Reddit mentions: The best audio & video crossover parts
We found 65 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video crossover parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 23 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Behringer Super-X Pro CX2310 Professional High-Precision Stereo 2-Way/Mono 3-Way Crossover with Subwoofer Output
- Professional stereo 2-way/mono 3-way crossover featuring state-of-the-art Linkwitz-Riley filters with 24 dB/octave
- Additional subwoofer output with independent Frequency control
- Absolutely flat summed amplitude response, zero phase difference
- Individual output Gain controls for all bands
- Individual output Mute switches for easy band adjustment
Features:
Specs:
Color | Slvr/Blk |
Height | 8.46 Inches |
Length | 19 Inches |
Weight | 5.07 Pounds |
Width | 1.75 Inches |
Release date | March 2008 |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Optical to Coax, Tendak Optical SPDIF Toslink to Coaxial and Coaxial to Optical SPDIF Toslink Bi-Directional Swtich Digital Audio Converter Splitter Adapter
OPTICAL TO COAXIAL BI-DIRECTIONAL AUDIO CONVERTER - Switch to select either OPTICAL TOSLINK or COAX input and convert the signal (as is) to both its COAXIAL and OPTICAL TOSLINK output portsAUDIO FORMAT - Audio Input & Output Support audio format: LPCM2.0/ DTS/ DOLBY-AC3. And the highest support 192 ...
Specs:
Color | Optical&Coaxial to Optical Coaxial |
Height | 0.7874 Inches |
Length | 2.44094 Inches |
Width | 2.3622 Inches |
Release date | April 2022 |
Number of items | 1 |
3. HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter HDMI in to HDMI Out + Optical Audio TOSLINK SPDIF+ Digital Analog RCA L/R Stereo Audio Splitter Converter Adapter Support 4K@30Hz 1080P Full HD 3D by DotStone
➤High Definition Audio: HDMI Splitter Extracts digital audio signal from HDMI source device and converts it to 5.1 channel digital surround or 2 channel analog stereo output, No Signal Loss➤Three Audio mode switch settings: Pass, 2CH and 5.1CH. Optical SPDIF Output supports incoming Pass 2CH PCM...
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
4. Generic A Pair Replacement Ear Pads for DT770 DT551 DT880 DT990 DT531 DT801 DT440 DT660
Beyerdynamic DT770 compatible DT551 DT880 DT990 DT531 DT801 DT440 DT660May also be used for AKG K240S K271S K240M, Denon D2000 D5000 D7000Flexible, durable and high elasticityThe atria are round with an outer diameter of about 100 mm, the inner diameter is about 47mm, and the opening of the rear sid...
5. 1080P HDMI Audio Extractor,AMANKA HDMI to HDMI Audio Optical and RCA(L/R) Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Converter for Ruku,Chromecast, Blu-ray Player, Cable Box, Fire TV, etc
- Extract the digital hdmi audio signal from the HDMI input and convert it to 2 channel analog stereo R/L output or 5.1 channel S/PDIF Audio output; Your equipment and cables need to be consistent resolution
- High Denfinition: Supports 24 bit /deep color 30bit, 36bit per channel (36bit all channel) deep color; Supports HDCP, Video EDID Pass Through, Input resolution up to 1080p (50/60Hz), 1.4 HDMI, 3D, do not support ARC function
- Audio Support: Analog RCA L / R output particularly supports 2CH PCM stereo audio. SPDIF Output supports 2CH PCM, 5.1CH Dolby Digital, DTS Audio (Dolby Digital Plus not supported). This Audio Extractor will output the Dolby True-HD, DTS-HD, AC3, DTS, DSD audio format, But can't decode these audio formats. If your Amplifier or soundbar can't support these audio formats, there will no audio on your soundbar or amplifier, so please set audio format on HDMI Source to PCM/ LPCM audio format.
- Compatiblity: Suitable for various HDMI source devices like Roku or Chromecast without dedicated audio output as well as Blu-ray/ DVD/ HD player, cable/satellite box, Amazon Fire TV, HD TV, PS3/4, Xbox, PC/laptop, HD camera, HD DVR etc.
