Reddit mentions: The best automotive air conditioning products

We found 144 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive air conditioning products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 88 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. TYC 700247 Compatible with HONDA Fit Replacement Blower Assembly

TYC 700247 BLOWER ASSEMBLY (700247)
TYC 700247 Compatible with HONDA Fit Replacement Blower Assembly
Specs:
Height0 Inches
Length0 Inches
Weight3.02 Pounds
Width0 Inches
Release dateNovember 2013
Number of items1
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🎓 Reddit experts on automotive air conditioning products

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive air conditioning products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Air Conditioning Products:

u/Ularsing · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

Awesome!

As a pro-tip, some people complain that the lowest setting on the HMW is still too intense for them. There are two common methods of dealing with this.

The first is simply to drape a washcloth over your clitoris to act as a mechanical damper. You'd likely want to use something soft, fairly thick, and I'd recommend wetting it with warm water, which will both make it a more efficient mechanical damper and serve to relax the muscles surrounding your pubic area.

The second is to use a voltage controller, commonly a fan-speed controller like this one, to vary the voltage reaching the HMW. While some users have advocated this method, I've looked into the theory along with other users, and it was inconclusive whether the motor used in the HMW can be safely or effectively regulated through voltage modulation. Be aware that if you attempt this, you definitely run the risk of potentially burning out the motor of your HMW, and if left unattended, it could even potentially cause a fire.

If you want to be particularly adventuresome, there are also a number of aftermarket (third-party) heads that are sold as attachments for the HMW. Certainly worth looking into if you think you might be the kind of girl that prefers vaginal stimulation to clitoral stimulation.

Best of luck to you!

Ninja-Edit: Definitely thought I was posting this to /r/sex based on the subject matter. If you have any questions, success stories, etc., I would highly recommend posting them over there. It's an absolutely amazing, knowledgeable, supportive, and accepting community where you can seek advice or merely share in the knowledge that there are lots of people in the same boat as you. Following that sub changed my sex life, and arguably my life as a whole.

u/word_up_yo · 2 pointsr/Dodge

Fellow Texan here. Get some suction cups from Amazon and use those to secure the plate to your windshield, where it's clearly visible (about 4 inches up from dash so it's at least above the wiper blades)

I had a long chat with a cop once when I got pulled over for speeding (I had his attention so I made good use of the time, he was really friendly). Technically, the Supreme Court hasn't ruled on what constitutes the "front" of the vehicle. So for the time being, they can't ticket you for not having a plate on the front bumper. As long as the plate is clearly visible from in front of the vehicle, your good.

I've had my plate cupped to the windshield for over two yeas now and have been stopped multiple times for speeding (I know, I never learn) but have never once had my front plates placement in the windshield be an issue. Suction cup it in the windshield where it's clearly visible and you'll be totally cool.

Here's what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410485443&sr=8-1&keywords=License+plate+suction+cups

They fit perfectly through the holes in the plate and they have really strong suction, your plate definitely won't fall off or move at all.

Go to the hardware section in Lowes, there will be an Automotive subsection, buy some black push-pins. I went with the Nissan push-pins, they have one bigass hook and once it's in there it's secure as fuck. The Chrysler push-pins work as well, they've got about a dozen little splines on them which hold it pretty securely. Use those to fill the holes left by the license plate frame.

All-in-all, you'll be looking really good for less then $10.

u/patbak13 · 2 pointsr/BMWE36

I am not an A/C system master, but have read up on them a little when I was shopping for an E30 without A/C...

First of all, your E36 uses R12 refrigerant (pg 640-11 from the Bentley manual), but this unnecessary information. Before anything, take your car to an A/C shop and have them flush your system completely, this should be free because they can resell the refrigerant (If not pay you for it). Then do a leak test with a can of dyed r134a using a conversion kit fromyour local autozone/advanced auto/oreilys/etc. Something like this below.

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-320-Retrofit-Kit/dp/B001AIZLQY

And then most people recommend replacing the expansion valve as well.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ILOF2/ref=asc_df_B0019ILOF24310609?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=shopzilla0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_rev_121-20;14643263694201161168710070301008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B0019ILOF2

Not sure on the accuracy of this information! But good luck! I got lucky with my E36 being R134a!

u/ottrocity · 2 pointsr/cars

As someone who lived in Ohio for a few years and doesn't like that ugly license plate on the front of the car, try some of these. I got the OK from a cop for having my front plate mounted visibly at the top of my windshield, but I was up in Chardon so who knows. Great looking car!

