(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best audio & video connectors & adapters

I have solved this problem for myself. New iMac instead of MBP, but still using a USB-C port. It may seem a little intense, but this method works, and it works better than any cheapo Chinese VCR to USB dongle you can buy online.

Here's the hardware and software you'll need to get a good capture:

Hardware

1. A VCR with yellow, red, and white composite outputs. ($10-60 Goodwill online)
   If you're looking to just capture the VHS, ignore all the uber-elite perfectionista online. Get a working VCR, and clean the video heads if you feel confident enough to do so.
   
2. Canopus ADVC-100 or ADVC-110 ($80-100 eBay; I'll sell you my working ADVC-100 for $70 shipped to USA. Msg me.)
   This is the box that your Mac will recognize as video playback hardware, and that MacOS will support for capturing without paying extra for software. Worth the price, I promise you. This is the investment part of the process, and is what enables your Mac to even see your VCR. This is the most important piece of hardware.
   
3. Composite cable ($7 Amazon)
   Don't be tempted into buying composite to HDMI/DVI/USB/USB-C/Thunderbolt. Plugging these into your VCR then into your Mac will result in failure -- your Mac won't detect that it's connected into a VCR. You'll be plugging this into your ADVC,
   
4. FireWire 800 cable, 9-pin to 6-pin ($7 Amazon)
   
5. Apple Thunderbolt to FireWire Adapter ($29 Amazon)
   
6. Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter ($49 Amazon)
   
   Capture Software
   
   

• Quicktime Player (Free, included with MacOS)
  
  Hooking Everything Up
  
  

1. Plug in your (#1) VCR to power. Test with a TV that it functions properly.
   
2. Plug in your (#2) Canopus ADVC-100/110 to power.
   
3. Plug your (#3) composite cables into the "out" ports on the back of your VCR.
   
4. Plug in the other end of the (#3) composite cables to the "L - Audio In - R, Video In" ports on the Canopus ADVC.
   
5. Plug in the (#4) FireWire 800 cable to the back of the Canopus ADVC.
   
6. Plug the (#4) FireWire 800 cable into the (#5) Thunderbolt to FireWire adapter.
   
7. Plug the (#5) Thunderbolt to FireWire adapter into the (#6) Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 adapter
   
8. Plug the (#6) Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 adapter into your Mac
   
   Capturing
   
   
9. Power everything on.
   
10. Make sure your Canopus ADVC Input Select is set to Analog In
    
11. Insert your VHS tape and rewind completely
    
12. Launch Quicktime Player
    
13. Click File -> New Movie Recording
    
14. From the dropdown arrow next to the red record button, choose "ADVC-100" or "ADVC-110" for Camera and Microphone
    
15. Press play on your VCR
    
16. You should see the movie playing back (it might have a black screen for a few seconds, just wait)
    
17. If/when you see the movie playing back, rewind all the way
    
18. Hit play again on your VCR
    
19. Click the red record button in Quicktime
    
20. Quicktime will now capture your VHS tape!
    
21. When complete, click the red record button again in Quicktime
    
22. Click File -> Export As -> (the highest resolution available, should be 480p)
    
23. Save your file
    
24. Done!
    
    Here's a video of the Capturing process in action: https://youtu.be/VFy-gAJ3wtk
    
    Good luck!

I don't run that game, but looking at the leaderboards, you need the actual console to run (no emuator) and it seems practically everyone prefers gamecube (instead of Wii) so this should be your list:

• Gamecube + game + whatever else you need to play (you probably have all this covered)
  
  
• Some kind of timer program. You can find a list on this page under "Timers". I would personally recommend LiveSplit.
  
  Those are the bare minimum you'll want to run the game. Just the game and the timer. However you will most likely eventually want something to record the run if you get serious about it, or want to share your runs with other people, or if you want a record of your runs, or if you want some way for your runs to be verified (there are lots of reasons to want to record your runs) so you'll also need:
  
  
• Some sort of capture device. The go-to for SD consoles like the Gamecube is the GV-USB2. There are others, but this one will give you the best performance for its price and you don't need any HD equipment to record a GameCube. If you do want an HD capture device, I have an Elgato GameCapture HD and I'd recommend it.
  
  
• 2 double sided composite cables. They look like this.
  
  
• 3 splitters. Specifically ones that look like this.
  
  And that's it. When you have all those things, you set up the capture device like this. That's a picture with the GameCapture HD because that's all I have, but it would be the exact same setup with the GV-USB2.

I have been putting together a 5.1 system, and was wondering if you would be able to take a look at it! Maybe something you would recommend other than what is here. This set up is a little more than I wanted to spend, but from what I have read about each piece, it seems to be worth it. Any advice is appreciated!


Denon S500BT


BIC America F12


Micca MB42X Center


Micca MB42X BookShelf


Fluance AVBP2 Surround


A few questions I have:

• Are the Fluance dedicated rear speakers worth the extra 50 bucks over 4 of the Micca bookshelf speakers?
  
  
• Is the Micca center speaker a recommended speaker? I didn't see it listed in the OP, but I found it while searching through amazon, and figured that matching the front two speakers was a good idea.
  
  
• I was also looking into the Denon E300, but I don't see any advantages over the S500BT - any advice?
  
  
• What other things will I need to complete this system? Some speaker cable for sure, do I need a sub cord or any banana plugs? It doesn't look the S500 uses plugs, but I figured I would ask.

check this one out!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EHZUYG/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

i just bought a used one for my car and could not be happier!
since i have a tape adapter too that i have to use i also bought this...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGUF/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details

for the other end when it's supposed to plug into an aux port.

it connects over bluetooth and the phone basically sees it as an airplay device. when you turn the car on hit the button thats surrounded by the glowing orange ring. the ring turns blue meaning its on, hit it again and after being paired it will continue playing music from where you left off! and when you get to your destination, and shut off the car and walk a certain distance away from the car and it loses signal the music will stop and the device will shut off. i noticed mine usually shuts off about 15ft away. only downside is that you can only connect one device from what i've heard. have yet to try.
but i love it! works with voice guided GPS apps too. basically any noise your phone would make normally, will go through the belkin receiver into the car stereo.
get a used one. mine came with all parts and in great condition! just read the description first!
good luck!

oh yeah... and theres a build in mic on it for handsfree calls and whatever.

You did ask for monitors then complain about monitors being flat? That is the point of them :)

You can of course go with other speakers as well but they aren't powered. Unless of course you use a nice set of 2.1 computer speakers. Monitors really aren't necessary for a DJ and without an (expensive) sub to pair with them they can be arguably worse for DJing than a decent 2.1 computer system. Flat response isn't necessary for DJing - remember you wont get any flat response in a club so why at home?

I DJ at home with a high end set of Altec Lansing PC speakers that have been converted to 2.1 (removed center/rear channels and used this adapter. Computer speakers can be the best 'bang for the buck' if you don't have an old home theater amplifier or something to power unpowered speakers.

If you do have an amplifier (even an old home stereo/theater amp) you can go with something like these BIC America RTR-1530 for $125 each, which are 3 way and with a 15" cone will provide quite significant bass even without a subwoofer. They do have a matching sub too for $210. These speakers will perform admirably at home or on the go - although passive powered speakers are a hassle for moving around and setup.

Depending on the monitor then in all likelihood; sure, If it's one of those Thunderbolt models you might be able to do it as long as your gaming rig either has a thunderbolt port on the i/o (unlikely) or you can pick up a Thunderbolt expansion card (basically like one of those USB Brackets) for not ridiculous sums on amazon.

IIRC the majority of Apple's displays are just mini display port so you should be able to use just either an adapter or go one better and get a mini to full cable like these).

I feel you on this one bro, gotta hand it to Apple, those displays are simply beautiful. Also Yes, links are amazon uk, #ukmasterrace.

Oh, you have those types of fan connectors. You need something like a Y splitter cable to get those to plug into the mobo.

Edit: And I completely missed the other question. That larger plug is a molex, you're probably going to need to find a splitter for it to a 4-pin (just like that y-splitter I showed you) and plug it into a fan 4-pin.

Edit Edit: Actually, it does look like there are some molex-to-psu connectors, but I'd think those were for running storage devices. It seems like overkill to me to plug a fan controller into the PSU; but I've honestly never had a fan controller to know.

Edit Edit Edit: lol; so, I found this molex-to-Y cable; so maybe that's how you were suppose to connect them. It just makes no sense since you didn't indicate that there was any power leading into the fan controller. The fan controller needs power, naturally, and then the fans should lead out from that. Is there another cable you're maybe missing?

Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO

• 3.2 GHz Hexa-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 32 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB PCIe boot volume
  
• 2 TB external rotating drive for Time Machine Backups, connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C
  
• Dual 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drives for content, VOL1 and VOL2. VOL1 is replicated to VOL2, both are connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C. These handy adapter cables allow you to connect a traditional USB 3.0 device into a Thunderbolt 3 port.
  
