Reddit mentions: The best audio & video power cables

We found 1,627 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video power cables. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 565 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on audio & video power cables

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where audio & video power cables are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 25
Number of comments: 11
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Total score: 11
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Total score: 8
Number of comments: 5
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Total score: 7
Number of comments: 4
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Total score: 6
Number of comments: 6
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Total score: 4
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Audio & Video Power Cables:

u/smudi · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wow, that looks really, really nice. I really dig the side window to see all of the parts inside. Especially that gpu and how it lights up just a bit. Very nice touch.

You are certainly right about that cpu cooler, that is monstrous. I have a cpu cooler that I thought was fairly big because it hangs over the first RAM slot, however yours... geez. I havent heard of that specific cooler before, but I know from browsing this subreddit that phanteks makes high end stuff, and by the looks of that cooler, it seems top notch.

I see what you mean by that 8 pin power connector. My case is also fairly big and I just barely made the reach when routing that cable behind the back of the motherboard tray. Im not sure if your plan is to extend the 8 pin connector, but something like this 8 pin extender has a fair bit of class to it while also doing the job. Although if you are in the UK, prices will obviously be different.

Speaking of having everything set up properly, I did notice 1 thing from that picture you might look into. Generally for a psu, it is mounted "upside down". With the fan facing the floor/ground. The fan on the psu is usually an intake fan, meaning it sucks air into it to cool off the internal components of the power supply itself. Right now, it would be pulling air from inside the case to cool itself off. This isnt much of a big deal as it can be mounted either which way, but the majority... well, nearly every single modern power supply I have seen has the fan face the bottom of the case. Although, yours is lit up with led's, which makes me a bit less certain since you wouldnt exactly see them if it were facing down. Maybe a quick test while the computer is on by taking off the side panel and putting your hand, or even a piece of paper over the psu fan to see if air is being sucked into it, or being pushed out would give the answer. Honestly, your system shouldnt get "hot" and this isnt much of an issue, but worth pointing out.

If you are interested in some temp testing programs, I am quite fond of core temp. It is a small bit of software that you can set to run constantly and even launch on start up, but minimized to your system tray. The function of it is to list off the temperature of each core of your cpu. Your cpu has 4 cores, so it would list 4 temperatures in real time. If you expand it out of the system tray, it will also show you the highest temp it records, and the lowest. Useful if you are benchmarking or just checking to see how hot your system actually gets. There are various others out there as well, and it's really just up to preference on what you think you would prefer to use. Hardware info is another rather popular piece of software that does the same thing, with some extra features like recording voltages on your cpu, which is useful if you want to overclock.

Thank you for the gold as well, that was a nice sentiment and I appreciate that. Anyways, have fun with your system. It's a good one!

u/VannaVictorian · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

fear cuts deeper than swords

1.) Something that is grey. probably the best thing invented.


2.) Something reminiscent of rain. who doesn't like doggy rain jackets? :3


3.) Something food related that is unusual. BACON


4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. this item is something i would like to give to my boyfriend as a gift. he finally got his dream car on the road and we both love Judas priest.


5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! this book is a classic. if you have seen the movie then the book is even better. along with my grandparents being back round actors in the original movie. look the book, love the movies.


6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! cause its "cheap stuff"


7.) Something related to cats. I love cats! i would never get bored with this. or tiss on my wishlist :3


8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. it's useless to me because i don't drink, but it's cool as fuck. (on wishlist, for my sister)


9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? I loved this movie when i first watched it. it's interesting, keeps you watching and it doesnt start out boring like most "scary movies" do. it's a movie i would suggest to all. (on wishlist)


10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. it explains itself.. but you can hold a lot of stuff while out hunting zombies!


11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. my mother is a nail tech and i want to go to school as one so i can become one as well. this would help me become better at doing nails while i 'practice' on people.


12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. do you want a stinky toilet?


13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? i've always been a huge fan of sugar skulls and i would love this in my room. it's not a dream item but it is the highest priced item on my wishlist. i think it's beautiful.


14.) Something bigger than a bread box. on my wishlist. isn't it pretty? :)


15.) Something smaller than a golf ball. on my wishlist. " a golf ball weighs no more than 1.620 oz (45.93 grams), has a diameter not less than 1.680 in (42.67 mm)" my item is 1.25 in.


16.) Something that smells wonderful. i'm native american so i enjoy burning incense and sage. don't know about you, but it's a wonderful thing to me.


17.) A (SFW) toy. who doesn't like laser pointers? dog people. thats who.


18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school. fuck, i'm 17 and i'd buy this for myself!


19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. i'm obsessed with Judas Priest, as well as my boyfriend. i need to knew sweatshirt and i've been trying to convince my parents to get me this one. Turbo Love by Judas Priest is my boyfriend and I's song to each other, he just got his car on the road so his license plate is dedicated to that song. (wishlist item)


20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. you may not think this is so amazing, but holy shit who wouldn't want to fucking float on a donut? i mean paint yourself yellow and just call yourself mothafuckinnn homer simpson! or this you'd have the best skinny dip of your life!

this was really fun! thank you :)

u/Route66_LANparty · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

> Thanks for the response and your input! I am certainly going to take into account the things you said regarding the PC I’m going to build.
> • CPU: My local Micro Center has the i5-4590s for $169.99 and the i7-4790s for $249.99. Do you think that the performance difference I would see between the 4590s and 4790s would be significant enough to warrant an extra $80?

  • That's a hard call. The performance improvement would be noticeable/measurable both on applications/games that support hyper-threading, and on those that are primarily single threaded as the i7 has a much higher boost clock. $80 worth? IMHO, it's only worth it if you are planning to heavily game on it at the same time Plex is streaming a transcode or two out someone else. Or if you plan to use this as your primary computer. If it's only going to be a Plex server and HTPC for 1-3 people, spare gaming machine to be used only when you have company over, and no one directly gaming on it while it's streaming, then the extra $80 for the i7 would arguably be overkill.
  • For friends and clients who could afford it. I've had them go with the i7-4790S, i7-4790, and i7-4790K when they could get the Microcenter deal. I've found it just too good a deal to pass up for primary systems.

    > • Motherboard: Just to be sure I’m correct, there is a total of 5 Sata 6GB/s ports, so this would allot for 1 SSD and 4 standard internal 3.5” drives?

  • Yes. Though you could get any H97 MiniITX motherboard with the Fractal Node. If your local Microcenter has something in stock it should work for their CPU combo.

    > • Video Card: Aside from gaming, is there any other reason you could think that I would eventually move away from the on board graphics of the CPU? When the standard for movie/tv rips becomes 4k, will a standalone video card help in any way with streaming these files to a Plex client?

  • Haven't done anything in 4K with Plex yet. Last I checked GPU transcoding support wasn't yet in Plex. Only add a video card if you want to use it for gaming as well.
  • Budget card that can do it all right now ... GTX950. Can be had for between $130-$160.

    > • Power Supply: I watched the video for the case and they said that the space can be a bit tight due to the power supply. Will the power supply you listed allow me to get 12.2” GPU clearance? Assuming I decide against gaming and this will be straight up HTPC/Plex server w/ downloading, does it make sense to go with a lower wattage PSU?

  • Fit: From the Fractal Node 304 product page "ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (To fit in combination with a long graphics card, PSUs with modular connectors on the back typically need to be shorter than 160 mm)". The EVGA 600B is 140mm, should leave plenty of space for a GPU. We've done our due diligence here. Specs say it should fit with plenty of room to spare. If it still doesn't fit I'd be surprised, but nothing more you could have done.
  • Wattage/Type: The EVGA is 600B is a nice quality budget power supply for the money. It's a nice wattage that isn't crazy overkill if you later add a powerful GPU for gaming. Note: The system is NOT using 600watts from the wall all the time. This is simply its maximum usage. You could get a smaller, slightly more efficient and modular unit. Combined with a short cable kit, it could make managing the cables easier in the little case. But the total $ cost would be more:
  • Silverstone Modular 500W - $70
  • Silverstone PP05E Short Cable set - $30


    > • Storage: Makes sense to go with the sata3. I originally thought that using the M.2 SSD on the Z97 Extreme4 would free up an additional port for a future HDD. But after reading further using the M.2 disabled one of the Sata3 ports anyway.

  • Correct. M.2 is only worth it if space is at an extreme premium, or if you are using a PCIe M.2 SSD that can use all that additional bandwidth like the Samsung 950 Pro (Around 2x the $$).


    > • Case: Any similar case you can recommend? My local Micro Center(Paterson NJ) is sold out of the Fractal 304 mini.

  • Doh! You can always order the Node 304 online for a $70 instead of the $60 deal Microcenter had. It's really the perfect small case for this type of build.

  • Other similar dust filtered NAS/Gaming capable cases from Lian-Li and Silverstone are a bit more expensive (also may require a smaller SFX form factor power supply):
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lian-li-case-pcq25b
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lian-li-case-pctu200b
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lian-li-case-pcq08b
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/lian-li-case-pcq28b
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/silverstone-case-ds380b

  • Few other cases that could work, but aren't as small, quiet, and/or dust filtered as the Node 304:
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-cc9011069ww (multiple colors, can use MicroATX motehrboards)
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcanode804blw (can use MicroATX motehrboards)
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcacore500bk
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-rc130kkn1
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-case-phes215psrd (multiple colors)
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-bfcphe300wwxkkrp (multiple colors)
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-bfcpro300kkxskrp (multiple colors)


  • Larger HTPC cases (and use larger ATX motherboards):
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcanode605bl
  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/silverstone-case-sstgd07b
u/dirty110 · 1 pointr/macpro

FWIW, for my 5,1 I changed out my Macvidcards flashed GTX980 to a Sapphire RX580 and I've been pleased with the results. However I acknowledge that you say "best for video editing" -- which as grumpy foul mouth posted below -- there are faster alternatives but that require more mods. So for me, "best" means what gets me quickly over the Nvidia/Apple roadblock, to Mojave, and keeping my 5,1 going for a bit longer with minimum hassle and $$. To me pouring cash into a 5,1 doesn't make a ton of sense, but a $200 upgrade for another 1-2 years seems reasonable.

I regularly edit photos in Lightroom and videos in FCP. The change to Mojave is nice (be sure you have the right wifi/bt card) and the speed has been great for my needs. It's not night and day different but it's definitely faster and good enough for my daily work use -- I mostly edit 1080 and 4k from cameras such as the 5d Mark IV, GoPro, Iphone, etc. I admit though, I don't nerd out too much on comparing test scores and I also am not editing 8k raw footage. I looked up various tests and it seemed that the 580 was as good or a bit better than the GTX980, and for my daily pro use it's definitely seems quicker, especially w/ Lightroom as it now uses GPU processing.