- Provides the Best Flexibility through Three NEW Audio EDID Settings: Pass, 2CH and 5.1CH, Support 3D video (To get 3D, all units connected to the splitter outputs must support 3D). Plug and Play.Note:Our product don’t support Dobly Digital plus and CEC function
Features:
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 0.90551 Inches |
Length | 3.74015 Inches |
Weight | 0.2755778275 Pounds |
Width | 1.88976 Inches |
6. ViewHD Dolby Digital/DTS 5.1CH Digital Audio to 6 CH RCA Analog Audio or 2CH Stereo RCA Analog Audio (5.1CH Digital Audio Decoder with Built-in USB AV Media Player | VHD-51CAD
- This is a Dolby Digital /DTS 5.1CH digital audio to 6 Channel Analog Audio d Decoder or downmix to 2CH Stereo Analog RCA L/R Audio output; Three Digital Audio Inputs: Toslink Optical Audio Input, Coaxial Digital Audio Input, or USB Inputs for USB Disk / Drive
- It has an RCA AV video output to provide OSD to program this decoder. To use this decoder as a 5.1Ch to Stereo decoder or 6 Channel Analog output to receiver: connect a USB drive to the USB input, select the USB input, push the setup button on the remote, select the speaker icon, select "Downmix" option, select "Stereo" option to set the decoder output to be analog stereo; or select the "5.1 Channel" option to output 6 Channel analog audio for receiver/amplifier application.
- Audio Outputs: 5.1CH / 6 RAC Analog Audio Outputs; use a USB drive to access the setup menu to configure the decoder for 5.1CH downmix to 2CH L/R application,
- One AV RAC Video Output to Support OSD (On Screen Display), Setting and the Bonus: an Integrated and Basic USB Media Player
- AV Video Output Format can be either NTSC or PAL, programmable through OSD access.
- Application Tip: always connect the AC to DC power adapter to the AC power first, then connect its DC 5V output to this decoder, and push the power button to power it on.
- Package Includes: VHD-51CAD Decoder, Remote Control, 100V - 240V AC to DC 5V1A Universal Power Adapter and User Manual; please always contact the seller for technical support.
- Please always contact the seller for technical support if there is any quesitons.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 5.1CH Decoder | VHD-51CAD |
Height | 0.86614 Inches |
Length | 5.47243 Inches |
Weight | 0.9369646135 Pounds |
Width | 2.51968 Inches |
Release date | August 2014 |
Number of items | 1 |
7. Qianson 200W Pure Bass Subwoofer Crossover Second-Order Crossover Frequency Distributor Divider 2 Way Speaker Audio Crossover Filter
- Applications: Home Audio 5.1 bass, bass DIY,Car audio bass, bass DIY
- Power: 200W (applicable to 4-inch to 8-inch subwoofer).
- Speaker Impedance: 4-8 ohms.
- Low Pass Speaker Bass Subwoofer Crossover Filter for 8 Ohm or 4 Ohm
- 2-Way Crossover Filters Frequency Distributor
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 3.12 Inches |
Width | 2.27 Inches |
8. Linkwitz-Riley 2-Way Active Crossover, Fully Assembled [XOVER-2] (Unbalanced)
2-way Active Crossover - Splits the highs and lows for separate woofer and tweeter amplifiersAudiophile grade Burr-Brown op amps, OPA1654 with 0.00005% THD+NUses high precision filter components for ultra low distortion and pinpoint XO frequencyAll Analog Design
9. SPDIF TosLink Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3 In 1 Out Optical Audio Switch with Remote Controller 3x1 Digital Audio Splitter Support 5.1CH 5.1CH/ LPCM2.0/ DTS/ Dolby-AC3 by DotStone
➤MULTIPLE FIBER SIGNAL INPUTS PORTS:Three ways of toslink optical audio input signals(PC, HDTV,Apple TV, cable box,PS4, Xbox, Blu-ray player,etc.) switch to one toslink optical output➤LOSSLESS SIGNAL TRANSMISSION: optical audio switch use optical fiber cable loss of less than 0.2Db/m, distance o...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2.1 Inches |
Length | 2.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.08125 Pounds |
Width | 0.9 Inches |
10. Toslink Swicher 3x1,VCANDO Digital Optical Audio Switch Three to One SPDIF Toslink 3 in 1 Out Switching Box with IR Supports PCM2.0 DTS Dolby-AC3
【3 Ports Toslink Switcher】Allows three ways of optical fiber signals switch to one set of SPDIF/Toslink signal receiving device【 Audio Format Support】3x1 optical toslink switch support LPCM 2.0/DTS/Dolby-AC3; Support last time working state memory when power off【Switcher 3x1】Optical audi...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 3.31 Inches |
Weight | 0.2475 Pounds |
Width | 2.88 Inches |
11. HDMI Audio Extractor, EAKAI 4K HDMI to HDMI Optical RCA Stereo Audio Splitter [HDMI to HDMI+Optical Toslink SPDIF+RCA Stereo Audio]
Why EAKAI HDMI Audio Splitter? Advanced built-in chip can accurate splitt HDMI signal to HDMI+SPDIF+RCA audio signal without loss and delay; Equipped with DC 5V power supply adapter can support long distance signal transfer without weaken; Smart metal box is easy to heat dissipate.Features: HDMI to ...