• Single 4 TB SeaGate Plus USB 3.0 drive which contains the majority of my media content, VOL5. It is a "floater" drive which I always carry in my backpack to have the majority of my content with me at all times.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
• Dual 27” Apple Thunderbolt Displays connected to the Mac Mini, daisy-chained off a single Thunderbolt 3 port using a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
  
• This Mac Mini is what I use to host all of my iTunes content to the three Apple TVs in my home
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 100 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Running Mac OS 10.13.6 Server
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Client
  
• Time Machine Backups are being taken both on the 2018 Mac Mini as well as the 2010 Mac Mini
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at Mom & Dad’s about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my content, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my mother’s Mac Mini and my niece’s MacBook Pro. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL3, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 120 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drive for storing and hosting content, VOL3. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at my sister's house about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my movies and TV shows, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my sister's MacBook Pro and my other niece’s MacBook. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL4, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 4 TB Seagate Backup Plus USB 3.0 drive (VOL4) for storing and hosting content, VOL4. As it is only a 4 TB volumes, it contains only the moves and television shows which are on VOL1, VOL2, and VOL3.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Six-Core Intel Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 500 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  
• This is my work-provided laptop, mostly used for remote access. It is pretty locked down, I am not a local administrator so I cannot even rename it to fit my naming scheme
  
  
  

  iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
  

  
  

• 2.38 GHz Apple A10X CPU
  
• 4 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 13.0 Public Beta
  
  
  

  iPhone X, named RIPLEY
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Apple A11 Bionic CPU
  
• 3 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 12.4
  
  
  LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
  
  Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
  
  The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
  
  The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
  
  The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
  
  I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
  
  
  Additionally throughout the house, I have...
  3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
  2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
  1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
  1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
  1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
  1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
  2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
  4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
  1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
  2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
  2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
  4 Google Home Minis
  1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
  1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
  
  I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.

This is what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ <== Only rated to send 200'

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extender-Ethernet-including/dp/B00OZV04BK/ <== Rated to send 300'

Haha. Yeah, that signal is definitely dying somewhere closer to the computer. You need to install something like an HDMI-Network extender pair of devices. It basically turns the HDMI signal into an ethernet digital signal.... transmits it.... then converts it back to HDMI on the other end. Honestly, it's magical and I didn't know I'd never need one until.... I needed one. Caveat, you need to power each of the devices for it to work.

I'm the same background as you (IT with interest in home theater) and had never heard of it until I read it here in this sub a few months ago. I needed to run a monitor in a public area that was over 100' from a computer yet have the display driven by a dedicated machine.

I see what you mean, almost everything I found at first only noted up to 1080p. Your TV isn't capable of anything fancy like multiple cables for a single input. Basically, anything supporting hdmi 2.0 should be able to handle 4k 60hz. I can't say I'm familiar with the brand, but at a glance, this seems like a good fit for your situation. If you want to keep looking, just do a search for display port to hdmi 2.0. Be sure and actually look at the specs though, a lot of similar stuff on Amazon that comes up with that search only lists 4k at 24hz.

>Very helpful, thanks.

Good I'm glad. You're welcome.

>So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?

Not really optimal but more so optional. It uses 6dB of headroom you might not need to use if the sub's auto on feature is sensitive enough so it's not a must have. If you just want to use one though I'd get a different splitter. My old Mediabridge cables had connectors that went on like the jaws of a pit bull and I almost pulled my AV receiver off it's rack trying to take them off. I'd try Monoprice or better yet Kabeldirekt on Amazon for the splitter. Also remember it's not going to make the sub louder at all.

Glad to hear it! Hope you enjoy it, it's really cool! If you run into tracking issues with the controllers I definitely recommend these two things (and using them in a USB 2.0 slot if possible):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11R3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure, your current receiver works, at least for now. But it does not have sub out so we are in trouble before we even started. Temporary solution is to buy y-splitter adapter or cable amazon search

I'm using amazon just to show the products, it's not an endorsement. 5.1 at 300€ will be garbage, that is just about enough for just 2 new speakers to be honest. Things change in the used markets but the sad fact there too is that good speakers don't drop in prices that much. Those Andrew Jones speakers are VERY good for their price; they are designed to be top notch, expensive speakers, then they are carefully designed and sourced so that it will be cheap to make them. They are a benchmark for anyone on that price range.

Here's the speakers (found in google by using "andwer jones speakers", including the typo so dude, did you even try? :) )

bookshelfs

the sub

1, 2, 3, and 4 - http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gj6BD3/corsair-speakers-casp211na

They are worse than a set of studio monitors and a dedicated subwoofer, but if you don't want to put in the 2 minutes of effort they still sound good.

As for number 5 on your list, THX certification is pretty much pointless. Speakers can either cover a certain frequency and keep a fairly flat response or not.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x2

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW

If you reconsider the DIY method, you can purchase that stuff along with 2 standard RCA cables and be done in minutes.

First of all, thanks, I'm gonna bookmark those banana plugs for next time I need to buy some. Extra safety = awesome.

I agree that full metal banana plugs are kind of nuts. I use these Sewells which are mostly plastic and are awesome or if I'm using full metal banana plugs I tape or shrink wrap them for insulation.

In case we yank the cable from the speaker end, it is almost guaranteed
to form a short circuit and then only the amplifiers protection circuit can
save it. There is also high likelihood that when that happens and the
amplifier is set to high gain

Yeah and no. It's not quite as bad as you say, is it? Music is very peaky; even with music playing there's usually like 1W or less actually being sent to the speakers even if you have a powerful amp. And if no music is playing, it's essentially 0W.

I've accidentally touched the plugs together a bunch of times, because I'm an idiot. If no music is playing nothing happens. If music is playing the receiver/amp has always flipped right over to protection mode. (Eventually, yeah, I learned from my mistakes and that's why I use the insulated plugs now)

Not dumb at all.

The new Cinema Displays (when they went LED, so ~2008) all use mini-DisplayPort (mDP) cables for video to the monitor as well as USB for the USB hub, audio, camera and other build-in features. Essentially, if you have a DisplayPort or mDP on your graphics card, you can usually plug-and-play directly to the monitor. I just plug it into the mDP on my GTX690 and it picks it up. In fact, if you have a DisplayPort on your card, you just get an adapter which allows you to convert from DP -> mDP and it also work great. From there, I installed Brightness Controller which, similar to OSX, allow you to completely control the brightness of the monitor via keystroke. Its great for late-night gaming or movie watching when you want to turn all the lights out.

@OP, this is the best approach and what worked for me, I have an older USB extension cable (just a 3ft male-to-female USB cable, something like this... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn_tr_lp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8011851592090061987&pd_rd_wg=jCbR6&pf_rd_r=DVEH1AHD133DNTZW9REC&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00NH11R3I&pd_rd_w=JFXcW&pf_rd_i=usb+extension+cable+3ft&pd_rd_r=1270d36a-3c5b-405d-8fb3-2149487b3e33&ie=UTF8&qid=1526999446&sr=2)

My understanding is that the cable wiring is USB2.0 compliant and not USB3.0 and so physically limits the port to a USB2.0 connection effectively forcing the 3.0/2.0/1.1 capable port into 2.0 'backward compatibility mode'. As u/Vindalo0 said, it makes no performance difference if you use a USB2.0 extension cos it will be limited to 2.0 no matter what port you use (unless you can find a USB1.1!). You should pick the length of the extension cable run to allow you to move the adapter to the best location to pick up the BT radio signals from your controllers, line of sight would be ideal but just getting it away from the birds nest of wires behind the PC is a great start.

Adding the center gives a 3.1 setup, but that sounds like a great start.

I have never used Zone 2, but you would want a nice set of bookshelf speakers that would be 2.0 setup in another room.

I've only used 16 gauge.

100 ft 16 gauge wire - $25

Wire Stripper $7

Optional: Banana Plugs $18

Subwoofer Cable $10

I actually just bought a PS3 last week and had the same questions. Thankfully, while I had no help from others I figured it out myself.

I have a Dell LCD monitor (1920x1080) that I connect to my PS3 with and a set of speakers for audio output.

Mine works perfectly fine and I have never had any problems with display (or any of the horror stories that you mentioned.)

I do not have MW3, but I do have many games that output video from 720p to 1080i to 1080p and they all work fine and look completely natural as you would expect.

Pieces of hardware that you will need:
A HDMI to DVI cable, a 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2X RCA Female Adapter or Y splitter as some people call it, and female stereo coupler if you are going to plug it into a speaker instead of your PC. If just using PC speakers, then you do not need a coupler.

As for monitor recommendations, chose any that have a 1920x1080 resolution and has a DVI connector (most modern monitors should have this as default).