Like @ArkadyBogdanov said, the RX580 is the simplest solution AFAIK -- just need the correct power cable (6 pin to 8 pin) and make sure it fits in there w/ your other PCI cards, as it's a bit wider than the GTX980 and similar cards. Mine is in slot 2 which disables slot 3 b/c of its width -- but there it is better cooled as it's not covered up w/ my double Sonnet sata card w/ is now in slot 1 (the bottom slot). I could put the 580 in slot 1 and barely squeeze in the sata card above it, but since I don't need slot 3 the better solution was obvious.

COMeap Dual Mini 6 Pin to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Adapter Cable for Mac Pro Tower/Power Mac G5 15-inch(38cm) by COReap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J336WY4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_PIJ3DbD4ENPZH

Sapphire Technology Technology Radeon 11265-05-20G Pulse RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Dual HDMI/ DVI-D/ Dual DP OC with Backplate (UEFI) PCI-E Graphics Card Graphic Cards
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ6FMF8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_UIJ3DbAJXAJ50

u/Imlulse · 2 pointsr/M43

You can, I dunno what Rain_Coast is on about. I bought two things as soon as I bought my E-M5 II, first one is this duck plug (similar to what comes with some Apple chargers) so I wouldn't have to carry the cable and could plug the Oly AC charger right into the wall (it's not that big, hangs fine).

Second, I bought this USB charger so I could charge two batteries simultaneously without tying up additional outlets, as a bonus it's also smaller. I typically charge my Watson battery on this one and the OEM battery on the OEM charger, but they'll charge the other way around as well.

I have not verified if they'll charge to exactly 100% (which is a common occurrence when mixing OEM batteries and third party chargers) but I'm not too bothered if it's left at 90% or whatever since that's healthier for the battery anyway and I always carry multiple ones.

I've heard the Watsons are by far the best third party ones as far as yielding close to the same capacity as the OEM stuff. YMMV with newer battery models like the E-M1 II's, though I'm pretty sure there's single and dual USB chargers for those too. I have two Wasabis I rarely use (got them as part of a third car charger I bought for camping and using off solar).

I'm actually kind glad Oly ships a cabled charger, left the cable plugged into an outlet under my desk so I can just reach for it when I wanna charge at home rather than hunting for a free outlet. Got a cabled Pana charger too (from an imported GM1) that I've left alongside it and USB Pana charger for travel too.

Edit: There's third party AC chargers as well of course, the Watson ones seem neat in that they have these swappable plates for different batteries. I bought one and a fresh battery to hopefully sell w/my GM1...

u/federal38 · 1 pointr/NZXT

> There are three fan headers on the motherboard. Case, AIO and CPU. I have connected the case fan to the case header (obvs) and the X42 to the CPU port. Is this correct, or should I use the AIO port?

You should have connected the case fan to the case header, which you did. So that's good.

The X42 fans should go to the CPU port on the motherboard. Then, the fans for your X42 should plug directly into the three-fan splitter coming out of the Kraken X42.

​

> I would like to add an additional 2 case fans, but the only free port I have now is the AIO fan port. I also noticed there is a spare port on the X42 cable. How should I add multiple additional fans to this setup?

You should most definitely not connect extra case fans to the extra port on the X42 cable. This would cause your CPU fans and case fan(s) to spin at the same speed. Not ideal. You would want to order a fan splitter such as this one and connect it to your case fan header. I believe it's labeled CHA_FAN1 for Chassis Fan 1.

​

> In terms of airflow, how should I set the case up? Currently, the front fan is pushing air inwards and the X42 is also pulling inwards. Is this correct? If I added two more at the rear of case, the intention is for these to exhaust...

Fan configuration is a commonly debated topic, and it usually depends on a variety of factors such as case size, size of fan, etc. but this is how I have mine set up.

​

I have my Kraken fixed at the front of the case, with fans on the inside pulling air into the case from the Kraken. This means that hot air is being pulled into the case from the Kraken radiator. After that, I have three 120mm fans at the top of the case pushing out hot air for an exhaust, and one 140mm fan at the back exhausting air as well. It's a good setup for me, and I would advise you to mix and match different fan configurations to find what suits you best.

​

Good luck,

federal38

u/c-line · 2 pointsr/nyc

Oo, that is a good deal more than I thought the budget would be! Well, okay, what comes to mind to me anyway are the little toys from Think Geek, so here is their gift guide for <$50. Even if you don't get anything from them, it might at least give you some ideas? I personally like the chargers (solar, multi-USB, etc.) on the list, but it doesn't give you that multiple gifts in a box thing. Also, bucky balls are also surprisingly fun.

So these are my only further ideas as far as brick-and-mortar stores:

  • Kinokuniya -- 1073 6th Ave., at 40th-41st St (Bryant Park). This is a really cute Japanese bookstore, with CDs, clothes, manga, toys, and random things. I could spend hours there.
  • The Evolution Store -- 120 Spring St, off Broadway. I've not been here myself, but I have friends who sing its praises. Looking at its website, they at least sell a tote bag for $10, which I have to say is the most reasonably priced tote bag as I've ever seen. Not much really fitting "11 year old who's into electronics, games, music, and food" though.

    If by "food" she means sweets, there is

  • Dylan's Candy (two locations -- 1011 3rd Ave. at 60th St. and 1095 6th Ave. at 41st, again at Bryant Park)
  • M&M store -- 1600 Broadway at 49th St.
  • Hershey store -- 1593 Broadway at 48th St.
  • Economy Candy Market -- 108 Rivington (in the lower east side) for retro candies. Candies from your childhood! Candies from before she was born!

    If savory or offbeat snacks is more her thing, I'd suggest some Japanese snacks because they transport easily and can be quite interesting -- try:

  • Sunrise Mart, 4 Stuyvesant St. (off 3rd Ave.) or
  • M2M, 55 3rd Ave. at 10th St.

    (If you're coming from New Jersey, however -- and I only gather that it may be a possibility because you're coming into NYC via Penn Station -- there are basically the same snacks to be had at Mitsuwa in Edgewater.)

    As for the gift(s), I had a few ideas as well -- unsolicited perhaps, but what the hey:

  • external USB charger, like a backup battery, such as this. I use mine all the time.
  • gloves for using touch screens, like these. It's not the right season though, and she may not live in an area that gets cold though.
  • Nutella (because)
  • a Pandora One subscription ($36 for a year)
  • cable clip/organizer for the desk, like this (I love these)
  • box of googly eyes (because)

    Hope some of these ideas help.
u/metr0metr0 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Hey almost my part set!!

I'm also going for the mini ITX SG13 with a 3700X on an ASUS X570, and same power supply and memory...

I've just bought the CPU at USD 305 on NewEgg page at eBay. It could works for you and you will save 25 bucks!

Why you decided for Cooler Master Cooler? I'm thinking on Corsair H60, it's $60 on Amazon today. I had the H110iv2 for 2 years and never got any issue, CPU was always fresh.

For GPU I'm still on the fence for a 2060/2060 Super or 2070 it all depends on Black Friday deals, let's hope we see good prices!

I still don't get the parts, but accordingly to what I've read, everyone seems to also recommend "SilverStone short power cable set" as it seems that will facilitate what's already a tight place.

Don't know if it will work OK, I hope it will but I'm interested on knowing about the progress of your build anyway!

Good luck with your build, I hope my two cents could be useful!

u/fletcherhub3 · 4 pointsr/buildapcforme
This is what I would do. Credit goes to u/weetsy69 I just changed a few things.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $349.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $96.99 @ Jet
Motherboard | ASRock Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $143.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $175.99 @ Jet
Storage | Crucial MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $169.99 @ Jet
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ B&H
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 8GB AMP! Edition Video Card | $580.66 @ B&H
Case | Corsair Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $139.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.45 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Newegg
Case Accessory | NZXT Hue+ LED Controller | $59.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2010.38
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $1985.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-07 01:47 EST-0500 |
Truthfully, use this if you want to go total RGB-tempered glass mode. Otherwise, go with the build mentioned before, but I think I have a few helpful tips.
I changed the case and gave it an exhaust fan, the same kind as the intake fans so the color can be synchronized. Also added the NZXT Hue+ for more LED lighting so the build lights up.
Power supply - I changed it to the G2 series of the specific PSU because reddit sometimes shames the NEX series for its build quality(?) If you don't want the Hue+ or case and if you have enough money, a set of white sleeved PSU cables would replace what comes with the PSU and look amazing as well. Maybe even add these to your order? ;)
I changed the motherboard because I think it looks amazing, has wifi, SLI support, and a touch of white. The white accents reflect LED color better which will make the build "pop" a bit more.
I changed the CPU cooler to an all-in-one liquid cooler that is mainly aesthetic, but the Dark Rock Pro 3 will do great if you don't want liquid cooling. One side note on this cooler is that the fans that come with it can be loud under load, you can buy replacements if they happen to irritate you.
The final thing that I remember changing is the SSD. For $10 more you can get 250 more GB than what the Samsung offers, while the Crucial is a very reliable and competitive drive as well. I hope this helps!
u/huhthatscool · 3 pointsr/aeroponics

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

u/terp02andrew · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Weighted external cable-management: Cordies.

Saw these initially at The Container Store, but obviously over-priced there. Got these online, and have to say these are great for organizing your mouse/KB/speaker/mic cables.

I initially had some crappy setup with a cereal bag clamp (don't ask haha), but the Cordies product does it MUCH better.

Even more useful if you're making significant changes, where you are disconnecting/reconnecting all your cables.

This way the only cables that are free are my super thick dual-link DVI cables haha.

u/techcaleb · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, that's fine. OK, by the numbers. It looks like this PSU has two 12 volt rails, each capable of 18 amps, or 12*18= 216 Watts. So that shouldn't be an issue, at least from that perspective. Now comes the tricky part.

The manufacturer seems to imply that the continuous power usage is about 150 Watts, but (http://gpuboss.com/graphics-card/Radeon-HD-5850) lists peak power at 303 Watts. Working backwards, that means the card is drawing about 75 Watts from each PCI 6 pin connector (or 6.25 amps) and it draws the remaining 150 Watts from the motherboard (usually from the EPS 12V connector).

So, as long as your processor isn't using too much power ( it would have to be less than 141 Watts) then you should be able to use the PSU.

One more check is to make sure you are not drawing more current than the single 12v wire in a 4 pin connector can handle (the yellow wire). Turns out the max current is 7 amps, and you are running 6.25 amps, so it's fine.

