  
• [Optional] Act as a speaker amplifier in the 15+ watt range. I'll also take suggestions for inexpensive amps, but I'll likely get an inexpensive T-Amp.
  
  I've used the Topping VX1 and Topping TP41. They got me used to the headphone toggle and since I work from home and have lots of meetings I've grown to love it. However neither unit really fits my future plans.
  
  I really really like the Teac A-H01 but it doesn't have a headphone toggle switch, just an auto-mute on plug-in.
  
  So far I've found the Audinst MX2 (currently on eBay for ~$230) which covers pretty much all my bases. I'd just have to add a speaker amp and route the line output through the subwoofer first.
  
  There's also the Audio Gd NFB.11.32 but at $350 I'd rather get the Audinst.
  
  I'm also not opposed to going the component route. Part of me is considering a mostly Schiit stack with a DAC -> Sys Switch -> Headphone Amp or Speaker Amp. The downside there is cost.
  
  Anyway, I'd love to hear suggestions or input. Thanks!

I inherited some B&W 1800 speakers a few months ago and previously asked what I would need to actually make them play music. I was told that these speakers are passive and that they thereby need an active amplifier to make them work. I wanted to sound this off to make sure I've got this right.

The impedance of the 1800s is 8Ω, and the wattage recommended is between 30W and 200W. The most important part of this is getting an amp that can handle 8Ω, because the wattage is a product of the frequency of the tone being played. What matters is keeping the ranges of the two parts (passive speaker and amplifier) in line.

Consequently, the NAD D3020 would be compatible with my speakers because it has a continuous output of 40W (which is between 30-200W) at 8Ω. Do I have this right? I'm probably looking to be a bit cheaper than the NAD D3020 (either that or I'll be saving up for a while), but I want to make sure that I've got the right idea as to what I'm looking at while I shop.

Thank you for any advice or clarification you can offer. If you have any product recommendations (I can afford to drop $200 now but would love to drop ~$150: if I save up for a few months I'd be able to spend ~$400 max) I'd love to hear those too.

Hi there Im new to the whole audiophile scene and I have to say I LOVE IT! I just got my first pair of cans the Phillips shp 9500S and Ive got to say even though there a pair of budget cans they're so much better than anything ive listen to! I love to sound stage the separation in the instruments they present and the mids only the lows are what seem kinda recessed for my linking hence is why i opened this post. Im currently on the fence with a pair of Berdynamics DT990 PRO 250 OHMS

https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Headphones/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492977756&sr=8-1&keywords=beyerdynamics+dt990

Ive seen some reviews on youtube and on RTINGS.com and it seems like they have good bass and really high highs but some say they're too high :( . I listen to music off my laptop using Spotify Premium or TIDAL HiFi and I also use them to play on console. I dont have any dacs or amps yet because im still deciding if i should go with a DAC and AMP combo(MODI 2 UBER and MAGNI 2 UBER) from SCHIIT or get the gamer oriented Soundblaster x7. Anythoughts on which would be the best solution for using on consoles and PC ?

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1492977968&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=sound+blaster+x7

http://schiit.com/products/modi-2

Please help! I have both PS4 and xbox one S as well as a pair of Logitech z506 speakers that i would connect to the dac/amps either through RCA or RCA center/sub/rear on the soundblaster.

Oh ok, I looked through the manual but it's very sparse with any info.

Sounds like it does have inputs you can use, do they look like this? If they do you just need a basic 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your phone to the system.

>so could you tell me how to use those speakers to work for my phone/laptop? Using an amplifier like you mentioned?

If you don't want to use the main sony unit, yeah you could buy an amplifier and connect the speakers to that instead.

Something like this for a cheaper one that you'd connect with a cable to your phone, or if you wanted a nicer one with bluetooth this would be a good option.

Pretty sure these are what I got and I'll be honest this was grandparents of SO doing an awesome favour/present so priority was set to affordability and not quality. I can't promise these are great.

https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Home-PDMN38-3-5-Inch-Reflex-Mini-Monitor/dp/B0007L8AJA/ref=sr_1_372?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480204720&sr=1-372&keywords=pyle-home

With this for an amp
https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Class-T-Amplifier-Adapter-PFA200/dp/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=sr_1_381?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480204720&sr=1-381&keywords=pyle-home

Definitely needs a sub if you want real bass but from what I've experienced they are clear and have good volume I'm listening to em right now.

edit: i guess thats amazon.ca by the way and those monitors were going for eighty last year and the grandparents might have gotten free shipping through amazon premium come to think of it sorry

Bookshelf speakers will work better when you are at your computer, as tower speakers will be sitting too low to sound right up close. Given that you are on the main floor of a house, it will be easy to get ample bass.

I would go with a medium sized pair of bookshelf speakers, and a stereo power amp rated around 50 watts. You can get very surprising bass with a setup like that, as long as you have a decent quality amp.

Possible speakers
Possible amp

If you want to spend a little more time and energy, I would strongly recommend you to buy used equipment. The place to do this is www.audiogon.com. You will get much more for your money there, and power amplifiers and speakers are pretty safe to buy used. Personally, I buy almost all of my gear used. If you need help selecting used gear, shoot me a message, and I will tell you if you are getting a good deal.

Hey guys!
My girlfriend is a music lover and her birthday is coming up so I wanted to surprise her with a new turntable. Her old Crosley turntable crapped out recently after only on year of use.

I am a complete newbie when it comes to this kind of stuff, but after doing a bit of research these are the items I have decided on.

Audio Technica At-LP60BK Turntable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008872SIO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS&psc=1


The main issue I am having is picking an amplifier. It seems that I would need one in order to properly connect the turntable and speakers. These are the two I am looking at now, but I'm not sure if they are compatible with my set up or will have enough power. Any recommendations on which one I should pick? My budget is pretty tight.

Seeduck Lepy Mini Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1MZW54YOZT6K2&psc=1

Pyle Home Mini Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I would appreciate any help, thank you :)

Speakers: Edifier R1280DB.

Go with 2.0 bookshelf speakers, not 2.1 computer speakers. These have Bluetooth, optical, and coax. Oh, and they sound amazing.

Headphones are tricker. Will you also be using them with a console or a phone at any point? Want to keep them on while running to get a cup of tea or take a leak? Do you play FPS's?

You have few different options:

Convenience be damned you want awesome audio quality above all else.

• Get a DAC. Sennheiser GSX 1000. Modern, slick gaming features, solid DAC. Little Dot MKII. Because toooobs.
  
  
• Open back headphones. There are a million suggestions at dozens of different price points. I recommend prioritizing comfort, spatial positioning, and a warm sound that won't cause listening fatigue.
  
  
• Modular attachable boom mic. Antlion Audio ModMic 5 or Minimic. Don't underestimate these mics. They sound amazing, you have little-to-no background noise, don't need any additional acoustic treatment, and you don't have to worry about boom arms and the like.
  
  
• Blue Yeti. You just couldn't imagine not having a huge mic like you see streamers using. It's the defacto go-to mic for a reason. Keep in mind everyone will hear your mouse and keyboard and that guy diving by and your dog sneezing and...
  