Hope this helps!


Edit: If you have any questions, feel free to ask! I remember how confused I was trying to set everything up.

You can't daisy chain HDMI monitors.

Your options are to see if your laptop manufacturer has a first party docking station that has 3 outputs, or you could get a third party dock like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Universal-Docking-Station-Ethernet/dp/B00ECDM78E

The last option would be to get a couple of USB Video cards like these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/


Good luck.

Also, is it worth getting a set of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-29863-12-Deadbolt-12-Pair/dp/B006U3O566/

I think they will work with the Dennon but I wanted to make sure. I really need to pull everything apart and clean up the wire runs and I thought having good connectors would help. Right now just the bare wires going into back of receiver. Any other suggestions for cleaning up wire runs in general? I have a crap-ton of stuff in my TV cabinet - PS3, cable box, receiver, airport extreme, two network hard drives, headphone remote receiver, power strip, etc....

Solved! Anker's SATA to USB Adapter kinda sucks. I've had quite a few problems out of it but felt the drive spinning and assumed it'd be working. Nope, tested my docking station and it detects all of the drives perfectly fine.

Lastly, is there a way to check the health of a drive? (with MacOS/Disk Utility) Something similar to SMART.

No, that shouldnt be necessary, the 6+2's will work, just take the +2 off. And I had the same issue, I have the same PSU but no big companies make sleeved cables for it. I would recommend these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

silverstone cable extensions, theyre cheap, work with any PSU and look great, just attach them to the end of the black evga cables from your psu. Have them in my system and love them.

I'm waiting on an order of this monitor from Acer.
I bought this monitor because it has USB-C support and I plan on upgrading to the new MacBook Pro some time in the future.

At the moment my MacBook Pro does not have USB-C, so my question is what is the best way to connect to this monitor (preferentially using it's USB hub functionality).
Should I use a Mini Display to Display port cable, like this one?
Or should I buy an adapter like this and connect over USB C? If I do this, is the power supplied by the monitor not going to damage the thunderbolt 2 port on my MacBook Pro?

I bring the coils out to banana jacks then use Sewell banana plugs and don't see any issues. I used a thermal camera to watch the plugs after I put them in and they didn't get warm at all, so minimal IR drop across the plugs. I did use a screwdriver to bend the 'legs' out on the plug a little so that it was a very tight fit.


You can go big baller style with SMD magnetic terminals

As far as the interface to the sub itself, mine has terminals with allen keys and I soldered the other end to the tab on the terminals(removing the tab from the terminal first so I didn't melt the plastic cups).

Where exactly are you thinking about using ring connectors?

In a previous install I just used threaded rod through the box with fender washers and ring terminals. Solder is best, a high compression union second best. Banana jacks are ok for not too much power.

A ring terminal is fine if you crimp it good, put some anti oxidant on the unions and wrench down on it.

You can also use quick disconnects like this

Don't sweat it. People on /r/buildapc and /r/cablemanagement are like cable management pros. My first builds were god awful for cable management.

I recommend velcro straps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI5YW4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zip Ties

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OK7P3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fan Y Splitter

http://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CX8X7PFV070T22D69YW

I just did a quick search on amazon for the fan y spliter. I'm sure if you do a bit of research you can find a better deal.

Hi Retropug, I have a Hades Canyon NUC8i7HVK 8809G hooked up to an Apple Thunderbolt Display using USB C.

The cables I'm using are:

1. Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter
   
2. Apple Thunderbolt Cable
   
   Some notes:
   
   

• The Thunderbolt Display did not work the first time it was plugged in. Used a HDMI monitor to find this driver: Thunderbolt™ Bus Driver for Windows® 10 64-bit for Intel® NUC Kit NUC8i7HNK, NUC8i7HVK to get it going.
  
• After installing the Intel Thunderbolt driver and getting the Thunderbolt Display working, there was a notification "this Thunderbolt device is not certified for PC use" each time I started up Windows 10. The notification can be switched it off using Notifications & Actions under "Thunderbolt Software".
  
• If the Thunderbolt cable is disconnected from the Thunderbolt Display it may take a few cable reinsertions into the display to get it to work again.
  
• Volume adjustments work fine, but I cannot figure out how to adjust screen brightness. The default brightness is not unpleasant though.
  
  Hope that helps!

You can get a Y-Splitter- https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW and connect 2->1. I have my two radiator fans on CPU1 and my two intakes on CPU2; I have a fractal R5 so pretty much the same setup as the define C. I would suggest getting one high quality silent wings 3 PWM high speed fan now and save up for another when you can. Better off getting 1 high quality fan than 2 eh fans, ie like stock

Those would work fine. I only use these and it works fine. Although I use a different setup to split my sound. Those only split my video. But the splitters you linked should work just fine :)

Come to think of it I should probably get the splitters you linked for myself aswell, my setup atm is absurd lol, I just grabbed everything I had at home at the time haha

Alright mate so their controllers will probably be plugged into the speakers via RCA cable (one red, one white), you’ll want an RCA to 3.5mm jack cable to plug in to your phone. Like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4pXAb4XC0DP4

Might not be correct as I’m still a newbie but that cable has the same connections as the back of my controller and will plug into your phone, so you can literally take the cable out the back of their controller then plug it into that cable from amazon then your phone

Hope that helps!

Ok a few points, RCA is the connector type. A male plug is the one you insert into a female plugs. (go figure) A Y splitter looks like A Y and has one input and two outputs. So A RCA with two male ends and a female looks like this You need at least two depending on if your using S-video or not.
Which S-video is the same deal as a splitter.

S-video is like composite but has greater signal separation, if your using a genuine nintendo cable this is recommended as color and definition will be better. If it's a cheaper reproduction they may have used composite video as luma/sync and you may get crosshatching. But better quality on stream and picture. The one below and to the right of your RED on composite on your TV. It doesn't transmit audio so you still need the white and red or L and R audio split.

Anyway after that you may just need a simple extension cord that you can plug the extra male end into to the female on the TV or the GV-USB2 so one male and one female end. If you have spare RCA cables around you can probably get a gender changer for cheaper.

Edit: You can probably also get 1M 2F Y and plug it in using a standard MM cable actually, that would be cheaper.
Edit2: Had the 2M 1F link description backwards.

Like posted by justathoughtfromme, you can use any RCA cables and they will work fine. I have a Vizio set and it will fit any type you care to use. What I found easier (and cheaper) was to use regular speaker wire and rca adapter clips. I needed extra long cables and this worked best for me.

You can use the Elgato HD60 to capture N64. Source: I use the Elgato HD60 to capture n64. My Setup is:

N64 -> 3 AV Splitters (One for each cable) link
Each AV Splitter is plugged into the Elgato component input as well as an AV to HDMI converter link

note: The AV to HDMI converter is not necessary if your TV has component inputs. The TV I play on does not, so I need this converter to upscale to HDMI.

The Elgato is then plugged into my computer, which captures the video. The quality overall is fine, you can check out my vods to see samples (twitch username is same as here). Let me know if you have any more questions about my setup. Not saying the GVUSB isn't a way to go, it's probably better overall, but since you already have the Elgato, just wanted to share how I got it working :)

The problem you have with not being able to hear your friend is because the headset adapter is taking control of chat. If you only have the mic going into the adapter and you are getting audio from some place else you will not hear voice chat. The audio has to come out of the adapter as well.

I think this is what you have yes? http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/itemDetails/T777-1066/T777-1066-out04-kg.jpg

If that is the case and you are not afraid of a bunch of cables coming out of your controller here is a possible solution:

You will need the previously mentioned cable http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u.W7tb0EYW852 you can plug the pink mic cable right into the mic end of that cable.

For the audio you need to turn your 3 other cables into a single stereo 3.5 with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0006U3ACY

in conjunction with one of these http://www.showmecables.com/product/3-5mm-Stereo-Mini-Plug-to-Dual-RCA-Plugs-6-IN.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=933&zmam=49733141&zmac=5&zmas=1&zmap=933&gclid=Cj0KEQjwgryfBRDn7cvY-pOit4cBEiQAB3nTbmJWQ7KJtba5nFTz0sX8K-fmBK5eu1LdzGdDV-EYz3oaAoz_8P8HAQ (you can find them longer)

You can even use the cable you said you already purchased so all of the cable mess doesn't have to hang directly off the controller.

Hope this helps.


Edit: you can also find this type of cable in just about any length if you need to extend the mic cable. http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY-STR35-CBL6-Stereo-Extension-Female/dp/B0017T9XDI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408228231&sr=1-7&keywords=3.5+extension+cable

oh. yep, male to male RCA and some speaker wire will be needed.

dont get tricked into expensive "fancy" rca's either. for a small distance there wont be much difference.

something like this would be perfect https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=lp_597546_1_8?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468903801&sr=1-8

edit: same with speaker wire, dont need expensive stuff just get decent 14 gauge or whatever fits your speaker terminals. and i always put some of these on my speaker wire, cause it makes things much easier if you have to unplug anything. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9ALE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468903981&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+plugs

So the AVR has two of different kinds of connections you can use.

