Reddit mentions: The best automotive battery jumper cables

We found 44 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive battery jumper cables. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 28 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Battery Jumper Cables:

u/matdwyer · 3 pointsr/toronto

My last reply and I'll drop it, but for reference today I need to buy 2 booster cables to hook up my marine battery to my inverter for my backyard solar.

$28 at walmart
$29 at canadian tire
$25 at Amazon + free same day delivery

I'd actually be excited if you could point me to a place that I can consistently save money on - as I told you, I have nearly 7,000 posts on RFD over 10 years and used to obsessively hunt down & get the "super deals", it actually helped me to create a business focused on being the lowest in Canada, respecting peoples $ and using that as our value ad (which has lead to lots of success with consumers, and industry credibility for corporates & gov't contracts)

If you want to get technical we can add in my ebates % back too, I am also an amazon associate for affiliate sales, but I only really use that when I'm referring people at work to buy tech purchases (like hard drives or streaming units)

You're not talking to a blind fan boy here, I'll put my experiences with this up against anyone - I do the research. I obsess over shit like this, thats WHY i am passionate about prime driving shit to me, because it IS a huge value.

u/InductorMan · 3 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

What're you asking now? Are you saying that the terminal posts you're connecting the clamps to are corroded? I mean that's not good, it can result in high resistance. But the clamps usually have such high force that if you're clamping them onto any normal terminal post and you give the clamp a good wiggle so the teeth can bite through any crud, you ought to be able to get definitely sub-milliohm connection. You out to be able to get say <100uOhm (0.0001) if you have solid, high quality clamps that have a continuous copper/brass conduction path all the way from the cable to the jaws with no steel in the way.

Also there's a tendency for high resistance connections in really high amperage circuits to "fix themselves". If you have more than about 0.5 V of drop across a connection, the tips of the contacts start to melt, and that'll usually allow the contact to bed together better, and conduct better. That's from Slade's textbook on contacts by the way.

With jumper cables it's really going to be more about the wire gauge, provided that you have good clamps and you wiggle them a little. They sell absolute shit jumper cables if you don't know what you're buying. I mean look at this crap. 8 gauge? 12 feet? Are you kidding? 8 gauge is 0.63mOhm per foot. Total of 24 feet of wire in those cables, so 15 mOhm. That's garbage. At 100A you're dropping 1.5V. At 500A you're dropping 7.5V.

You do have to be a little more clear about the construction of your battery bank and charge source to get a perfectly correct answer. But the short answer is, no: if you have good clamps you ought to be able to do a hundred amps or two with no sweat.

These? Hell no. Copper plated steel? Get bent.

These? Maaaaybe. If they're not lying that they're actually copper. Looks brass plated, which is OK if it's really copper. But pretty thin looking crap, still. Also note how in both of these products only one of the clamp jaws is connected to the wire through copper. The other is on the opposing, steel arm of the clamp and so is completely useless.

Now this is getting warmer (lol well hopefully less warm!). Note the connections to both sides of the clamp, and the clear use of thick copper for the actual jaws. It's a little bit inconvenient to use a Y harness to do that though.

Ahh, now this is getting there for sure. Dual live jaw, and note the braided copper strap connecting the two sides. And brass is harder than copper, and almost as conductive, which is nice.

My favorites are the ones with cast brass jaws and a connecting strap. I would trust those to say 2-300A continuous. But even they don't really live up to their ratings, for continuous duty. I've run them at 600A and had the copper braid turn purple from oxidation/overheating. So always derate something you use for continuous use, when you know that the manufacturers have a tendency to state the best case intermittent use of the product (especially for a jumper where the use is supposed to be intermittent).

u/EvilPencil · 4 pointsr/priusdwellers

It’ll probably work. Just know that you won’t be able to do much else with the cig lighters while the fridge compressor is on (Phone charging is probably ok, but that’s about it). 10A max per Toyota; both sockets are on the same fuse, and the fridge pulls about 6A when it’s running.

Also if you keep the fridge quite full you could probably turn the car off for an hour every now and then while it’s cool out if needed. The other option is to keep the car in ready mode and lock the car with the physical key from the outside, though it’s still not very secure. Someone could literally break a window and drive away when the car is in that condition.