Specs:
Height | 4.7 Inches |
Length | 5.9 Inches |
Width | 2.3 Inches |
12. Optical to Coaxial or Coaxial to Optical Digital Audio Converter,Musou Bi-Directional Digital Coaxial to/from SPDIF Optical (Toslink) Audio Signal Adapter Repeater Splitter
Converts Toslink Optical or Coaxial audio signal to both coaxial signal and toslink signalBi-directional audio switch to select coax input or toslink optical input based on your audio signal source.Coaxial or fiber can be used as a signal source for reverse conversionSupports sampling rate highest u...
Specs:
Color | White |
13. Dayton Audio DMPC-40 40uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
250 VDC5% toleranceHigh purityHigh current capacitySpecially designed for crossovers
Specs:
Weight | 0.12 Pounds |
14. Skycrop 4K@60Hz HDMI Switch Audio Extractor Splitter with Remote, 3 Port HDMI Switcher with Optical Toslink SPDIF & RCA L/R Audio Out, Support UHD, HDR10, Dolby Vision, Atmos, 18Gbps, ARC
【A True 4K HDMI Audio Extractor】Add 3 more HDMI 2.0 ports to your UHD TV/monitor/projector, meanwhile extract/split audio from HDMI IN, output it via optical SPDIF or RCA L/R to external stereo/surround sound system【A Perfect Solution】 Suitable for speakers/amplifiers/sound bars that do not ...
Specs:
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 6.1 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 2.4 Inches |
Size | 3 Port Hdmi Switch |
15. Musou HDMI Audio Extractor,HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink(SPDIF) + RCA(L/R) Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Converter Support 1080P,Black
16. Parts Express 80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover
- Powerful: newest Intel Quad-Core i5-8265u, up to 3.9GHz
- Fast: 8GB DDR4 RAM and 256 GB PCIe NVMe M.2 Solid State Drive
- Multi-functional: USB 3.1, USB Type-C, HDMI, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth
- HP Fast charging: go from 0 to 50% charge in approximately 45 minutes
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 1 Pounds |
17. 3 Way Frequency Divider 200W HiFi Audio Speaker Treble Midrange Bass 3 Units Crossover Filters
- Max withstand power: 200W
- Applicable speaker impedance: 4-8 Ω
- Filtering characteristics: 12 dB / otc
- Frequency points: 450Hz / 4700Hz
- Dimension (L * W * H): 119 * 78 * 30mm
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.18 Inches |
Length | 4.69 Inches |
Weight | 0.99 Pounds |
Width | 3.07 Inches |
Size | 3 Way |
18. SODIAL Tiny DS3231 AT24C32 I2C Module Precision Real Time Clock Module For Arduino
DS3231 is a low-cost, extremely accurate I2C real-time clock (RTC), with an integrated temperature-compensated crystal oscillator (TCXO) and crystal.The device incorporates a battery input, disconnect the main power supply and maintains accurate timekeeping.Integrated oscillator improve long-term ac...
19. ESYNIC 4K HDMI Audio Extractor HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Splitter HDCP 1.4 DAC Digital to Analog Stereo Audio Extractor with RCA Cable and HDMI 1.4 Cable
- 【4K HDMI to HDMI Audio Extractor】Convert One HDMI Input to one HDMI Output + 1 Audio (SPDIF) Output + 3.5mm Analog Audio Output
- 【HDCP V1.4, UHD 4K & 3D】HDMI to Achieve the Synchronization of Audio Signal Separation, Input Resolution up to 4K@30Hz, 1080P/60Hz, Support 3D, Comes with ONE HDMI V1.4 Cable and USB Cable.
- 【Support 2.0CH & 5.1CH Audio Mode Options】Optical Toslink Output Supports 5.1CH & 2.0 CH Mode, 3.5mm Stereo Audio Output Support 2.0CH Mode, Comes With 1 Male 3.5mm to 2 RCA Female Cable. (NOTE: If the Input Source is NOT the 5.1 CH, SPDIF Output & 3.5mm Audio Output will Output 2.0CH Audio Signal.)