Pre-outs (the RCA connectors) send the signal but not with enough power/amplification to actually drive the speakers. If you use the pre-outs you will need a separate amplifier (like his Rotel 976, or just a Audiosource AMP100VS for 2 channels) that is hooked up to the AVR pre-outs by RCA cables and connected to the speakers via regular speaker wire (AVR pre-out --> Amplifier --> Speakers).

Your AVR also has outputs that use its built in amplification and as such do not require any additional amplifier, these are the speaker posts on the right side. Your AVR can power up to 7 speakers, which you could set up as a 7 channel system in one room/zone or as a system with up to 5 channels in one zone and 2 in the other. The AVR settings will have something called "amp assign" which will let you set whether you're using those surround back connections as speakers in the main room or as separate zone 2 speakers.

For your situation it sounds like using the speaker binding posts (2nd option) would be the best way to hook everything up. Connect your main speaker set to the first 2 to 5 sets of binding posts depending on how many speakers you have, then connect the 2 speakers in the 2nd room to surround back L/R and "amp assign" them to be zone 2. This can all be done with regular speaker wire, no extra connectors or amps required (although sometimes people like to use banana plugs just for convenience).

The main reason to use the pre-outs would be if you wanted 7 channels in one room and 2 channels in another. In that situation you'd need to get an external amp to drive the extra 2 speakers since the AVR only has 7 channels of amplification internally.

Here is a video I made demoing my NC Nexus 7 install. It is very basic now. I wanted to see how little I need to get audio working. It isw working better that I expected. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

Edit 1:
Parts and pricing(includes shipping) list:

• 2(you only need 1) of these 12v to 5v converter - ~$13 for 2
  
• 1 Right angle OTG cable- $5.75
  
• 1 Male to Male USB cable - $5.00
  
• 1 Metra Din Kit - $21.12
  
• 1 Right angle AUX Cable - $10.43
  
• 1 Female to Female aux coupler - $4.33
  
• 1 Male aux to female RCA cable - $4.50
  
• 1 Male RCA to speaker wire cable - $9.36
  
• 1 Metra wiring harness - $13.37
  
• 1 Pack Command hooks - $9.00
  
• 1 Anti-glare screen protector - $5.95
  
  Total: $88.81 + the cost of a Nexus (2012) which is about $150-$180 depending on which configuration you get. (Note: Timur's ROM only works with Nexus 7 2012)
  
  So $238-$268 grand total.
  
  I also bought a wire stripping and crimping kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7GRCI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  And a Dremel for cutting the metra bezel and the command hooks
  
  
  I also rooted my Nexus 7 and installed Timur's rom. That was a headache and not needed because you can duplicate the functionality by using Tasker, a Nexus 7 task scheduling app. But to install Timur's ROM basically you need to unlock the bootloader, install TWRP recovery, then install Timur's USB Host ROM. That ROM gives you the ability to plug USB devices like thumb drives into the Nexus 7. It also gives you the option to put the tablet into deep sleep when you turn your car off.

Here's what I would do:

• Get an AV switcher with HDMI and with an analogue audio out.
  Something like this
  
  
• Get a game system adapter for your speakers.
  Something like this
  
  
  
• Get an HDMI display port adapter WITH AUDIO OUT for your macbook pro.
  Something like this
  
  
  
• Hook your PS4 into switcher via HDMI
  
  
• Hook your mac into switcher via HDMI utilizing your display port adapter, set the audio to send through HDMI.
  
  
• Hook your speakers up to the switcher's analogue audio out with RCA (red and white) from switcher, then into the game system adapter, and the game system adapter into the 3 audio input channels on the Logitech speakers using 3 STEREO 1/8 inch male to male "headphone" cords. A stereo cable will have 2 black "lines" on the cables termination, each "line" is a contact for a single channel. Instead of decoding the signal, the Logitech speakers use 1 contact for each channel and the computer decodes the signal. That's why there is left/ right on top, rear left/ right in middle, and center/ subwoofer on the bottom.
  
  
• Hook your switcher into your TV with HDMI
  
  
  edit: I still don't know if this would give you true 5.1 surround. ProLogic maybe. Maybe there is a switcher that has the same output as a computer sound card (3 headphone cord audio output) so you can go directly into the speakers.

What do you think about two of these with an EVGA 550 GS power supply? Are these things plug and play, as I know that if you try something like Corsair sleeved cables on an EVGA PSU it can break some parts, and vice versa etc. Are extensions safe to use?

EDIT: Just read up on it now, apparently it's compatible with all PSUs. Just a little cautious just in case lol.

Hey everyone!

Hoping to get some help with setting up my 5.1 system. I've been told to use connector like this

But I'm needing help understanding how to get everything correctly wired since my house came with pre-wired surround sound without speakers. Here's a few pictures of the setup

I may be wrong, but it appears that you have both your GPUs daisy-chained through the same cables. You will want to remedy that by having each plug in each GPU plugged with its own power cable. So you will need 4 power cables going to your GPUs.

Also it looks like one of your CPU cooler fans is plugged into your motherboard via fan header. Instead, you may want to get this so you can have both fans controlled by CPU fan header.

Other than that, solid build.

You're pretty much out of luck. If you were using a small 1080p tv, it'd be a different story
Although, now that i think about it there's likely a way to get the audio from the rca connectors to a 3.5mm jack
 
E: Yeah, you'd need something like this
So what you'd do is just plug in the video connector to the hdmi adapter, and then connect the audio connectors into the adapter, and then connect it to speakers

Sounds like using an extension cable from a 2.0 port might take care of it for you then. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=twister_B00SIT9PRO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Though I haven't used that so I can't say it will definitely work.

You're welcome for the details response. Here are some accessories that I would consider.

Speakers wire $18 - You'll need this to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

Banana Plugs $18 - This makes the connection easier and cleaner IMO. They aren't needed but make stuff cool.

Speaker stands $40 - These allow the speakers to be set at the right height and allow them to be in the room as opposed to on furniture. No needed but recommended.

Yup, it does! From Apple Support (https://support.apple.com/kb/sp649?locale=en_US)

>Dual display and video mirroring: Simultaneously supports full native resolution on the built-in display and up to 2560 by 1600 pixels on an external display, both at millions of colors

I'd recommend using a mini-DP to DP cable since it can support higher resolutions and refresh rates (up to 4K a@ 60Hz) than HDMI. We use this Monoprice cable that's about $6 for testing our high resolution (1440p or higher) monitors.

is your sub working ok? I had to use a splitter with a Yamaha receiver because I could barely hear it and had to turn it all the way up, so there was some problem clearly. Adding a splitter is definitely not needed but it can help.

A y splitter will add ~6dB so it can certainly add some headroom. This is the kind of thing I mean - https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW

Thank you for the links. I just want to be sure I understand the products you are linking me to. The first one is basically 2 convertor boxes and you would plug a short hdmi cable from the splitter into an input box, then in lieu of using the 50 ft hdmi cable, you would use a fiber optics cable through the wall to connect the 2 boxes together, then plug another short hdmi cable from the output box into the TV.
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1505843153&sr=8-16&keywords=hdmi%2Bextender&th=1

If so, it'd be kind of pricey to set it up using these as I would need 2. Any chance of getting better 50' hdmi cables fixing this?

What you can do, if you don't mind lag (gaming wise, it's ok for browsing etc), is buying a miracast dongle (Microsoft's example) use the hdmi output for one of the displays, while simultaneously casting to the second display using the dongle.

Do check if your laptop supports miracast though. If in the "project to" menu, you have a "connect to a wireless display" option, it does.

As far as I know, the splitter that ggagagg suggested only duplicates a single signal to two screens, and the ability to daisy chain screens using a single output is only available to Apple's thunderbolt.

Wow I've never heard of those before and it looks like that is exactly what I need. Thanks so much! I'll be getting these.

banana plugs are great! i use these and they work awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9ALE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518200238&sr=8-3&keywords=mediabridge+banana+plugs&dpID=41jW82i7THL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The only way to get surround sound out of PS4 is by using either the HDMI or the optical out port. You can use all the cables and adapters you want, but 3.5mm jack and RCA cables will only produce stereo sound splitted among the speakers.

If you're happy to have stereo sound, you could get something like this

For the PS3 , you can use an RCA to 3.5mm converter


http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1322799149&sr=8-5

As for your TV box / DVR or whatever you can use the same thing, I dunno if you want to get 2 of them or just swap back and forth or what but I have it for my PS3 and it works pretty good

Yes, Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini Displayport as it's physical Connector, Thunderbolt 3 switched to a superset of USBC.

