Reddit mentions: The best automatic irrigation equipment

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The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
  Set-up Recommendations
  
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
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i think the other user is making a big deal about things that aren't actually red flags in and of themselves. but since i've been tagged, and you said you have humidity issues, i'll post my copypasta.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

If you haven't purchased anything yet, I would recommend looking into either a tub or a pvc enclosure. Glass tanks can work, but they take a lot of modifications in order to get them to optimal humidity and temperatures for ball pythons. The 42qt Iris Weathertight tub is highly recommended as a good first enclosure for a ball python before upgrading to an Animal Plastics or Boaphile PVC enclosure. This is a good tutorial on making a tub enclosure. I have the Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python. A glass tank doesn't hold heat, and a screen top can let humidity escape.

You're gonna need an under tank heater - this is not really a place to be going cheap - you're gonna want to invest in an ultratherm heat pad or flexwatt heat tape. I've got my BP on the Flexwatt that was an add on item when getting my Animal Plastics T8. The stick on pads you see at pet stores, such a Zilla and ZooMed, can short out rather quickly and you cannot really re-use them easily. My rainboa boa has the ultratherm under tank heater which I ordered from Reptile Basics.

You might also want to look into radiant heat panels if going the PVC route - this helps keep ambient air temperatures where they need to be (over 75F) or a ceramic heat emitter. Stay away from anything that gives off visible light, even red light, as bp's can see it and if left on at night it can mess up their sleep/wake cycle.

Any heating element also needs a thermostat. You place the probe on the mat, between it and the surface you are attaching it to, and plug the heating element into the thermostat and then set the appropriate temperatures. Failure to do so might result in a badly burned ball python. Even the good heating elements can get too hot. I'd look into InkBird / JumpStart as brands for cheap thermostats that a lot of people seem to like. They do make a loud clicking sound when they turn on. If you can, I'd highly suggest shelling out for a Spyder Robotics Herpstat. I've got the Herpstat 2 and it's really phenomenal.

You will also need thermometers and hygrometers. Stay away from the analogue stick on ones - they are inaccurate and become unstuck from the wall but still sticky enough to stick to your BP, and possible remove your BP's skin. I like this indoor / outdoor one from Acurite - I've got the "outdoor" probe affixed to the warm side via hot glue and the unit itself on the cool side, so I can get humidity / cool side / warm side temps all in one glance. You'll also want an IR temp gun to spot check occassionally.

Hides you want something enclosed on all sides, with a small ofset opening. I really like these ones from Reptile Basics (which can also sometimes be found on Amazon). They are perfect for snakes. BP's like to feel enclosed on all sides so a predator cannot ambush them from behind, this is why half logs are no good: they don't provide that security. You can absolutely incorporate them into your set up as cute decor, but they are insufficient as hides. You're gonna want at least one hide on the cool end and one on the warm. I have about 5 total hides in my BP's enclosure, spread out along the temperature gradient.

For substrate you can go simple with paper towels, or fancy with coconut husk or reptibark. I'd suggest staying away from aspen, as it molds really quickly. BP's need at least 60% humidity, and something like coconut husk holds that better without quickly molding. You're gonna wanna make sure that when you are measuring warm side temperatures, that you are measuring the surface of the enclosure, not the top of your substrate. Mine will burrow down and move all of the substrate out of the hide, so I make sure that the warmest part she can get to is never higher than 90F.

Humidity needs to be over 60%, I accomplish this in my PVC enclosure by just keeping a water dish in it, one that is large enough for her to fit in and soak if she wants to. I change it out about every three days (or more often if she decides to poop in it). I don't use anything like ReptiSafe, if I can drink the tap water, so can my animals.

I put leaves and fake vines (plastic, no metal wire) in her enclosure, too. They like to feel invisible and hidden, and these leaves and vines give her some of that while also providing a more natural aesthetic.

I just bought an irrigation system for my veggies and flowerbeds.

I've been holding off forever - but honestly if you can spend the money it is a huge time and mind space saver.

Heres what I got on Amazon - have not installed it yet but from the reviews it's "the best cheap option - and good enough to get the job done"

Vegetable Garden Drip Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VARBBX2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_PkTmzbC74E78M

Lots of other ones available - good luck!

Sure, people split drip lines all the time. Get a big rubbermaid type tote. Run a 1/2 inch line with one end attached to the pump and the other end clamped off. Tap into the main line 4 times with these https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-BC25-10PS-Irrigation/dp/B000FK011S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482287260&sr=8-3&keywords=tap+irrigation and run 1/4 tubing from the main line to each of your emmiter heads. Keep in mind that the pump will have a harder time pumping water the lower the level falls. Also, don't have the water level in your reservoir higher than your emitters or the water could be siphoned out even if the pump isn't running. You're on a bit of a time crunch to get this together and tested before Christmas, but I wish you good luck. They'll have everything you need, plus more complete advice at a local hydro shop. Should be super cheap to get everything together if you already have the pump. Cheers ;)

I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.

Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.

I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.

Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.

You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.

I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.


So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.

Did you watch the discussion video?

The wax in the measuring cup was barely liquid, it was quite manageable. I do agree that it would be nicer to have a melt pot and ladle the wax out from there. I've been eyeing this and this.

Yeah, wax does make a mess. I usually have a set of sheets set aside for wax play. I have been impressed with the beeswax as it's more solid when it dries and It was easy to clean up.

Soy wax is the absolute easiest as it washes out of most things.

Amazon sells a auto waterer that's powered by AAs and/or a usb cord, I use one for one of my indoor trees, just hook it in the side of a 5 gallon bucket and set it for how often you want it watered, the little brass filter will clog, it's best to take it off and weigh the hose down with something so it stays at the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0743F4532/

Super easy and I've been using mine for a couple of months now, no issues so far except for the clogged filter thing. Make sure you test it before, and make sure it's set for minutes not seconds.

Smart Thermostat: I use the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat (as my smart home is "mostly" Z-Wave). I considered Ecobee (I hate Nest), but went with this as I don't really need a "learning" thermostat...do this temperature when I am home, do that one when I am not home.

Sprinkler control: Rachio (Amazon Link) - best sprinkler controller I have ever had...depending on where you live, you might even get a rebate on your water due to the water savings this has.

Smart Door Lock: Kwikset (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave as I use Z-Wave. A cool thing about this lock is that you can re-key it yourself.

Temperature Sensor: SmartThings Motion Sensor (Amazon Link) - it reports temperature, and it's ZigBee

Leak Sensor: Samsung SmartThings Leak Sensor (Amazon Link) - it's ZigBee, but I have built out a smaller ZigBee network too.

Garage Door Opener: GoControl (Amazon Link) - again Z-Wave.

​

Multi-Purpose Sensor: SmartThings (Amazon Link) - Open/Close, Temperature, Vibration: I have one of these on each my closet doors (when I open the door, the closet light turns on...when I close the door the light turns off). I also have one on my Gun Safe (so I get notified if my gun safe door is open...also get vibration notifications if it's being tampered with)

The temperature/motion sensor is a nice combination. For example, I have one of these outside on my lanai. When it detects motion, it turns the fans on...but only if the temperature is over 74 F). I have a few of these inside that turn on small table lamps at night when motion is detected (versus large/bright lights) because the night is dark, and full of terrors.

​

Don't know if you have a pool, but I use iAqualink as my pool controller. It has it's own app, and now integrates with Alexa (doesn't integrate with SmartThings yet). But it's nice being able to turn on the spa and spa heater while out for dinner, and having it be up to temperature by the time you get home.

​

Oh - and check out Sonos for whole house audio. I SOOOOOOOOO love my Sonos speakers.

Hi! A little late to the party, but something else to keep in mind that I did not see mentioned is that you will definitely want a thermostat (not just a thermometer) to regulate the heat from your heat pad and/or Ceramic Heating Element. You will probably want one for each heat element, although CHEs can be controlled with dimmer switches as well I believe.

A thermostat lets you regulate the output of a heat pad or CHE. This is important because without regulation, it is possible for either of them to overheat beyond typical heating abilities. This could lead to extreme temperatures in your tank that could burn the snake or even cause neurological damage if it's hot enough.

I'm taking my list of suggestions from other users who post around snek subreddits as I am not yet a snek owner myself :(.

Cheap options are Jump Start thermostats, although they do not have safety features that will shut down the heating element if the thermostat fails. Another option that's in the same price range but a bit safer is an Inkbird thermostat. If you wanna splurge and get a very high quality thermostat for your little buddy, you can go for a Spyder Robotics thermostat.

Also, not necessarily required but useful and fun: an Infrared Thermometer

This doesn't make any sense to me... What people want to grow their own food but don't actually like gardening and are also willing to pay significantly more than if they just purchased their produce?

The scale is too small for there to be any positive returns during the life of the unit, especially if you ever need to replace parts or do maintenance. And better alternatives already exist! You can achieve almost the same thing on a 3x larger scale^1 for 2% of the cost^2 and less time:

You'll have to plant the seeds yourself, but on a small scale that is such a nominal task it is hardly an advantage to the FarmBot, especially because you still have to load seeds and attachments into the FarmBot (and clear out the inevitable jams). And the time to set up the landscaping fabric and irrigation system is almost certainly less than setting up and programming the FarmBot, with less maintenance and much fewer potential points of failure.

------

^1 The Farmbot Genesis kit has a 4.5 m^2 compared to the ~14 m^2 provided by the landscaping fabric.