Here is an example of the type of adapter you want. You will want to plug each of the 4 pin connectors into a different branch coming out of the power supply. You want them to be on different rails to make sure the system in balanced, and you want them on different connectors to the PSU body to reduce voltage drop over a single wire.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DV1Z22K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wn0LybH7VNMS7

All this to say that yes, it is possible to run it off the existing power supply. However, most people would prefer to use a 650 or 750 watt PSU to give a little headroom. Entirely up to you, but hopefully this example will make you more comfortable doing the calculations in the future.

u/ResearchDeezNuts · 2 pointsr/CryptoMiningTalk

No problem. I'll include links so it makes easy for you. My advice, go with GTX 1080 tis. With some patience, you can get them for 800/each, and their profitability is more than twice that of RX 580s. The approach is simple and will take over a week to secure all your cards around that price range.

  1. You check amazon and newegg frequently for 1080ti with price range under $900
  2. Go to manufacturer websites and get auto-notify for the card you want(for example EVGA: https://www.evga.com/products/productlist.aspx?type=0&family=GeForce+10+Series+Family&chipset=GTX+1080+Ti). Each website should send you a notification at least once per week that they restocked, you just have to react to it first. :)

    For Power Supply: invest in one 1600W for every 5 cards you run(1080 ti draws around 250W each. If you run each card at 80% power like most miners, you should be fine with a 1600W and 6 cards). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MMLUIE8

    Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07481N9LW

    Motherboard power button https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO

    Ram https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HVND88

    SSD https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-120GB-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/

    CPU https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B2PJRPA

    And one more thing: That's the dream build I've been saving up for. If you appreciated the help, please consider donating to my rig fund. And don't forget to tell me how it's treating you from the other side! =)

    BTC:1FNhq8ypxamLjEqRn5yMWvaPRZuEaQUhqs
u/Prorogue · 1 pointr/bluetongueskinks

You really should not be using any heat sources that are not connected to a thermostat.

Unless your enclosure is located in a room with very, very good climate control (air conditioning, heating, and we're talking laboratory-grade), or you live in an equatorial country, as the seasons and weather change you are looking at 20 degrees of heat variation. As the weather changes, the temperatures inside the enclosure might reach unsafe levels; without a thermostat, as the room temperature changes, the enclosure temperature changes with it.

Instead, make sure each heating element is connected to a thermostat. Make sure each element is powerful enough (has enough wattage), and use the thermostat to fine-tune the temperature. When done this way, you can set the temperature and basically never need to worry about it. Even a particularly hot or cold day, the enclosure will still be at safe temperatures.

For your size enclosure I recommend at least 100W for the basking bulb. The wattage on your infrared bulb is fine.

For the thermostat, I strongly recommend the Herpstat line of thermostats. Using the Herpstat 2, plug your basking lamp/UV into line 1 (you'll need a power cable splitter), and your night lamp into line 2. Or, use a Herpstat 3 and plug all elements into their own line. All Herpstat thermostats can be programmed with a day/night cycle and can power up to 500W per line.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A single fan header can power multiple fans, you just need a splitter cable which is only 2-3 dollars.

Better case airflow means each individual fan can spin slower, reducing noise. Same principle behind aftermarket CPU coolers, extra surface area lowers noise.

To be honest, the Carbide 88R isn't a good case choice. The single stock fan and closed off front panel design will result in poor stock temperatures. I would strongly recommend a Fractal Design Focus G instead, which is similar in price. If you add a rear 120mm exhaust fan it is an excellent case. Arctic P12 is a decent cheap fan model, about $10.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5

I use that in my case, the first fan gives the motherboard an RPM signal, all of them run at the same PWM level, and they get power from the SATA connector.

A cheaper and less flexible option is just a cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Computer-Extension-Converter-TeamProfitcom/dp/B07F8LV1BY

u/cyberintel13 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok I can help you out here:

So your motherboard has these fan headers:

  • 1 x 4-pin CPU fan connector ( The Dark Rock 4 Pro does in fact have a splitter for this. )
  • 1 x 4-pin Water Pump connector (PWM controlled by BIOS)
  • 2 x 4-pin system fan connectors (PWM controlled by BIOS)

    You easiest solution here is to get a pair of 4 pin PWM fan splitters (Like this 2 pack of 1 to 3 splitters for $7.99 on amazon prime) and connect the intake and exhaust fans to the splitters. This way you can set a custom fan curve through your BIOS based on system temps. Note: The fans connected to a system fan header through a splitter will all spin at the same speed since the splitter links them together.
u/samsterk911 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Your'e gonna want some awesome new knives.

this to keep all your cords in place.

this so you don't have trouble plugging in all your stuff.

this can be used to keep track of all the tiny pieces (e.g. batteries, screws, etc.).

I personally use this everyday, it's the best.

these to keep you clean.

everyone needs one of these.

gotta put all the shoes somewhere.

something like this will come in handy.

It's the small details that count.

this could help when moving everything in.

And then get one of these bad boys for you!

okay I think I put enough for now, hope it helps.

u/BitcoinAllBot · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: McBrenday

Content:

>So basically I didn't know that a 1080 FTW had 2 8 pin slots and this basically overthrew my mining rig operation that I just built. I've read up on Y splitter cables and they do not seem to be that great in terms of being reliable cables. I do not have enough power slots on my PSU to support all the Evga 1080 FTW's I have.

>I was looking at these from amazon and was wondering if one of these could support 1 1080 FTW : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3OVG4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Lavins · 3 pointsr/watercooling

Okay, while you did a great job mounting those cards, your case is looking a bit of a mess! Haha. Let's help clean that up a bit.

  1. Is it possible for you to purchase an extension? Buy this one for your 8 pin motherboard, in black. They have white and red too, but you pick. This will allow you to run your 8 Pin behind the motherboard and out of the way.

  2. You can remove that bridge on the right. You only really need one and the second bridge is for triple SLI.

  3. Check out how I routed my tubing. Try to follow it as best as you can so you can get shorter runs.
  • For the bottom card, have that one go into the pump first.
  • For the top card, have that one go into the left side of the single 120 rad.
  • Have the 120 rad continue on into the CPU
  • From the CPU, have it then go into the reservoir.

    This should no only clean up your tubing for better aesthetics, but provide shorter runs and quite possibly drop a degree or two.

    As for your PSU, just a question though: how come you have it flipped up pulling air from inside of the case? Most people (with the exception of Linus from LTT) will have it draw air from the bottom (outside) of the case.
u/DemigodOfThe21st · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

First, I would want to check to see what the speed of the wifi connection is inside the student housing. That card seems to me to be way overdoing it. I would recommend something more like this, especially if you're going to primarily using public wifi.

https://www.amazon.com.au/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ASUS+PCE-AC68+AC1900&qid=1574946302&sr=8-2

Then again, the first one isn't that much more, and it would be a lot more future proof for down the road.

And you can definitely use a PCIe riser, just be sure not to cheap out on it, and try to get by with as short a one as possible. ThermalTake is usually pretty good

https://www.amazon.com.au/Thermaltake-Gaming-Black-Extender-AC-053-CN1OTN-C1/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=pcie+riser&qid=1574946555&sr=8-6

u/Tmrh · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

If you head over to /r/watercooling I'm pretty sure the guys there will be better able to help you on the subject than most people here. as far as parts go I know EK has very good parts for custom watercooling and they have parts available on amazon.

For the case, what do you mean by modular case? Cases aren't modular as far as i know, except maybe the mastercase 5 or mastercase pro 5 from coolermaster which are sort of designed with adding custom mods to them. But i don't think you can get them in white and purple.

as for the power supply this one is 99$ on amazon

for sleeved cables i can find white ones, but i don't see any white and purple ones on amazon, you could probably find some somewhere else. But then you wont be able to use your amazon gift card.

u/noneedtoprogram · 1 pointr/techsupport

Does the cable look like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimted-6-feet-Mickey-Mouse/dp/B000234TYI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394823217&sr=8-3&keywords=power+cord

or this http://www.amazon.com/standard-compatible-Replacement-Electronic-Figure-8/dp/B0058FN6V2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394823217&sr=8-2&keywords=power+cord

Either way they are easy to get on amazon or whatever. It sounds like you're talking about the simple power cord that connects the power brick to the wall.

Also, it's probably just the fuse that's gone. In this case you could either find a spare fuse, or scavenge one from another plug.

What country are you in? I'll be able to help you find a replacement more easily if I know what mains plug end to find you ;)

u/ShadowFallsAlpha · 1 pointr/computers

You are looking for something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-8-Pin-Molex/dp/B01DV1Z428/

These are PCI Express power cables (PCIe) There are several types 6-pin or 8-pin, there are both ones to use Molex or SATA power cables. You probably are better off with a properly equipped power supply though. If yours didn't come with these connectors, it will probably get pretty stressed from the video card it wasn't designed to handle. Some just include one connector, to not have any, the power supply must be pretty old or cheap. It would be a better investment in my opinion to sink the money into a decent bronze series or better PSU than some cables.

u/curiositie · 2 pointsr/buildapc
The CPu will come with one, but I was assuming since you had selected a K CPU you'd be OC'ing and want a better cooler.

Looking on PCPP, I don't see a cheaper option than the 4690K @ microcenter in your build, and having a K CPu doesn't hurt anything if it doesn't cost more.

I'm partial to seasonic, but anything by Seasonic, Corsair, Silverstone, or EVGA should be fine.

For this build I'd probably go for the Silverstone ST50F-P, because it's a short power supply, and compatible with the PP05-E cable set which would make cable management easier in the case if you're willing to pay for extra cables.

Here's the build with the PSU and cable set

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $79.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $62.95 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card | $323.98 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $32.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Plus 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $67.98 @ Newegg
Other| PP05-E| $29.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $982.86
| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00
| Total | $947.86
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-09 21:16 EDT-0400 |
u/ninjagowoo · 4 pointsr/fujifilm
  • the lensmate thumb grip (expensive but better than the cheap ones)
  • soft shutter release (get a variety pack to see which you like best, i prefer the concave ones)
  • screen protector
  • a right angle plug for the charger if you don't like the long cord

u/fatpolomanjr · 1 pointr/sffpc

I'm looking for the thread where this was mentioned but everything I'm reading supports all three fans being able to be run from the same header. The guideline is max 1 amp and 15 Watts for all three fans total, and these 92mm slim fans are rated at 0.11A and 1.32W. Do I need a dedicated 3-way splitter like this, or can I get away with two y-cables linked together? I'll probably order the 3-way splitter since it looks so much cleaner, or if you have any recommended brand/splitter.

u/Non-Alignment · 1 pointr/buildapc

I see. My board has both a 4 pin and a 3 pin chassis fan slot.
Should I prioritize giving the 4 pin to specific fans on the chassis to maximize the effectiveness of that speed control pin? Like the two exhaust fans maybe?

