Reddit mentions: The best automotive air filters & accessories

Well I will post them but if you look it up on amazon you can put your make and model in to see if they’re compatible on the page you make the purchase on. Again I know it’s for the vq35 and vq37 engine. If your vehicle is compatible you will need to purchase 2 as they only ship in singles.

I’m assuming m35 signifies the vq35 motor for your vehicle? Should be good to go with that. They went in like a dream and I’m really enjoying the increased throttle response.

K&N 33-2399

Let me know if it works for you and if you end up getting them I want an update on if you notice performance increase! Lol good luck

EDIT: oops, here’s the direct link
K&N filter

1. How do you know you have spark? Just curious. Try dribbling some gas onto the air filter or into the carb throat, if it fires then you have spark. It sounds as if you DO have spark, but it's good to verify.
   
   
2. From gently seated, how many turns out is the idle mixture screw?
   
   
3. Can you run a compression test? A compression tester from Harbor Freight is pretty affordable, and a good thing to have around anyhow. If the bike ran recently, it's probably not this but it can't hurt to check. Also, it's good to do every so often and keep a record of the compression declining with use, it can help you know when to do the piston/rings/hone.
   
   
4. I think your actual issue is fuel not getting through the carb. If it was heavily varnished, the carb cleanup might not have gotten everything out of it. After some running, it is possible some crap moved downstream and clogged a passage that was recently cleaned...it happens.
   
   If it's any consolation, my first real carb cleaning was with a Yamaha Maxim 550 (four carbs) that sat with fuel in them for 11 years. I took those damn things off and cleaned them 14 times (I was learning), which meant that every time they went back on, they had to be tuned and synced. /rant
   
   It appears from photos of your bike that you can loosen the carb boot clamps and simply rotate it 90deg. without taking it off of the bikes. Pull the slide out first, of course. Doing that should allow you to have the float bowl face you, and give direct access to the jets for at least a cursory look. If it's really bad, then take the carb off and clean it again.
   
   Edit to add: if you have lots of time and don't feel like spending much effort, drain the gas tank and float bowl, then refill with 1/2 a can of carb cleaner (I recommend Seafoam or Berryman's B-12 Chemtool). Let that marinate for a couple of days, then add some gas or premix (whatever you run) and try to start it. That might be enough to at least loosen things up.
   
   Also: are you running a fuel filter? I like these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Slimline-Compact-Body-Filter/dp/B003CJ95V6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-2&keywords=visu+filter
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Visu-Filter-Large-Capacity-Filter-8423-01-9909/dp/B00SJWGHJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501077672&sr=8-1&keywords=visu+filter

Yeah, sorry about it being a bit different. GM has a tendency to do things wildly different for no apparent reason sometimes.

I really couldn't find a decent picture or description anywhere.
Even this AutoZone image was just, 'here's all the parts': http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/job-info/en/US/07004001.jpg/1.image

There's no quick fix for removing solids from the ducting, but for smells try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Clean-Air-Kit/dp/B000IMB4CI
That particular brand is supposed to work really well. I know we sold stuff like that at the parts store I worked at. Something like it should be fairly easy to come across.

I'm glad you got it taken care of. I'll be looking forward to the aftermath. I wish you a pile of karma.

Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!

Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.


Fluids

• The 4.0 seems to love Shell Rotella 10W30 - either T (Conventional) or T6 (synthetic) its up to you and use a quality filter - Wix, NAPA Gold, Mopar, or Motorcraft FL-1A
  
• Drop transmission pan and change fluid and filter - ATF +4 only No additives or anything else. Adjust the bands and TV cable (link below for TV adj.)
  
• Drain and fill the transfer case - Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) and Command-Trac (NP231) get ATF +4 also. Quardra-drive (NP249) gets a special Mopar fluid
  
• Drain and fill both differentials - if you tow 75W140 full synthetic in rear 75W90 in front, otherwise 75W90 in both
  
• Drain and fill coolant. Zerex-G05 is now the OEM coolant, but you'll be fine with the old school green fluid. Also a good time to look over the condition of the rest of your cooling system. If you're running below 210 you're going to want to put a 195 thermostat in - running to cold causes tons of problems
  
• Siphon out your power steering fluid - either through the high pressure hose, or with a turkey baister. Use only Chrysler approved fluid not ATF. You'll need to burp the system after by turning your wheels lock to lock several times and topping of the fluid
  
• Bleed your brakes! These brake lines are prone to rust already, and brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and they will rust from the inside out. spray the bleeder screws with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a few days before you get started to free them up - Check your pads, shoes, drums, and rotors too!
  