^2 Automated irrigating and weed prevention system from Amazon:

• Drip Irrigation Kit: 23.99
  
  
• Irrigation Timer: 32.97
  
  
• Landscaping Fabric: 14.99
  
  
• Total: $71.95 (compared to $2,900...)
  

I use one of these with great success. It's cheap, it's simple and it's worked well for me for ages. I have the intake tube stuck through a hole in the lid of a 5 gallon bucket full of water with the nutes already mixed in.

It's pretty simple, set the length of time to water, tell it how many times a day to water and that's it. I'm using 1 unit for my tent containing 4-5 plants. I'd estimate that I've got it pretty close to maxed out. You might be able to do 6-7 plants if they were smaller or otherwise didn't need a ton of water.

Ah! Well, you'd need to redo your legs so they stretch back more like this.

Then the cup holder post is just a piece of 1/2" PVC that are spray painted.

The cup holders are 3D printed (I'd be happy to print some for you)

The lights are these, which work really well as they can be rotated to shine on the boards. /ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Also need a PVC coupler to insert into the crossmember on the legs, the PVC Cupholder Post sits inside the coupler when playing.

You can get a better idea from the pictures of this set I built last summer.

I've tried the lights in the hole and although they are better than nothing, they're distracting and often too bright. Lights above the board, like my sets, shine down on the whole board, not just the hole (seeing as I hit the board but not the hole most often, this is what I needed...)

The cupholders/lights also store under the boards for storage/transport as seen here.

Let me know if you're interested in getting a set of printed cup holders and we can work out a price + shipping.

Oh i was looking on my phone before. The retro-1800 model is a low flow sprayer head. Typically you see these in beds with drought resistant plants. These work fine but waste a little more water than drip tubing. This may be an easier way for you to lower your water out

Typically when someone says "drip irrigation" they mean tubes like this. Its the most efficient way to water the soil - there is much less wasted water. You just space the tubes as far apart as the emitters are spaced.

This tubing will work with the RCKIT. But it does not look like RCKIT includes a filter. The drip tubing gets clogged pretty easily so typically you put a filter like this inline after the valve and a flush valve that periodically flushes the drip tube of any sediment buildup. Both of thes would be placed in a small box. Sediment buildup and drip tubes clogging can be a big deal if you are using non-potable water like well water. It's not nearly as big of an issue for systems using potable water.

As I'm sure you already know, Plant growth and health is limited by 3 factors on a sliding scale. Light, nutrients, and co2. If any of them are not present it inhibits the plant's ability to uptake the other two. I struggled for a very long time in my 20 gallon until I CONSISTENTLY provided all 3.

• At first it was the lighting. I couldn't get algae under control so I cut my light schedule then slowly tried to ramp it back up. It fucked up everything in my tank and black beard algae went ham on everything. The final solution I came to and the one that has been working excellently now is a schedule of - On from 7am-1pm, off til 5pm, On from 5pm to 9pm. The "siesta" in the middle allows for a build-up of CO2 (Walstad Method) and also severely inhibits bad algae growth (I need some algae as I have ottos, snails, and amano shrimp). First, I would suggest my lighting schedule and see how it works for you. If you aren't using timers they are absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. (Keep in mind we are using the exact same light, Planted+).
  
  
• Nutrients...I can't stress enough how important consistent, long-term fertilization is. I have some low-grow repens in my tank. When I first planted them they barely did anything. Once i dialed in my CO2 injection, and was consistently EI dosing for a few weeks they absolutely exploded. Something then happened in my family and I neglected the fertilization schedule for just about 1 week...and eeeeevery, single, part of it completely died off and melted away aside from the central stem. Instead of pulling them, I figured, "what the hell" and just started fertilizing again and within 3 weeks they were absolutely gorgeous and taking over my tank again. If you get a 1lb bag each of Potassium Nitrate, Monosodium Phosphate, and a Trace product called CSM+B, they will run about $30.00 total and last you for YEARS. Dosing is beyond easy as long as you have a scale ($8 on Amazon). Here is the calculator I use: http://www.aquariumcalculators.com/aquarium-plant-food/estimative-index/
  
  
• Seeing that you are in Alaska it seems like CO2 is going to be the most difficult aspect to integrate into your system. If you have access to a sporting goods store that refills CO2 canisters for Paintball then you can do what I am doing. All you would need (These are literally the items I bought from Amazon):
  
  
  • CO2 canister: link
    
    
  • Adapter to run canister to a silinoid regulator: link
    
    
  • Silinoid regulator so you can turn the co2 on and off with your light timer: link
    
    
  • We havent talked about filters but if you happen to be running a canister filter you can inject the CO2 inline with a reactor like this on your outflow: link
    
    
  • And in case you aren't running a canister a simple diffuser like this will do jut fine: link
    
    The startup cost is a bit, but once you are up and running it only costs ~$4.00 to refill a 24oz. Canister and one canister lasts me a month and half easy.
    