Thanks for all the help btw. Very much appreciate it.

Do you have specific brands to refer to for fan splitters? I'm looking at this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-FAN4SPLIT12-12-Inch-Power-Splitter/dp/B005G3010U

And duly noted on the 120mm phantek fans. i'll look for noctua or silent wings ones instead. but the 140mm phantek fan I chose is fine?

u/Leebyn · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Alright. Having a modular PSU is definitely helpful.

My motherboard is the Asus Z87-A. It looks like your CPU power is slightly closer to the top of the motherboard than on mine, so you should have better luck routing it through the lower rubber grommet, around the back and through the hole on the top right (when you look on the back side).

Front side / Back side (sorry, ugly pictures)

I bought this extension from amazon and you'll see in the back I have plenty of "slack length". I guess it's ~550mm + 250mm extension total length.

If not, you'll have to run the cable across the front over your GPU, which should also reach fine. I had it that way for a while, and your CPU power isn't more than 100mm away.

u/forgotPasswordBBCB · 1 pointr/funny

Something it tells me it would be more expensive than $4.99 for an Apple PWR Button!

​

"We are taking the courage to ditch the power button, now you only have to turn it off with a hand gesture and on with a hello!"

*Apple iMac needs online connection at all times in order to see your hand gestures and hear you say commands, you will need a PWR Button™ in order to toggle off the microphone and webcam in iOS. **See our Privacy Policy for concerns.

​

Order our advanced Privacy Wired Remote today!, The new PWR Button will fully shutdown your computer and turn it on again at the push of a PWR Button !

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/appleswap

Remember: Always be cautious when using payment methods other than PayPal Goods and Services.



Title: [USA-TX][H]2018 Custom High End Gaming System [W] Top of line 2018 MacBook Pro 15, i9, with AC+

Username: /u/nizmoz

Body:

I am wanting to switch back to Mac, and have my custom gaming system built my me a 25 year IT Professional. I am looking to trade for the MBP in the subject. If interested, please PM me. We will need to do a Paypal hold of the amount depending which direction the equipment goes for the trade and then refund it back once the swap is done.

Computer stuff:

1.      Acer Predator XB271HU 27" WQHD IPS NVIDIA G-Sync Black/Red Gaming Monitor, 2560 x 1440 (2K)

2.      ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING GeForce 11GB OC Edition VR Ready 5K HD Gaming HDMI DisplayPort DVI Overclocked PC GDDR5X Graphics Card

3.      NZXT S340VR Elite Computer Case , Matte White (CA-S340W-W2)

4.      ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X CODE S LGA1151 DDR4 DP HDMI M.2 Z370 ATX Motherboard

5.      EVGA G2/G3/P2/T2 100-CW-1300-B9 Power Supply Cable Set (Individually Sleeved), White

6.      24 Pieces Set = 24-pin x 4, 8-pin x 12, 6-pin x 8 Cable Comb for 3 mm Cable Gesleeved Up To 3.4 mm/0.13inch) black

7.      NZXT RF-AR140-C1 HUE+ & Aer RGB140 Fans Bundle Pack RGB 2x 140mm Aer Fans Included

8.      NZXT Internal USB Hub Controller, Black (AC-IUSBH-M1)

9.      NZXT HUE+ Extension Kit (AC-HPL03-10)

10.  NZXT Aer RGB120 Single Pack RF-AR120-B1 120mm Digitally Controlled RGB LED Fans for HUE+

11.  EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular, Eco Mode with New HDB Fan, 10 Year Warranty, Includes Power ON Self Tester, Compact 150mm Size, Power Supply 220-G3-0750-X1

12.  Intel BX80684I78700K Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor

13.  NZXT RL-KRX62-02 Kraken X62 280mm All-in-one Water/Liquid CPU Cooling with Software Controlled RGB Lighting

14.  G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Memory F4-3200C16D-16GTZR

15.  Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD MZ-V6E250BW

16.  Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 inch SATA III SSD

​

Pictures: https://imgur.com/a/TLBuIbE

​


I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

u/SkyN3T24 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I have a Silverstone Strider ST85F-GS850w Gold Full Modular compact ATX power supply Link with the PP05-E Short Cable Kit ONLY Link, both in great condition in OG boxes for only $100 shipped. It was in a compact microATX case, hence the short cable kit. If you're using an ATX case, you can get nice colored sleeved extensions for cheap and they'll look awesome, lemme know

u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/hardware

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

u/Avavee · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're going to do any overclocking I recommend getting the cooler.

I just bought that case. Be careful, there are two versions of it. One has USB 2.0 ports and one has USB 3.0. They're often the same price so you should find the 3.0 version. It's a nice case, I like it.

You're better off going for a smaller PSU. I bought this, and since it has short cables, bought this. It has a $25 rebate so it's a great deal.

u/NULLstalgic · 1 pointr/nvidia

Oh got it. Well I ended up finding the cables kit for the G2 EVGA PSU on Amazon sold by EVGA and another by CableMod and BitFenix. CableMod looks really nice, but I don't think I wanna risk it, best bet being directly from EVGA.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-100-CW-1300-B9-Supply-Individually-Sleeved/dp/B00KVLCZLU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evga+g2+cables&qid=1566257204&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/nautimike · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not sure if it helps, but, I'm pretty sure that PSU was actually made by PC Power and Cooling.

You could use a PCI-E 8 pin splitter like this - https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Video-Y-Splitter-Adapter-Supply/dp/B00A3OVG4W

That said, I'm not a fan of using cable adapters to make a PSU work.

u/dhiltonp · 5 pointsr/M43

I would either keep what you have and not buy a lens, or buy the 25mm f/1.7 with the intent of selling at least one of your lenses to offset the cost.

Here are a few things I have and use:

  • short plug - traveling with the long gray cable the charger comes with is a pain. This plug will work in the US, Thailand and China.
  • peak design capture - I wear a backpack when traveling, this makes my camera always accessible.
  • travel tripod - If you want a travel tripod and aren't sure that you'll use it, this is a decent choice. If you get this and the pd capture, you'll also want an arca-swiss compatible clamp.

    Other notes:

    You'll get about 3 hours of camera on-time. To get better battery life, turn off your camera when not taking pictures.

    To start, try to align 2 things in a picture: the subject of the photo, and having a pleasing/interesting background. A wide aperture can help with that, but isn't required.

    Try to get some practice taking pictures before you go, practice really helps.

    Starting out, try shooting in RAW+JPEG.

    Beyond that, have fun and take lots of pictures!
u/Koldof · 1 pointr/buildapc

Why is the MOBO power cable not tucked behind the case, [here is a diagrom] (http://i.imgur.com/2LWay.png) (Paint Pro™). Is the cable to short? If it is, I'd recommend buying an extender. Something like this NZXT one. They're also really nice looking, thanks to the black sleeve (other colours are available).

u/Funkbass · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have the simplest of simple questions! I am using a Universal Power Cable (similar to the linked one but not the same model) to connect my PC to my UPS. I lost the original that came with my PSU and picked up whatever one was lying around the house and it seems to work fine. I just want to know if they're all the same or if I could be potentially underpowering my PC (if that's even possible to do with just a cable.) Thanks in advance! It's a pretty cheap cable so I'll probably order a replacement regardless. Is the amazon one I linked a solid choice?

u/mr_kirk · 3 pointsr/oculus

8 months ago, I got the following. It's basically a Tiki on the cheap.

Silverstone Tek Mini-ITX Computer Case with PCI-E Riser ML07B
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8CIZYS
Silverstone Tek NT06-PRO CPU Cooler
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A460TJ2
Silverstone Tek 450-Watts SFX PSU
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VQ2Y4K
Silverstone Tek Flat Flexible Modular PSU Cables
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7Y3I4M
Panasonic UJ-265 Slim 6X Blu-ray Writer
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFXZ9VA
Silverstone Tek Ultra Low-Profile SATA (CP11)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GSQ3KT8

To that, I added this: "i7-4790K", "Crucial Ballistix 2x8GB DDR3 1600 CAS 8-8-8-24 Low Profile", "Crucial M550 512GB M.2 SSD CT512M550SSD4", "ASUS Z97I-PLUS", and a pair of "Scythe Slip Stream SY1212SL12M 120mm fans". And, a 780ti graphics card.

Of course, now, the 980 is out.

Anyway, it's a nice and fast machine that you can easily carry single handed. Just got fed up with the limits of laptops. Very quiet, too.

For most everything, I got on sale (lightning deals, etc.). Some for less than half what they are now charging. But, it pays to not be impulsive. Only the CPU is cheaper now than it was.

And every thing I've thrown at it is completely fluid. It's awesome to have something that runs UE4 like a REAL dev environment should run.

*edit: I just looked at amazons page for the case. Picture doesn't do it justice. The thing is SMALL, and is very high quality materials. Have a look for it on google images: Silvestone ML07B

u/HmnkZilla · 3 pointsr/sffpc

2700x w/Strix B450-I, Dom Plat RGB 3200mhz 2x8gb, Silverstone 700w Plat SFX-L w/swapped copper fan grill. If anyone wants to buy the PSU pm me haha, the stock fan grill from Silverstone is still mint, not to be confused with the grill that was painted. Im really trying to look for an SF600 with some custom cables or something, would die to have some PSlate cables or something before end of this month since I wont have time to wait for all of the processing time it takes for them. Have 20+ trades on r/hardwareswap but barely have time to even post anything nowadays. Still looking for a better shade of copper spray paint. If I had time I would have 100%%%%% powder coated instead of rattle-canning.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01G26SMTQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=538XD1Y5M2ML&keywords=sfx+700w&qid=1572601315&sprefix=sfxl+700%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3

\^ Thats the PSU. I could do like $140 shipped with this thrown in from CO. Lmk!

u/BrundellFly · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

fyi macOS:

This is one of the (three) AMD Polaris & Vega GPU 'Higher-end cards' cMP (classic, pre-2013 mac pro desktop) recommendations, w/ macOS Support. @macrumors (thanks Andrew).

& meets 'RX Vega BIOS Compatibility' w/ the 'Vega High Fan Speed Issue: Not Present'

>Sapphire Pulse RX Vega 56 [11276-02-40G]
>
>Pros: Powerful, very efficient for Vega (180W), quiet (zero RPM 'fan stop' at idle feature), low temperatures, readily accepts BIOS flashes
>
>Cons: 2.5 slot width blocks PCIe slot 2
>
>Other considerations: Dual 8-pin power connectors require Pixlas mod or separate PS.
>
>LuxMark luxball score (Mojave): ~28,000

^(Also one of Apple's) ^(recommended) ^(Metal-Capable Cards Compatible w macOS Mojave. 2010-2012 mac pro support the apple Dual mini PCI-E 6-Pin, onboard, to Standard PCI-E 8-Pin,) ^(adapter)

u/Triggyrd · 1 pointr/NZXT

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Gaming-Black-Extender-AC-053-CN1OTN-C1/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ look at the reviews and pictures. I think brackets would ruin the look. Trust me. Watch reviews with this specific cable it’s really good. My friend uses it on his h500i and it’s amazing

u/Dark_24 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

yes of course there is cheaper - BUT cheaper means crappier!! You would likely WANT it to work yes? That means you want a Shielded cable..