- 【3.5mm Headphones Jack Output】Comes with ONE Male 3.5mm to TWO RCA Female Cable, Can be Switch Between 3.5mm to RCA, 3.5mm Stereo Audio Output is Great to Connect to your Headphones with a 3.5mm Audio Cable.
- 【Widely Compatible】Suitable for Various HDMI Source Devices like Roku or Chromecast without Dedicated Audio Output as well as Blu-ray/ DVD/ HD Player, Satellite box, HD TV, Apple TV, PS3/4, Xbox, PC/Laptop, HD Camera, HD DVR etc.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
🎓 Reddit experts on audio & video crossover parts
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where audio & video crossover parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Thank you Zeos for the RBH R5BIR video review (btw, link missing on this page currently). In that video you mentioned setting the crossover in your receiver but what about those that don't have this capability?
I have an Emotiva PT-100 stereo preamp. I don't believe the PT-100 has that capability (unless I'm mistaken). Is there an alternate solution for this? Perhaps something like the Behringer Super-X Pro Cx2310 or one of the Rolls crossovers (SX21 or SX45)? But for lower end equipment is this even worth it? Perhaps a cheaper solution is available? Or, by "just deal with it" should I conclude that bass management is simply not a thing for stereo-only systems?
Anyway, thanks for the video. If you have any video or material that covers setting the crossover point in your receiver (primarily covering what you do in situations where your electronics doesn't support it) I'd definitely be interested to see it.
HDMI Optical Converter Amazon
I know it was kind of a jerk answer but he wasn't wrong about Googling it. First result was this one on Amazon and the great reviews, many say works as a solution to their PS4. My Astro headphones need an optical too (likely what you have), they plug in via USB for chat and accept the optical as the surround sound audio. Seems like it should work for your case.
PS: this is why I opted to upgrade to the Pro, needed the optical port.
maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542149070&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+crossover
for the amp, you don't necessarily need to get a 2000 watt amp as the 2000 watts it's rated for is the peak, but you just have to make sure you don't send a clipped signal to the sub or you risk damaging it (it's where a limiter will help).
Honestly, when you add up the cost of the sub, the amp, and the crossover - not to mention a limiter, you might be better off returning the passive sub and just grabbing their powered version - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/B1800XP--behringer-b1800xp-3000w-18-inch-powered-subwoofer
It's $300 more, and will include a built in crossover, a built in limiter, and a built in amp and it's rated much louder than the passive version and much easier to setup and run. You literally just plug the mixer into the sub, run the high pass outputs to the speakers, adjust the volumes so everything sounds balanced, and you're good to go.
That's because you don't setup a sub like that: this way, both the sub and your speakers are reproducing all low frequencies (or at least until they can).
You need to cross the main speakers as well with a high pass filter, so that they only reproduce above a certain frequency while the sub does the rest.
What receiver do you have? Multichannel ones do, but most stereo receivers don't have bass management and only provide a sub pre out.
If that's the case, you have two options:
> Why would I want my main speakers playing bass and my subwoofer playing bass?
Ideally you don't want that. But you pay more and increase your system complexity for a possibly marginal improvement. It isn't at all clear that said improvement is worth the investment.
https://www.amazon.com/Linkwitz-Riley-Way-Active-Crossover-Kit/dp/B00FD21I4C
Sounds like a potential issue is that the sound coming out of the optical output of the TV, which may only be 2.0 or 2.1, rather than 5.1. I have this problem with my TV.
You can instead use the optical outputs of each device and send them to an adapter that accepts multiple optical inputs, which then sends the audio off to one optical output based on the input you select. Here's some examples after very quick searching on Amazon (I would definitely search around Amazon/Google a lot more, if you can find one that has more reviews and/or best sellers):
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0403T-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00SX0QKGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480443591&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+optical+input
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IP8IQOU?psc=1
I imagine they make better ones with remote capabilities also. In fact at least one of these has an IR Extender port which might be used for remote capabilities, not 100% sure though. Not sure if this works for you but it might be an option, and these devices should preserve the 5.1. :)
EDIT: found one with a remote!
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0301T-Toslink-Switcher-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00KDZEWWO/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KDZEWWO&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
...and some others.
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G188Z7A&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Digital-Optical-Control-Toslink/dp/B00HTYBPPY/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HTYBPPY&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R
Does your TV have optical out? Not sure if your solution would work or not, but a possible alternative would be optical-to-coax adapters, which are pretty cheap. But you'd have to adapt the standard F-connector to RCA on both ends, plus use the optical-to-HDMI adapter that Sonos sells on the Amp end.