    If you don't have access to co2 refills then a DIY setup would be the only option and I have absolutely no experience with those unfortunately. One other option, while more expensive, are the fluval injection systems: link
    
    

1. Make sure you fertilize consistently. I highly recommend EI dosing.
   
   
2. Try my lighting schedule
   
   
3. Figure out a way to introduce co2 to your tank.

New question. Is a manifold like this good?

I'm thinking of using the Ecoplus 396 gph from amazon as my pump. I'm pumping about three feet up, and thinking of using 1/4" tubing. Is 396 gph overkill for 6x5' rails, each 3" diameter. If the pump is flowing too much is it bad for the pump to use a manifold or some valves to restrict flow?

I'm using 2" net pots, mostly for lettuce and spinach and basil and the like. What size rockwool should I get. Should I add clay pellets like for larger plants? Should I use bigger cubes?

ALSO, is there a cheap way to cap off the ends of a pvc pipe? The 3" caps are like 3 bucks each, and I need 12 of them which is close to how much I spent on the pipe itself. I figured maybe just make sure the ends are flat and glue a peace of plastic to the end?

Sorry for all the questions. This is my first NFT and as I'm assembling the thing I'm getting a clearer picture of what I haven't figured out yet. Anyway thanks!

Blumats, it's a drip kit but the carrot that is in the ground there senses how wet the soil is and you can set it to maintain the same moisture level so it never gets too wet or dry. It's pressure fed, so you just need a res with a little fish tank aerator and little pump to keep everything moving.

Got it cause I was going away for a few days and my coco needed to be watered every day... so nice not having to mix nutes every day as an added bonus. Definitely worth it.

Amazon primable for free shipping

I will definitely have to grab a timer for my light.

The small system Im going to use is this

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oqC0Cb786QFCK

5M Micro Irrigation Set Water Misting Cooling Drip Sprinkler System for Patio Garden Landscape Flower https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072VBBN6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLC0CbDFGCF5T


I plan on using wooden dowels drilled into the wooden crates so that I can vertically position the misting nozzles properly. The rest of the line/drip nozzles I will secure to the wood and run to the plants to (hopefully) keep it looking clean.

Im considering a basic wooden ikea type shelf where I can separate the Bonsais and strategically place lights / misting nozzles above.

Hopefully these links work..Im pretty new to redit and this is only my 3rd post. I apologize if it doesn’t work.

Thanks! Not any guide in particular, but cobbled together ideas from a few, mostly from this awesome Instructable

I did find a cheap(ish) lazy watering system that made the plumbing a lot easier, and most of it off amazon as I don't have many good hardware stores near me and absolutely no room for serious carpentry or plumbing (1 bed flat in Central London...). Links are below though:

Solar Powered Waterpump - £20

Recycled Plastic Container - £15

Recycled Plastic 15 Litre Plant Pots - £10 for 12

Reusable Nylon Fine Mesh Food Strainer - £30 for 5

Hozelock Easy Drip Micro Kit - £30 for 15 drippers

Vermiculite - £40 for 100l (waaaaay too big, I miscalculated here!)

Perlite - £20 for 100l (again...)

Probably worth saying I intend to extend the system with a second setup so I had to 'overbuy' components... I'd estimate that the total cost of the components for the system in the video was roughly £70, which, given that I had to use amazon for everything, and most of it is reusable, I'm not too upset about!

The marine should hold (assuming it bonds to the plastics properly). Marine resins can take 7 days to fully cure. It's worth noting that there are some pretty extreme carcinogens in marine rated resins.

I'm not sure what hardware stores have in way of hydro-friendly gaskets, but you might be better off just buying the General Hydroponics Waterfarm kit. It's only $12 and you can pretty much guarantee it'll work if you drill the right hole size and just hook it up to new tubing of the same size (take tubing to a Home Depot, they should have tubing of the right size). If you decide at a later date you want a drip rig, you're already part way there.

/u/relaymail beat me to it. I have been using the 1/2 mainline and 1/4 drip emitter tubing for a few years now on my raised beds and it's been great.

You can see how I have it set up in - this pic

Since the pic was taken I've buried all the mainline so I don't have any showing except for where it comes up and across the beds, then back down.

I have had the best luck with [this main line from MisterLandscaper] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZNPE4I/) compared to some others. It's a bit more stiff than some of the others which has helped it hold up, makes it easier to poke holes in for adding drip lines, and it held up very well to trenching in between beds.

[This drip line from Toro] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026TA5JE/) is the one I settled on, preferring less flow more frequently to more flow every foot. This is half as much water every six inches, versus twice as much every foot. Yields the same water, total, but spreads it out a bit more, which should be more flexible for planting things.

Lastly, I've been using Rain Bird fittings and connectors, with Orbit water timers.