Also what length do you want /need?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0731F743X

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Gaming-Black-Extender-AC-053-CN1OTN-C1/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ

u/tendogy · 1 pointr/buildapc

You know, you could just get a cheap case to hold only the GPU. Something like:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133347

for $37 shipped, and then a riser for $27 to bridge between the two

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Gaming-Black-Extender-AC-053-CN1OTN-C1/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ/

and you're back in the game. That's still $64 more though, which sucks. Also, sorry about this whole situation. It sucks to be hyped for a new GPU and it won't fit.

How much clearance do you need? Like is it just a mm too long, or a whole inch, or what?

edit: I saw the video you posted, but the fan is still in the way. It looks like you're only a few MM short if you took the fan out, is that right?

u/eth03 · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Thanks, so it looks like the EVGA PSU's come with a 6 pin power connector to Molex cable, each cable has 3 molex connectors. My riser cards use 6 pin PCIE power. So i will just throw out the 6 pin to SATA cables that came with it, get these 6 pin to molex adapters instead https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DV1Z22K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1 , and then connect those to the molex to 6 pin cables labeled "perif" to the perif ports on the PSU.

Update: I am just going to make this simple, use molex powered riser cards, and connect them straight to the PSU using the factory provided EVGA 6-pin to 3xMolex cables to power 3 riser cards each. EVGA 1300 has two perif ports so that is enough to power 6 riser cards. all my GPU's have their own dedicated connection to the PSU using the VGA ports and the included VGA power cables.

u/onji · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Yep CanaKit is awesome, do yourself a favor and add this to the cart as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018BFWLRU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stops the wear and tear for the power jack.

u/AbysmalVixen · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It’s best to use a wall outlet something like this splitter would help

u/alaphamale · 1 pointr/buildapc

You'll be happy with the Phantom.

As far as cable length, you will likely be fine except for the CPU power. In the HAF X, Storm Stryker and now the 810 this cable has always come up a bit short for me. Just get an extension cable like this...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ORCJY

This PSU has a 120mm fan.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095

u/foeyloozer · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nqJyvn)

​

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QKJtt6/amd-ryzen-7-3700x-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000071box) | $329.00 @ B&H

**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair - H100i RGB PLATINUM SE 63 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XzDJ7P/corsair-h100i-rgb-platinum-se-63-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060041-ww) | $169.99 @ Corsair

**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte - X570 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NQ7p99/gigabyte-x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi) | $219.99 @ Newegg

**Memory** | [Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vfDJ7P/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-cmw16gx4m2c3200c16w) | $94.99 @ Amazon

**Storage** | [Samsung - 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JLdxFT/samsung-970-evo-10tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-mz-v7e1t0baw) | $169.99 @ B&H

**Video Card** | [Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC WHITE Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vdCFf7/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-2070-super-8-gb-gaming-oc-white-video-card-gv-n207sgamingoc-white-8gc) | $535.25 @ Newegg

**Case** | [Corsair - Crystal 280X MicroATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/m7yV3C/corsair-crystal-280x-microatx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011136-ww) | $85.98 @ Newegg

**Power Supply** | [EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550) | $79.89 @ OutletPC

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1720.08

| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00

| **Total** | **$1685.08**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2019-07-11 00:54 EDT-0400 |

​

​

​

Could not find a suitable power supply with white cables. So there is the g3 which is fully modular. If you really want white cables, there are some on amazon, but they will cost you more money. Overall I went with your white + rgb theme. Any questions or suggestions from fellow builders will be appreciated.
u/eerietheery · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'd make a long 2-pin power switch cable if I were in your situation. :) Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO

u/ndougla2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

2 questions:

Would there be a huge performance loss in using a EVGA 770 4GB Superclocked in SLI with a 770 4GB Classified as opposed to a second Classified? The stats on them look pretty similar. I kept waiting on the Classified to hit B-Stock, but I can get the Superclocked for the same price as the B-stock Classified and get my SLI up and running now.

Second, Are [these] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3OVG4W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VTAFIC8F5I9Z&coliid=I1LH9OGTPHS0SF)
alright to use with SLI 770s? Or should I use 1 cable for each power connection to the PSU? Would help with keeping cable clutter down.

u/SEND-ME-YOUR_TITS · 1 pointr/Dynavap

If you wanted to do this with batteries, you'd just use 3x 18650s that are rated at 10A or more continuous current. You'd also want a leaflet holder, and some 18AWG wire. Probably a 4 slot charger, too. A soldering iron is recommended, with this holder you'll need to connect the battery pins yourself. The same case would be perfect. For added coolness you could use a button to trigger the heater, so it'll turn on when you insert your dyna and off when you remove it. You'd just need to make sure there's something separating the cap from the button so it won't melt. I used a little wooden cylinder I made.

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
This is what I came up with. Went slightly overkill on some parts. I decided to go with an M-ATX build instead of an ITX build. This will give you some upgrade options later and still be fairly compact.
I have to put my rationale in a reply as I ran out of characters! :]

Note that the PC only comes to a total of ~$1400. But I included extra's as I did note that you were not using a great monitor and your mouse is broken and you asked for a headset. So I included all of this.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $16.98 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $116.96 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Team Dark Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $132.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $208.97 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital WD Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $81.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $355.66 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Phenom M Nvidia Edition: Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $49.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Silverstone Strider Gold S 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $129.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply Cable kit| SilverStone PP05-E Short cable kit | $30.00 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell P2314H 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $171.00 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus USB-N13 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $18.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse | $54.99 @ NCIX US
Headphones | SteelSeries H Headset | $242.17 @ NCIX US
USB Hub| USB 3.0 HUB + SD Card | $20.00 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1920.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-22 16:27 EDT-0400 |
u/Superlolz · 1 pointr/Corsair

How exactly did you accomplish it though? Is the front panel RGB a set of plugs exactly like the PW switch? Or did you have to buy another set of wires like https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 and wire it in yourself?

u/DanTheGoodman_ · 1 pointr/homelab

The two I am looking at right now are this dell and this hp. I am swining more towards the dell, but the hp does come with 3 drives and has slightly better ram. I think I will still go with the dell since it has double the drive bays plus 2 psus vs one. But I do have a question: would they be using this power cable or the ones with horizontal prongs? Edit: it looks like dell takes the vertical ones that I listed

u/PixelAmp · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thank you so much! I'm going to order this cable! Thank you for the help!

u/Ropya · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Just make sure it can handle the amperage and youre good.

Something like this will do you just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JRMD0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

u/Grim-Sleeper · 1 pointr/chromeos

I am a big fan of this Anker's USB-C power supply. Works fine for all my legacy devices and also for my cell phone and Pixelbook.

And the best part is, while it comes with a power cord, you can install an adapter to turn it into a wall charger. I haven't tried yet, but I imagine this also works with European plugs.

I installed an extra long 10ft USB charging cable. That's the beauty of having a device that you can plug arbitrary cables into, rather than being limited by the power supply that came with your device.

u/xmrminer01102018 · 2 pointsr/MoneroMining

After getting the correct parts with a lot of research on which parts to get, Linux(Ubuntu) is running Eight GPU XMR Rig. I added the list so that you do not have to wonder which parts to get.

​

Eight GPU Rig Essential Shopping List:

​

NOTE: I do not get paid for referring to newegg.com, ebay.com and amazon.com.

You can search them using google and duckduckgo.

​

  1. COLORFUL C.B250A-BTC PLUS Motherboard LGA1151 Mining 8 Graphics Card Stolts US

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/COLORFUL-C-B250A-BTC-PLUS-Motherboard-LGA1151-Mining-8-Graphics-Card-Stolts-US/123046058473?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

    ​

  2. Six PowerColor Red Dragon Vega 56 GPUs and two MSI Radeon RX Vega 56 Air Boost 8G OC.

    Linux and xmrig-amd miner do not work well with PowerColor Red Devil Vega 56 GPUs.

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007709%20601302833

    ​

  3. CPU - Intel Celeron G3920 Skylake Dual-Core 2.9 GHz LGA 1151 65W

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117619

    ​

  4. G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB 260-Pin DDR4 SO-DIMM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Laptop Memory

    It may work with 8 and 4 GB modules. I had 16 GB on hand and I did not want to buy extra.

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232155

    ​

    5. Seasonic PRIME 1300W 80+ Platinum Power Supply

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151214

    More power needed for overclocking.

  5. EVGA SuperNOVA 1600

    ​

  6. Electop 2 Pack 2 Pin SW PC Power Cable on/Off Push Button ATX Computer Switch

    https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537039724&sr=1-1&keywords=SW+PC+Power+Cable+on%2FOff+Push+Button+ATX+Computer+Switch+Wire

    ​

  7. 4 X 120mm DC 12V 2.4A 200CFM 3Wire 3Pin TAC Connector FFC1212DE CPU Cooling Fan

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07538SG1H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    NOTE: The fan is very noisy since it is comparable to server grade fan.

    ​

  8. ModTek 4-Pin Molex to 4 x 3-Pin Fan Connector Cable (Power 4 Fans from 1 Molex Connection!)

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYA3A4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    ​

  9. Eight COMeap 6 Pin Male to Dual 2X 8 Pin (6+2) Male PCI Express Power Adapter Cable for

    Graphics Video Card 24-inch (62cm)

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076YXS6KL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    ​

    ​

    How to get it working quick guide.

    ​

    Connect PCIE cable provided by Seasonic(You will use 4 cables providing 8x6 connections) to

    PCIE input ports.

    Since the mother board does not have 24 pin connector, you have to short 24 pin connector

    as shown in the following Seasonic self test video using the paper clip.

    If the 24 pin connector notch is on top, connect 4th pin on the first row with 3rd pin on the

    second row.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CNsQPFxJdM

    Cover the paper clip with electrical tape.

    ​

    Once you get the pc booting, install according to my Vega mining guide with onboard GPU and single Vega and stop it at "ADD ALL THE VIDEO CARDS HERE". Turn off the computer.

    Connect remaining seven COMeap 6 pin connectors to PCIE output ports on the mother board and to other 7 GPUs.