  Wireless PC and PS4.
  
  
• SteelSeries Arctis 7. Wireless for PC and PS4, wired for Xbox (blame Microsoft).
  
  
  
  
  
  Gaming headphones.
  
  
• Wired. HyperX Cloud Alpha or HyperX II
  
  
• Wireless. Corsair Void
  

the Lepy amp or the Kinter will Drive them. Supposed to be 20RMSx2 so a 40 or 50 x2 amp........I'd buy an amp that comes with power supply to make it easy. You'll have Better Highs than the Bose, maybe less Bass but more Balanced Overall.

3.5mm to rca cable to hook to PC........

Need 1 - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref

Banana Plug speaker wire makes it Easier to hook speakers to amp - just plug in like rcas But Not necessary

Need 2 - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speaker-Cable-Gold-Plated-Banana/dp/B07FKJDTPY/ref

​

I run Micca MB42Xs on Desktop with a Topping MX3 Dac/headphone amp/amp combo with Bluetooth. Room is 14x18' and Open to Kitchen on One side with a bar separating them. Fills Room(s) Pretty Well.

Recorded on Iphone so does Not convey the Sound Quality.........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjg7uIg11_Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6pYIp7OUGY

other amps:

https://www.amazon.com/%E3%80%90Update%E3%80%91-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Audio/dp/B07DPKSKVQ/ref (Bluetooth)

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref

this One has Bluetooth and supposed to be Clean. My Choice if not a Topping MX3.........

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Bluetooth-Adjustment-Amplifiers/dp/B07Q2XC7K3/ref=

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAN8IKXcFtQ&t=828s

​

MB42X + SMSL SA100 amp+ 3.5mm to Rca cable+ 2 Amazon Basics Banana Plug Speaker wires = $173.69 plus tax

As others have said it makes a huge difference. I love feeling the subtle details as well like engine RPM and gear shifts in my back. It really pulls you in.

Get a butt kicker setup if you don’t like to DIY. Otherwise a cheap setup can be pieced together easily:

Shaker:
Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDDPJTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Irj5BbKDNWGTP

Amp:
ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dsj5Bb3JGVQ77

Wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gtj5Bb7QK1K9K

Free Software:
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/simhub-diy-sim-racing-dash.10252/

I found the NAD D3020 to be practically perfect for my desktop system when I had passive speakers, though I didn't have a record player in that setup. The new version (V2) now includes a phono input, but it lost its USB input. It still has optical and coaxial digital inputs, so if your computer has those outputs (which it almost certainly must?), V2 is the way to go.

Or if your record player has a built-in preamp and you'd rather have something that bypasses your PC's audio hardware entirely via USB, V1 would fit the bill. I can tell you from experience that it's a pretty excellent little device, with great sound in a tiny package.

Hi Seamao,

I have a lot of experience with Hi Fi amps and a lot of amps that you are looking at in your price range. That tripath amp is extremely good not only for that price but in general. Here are only some of the other amps I have bought, kept or sold and reviewed over the years:

Nad 356 Bee ($700),
Hegel 100,
Hegel 300 ($4800),
Exposure 2010 s2
Exposure 3010 s2 ($2800),
Rega Brio integrated,
Rouge Audio Sphinx ($1200),
PS audio sprout,
Marantz PM8006,
Nad 3020,
Nad D750,
Job 225 ($1400),
Job Integrated ($1900)

The tripath amp that I linked has heft and weight to the bass, fantastic imaging and speed, and a very warm sounding tonal signature. I wouldn’t be over concerned about the watts, I had the 15 watt version of this amp actually driving a pair of Fritz Rev 5 speakers (87 dB sensitivity, $2300) and it sounded loud, lush and wonderful.....but if you are dead set on believing you need at least 50 - 100 a another good alternative is:

SMSL SA100 Stereo Audio Amplifier TPA3116D2 50W x 50W 2 Channel Treble Bass Adjust.

Outside of the Tripath chip and (hypex) look for a digital amp that has the TPA3116d2 or TPA3118 chip. The SMSL SA100 and Tripath amp that I previously listed are probably 2 of the best digital amps you will find under $500

FYI my favorite 3 amps are

1. Exposure 3010 s2
   
2. Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 (I have bought 3 of these because the TA2020 chip is almost extinct)
   
3. Hegal 300

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

Yeah, those KEF's are way out of my price limit, but thanks anyway. The thing is, local shops have much reduced offer - many speakers, that one can get on e.g. Amazon.de, are not available here. And I will probably buy something from Amazon, because they offer best prices and have enormous offer.

If I am to buy passive speakers, I could spend around 100€ on them, and around 50€ for an amp. I was already looking at Q Acoustics 2010I, as scannerJoe recommended. But, as I am complete noob in terms of amps, could you please point me to some not-complete-shit amp in the 50-100€ price range that would go along with those speakers? I was looking at SMSL and [Nobsound] (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B017K9VU02/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2M8DEO6BEJ1QF) - what do you say?

I'm a totally new to this, and I need some help!

I have two speakers that came with this RCA stereo I got for Christmas forever ago. I've been using the speakers along with the middle part for TV speakers (using the headphones output jack, and a L/R audio input), but I want to replace it with just an amplifier. I'm not sure what my best decision is.

The speakers are:
Impedance 6Ω
Rated Power 40W

After trying to figure everything out, I thought that this Pyle 2x40W is what I would want, but the reviews are very mixed and I'm not sure I want to waste my money on it.

I thought that I would sacrifice the max output and settle with this Lepai 2x20w that has really good reviews.

Is this a good choice? Is there a good 2x40w amp that I missed?
Some help would be greatly appreciated!

A different strategy would be to get an additional set of 8 ohm speakers and wire them in parallel so that you are running 4 ohms on each side. Just use a 12 volt (high amp) power supply. It seems counter-intuitive that Hifiberry is recommending lower voltage for lower ohms. I think they don't want it to overheat or something.

​

I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MGQAH2M - I got mine for $85, but you can still get them for around $100.

​

They are fairly efficient too.

​

The idea here is to have speakers near each of your listening positions. There may be a font-back balance issue - but I am guessing that wiring a pot on each side could solve that. Left/right you fix via DSP (like volume too).

​

Question: once (and if) the Hifiberry amp dies, how are you going to get audio out of your Raspberry? Do you have a headphone jack or preouts somewhere already? There's a better way to do this if you have those, BTW.

​

If you just want a beater amp that will likely never die - get this - I have one and it seems pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H/

How about a more desktop friendly amplifier? All listed now are pretty big, chunky things.

Like the Teac AH01, Audioengine N22 or the Nad D3020.
Or maybe even the Creative Soundblaster X7.

I currently use an Audioengine N22 along with a cheap DAC, and it works great. However, the Creative X7 seems to be a really interesting all in one solution....and significantly more of a hi-fi product than their usual products.