  
  Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0
  
  
• Champion copper spark plugs
  
  
  
• Denso wires
  
  
  
• Accel distributor cap with brass contacts
  
  
  
• Accel Brass rotor
  
  
  
• Accel Ignition coil
  
  
  
• Bosch air filter any paper filter is fine though
  
  
  
• gates belt
  
  
  
• Clean the throttle body and IAC
  
  
  
• Adjust the Transmission Throttle Valve Makes a big differnce in shifting
  
  
  
• Clean the Grounds - #1 in the "Dirty Dozen" list below
  
  
  
  If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen
  
  Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
  

In order to actually clean the filter/cone, I recommend using something like the K&N filter recharge kit:

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jJOQAb7BZ4K73

Step 1: loosen the cone clamp and remove the cone/filter. You can use a hose to pre-clean as much of the gunk and debris as possible.

Note: you won’t really need to cover the exposed intake tubing, because your engine isn’t running or sucking in any air. You can cover it with a plastic bag and rubber band (or shove a towel in there) for peace of mind if you’d like.

Step 2: use the K&N detergent spray on both sides of the filter. I think the directions say to let it sit for a minute to do its thing.

Step 3: Rinse both inside and outside of the filter very thoroughly.

Step 4: drying - shake out as much water as you can from the filter cone. You can safely use a hair dryer on a low heat setting on both the inside and outside of the filter to speed up drying.

Bonus Tip: you can also use some compressed or canned air (like electronic duster) to force the moisture out of the nooks and crannies of the cone.

Step 5: once it’s dry, oil the filter cone with the included oil spray. Don’t saturate the filter, there is such a thing as too much of the oil.

Step 6: re-install your nice clean filter cone and re-clamp your cone.

EDIT: some words. I’ve got the CTS on mine as well, so I made the steps more specific.

You probably won't need jacks or stands for changing oil. I do have to drive my right wheel up on a couple boards on my mazda 3, but my grand caravan and most previous vehicles I've owned I can just reach under as needed. If you want a jack though, I too am happy with my harbor freight 3 ton. This one is "low profile": http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/RAPID+PUMP+3+TON+LOW+PROFILE+HEAVY+DUTY+STEEL+FLOOR+JACK

Having a jack on hand is a good idea anyway, and you should probably be rotating tires when you change your oil anyway.

Some years of corolla use a special tool for filter removal, if yours has a cartridge filter you'll want something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/ABN-Cylinder-Corolla-15620-31060-15620-36020/dp/B00IZNZOYQ/ (just an example)

I can't give advice for the insurance portion other than just continuing to pester them about the supplement since it sounds like they are giving you the run around till you give up but I'm guessing the dealer can't get in touch with the adjuster just like you.

What likely happened is when the mold developed it got trapped in your vents and since the shop was only paid to clean the carpet, thats all they did. So what I would suggest is finding somewhere local that rents ozone machines and stick one in your car for a day or two. Here is one in Houston from a quick search. At my old job we had one for apartments that were flooded or smoked in and we used it in my friends car once after he had a pound of rotting meat under his seat for a week in the Texas summer (long story) and it got that smell out completely. Also, pick up one of these kits and use it, then replace your cabin air filter which should cost no more than $20 and is pretty easy to do. That should pretty much eliminate all the likely sources of the smell, at least enough to sell it. If the smell still lingers a little I would also put one of these in your car too and maybe stash it somewhere out of sight so if you do go to sell it, it won't be found during the inspection. Try their spray too, that stuff worked wonders and was always a life saver back in my high school pot smoking days.

Outisde of the BBK, you can do quite a bit. A 14t front sprocket will give you a bit more acceleration while reducing your top speed 6.667%. For me, it made 4th gear a little more usable.

You can also modify your airbox for really cheap, get a cool air intake kit(~$100), or just stick a cone air filter(K&N R-1100 ~$40) over the top of your throttle body and remove the entire airbox/snorkel.

Since they're pretty popular, you can also get slip-on mufflers for them. My full yosh system was ~$500 and my buddy did the FMF slip on for ~$300. I'm sure there are cheaper exhaust options out there.

They're just so easy to work on! I was not confident in working on bikes until a friend helped me install the 143 kit and since then I do most of the service on my other bikes too.

• A filter shouldn't void a warranty, and K&N even offers to fight warranty disputes with dealers who claim the filter did it
  
  (side note, not sure why everyone here says "GET A GREEN FILTER!" instead of the best known high flow filter ever - K&N)
  
  
• The top actually secures the filter in place. You can take it off, but I would check it once a week to be sure it didn't pop off the intake tube.
  