    ​

    Vega Mining Guide for Linux(Ubuntu)

    https://github.com/xmrminer01102018/VegaToolsNConfigs

    ​

    ​

    Quick sequence for running the miner.

    NOTE: Replace gpu sequence, *data* file and fan speed according to your equipment.

    Copy config.json_V56_8GPU to config.json and add your wallet id to it.

    If you are using V64 and FE, change intensity to 960 and use the different *data* and PPT files.

    ​

    ./setSMClockVoltages.sh 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 MSIV56H.data_OC8_7 skip

    ./setGPUOC.sh 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 7 6

    ./setPPT.sh 1 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 2 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 3 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 4 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 5 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 6 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 7 V56PPT

    ./setPPT.sh 8 V56PPT

    ./setAMDGPUFanSpeed.sh -g 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 -s 82

    cd ~/git/xmrig-amd/build

    ./xmrig-amd

    ​

    ​
u/2down1up · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

It is highly recommended to go through the shutdown processes everytime you want to turn the device off to avoid SD card corruption. If you want to add a switch, so you dont have to unplug the cable every time you turn if off you can look at something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Switch-Raspberry-Female/dp/B018BFWLRU

Not sure where you are getting your 18650's from.... laptop batteries are a good place to harvest. But gotta check them. Most laptop batteries that "die" only have one cell that has gone bad. And you can get 18650 cases that hold 8x18650's pretty inexpensive on amazon and the like and that should power a pi zero for days. I've had one running on a 2x with motioneyeos for >24 hours. ymmv.

u/dragoth13 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
For your consideration:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $174.29 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Silverstone AR02 56.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $27.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus H81M-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $54.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $249.99 @ NCIX US
Case | NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $19.98 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | Asus VN248H 23.8" Monitor | $133.00 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan | $11.02 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan | $11.02 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | Scythe Slipstream 110.3 CFM 120mm Fan | $11.02 @ SuperBiiz
Thermal Compound | Noctua NT-H1 3.5g Thermal Paste | $5.52 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Razer DeathStalker Essential Wired Gaming Keyboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Razer ABYSSUS Wired Optical Mouse | $31.99 @ Amazon
Other| 2x 120mm fan filters | $20.00
Other| Zalman Fanmate 2 | $7.00
Other| 2x PWM fan splitter | $14.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1121.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-08 00:48 EST-0500 |
u/iBUYPOWER-Brad · 1 pointr/iBUYPOWER

the Power cord for the PC is generic. Check the shape of the plug on your power supply and make sure its this kind:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Universal-IEC320C13-Compliant/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524500651&sr=8-3&keywords=atx+power+cord

You can find these cables for $5-10 at pretty much any electronics store or online retailers

(very high wattage power supplies, usually 1000w or higher sometimes have their own special power cords, so make sure to check the shape of the plug)

u/joelthezombie15 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

OH I remember there was this one I saw that looked super useful for what I needed it to do.

These! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GUS4XK/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_kHGhtb1BRKPPK

I remember them being way cheaper though.

u/Harlodchiang · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There are 3 things that you need:

A Lighting Node Pro, or Commander Pro. This is the hub that links to your motherboard using a USB 2.0 internal header.

A Corsair 6-port RGB hub. It looks like this, and comes with the 3-fan kits that include the Commander Pro or Lighting Node Pro.

Finally, the fans. The SP, HD, and LL use these hubs. It is worth noting you cannot mix fan types, like LL and HD on one Corsair 6-Port RGB hub.

The way you link them up is:

All the fans have 2 cables, RGB and Power.

The RGB cables go to the 6-port hub first. Make sure the fans are plugged in sequentially, such as 1 to 6 without skipping ports.

The power cables can go into the Commander Pro if you have it. If you don't, you will need to buy splitters such as these ones. The splitters go on a fan header on the motherboard, splitting it into 3 duplicated ports.

The Commander Pro or Lighting Node Pro should come with a RGB cable that should be the same in both sides. Use this to link the 6 pin hub to the Pro hub, plugging it into LED 1.

Link the Pro hub to the motherboard using the USB cable. It plugs into the USB 2 internal port.

Finally, link the Pro hub and 6-port hub to SATA power. The connector looks like this

A video explaining this

It might sound confusing, but it's worth it.

u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.

Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.

Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.

u/woundup · 2 pointsr/techsupport

specifically a standard plug is a :

NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13

for a 750w PSU you need 7-8 amp rated cord 10-amp rated is pretty standard 18 awg type like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Standard-IEC-320-C13-P006-015/dp/B00B5Q73Z8

any 18 awg UL listed cord is just fine, and cheap.

better PSUs sometimes use maybe a 14awg cable like:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Computer-IEC-320-C13-P007-006/dp/B0027JRMD0

but a 750W psu doesn't need that thick of a cord, it also won't hurt anything if it has a thicker cord

u/CakeDebris · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is it safe to pack away all of my EVGA G3 cables and use these instead? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7Y3I4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uZy3BbXN6RXP6
The G3 ones are really bulky and my case isn’t that great for cable management.

u/jhalls13 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah it should be fine on the motherboard box, it is also useful for mounting the heatsink, specially if you have a cramped case.

Using a flat head screwdriver against the pins should be fine, they also make little power switches that you can plugin and use just for the power button, they are handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=computer+power+button&qid=1554841558&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

It's not a bad idea, but
I'd recommend THIS kind of splitter over a power strip.

It's more tolerant of odd brick arrangements, and packs easier

u/jerkstore4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I was about to say, ideally you would've wanted the CX500M. Your system should still draw less than 430w though. You may want to check a PSU calculator to get an idea of how close it'll be.

Nobody wants to recommend using the molex to 6-pin adapter. At the end of the day though, they give those adapters out for people in your situation and some people use them.

I was looking for a cable that would take the 8pin (150W) connector and split it into 2x 6-pin (75W) connectors but I didn't see any. I found one that splits it into 2x 6+2 pins, you just wouldn't use the +2 pins. That may possibly be a cleaner long term solution compared to using the molex adapter; then again, they're supposed to both come from a single 12v line.

u/vontrapp42 · 2 pointsr/arduino

That still required cutting a cord and connecting wires.

Even safer would be something like this and a wall wart.

Cablelera Power Cord Extension and Splitter, NEMA 5-15P to NEMA 5-15R x 2, 16 AWG, 13A, 125V (ZWACPQAG-14) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6D3IDbQ0RZ31Q

The relay will probably also require wire connections though so...

Mains is no joke. Please be careful.

u/__T-Bone__ · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I picked up a 45W USB C charger for about USD $34. I don't have my X1C5 yet and I don't know what the charging time difference is between the 65W and 45W charger but it's pretty compact and light.

Edit: I believe what you are looking for is [NEMA 1-15P to C7] (https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OGXY72/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494564618&sr=1-6&keywords=NEMA+1-15P+to+C7). I have never used these and not sure of the quality.

Edit 2: Also, make sure if you need a polarized connector. The one linked above is non-polarized and may not work if the charger requires a polarized one.

u/Rifful · 1 pointr/buildapc

Same, my EVGA 750 G2 came in black, but I did pay extra for a separate set of white cables from Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supply-Individually-Sleeved-100-CW-1300-B9/dp/B00KVLCZLU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469901046&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=evga+whit

Looks like they have three versions though, so if you're going to go for it, make sure you buy the ones matching your PSU.

u/Omg3311 · 5 pointsr/CableManagement

You can buy an 8 pin extension like this to help it reach. Also you can tie the fan cables in a loop so they don't have a lot of slack.

u/Bobsagetluvr · 1 pointr/techsupport

Check on the back of your PSU. It'll either have a switch from 110>230, or be active PFC and have nothing. I am betting that it is the latter, especially for a 1200W unit, I have yet to see one with a switch (I would still check the specs on your PSU either on the side of the unit, or manufacturers website to confirm). This means you just need to buy a different power cord for it. Something like this, your standard C13/5-15P power cable.

Same would probably go for your monitors power supply. Check on it to make sure it has an input range of 100-240v (or close to that), should just need to change the cable from the PSU brick to the wall.

u/TeaSwiz · 3 pointsr/Phanteks

I've only heard great things about the EVGA cables set. If i wasn't trying to save i'd be getting that instead of the Phanteks extensions.

​

EDIT: I got black and going for heavy white lighting and the cables are hopefully going to add a bit more visibility inside. Plenty of colors available from Phanteks and a few from EVGA too !

u/Neptune2284 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I feel really dumb for asking, but here goes anyway!

My friend gave me his Corsair CX600 to help with my first build. Unfortunately he didn't have the original power cable (IE the one that plugs from the back of the PSU into the outlet) anymore. Do I have to get a specific cable, or will a generic one like this work: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501350356&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+power+supply+cable

u/chaos_box · 3 pointsr/EtherMining

First, some numbers for you.

A stock R9 290X will do around 29-30MH/s (Claymore) and use ~250W of power at the GPU side, which translates to 312W from the wall at 80% efficiency. Add ~80W at the wall for the CPU/mobo and you're at ~400W for single-coin mining. That's pretty good even for a 600W PSU (but not good if your electricity is expensive). I've run this card with a 180W card on a 750W PSU with no issues.

I've been able to undervolt an R9 so it hovers around 190W at the PSU at 29MH/s but I haven't had the time to push it further. MSI Afterburner has been weird in applying settings. So that setting draws 350W at the wall for single mining, 450W for dual. OUCH.

Now, in your case - you only have 2 VGA power cables so, like you mentioned, you need to use a 6-pin adapter. You say SATA, but be aware that 1x SATA is specced to provide up to 50W. **DO NOT USE SOMETHING LIKE THIS*: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108494-8-Inch-15-Pin-Express/dp/B009GUP6O0 - first review mentions that they melt! Of course they do, they are pulling all the power from a single SATA pin (even though it goes across two cables, it's the pin that's going to overheat). 6-pin is specced to provide up to 75W, 8-pin up to 150W.

These are much better because 2xSATA (50+50W) exceeds the spec of 6pin (75W) - but I would not do 2xSATA to 8pin:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEXADAP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y91B80
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B01DV1Z22K
https://www.amazon.com/Tenext-Power-Express-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00DP98P0A

Now, the million-dollar question - which rail are your SATA connectors on? You want to be able to provide 150W over the SATA adapters.

TLDR: A
good** 750W PSU is fine for running that combo, but yours might be problematic. You can try, but get dual SATA adapters and definitely watch them for overheating.

u/BigDan8 · 1 pointr/buildapc

So if I get a splitter, I'll be able to hook up the 5 fans for the whole case?

https://www.amazon.com/12in-Pin-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005G3010U

​

Would that be fine?