Convoluted, I know. But might work if the HDMI over coax solution doesn't. Plus, it'd be less $$.
Cheers.
I'm not sure I understood everything but since you don't have the space for 5.1 wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to simply use bookshelf speakers with and optical input with the optical audio switcher? With 3 optical inputs, you can plug your PC, the Roku and there's still one free. Those speakers also have 2 analog inputs for 2 more analog devices.
There's no easy way to do this with good (Or should I say "controllable") results
This means that you have two approaches:
The first approach is to use a simple RCA splitter from the line out of your interface, and run one pair of cables to the sub, and one pair to the speakers. In this case, you'd typically want to set the crossover frequency on your sub to 80 Hz, calibrate the levels of the AV-40's and the sub. After calibration, you can start toying with the crossover frequency, in case there is a hole in the response between 80 and 100 Hz.
The better approach is to throw money at the problem and get an external crossover like the Behringer CX2310 (plus three pairs of XLR to RCA cables), jam the crossover frequency on the sub all the way up to 160, and instead set the frequency lower on the Behringer. Two advantages of this approach
In either of my two alternatives, you need to forget that the volume controls on your speakers and sub are no longer volume controls, but merely used for calibration.
It can be tricky getting things to work with optical. Is your receiver showing DD5.1 or DTS 5.1 or is it saying PCM or prologic/neo etc? Some will output only lossless formats, which the cable will not support. In this case it could be the receiver is only accepting PCM stereo.
As homeboi808 stated: PS4 and XB1 will support DD5.1 with optical. A HDMI Audio splitter like THIS can help you with your reciever too.
Yup, just one more RCA connection in there:
laptop 3.5mm -> RCA -> Digital Converter -> RCA -> 3.5mm speaker input
Hmmm, so the issue I'm having is that, again, my assumption is that the speakers are looking for a signal over digital coax. If we want to use your optical output, we certainly could, but I believe this will actually cost a little more money, and be less universal, since you'd only be able to plug in the Macbook.
If that's the path you wanted to go, you'd get something like this
Macbook -> Mini-TOSLINK/TOSLINK cable -> Digital Converter -> RCA/3.5mm cable -> speaker input
I wish there were some way to test my theory without buying a bunch of adapters and crossing our fingers...
You might be asking for this:
https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491533298&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1
Notice it has Hdmi output as well.
Im not an AV guy, but I would guess you cannot play on two hdmi ports from your switcher, even if it had two outputs.
edit: please note i do not endorse this product or its counterparts in anyway, it just seems like the solution OP is looking for.
> Is there a way to set it so that it can be better quality?
>
> I'm thinking my next option is buying an external USB sound card.
That's correct.
The sound quality will be atrocious, yes
Make sure you're in line in-mode and not mic mode on the computer.
See if you can adjust the monitor's outbound volume (down probably) to avoid clipping.
You'd need an HDMI sound extractor (spdif) to a sound card that supports spdif in.
Digital doesn't have that quality issue. The problem is if there is audio delay. Anything ASIO ready should not do that.
Edit (like this, 1080p, no HDCP, so turn that off on your PS4): https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter-Chromecast/dp/B01MSX36H7/
You'll need a soundcard that supports toslink in.
Ah yes, they're pretty huge, I ended up using one of these (can't rememebr my tweeter's resistance though):
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DMPC-40-Polypropylene-Capacitor/dp/B0002KRDOO
I mean 40uF isn't large in general electronics terms, but if you're buying one for audio applications like this it will end up very large...
I posted this in pcmasterrace as well and finally got a solution. Credit goes to /u/BillTheCommunistCat but he said this.
"
I think you want something like this which is bidirectional
https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tendak-Bi-Directional-Converter-Splitter/dp/B06XCTGZFT
Your mobo has SPDIF (coax) output so just get one of those cables to go from the PC to converter.
"
I'm no audiophile myself but the sound for me is fine and from my research before purchasing superlux are highly regarded at giving excellent quality at a low price.
I don't know much again about surround sound but I've had no issues playing any games which require you to have audio awareness (space pirate trainer, holopoint). I've always been able to tell where the enemies are coming from.
I also bought these 1 Pair of Replacement Ear Pads Cushions for DT770 DT551 DT880 DT990 DT531 DT801 DT440 DT660---Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C3BEREY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_etcDxbPX6GPGRfor them as a lot of people recommended it for comfort. I didn't think the original ones were bad but these are a bit more comfortable.