Ed: had a few guys chime in to say they've been pulled over for having the front plate in the windshield. Best solution I have is to move to a state that respects cars.

u/Absentee23 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

u/Dapper_d0m · 2 pointsr/squarebodies

Sorry for the format I'm on mobile.

These are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWQDYZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oO92Cb8CQYP4Y apparently work great for situations like yours dealing with seemingly impossible bolts to unfasten. Best of luck hopefully you dont have to break out the big guns haha.

u/sketticat · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I'll find some pics for reference. There are two coolant hoses running up the floor to the heater core--one bringing fluid into the core, and one return line. The core wires can be unplugged and then unbolted from the floor.

Basically there's two ways to bypass it. You can unclamp the hoses from below and fashion some type of u-shape tube to so it simply returns to the rest of the cooling system. I found some premade u tube, but the hoses into the heater core are actually slightly different sizes.

Another way is to bypass it further upstream, where there is a heater valve. With rear heat it has 6 places to plug in tubes. The version for non-rear heat has only 4 tubes, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9DDN0/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I15VEQASFOWQ4V&colid=2EMFY9IJP51LI .

I didnt want to mess with that though. Be sure the engine is cool, and probably drain the coolant first. I thought i could quickly unclamp and put in the U piece in and got pretty soaked with coolant. Check the astrosafari forum for better details than i could give.

u/KayleeOnTheInside · 3 pointsr/ChevyAvalanche

The manual I have is just junk, but I did a quick search online and the actuator is pretty darn easy to replace. This video is pretty straightforward. The part runs about twenty bucks and I believe the only tools you'll need are a ratchet, short extension, and 7mm socket. This actuator has pretty good reviews.

It could be worse. You could have a leaking a/c evaporator. That was what I've been dealing with the last two weekends. A black Avy with dark pewter leather is just not okay without a/c.

u/schadwick · 5 pointsr/Porsche

Beautiful car, and great photos!

Clear side markers are available here, and install in minutes.

Also, if you need to temporarily attach a front license plate when parking (e.g. street parking in VA cities), these work well.

Enjoy your new ride, and I hope the break-in period goes quickly!

u/mattybfraps · 2 pointsr/4Runner

Any double din should will work. Check out Crutchfield, they’ll be able to recommend a new head unit based on what you’re looking for, as well as harnesses and mounting kits needed for whatever head unit you choose. Personally I prefer this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ADOPEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oN9YzbVW6MBE8
Crutchfield doesn’t offer it I don’t think, but from the ones I’ve seen installed it looks the best (other than the Urban Runner trim, but good luck finding that one).

u/BillfredL · 3 pointsr/FRC

I'm not Big Al, but here's my two cents.

  • Every team should have a Battery Beak. I think the first one any of my teams bought was in 2815 in 2013, then I showed it to 1293 who historically stayed past the peak of the adoption curve for financial reasons. They went out and bought one, it's that good at preventing bad batteries from going out and that easy to use.
  • Inspect your battery. Dents? It's shot. Inside these batteries are glass plates that divide each cell. When the glass breaks, it loses voltage. When the glass breaks only a little, it will lose voltage when it heats up (say, when a robot is drawing 100A from it). Which means it fails on the field.
  • Did you ever see someone lift it by the cables? It's shot. There's no strain relief on those metal tabs, just a straight connection to those glass plates.
  • For deeper testing, lots of people like the CBA IV for load testing batteries down to a certain voltage since it'll keep a constant load. You could do a poor-man's version with a car heater or two and watching the driver station logs. (200W is 16A, or about six CIMs spinning at free speed with nothing attached. You want a good solid discharge for this, so the battery chemistry will warm up. Two heaters would absolutely do the trick.) Any sudden voltage drops indicate bad cells, and it should be recycled.
  • For most teams, you're only going to get 1-2 good seasons out of a battery before it needs to be demoted to practice and demo duty. Be sure to mark when a battery first goes into service.
u/TedLogan · 15 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Newer cars are pretty good at starting still, just make sure you have a good battery. Also, if it does get that cold, people will kick on their auto start or start it manually every few hours for 30+ minutes to keep it warm. Or these are also pretty common (used to be much more so). You plug them in when you park the car and it keeps the engine warm.

u/mattstryfe · 2 pointsr/S2000

I've redone the entire AC system myself after my compressor 'ate itself alive'. The proper way, is to replace everything. The reason for this is because of what you eluded too; the metal shavings. I opted to replace every single line (high and low), the compressor, and the expansion valve.