Note that some Creative products sold on Amazon "Sold by Creative Labs, Inc. and Fulfilled by Amazon" are also price matched to the Black Friday deals. Also, late Black Friday sales posting :D

 

Amazing deal on the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers, which I found good reviews on (at full price):

E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers (Creative/Amazon) - $99.99 ($269.99 - 170, 63% off)


 

Also the X7 USB DAC/Amp (which I've been eyeing for some time) and bundles with the E-MU XM7 Bookshelf Speakers:

Sound Blaster X7 (Creative/Amazon) - $299.99 ($399.99 - 100, 25% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition (Creative/Amazon) - $349.99 ($499.99 - 150, 30% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $379.98 ($669.98 - 290, 43% off)

Sound Blaster X7 Limited Edition Home Entertainment System (Creative) - $429.98 ($769.98 - 340, 44% off)

No you do not need a pro amp. These speakers are extremely efficient. You could get away with a pretty cheap amp if you want. Nicer ones I might suggest are:

Behringer A500(a metric shitload of power)

Dayton APA150

Or the most reasonable: Audiosource Amp 100

Any of these amplifiers will do. And any of them can drive those speakers to impressive and damaging levels of sound.

Please be careful of your hearing and beyond that, be mindful of your neighbors. Then enjoy yourself, those speakers will be very capable of hosting parties.

You could try something like a switch. 3.5m M to M cable to the input spot, headphone on A, 3.5m to RCA y adapter from B to your speaker amp. There are some cheap ones, but almost all of them (including this one) have at least a couple bad reviews saying you add noticeable noise. Doesn't control volume, so this gets a little awkward (control volume of headphones in Windows, but control volume of speakers on the amp). This also doesn't handle the mic, so that would still have to plug into the back.

Something like this would increase quality and make volume control easier. It's a separate DAC/headphone amp, along with a preamp that would go out to your speaker amp (again using a 3.5mm to RCA y adapter). Connecting the mic separately to the back of the computer would still be awkward. As you mention, there are separate AMPs that would have similar functionality, but most aren't necessarily cheaper than this.

There are also combo DAC / headphone / speaker amps. Something like this. Not any cheaper, though, and still doesn't have a spot for your mic. Benefit here is only needing one device for both headphone and speaker.

Creative makes a complete solution, but it's crazy expensive. I would honestly buy a USB desktop microphone rather than spend this much.

Two speakers and an amplifier

my recommendation is these speakers and this amplifier.

i like this combo better than the "proposed systems" in the thread header because the speakers are better and play lower than the micca, and the whole setup is more flexible than the JBL. you could hook your computer up to the amp via a 3.5mm to 3.5mm trs cable to the front port and use the back ports for a bluetooth dongle like this to stream from a phone. the dta has a pretty good headphone amp as well if you get some nice headphones.

Is the little silver box under the TV this thing? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HERNVQQ/

If so, how do you like it? Nice sturdy build quality, everything plugs in snugly, satisfying to turn volume knob? Sounds decent?

I ask because I'm thinking of getting a friend a cheap dac/preamp for the active monitors on his desk and this box is like $65, and I'm used to being a dumb audiphile buying much more expensive stuff so I was wondering if it was too good to be true.

There are no compact amps for under 150 that will be enough better than an SA-60 that it would be worth upgrading to. There are few options in that price range.

Here are the basic options....

https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-2&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Mini-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00GOK38OU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-7&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/Grace-Digital-GDI-BTAR512N-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B013UCJFSW/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813075&sr=1-12&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

https://www.amazon.com/D802-192KHz-Digital-Remote-Amplifier/dp/B00WU6JU9Y/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495813229&sr=1-34&keywords=mini+amplifier&refinements=p_36%3A7500-15000

As well as the already stated Q5 Pro and AD18. Are some of these better than an SA-50, for sure. I just dont think thyere enough better than your SA-50 or a full size receiver/AVR/integrated amp or a higher priced mini amp. I would wait and save money for something better if you cant go bigger.

Thanks for all the great info!

Any thoughts on the SMSL Mini 5 for a combined power and headphone amp? http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Digital-Amplifier-Built-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B00LRK9VRU

I like having just one box on my desk that I can control volume from and plug my headphones into, but all the others I've seen with that were only 25WPC. This one gives that advantage, plus the power of the SA50. Would be great if it had an integrated DAC too, but I have yet to find a 50+WPC amp with DAC and headphone jack. But for now I can just run it off the sound card, and in the future throw in a separate DAC.

Edit: Alternatively there's the truly awesome-looking Dayton DTA-120: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Nad D 3020v2 fits all criteria. Emotiva Ta- 100 is normal sized, but fits all other criteria. PS Audio Sprout would be a great option, but is a bit over budget.

You could also get a small dac/amp and add a small phono preamp like the schiit mani. You could stack the Schiit on something small like the micca origain.

Hope this helps.

Ok m8, so after researching more, looks like MB42X is one of the best one out there and the bad review is from people who don't have subwoofer and they expect lower frequency from this speaker since I'm already going to get a Dayton 1000 sub, I believe MB42X is going to perfect for me. especially reviews say it performs really good on mid-range which is important for me since I watch a lot of movies. so here is my final list, can you tell me if I'm missing something like if the banana plug is correct (and how many of them I need?), and do I need the cable (no cable comes with the speaker?) and check for the AMP if it's good enough.

• Dayton 1000
  
  
• MB42X
  
  
• AMP 100w Fosi Audio TB10A https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H
  
  
• Banana Plugs https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/
  
  
• cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

I bought the SMSL SA50 https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC , the SMSL SA100 https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Channel-Adjustment-Amplifiers/dp/B07Q2XC7K3/ , and the FOSI T20 Bluetooth Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q26T5N7 to try out with a pair of Sony Cores (crazy sale right now) and the Dayton MK442t.

This is totally subjective, but I felt like the FOSI was so much warmer and easier to control where I wanted the tone to be. Hands down sounded way better than the SMSL. I was really skeptical of the tube hybrid, but it sounds great. I'm curious if the AD18 would have similar tonal range to the SA100.

I've been listening with headphones since I've gotten my turntable and I decided I'd like to get some speakers for it as well. I've got a Fluance turntable as well as a Little Dot Mk2 headphone amp. I've been considering getting these speakers. I don't really know what I'm doing, but I'm assuming I'm going to need another amp for the speakers? Any suggestions on a mid priced amp, or will the Mk2 work for speakers as well? Will those speakers work fine with my turntable? Any help is appreciated!

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

Firstly, thank you very much for the detailed response!
I have definitely confused a receiver for an amplifier, thanks for clearing that up.

Here's what my plan is:

• I have a Technics SLQ200 with a receiver, and I will be moving it to another room.
  
  
• My new table is a Sony PS212 - that will be going in the old room with existing set up (receiver and speakers).
  
  
• The new room will have my Technics TT (where I can enjoy my records more often), but there isn't the room for a receiver like the one I have already.
  
  Looking at what I linked, I don't believe its a pre-amp at all (though I said it was), it seems to be a 'mini amplifier'
  
  Would this then be sufficient for my Technics TT? I would only have to plug the input into this mini-amp and it would function like the existing receiver that I am looking to down size?
  