  
• a high flow filter is for increased air flow (easier/faster air intake) and not temp decreases
  
  To address ur other concerns:
  
  
• I have a snorkel and I have NEVER had water on the filter, but I also leave the airbox lid on (my 2013 has a ~1" gap between the hood and bumper that water likes to go through to the engine compartment)
  
  
• Oil coated air filters require you to wash and re-oil them every so often. The oil is what catches most of the dust. You can buy a cleaning kit or larger portions of the cleaner and oil. K&N says every 50K miles, but I do it once a year (20K-25K for me) It's a pretty easy process: Take filter out > spray from inside out with garden hose > coat in filter cleaner (special stuff) > repeat garden hose rinse > repeat cleaner > repeat rinse > rinse from outside at angle (not to push dirt into fabric) > pick off any stuck on bugs/grass > let air dry (8-10 hours) > evenly coat with oil (spray on is easiest) > let sit for 30 min > re-apply on any light spots > let sit for 30 min > check for light spots (re-apply and wait again if necessary) > install > done
  
  
  If you're that concerned, I'd go with K&N's filter (since it's closed ended) and leave the cover on, but I haven't heard of any reports of water getting into the filter otherwise

But my car does have a Hepa Filter.

Hepa is definitely the best, but the other filters are no slouches. Hepa filters trap up to 99.97% of pm 2.5 particles. But other filters will still trap something like 80-90% of them. So as long as you run the air in the car as closed, your air will still be purified, but it'll take a minute longer.

Relax, Elon, you still have the most badass car on the road and it cleans the air better than other cars, but all-in-all, other cars will only take an extra minute to clean the air in the car.

special stuff. here is the kit
http://www.amazon.com/99-5000-Aerosol-Recharger-Filter-Service/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333468088&sr=8-1
that one looks like it has the spray oil, which is better than my pour on oil (much faster and harder to over do). just follow the instructions shouldnt be a problem.
the MAF is easy to locate, do a little reading on cleaning it first, and proceed with caution if you do. they're usually pretty expensive to replace.

• You can adjust the brightness of the instruments and LCD display by turning one of the adjustment sticks (the right one) on the upper side of the instrument panel.
  
  
• You can change the width of the blind spot monitoring system.
  
  
• Enabling "Audio Pilot" turns on active noise cancelling.
  
  
• You can change how the automatic door lock mechanism works in the settings.
  
  
• You can turn on traffic camera warning in the navigation system settings.
  
  
• Turning on sport mode dramatically increases throttle response and holds gears at significantly higher RPM.
  
  
• A 3-minute super easy air filter change to the $50 K&N one can give you 1-2 better MPG and slightly better throttle response.
  

So it is actually a 3 part ordeal.

The actual fog lights since my car didn't come with them, and the stalk. Then I did some c-shaped drl since I have leds in my high beams and the factory drl doesn't work with leds, but then the c-shaped drl didn't work for a little bit so I bought the drl turn signals, and then the previous c-shaped ones started working again. I will just post all of my mods below:

Fog lamps with brackets : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL8DPWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Light stalk : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWO7XOK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

C-shaped DRL : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014P7LPEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sequential LED Turn signals with DRL : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/5veD22k

9005 LED High Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075J9S4DT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

H11 55W HID Low Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMKT2F4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 7443 LED Brake/Tail Light : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTKLF32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 LED Turn Signal (rear) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8RZRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED License plate/used as side markers in the front/a couple other places : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT23WVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED side marker bulbs (not used but the correct ones if you want yellow, I liked the white and it was what I had when the originals burnt out but didn't ever change them from the above link) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KY7GCXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

License plate smoke : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LICQ9M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Grille : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254096211721

K&N 33-2480 Air Filter : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR9WVPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VfS6CbNBD59AQ

I had my rims done by a local company, they are the factory 16" painted gloss black. My mazda emblem is actually a long story, but essentially it is just scuffed up with sand paper ready to be painted but I liked the look and stuck it back on the way it is. I have also installed car play, and 3D printed a shift knob. The factory bose system was a little lacking and put a small under seat sub in to help fill the sound, but am still not happy with it, so that's a future project.

Some near future plans for the car include the aero kit, and I'll post the links to those here too:

Front Bumper Lip Air Dam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTUE8EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bdS6Cb2X8Y22M

Black Mirror caps : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283050942561

Side skirts : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391544070112

And the rear diffuser : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113007041503

I mean, I guess "worth it" is subjective, but I also think you must be setting an unreasonably high bar. These are cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($35-40)
  
• replace the rear motor mount with part number CM5Z-6068-A from the electric Focus ($40-60)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
• do the grounding mod (free or a couple of bucks for a new bolt...it may not improve performance, but especially on a 2012 with the old bolts, you might be experiencing communication delays)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending $100. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune, though I don't think I'd suggest that for the average driver (whereas the other mods above are totally worth it, IMO).