Once you have all new components you need to add the oil. The amount you add is dependent on how much is in the compressor (or the whole system). There are a few guides on this and HELMS manual has a calculation you must do. For sanity's sake, if you're close, you'll probably be alright. However, full disclosure, I am no HVAC expert.

  • You can use a compressor if you have one but you'll definitely have to remove every single component to ensure you get every single nook.
  • It might be. Remove it from the firewall and take a look. They're pretty cheap if you have to pick one up. I bought this one and it's been running fine for years.
  • No. Aside from a new serp belt if it's showing signs of wear.
  • You're right. Having this done by a shop is the only right way. They need to evacuate your entire system once you have it all sealed up. Then put new freon(whatever it is nowadays) into it. Then charge it to the proper PSI. (as i understand it).

    You can do ALL of the work yourself save for the charging/recharging/evacing.
u/TerribleHerbst · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

I've used a super ambi lowel kit for years (as a mobile shooter) and they are great lights, if you know how to use them. I shot 4 spots for a major tech company last week and used my 6 light kit to great effect. You can get some gel frames for these lights and use basic diffusion instead of the umbrellas. Grab a couple of these and use them as dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394512495&sr=8-2&keywords=router+control

u/stapleton87 · 1 pointr/FiestaST

I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.

The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!

Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B

u/borderwave2 · 5 pointsr/cars

> That fix is about 1 hour of labor, can save you from a much bigger compressor replacement bill, and keep your A/C running nicely for quite a bit longer.

Ehh, it's not tremendously more expensive to just replace the whole thing actually. I agree doing just the AC compressor clutch can save you some money and time.

u/ImperialAgent · 1 pointr/scion

Here's one I found on Amazon for you AC Compressor

Also look up pep boys or whatever other auto parts stores are near you and use those part numbers in Amazon to find equal ones. I got my AC compressor for under $300 with buying through Amazon. GOOD LUCK!

u/mutatedferret · 1 pointr/personalfinance

i have an 03 with 139k. absolutely repair it. also there is no way it should cost that much to have it repaired. maybe at the STEALERship, but at a normal mechanic? few hundred + parts.

this compressor should fit your car. i used one in my subaru and it was just as good as OEM.

i checked alldata. looks to be around a 3-4 hour job. so you are looking at around 240 for parts and 280 for labor. thats a good 150+ less than what you were quoted.

u/sgtfine · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

The best starting place is to get your compressors model number, mine is a sanden compressor and this is what the model number should look like on the label: https://i.imgur.com/T6bfZuF.jpg

​

It is the 1K0820859Q line, that will ensure you get the correct RCV, here is the one I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC6GZSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

In the product description it lists the compatible models of compressors for this one.

u/Sophias_dad · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You probably could do so easily...

https://youtu.be/vyDNLd9o-20 shows you where it is and what it looks like.

It seems that the actuator itself is only $25-40. By the time you get in and change the blend door position, you might as well fix it right and button it up. You'd have to remove the old actuator to move the blend door.

https://smile.amazon.com/APDTY-Temperature-2001-2006-97159-2D000-971592D000/dp/B00CMXS8MK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=2006+hyundai+blend+door+actuator&qid=1572653295&sr=8-5

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-door-Actuator-fits-97159-2D000-fits-Hyundai-Elantra-604-303/153030410302

But be aware, it looks like there are two actuators on that HVAC unit, you can see the other one is mounted higher up on that same side. The upper one is used to select vent/heat/defrost, the lower one is temperature.

If you do the repair, make sure that you fit the pin in the actuator into the appropriate place on the actuated thing during installation. Move the temperature dial or the blend door position to make it fit.

u/treesmightbenice · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Get one of these - they are cheap and totally worth it.