Thunderbolt 1/2 to Thunderbolt 3 Adapter

Best way to think about Thunderbolt, It's a port that let's you access a PCIe 3.0 X4 Slot (at 22Gbps) inside your computer + 10Gbps USB Gen 2 + 8-12Gbps of Displayport bandwidth. (Yes it's way over 40Gbps, which is true, and yes the PCIe bandwidth is limited to 22Gbps, even though it's PCIe 3.0 X4 (Which is 32Gbps) you only get 22Gbps, although, it's possible that could change with future revisions, PCIe 4.0/5.0 CXL)

Thunderbolt = Access to high speed bandwidth, no other port can do that.

You need the dazzle and a couple splitters (if you want to play on the tv). With that you can use obs (open broadcast software) to stream.

edit: I doesn't have to be a dazzle. Cosmo uses this one for n64:

http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415515983&sr=1-1&keywords=i-o+data+gv-usb2

the splitters can be found at:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4L6UO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with the splitters you will need a male to male av cables:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Audio-Video-Composite-Cable/dp/B001VJ465O/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KV4BF0YP4E0PYEC1A0T

To get the capture card to work on obs, you create your scene and source a video capture device. You need to make sure all the drivers are installed for the capture card.

Other than the capture card linked, elgato makes good ones, dazzle, and there are probably others. DO NOT BUY CHEAP CAPTURE CARDS. They are shit, trust me.

Pretty clean build! :)

Have you considered getting an extension for the PCI-E cable, so you don't have the extra connectors hanging down there?

Yeah rooting and using one of these would probably be your best bet.

Here's a guide on how to enable Miracast support after you've rooted.

Very helpful, thanks.

So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?

Would something like this work well? Link.

EDIT: Or should I get a fan controller, so it works better with PWM fans? Link.

No. That is not possible. The keyboard will have to be connected to the PC itself. Depending on your router, the USB ports on the router can be used for sharing a flash drive, external HDD, or even a USB printer.


Why do you want to connect with the router though? Did you want to make the USB dongle for the keyboard further away from the other USB ports or connect from longer distance? If so, you could probably try using a USB extension cable such as this one, and maybe connect from further away a little by having the receiver a bit closer to you, but I'd recommend doing the other things like checking interference, trying another computer, and/or trying another keyboard first. You could try it if you want though.

Yeah they're all compatible. Instead of a fan controller you may want to just get a splitter. They use 1 header to control 2 fans, so you could connect 2 fans to 1 header, and its much cheaper than a controller if you only want 4 fans. I'm doing this with my fans right now.

If you do this though don't be surprised that a pin is missing off one of the ends lol, I almost returned mine because I thought if broke off but it comes like that because it can only use the data from one fan for software that controls fans.

I just found one here for $5 you might be able to get one cheaper though
http://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW

Forgot to add that fans come with 2,3, and 4 pins. They are all compatible with each other. There's a slot on the back of the connector that lines up with the slot on the MOBO so you won't have to worry about where the pins go.

Yeah, that's a great case. supports up to 2 280mm radiators if you want water cooling. If you don't have enough fan headers on your mobo (just zoom in on an image of it to find out), you can always get a splitter

You're talking about something like this, right?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y

It should work. I set a USB to VGA up for someone on their laptop ages ago and it worked surprisingly well.

That said, if this is a desktop you're probably better off putting in a video card. These things are mostly meant for laptops that don't have that option.

I don't think you can get around having to use a dongle of sorts, but any miracast dongle should do the trick. They're usually powered by usb, and since most tv's these days have them then you never have to see any extra wires. Microsoft made one themselves: Amazon

There's a few different ones, like ASUS or Belkin but I think miracast is only for Windows 8/8.1. Maybe there's a workaround for Windows 7. Might be the same with the Microsoft dongle.

All this is wireless of course, and you would just have to output to external display. Hope that puts you on the right track at least!

There's this, but it's out of stock for awhile. I did see some third party sellers on Amazon still have it in stock, but YMMV. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=29434 You'll need a display port to mini-dp adapter as well. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY

Actually it didn't, that was an amazon special.

Here you go: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJQ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the GPU one as well, in case you were interested: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want to control my fan RPM. Are these fan splitters compatible with my motherboard? I'm hoping to use the included NZXT H440 fans and buy these two fans for top exhaust. Is everything OK?

A note on the case: The Corsair Spec 02 has a black/red theme and comes with 3 red LED case fans. It's also an ATX case so it would be better for future upgrades. It was also $50 last time I checked.

Another more important note: Both of theses cases come with at least 2 fans, and the build listed has 2 fans. The Gigabyte H110M-A only has one header for powering fans from the motherboard. I would recommend getting this, because it will allow you to power 2 fans off 1 header.

You need to buy 2 different dongles.

You have to buy an [Apple USB-C to Thunderbolt 2] (https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MMEL2AM-Thunderbolt-Usb-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518674008&sr=8-3&keywords=apple+usb+c+to+thunderbolt+2&dpID=21TovN-97mL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) adapter and an [Apple Thunderbolt 2 to Firewire] (https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-to-Firewire-Adapter/dp/B00SQ2CJUS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518674052&sr=8-1&keywords=apple+thunderbolt+2+to+firewire) adapter.

Although I've never tried it personally, I heard it works. You can do a quick Google search and find that some people have had success going this route.

Good luck!

Oh you didn't want wires. Woops.

Your best bet is probably a Miracast device.

Such as this microsoft dongle

If you need wireless apple support, your easiest solution looks like an Apple TV. There are other ways, but they, like a chromecast, involve having people download shit.

EDIT: Or you could build a tiny computer to act as a server for something like Airserver

If/when you decide to make your own: for speaker cables, these banana plugs work pretty great - add wire to taste.

Yes. You actually don’t even need an enclosure unless you want it to look nice. A USB to SATA cable is all you need. Something like this

Ok, here is a good monitor for a really good price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236154&cm_re=displayport_monitors-_-24-236-154-_-Product

And you will need this cable:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

when it comes to video scources(with todays tech) you always want to go wired. in my expierance wirelss never works and is unrelaible even in the expensive options. but hdmi to ethernet adapters are affordable like this one. ive used them before and they work well. but if your stuck on wireless, id reccomend the extron elink 100, this one uasually works if the 2 point have line of sight if they can see each other and nothing comes between them they will uasually stay connected but it is something youd have to check every time you try to use the video scource. but like i said if you want reliablilty always go wired.

• A 50' Roll of this
  
• A Pair of these to strip it
  
• These to install on the ends of the speaker cable for ease-of-use
  
• One of these for your "Subwoofer"
  
  And don't be like every other neophyte here and just JAM the speakers super close together on your entertainment unit... you need to get your bookshelves about as far apart from each other, as you are sitting from them... so get some stands too.
  
  ​
  
  These are affordable and adjustable.
  
  ​
  
  ​

This?

Edit: you might be best off going with the above and a converter like this, since there doesn't seem to be any single cable fitting your specifications.

I just bought these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V0CRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFC9ALE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

the build quality seems to be quite good and they were easy to use.

Are they regular 2.5" SATA SSDs, or does it use something special? (if you don't know, what equipment is it?)

If it is, there are a bunch of options you could use, from just an adapter cable that plugs into the end of the drive like this http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converter-2-5-inch-Supports-Included/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453903504&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+3.0+2.5%22+dock

up to multi port docks that you can just slide the drive into, and can also take 3.5" hard drives as well as 2.5" drives, such as this http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converter-2-5-inch-Supports-Included/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453903504&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+3.0+2.5%22+dock

Not Wi-Fi but the best I could think of is. And bear in mind this is Totally Theorerical. You could get a pair of Ethernet over Power Line adapters (best rated you can find) and then do HDMI over ethernet with a set of converters. In Theory this should give you enough bandwidth for 4k if your electrical wiring is half decent.

Ethernet over Power
TP-Link AV1200 Power Line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QYTS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dyEhAbCXSTHD7

Hdmi over Ethernet
J-Tech Digital Hdmi Extender By Single Cat 5E/6/7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OzEhAbZK031FP

So I am connecting a Thorens TD 165 to this:

Pioneer SX-750 https://classicreceivers.com/pioneer-sx-750

then going from pioneer receiver to these speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PATXSI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I am connecting the speakers to the receiver using speaker wire, and these adapters https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYV4AWL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

so essentially I use those adapters to connect to back of speakers, from the speaker out connections on back of receiver. But there is a loud hum, and sound just has issues. I tried with another turntable, and could never establish solid connection. I assume its something to do with connection/adapters. Do I need an EQ of some kind, to connect the old school receiver to the new speakers that only have RCA connections? Any help is appreciated.