So far, so good! Let us know how the project turns out!

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0743F4532?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

It might be perfect for you then. When it was working well, I loved it.

looks good. if your interested in exploring this type of cooking more but don't want to spring for an anova or other sousvide cooker. use the crockpot method. more precise. and can do longer cooks without losing heat.

basically you hook this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5097413/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12722699865548230849&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017523&hvtargid=pla-326308171578

inline with your crockpot. then put the temp probe in the water. bring water up to temp with high once its at temp though switch it to low or warm, otherwise the heater element gets too much momentum during heat cycles and overshoots the temperature. this is what I use currently. i've done 48hr chuck roasts in it and works awesome.

Here's the album with descriptions.

Parts list:

1. Submersible aquarium pump. This way, I'm using electricity to pump water upwards, and don't need to elevate my water tank like in a Blumats system.
   
2. Pipe fitting to attach a manifold to the pump. I got one at my local hardware store, but I think this is the same thing.
   
3. 3/8" tubing to connect the pump to the manifold.
   
4. A kit with a bunch of 1/4" tubing to actually deliver water to the plants.. You could probably do it cheaper if you knew exactly which components you needed to buy, but I didn't so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
   
5. Manifold.This takes the water that comes from my pump and splits it into up to 8 1/4" lines to deliver to plants.
   
6. 5-gallon bucket. I already had one for vacuuming up my water, but you can get one for like 5 bucks at Home Depot.
   
   Total cost: ~$60. Not having to pH, add nutes, add calmag, etc. individually to like 10 individual cans of water: priceless!
   

You can use either an overhead heat source like a ceramic heat emitter (they put off heat and no light) or an under tank source like an undertank heat pad. Any kind of source needs to be on a thermostat (such as this one) so it doesn't get too hot. IIRC, cali kings need a hotspot of around 85F.

It does sound like he's trying to shed. You may need to bring the humidity up a bit for him. Misting a couple of times a day with a hand mister might help him out (distilled or reverse osmosis water will prevent water spots on glass). Another option is to make a humid hide. Some kind of container that is completely sealed except for one entrance, with some damp sphagnum moss inside.
You can also provide him a deep water dish...big enough for him to lay in. My Florida kingsnake likes to lay in his water dish from time to time, but they like a bit more humidity in general compared to calis.

I've been using this little auto-watering pump I got off amazon. It draws from a 5 gal bucket and puts out 1 C of water per 60 second run. Plenty for my seed trays. Not bad for $40. The Space heater is on a timer and keeps it about 10*F warmer than the ambient temp at night... not sure if this will be enough when it drops down to 16* next week but I assume it will be OK as I am only keeping cold hardy stuff in there for now and my tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant are inside under a fluorescent shop light til April. Zone 6a TN.

​

Sure they are. A garden hose shut off valve costs around two dollars and is a great thing to have.

It really helps when you're filling water balloons, too.

Go get some Sledgehammer flush. and run it through the plant after you have let the soil dry for 4- 5 days. Do yourself a favor and buy an automated watering system, which will run you about 35$ on amazon. This way you will be able to have precise watering on a schedule and prevent this type of noob mistake.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743F4532/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here the one i use. I just went to the store and bought a 5 gallon jug and use it for the reservoir. Best move ever. Also, if it is your first grow, take a tip from an old head and DONT fuck with them too much. Less is more with growing.

I got to thinking... if you’re getting a lot of rust it sounds like you have galvanized pipes. If that’s the case, all new sprinklers com with a filter at the the nozzle. If you have pvc, this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-PRF07530S-Irrigation-Regulating/dp/B006JZ51MC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=drip+filter&qid=1565144267&s=gateway&sprefix=drip+filter&sr=8-3

This is 3/4” so if you have one inch you’ll have to get adapters. But still.... with pvc you can get a new sprinkler with a filter at the nozzle. That’ll be much easier and more cost effective whichever pipe you have.

Have you just drilled holes for water, or have you actually added in drip irrigation heads? The heads will help prevent oddities in water pressure and will better regulate everything. You can even pair them with 1/4 tubing and couplings to get the water where you want it to go. In my experience, the heads are better than the soaker hoses.

I put a bit of grow big in the water and hoped for the best. I wasn't really sure what would happen. [Upgraded] Automatic Drip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9ZH7PQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the exact system I’m using.

Blumat Automatic Watering Sensors - 5 Plant Starter Drip System - Made in Austria - Great for all Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQXFBWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ThyQBb5QBB12W

It didn’t seem to interfere. Although I did have 1 over water incident 2/3rds or the way through maybe the roots prevented it from sensing saturation. After I reset the dial it was fine hmmmm.

haha better deal this is what i bought

https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-58086N-Plastic-Shut-Off-Coupling/dp/B00004S25R/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498054902&sr=1-1&keywords=plastic+hose+valve

Fermentation temp will be higher than ambient, so 65-72 ambient could be pushing you out of optimal for some yeasts, though you could be fine.