  Thanks again!

great. I really don't have anything to compare them to aside from these cheapie Logitechs. I guess some more bass would be nice and such but definitely doesn't have to be overpoweringly loud. It's the garage and I workout a lot at night so I'm sure my neighbors would appreciate it. I have the option of getting the edifiers I listed for $50 preowned but if the separate speakers and amp are better I'll have to decide. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B076XSBCCL?pldnSite=1

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537553961&sr=1-4&keywords=bic+speakers&pldnSite=1

It'll work, but it's a little overkill for what you need and you'd need an external power management solution since you don't want to leave that on all the time. A dedicated amp like the Dayton APA150 is a more focused product and has automatic power on when there is an audio signal, so you save on power.

Edit: It looks like the Onkyo has an electronic power button (instead of a hard physical button) so the only convenient way to power that on and off would be a universal remote with a macro to turn the system on and off as a whole. It doesn't seem like a 12 volt triggered power strip would work, for instance.

This would be best as a gift :

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-System-Bluetooth-Technology-GTK-XB72/dp/B07PBFKXW9/ref=sxin__ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTUwIGFuZCAkMzAw&keywords=sony+bluetooth+speaker&pd_rd_i=B07PBFKXW9&pd_rd_r=78ee09fb-cec9-465f-98a6-7d60015fab7f&pd_rd_w=JVPdS&pd_rd_wg=eZKmZ&pf_rd_p=64aaff2e-3b89-4fee-a107-2469ecbc5733&pf_rd_r=HDCYMB8KJMHEMGTPENWZ&qid=1564251469&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also,you could always also choose to gift these together,would last a lifetime of sound,way greater value for money.I would get these but where Im at but import costs more.anyways,these are way better value for money IMO :

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1MLPWO3G99XBY&keywords=polk+t15&qid=1564251543&s=gateway&sprefix=polk+t1%2Caps%2C363&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Speakers/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=amplifier&qid=1564251573&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Hello there, trying to hook up an RCA sub (RT2250B) to a Sony STR-DH500 receiver.

The only sub output is RCA, and the only sub's I have use regular speaker wire.

I have hooked up my sub to the regular surround outputs for now (increased wear on the other speakers?), but I would like to know how I can hook it in properly.

I have some RCA cords from an old speaker system that I stripped to try and connect it, but it didn't work. I suppose there is to much resistance in those wires?

I think I need something like this, but that is basically what I made with the old systems RCA cables.

Thanks!

P.S.- Completely open to suggestions on upgrades, like getting this Lepy 2020A, I suppose I can hook up my current speakers to this also?

Although $15 more, consider the powered [Edifier 1280T] (http://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/studio-1280t-2.0-powered-bookshelf). These bookshelf sound great for the price point, are housed in a solid wood enclosure, have multiple audio inputs (including the 1/8-inch), remote for input switching and audio control, a 2 year warranty, and arrive with all the cables needed. It's currently the best selling bookshelf speaker on Amazon. Here's a [YouTube review] (https://youtu.be/7JgZIUDmbHo).

If you wish to save more, I also have another CCA connected to an ONEU Mini Amp that I've connected to a pair of used AR tower speakers that I scored buying from Goodwill for $20.

ok, i think as i read more about the possibilities, i'm leaning towards giving-up the tone controls (i'll try and do it within Windows OS), and liking the idea of integrated DAC.

What are the chances of finding a single desktop AMp with SPDIF optical, integrated DAC, headphone pre-amp, and power amp for external shelf speakers ?

i like the Audioengine N22 so far, while it doesn't have optical in, it seems to be well suited for driving headphones and speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-N22-Desktop-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B0049OI08W

any other amps like this, maybe with bonus of optical in ?

To stay within your $100-$200 budget, I suggest the following:

Amps:
Lepai LP2020TI - $25 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268602&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp-2020ti

or

SMSL SA50 - $65 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540269026&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl+sa50

or

Micca Origain - $80 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01M0SL7YC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540269132&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=micca+origain&psc=1

or

Micca Origain plus DAC - $100 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540269166&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=micca+origain&psc=1





Speakers:
Polk S15 - $180 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S15-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWZS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268626&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+s15

or

Klipsch R-15M - $160 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Pair/dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268651&sr=8-3&keywords=r-15m

or

Sony SSCS5 - $150 on Amazon(I would wait for this one as this goes on sale down to $118 quite often)
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268703&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+sscs5

or

Polk TSI100 - $130 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268773&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=polk+tsi100&psc=1&smid=A14IIJ8CA334LK

or

Fluance SX6 - $130 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-SX6-BK-Definition-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers-Black/dp/B00IEDL8EM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268818&sr=8-2&keywords=fluance+sx6

or

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR - $100 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268840&sr=8-3&keywords=fluance+sx6

or

Polk T15 - $70 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540268744&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=polk+t15&psc=1


Mix and match any of these within your budget and you will do just fine. I highly recommend the Polk S15's with the Lepai amp though.

With the money you save you'd be able to pick up a solid amp and keep everything module. Something like the

Check this out at Amazon.com - Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier 50W x 2 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0SL7YC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tzADDbNSTVTF9

Would be able to amplify your dac well enough.

Active speakers are great and all but they all have tjoer drawbacks in terms of lack of versatility I. E. No passive crossover means you can never reuse them as passive satellites and are forced to use the internal amp no matter if you want to so you can add a tube section or anything like that.

In fact if you got active speakers it would likely already have a dac built in so you'd be spending extra money for no reason.

If you're basing it around a schit modi dac all you need is a basic stereo amp with LFE out for a sub and if you want to make sure it also has Phono in so you can add a turn table if you ever think you might be interested.

Down the line if you ever want to upgrade to surround sound you can reuse them as satellite or height surrounds whereas with active speakers you cannot.

Recent Japanese amplifiers are extremely good, cheap and indistinguishable from most high end stuff. Add to that the fact that old units will sooner or later need a recap and the choice is clear.

Don't worry about volume, in a small room you reach lawn mower volumes with 10W. A lot of people would actually get away with a small "class T" amp, their biggest downside is the number of inputs: high end manufacturers use the same type of components, add a DAC and a bunch of inputs and sell them for $400 and to be honest they're worth it, great little amps for small spaces, you should consider it.

Low frequencies are boosted the most in a small room so if it's bassy enough in the store, it'll be even more so at home.

I have a pair of speakers that I really like, from an old radio system. They plug into the radio via spring clips and I think they sound good. (I'm more of a headphone guy so my only other speakers are the crappy ones I have plugged into my PC -- for all I know these radio speakers are complete crap to you all.) I was thinking about plugging them to my PC somehow but I'm having issues finding a way to do it.

I've gathered so far that they're passive, meaning I'd need an amplifier. All well and good, but these speakers seem to be special snowflakes at 4 Ohms and 10 W maximum power. There's a slew of amplifiers that support speakers 2-8/4-8 Ohms, but they claim 20W output, and I'm not sure how well that'd go over if connected.

So ... what do I do if I want to see these speakers connected to my computer?

