Reddit mentions: The best automotive tools & equipment

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

My experience with dust and RVs is summarized here. This approach keep the RV reasonably clean the entire burn, and I usually can get it spotless in less than 4 hours post Burn (2 people working).

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Here's most of the post -- formatting is better on the link and there's info re the issues with bike racks covering license plates, etc. on the link as well:

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Preparing the RV for Burning Man

The best thing you can do to make sure your RV doesn’t get damaged at Burning Man or require extensive cleanup is to do the right prep work.

Floors. First, protect the floors. If you have wood floors, use red rosin paper like this. If you have carpet, use disposable carpet protection like this. Bring enough to change the protection a few times during your burn. One roll of the red rosin paper allows us to change the main area three times during the event in our 34' RV.

Windows. Next, cover all rubber molding on the outside of the RV with either high quality painters tape or (better yet) gaffer tape. Cleaning molding is very challenging, and the tape will not only keep it clean, but also keep dust from getting under it. Make sure it’s wide enough to the edges of the molding - at least 2”. The gaffer tape is significantly more expensive, but is easy to remove and won’t leave a film. If you are using painter tape, be sure to test it on a small area before going by affixing it to some molding and then running a hair dryer on it to heat it up. If it passes the test, be sure to also check once or twice during the Burn to ensure it doesn’t leave a sticky residue when you remove it.

An alternative technique is to entirely cover the windows with some type of plastic film and tape it on. People typically use a clear plastic film. We avoid doing this because the high winds can very easily tear the film at the time you need it most.

We do this stage while waiting in line at the entrance gate. Be sure to have a ladder or tough bin you can stand on to reach all the windows.

Outside Vents and Seams. Once on the playa, if your RV expands, tape up any seams around the pop outs after you are fully extended. Here’s where extra wide painters tape (4”) works great.

Finally, cover any vent holes that aren’t used during your Burn, being careful not to obstruct any working vents. A note on roof AC vents. We used to use a hammock filter on our outside AC vents. In normal conditions, these can be used to keep dust out of AC vents, and will permit airflow so can be in place while AC is running. Problem is, we have never gotten them to stay in place long in the high winds in the playa. So we gave up. We’ve seen very few people with these in place so our advice is to skip this step.

Inside Windows. You will want to cover all of the inside of your windows with insulated bubble wrap like this Reflectix product. Cover every inch of window on the inside, and tape it down. It makes a huge difference.

Some people swear by also using Reflectix on the roof of the RV. This will absolutely reduce the temperature of your RV. But you must be sure to affix the wrap so it won’t blow off. And we have seen many examples of well taped materials blowing away. If you are going to go this route, consider supplementing an excellent taping job with some 20 lb weights or the like to ensure that the material stays in place during a dust storm.

Finally, cover all the chairs and couches. We use a combination of fitted bed sheets taped or clipped in place and Press n’ Seal cling film. A little experimentation will tell you which works best where. Press n’ Seal will work on the dash board and other surfaces you won’t be using and want to keep clean.

Keeping Your RV Clean

Get an old stained rug….. people will sell these for next to nothing or give them away. 6x6 feet is big enough, but larger works too. Put this in front of your RV, and either weigh it down or use lag bolts to screw it to the playa. Place a non-shedding door mat on the carpet right when you walk in to the RV, so you can scrape your shoes. (Don’t use a mat with small fibers - they will shed, and leave you a heck of a cleanup job…hard learned life lesson). Have a bucket at the door so you can immediately remove your shoes on the steps of the RV, and place them in the bucket. Consider also hanging a sheet from the ceiling over the inside of your RV door creating an “air lock” entrance which will reduce dust blowing into the RV. We’ve moved away from doing this, as we haven’t found it necessary if you just open and close the RV door quickly (in all conditions!). But if you are more casual about getting in and out, this approach will help reduce dust blowing in.

This setup significantly reduces any dust you will track in on your feet. But your clothes may also be covered in dust, so consider having clean clothes available to change into. Our RV also has a chair right when you walk in, which we cover in a sheet that is changed several times during the Burn - it’s the place we sit when we are dusty but don’t want to change our clothes immediately.

A few times during the Burn we will do a good cleaning of the RV, dusting surfaces, and removing the paper from the floor, cleaning the floor and putting down new paper.

We use a high quality broom to sweep out the RV, which we have found to be more effective than using a portable vacuum. We also have an electric leaf blower and small air compressor, which with practice can be used to move dust around… it takes some skill to move it where you want to move it, so proceed with caution and avoid just creating a huge dust cloud. The leaf blower is really reserved for blowing out external storage areas, and blowing dust out of the engine compartment of the RV before driving home.