An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.

Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.

Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).

The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.

Open ended oiled filter. Seen them in the $40 range on Amazon occasionally. Not much performance gain but the noise is good for miles of smiles.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+filter&qid=1555005232&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

I have the same car, put a green filter in it! Trust me, you'll love the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Plm0xb6E2613Z

Just FYI you can fit these filters on almost any car for less than 20 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

(And they are pretty common in cars of that price range anyways, it's just typically not being marketed as "bioweapon defence".)

I think DSG paddle replacement is worth it, especially the real ones (not the stick ons). Those racing lines look nice. I love my S2T Performance ones.

Drop in air filter and removal of the snow grate. SLIGHTLY more intake/turbo noises and for $60 you're getting roughly the same air flow "performance" as $300-$600 aftermarket intakes.

Tires. PS4S for Summer, RE71r for track/autocross, Alpin PA4 for winter.

Wheels 18" Konig Flow Form Wheels (i have the Rennform) are around 18lbs, which save a good bit of unsprung mass. I rock my Pretorias in the summer, and switch to my Konig's with the RE71r's for autocross/track.

I also just got the ECS subframe mount insert but haven't installed it yet.

​

Edit: And OBDEleven. Throttle Response Mod, Soundaktor to 0, windows up/down with remote

i got this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URDQ27A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

not sure if its hepa but it seemed like a good filter.

For completeness, here is what I'm testing now: https://imgur.com/a/WhLov

This cost about $25 from Autozone and included all the parts required to complete the setup you see above. It required no modification of the factory parts. Spectre 8131

It does not fit directly onto the throttle body but I think this may be a superior solution.

If you want the best replacement available, find the MANN Frecious Plus filter that fits your car. Been through the wildfire seasons here in CA and terrible general air quality in the Bay Area, and these filters are awesome.

The MK7 is Mann-Filter FP 26 009.

https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-FP-26-009-Filter/dp/B00URDQ27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489972547&sr=8-1&keywords=Mann-Filter+FP+26+009

The MK6 is FP2939

https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-FP-2939-FreciousPlus/dp/B00URDQ630/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=FP2939&qid=1562085004&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I use the Fram Fresh Breeze cabin air filter, has Fabreeze in it, made my car smell nice and fresh.

https://www.amazon.com/CF10709-Fresh-Breeze-Cabin-Filter/dp/B004IZWMD6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481085341&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=farm+fresh+breeze+cf10709

Like others have said it's very easy. Here's the filter I always use from Amazon for $13.50USD.

Got it here..

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425668660&sr=8-1&keywords=focus+st+green+filter

Came pretty quick, got it in 2-3 days. As far as performance goes, there isnt much of a difference. It sounds great though! Left the top of the air box off.

Ive been thinking of getting the rokblokz myself. Window tint is iffy for me, due to it being illegal. Got popped in my RSX for it.

AEM Dryflow (Gen 2 2.5L)
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-28-20293-Dryflow-Air-Filter/dp/B00B98TUDK/

K&N "High Performance" (Gen 2 2.5L)
https://www.amazon.com/33-2293-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B000CO9T60/

Yeah yeah, they say high performance. That's just marketing. The biggest difference will be the savings on replacements if you're doing more than two or three changes before selling the car. Make sure to get the one that matches your engine, I linked the 2.5L Gen 2 filters since that's what I own.

Surely! I have 6-gal plastic carboys. I currently have a carboy cap that has a racking cane and a filter on the other end. The end of my racking cane tubing is attached directly to a barbed disconnect on the liquid post. I still use gravity but I get the siphon going by blowing through the filtered end of the carboy cap. I actually am purchasing this today to replace the filter so I can use pure CO2 to push the beer from my carboy. Just know if you use CO2 to push the beer from the carboy to keg that you need to keep the pressure very low as the carboys are nor pressure retaining vessels.

I have to give credit where credit is due though. I built this after seeing /u/brulosopher 's kegging method

Cool thanks! I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542485078&sr=1-4&keywords=Bosch+hepa+cabin+air+filter
It seems that one should be able to filter the smoke

I'd recommend the AEM dry filter for its easy cleaning, unlike the Green and K&N that require oiling.

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i like it so far it adds a bit more induction noise and it looks like it keeps the oil cooler just by a little bit.