​

What do I about the CPU fan header? The cooler has 2 fans and I know MOBO's do special things for the CPU fans as far as thermals go.

u/HiIAMCaptainObvious · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: Jballerz

Content:

> https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

>Bitmain makes it clear your power cord needs to be 220-240v or else the power supply will not be able to deliver 1600w. I don't see a voltage anywhere in the information, will this power cord work with my APW3++ for powering a T9/S9? Thanks!

u/Xalteox · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

http://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Video-Y-Splitter-Adapter-Supply/dp/B00A3OVG4W

Best way to go. One came with my GPU when I got it. Check your GPU box, one may have come with it as well.

u/Emo_chipmunk · 2 pointsr/buildapc

OP you could get something like this in the meantime and just route the cable from under your case or something like that. It's not the most practical, but it's easier than jumping your pc or having to possibly ship it back.

https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538976996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Pc+power+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41Sv50VqFdL&ref=plSrch

u/Casper042 · 6 pointsr/RetroPie

Its overkill really.

Connections 5 and 6 on the Pi, the 2 pins on the 3rd row shown in the video, are all you need for power on.
There is no easy power off, thats what the script he has you download in the video does is setup a small background task to watch for someone pressing the button and then shut down gracefully.
If you shut down from the RetroPie menu, you don't technically need this. Its just a nice to have because you can shut down even with no screen/controller attached.

With that being said, you can take any momentary press switch with some standard pin connections and wire it to pins 5 and 6.
Recycle the Reset or Power button from an old PC Case. They have the female connections already attached.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO

EDIT: In case it wasn't obvious, Once that is attached, you can use the script mentioned if you want the button to also shut down. That script has NOTHING to do with his odd little Headphone jack power button.

u/Shock900 · 1 pointr/killingfloor
An AMD Radeon 7970.


Here's my full spec list if that matters.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $194.67 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $33.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI 990FXA-GD80V2 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $171.13 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Free @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $58.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $94.32 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card | $289.99 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill THOR V2-W ATX Full Tower Case | $155.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $176.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $23.98 @ Newegg
Other| NZXT CB-8P 250mm Individually Sleeved 8-Pin Motherboard Power Extension Premium Cable| $8.65 @ Amazon
| |
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-16 13:20 EDT-0400 |
u/FormulaKimi · 1 pointr/macpro

Thanks a lot, I think I'm going to just get the RX 580, this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ6FMF8/ and this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/COMeap-Express-Video-Adapter-15-inch/dp/B07J336WY4/

Once I install the card, will I be able to just go to the App store and download/install Catalina?

Thanks!

u/Wilogana · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to buy 6 of these fans.

My plan is to put 3 on the top of my case as exhaust and the other 3 on the bottom as intake, but my mobo doesn't have enough fan ports (Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4). I plan on hooking each set of 3 fans to two separate fan ports because I checked the amps and it should be ok. However I see that these fans have this connector on them.

Can I hook all three fans together using that connector? Or do I have to purchase a cable splitter like this one?

u/Neatname · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Assuming you're using the Intel stock HSF, that looks fine. You might want to look into getting this set of PSU cables to go with your PSU (they're compatible, I double checked). They're specifically for small form factor builds and I guarantee you'll have a much better time building if you use those.

u/Moonkae · 1 pointr/buildapc

That makes much more sense. Thank you! It's just frustrating, I didn't return the card :). I bought this adapter and hope it works as everything I've read said it's exactly what I need. Thanks again.

u/Cognac_Carl · 1 pointr/battlestations

Its a rubber coated piece of metal. Its heavy enough to hold cables but light enought you can pull the cables out easy. Here's the amazon linkhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GUS4XK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/drzoidberg33 · 1 pointr/buildapc

The one linked in the OP looks like a bad idea. There should be 2 molex to a single 8-pin PCIe connector and 4 wires coming off each molex connector to ensure it's enough to carry that amount of current. Something like these will be safer: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-8-Pin-Molex/dp/B01DV1Z428/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486114393&sr=8-2

u/Amat17 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use the same one for my cpu cooler this will work perfect just make fire all three of the fans are the same.

PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack) TeamProfitcom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VvLrDb5AV9TBJ

u/hootowlserenade · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Had a another thought... How are you turning the pi back on? It sounds like you have power always on to the pi... So do you have to unplug/plug it back in? If so you should remove power from the Pi's micro USB port after your script has run... Or did you install a similar product to the one I posted? That product has a chip built into the board that shuts power off until you press the power switch...

Maybe you could get an in line power switch like this one:
LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BFWLRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qNWvCb93S0Q8F

And once your shutdown script shuts the pi off, power it off with the in line switch... Then when you want it back on just push the button on the in line switch.

u/weezilla · 1 pointr/labrats

Thanks a ton. I'm a little bit less worried now. I bought the 6ft http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Heavy-Duty-IEC-320-C13-P007-006/dp/B0027JRMD0 .

Final update. The shape of the male socket in the hotplate did not allow for this cable to fit, because it had a cylindrical protrusion opposite from the ground (to stop you from using just any power cable). I simply used a drill to drill out a notch on the power cable so that it would fit into the hotplate, while being sure that all I was drilling out was rubber. Sorry I don't have a photo.

u/pcgate · 2 pointsr/sffpc

If you're going to use a video card, yes! Onboard, not really. Find a pcie ribbon cable, and you can keep the video card connections inside the case while keeping the rear of the PC clean.

[Amazon link](http://www.Thermaltake.com/ TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LWy3Cb6W0TBDF)

u/ThomasAgient · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Hello !

I have a 6xEVGA GTX1070 FTW and my PSU is EVGA SUPERNOVA 1300 G2. I have a question: How to power up those cards ?
I'm wondering whether to buy those adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3OVG4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or just second PSU. Let me know in the comments !

u/ScramblingBacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

I posted this earlier, but it didn't get much attention. To this thread!

My friend is building a computer and bought an r9 280x gpu with a Corsair CX 600M PSU. The 280x requires both a 6 and 8 pin pcie power cable, yet the 600M came with a cable like this (an 8-pin to two 6+2 pins).

Can he use just that cable for his 280x or will it run into power problems due to it splitting?

u/zomsabra · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Still don't fucking own it, but its the right size for my components; however in my case there's straight up not enough room for the card to fit WITH the motherboard. So I'm planning on getting a pci-extention cord so I can have some more wiggle room.

u/mypctechs · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Buy a new power cable like this one Amazon Power Cable

Then plug the computer (just the computer and monitor no power strip, etc.) into a different outlet somewhere else in the house, like another room. Begin the process of elimination and work your way back.

Is it the power outlet? The power strip? The power cord?

if it works fine at the computer shop it's probably one of those three.

u/completelydeck · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm pretty sure just a regular, thickly gauged power cord should work.

u/BrixtonMatt · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.

$22.14 12v20a
Cord

u/TechFreeze · 7 pointsr/mac

This is a PowerMac G5 built anywhere from 2003-2006, the most recent compatible Operating System is Mac OS X 10.5.X Leopard. The maximum compatible RAM is 4.0GB - 16GB DDR2 depending on model year and spec.

This is the cord you need if you’re in the US,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005113L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p6EMDbNK9XJM8.

This cable can be found connected to pretty much all desktop computers, A lot of monitors, some gaming laptops and a bunch of random other appliances.

If not in the US the name of the connector that goes to the computer is IEC320C13. The one on the Mac is squared off but a standard plug will fit inside.

u/ChiefMedicalOfficer · 1 pointr/techsupport

Power cable

DVI TO VGA

Please ensure that power cable is correct for the US outlets.

u/Logicalthinking247 · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

I have a bunch of these and they work perfectly PCI-Express PCIE 8 Pin to Dual 8 (6+2) Pin Video Card Y-Splitter Adapter Power Supply Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3OVG4W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/zombieshy_guy82 · 1 pointr/pchelp

It's kinda like an extention for pcie slots, you just plug it into your pcie slot and you can plug in your gpu into the riser so you wouldnt have to cut your case

Here's a link to one if that helps: Thermaltake TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable 200mm AC-053-CN1OTN-C1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LWFLDbJ03562E

u/Doc_Lewis · 24 pointsr/buildapc

I have a nice cable clamp thingy, it makes sure my cables don't move around too much, and I always have enough slack to move the mouse, keyboard, and headphones around.

u/CryptoMatttt · 1 pointr/NiceHash

Yikes, that is rather close for 6x1070s. I would have bought a 1200W PSU just to be safe, as this one will be running at almost 100% capacity 24/7. You can always use a Molex to 6-pin adapter like the one shown here on Amazon. I would avoid adapting SATA to 6-pin if possible though, those can be a fire hazard if you are drawing too much current. If you are out of spots on the actual PSU, you can use a splitter, but again, make sure to be careful you are not pulling too much current or it could pose a fire hazard.

Next time, remember to take your total system TDP and multiply by at least 1.3 to properly size your power supply. In your case, 6x150w for the 6 1070s, then add an extra 50 watts for the cpu. So your sytem TDP is about 950. 950 * 1.3 = 1235. So, you should have gone with a 1200W power supply. If you still have the box, maybe return it and size up a bit.

If you found this information helpful, please donate to me at 35X6priTi9P8aseAjnyQGUNg5guKtU3hH7.

u/firestorm_v1 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get a US "Mickey Mouse" cable. You'll be fine. The power supply is auto-ranging so it will switch to 110V mode (standard US voltage). Then use the UK cables to tie up the neighbor's dog. Here's an amazon link to the cable you need.

Edit: Looks like OP found a cable off a laptop (i'll guess either Dell or HP).

u/apoppin · 1 pointr/nvidia

If you are not going to replace your PSU, the RTX 1650s that come without a power connector are the fastest cards.

But if you are certain your PSU is good enough, you can use a molex adapter with a faster card:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-8-Pin-Inches/dp/B01DV1Z428

u/CPOx · 1 pointr/AVexchange

Yes, it's a standard US power cable.

Same kind that goes into computer power supplies, etc. Looks kinda like this one (except mine is only 6 feet I think) https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Universal-Power-5-15P-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1479328432&sr=1-3&keywords=power+cable

u/ArchiMarK · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Ah, indeed, that mobo has only 2 fan headers for case fans...

You've got a couple of options in that case. The easiest would be to get a 4-pin fan splitter (like this) and hook the two front intakes up to one header while the back exhaust is on the other one. Make sure to not exceed 1A current draw on a single header (look up the fans's specification for their current draw).