I mean, that is what a crossover does. You dont have to remove the dac or bypass it at all. You just want a low pass filter from the sounds of it. Something like this perhaps? Not sure of your whole setup though, if you put a low pass on the speaker with something like this which is a cross over, just for low end. No personal experience with either of those items specifically btw. Good luck on your adventure!
cant tell for sure but it seems like your system does not have a surround decoder. you would need a decoder to go from the digital out to 6x Analog out.
something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Decoder-Control-Support/dp/B00MSD26TK/
I hear the "PFMod" (adjustable) is an improvement.
Honestly for $25 more, I would just pick up this:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/
There are HDMI switches which might work.
Would something like this or this accomplish what you want?
I use these with my akg k240, didn't come with foam so I used the foam that came included stock.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Replacement-DT770-DT551-DT880/dp/B00C3BEREY/
The hifiman velour pads roughly the same as the above pads, stiff foam but has a small piece of fabric.
http://www.moon-audio.com/diy-audio-parts/accessories/hifiman-velour-replacement-earpads.html
The top of the line stuff is really the akg k70x pads but are crazy expensive, $27.50 individually.
http://www.moon-audio.com/diy-audio-parts/accessories/akg-k701-k702-earpad.html
The beyedynamic ear pads are really nice soft foam on the inside. I might switch out the my beyerdynamic pads for my hifiman velour pads if most of my beyer foam wasn't dead.
or buy an audio extractor like one of these https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/ which just gives the added benefit of being able to listen with the tv off.
all good, it actually has spdif coaxial and not toslink unfortunately :(
would using a 3.5mm to 2RCA and connecting it to this work?
https://imgur.com/lCgsc1Q
or should i just buy this
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B06XCTGZFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3B4LLV7B4EQYR&psc=1
and go amp>toslink>converter>coaxial>tv?
Like the others said you can connect your speakers to your monitor in case it has an audio output. You could also use a HDMI Audio Extractor with an additional hdmi cable and an adapter like this one to connect your speakers to the extractor.
The 3.5mm output on the Chromecast Audio also doubles as a mini Toslink (digital optical) output. You are probably more familiar with the regular size Toslink digital output that is more common. Here is an adapter that takes you from mini Toslink to Toslink.
If your DAC only accepts a Coax digital input, though, you will need to take that a step further with something like this that converts from Toslink to Coax.
I have not used either of these products, specifically, and therefore cannot attest to their quality or performance. You may want to research their quality and/or consider similar alternatives from other manufactures. I just wanted to provide you with some examples.
Personally, I use just CCA with 3.5mm to RCA analog output right into my amp, and find its internal DAC decent enough for my purposes.
You could get an audio interface that has spdif like this one.
https://focusrite.com/usb-audio-interface/scarlett/scarlett-6i6
Then get a toslink to spdif like this one
Optical to Coax, Tendak Optical SPDIF Toslink to Coaxial and Coaxial to Optical SPDIF Toslink Bi-Directional Swtich Digital Audio Converter Splitter Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCTGZFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qbbzCb2TFMTYG
There's no good way to do it honestly.
Theoretically the best way would be to use RCA cables (Wii Composite) and convert to 3.5mm and amp it, but WiiU's don't have that on by default.
You could also use the headphone jack on a monitor/Gamepad and amp it as needed, but that can be inconsistent by monitor/TV
The way to garuntee getting audio at every setup is to get an HDMI audio extractor and run it through a headphone amp if you need some extra volume
May I recommend a cost effective solution? Normally I would recommend the use of an Outlaw Audio ICBM, however it has been discontinued.
Here'ss the Behringer equivalent.
I know, its crap but it will work.
cheap
There are dozens of different boxes you can get off of Amazon that extract the HDMI audio to optical, this one for example has good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/
Sure, passive subwoofer with a crossover.
Parts Express 80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover more at https://www.parts-express.com/cat/assembled-passive-crossovers/308
Nippon HC-101 4 Ohm 1 channel 400w 120 Hz Low pass Subwoofer Crossover
12V Low Pass Speaker Subwoofer Crossover for 8 Ohm or 4 Ohm
But you are adding a passive subwoofer and already powering 4 speakers.
A powered subwoofer gives you the benefit of adjusting the volume of just the subwoofer relative to the speakers so you can fine tune the amount of lower bass you want.
Maybe we can find some cheaper earpads, since the original AKG ones are rather expensive compared to the headphone.