We keep a sheet over our bed when we aren’t sleeping in it, and carefully fold it up before getting into bed to catch any dust that has settled during the day. We usually change the bed twice at the burn.

We keep our dirty clothing in clear plastic trash bags, to contain the dust, and often remove and put on really dusty clothing outside the RV in our external storage compartments.

All these efforts combine to our RV being quite clean upon our return home.

Cleaning Up After

Once we leave the playa we pull over and remove all the external tape, so it doesn’t blow off on the drive home. We stop at the guy with the pressure sprayer in Cedarville. Gerlach has a wash as well that benefits the community. In Cedarville, we like to just do it ourselves rather than risk him damaging the glass or molding, and he’s more than happy to take a break while we do it. It’s cheap….something like $15. It’s not a perfect cleaning, just getting enough dust off the RV so when we get home we can wash it well without leaving a layer of mud on the street.

Once home we slowly and carefully remove all the sheets and cling film covering the furniture in the RV, as well as stripping the bed. We then carefully roll up the paper off the floor and dispose of it. This effectively removes almost all the dust in the RV.

We then use our air compressor to blow dust out of all the crevices.

Next, we wipe all surfaces down. If they are fairly dusty, we start with wiping everything down with a dry huck towel (the brand in the link is our favorite by far). Next we wipe with a dry microfiber cloth. By getting almost all of the dust off before any water is used, you make the final sponge cleaning very simple…no muddy smears.

We use a 50-50 mix of water and white vinegar to wipe down all the other surfaces and to do a final cleaning of the floor, cleaning our sponges regularly. The entire cleaning process typically takes around 2 hours on the interior. We pressure wash the outside, which adds another hour to do it well. Three hours of cleaning and the RV looks close to perfect.

Note: Renting, borrowing or buying a large air compressor is a great way to clean all of your burner gear. Our bikes look almost new every year after spending an hour with the air compressor and an oil bath for the chain. Be careful not to blow dust into bearings, etc., just work the non-lubricated areas. A leaf blower is great for a first pass, and between the two you will be shocked how clean you can get all your gear.

Some people recommend going to a laundromat to clean clothing, but we have never had a problem washing in our own machine. Your mileage may vary! We generally do small loads of all machine washable stuff, and then re-wash a second time with standard size loads. Wiping down the machine and then re-washing my white socks using white vinegar leaves the washing machine spotless and the socks surprisingly white.

Other resources.

The official Burning Man RV page

Good pointers for an RV at Burning Man

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

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do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

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here's another one

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TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

I highly recommend switching to a DE razor with a true lather rather than canned foam. If you are in the US, Maggard Razors is a good source. I recommend this 22mm brush and either their V2 open-comb head or their V3 bar-guard head. I find the V2OC to be somewhat more comfortable and more efficient than the V3, but either will work well.

Read this post on blades and get a blade sampler pack. I recommend trying 3-4 brands of blades (trying them in alphabetic order is as good a way as any) and then sticking with the best of those for two months so you can master technique without being distracted by blade variability. Then once a month try one blade of a new brand. If it's better, switch to that as your regular brand; if it's not, then stick with your old regular brand. Then a month later try a blade of another new brand and make the same decision. After a year, you might return to the early rejects: with improved technique, they may turn out to be good after all. This method ensures that most of the time you shave with a brand that is good for you, and that you compare just two brands at a time: your regular brand and the new brand you just tried.

I find that my best pre-shave has been to use a high-glycerin soap to wash my stubble at the sink following a shower. I rinse partially with a splash and then apply lather to my wet, somewhat soapy stubble. Here are some reasons that it might work for you. Some good soaps for this: Musgo Real Glyce Lime Oil soap (MR GLO), or Whole Foods 365 brand glycerin soap, or Dr. Bronner's bar soap, or Clearly Natural glycerin soap. Some shaving vendors also offer a high-glycerin pre-shave soap—-for example, this RazoRock pre-shave soap is available from several vendors.

Yes, it is vital to know the direction of your beard's growth. You can use this interactive diagram to map the grain.

For acne, I recommend:

a. Check the ingredients in your shaving products and know which to avoid—menthol, for example, is not a good idea. Until your acne's in remission, you can favor unscented shaving creams and soaps, though some fragrance is probably not going to cause problems.

b. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

c. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

d. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your face. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic. You may need to wet the block in colder climes during the winter, when indoor relatively humidity plummets. Since a few men have skin sensitive to alum (their skin turns red and hot for a few minutes after they use it), you may want to test the block on the crease of your elbow joint: wet block, rub it gently on the skin there, and wait 10 minutes. If you have no reaction, use it as advised. (Alum also makes a great styptic if you get a cut: for that use, wet a corner of the block and press it firmly against the cut or nick for 20-40 seconds.)

e. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. Also, these towels from Ikea are said to be good. A wet towel is a microbe incubator. I will add that I have found that using a special towel for the shave adds a pleasant note to the experience: I do not suffer from acne, but even so I use a barber towel when I shave, just for the enjoyment.

f. Shave daily. Use very light pressure Think of your skin as being badly sunburned and the razor is an uncomfortably hot bar, but the razor still must touch the skin—but barely. That kind of light pressure. Daily shaving probably helps by being exfoliating and by the daily alum block and good aftershave—try one of the Thayers witch hazels with aloe vera or one of the witch-hazel-based aftershaves by ProspectorCo.com or StirlingSoap.com. Since the shave itself is exfoliating, I suggest restricting exfoliating scrubs to the forehead and nose and not use them where you shave—this is to minimize skin damage.

g. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

h. If you have choices on how you eat, try observing this diet (but without the dairy) for a month and see what happens. It works for some. Here's another description of the same diet. And here's the reason the diet is recommended.

When you start, take care to avoid the four most common mistakes cartridge shavers make when switching to a DE razor.

Hope this helps. Welcome.

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

Here's my opinion

Shampoo- good choice, make sure you're using a washing mitt and not any kitchen sponge, something like http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903374&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+mitt will be fine

Towel- while you can dry with any microfiber towel, it will be best to use one specifically made for drying so you don't have to wring out the towel after every wipe. Also, using a low quality microfiber has the possibility of scratching the paint. My recommendation would be http://www.theragcompany.com/Dry-Me-A-River-26-x-59-Premium-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Towel-42009-2659-OW.htm

Wax- I have no idea how much you want to spend, but if you're going to be applying it by hand you generally want to go with a carnuba wax as they are easier to apply and wipe off. My personal favorite is pinnacle souveran liquid wax. Probably out of the price range for a beginner, but it's super easy to apply/wipe off, and it produces amazing results and lasts a lot longer than other carnuba waxes. http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html If you want something on the cheaper end and can be purchased in auto stores, go with Meguiar's gold class liquid wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7016-Carnauba-Premium-Liquid/dp/B0002UNOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903940&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+class+wax

Applicators- If you're applying wax, go with a foam applicator pad like these lake country applicator pads(make sure they're the red color) with this palm grip

Headlights- If you have a power drill, I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3000-Heavy-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B004HCOE72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405904455&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+headlight kit as it attaches right to the drill and works very well.

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

It's just the towels are too thin. ONR is perfectly safe even if your paint is heavily soiled, but you're spraying the car down before hand knocking off any loose debris so that's a plus. I'd rather use the towels that I bought from Walmart than the ones they sell on Amazon for cheap. Basically the Amazon microfibers are throwaway towels, used for interior, engine bay, and wheels. However I do use them to do spot paint correction. Things like putting some compound and getting rid of the scratches behind the door handle, using Meguiar's ScratchX and getting rid of minor scratches. I suggest getting the Eagle Edgeless from The Rag Company, in my opinion they're the best (even though I don't have them). I have the Creature Edgeless ones and they work just as great. Or if you're on a budget get these, I'm not sure what the equivalent name for these towels are on The Rag Company website, but they should be good too. Also I recommend getting a Nanoskin Sponge or you can get the mitt too. It's a clay alternative and lasts forever (make sure you don't let it face down or in the sun, my friend left his in the sun and it melted).

Edit: I just re-read your post and you know what's funny? I actually just cleaned the same exact car as yours today, but it was black!

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

The Costco ones are perfectly suitable for general use, They're about 350-360 GSM and as far as "cheap" towels go, they're a better bang for your buck than many others out there. That said, they're 80/20 blend, not 70/30. (I'm not sure where you saw 70/30? But unless they did some major tweaks recently, they're 80/20 like they've always been)

Those CG towels are extremely popular because of their price-point. They're 70/30 which puts them a notch above the Costco towels, but they're pretty much same GSM.

Our Spectrum towels are 70/30 blend and 420 GSM, which is why you see them costing a little more than the other two. (Not sure what you mean by small, though-- They're 16" x 16" just like the Costco towels)

If you want something from TRC more comparable in spec to your other choices, I'd steer you towards the Edgeless 365. It's 365 GSM as the name implies, with a 70/30 blend and an ultrasonic-cut border. (Which gives it the edge for detailing purposes-- Pun intended)

If you're looking for something cheaper, we also do Edgeless 300's and Edgeless 245's. But I find detailers tend to like the 365's best as an all-around useful towel.

Anyway, I'm sure any of these will suit your needs, I just wanted to make sure to weigh-in! :P

Cleaning tips!

Here's a great starter kit ($25) for washing / polishing / waxing your car's paint: Amazon link - everything you need except a hose, bucket, and wash mitt.