For sure.

Here’s a link to the filter


You’ll need a 3in pipe and some clamps for it to go on. The pipe can be found for like $5 usually right by the spectre filters in autozone.



Edit: here’s a link to the step by step that I followed when doing mine

purchased mine from Amazon because, free prime shipping.

So if the labor will be performed by someone else, the only thing I need is the oil to replace the existing oil and the oil filter correct?

if so,

Genuine Toyota - Prius Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5) - 04152-YZZA6

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9BPECFS0QV83TREH9

it says qty 5, how many do you use per oil change?

2010 Prius oil change
~4 quarts so

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96995-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000SKYL9I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414344172&sr=1-1&keywords=mobil+1+ow-20

or is there somewhere cheaper I can get same product?

Mobil 1 only please

you can get them on amazon. I got this one for my 2017 so i think it should fit a 2016 too.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2015 sedan 2.0 auto. Greater than 90% highway. 63 miles.

Edit:

link to product on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was approx 70 degrees today, i would expect it to be even higher in the summer.

Installing Racing beat axleback and a full set of Michelin CrossClimate + this weekend :)

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m.zEAbG27T0YA

My filter cost me 50 for my 2017 Ridgeline, the cleaning kits are 12, regular filters are around 30.

Pays off after the first cleaning kit, then you are saving 18 every cleaning after that.

aFe dry filter. I'm running this in my car right now.

Here's a CTS intake hose that I am planning on getting. You may also benefit from a turbo inlet upgrade.

Never spray peroxide on the cakes and always let it sit for 24 hours before you add cakes to the environment it takes 48hours before it converts to just water.

I've never had any issue soaking with a little peroxide but the key is to let it sit for the 24 hours and don't wait longer or the peroxide is all gone and it was near pointless to add it.

It's almost the exact same one from Midwest I just find two tubs at Walmart the outer/bottom one is filled with enough water to cover the heater with 2 inches extra. The top/inner tub is where the cakes go. I have two setups one for incubation and one for fruiting. The only difference is the fruiting one has a hair hose and perlite base. This is the filter for the air, it let's you see if it's clogged or needs to be changed.

Hepa Sanitary Air Filter (In-line) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QXRD3NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qn7OCbXZAZYPV

The fuzz is just mycelium growing at the base I never worry about that.

Do yourself a favor and get one of these cabin filters. I had some smell issues with my Mk7.5 and this got rid of them completely. Could hardly believe the difference it made.

Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

Took me less than 5 minutes to switch out myself. I recommend this Mann-Filter FP 26 009 FreciousPlus Cabin Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URDQ27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yBv7Cb4TVSP6N

Some models have them available, like this one. You'd have to find one that fits your car.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

04152-YZZA6
Amazon sells five packs. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI

Also, if you haven't done it yet, you'll want the ASSTOY 640 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MXQBK1ZKTZSDZ4407XX

This is a common choice.

Seems to be one of the first mods a lot of owners do.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4

You mean this? It was replaced a year ago and has not been cleaned.

2nd this...Got mine from Amazon and it's a decent change over the stock one. You can actually hear it "hiss" once you remove the "grate" in the airbox.

Here you go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

everything from a 96 Chevy Tahoe to a 2010 WRX
Napa Auto Parts in the US sells K&N filters usually double the cost of a standard filter, and cleaning kits are less than the price of a new standard filter. Amazon has them for even cheaper

Here's also a list of the mods, how much, and where I got them.


Visual

Black rims $192.25x4 = $769
Window tint $180
Spoiler $100
Side Stripes $30

Tail light blackout $20

Sidemarker $15

Rear Decal: $50

345/Hemi Emblems black $34

Plasti-dip for Decals $6.00

Rock Guard $60

Engine

Air Filter+Recharge $63

Oil Catch Can $150

Other

Tazer+Bypass $300
Atturo Az850 275/40R20 $127.55x4 = $510

Mid-Muffler Delete $163

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487785406&sr=8-1&keywords=green+filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this will work since I'm on mobile

Not really - I quite like the car 'as is'. The only thing I've done is add a weighted shift knob and some goofy decals.

EDIT: Also a Green Filter for more turbo noise in the cabin.

Green Filter 7159 Green High Performance Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IaEszbMN7H88X

Resonator is part of the exhaust system, $50 From my local muffler shop to remove it and put a straight thru . Gives the exhaust a little character without being loud

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365341&sr=8-3&keywords=green+filter

Seriously took 10 minutes to install!

The sound is...visceral, a growl and rumble, you can hear the engine suck in air with a whistle even.