On amazon.de i found these and also these. I don't know how good they really are but about 5€ might be worth a try.
Not OP but I have a bunch of these hooked up and I’ve never had any issues with them. You don’t have to pay much :/.
I have some hooked up to an hdmi audio extractor with an RCA -> AUX cable into my PC’s Microphone port, which I have set to ‘Listen To’ in Windows 10, so any audio coming from the HDMI source gets routed through my PC. $35 vs ~$150 for OPs capture card method :P. Though, if your motherboard or sound card support SPDIF input, you should use that instead (this extractor does both).
SVS SB1000 a good match for Airmotiv 6s nearfield? Currently have an XDA-2 and I'd buy a Behringer for crossover. My rooms 11x13.
You would need a crossover in the middle to feed the highs to the monitor's amps and the lows to the sub's amp
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK/
If you want to keep it balanced, use a "pro" audio crossover:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/
or a "pro" equalizer with subwoofer outputs -
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ1502HD-BEHRINGER-ULTRAGRAPH-PRO/dp/B013JLZMZE
(I use "pro" in quotes, because Behringer is the cheapest bottom of the barrel "pro" company. Generally used by DJs or small mobile / live PA scenarios and not really in high-end recording studio environments). But they are perfectly fine to use. I've built a few budget systems with their components with no issues whatsoever.
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Alternatively, pick up a proper studio monitor sub - they usually include an active crossover inside the sub, allowing you to run your full range signal directly into the sub (unbalanced or balanced), where it splits the lows to the sub's internal amp and sends a highpass back out to the mains. (Many have a bypass foot switch so you can click off the sub and run the mains full range again when you want.) - but you generally won't find these under $400.
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EDIT - Someone found one!
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2
Yes, you will need a passive crossover to run a sub and those speakers from a 2 channel amp. Is the sub a single voice coil? To put it another way, does it have a single pair of speaker wire connectors? If so, then your options are somewhat limited, BUT you could run the 6.5" speakers full range, then put a low-pass crossover on the sub, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-100-Pass-Crossover/dp/B004GE68N4/ will pass the low frequencies < 100 Hz to your sub. I'm not saying to buy that one, you will need to to buy that matches your sub's impedance (8,4,2 ohms)
Hah. Well... I tried. Here's another shot:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Analog-Decoder-VHD-51CAD/dp/B00MSD26TK
This gets you three optical inputs, DD/DTS decoding, 5.1 analog out, a volume control, and (two) remote control.
No idea about getting these things to Croatia, but like much of the China product at this end of the spectrum there are equivalent (perhaps identical) items sold under many different names.
3 Way Frequency Divider 200W HiFi Audio Speaker Treble Midrange Bass 3 Units Crossover Filters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS69PKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cuO0Bb8E3N89S
If was thinking something like this
Cheapest is probably going to be something like this, 1080p to 1080p audio splitter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSX36H7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_3Ev3DbRFE7YK4
I had that issue with a DS1307 connected to an ESP32, I switched it out for a DS3231 and with its temperature compensation precision, I haven't noticed any drift over the last couple of weeks.
The ds1307 I was using, like yours picked up a minute even after 1 day of use.
If the amp has no built-in lowpass filters, then all you'll get is a full range signal from the speaker outs you want to drive the sub from. Otherwise you could have used a miniDSP to split the signal before the amp and send the low frequencies only to a sub. There are even simple passive units you can put on the low level before any amplification, like https://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover-Pair-Low-Pass/dp/B0006N41EM
But if you want to use that amp you do have to put the low pass filter on the speaker cables but before the sub (or inside the sub, by all means) - https://www.amazon.com/Qianson-Subwoofer-Crossover-Second-order-Distributor/dp/B01IZ6OBAA something along those lines.
Alternatively, use your amp for the speakers in 2 channel mode and add something like a Crown XLS https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1002 - the reason I mention that is that those are very smart, can be bridged, and they have built in low- and high pass filter options. So you can send a full range signal to the amp, and it will cut out the highs itself. That way all you have to do is split the input after the pre-amp (assuming you have a pre-amp) and send the same signal to both amps.
/u/IsItTheFrankOrBeans is correct, but he/she fails to explain completely. In one of the images you show there is an RCA connector labeled COAX, that like an optical cable carries a digital audio signal, but instead of doing it with light it does it over metal conductors.
What you need is a Coax to Toslink (optical cable) converter, such as: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tendak-Bi-directional-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XCTGZFT/
You'll also need cables!