You could also wire it directly to the battery, which if you’re fulltiming I’d recommend doing. Something like this oughta do the trick. Then you wouldn’t have to keep the car on all the time (including when you’re away from the vehicle). The stock battery can safely keep the fridge running for 12 hours or so (wintertime, overnights) before it needs a recharge. I haven’t been through a summer yet with this config though, so I don’t know what the numbers would look like then.

u/psmydog · 2 pointsr/VEDC

I would buy this,


In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.

Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.

Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.

That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.

This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.

As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.

I would splurge for these nice jumper cables

That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.

I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.

u/kandoras · 1 pointr/TrollXChromosomes

OK, should these things happen again, here are some things you should keep in the trunk.

A tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. It won't help much with larger leaks, but for smaller ones it'll let you reinflate the tire long enough to get to an auto shop.

If you want to plug a leak, you'll need a tire repair kit. This isn't as simple to use as the inflator (you'd want to practice or at least see it done first), but it's not rocket science either. A word of caution though: the needles used in those kits have been known to break, so don't do what that guy did at 2:48 where he was lucky not to give himself a vasectomy.

If the nail or whatever is still in the tire, then you'll need something like vice grips to pull it out. If it's not in the tire, then you'll need the inflator to push air in and some (preferably soapy) water to see pour on the tire and see bubbles where the air is coming out.

And since this kit is $6 and has plugs to fix four flats and a shop will charge you $5 to fix one, it doesn't take that long to start saving a few bucks.

A set of jumper cables. Honestly, I don't know why dealerships don't put this in every car that drives off the lot. Here's how to use them correctly. With these, you won't need to call AAA for (most) dead batteries, just find some kind soul willing to let you jump off of their car. For jumper cables there's a few things you want to look for:

  • Made of 100% copper. Cheaper ones are made of aluminum or aluminum with a copper shell. Those don't work as well, and they break easier.
  • Longer is better. After all, they're no good if they won't reach!
u/cheez0r · 3 pointsr/motorcycle

A Slime 12v Air Compressor or Stop-N-Go Tire Plugging kit (or both together) make a great gift for motorcyclists, as well as motorcycle-specific jumper cables or a jump starting battery.

u/SigBoi · 3 pointsr/preppers

Nice toy... lol just kidding anyone with a jump pack is better prepared than most for a dead battery. I have a GB150 from NOCO, 4000A, can jump a semi if needed. I run a car dealer and this can jump 30 cars in a row on one charge. Worth every penny

NOCO Boost Pro GB150 4000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter

u/BannockSlap · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

You'd be surprised how kind and helpful strangers can be. The last time my car battery died it was in the dead of winter and before I got out my car some good ol' boy from the county pulled up in his jacked-up truck and gave me a boost-- it was great.

Anyway, I'd recommend these cables. You don't want to mess around with anything smaller than 2 gauge in my opinion (the larger the gauge number, the thinner the wire which is bad).

But yeah, don't bother relying on batteries-- they're a waste of money when the kindness of a stranger is far more reliable in my opinion.

u/Pegasesus · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I might even spring for the 16' cables, I know my 20' have saved me loads of headaches. But definitely 4 guage, the only thing more expensive than a nice pair of jumper cables, is a broken shitty pair of cables, then having to buy a nice pair to replace them. Here's a link to a cheap good pair from amazon that I use.

u/Gah_Blox · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Brand, no..Your just looking for something like this. (BTW looks like they are significantly cheaper online. ~$70 is what I saw at a Sears auto center and PepBoys

Longer length gives you more options, thicker cable and better clamps means your not standing in the rain or cold as long.

u/superboots · 1 pointr/Frugal

If you want something longer for convenience go with these

Since this is /r/frugal though, the shorter the cable the thinner it can be and still carry the same current. So if you want to save some bucks you could go for something like this (the 12 foot option)

u/garage_cleaner · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

i hope my batteries don't die. Hopefully, if so, this will help!

u/AnnaBranson · 1 pointr/Jeep

I usually look at the usefulness of the gift I give. Both my mother and I are kind of height challenged. So, I got my dad a set of roll bar grab handles from Amazon. It wraps around the roll bar using Velcro and can be positioned where suitable. Now it's easy to get in and out of the Jeep. It was under $25. This is the one I got -->

u/CJM8515 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

For the consumer level its basically find the thickest setup you can. I think I have an old set from walmart I got, heavy duty and something like 30 bucks years ago. IDK what I did with them. Cables I always have in my truck are professional ones you would use with a tow truck that are easily 1" thick cables. Those ones can jumpstart some serious stuff.