Grab this refurbished NAD D3020: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B00F0OMUGS/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

The speakers seem to be fairly easy to drive if specs are close to the truth, and this amp will give you a good quality DAC together with a great quality amp. Sell your Cambridge DAC and you'll make enough to stay within budget :)

It doesn't have any strength because you aren't driving it with any real power. As harrywhite1 has stated your best option is to buy a cheap 10-30 watt amp. Personally I like my amps to be rated higher than my speakers and judge safety off of sound but that is just me. Just make sure it has a 8 ohm out or lower.

We use a ton of these at work and they are pretty solid for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA2-2X40-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2VV50#

If you are looking for a schematic just for the fun of building expect to pay more on average.

Copy and pasted a question I asked another thread in this sub.

> Hello, /u/ZeosPantera I noticed that the Dayton Audio DTA-120 is no longer in your recommended list. IIRC you had it previously. I quite like mine, just looking for your thoughts regarding it as a headphone amp. specifically how well it will drive Beyerdynamic DT990 250ohm pro. My setup is PC->UCA202->DTA-120->DT990pro250 / B562

Also if you are interested in and/or enjoy in Dwarf Fortress check out the game /r/gnomoria. It is an Isometric Dwarf Fortress type clone, in active development. It is nearing 1.0 and has really come a long way, and while nowhere near as deep as DF yet, by the time 1.0+ rolls around it will have a lot of features, be quite challenging and quite a lot of !fun!, no clowns yet unfortunately, I would love to see the "circus" al la DF for more late game content in gnomoria.

So I'm using this setup for my PC. The source is a HT Omega Claro card (not sure if it matters). I found the speakers in the basement and the amp I got from my wife's old room at her parents.

The JBL Control 1's don't have any serial number or identifying marks on it but it's from the 1980s. I'm just going to assume they're regular JBL Control 1's?

The amp is I took from this http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/MCM704D_37/-/specifications which I managed to find the service manual for so I found out it uses a "TDA7265" chip in the amp.

I set it up and it with the JBL's in place of the stock speakers and it sounds okay. Bass response is a bit lacking in the lower end, but I read it's normal for these speakers.

I should mention that the amp can't run alone, it needs the CD deck attached with a control cable since the "brains" of it seems to be in the CD deck.

Would I benefit at all in buying something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484854702&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier Other than the obvious space savings.

I also wish I could run the phillips amp unit alone, even the power cord is attached directly to the amp. But it seems like the amp doesn't turn on without the control unit.

You're going to have to make some compromises.

You could go with a decent headset such as the Sennheiser PC37X, and use your on-board audio, which is probably what I'd recommend for your budget, and just add a dac/amp later on when you can afford it. This will give you the best value for your budget.

Alternatively you could go with a cheaper pair of headphones and a $5-10 mic (I'm not too familiar with ones sub $100 though, so can't help you there.) and something like an FX-Audio Dac X6 or a used Dragonfly Black. I see them on Craigslist every now and then for around $50.

Personally, with your budget I'd start with a decent pair of headphones and a cheap mic, or headset, and save for a schiit stack.

Schiit Modi Dac & Schiit Magni Amp

HELP! So i bought this amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=emc_b_5_i

arrives tomorrow for this bass shaker i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/Buttkicker-BK-GR2-ButtKicker-BK-GR-Gamer/dp/B000AOTLP6

but the amp tech support says it may not work because of some active or passive thing the shaker needs that the amp may not have. can anyone tell me for sure before i open the package tomorrow?

Hi. I've been searching for a used turntable for a couple of weeks now and have come across a Pioneer PL12 on Gumtree. Other than asking the owner typical questions about the upkeep, can anyone offer some thoughts on this TT?

I've also been looking at receivers. I already have the Behringer PP4400 and I'm going for Wharfedale Diamond 9.1's. Would this receiver/amp be okay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06XYKNRXJ/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_bDVZFP_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=BWPVEB0865B21ZH759KW&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=4c0b3886-d519-588f-a5c8-f36aaf17bf0e&pf_rd_i=199616031&th=1&psc=1

As you can tell I'm on a budget but would like a receiver that would allow me to use the system as an all-in-one entertainment system with my PS4 as well (already have a optical adapter).

NAD D3020 is a great option. Very small form factor, good amount of power for a smaller room (30w x2), decent onboard DAC, great price, extras like Bluetooth. If you're looking for more power for larger speakers, they have a D7030 that's up to 50w x2, and has a similar size.

https://www.amazon.ca/Electronics-3020-Integrated-Amplifier-Bluetooth%C2%AE/dp/B00F0OMUGS

The first Monoprice ones are self powered, basically an all in one solution. You'd just have to plug them into power behind the scenes when installing.

For everything else you'll be running speaker cable from the speaker to your amp, whatever you end up picking. Cheap bluetooth devices don't tend to survive all that long so I'd put whatever's at the amp end somewhere easy to troubleshoot and/or replace. Given the kitchen environment I'd avoid anything with a lot of cooling holes/vents just in case of spills or sprays. Keystones would make for a nice and neat install on the amp side. Amps are fairly straightforward. The Powernode I linked early is an outstanding value, if a bit large. NAD's D3020 is more counter friendly. If you want to go cheaper there's any number of Chinese brands like SMSL but I can't vouch for their quality.

Cheaper speakers are dicey, I'd just look for a reassuring number of reviews saying that they don't sound like trash. As a bit of an audio snob I'd rather be safe than sorry, especially when it comes to carving holes in the ceiling to the specific size of that speaker.

I have something similar to this: https://www.amazon.ca/Amplifier-Channel-Bookshelf-Computer-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1537932242&sr=8-13&keywords=speaker%2Bamplifier%2Bhome&th=1

It would be nice to control the subwoofer output via the amplifier, but I suppose if need be I could just adjust the volume on my computer.

Ideally I would have an amp with a sub pre-amp output, but haven't been able to find one yet. If I went with something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Subwoofer-Audio/dp/B07CNMQ358/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537936922&sr=8-7&keywords=2.1+amplifier+subwoofer would I be able to safely connect the sub to the amp's output? I don't have a good understanding on what is amplified... is it voltage, current, or both?

My Debut has the Ortofon red cartridge.

So as long as the amp has at least 75 watt/ch and 4 ohms or greater I'll be good, considering I go with those speakers? Would this be a decent match? Looks to be exactly 75 watts @ 4 ohms if I'm not mistaken.

I'm not against a vintage amp, but I was hoping to get something more compact since space is an issue, and it looks like most vintage amps are huge. Plus craigslist doesn't have too many options for me.

I use two Aura bass shakers which I attached to a 2x4 on the beams on the inside of my couch. They are wired in series to one channel of a small two channel amp.

The amp is connected to the subwoofer output of my receiver. If you have a X.1 receiver (as I do), simply attach an RCA splitter to the subwoofer output so that one can go to your actual sub and one to the bass shakers.

I love having friends and family to my apartment for the first time. I'll put on some music and they will sit on the big leather couch and without fail mention that the sound must be so loud because they "can feel the bass!" I love my bass shakers especially for Battlefield 4, I have not yet bought BF1, and action movies. If I could make a recommendation: buy a proper subwoofer amp for the shakers. Usually these amps have a built-in EQ or a crossover so you can dial in exactly what frequencies you want the shakers to react to.