Hard to tell without looking at the back of the receiver, but those two RCA's are most likely input cables. Your TV audio out is optical or 3.5mm. Try a cheap 3.5mm to RCA female cable. Plug 3.5 mm into your phone, and RCA female into those RCA cables. Once you have everything plugged in, play music on your phone and set receiver volume to ~50% and phone volume to ~75%. Cycle through all of the inputs on the receiver. Once you find the one that works, move the 3.5mm cable from your phone into the "audio" port on your TV and you will be good to go.

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW

Plenty of options.

banana connectors they will plug into most terminal cups on speaker boxes

bullet connectors very similar to banana plugs


Anderson connectors
I like these best as it doesn’t leave an exposed wire

I agree with you, and USB extenders are super cheap although it's nice that the Vive lighthouses have mount points.

The Oculus cameras are a cleaner design... which means no good mounting points.

> CPU doesnt have that many slots for fans.

Did you mean your motherboard ?

You can just buy a couple of Y fan cables from amazon rather than getting another mobo for fan headers.

Y Fan cables

USB "graphics cards" with audio support is your best option as HDMI soundcards sadly is not a thing.

I currently have this one and it supports 5.1 audio.

If you just need stereo, the slim adapter is a cheaper alternative.

There was a post a few months back about how someone attached their Z-Wave stick to a USB coord extender (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I)

There was something with interference or what not, but I did it and it greatly improved my Z-Wave network. My lock showed up as dead all the time and now it never does. I would highly recommend giving this a try before anything else.

I had a couple of these fans (Antec and Cooler Master) laying on my workbench, so I took my multimeter to them. Both had ~260mA draw.

The simplest approach would be to wire them in a "parallel circuit": In other words, all of the red (positive) wires from each fan connect at a single point, and all of the black (neutral) wires from each fan connect at another single point. (You can leave any yellow or blue wires alone, since they're used for speed sensing & pulse modulation.)

Because this is a parallel circuit (as opposed to a series) we calculate the necessary amperage: 6 fans * 260mA = 1560mA, or 1.56A.

Find yourself an old 12v AC adapter / "wallwart" that can deliver at least 1.6A or greater.

If all you can find is a 1.5A adapter, then lose 1 fan. Otherwise you'll overdraw, and you then run the risk of overheating the adapter, which either leads up to it failing or burning your house down.

Now simply cut the end off, and strip the ends of both wires.

Rather than cutting the plugs off the fans and losing the ability to use them in a future PC, you can inexpensively pick up a splitter online or at most computer shops, and cut the end off the splitter instead.

Now to the actual connection:

• The red wire from the fans (or from the splitter) is positive: These all connect to the AC adapter wire that has white lines (either solid or dashed) on it.
  
  
• The black wire from the fans is ground/neutral, and connects to the unmarked AC adapter wire.
  
  Twist your wire ends together and/or solder them, wrap them in electrical tape, and then to be extra sure wrap over that again in plastic duct tape. (Electrical tape tends to get slippery after awhile, IMO.)
  
  Plug it in and enjoy.
  
  edit: clarity

What you'll need to do is run RCA y-splitters. Say that you use your computer's headphone jack right now. That means you probably use a 3.5mm (headphone jack) to RCA cable. What you'll need to do is split each end of the RCA cable into two. Then you will have one set of red/white run to your Arions and the other set of red/white run to your subwoofer.

The only downside to this is that your speakers will still play "full range." That is, try to play the notes that the subwoofer should only be playing. This can be handled by finding out what frequency your Arions can physically play down to. That spec is listed on their site as 60Hz. That means, you will need to set your subwoofer's "low pass frequency" setting to 60Hz. This ensures that there is no overlap between what your speakers play and what your sub will play (speaking simply).

I'll attach a schematic of what I just said in a minute.

EDIT: http://imgur.com/AhKLCW5

the solution is displayport,Mobo in build above has it.

If your TV does not have a displayport you can use an active dp to hdmi 2.0a adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS or this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017BQ8I54&pd_rd_r=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5&pd_rd_w=uMnWY&pd_rd_wg=9rDBd&psc=1&refRID=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5 and then an hdmi 2.0 cable

Pretty much any will work, all they do is split the voltage.

Since they're pretty cheap, I'd go with a PWM Y splitter over a 3 pin (in case you get PWM fans in the future).

Example - https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW

The connection for the sub could be a problem. Normally a single mono RCA cable will connect the sub pre-out on the back of the receiver to the sub-in on the BIC. That’s not to say there isn’t a way to convert the wiring without having to pull another cable. I’ve not tried this myself but it looks like Amazon has a set of RCA wire converters here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYV4AWL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mr6YzbVDMS2N6

Again, I’ve only ever used mono RCA so I can’t say for sure if this will work.

Thanks for the reply! I'm using these which are pretty reputable brand.

I have that same exact monitor, running on a Mac Pro. You need to use a Thunderbolt to DisplayPort cable, or I think it's properly called a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable. Like this

I'm able to run at 144hz on both OSX and Windows (bootcamp), and it is lovely.

LINK

They're Silverstone Tek Sleeved Extensions, they have most cables available in red white and black. They're not amazing quality but I think they look great for the price especially compared to custom sleeved cables.

and the paragon ntfs driver is free for 10 days of use which should be plenty of time for you to copy over your files.

I have an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-SATA-Portable-Adapter-Supports/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014OSN2VW&pd_rd_r=b76f6671-301a-48f6-b944-c22a8976ee56&pd_rd_w=SY5Ms&pd_rd_wg=WJWzw&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=76DBJ5N9GF3QC3B69191&psc=1&refRID=76DBJ5N9GF3QC3B69191

​

IF you wanted to, you could an external usb enclosure for the hdd and use it as an external usb hdd for storage or backup.

I contacted Wacom support and they told me to try this adapter https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2MDPMF6IN-DisplayPort-Video-Adapter/dp/B003N3DTKY and that it should be 100% recommended while the other cable is not so I'll see if it helps.

Edit: also I just plugged the usb from the wacom adapter to my pc's usb 3.0 slot

Many laptops will only support 2 displays due to GPU limitations. A dock may be your best option, but a USB to video adapter might work as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FIGUBb69MJ4PN

If you can deal with a smaller form factor, the Gigabyte P34Wv5 would be the way to go if you want to keep the machine professional looking. You can also get much better battery life out of these smaller machines. It's still 14", so it's not a huge loss, just 1.6" of display size difference.

However, I don't think you'd want to have multiple displays all the same size as the laptop's. I like to connect mine to externals. You could get two of these, then put the laptop off to the side. or get 3 and connect one via USB. It has VGA, HDMI, and multiple USB ports, so you have a lot of options there.

A little late to the game but I got mine from an Amazon seller, here, and received it very quickly. Hopefully shopRBC is selling it at a comparable price.

If you're feeling up to running some cat6 - you can always get one of these (and some cable):

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523337226&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=hdmi+extender&psc=1

If you get an extra 21.1 remote (or repurpose the current tv2 remote, just sacrificing control of tv2), you can actually program it to operate tv1. You just have to flip the little number (after taking off the battery cover) to "1" and make sure the little toggle is set to "uhf". (the benefit of this being you wont need line of site to operate tv1)

Flip open the cover on the front of your receiver and hit "system info" then hit record on your newly repurposed 21.1 remote to pair the remote with your receiver.

Yes, if you get a sling adapter you should be able to see most if not all of your subscribed channels using dish anywhere - basically it uses your internet connection to upload compressed live straight from your receiver, over the internet, to wherever it is you are - so having a decent upload speed can help - at least 250kb or so upload will work for the mobile app.

https://www.mydish.com/dish-anywhere/sling-adapter

Just be aware that the 722k is pretty much an obsolete receiver at this point - the only people eligible to get it are people who have it and get it replaced because it stopped working - or customers who have the older 525 and do a migration.

An alternative is to get the hopper, but only get it for two tv's. Get a wifi joey - it costs the same per month as a regular tv and has only a one time "fee" of $25. You can then move that receiver throughout your house - just needs hdmi and power. This is usually your most economical choice if you want to pay for as few tvs as possible.

Oh, yeah just doing 1080p here. These are the ones I use, but they do have 4k ones that you don't need two ethernet ports for.

1080p w/o IR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1080p w/ IR: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0764KX3JR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The ones that support 4K are at-least twice the price basically and if you want HDR 4:4:4 and all that jazz.

Wow...thanks so much for the reminder! Last time I had a DK2 and had to use up my HDMI port for it (which my 4K TV is usually plugged into) I was forced to use an HDMI to DVI cable that I had on hand for my TV which gave me like 720p or 1080p or something with some terrible looking scaling...

Just bought this to plug in my Vive: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY


$6 shipped and I'll have it Friday. I love Amazon.