When expanding your system and adding fans, a fan controller might be a useful tool. This allows you to hook up a ton more fans and allows for manual control. There are also bigger splitters which hook up to the PSU, but unless you have PWM fans, this will cause the fans to run at full speed all the time, which is not really an enjoyable experience...

u/johnnyp42 · 1 pointr/computers

Not really. Plugging into the slot isn't the problem, it's that the card won't physically fit inside the case. Those slim cases are usually crammed full, even if you got a riser card or one of those extensions there's just nowhere inside the case the card will fit.

I suppose you could get something like this and just leave the card sitting on your desk outside the computer.

u/NotFlameRetardant · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

It uses a standard IEC power cable like you'd plug into your PSU, and I'm 99% sure it came with one.

u/Rancorip · 2 pointsr/buildapc

which mobo are you using?
im sure you cann use something like this:https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-12-Inch-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B005G3010U

u/Wonderfish10 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

This should ease some of the cable management troubles.

I have it in my rig. The end separates so it's easy to pull through small gaps. Also sleeved so it looks nice.

May have to check shipping, tho. Not sure.

u/Omlettwender · 1 pointr/thinkpad

For the keyboard layout it depends if you have any special characters that you won't find on an US keyboard.

For the charger that should not be much of an issue. As far as i can remember all the chargers run on 100-240V and you just need the appropriate cable to connect the charger to your power outlet that is suitable for the outlets in your country. American cable for reference on how they look since I don't know where you're located ;-)

u/TechGirlMN · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

the power supply is fine, but you may need to get an adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DV1Z22K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as I didn't see 6pin PCIe listed among the connectors. The only other thing left to do is run a jumper between the green wire and any black on the 20/24pin connector.

u/benb4ss · 1 pointr/buildapc

4 Pin Fan Power Splitter Cable

If you stay at idle, 1 fan is enough.

u/xalejo_o · 1 pointr/iBUYPOWER

This the splitter i used-
PWM Fan Splitter, TeamProfitcom Adapter Cable Sleeved Braided Y Splitter Computer PC 4 Pin Fan Extension Power Cable 1 to 3 Converter 10 inches (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lvSBDbK690SM3

u/sk9592 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can use fan splitters on a header:

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Computer-Extension-Converter-TeamProfitcom/dp/B07F8LV1BY/

Just make sure that your total current draw is under 1Amp.

Noctua fans actually come with splitters in the box. (except for their redux fans)

u/Lost4468 · 10 pointsr/homelab

Don't cheap out on a PCIe riser like that. It's a very fast standard that's not designed to go very far and has pretty much no protection on it for long distances. That one you linked to is crap and will probably simply not work at all in a noise environment, and I'd be shocked if it ran at high speed. You can't just buy the cheapest cable when buying a PCIe riser, you're not buying a 1M 1080p HDMI cable, cheap ones will fail.

Looking that listing, there's already a bunch of people complaining that it doesn't work in the reviews. If you want to get one which will work you need to be spending $15+, e.g. here's a better one that's actually designed to be a PCIe riser (instead of your link which is just a Chinese company playing connect the connectors, which is also how you end up with absurd things like passive VGA->HDMI cables). I'm also not supporting any product, here's another one that looks well designed.

u/OolonCaluphid · 1 pointr/HardwareSwapUK

Do you have the frame?

You can buy PCIe riser ribons on amazon for £30. Might be an easier option.

Link

u/chimera765 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Just purchased a Gigabyte 970 and I see it has a 6pin+8pin config for power delivery.

I can't seem to find a connector that looks compatible. Would THIS 6+2pin work? Or would a typical 8pin like THIS work?

u/podboi · 1 pointr/buildapc

There are flexible ones like the ones from thermaltake. They also come with different lengths.

u/-Untitled- · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

These can be really helpful for managing cables!

u/Karma_Stock_Buy · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Hey I used the search bar to find this!!! I have this exact same problem. I have XFX RX 580's from BestBuy. They require 8pin and a 6pin power connector. But the cards wont boot with just the 8 pin the lights come on but the fan doesn't spin. The card wont be recognized. It needs both 8pin and 6pin for it to work. How do I get these cards to boot with just the 8 pin? I have 2 750 Watt EVGA. Would I need this converter cable for it to work?

https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Express-Video-Y-Splitter-Adapter-Supply/dp/B00A3OVG4W

u/Stevo32792 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Assuming you mean the 8-pin connector on the top, something like this should work. Doing a search for 8-pin motherboard extension should yield other ones.

u/alf3311 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Denons use a somewhat unusual C18 power receptacle, which takes a C17 to NEMA 1-15 cable (2-prong ungrounded power cable). A "standard" C13 to NEMA 5-15 computer cable will fit and work just fine though (still won't be grounded).

u/TrustMeImALawStudent · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here are two options. The second one is much nicer.

u/sudonem · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

What kind of printer is it? If it's the kind that doesn't have a power brick built in to the power cord, you can pick up a replacement pretty cheaply at MicroCenter

Alternatively:

u/overzeetop · 1 pointr/Surface

The mag connector end or the 120v end that plugs into the wall?

If it's the 120V end, the Surface power bricks use a standard IEC 320 / C7 form factor, like this one for $8 from Amazon.

I have one of these for travelling because it's one less cord and most hotels have an outlet on the desk lamp these days.

u/kirawin · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Thanks for the post! Before this sale, I decided on getting this: PWM Fan Splitter Adapter Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8LV1BY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share for my 6 LL120 fans. Works the same and cheaper

u/azspeedbullet · 6 pointsr/sysadmin

could it be a powersquid/power Splitter like these: https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022808 or https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-29803-Power-Splitter/dp/B000083KIH/ ?

i use them all of the them, reducing the need for a full length surge protector and prevents wall warts from taking up space.

u/RileyBaxter · 1 pointr/electronics

Is there a particular reason you want to charge the phone through the pack? I would just use a simple splitter like this.

u/buying_furniture · 8 pointsr/RetroPie

Plugging it in turns it on. That's about it. You can get a power switch if you'd like to make is easier though. I've got a similar one to this, https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Switch-Raspberry-Female/dp/B018BFWLRU. Works fine for me but might not provide enough power for some rigs.

Also, some folks just keep their pi on all the time which negates the need to power it up.

u/nightpanda2810 · 1 pointr/MSILaptops

US guy here, but I think I can help, somewhat.

The cable from the brick to the wall, correct? No reason to cut anything IMO, I'd just buy the correct cable for this. They are fairly inexpensive, so I'd personally get the cable instead of using an adapter.

Here is the US equivalent, should help you find what you need. The "Mickey-Mouse" looking end is what plugs into the brick.

https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimted-6-feet-Mickey-Mouse/dp/B000234TYI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493401834&sr=8-3&keywords=mickey+mouse+cable

u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You mean the one from the wall to the PSU? It's standardized so you should be able to find one easy, you probably have some and don't realize it.

If not: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/

u/purtymouth · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Power cords are universal, so don't worry about getting an alienware brand power cord. You need any old 18 gauge computer power cord, and you'll be good to go.

u/Bayminer · 1 pointr/Ravencoin

Here is a good riser

https://www.amazon.com/Express-Powered-Adapter-Extension-Currency/dp/B072KCT191


To power the risers use 6 pin from your PSU or if you don’t have enough put two molex from your PSU into these

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Molex-Power/dp/B01DV1Z22K

u/Remo_253 · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Verify that the computer has a power cord running to an electrical outlet. The cord will look like this: Example.

Next, verify that the power supply, where that power cord plugs into the computer, isn't turned off. In this example it's the rocker switch to the left of where the power cord plugs in. This is different from the power switch on the front that starts the PC.

>Power buttons and switches are usually labeled with "I" and "O" symbols. The "I" represents power on and the "O" represents power off.

VERY IMPORTANT / CRITICAL

If there's a switch labeled 120/240, usually red in color, DO NOT CHANGE IT

u/NanoDice · 1 pointr/Roku

Thank you. Will this work? I don't know what AWG means..

u/RichardBLine · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Someone asked the same question above, so I just copied and paste the answer below. Also, consider getting a small extension cord, like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105297-16AWG-Power-Extension/dp/B006VK7X1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-3&keywords=short+extension+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-9&keywords=short+extension+cord,


Product Height 2.5 inches

Product Width 1.4 inches

Product Depth 5 inches

Product Weight 0.35 pounds

u/xBLKGH05Tx · 1 pointr/Amd

Seems like those 2 daisy chained cables would look like a mess tho. What about one of these?
COMeap Dual Mini 6 Pin to 8 Pin PCI Express Video Card Power Adapter Cable for Mac Pro Tower/Power Mac G5 15-inch(38cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J336WY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dK2PDbJPHWSQC
Or would that be the same as splitting the power of a single PSU port?

u/_pseudonym · 1 pointr/techsupport

Also available on amazon for the same price, or you can get a nice sleeved extension in red/black/white for a bit more.

u/adudeinblue · 1 pointr/buildapc

An power cord powers the monitor.

Most likely something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03134-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407266037&sr=8-1&keywords=monitor+power+cord

But of course each monitor is different. Check your monitor's manual online.

u/amZNeZk1 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

This is in my wishlist https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8C6ULO - Anker USB Type-C, Anker Premium 5-Port 60W USB Wall Charger PowerPort+ 5 USB-C with Power Delivery for Apple MacBook, Nexus 5X / 6P and PowerIQ for iPhone, iPad, Samsung & More. Plus something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OGXY72 (already shown below)

u/hiryuux · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Would you be interested in a set of Silverstone flat short cables? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7Y3I4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uriKAb35742VG

u/svenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

It would help to know the model of MSI RX 580 you're referring to, the model of the power supply, and the exact nature of the power adapter you're using (e.g. Molex to PCIe 8-pin, etc.)

u/gewruiaqhgeuiabghrey · 2 pointsr/Surface

The great thing with adhering to a global standard (though in fact Apple does too, but as usual only on their own terms) is that you have options.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OGXY72

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-adapter-60320-C7-receptacle/dp/B004OHHKSU

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Profile-Non-Polarized-IEC320/dp/B01886W21C

u/Chalk_01 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Any 120v monitor power cable will work. Like this.

u/jwilson8767 · 1 pointr/Monitors

Looks like your monitor has a built-in power adapter. All you need is a normal three prong power cord

u/beaub05 · 6 pointsr/htpc

If it's anything like the last generation of NUCs you'll also need a mickey mouse power cord

u/vortex1324 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I just bought some of these to use for this exact purpose. It has 8 pins. Each pin is rated for 7-10 amps from what I gather online. This is plenty for the hot end in most cases. 2 wires for heater 2 for fan 2 for thermistor and 2 for cooling fan. Also pre crimped. Just gonna cut it in the middle and solder the wires to it. You get the male and female for 5 bucks. Can't beat it. amazon link