Keep all windows clean. Keep your wipers clean (yes you have to clean them too). Stoners Invisible Glass and Rain-X on all windows.

Separate all towels. Don't mix your wax towels with your glass towels with your interior towels. You can get some in different colors to help separate them. You need to own a lot of good microfiber towels and separate and label them, keep them clean and dry. Recommend stocking up on Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels: Amazon link You want your towels to contain 17-30% polyamide (nylon), and the rest polyester. Polyamide is what give microfiber it's soft feel and absorbency.

Cabin air filter, change it every 15k-20k miles. These are what your air conditioning is filtered through and it gets dirty. So replace this and you'll have cleaner cabin air!

Vaccum the inside of the car on a regular weekly basis. Dyson DC34 handheld vaccum is the best thing ever: Amazon link Also some oxy-clean car fabric/upholstry cleaner works great for cleaning the car seats once a year- just make sure you dry it and run the A/C.

If you need more info head over to /r/autodetailing

Great timing on the question I'm looking to treat my Demonic Red leather seats and love the matte finish. My seats generally stay clean, so a dry soft microfiber is what I have been using. I'm looking to protect and treat the leather to keep it from cracking over time, while NOT adding shine.

​

I didn't do such a good job treating my scat pack seats and after 4 years noticed the beginning of wear and creases. Not really noticeable to the normal person, but my OCD was triggered... I had been using Turtle wax blue Ice which is great 1 step for cleaning and protecting normal leather or fake leather, but not really a good regimen for protecting soft leathers.

​

I've been researching for a while and found my 2 go to brands have products that "allegedly" work really well at cleaning and conditioning without adding shine. It's really tough to find good true reviews with all the sponsored content out there. These are the 2 products I plan to order and test.

​

• Chemical guys cleaner and conditioner $19.00
  
• Adam's cleaner and conditioner $28.89
  
  ​
  
  The basic process is to clean the leather with a proper leather cleaner first to remove any dirt and oils from your skin that build up over time, this can create issues with the leather even though you condition regularly. Once you have a clean surface you can then treat with conditioner, let soak in, then buff off. I'll be using my favorite microfiber towels 1 for cleaning 1 for conditioning and 1 for buffing off.

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

thanks for the tag /u/solitudechirs

/u/CMDRHailedcaribou91 I highly doubt most car washes would be willing to do that unless its a self serve place.

do you know if that cavalcade is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

• Meg's Quick Interior Detailer
  
• 303 protectant
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Wax (spray)
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Detailer (spray)
  
• Some MF pads
  
• [Detailing brushes]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWBDBFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Tire dressing applicators
  
• Mother's wheel brush
  
• Costco MF towels
  
  And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
  
  

1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
   
2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
   
3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?
   
   We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
   
   Thanks for reading this long-winded post!

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

1. The starter kit comes with ultimate polish and compound. Those are less aggressive versions of M105 and M205. I would skip the kit and just get the Meguiars duo.
   
2. Instead of the mothers clay kit get the meguiars kit. IT has better clay and the spray detailer it comes with is way better.
   
3. If you're getting Collinite #845 then you wont need Poorboys world EX. Collinite #845 lasts a long time and in my opinion #845 looks better than EX.
   
4. The Meguiars wheel kit is VERY aggressive. I would get some Sonax Full Effect for the wheels and use Meguiars D101 (which is on the list) for the tires.
   
5. The Mothers tire brush is awful! Just terrible to use. The popular choice now is the tuf shine tire brush. Its simple and its the best tire brush hands down.
   
   Some things you may have forgotten:
   
   
6. Since I told you to pretty much skip most of the kits you have listed, get some cheap microfiber towels for everywhere but your paint. I recommend zwipes from amazon. I use these towels to dry tires/wheels, interior, glass, everywhere but the paint.
   
   
7. Wash mitts. I really like chenille wash mitts.
   
   
8. Nice towels for your paint. You need nice microfiber towels that will only be used on your paint. Anything from theragcompany.com will be good or some generic chemical guys microfiber. Another good brand is Cobra.

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

get these towels: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497666477&sr=1-2&keywords=meguiars+drying+towel

i know they're kinda overpriced but they're amazing and as long as you dont do something stupid like drop them and keep using them, they dont swirl your clearcoat. theyre quite absorbent too, so soft. 2 of these will dry an FR-S. The first one will be soaked, but is enough to get the beaded water off your finish, then use the 2nd one to mop up.

In terms of wax, that Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax is amazing. Synthetic so it lasts much longer than carnauba, and ive never had a wax go on and off so easily. Dries in like 5-10 minutes, and buffs right off. I was amazed! Leaves a helluva shine too. I put it on my glass and exterior lights as well.