You can use a RCA cable to plug into the adapter if that's all you have, but it would be recommended to buy one that is labeled as Coax as these have more shielding than a standard RCA cable.
Does that all make sense?
This converter should work fine for you. It's convenient because it can be USB powered and most TV sets have USB connectors for that purpose.
I just got one of these for me home theater setup because my tv isn't capable of 5.1 passthrough and my roku doesn't have a dedicated audio out. They work great (I had another one for a couple years until it crapped out). I'd say it's worth a shot. The lag you get over HDMI through the TV is usually from the TV processing the audio, I'd imagine just splitting the signal shouldn't introduce any noticable delay.
If you want to be super cheap and don't mind some ghetto-rigging you always have the sock mod.
The favorites from what I remember of the time I spent digging for mod info on my 668b/SR850 were the AKG K240/270 pads (Headroom - Thomann) though the official ones cost more than the headphones them selves. The Beyerdynamic Velour Pads that net-force mentioned look pretty comparable though. Hell of a lot cheaper as well.
The Leather Sound Blaster pads were popular as well, can't seem to find them for sale anymore sadly.
I've seen pics of the Beyer pad you linked stretched to fit as well, but they apparently affect the sound in a negative way. Don't remember how exactly though.
You can use an audio extractor, or find a way to directly connect your speakers to your monitor.
DotStone HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter HDMI to HDMI + Optical Audio TOSLINK SPDIF +Digital Analog RCA L / R Stereo Audio Splitter Converter(HDMI Input,HDMI+ Toslink/Digital Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KYURMEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hXJkzbFB9SD3S
No that's not a crossover. It won't help you. This is a crossover, for example. But if you say something about your source/s I can recommend something more specific.
Skip the polk. A Dayton Sub-1000 will serve you better. Splitting the RCA won't halve the volume but it may fall a db or two from just power loss. The issue is you will still be sending full range to the AV40's since most subs don't provide RCA passive cutoffs. This isn't the worst thing but hard to avoid without buying a fully active crossover like this.
Please do! Everyone deserves such a cozy den.
The one pictured is the "IC200B PICO Projector" (latest here).
Pros: What you see pictured.
Cons: The fan is a bit loud, I'm going to 3d print a noise shield/holster for it to hold it in place and deflect the fan sound back behind the bed frame. Oh and the annoying built-in speaker, I picked up some HDMI audio splitter ('mirrors' audio signal to audio output type of your choosing) to deal with it. I go chromecast > HDMI audio splitter > projector for video, then chromecast > HDMI audio splitter > speaker amp for audio. It doesn't remove the audio from the HDMI signal so a tiny bit still gets to the projector, but I can easily jack the audio amp up and it drowns out any/all sound from the projector.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KW33VG6QFHEH815RRK7K would this be an acceptable one? What cables would I need to hook up to this crossover. Really struggling sorry.
I doubt you have a sound card; you're probably using the motherboard audio, and yes, it sounds bad. So bad.
Does your monitor have speakers or an audio jack? The HDMI to your monitor carries audio. If the monitor doesn't have any way to play audio, you can use an HDMI audio extractor; that might sound better.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KYURMEW/
I'd consider the following:
But your're right, there's not much out there. There is also the PFMOD which is $50 but a bit of a wildcard due to the lack of buffering which makes it susceptible to changes due to source and load impedance.
What you're looking for, in audio terms, is a "crossover", which takes the input, and splits it into low frequency and high frequency parts. Run the low frequency side to the subs, and the high frequency side to the monitors.
Behringer makes one.
not sure how much it will help, but here goes. the amp will have 3 cords coming out: left, right, ground. left goes to left speaker, right goes to right, and ground goes to both. who goes to the sub?
you would need a low pass filter. im not sure if you'd combine the left and right wires, then go into the filter (someone else is going to have to chime in). after that, you'll need a low pass filter, so you are only telling the woofer to play low notes. you'd also have ground go to the woofer.
this MIGHT be what you're looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/100-Low-Pass-Ohm-Crossover/dp/B004GE68N4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334952064&amp;sr=8-1
edit: or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-CR66-Electronic-Pass-Crossover/dp/B000A8B1TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334952064&amp;sr=8-2
I decided to just buy this.
I'm not sure how I'll go about changing from PC to Switch on my monitors but at least this way, I won't have to use the terrible speakers on my monitor.
edit - Actually I canceled it after I realized I could just use the headphone jack while the Switch is docked.