I remember the NAD brand. I will look to see it. Will edit this after I do. I also edited the original with what I learned and would appreciate a second look.

Edit: looks like the lowest NAD is $500. https://www.amazon.com/NAD-Hybrid-Digital-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B07992VZ6L/

Note how nice I am to trim the urls of tracking. Grin.

i want you to know I do appreciate the NAD. I used to have one. The top was a preamp and the bottom a power amp. There were 2 U-shaped gizmos to connect the 2 halves.

"Specs" for the $500 NAD follow.

NAD's D 3020 v2 hybrid digital integrated amplifier

• without adding noise or distortion
  
• IR remote control
  
• asynchronous 24-bit/96k DAC,
  
• aptX Bluetooth Streaming
  
• THD (20 Hz – 20 kHz): <0.01 % (at 1W, 4 and 8 ohms)
  
• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >98 dB (A-weighted, 500 mV input, ref. 2.828 V out in 4 ohms)-
  
• Continuous output power into 4 and 8 ohms: 40 W (ref. 20 Hz-20 kHz at 0.1% THD, both channels driven)
  
  QUESTION
  Does only one of the 7 do bluetooth or is there another way of saying bluetooth. If I search on Amazon for Brand amp bluetooth I get models with no mention of Bluetooth.

I wouldn't pick up one of those amps. One of the features for one of them is that they don't spark when plugging power in.

For an amp, try this Micca Origain.

If you have the room, a receiver might be better for you. This Yamaha R-S202 would work well, but only works with 8 ohm speakers.

For speakers, you have a few options.

Klipsch R-14M

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR(6 ohm)

The Micca MB42X when they come back in stock.

Also, if you can build them, C-Note Speaker Kit. These will be better than any other cheap speaker you can find new. Will need around $50-100 in tools to build them.

As far as cheap subs go, this Dayton Audio SUB-1000 might be your best bet.

Parts Express coupon codes:

SSVTEN $10 off $100

CJ2FIVE $25 off $250

Hi, I'm in the process of purchasing my first real audio setup (for my computer) and could use some advice. I have the following:

Speakers - Audioengine P4 Passive Speakers

Amplifier - Dayton Audio DTA-120

Subwoofer - Polk Audio PSW10 Powered Subwoofer

Now, I need to get a DAC as I don't really want to use the sound card in my computer for obvious reasons, but I'm not sure how the setup of this system is going to work with the powered subwoofer. The amplifier has two channels (unless I'm horribly mistaken)- those will be taken up by the speakers. However, I'm confused as to how I get the subwoofer connected properly with the speakers. All of the (relevant, I think) setup configurations in the PSW10 manual have a receiver with a sub out connection, which I don't have.

The subwoofer has L/R inputs as well as speaker-level inputs, but I don't really have any idea what I'm doing and I don't want to buy a DAC that isn't going to work with what I have... I feel like the answer might be obvious when staring at the inputs/outputs of each component, but I don't know enough about how everything in the system will interact to know for sure whether things are still going to sound like they should given a particular configuration.

Can I just split the signal from the DAC, send one cable into the powered subwoofer (either the L or R line input on the PSW10 works as mono, not sure which), and the other cable into the amplifier->the speakers? From what I understand that would leave me unable to control the volume/crossover frequency of the sub- in that case I'd have to use the speaker-level inputs instead, but I honestly have no clue how those work at all, or how they'd even connect to the P4s... I don't really know what my options are here, so any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

edit: I think I have figured it out. If I connect the sub to the amp via the speaker-level inputs, I can connect to the speakers through the speaker-level outputs on the sub and the sub will act as an external crossover. In retrospect, this should have been really obvious to me. Oh well.

Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.

I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.

The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652

As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable

If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.

There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.

I don't know a ton about the echo but it appears to have an aux output.

These little amps are popular in projects like yours.

An 1/8 to RCA cable would connect your echo to the amp, and the speaker would wire directly to the amp using whatever existing speaker wires were there.

You're not likely to get great sound out of the existing speaker but I'd leave it in place until you get something that works and then decide on an upgrade based on your needs.

Yeah but you could also get this Topping VX1 and just connect your speakers right to it. I have one for my home office and one for my, uh, office office to use regular bookshelf speakers for desk speakers. Great little guy. If you want to use an external amp you're out of luck unless it has high level input.

I'm looking to pick up a sub for my PC audio setup. Currently I've got an SMSL AD18 with a pair of Q Acoustics 3010 bookshelf speakers. I use it primarily for music, with games as a secondary usage with movies and tv in a distant third.

​

I am leaning towards picking up the Klipsch R-10SWi 10" Wireless Subwoofer.

​

I'm a total noob so would love someone who knows what they are doing to help me out here.

1. Am I correct that I should use a powered sub with the AD18, or should I be looking for a passive one?
   
2. Will the wireless transmitter work with the sub output on the AD18?
   
3. Are additional cables needed to make it work? If so, which?
   
4. Is there a better sub option at a similar price point?
   
   ​
   
   Thank you so much for your help!

Will the one I linked below work also? I like the idea of the volume control knob and that it looks pretty stylish as well as the RCA’s are in the back of the unit.
Does it matter that it is also an amp as well as a DAC? My audioengine speakers are powered with a built in amp.
Thanks. FX Audio DAC X6

My setup:

Amp: Little Dot MK II

Pre-amp tubes: 1980's US Military Surplus - General Electric JAN (Joint Army Navy) 5654W

Power Tubes: 1972 Soviet Military Surplus - 6N6P (aka 6H6P) with gold grid


Holy cow, this little amp was worth it. On top of that, upgrading the tubes made the sound so much more better. The little dot's typically come with cheap, modern Chinese tubes that sound pretty lacking. Upgrading the stock tubes is absolutely mandatory if you go with a Chi-Fi tube amp, the difference is so night and day that your partially deaf grandmother could tell the difference.

The audio quality is nothing short of outstanding and the sound signature you get is completely configurable depending on what tubes you use. I highly recommend this guide for deciding what tubes to buy. I chose mine based on the best bassy sound I could get on a budget, and it delivers.

I've had mine for the past year and have been using it with my daily drivers, my Sennheiser HD 429. Today I got a pair of Beyerdynamic DT 880 600 ohm cans in the mail. I can absolutely notice a huge difference between my computer's internal amplifier and the Little Dot, even without an external DAC. There is so much detail in the music that the DT 880's high range becomes nearly painful to listen to. Soundstage also gains a massive improvement.

Mind you, reviews of tube amps are highly dependent on what tubes a user has in their system, so these reviews should be seen as just as much of a tube review as a review of the amplifier itself. If someone is going to review their amp with stock tubes, their story is likely going to be very different.

Overall, I totally recommend the Little Dot MK II, but again, it is mandatory that you swap out the stock tubes.

I have one of these, but only because I couldn't find a decent T-amp for a reasonable price at the time. It's a solid little amp; does what it says on the package. I have it driving a pair of Panasonic SB-L50s and it does a good job.