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

You don't need separate soap for the wheels, but either do them after cleaning the car, or use a separate bucket for them because that water will get FILTHY. Could also get a dedicated wheel cleaner if soap isnt cutting it for you.

One thing I would suggest is getting a pack of bulk towels. You only have 1 on that list and believe me, you'll be glad you bought more than one. A bunch of people here grab the huge 36 pack from costco, you can find them on Amazon and the price varies between $15-$25

https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=kirkland%2Btowels&qid=1557168083&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1 (this package is much bigger than the picture would suggest lol)

The dry me a river is a great drying towel though, I do my whole car with one. A

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

I really like this brush its for car detailing, but it's designed to not scratch surfaces and be really good at removing dust. Its got a great handle that is comfortable to use, bristles long enough to get in-between knobs and its small enough to keep on your desk and not be too obnoxious. https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Acc_S90-Boars-Detail/dp/B00N8RI67Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=chemical+guys+brush&qid=1567088098&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Short answer, yes, use an alum block. Long answer, here's a copy/paste from one of /u/Leisureguy's many posts; it answers your questions pretty well:

>For acne, I recommend:

>a. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

>b. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

>c. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your beard. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic.

>d. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. A wet towel is a microbe incubator.

>e. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

Sure thing. Use these to dry: THE RAG COMPANY (2-Pack 16 in. x 24 in. Professional Twist Loop Microfiber Drying and Detailing Towels - Korean 70/30 550gsm Microfiber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWXMFKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j-nZCbNPCF9XQ

Rinseless wash, or detailing, these will do great: THE RAG COMPANY (4-Pack 16 in. x 16 in. Eagle EDGELESS 500 Professional Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels (16x16, Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ScoZCbBEC3PA5

Care and Maintenance: Wash everything above together with cold water and white distilled vinegar (put the vinegar in the fabric softener tray if available) and use a fragrance free detergent. Either hang dry when done or dry on low. DO NOT USE DRYER SHEETS, it ruins the towels almost instantly.

Welcome to the rabbit hole! :)

I'd get a fine grade nanoskin mitt or something similar for decon. Maybe a foam gun or foam lance and some soap. Might want to grab an APC for interior cleaning, although I think you can dilute ONR down as an APC... I really like Optimum APC though, very safe and effective.

I saw this today on slickdeals, choose subscribe & save to get it down to $13.35: 1-Gallon Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash

I have a few small scratches and many swirl marks on my instrument cluster cover (Jeep Grand Cherokee). I have tried to buff them out by hand, which helped with the big scratches, but not the swirl marks. I know the DA Power System Tool attachment isn't popular around here, but it fits my budget well, and I think it would work well for removing those swirls. What do you guys think of that tool, with PlastX, to clean up the instrument cluster? (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3500-Power-System-Tool/dp/B009OBVRY4/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523631233&sr=1-8&keywords=DA+polisher)

Thanks guys!

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

If you're trying to keep costs at a minimum then I recommend ditching that kit. Have you googled the Gary dean method of washing? If not then check it out. Basically he uses one bucket and a couple of microfibers as washing media. The pros to this is that 1. You don't have to lug around two buckets. 2. No need for grit guards. 3. After im done washing my car. Since the water is clean I can actually save it for later use. Gary deans method has one downside which is that you have to invest in more microfibers. Honestly, you can buy the ONR, and bucket. Then buy about 6-20 good quality microfiber towels. The clay you have is good and you're on the right track. You can also never go wrong with collinite 845. For the towels I recommend these

So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.

​

1. Because of the efficiency of pressure washing, I've decided to make my routine cleaning a rinse, foam cannon, wash, rinse, dry. Is that good enough for routine wash?
   
2. I have a Wolfgang paint sealant in my garage which I'll apply as a LSP when I'm confident enough, i haven't seen it recommended on the wiki, am I making a mistake with it?
   
3. Is it ok to use microfiber towels instead of a mitt for washing?
   
4. I've been watching this guys video where he claims using a high pH soap to strip everything and always re-sealing/re-waxing Meguiars spray wax is the way to go. He claims that over time debris gets melded _with_ the wax and so it's better to strip it all out. What are your thoughts?

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002654I46/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002654I46&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003UW1IQU&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20

I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol

That's probably the toughest part about detailing, is looking at the number of products and trying to find exactly what is perfect for you! That's the reason why detailing is so dangerous, once you get in, you keep searching and trying more products. If you want to keep up with maintenance, I'd suggest getting a nanoskin mitt. Lasts much longer, easier to use, less of a hassle, the pros go on forever, the only con is the upfront cost. If you want to clay once, clay is more economical but the mitt is DEFINITELY better in the long run. I do 2'x2' sections, and when you finish compounding, you wipe off. You don't want to mix products on the same pad. People say to buy 2-3 of each pad, as when one gets oversaturated it loses its effectiveness and may lead to micromarring, but I've never had a problem using only 1 Orange LCC pad and 1 White LCC pad for 105 and 205, respectively.