I bought a chest freezer on sale and an inkbird temp controller and this works well for me and would fit in your budget. Even more so if you’re willing to find a Craigslist freezer. My (7 cu ft?) freezer can squeeze in two PET carboys if needed, though I currently just do 5 gal batches.

Skip this. It is going to fugg up on you and you wont be able to fix it. You got a few things to automate. It aint so hard. Most of it you need anyhow. Last item is the most computer automation you need.

1. Lights- easy they are on a simple mechanical timer. 12/12, 18/6, 24/0 are common settings.
   
   
2. Water- I use a rainbird drip irrigation.
   . Simple to set water timer. Buy the parts you need in bulk if you have a lot of plants. Drainage also needs to considered. Water can be collected and moved with a condensation pump. Low Depot has them.
   
   
3. Fert- I am a soil guy so I add dry organic ferts into the soil before planting. They are generally non-water soluble. And become more available over time.
   
   
4. Temp- I use fans/filter combo with simple plug-into thermostat. I prefer 8" to 6" diameter fan.
   A simple heater with thermostat set for 70 will turn on as needed.
   
   
5. Humidity- Dehumidifier's are cheap on Craigslist. I set mine to 50%. The water collected goes into the drain. Humidifier is usually needed when lights are on set to 50%. I add water automatically to it from drip irrigation line any overflow goes into drain.
   
   
6. CO2- if you are doing this it. The controls necessary make it automatic except for CO2 tanks. If you use a burner you can conect to your home gas service so there is no tank change.
   
   
7. Get a temp/humidity logger than can send alerts to your phone. Avoid ones that require a regular service fee. I like and use a sensorpush. There maybe better ones available now I havent looked in awhile.
   
   Get a calendar, set up a schedule for 8 weeks harvest. Plan to be home for harvest, cleanup and replanting. You might want to try autoflowers. They need less interaction. Hit me up if you have any questions.

Here is the pump I’ve only been using it a few weeks so I can’t tell you anything about its longevity but I like it. You can set it to run for 1-99 seconds in intervals from 1hr to 30 days. Unfortunately that means a little math. For example I found with my setup it pumps 1 gallon in 540 seconds. So for 1/4gallon / day / each of 3 plants = 68 seconds of watering every 4 hours.

If you get it don’t use the clear tubing that comes with it. Get some proper black irrigation tubing so you don’t get stuff growing in the lines.

Next time use something like THIS It saved my plants when I was away for 1 week.

This is a complet waterfarm kit, just need a res and grow chamber It's not very expensive but good stuff still.

Very cool you're using Amazon Smile mate.

There are a couple of alternatives, a couple of folk I know are using the one you linked.

I bought this one but it broke on fairly quick. So I used the manifold and set up my own auto feed system using a smartplug and a water pump. I used the manifold off the green thing though, this is my set up.

A lot of people use BluMats very successfully (both the originals and the knock-offs). Maybe those could be your way forward?

If you want to save time refilling, I got one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9ZH7PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ZpeDDbY2RV7S4

I have it screwed into a water bottle top over a 1 gallon container that I refill with distilled water weekly. I have it set to run for 30 seconds twice a day and it keeps the whole thing nice and moist.

basically bought this https://www.amazon.ca/Automatic-Irrigation-Houseplants-Programmable-Operation/dp/B0743F4532/ref=sr_1_19?crid=11LXMM521O95X&keywords=drip+irrigation+system&qid=1559330762&s=gateway&sprefix=drip+iri%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-19

​

1. a tote/water storage bucket
   
2. 1/4 inch tubing, I think I've used 30-40 ft but that's cuz I've messed a bunch up
   
3. 1/4 inch drip emitters
   
4. 1/4 tubing connectors
   
5. just bought a 130 GPH pump (coming in mail)
   
6. 1x digital controller on amazon (idk there are dozens), (coming in mail)
   
   ​
   
   You can get pretty much everything from Home Depot. They have a section for drip irrigation at the big one near me.

You need this device and a heater. It can be used to cool also. It has 2 outlets for each. Set it and forget it. Other redditors told me about it and it's a blessing. Inkbird

Yep. 9 months of the year, anyway. I hook one of these to the exhaust on each tent. Set it to kick on at 76, off at 73.

In the Summer, they run all the time during lights on (holding at ~80 degrees). Fall and Spring they run about half the time. I'm in a cold climate, so in my winters I have to make some adjustments (62 degree ambient).

During the cold months, I leave the thermostat in place, but run a small duct fan before the exhaust, which runs 24/7. It's enough to keep humidity from building up too much, which it would normally. Especially during the dark cycle. . .also, I run COBs and Strip fixtures, which generate very little heat, so Jan/Feb my tents might not hit 76 degrees, at all. Then I dial down, and grow everything between 62 degrees (dark) and 72 degrees (light).