Hope you like dongles :-)

https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B01MQ26QIY

https://www.amazon.com/elago-FireWire-Adapter-MacBook-Computers/dp/B003L4P872

PS. I still doubt Sierra has support for AMD graphics in 2019 MBP, and without accelerated graphics this can cause lag, even in audio?!

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

link

link

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Before you go that route I have more questions. What videocard are you using becauses not all vcard outs support 60hz. My 1080sc didn't to my tcl 43" but DID work with a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter and then to a 10 foot hdmi. I helped another guy on here recently with the same issue. It's not always about length. Video cards are garbage for supporting 4k/60hz over hdmi but WILL over display port to hdmi. Cheaper route to try first. HERE And being that the ones they listed are for 1080p THIS is for 4k 60hz but I would still use the dp to hdmi in unison because 60hz from hdmi on videocard typically doesn't work by itself.

Hey, I have that exact gpu and I use this for my 4k display, and it works great. You have a kickass gpu should you want to explore keeping it!

yeah you're right. I had to change some of the exact products to work for Macbook.

So as of now, I'm running an Apple Thunderbolt 2 -- Thunderbolt 3 converter (because I have a 2015 macbook that has Thunderbolt 2). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQ26QIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That will go into a Thunderbolt 3 -- Dual HDMI adapter that is made to work with Macbook. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075T9ZQH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then there will be two HDMI cords going from that adapter into both monitors.

The HooToo will just connect with a USB C connection directly to the laptop so that I have easier USB and SD card connections. So I'm not having to put stuff in and take stuff out of the Macbook itself all the time.

Ever tried google?

Looks like it’s discontinued... [adapter](Logitech 5.1 Game Console Adapter Convert Rca Plugs To A Single 1/8 (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006U3ACY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pXpcBbFPG9DH7)

If your tv has stereo RCA you’ll need a standard cable. If your tv only has a line out, you’ll need a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable. Also easy to find on google.

How would you feel about something like this?

I’m hoping to have an easy reversal of it doesn’t pan out.

RCA plug

Or these

Yes, that's what I got. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But it's an add-on item, so you can only order it together with other items that total $25 or more. I'm sure any other adapter would work though.

Yeah, mine is a knockoff and it works fine. My speakers have an aux input that I can plug it into, but if not you might need a 3.5mm female to female adapter, and plug your speakers into it like you would with your computer.

20 meters is a long ways, most things would be not cheap - you'd probably look at some fibre. OK I just did a quick look on Amazon, not too badly priced for consumers, the ones we use at work are I think around 300$

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=psdc_3015395011_t1_B001PT1A7C

DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0a Active Adapter 4K@60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gXRFyb386V4FM

States in description Supports content protection formats HDCP 1.4 and HDCP 2.2

After some quick googling, I take it that something like this won't work: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monoprice-DisplayPort-1.2a-to-4K-HDMI-Active-Adapter-Black/48605165, or this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B6ZOMIS. Or will it? I'm asking this due to the fact that these, amongst others on Google's shopping site, are listed as active adapters...

I should also mention that

• DVI and HDMI are the same video signal, DVI can carry audio, but it's rarely used. This is why DVI to HDMI adapters are so easy, and cause no loss in quality.
  
• Additionally, DVI can contain a VGA signal in it, most computers will typically do this. Thus most DVI to VGA adapters are doing this, since actually converting a digital DVI/HDMI signal to analog VGA requires an expensive adapter. This means that HDMI to DVI to VGA will not work.
  
• Component is an analog signal that is similiar to VGA, but is missing a part, which is easily figured out by output device. Thus, Component to VGA, is fairly easy and cheap.
  
• Don't forget that you need to get audio from all these devices as well. This and This Would allow you to use a generic pair of headphones for almost any device.

You could try this adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Wireless-Display-Adapter-v1/dp/B00J9C2JDG.) with a digital monitor or TV along with a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. I have this logitech keyboard and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Touchpad-Internet-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468945681&sr=1-8&keywords=logitech+wireless+keyboard+and+mouse

Yea, both Zoom and Meet have in-app pickers for which devices to use. It's very easy.

No HDMI usually, I just use the laptop's screen. You can find USB to HDMI adapters that you can plug into the hub, there are also USB mini docks that do this kind of thing. Also class compliant.

For example, both of my laptops are USB-C, so I have a mini USB-C dock with all my VC stuff plugged into it.

For screen sharing, I just use the built in sharing that Zoom and Meet provide. No need to get complicated and try and do HDMI capture.

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQSZ68/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3+pin+fan+y+splitter&qid=1565607957&s=gateway&sr=8-5

This is an example of a y splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=3+pin+fan+hub&qid=1565607894&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This is an example of a fan hub.
They've dropped in price since I last looked. Not nearly as expensive as I thought.

It connects to a single fan header on your motherboard and powers the other connected fans at the same speed. You can use PWM fans to avoid running them all at 100% speed, be sure to connect the splitter or hub to a PWM connector for this to work.

You'll want a 4-pin pwm splitter or better yet a sata-powered fan hub (for more than 2 fans), if you use a splitter, just make sure the fans don't add up to more amps than a that single mb fan header can put out (usually 1-2 amps max (depending on the mb), but check with the manual).

There is definitely a solution. What you need is a balun at both ends. A balun will let you stream HDMI or audio or both over your ethernet cabling.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PWHP9VMFH2W8R9KXV2FS

Looks like you need make RCA connectors, like these,

Lollipop Speaker Wire Cable to Audio Male RCA Connector Adapter Jack Plug 10pcs/set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYV4AWL/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_ocY1Db4F2P6E9

Looks like your unit has RCA outs for speakers. So if your speaker wire doesn't have RCA males on them you are going to have add them. I would suggest something like this.

To clarify. You are going from the playstation to the monitor from [these] (http://sr.photos3.fotosearch.com/bthumb/CSP/CSP688/k18660421.jpg) cables. And then from there, you are taking an aux cable from the aux port of the monitor and plugging that into the Bose Companion set? If that is the case, I don't believe that is how that is designed to be used. You want this instead.

Hope this helps!

You need to use a fan splitter, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQSZ68/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463692239&sr=8-6&keywords=fan+splitter

You specifically need this:
> ACTIVE displayport to hdmi adapter

This is the one I have (UPTab DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0a Active Adapter 4K@60Hz) -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A passive adapter will work with 2 monitors, but to work with 3 you need an active adapter.

I can't tell you 100% for sure if it will work on your machine, but this is what got things working with 3 monitors at work.

I have the same setup. What I did was use the little adapter that changes the red/white to 3.5mm headphones jack and plug it in to either the line in port on my computer, which in turn shares the speakers between computer and xbox. You could also get one of these and just join the speaker cable with the adapter.

Ok So looking at what you have for a tv, The TV dose not have a displayport connection, and it very likely your 390x dose not have a hdmi 2.0 connection. You may need a converter that will convert a Displayport 1.2 to a hdmi 2.0 signal.

something like this, https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS

yeah, but pricey:
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIW/dp/B00B46XJ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517935401

or this one for a bit less: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-PCIBR/dp/B00H45K3M4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1517935401 EDIT: connector looks wrong

I have a few, they are well made. It's an 8 pin to 6+2 extension

I set up my 7.1 with these Sewell Deadbolt plugs. They are fantastic.

http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566

Any Miracast adapter should work, or a smart tv with miracast built in. I use the official (and overpriced) Microsoft adapter . It plugs into an HDMI and requires a powered USB as well for the extra juice, you can plug that into the TV accessory port or a wall socket. Really any Miracast dongle should do the trick.

The hdmi port on your computer is likely 1.4. If you have a display port, use that with a display port to hdmi 2.0 adapter.

I had the same issue. My 380x has 1 4 hdmi. Which can only do 4k @ 30 hz. But the display port can do 4k @ 60 hz.

So to make it work i got:

Cable

And

Adapter

Edit: also make sure the tv is set to allow 4k@60 on its ports. My X800D sony has an option called "enhanced mode", that i have to set for 60 hz at 4K on the hdmi ports.

Doesn't work like that. The only protocol that is capable of daisy-chaining is DisplayPort, and that's only supported on extremely high end monitors, and even then everything has to be DP, you can't mix in other standards, especially not VGA. VGA is honestly completely dead on basically all current products.

If you only have the 1 HDMI output, you'll need to pick up a USB video adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/

Those USB adapters like that are really low power, so you'll really only be able to do some basic office work and video playback on the monitor using it.

alright i have an update:

This adapter solved my issue -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>I would, but the charge cord is like freaking 2 inches. I can't keep it connected to any of my PC ports easily.

Yes, the length is ridiculously short. How about a USB cable extender?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495844465&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+cable+extender

Similar to chrome cast but works a little better for presenting things or reading websites and documents. http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-CG4-00001-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B00J9C2JDG It may be something that will work for you.