I had this issue and aside from a tool to get in the corners, you really are simply lacking in good microfibers. Once I bought some good ones for the first time in my life, I realized how crucial towels are in the whole equation of detailing. These are the ones I bought which are just great, in fact the best mf towels I own currently: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

No sweat! Glad the damp rag seemed to work out well. I bought these microfiber cloths a while back that I use to clean up all my flips. They work great and don't shed any lint at all. Great for cleaning up shoes and getting into all the nubs on the bottom.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

i dont cut my crease very often but i usually do that with a more precise set of tools like an angle brush for the cut and a pencil brush to blend out the cut. when i say crease work, i mean i load up the "slopes" of the tip and stuff it in the crease to define it more, moving it from side to side in the orbital socket, then use circular motions to blend/diffuse the color. with round blending brushes or fatter ones i dont trust them to do the applying a defining color part and just use them to blow out product to my liking.

i find that softness doesnt affect laydown. denseness and hair texture does. i've never played with the stila window palettes, but I use mac which everyone likes to cry about how hard pressed they are so it guess its equivalent? I just tap my brush several times in the pan and roll the brush around to coat it if i find that i want more product.

i do use the Z-8 for powder! it's meant to be a bigger cheek brush, and is about one finger width (for me) smaller than the k002. s105 is actually really skinny if you keep it compressed in a guard or when you first get it out of the package (like most brushes haha). im actually kind of annoyed that the Z-8 is smaller but more expensive, so it's less "worth it" for the money.... but its prettier :/ here's chart on the specs of it 1

i dont even own a alcohol based cleaner and i dont think i would use one ever :/ i switch and wipe down i use these which are cheap as shit but massive so i cut them down to half of a face towel size and hem the edges. for cleaning my brushes i use a diluted kind-of-expensive gel face wash that i dont really use anymore since i found a better one, but I couldnt be bothered to get rid of it and would feel guilty throwing out. it was fine for my face, imo non stripping, so i watered it down to reduce lather but still foam up a bit (i like bubbles as an indicator) and use it to clean my brushes because it removed even foundation well. its the philosophy purity gel cleanser. lots of people use baby shampoo. i've heard the beauty blender solid is fantastic but i've never used it

I enjoy Collinite 845, Optimum soap, drying aid, for my dash, doors interior, and vinyl on the outside , wash mitt , drying towel , interior and exterior microfibers great for buffing wax and dust on the interior. And if you want that shine and to keep the integrity of your clear coat I would wax every couple months, depending the quality of the wax you decide to go with.

I agree but man even my cheapo corded da polisher outlasts me on a day’s work. I just throw the cord over my shoulder and it keeps on kicking. I think you’d almost be better off getting a really long extension cord or even a cheaper generator. If you’re in range to charge the batteries while you’re using the other one, you’re in range for an extension cord. You could always do something like the meguiars DA attachment for drills and just use a cordless one. It’s a direct drive system for like $80 maybe?

Edit: Meg’s power system

All you need is 2 buckets and a good wash mitt/drying mf towel and good soap.

• You can get the 2 buckets from home depot.
  
  
• The wash mitt from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).
  
  
• The soap from Autozone - Meguiar's Gold Class is good enough.
  
  
• A drying towel from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).
  
  Use the power washer and hose at the self wash. Done.
  
  I recommend upgrading to a better wash mitt and drying MF over time.

Oh wow thats great. I had no idea it was that strong. I will probably plastidip my wheels a matte black color to go with my white BRZ. Should look good!

Never use a bristle brush on my wheels, just a microfiber mitt.

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

303 Aerospace should work great it's a cleaner and protectant, but you might also like Nextzett which I posted above.

For matte paint/PPF I would recommend Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Quick Detailer: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_995_16-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948037&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+detailer+for+matte

For towels, I like:

Plush for cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCKE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Miscellaneous Disposable (not for dirty surfaces since they are low plush): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00937YLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Waffle weave for drying: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_781_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948166&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+drying

Lint free for glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would pick up the following, if you are ready for machine polishing, you will need to pick up a DA polisher and pads as well.

• Nanoskin Wash Mitt - Clay alternative
  
  
• Grit Guards - 2 of them for each 5 gallon bucket. This will keep the swirls from coming back after you correct them.
  
  
• Meguiar's D101 APC Gallon - This is a great wallet friendly APC which can be diluted for different tasks.
  
  

I was honestly going to go for an offbrand claybar on Amazon since it’s fairly well reviewed, like this one. Seems like its good bang for the buck. Have you tried something like this?