TBH, I've only done one winter cycle with the COB/Strip LEDs, but the plants grown in the cold were better, quality-wise, then the summer plants. Although a bit less yield. . .all that is anecdotal, of course.

Oh, also, if you aren't already, consider how to exhaust back into your room as the cold weather comes. It'll keep humidity up, and you won't be exhausting warm air, only to pay to warm that air again.

Drip irrigation.

You get a Galcon Timer which yes, it's battery-powered it used a 9-volt battery which should be replaced three times a year.

That plus a Drip Irrigation Kit and some more Drip Emitters and more Tubing and your elbows and your t-fittings is basically all you need to build out an irrigation system.

You may want a few landscape stakes to hold the tubing in placewhile you setup the system.

So I have one question: are you sure it's "servo-actuated" valves or just solenoid valves?

If you're concerned with just on/off, I use solenoid valves all the time. You're really looking for low flow rates for the houseplate irrigation system, so it will be cheap too. Amazon example.

If you're actually concerned with the RATE of flow that servo valves would give you, I'd recommend that you either control the flow from the pump (modulate frequency), or use rate limiters specific to each plant. Like this will limit it to 1 gallon/hr.

this is my first time hearing about blumat. can you describe which tote resevoir you use, and how you connect the reservoir to blumat? I saw this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Deck-Planter-5-Pack-Starter/dp/B00IQXFBWA/

But it looks like one still need to get the reservoir the tubing/connectors for the reservoir?

I used this line. You can only run so many feet of emitter line from a single emitter tap, in my case it was 18 feet. So, I ran one of these emitter taps into the 1/2" line for each 16 feet (I have 8 foot beds), each going up and back in a row (effectively 2 lines).

I found the 1/4" line is a lot easier to get and keep in place than the 1/2" line - so I only use the 1/2" line for the supply run around to all the raised beds, then I used the 1/4" line and 1/4" emitter tubing to run into the beds.

Low 30's would be freezing temperatures and overkill IMO. Low 40's is plenty cold for beer. I would recommend not wasting a shitload of money on a fridge and just get a reasonably priced one and then hook it up to a temerature controller like this. This will allow you to hold consistent temperatures +/- 2-4 degrees F.

I just set up a really basic watering system so that they got watered while on vacation, using:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JPIJG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018WVNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (I should have gotten larger, but this works)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I timed how long it took for the pump to go thru a 5 gallon bucket (my normal amount to water) 3 times, and set the timer to go off for a little longer than it took on average, on the day I wanted them to get watered.

I'm now using it to water since I'm in flower and it's easier to just let it water them while in darkness, since I'm only awake for a little time they are getting light.

Check out this controller.

[Rachio](Rachio 3 WiFi Smart Lawn Sprinkler Controller, Works with Alexa, 8-Zone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ864Y9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3QDIBb1EN0DSY)

Inkbird thermostat, I figured it would be good enough to use temporarily. I have my other snake on a Herpstat 2 and I intend to use it for the BP too, once she's done with quarantine.

I use this temp gun to check the temps under the hide, at least once a day.

How long do you think an inverter/car battery setup would run a small water pump to water plants? What would be a good way to recharge the car battery? Are you saying there are more options to run a water pump/timer remotely? Cause my crop is far away from traditional means of power and water and I'm trying like crazy to find a reasonable way to do this so I can setup automatic watering.

This is way originally have me the idea for a battery operated pump with a timer. It gets so many mixed reviews about quality that I'm hesitant to try it.

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.NyBDb95WRT4W

It is time you need to control, not how many gallons of water come out of the sprinkler heads. Your greenery will dictate how many gallons per week you need to keep everything looking good. Investing in a system that can adjust to your weather will pay off after a few seasons:

https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-8-Zone/dp/B07CZ864Y9

Fish tank pump on a smart plug?

I use one of these for my normal watering without the auto function.


DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ky3BCb9APHBAN

But unfortunately at the max setting it only does 1/2gal per time interval and only equal time intervals. It works well with autos in small pots and just to keep plants from totally drying out if I go out of town.

I got this for last vacation and it worked very well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P9ZH7PQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

good effort, but don't get that one, get this one. it's cheaper, by the same company, and the probe is designed for aquariums:


https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+Digital+Temperature+Controller+Thermostat&qid=1554760604&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3-catcorr

The blumats have a 30gal resevoir with a pH controller. This has basically cut my weekly work in half. I just top off the res every couple weeks.

That's a 3x3 tray, so that leaves 6 inches on all sides for some pavers to hold up those shelves. I use a transfer pump and wand to feed from 5gal buckets and then pump the runoff out of the tray back into a bucket for reuse outside for my strawberries.