In some cases, you get a slight gain in dB by connecting both outputs with a Y adaptor: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1414358227&sr=1-1

I know that was the case with one of my subwoofers.

Yeah sorry i didn't post a link. This one will work great for either of those laptops.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-HDMI-Adapter-External/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1550785108&sr=8-12&keywords=external+video+card

I looked for some docking stations but they don't really make modern ones as much. They're normally built for a specific model but i guess these took over the market instead because of how universal they are.

I'm a little confused if you're saying $500 for speakers alone, or the set up. Heres a list I put together for a friend who had the same budget. Hope this helps.

($200) http://amzn.com/B00B981F38
($10) http://amzn.com/B006LW0W5Y
($12) http://amzn.com/B005EZTUMU
($130) http://amzn.com/B00067OS0A
($130) http://amzn.com/B004LRPXAU

Edit: If you go this route, don't forget these.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HP63MCWR61GRJ58Y5BY

I'm not entirely sure. It does have stereo RCA outputs on the rear, but they're not amplified. If you have an active subwoofer, you should be able to use a cable such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483657549&sr=1-4&keywords=1+female+to+2+male+RCA to connect the A-100 to your sub.

It should be capable providing you don't use the HDMI port. You'd need a mini DisplayPort to full size DisplayPort cable/adapter or mini DP to DL-DVI. The latter is a bit confusing to me, as historically Apple has offered something like this, but reviews for this simple cable show it displays at least 120hz just fine.

It's certainly worth trying: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-32AWG-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable/dp/B0034X6SCY

Plain old 16 gauge wire you can buy at a hardware store will do just fine. The fancy high priced stuff is just jewelry for your sound system is all.

If your receiver and speakers have connectors like these...

http://s15.postimg.org/4evo0op5n/2016_01_13_14_31_49.jpg

You can either use bare wire ends or buy yourself some banana plugs to attach to your wire ends and plug the speaker cables in that way.

http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452713347&sr=1-3&keywords=banana+plugs+12+pair

Anker USB 3.0 to SATA Portable Adapter, Supports UASP SATA I II III 2.5 inch HDD SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7EM3BbQB3CNZV

I use that for data recovery for most drives. If you're looking for a permanent desk piece then the one you posted is fine.

Edit: get the power adapter if you have a 3.5 drive, which it most likely is.

This thread seems to indicate that it would, but like you said the other non-video connections (USB, camera, etc.) would not work. Your card has a DisplayPort output and Thunderbolt is essentially mini-DisplayPort, so all you would need is an adapter like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-SATA-Portable-Adapter-Supports/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542619393&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+3+sata

these work a bit faster (usb 3, but only work for the small drives like in laptops)

Have you tried on all 3 HDMI ports on your TV?
Have you tried with a different HDMI cable?

Also you could try using an display port to HDMI Active Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480569906&sr=8-8&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+4k

Model of the sub? It matters if it has an LFE input or not. If it has no mono LFE input, buy this (buy length that suits your needs), and get this (you can get cheaper if you want).

Gain: Whatever matches with the volume of your speakers.

Frequency: Turn all the way up. Go into the receiver's settings and set your speakers to small and set the crossover frequency, it depends on what speakers you have, 80Hz is the default recommend.

Power: Auto, just saves you some money on electricity.

Phase: Play with it and see which produces more bass, if you can't tell, leave it at 0° (Normal).

It'll work. But you may need an amp of some kind. I'd buy that stuff first, because an amp is at least $20. An E5 would do the job most likely.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Console-Adapter-Convert-Single-Pc/dp/B0006U3ACY

Also, use that instead. It'll save you from using that female/female 3.5mm adapter. I use this for my xbox 360.

There's a selection of HDMI over Cat6 adaptors on Amazon. Apparently you can now get ones that require only 1x Cat6.

Note that these usually need to be direct cables from point A to point B. They are not ethernet so you can't run them via a switch, over WiFi, or anything else.

I would try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-1080P/dp/B00G5RBX2Q

Sewell deadbolt-style plugs

Really easy to set up

So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483407841&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DisplayPort+1.2+to+HDMI+2.0a&psc=1

So I should get an hdmi splitter and split the hdmi output from the cable box to the splitter, then run 3 hdmi to ethernet extenders out to the tv's?

something like 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549170&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cat6

and 1 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Movcle-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549474&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1x3&dpID=311IVhqkBhL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You can use molex adapters (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812201009), but they run the fans at full speed. You can also get y splitters, but depending on the motherboard (it may not have enough power to run two or more fans off of the same header) you can usually run 2 off of one system fan header. http://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW

Ok so I ended up actually trying that, but it is not working, so I don’t really know what to do...

I bought the adapter: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00B2HP1MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0vA4DbMX65MQG

I connected it from the turntable to the soundbar. Soundbar was set to AUX on the turntable, I tried both line and Phono.

No sound. Any idea why?


thanks!

You want an adapter box like this you can also get special cables if you don't want the adapter.

1. I'm the only person in this sub that bothered to reply. You might want to try being marginally less of an ass, if you have the ability.
   
2. The only solution as of Jan 2015, is an Intel NUC featuring a MiniDisplayPort (like one of these ) and a MDP-->Dual-DVI adapter (like one of these ). I've searched for alternatives, and there's simply nothing in the landscape.
   
   The good news is, if you can get a device featuring MDP and a display featuring DisplayPort, you can use one of these to drive it, without needing an active adapter. It's cheaper and more reliable than any of the active adapters I've been able to find (Monoprice's MDP-->Dual-Link active adapter failed me within a year).

Looks like the back of logitech x530 speakers?
If so, think this is the one you need

Our team uses Victor SP's since we can't afford Talon SRX's, so CAN is out of the picture.

Do you mean "real Y cables" as in something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/PWM-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter/dp/B002OFP6QW

Edit: Will we be penalized for keeping our PWM cables soldered together?

>Are there adapters that convert the white and red (i think those were for audio) to something like a headphone jack or usb port?

Yep they're actually the exact same signal as 3.5mm headphones, just over 2 connectors.

Like this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XJ2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1449842309&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=psu+extension+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31AzohUFmeL&ref=plSrch&th=0

> so the rest of my fans are being powered directly from the PSU

Which means they're going full blast.

Considered something like this?

"A wifi dongle plugged into this monitor here." Any more info on the specifics of the hardware?

Edit: Looks like Miracast or WiDi should work. And the one he is using in the video is this Microsoft Wireless Display Adapter.

Are you looking for something like a SATA-USB adapter?

What brand of SSD did you purchase? Samsung has a utility that makes this mindlessly easy. You just need to connect the SSD to a usb port using something like:
http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Converter-2-5-inch-Supports-Included/dp/B014OSN2VW/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451495212&sr=1-6&keywords=sata+to+usb

I've been using liquid cooling for several years. My previous setup is still in operation - its around 3 years old.

I did have an issue with one of my pumps - turned out the pump was drawing more power than the motherboard could output. I solved this with a $7 cable from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQSZ68/

It has been flawless ever since. That 3 year old device is in my file server - temps never increase, but it runs 24/7.

normally, one of the signals will cut out just briefly enough for the desktop to detect a lost connection which makes it refresh so then the other TV (and desktop monitor) briefly flicker. I'm sorry, we haven't though to take any pictures/vids.

the TVs are 4k capable but we are happy with 1080p, which is what we have been using.

We used J-tech as seen Here for the baluns.

We did two up close tests.

One with the TV on the floor (it flickered)
and with it mounted on the wall and the desktop on a table beneath it. In the 2nd setup on the table, I think was one of the only times we didn't see it flicker.

We have tried substituting a Apple laptop using a micro display port and my personal desktop with an HDMI port and both fell victim to the TVs flickering.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11R3I

I have the hotas with that cable from amazon. It works well

Looks to me like these May do what you want

So an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS

Isn't needed?

https://www.amazon.com/UPTab-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+uptab&qid=1556683398&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I've used an UPTAB 4K adapter for over 3 years. (not the exact same look as one shown)

It works very well with 4K gaming over HDMI connection to my 4K TV

Well it's not overly cheap if you want to be able to control the volume. It's really just a splitter that takes the composite output from the Wii, feeds one branch to the TV, and the other to a 3.5mm adapter that then goes into a small amp that you plug your headphones into. The amp is really just a volume control, and by itself is $30, so if you don't care about being able to adjust the volume (I don't think it's too loud otherwise), then you can get the price down to under $15.

This might help your monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B6ZOMIS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought one and can personally confirm that it does 4k 60hz 4:4:4 chroma.

No. Don't buy the cheaptest stuff and make sure they're shielded. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW.

Will do. I saw a build on part picker that used these to resolve that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XJ2K/?tag=pcpapi-20.

I had the same problem about a year ago. After doing some research, I found this. Works like a charm.

So like this one?