Also, not sure if you’ve encountered this on your white paint, but do you think a claybar would get rid of this?

https://i.imgur.com/fzkOYWh.jpg

It’s the offwhite colored patch I described above which I honestly don’t know where it came from. Won’t come out with a normal wash. Feels a bit rougher than the regular paint work.

I actually LOVE the chemical guys gold MF towel

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=chemical+guys+microfiber&qid=1557973969&s=gateway&sprefix=chemical+guys&sr=8-3

I've used many different types of towels and these just suit me the best. They're cheap enough ( I got a pack of 12 for $16 so I bought as many as I could afford.)

They last a long time with proper care but ate cheap enough that I'm not afraid to toss them when necessary. Enjoy!

> clean the smudges and lines on the screen

Not sure if you ever got an answer, but I use this for my mobile and tablet:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Microfiber-Lens-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B004PHD2YU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2

I also find these to AMAZING at cleaning up the gunk easily: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_2

Surgical/ hospital towels are a similar good option (lint free, 100% cotton, and come in a lovely blue!) that can be found for even cheaper. Amazon link here.

Can you please link me to the MIC_506_12 you are looking at?

I found this 12 pack on Amazon... does not look like 46% off for me though. Still a pretty solid deal.

I am also curious, what would be a good use for these different microfiber:

1. Zwipes (cheaper and thinner)
   
2. Chemical Guys MIC_506_12
   
3. Chemical Guys MIC_1024_3
   
   

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

Oh boy this is confusing. So I have a couple of needs:

1. Waterless wash/quick detailer
   
2. Applying/buffing sealants like Carpro Reload
   
3. Drying
   
   Is it possible for someone to recommend a few options for each category? Is something like this good for #1 and #2? What about this for drying? How does that waffle one compare to this Woolly Mammoth one?

I hose my bike down, then I use some nice clean soapy mitts from a bucket and get in between all the nooks and spokes, glass, etc. Then I hose it off again, wipe it down with microfiber hand towels and this towel.

I clay bar once a year and wax all the painted and glass surfaces. With my car I use an orbital to apply the wax but I'll wipe it off by hand.

Then I'll take it for a ride to let all the nooks and crannies air dry, but some people use compressed air. I don't use a power washer as I don't want to ruin bearings or any electrical stuff that isnt 101% weatherproof.

Thinking about it I believe I can recommend 4 products:
Pink clay bar, really good for a regular claying.
Blue clay bar, for neglected paint, be aware that you'll need to polish after claying because it will leave swirls.
Chemical guys clay lube, maybe there's better, but this is the best for its cost.
Meguiar's wash mitt, doesn't scratch the paint and it's really affordable.

A micro fiber cloth (I like the ones used for car washing 16" x 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCKE8/ ) and "Monoproce universal screen cleaner" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KPQ2NW/ ) is all you need. Make sure your a/c is nice and cold in the room and you will be good.

There are microfiber towels made especially for drying the car off. Get a few of those (usually 2 big ones work for the 3). These are really good:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_781_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCIVI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1T8KAPHD7ULBQ&keywords=microfiber+drying+towel&qid=1562016793&s=gateway&sprefix=microfiber+dry%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-5

​

Most of the micro-marring and swirls are caused by the drying process, but a good microfiber towel will reduce the chances. Also if you happen to have an electric leaf blower around, that works well too to blow the water off. Then get the tiny spots and door jambs with the microfiber towel.

Ignore the bit about sponges, get a wash mit like this one, it’s $4 and your clear-coat will thank you. Besides, in the long run it’ll be cheaper to treat your paint gently rather than pay for paint correction.

Edit: I’ve been living with a 2002 S80 T6 for a year now, so if you need any info regarding the P2 Volvos, hit me up :)

Never knew about the clay towel; nice tip. The Nanoskin sponges are great. Links below for those curious.

Sponge:
https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-018-AutoScrub-Medium-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWEUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496785409&sr=8-5&keywords=nanoskin+sponge

Towel:
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Grade-Towel-Detailing-Cloth/dp/B00Y1OBG8Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496785236&sr=8-3&keywords=clay+towel

Hey Larry, love your videos.

Two questions:

1. What's good starting entry level steam cleaner or water extractor for those who detail on a budget?
   
2. What about this for a starter DA Polisher?

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

The potential hazards are that if you accidentally missed a spot while washing, you have a very high chance of dragging dirt across your paint. Best case scenario you get a light swirl mark or streak. Worst case scenario you grind away much deeper into your clear coat causing damage, thus requiring paint correction using compounding and polishing.

It's just best to avoid it and use a better option such as a quality micro fiber cloth designed for the purposes of drying paint.