I had a TD-100 (100 CFM) that wasn't powerful enough to really pull through my 200 CFM-rated Phresh carbon can.

Also, the TD-100, even on high setting, would barely turn on unless the fan speed controller was dialed almost to maximum speed.

I replaced the TD-100 with a TD-150 (300 CFM, 6", big brother). That thing works GREAT with the speed control.

I suspect your TD-125 will be fine with the speed control, esp. if you rewire it to the faster setting internally.

Worth the $20 or so, hands down.

u/johnnychronicseed · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I used the same filter with the cheap Ventech fan and it worked great.

My guess would be you arent creating negative pressure in the tent or the can-fan needs to be turned down with a speed controller to allow more air contact with the filter.

u/ClevelandSteamer81 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Cruiser Accessories 78410 Suction Cups, Clear, 4 pack – approx. 1” each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vG3Hzb2CWADSZ


They fit perfectly in the Model S front plate plastic holder, not sure if it works on other cars.

u/rtype_eman · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

i have a 92 ranger that was in the same situation, its unlikely the refrigerant was stolen, most likely leaked out as these systems are nearly 30 years old

i was able to purchase a vacuum pump, gauge set and can tap on ebay pretty cheap.

i replaced the compressor, dryer, orifice tube and ALL of the o-rings in the system. If I were to do this again, I would also purchase something like this https://www.amazon.com/AirSept-91025-Ford-Filter-Plate/dp/B07NHPWBTT

Pulled a vacuum for an hour and then fed in the new refrigerant until the system was full to the calculated amount.

I did not use R12 or R134a, but used http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_refintro.html In the united states I believe you can buy r134a over the counter, probably a better choice.

All in, this cost me about $400 canadian and I have had it working for 2 years now.

u/mossyboy6 · 2 pointsr/mechanics

Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.

Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.

Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)

But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.

If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.

Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:

Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)

Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)

Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)

As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.

Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.

u/RetireNickSaban · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

They make oil block heaters that are big stickers that attach to the oil pan with a plug that you can run out the front of the vehicle so you can plug it in. A friend of mine did that with his and had no issues. He may have attached an additional one to his transmission pan as well. I would suggest looking on Amazon, but it may be better to look locally with Amazon shipping being what it is to Alaska. Here is an example for what I was talking about, it looks like they have some that screw into the block somewhere so that may be an option as well.

u/BipedalCoffeeFilter · 1 pointr/hondafit

Had the same problem this spring. Did some digging and there are tons of other Fit owners with the same problem that almost universally cited the blower motor and/or blower motor resistor. Dealership quoted me $450 for the repair ($250 parts, $200 labor). Ended up replacing both myself for about $65. The whole process took about 15 minutes.

It is not a remotely complicated repair, but both parts are located in an awkward place if you aren't a tiny person. They're both accessed by removing the tiny panel under the glove box or the box itself. Only ONE tool is required, which is a Philips head screwdriver, but I'd recommend using one with a very short handle to get at the resistor's screws (mine was about 2.5-3" long).

Blower Motor on Amazon

Resistor on Amazon

Was very glad to get my AC back in time for summer without dumping an unnecessary $390!

u/uselessjd · 2 pointsr/roasting

Looks good. I ordered the same, went for the Phidget and a controller.

Only thing I wish I had done was loctite all the screws the FIRST time I did them instead of adding loctite piecemeal now.

u/Jvepps1 · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Make sure you get the Dorman brand ones or you will be replacing them again. This is a stronger part that fixed the issues with the OE ones. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

u/spline9 · 1 pointr/hondafit

You're, correct that this isn't related to the A/C. It's just the cabin air system and it's an easy repair. It's mounted under the dash (passenger side). The only difficult part is that its slightly awkward to reach. If you push the seat as far back as it goes and lay on your back (half your body out of the car), it makes it easier to do. Should take about 10-15 mins to do. 5 mins if you've done it before.

/u/civicjohn is also correct. Here is the part you need:
amazon link. The highest speed is a direct passthrough with no resistance. The resistor reduces the power for speeds 1-3 (more resistance/less power for lower speeds). When the built-in fuse in the resistor trips, the fan will only run on the high setting.