I'd go with the one wankerschnitzel recommended were I buying now, though. I've heard very good things about T-amps.

Classical music is always a challenge. You can get a NAD D 3020 dac/amp for $400, and pair it with Elac B6 for $280. For an extra $35, you can buy Chromecast Audio that will give you high quality wireless streaming, and you can feed its digital output into the NAD.

You can read the reviews of all these products. There are alternatives to the NAD D 3020 in similar price points. Marantz PM 6005 for example is available for only a little bit more and it has an inbuilt DAC too. But i honestly believe this is one of the best "bang for the buck" configurations you can get in your budget.

Just make sure to put the speakers on stands, give it some room away from the back wall, and use the Cardas Golden Ratio to place your speakers optimally in your room.

Whoops, mistyped - meant to say a knob within reach.

Any suggestions for a DAC for the A2's, seeing as there isnt much room for an internal sound card?

So, basically my best bet is the A2's with a DAC. Thank you so much for the help!

Edit: Maybe This could work with the B&W's?
Should I look into Tube Amps?

What you need is an amplifier. Something that allows you to connect sources (CD player, computer, tv, video game, etc.) and amplifies the sound for your speakers (you have "passive" speakers, they have no amplifier inside). You probably also want something with wireless connectivity so you can easily send music from your phone or tablet, etc. Look at this: http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp7498e-200w-class-d-stereo-amplifier-with-bluetooth-aptx-and-power-supply--310-298

If you want to go fancier with better sound quality and more connections (optical, digital AND wireless and wired). This is a great rig. :https://www.amazon.com/NAD-3020-Hybrid-Digital-Integrated/dp/B00F0OMUGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487000081&sr=8-2&keywords=NAD+amplifier+with+bluetooth

Here is something priced right in the middle that would work well also. NuForce is high quality stuff from a US company (made in China) that is not so well known but has a great reputation in the audio world. This is what I would buy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UOVOVXM/ref=psdc_537344_t2_B00F0OMUGS
Review here: http://www.whathifi.com/optoma/nuforce-dda-120/review

first of all, you'll be fine. it sucks getting dumped. good job investing in yourself while you get back on your feet.

second, you will definitely need an amp for those speakers.

third, you don't need a DAC if you don't want one.

fourth, you can either get a little amp that will drive your speakers and have an earphone jack, or get an amp for the speakers and a portable headphone amp.

​

if you want an amp just for the speakers, you can get nice ones for $75 all day long on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL/

that cable you linked is all you need to go from your computer to the amp.

​

if you want to get a bit creative w/your cables, you can use your headphones directly w/the computer w/o buying any more equipment...

grab a pair of these https://www.amazon.com/adapter-Hi-end-Splitter-Adapter-Plated-KK-07/dp/B01H9QW6FY/, and then basically the female version of your original cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JQM71H8/

​

the piggyback adapters plug into the RCA inputs on your amp.

male 3.5mm to RCA goes from the computer to one of the sockets on the piggyback adapters

female 3.5mm to RCA uses the other sockets on the piggyback adapters, and your headphones use that cable.

I got Klipsh R-14Ms and they work great, granted you have to get an amplifier and then banana plugs and speaker wire, which is easier than you think. All in all, it can be quite an adventure.

I replied with recommendations to improve your setup. I'm sorry if you didn't like my answer but you would improve your sound by throwing those speakers in the garbage and starting over again.

Also, nobody said you had to spend $1000 to have a decent sounding setup. There is TONS of used gear out there that people want to unload for cheap. Most people these days are unloading their larger speakers for soundbars and bluetooth speakers so there are lots of deals to sniff out.

Also....

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1491184966&sr=8-42&keywords=powered+speakers

Would you have been able to jump into the hobby with an extra $10? 4" drivers in an mdf enclosure with actual tweeters vs. (i'm guessing) 1.5" drivers in a plastic case with no tweeters.

I was also able to find several better options for a bit more money but nothing over $350.

If you are aware that your gear is cheap then you really shouldn't be surprised when somebody suggests that you replace it. Enjoy those Micca speakers by the way.

EDIT: Sorry, you'll need this crazy expensive stereo amp too.....
https://www.amazon.com/ONEU-amplifier-Stereo-Booster-Supply/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1491185693&sr=8-14&keywords=stereo+amp

Give us some specs on the speakers. How many inputs do you want on the amp?

I'm a fan of the new digital amps (aka T-Amps, because they are considered class T) for inexpensive < 100WPC amps. Many are sold on Amazon.

Here is a 20WPC that looks nice: http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348156639&sr=8-1&keywords=t-amp

Here is a 40WPC: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA2-80-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1348156639&sr=8-4&keywords=t-amp

And here is a 50WPC that looks like it's got a little better build quality: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DTA-100a-Class-T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B004JK8BDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1348156639&sr=8-5&keywords=t-amp

I used to have those, but then I got a set of bookshelf speakers with an amp, and I am never ever going back. They blow even my old klipsch 4.1s away.

My current setup:

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JVxvyb84AS4AB

ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sWxvybD03CTT7

I do not miss surround sound with how incredibly clear these guys are.

Last question, I promise :D. Will I be kicking myself later on a cheaper amp? Would something like a Dayton DTa120 be noticeably better? I know the speakers are 80 Watts and I won't be playing that loud since my room is pretty small.

DAC: Syba Sonic USB 24 Bit 96 KHz DAC Digital to Analog Headphone Amplifier 2 Stage EQ Digital / Coaxial Output and RCA Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l2KvCbKJYFTPQ

AMP: ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MBUX40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3KvCb9FGDATV

Speakers: Edifier P12 Passive Bookshelf Speakers - 2-Way Speakers with Built-in Wall-Mount Bracket - Wood Color, Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM7F15C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p4KvCbDVP9T04

Super budget setup but it sounds fantastic.

Objective 2 [linked is the O2/ODAC combo; O2 is sold individually, as well], Schiit Magni, Little Dot MKII.

I don't have personal experience (except at an audio show but I was auditioning a pair of headphones I didn't have experience with) with the Schiit products but people in this subreddit pay for their yachts so there must be something to it. I really like the MKII as a nicely priced tube amp that works well with these headphones and the O2 was designed to drive anything.

Yeah? Do you think the N22 would be under powered? it is a A/B but only 22 watts per channel max. Probably better off with the Emotiva but I can picture it on my desk easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-N22-Desktop-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B0049OI08W/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=NAD+D3020&qid=1574172837&sr=8-7

Alternatively if you have passive speakers and want a great low cost solution, these Class T amps are fantastic:

Lepy (Lepai) LP-2020A 2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier

• Budget — $200 - $350
  
  
• Headphones — Audio-Technica ATH-R70x (99 dB Sensitivity & 470 ohms Impedance) + antlion modmic + windows desktop pc
  
  
• Preferred Music — RTS Gaming and anything from jazz to classical to EDM, but I prefer bass-heavy to bass-light.
  