When buying cables the number is the gauge size of the wire, smaller number is thicker cable. Thicker the cable the more current it can carry and less resistance.

Something along these liens would work well in most cases:

u/courbple · 1 pointr/minnesota

Basically everyone I know has some version of this in their car for the winter. The bristles are for sweeping snow off your car, and the flat, plastic blade on the other end is for scraping ice off your windshield and windows. Sometimes the blade and bristles are on the same end, and that's fine too. A tool like this is 100% crucial, and if you don't have one handy a credit card/debit card will work in its place although you'll likely ruin the card.

Also the jumper cables are no joke too. If your car battery is old, you might find you have some trouble starting your car in the morning. The engine will be sluggish, especially if the weather is below zero. If it doesn't turn over at all, or if you forget a light on (for some reason this always happens to me in winter), you'll need a set of jumper cables to get your car going again. I'm 100% sure everyone who's lived in MN their whole life has had to get their car jumped before, and I've personally helped 8 or 9 people jump start their car in my 30+ years of living here. The key is the lower the gauge number the better (lower numbered gauge = thicker wire and try to get at least a 6 gauge but preferably a 4 gauge), and the longer the cables the better. You might think 4 gauge and 20 ft is too much. It isn't.

u/meta-mark · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Does anyone have recommendations for a trickle charger? I already have a connector like this one hooked up.

I'm looking for something to keep my battery charged overnight (kept in the garage but not heated, and it gets cold in WI overnight) and then to keep the battery fresh over winter.

u/Morgrid · 4 pointsr/preppers

NOCO Genius Boost Max GB500 20000 Amp 12V/24V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter

u/wordstrappedinmyhead · 2 pointsr/VEDC

Personal opinion here, so take it for what it's worth.

With jumper cables, go big and go long.

Now that said..... I had the HF 6 gauge booster cables that I picked up for the XJ about 3-4 years ago. Never used them once, so I really can't speak to their functional quality. The clamps were the weak spot since the rivets used for the hinges were kinda junky. Really light-weight also, because the cable was copper clad aluminum.

I bought these from Amazon last month as a Christmas present for myself: Professional Booster Cable 1 Gauge 25 ft 800 amp

There's a major difference in quality between these and the HF cables. They've got good reviews on Amazon, except for the one guy complaining about how they cracked in the cold.

u/weatherjack_ · 1 pointr/4x4

Cut the plug off and install these on the wires. Just make sure the polarity is correct.

u/rdrast · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

You would have to convert to cable, but you can probably use Fork Truck Battery Connectors.

u/mooxie · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Normally the cable that goes from the battery to the tender is called a 'pigtail,' in my experience.

I doubt that this is one because of the fact that I've never personally seen a tender where it was possible to mix up the positive and negative leads; normally each end has one female and one male prong to ensure that it is plugged in correctly. I guess that the proper orientation is forced by the small clip on top in this case, but I've still never seen one like that.

My guess is that it is an accessory or lighting lead, but as someone else said you'd have to ask the PO to know for sure, or trace it back and try to figure it out.

If on some off-chance this IS a battery tender pigtail, I would recommend replacing it with one that uses the standard prongs either way so that you can choose from a wider variety of tenders.

u/kboogie82 · 0 pointsr/vandwellers

Holy shit I didn't understand half of what your talking about I have a transit connect as well with no solar.

No solar for me either.

I use a 12v male to male connector. Schumacher 12v male to male(It's on amazon) straight into the 12v next to me while I'm driving and I have a fused voltmeter 12v splitter so I can monitor the charge of my rig and house battery so nothing gets over/undercharged. I also have a 6 in 1 Schumacher jumpstarter/power station however I will also have a larger deep cycle in a battery box with a 12v to battery fused connector. See all below.

I think your over complicating your build a little there, this whole sticking a isolator blah blah you guys do and than wonder why all your batteries are shit over a couple months and your alternator needs replacing and you starter ect. Jeez Edison and Tesla are screaming from there grave K-I-S-S.