If this doesn't work, or the resistor fails again or the air seems to blow weakly, then its the blower motor: amazon link. If the air is weak, then the bearings in the blower motor are bad. This could explain why the resistor blew. Unfortunately the bearings in the blower motor are not serviceable so the blower motor would need to be replaced. The good news is replacing this is just as easy as replacing resistor. Same area, 3 screws.

The resistor is about $20-$25 and the fan motor (aftermarket) is about $55 from Amazon. A Genuine Honda fan motor is really expensive. Something like $450 or in that neighborhood if I'm remembering correctly. If you insist on Genuine Honda factory parts, it's worth checking a junkyard if you have one nearby. BTW, a really short screwdriver is really handy.

Probably more info than you need but if you're like me, I like to know how things work and why they fail. It may also make the repair less daunting for those who may be a little timid about tinkering with their car. Hope this helps.

.

^
the ^blower ^motors ^are ^known ^to ^be ^somewhat ^troublesome.

u/AeroWrench · 3 pointsr/Volkswagen

Check out Kat's. They sell several different types of oil and block heaters, including a magnetic one that you just pop onto your oil pan. I've read about people using them on air-cooled cars with good results. Kudos to you for driving a Ghia through the winter!

Edit: They also have glue-on pads like this, which are basically the same type of heaters we use on the aircraft engines I build.

u/The_Mutist · 1 pointr/cars

I bought suction cups for my license plate so it's suctioned to my front windshield. I got rear ended not too long ago and it didn't move at all. Just my $0.02

Edit: These. They cost $2 and they work really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1/138-0897253-5765706?ie=UTF8&qid=1495958756&sr=8-1&keywords=suction+cup+for+license+plate

u/distantlistener · 1 pointr/Cartalk

My old-battery car takes some finger-crossing to start at -10, and is practically un-startable at -20... unless I have had my oil pan heater on for about 2 to 4 hours. Otherwise, the oil's just too thick to let the engine turn over effectively.

u/ImJustHereForTheCats · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I have 1600W in an 8x4 tent cooled with a single 440 CFM inline fan - so yes, it should be quite sufficient for a single 600W. You may want to also get the suggested router speed controller, since 440 CFM may be overkill on full power.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/

They sell the same controller at Harbor Freight for $20.

u/jshored0001 · 1 pointr/HVAC

Car Heater,CHELIYA Portable 12V 200W 2 in 1 Auto Car Heater Cooling Fan Defroster Defrost Windscreen Window Demister https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J26MSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_54sMDb94258DW

u/Padta · 2 pointsr/BMWE36

No, I just used the regular housing gasket.

Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.

u/taxcheat · 0 pointsr/Audi

Agreed. Audis look stupid with front plates -- haven't used one for 10 years. But you can't park on the street in DC without a meter maid waddling by and seeing an easy ticket. On the rare occasions I have to, this sticks my plate in the window.

u/twomonkeysayoyo · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Blend door actuator. Get it replaced under warranty and do it again later or buy the Dorman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

u/ZelWon · 2 pointsr/Challenger

I don’t own this beautiful car yet, but from what I gathered they are using this they suctioned it to the windshield, don’t think it would scratch anything.

u/GavinET · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Is this the part you had replaced? Because that's a higher quality one, not just a generic one, and it's still only <$50. Or did you get a different part replaced?

u/xqze6m6ogWo · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I put suction cups on a plate holder. I pull this out only when using metered parking (which is fortunately only a few times a month).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00032KBEA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV5PLFM

u/DevanteWeary · 1 pointr/ft86

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV5PLFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

in the corner of my windshield. Might be an alternative for you.

I'm in California by the way.

u/The_NOT-A-BOT_Bot · 2 pointsr/camaro

Get a hide away plate frame that attaches to your under belly

http://www.pfyc.com/GN1046.html

or these little suction cups (this is what I use) to attach the plate to the inside of you windshield.

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

as it turns out, the intake and exhaust housing funnel lots and lots of air into and around the motor. would this compensate for heat buildup?


i found this on amazon but i'm not sure if it's what you were talking about. is it considered a variable frequency drive?

u/______well_fuck__ · 2 pointsr/Audi

They make [suction cups for the front window] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UkqGAbB4P6RE4), if that's your worry.