Edit: Here's what it looks like from above

Yeah, I suppose that would work. All you would need then is just a single stage temp controller such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5149652

I used this when I was out of town for a week, worked well :

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Programmable Water Timer and 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants or Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 3] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5g1KBb3B2ZMHR

it's better (and cheaper) if you can avoid those emitters though because they are not very reliable either... They get clogged up all the time for me. (talking about this: https://www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-SW10-30PS-Irrigation-Watering/dp/B0049C76S4)

I got mine off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQXFBWA/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w

You could get a programmable timer that attaches to a faucet, and pick up some irrigation tubing at your local hardware store - they have all sorts of nozzles / sprayers / drippers that could be set up to auto-water your outdoor plants.

If you're in an apartment (with no faucet access) another alternative could be to get one of the pump systems that attaches to a bucket. I'm not sure if it would be strong enough to mist/spray, but perhaps just some dripping water in the right place would be enough?

This is the system you want https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Automatic-Watering-Sensors-Starter/dp/B00IQXFBWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541090568&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=blumat&dpPl=1&dpID=41dHaopxgeL&ref=plSrch

This Automatic watering thing might work...

DIY Micro Automatic Drip Irrigation Kit,Houseplants Self Watering System with 30-Day Digital Programmable Water Timer 5V USB Power Operation for Indoor Potted Plants Vacation Plant Watering [Gen 4] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0743F4532/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.y8BDb92BV4CB

You need a thermostat. Place the probe between the map and the bottom of the tank. All below the tank. Inexpensive thermostats:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/

You need this!

https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Medium-Box-Kit-Irrigation/dp/B00IQXFBWA?th=1

Or go to any hydro / garden store, blumat or drip irrigation

In practice your plants can probably dry out if it's about a week. Two weeks and they might not come back.

I am using one of these personally with a pair of Eheim heaters:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-100-240V/dp/B015FKG4CC/

If you don't have too many you can use an automatic pump. https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=automatic+plant+water+pump&qid=1555690261&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I would offer to water them but I'm a total stranger and I just moved the only car I had in Cincinnati to Granby Colorado, I won't have a ride for a week or two. I'd just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Yardeen-Automatic-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Controller/dp/B01J9FXCS8

I'm stoned so I decided to price out a DIY recirculating drip [single unit] for you with links!

• Waterfarm Plumbing Kit (amazon) - $12.28
  
  
• 10" net pot lid (amazon) - $8.54
  
  
• 5 Gallon Bucket (amazon) - $11.04
  
  
  $31.86 for a DIY recirculating drip bucket
  
  If you don't have an Air Pump you're looking at $38.86.

Fountain pump with 1/2 out
1/2 inch tubing from pump to drip
Drip irrigation distributor http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004S26U
1/4 feed lines to your plants
Done

Run it manually or on a timer.

Haven't grown my koji yet because I'm on vacation, but here's what I purchased and it all works:

​

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ND7N8L/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Perforated pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E95D6H0/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o02\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Pan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VZ6Y4O/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Humidistat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Thermostat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FKG4CC/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Heating pad (I fold it in half): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7U259C/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Styrofoam container: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NO6F8E/ref=oh\_aui\_detailpage\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This setup has a solenoid that can be connected to a timer, here are the links.


Tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XKFQCM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KVG6PI8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adapter for tank to reg: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bubble counter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2M2B6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone commented this in another post.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P9ZH7PQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1

Not sure if this is too small or simple for you but I just installed this in my covered raised flowerbed. I just ran the line across the roof and attached the little orange pieces (misters) every few feet or so, works fantastic.

KORAM IR-D 50 Feet Blank Distribution Tubing Hose Plant Watering Irrigation Drip Kit Accessories Include Atomizing Nozzle Mister Dripper, 1/4-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JPIJG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MmLVAbYWQWHWD

No need to drill anything, you can get a 1/4 inch drip irrigation set from amazon for like $25. comes with the atomizers & drip heads and splitters and all.

Example... not hocking the product.. just the first one that came-up on the search.

https://www.amazon.com/Koram-Distribution-Irrigation-Accessories-IR-D/dp/B013JPIJG4/

I believe there is also a spongy slow drip type tube/hose out there as well I just cant remember the name of it. "Worst case" you poke some holes in some 1/4 inch vinyl tubing using a needle to get the same effect.

This is a very common mistake, but it can have very deadly consequences if not changed.

Get a [thermostat](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/ref=asc_df_B015FKG4CC5396573/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B015FKG4CC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198107334619&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14493505548356397280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018821&hvtargid=pla-326308171578 (I linked the one I have, it's not too expensive and it works great) as soon as possible, otherwise you risk burning your snake very badly, and the vet bills caused by that would be much more expensive than the thermostat, not to mention the emotional distress.