  
• What am I looking for? — I'd like something that I can plug both my headphones and microphone into, and adjust the volume for both. I like the sound that my e10k puts out but I have to keep it at max volume along with windows volume being over 80% to get it at an acceptable volume.
  
  
• The Creative X7 seems close to what I want but feels extravagant with the included mic and bluetooth features, neither of which I would use.
  
  

yeah, its doable. I've got it setup right now and love it.

I've got these things:

Atrium 4 Speakers

Fosi Amplifier

SockitBox

and a 6 port surge strip.

I've got the strip, the amplifier and the CC in the Sockitbox, outdoors. plug the surge strip in and everything powers up, and I can cast to it. if you used a different amplifier that would work with the projector I'm sure it'd be fine.

I'd say the cheapest option would be to scour amazon for cheap, entry level gear. If you search phono preamp some solutions would show up. As far as amps go, [here is a relatively inexpensive] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2VV50/ref=asc_df_B001P2VV502188142?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=cnet-ce-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B001P2VV50) one to start off with. Please note I am not recommending this specific one, though it does have some good reviews. I am just using it as an example as to what you could look for as far as low power amps for a turntable. Needledoctor.com will have a lot amps too but most of them are pricey. I like looking here because it gives you an idea of what is out there.

Your second option would be to look for used vintage receivers in good condition. Search your thrift stores, pawn shops, consignment shops, garage sales, craigslist posts, etc.

Okay great! Would one of these work for my TV with a roku and chromecast hooked up? Essentially, would I be able to have all audio from my TV come out of the speakers? I think I can use my TVs 3.5mm audio out to the receiver and then anything played through the TV would have output to the speakers.

I was looking at this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076P2VS9H/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_eCEMDbFRX0FZ7

This is what the seller wrote on the Craigslist page: "Turntable has the preamp bypassed for much better sound quality (sounded muddy with the cheap built in preamp. Just google "AT LP120 preamp bypass" and you'll find lots of positive feedback on the modification." I meant to ask him about it but completely forgot.

I have a budget of $70-120. I'm looking at amps like these:

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eD8vybBZKFNRZ

Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Digital Mini Amplifier 60 WPC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gW8vybA47HVHH

Which I'd use with something like this:


ART Pro Audio DJPRE II Phono Turntable Preamplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJR482/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nX8vybW98ZMT1

BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LX8vyb5S2EEDN

I recommend the FX Audio DAC, it has USB and SPDIF inputs, it sounds very clean and has been my favorite DAC. If you look on YouTube there's a channel called ZREVIEWS, he reviews it and shows how well it performs. https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B01HERNVQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542196326&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41LGTJ6EsML&ref=pl

Noob here. I'm an IT guy that's been tasked with adding a sound system for background music for a very small coffeeshop. Basically, I've got 1 room to provide sound for that is approximately 20' x 30' with 9' ceilings. My budget for doing this is around $450.

I've been looking at amplifiers like this

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=yamaha+rs202bl&qid=1571585324&sr=8-4

or this

https://www.amazon.com/BT20A-Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Integrated/dp/B07BQC7GNL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=bt20a&qid=1571585361&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMNkRZM09SVjlBS1YmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxMTkwMDdKUFhOSFJDQlJLQlomZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDEyNjQ1NEE4OVROMFlKSjc5WSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

and putting in ceiling speakers like this

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Ceiling-Speakers-Placement/dp/B00006BMQT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=polk+in+ceiling&qid=1571585254&sr=8-3

Will I be fine with what I have listed, or are there better options, especially for the amplifier?

Its on my list of things to do. Its an [SMSL AD18](https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Bluetooth-Digital-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9), which I love, but it has a few little issues at the same time. I'd love to use an ESP8266 or something similar to control the power and volume of the thing, and tie it to whichever PC/Mac/whatever im using to control the volume over TCP.

Hey everyone, can you please send me some recommendations for desktop amp/dac all in ones? I have finally moved away from my blunt/noisy logitech computer speakers, and I would like an engulfing 2.0 setup. I believe I have found what speakers Im going to use for my desktop system, however I don’t know what to choose in regards to the amp/dac, preferably something that has a headphone port, so I can use it as a headphone amp also. My range is $300-$500.
Because the speakers Im going to buy have a RMS of 80W, I would like to find an amp/dac that has that much power per channel if possabile.

Anyways, if you guys know of a desktop amp/dac that has: relatively small footprint, headphone out, usb or optical in, 60-80 watt for 2 channels, and a quick punchy sound please let me know! Im going to be doing about 25% music listening, 75% gaming with this setup.

Some of the things I have found so far I have listed here, but after doing some reading it would seem they are under-powered or get a mix review in regards to build quality:
https://www.planetofsoundonline.com/collections/amplifiers/products/teac-ai-101da-integrated-amplifier-with-dac | and
https://www.amazon.com/NAD-3020-Hybrid-Digital-Integrated/dp/B00F0OMUGS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485463043&sr=1-1&keywords=nad+d+3020 | or Schitt audio, but the amp/dac options from Schitt are out of my price range.

The speakers im going to buy (unless you suggest something better):
https://totemacoustic.com/en/mite/specifications


Thanks.

ha, I used this svs wireless adapter combined with a small 2 channel amp to run some rear speakers where I couldn't run wires in a wife approved manner. Works great.

One possibility that has respectable sound on a budget and gives you future flexibility is this ART: http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus/dp/B000BBGCCI/ref=pd_cp_MI_1

I bought one of these at the same time as the ART, but it didn't mesh well with my system at the time, so I returned it. It is however, tube driven and has a more robust headphone section than the ART: http://www.amazon.com/Bellari-VP130-Preamplifier-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B002TD4GME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407099671&sr=1-1&keywords=headphone+phono+preamp

Or something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-MKII-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QMAI2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407099671&sr=1-6&keywords=headphone+phono+preamp#productDetails

So I'm by no means a hobbyist. In fact, as of today I just purchased my first pair of ELAC bookshelf speakers. Over at r/buildapcsales, people were raving over these speakers for the price. So I bit! The problem is I know next to nothing about how to set these things up.

​

I know I need Banna plugs, speaker wire and an amp (and a sub ^(ill probably buy a) ^(Polk) ^(later)). I will be using these with my new PC I'm building currently. I'd also like to be able to run my echo do (mainly for Alexa functions and streaming music) through this system.

​

I have a few amps in my cart atm via Amazon.

​

• Dayton Audio DTA-2.1BT 100W Class D 2.1 Amplifier with Bluetooth and Power Supply $88.75
  
• SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter $66
  
• BT20A Bluetooth 4.2 Stereo Audio 2 Channel Amplifier Receiver Mini Hi-Fi Class D $76.98
  
• Lepy LP-2020A Hi-Fi Digital Amplifier $24.39
  
• SMSL AD18HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X, USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 $130.49
  
  So if I'm planning on sync devices via the echo I don't technically need Bluetooth receiver in my amp, right? What about if I have a Bluetooth in my motherboard? I'm not sure if there's a difference between devices like keyboards and audio devices with Bluetooth.
  
  ​
  
  Thanks for the Help Experts,
  
  u/rnplyr1985