EDIT: /u/theragcompany these guys are pretty awesome. I'd recommend a waffle weave towel like this http://www.theragcompany.com/products/premium-microfiber-16-x-24-waffle-weave-towel.html but other manufacturers make them as well. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/

[Nanoskin Mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-016-AutoScrub-Fine-Grade/dp/B00DOS0LH2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422296825&sr=8-3&keywords=nanoskin)

There is also a medium grade sponge that is smaller but works really well, as well as a combo pack that has medium and fine grade together.

Note that you shouldn't use this as a standard 'wash mitt' though. It is literally a substitute for a clay bar.

> waffle weave microfiber

Will do, I dont want to spend $10 on one "name brand" one though, because i go through microfibers quick. After i put them in the washing machine stuff sticks to them and its annoying. I would think only to dry the car with these if they are in perfect condition.

Check these out:

https://www.amazon.com/American-Terry-Mills-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B0193XZXYW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1493905763&sr=8-22&keywords=waffle+weave+microfiber

Think they will be good?

I was also looking at these, which ones do you think will be better? They seem to have slightly different material

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Waffle-Weave-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B019YG8WW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493905763&sr=8-5&keywords=waffle+weave+microfiber

EDIT: those are probably too small huh 16x16

Is this only for the windows and no paint? Do not ever use a squeegee on paint. For windows the glass is much harder than paint but still can scratch it yet this is very rare and your probably good. Have you considered a drying towel like below. Its $8 works amazing. No risk and you can use on paint.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1413229092&sr=8-6&keywords=automotive+drying

I used this one IPELY 4 Pack 100g Car Clay Bar Auto Detailing Magic Clay Bar Cleaner For Car Wash Car Detailing Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753FSQN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OROLBbS6H1ESK

Seems to have worked great. Was able to get rid most of the deep embedded spots on my bumper.

Plus one on the microfiber. I've got a couple of microfiber terry cloths that do a great job. I got mine free from shell when I filled my tank. But these are similar.

I was very happy with:

Chemical Guys, Microfiber Towel

Chemical Guys, Microfiber Drying Towel

Still looking for a good wax though...

If you want a paint correction including a chip fill and compounding, you’re going to pay a lot more than $200. I’d recommend getting a Porter-Cable 7424 and pads for about that amount of money and watching a bunch of YouTube videos. It’s nearly impossible to screw up the paint with that tool.

Paint chips are much harder and require a very special skill set. However, the skill is learnable and doesn’t require any special tools.

Unfortunately, a DIY approach is the only way to get a good result anywhere near this price point. I don’t know of any reputable detail guys who would touch this kind of job for under $1000.

I just went with the Meguiar's since it was only $6, but haven't really compared to anything else yet. I guess I have been generally happy with other Amazon Basics items.

I use these and just throw them in the wash after:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E

They are pretty cheap for being reusable. Honestly washing them every time is probably overkill anyway, a quick rinse would be fine.

The video shows the big red sponge. I personally use these for my wash:

Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 in. x 16 in.) (Pack of 12)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCIVI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this for drying (I have two) + Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax or CarPro Reload (depending if I have it)

Chemical Guys MIC_781_01 Waffle Weave Gray Matter Microfiber Drying Towel (25 in. x 36 in.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCIVI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use one microfiber at a time on the plush side folded into quarters. I spray the panel with the bucket mixture put into one of these sprayers and wipe the panel down in ONE direction relative to the towel. When a side gets dirty I flip and when all 4 are dirty I get a new towel. I go through a lot of towels but they wash out easily.

Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BX4VXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Also in the winter, you can fill the bucket with warm water AND do it in the garage. It's amazing.

how about the Meguiar's one?

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1405130888&sr=1-1&keywords=waffle+weave+drying+towel

$7.26 each?... any good?

BTW, I use a chamois to dry my car. One is almost as old as I am and the other one is a new synthetic one... so... anything else might be an improvement

I recently started using the Soap&Glory Peaches and Clean cleanser that is a makeup remover and it's great! It takes off eye makeup as well and it's really fast . It's also only $12 for a huge bottle.

Something that also gets all makeup off is baby oil. Use baby oil and a mircrofiber cloth like this and you will have zero problems taking anything off because the oil breaks down everything. The microfiber cloths are great too no matter what you're using, so you could use just like water and it's help a lot more. The ones I linked say they're for cars but they're just the same as other microfiber cloths, but ones marketed for cars are dirt cheap in stores for big packs.

The only problem with baby oil is you'll have to follow up with another cleanser to get the oil off. If what you're using now works for everything else but the eyes, I'd say to stick to that and use baby oil on just the eyes and rinse it off :)

What kind of towels do you use to dry?
I typically use these but not sure if it would be the best for my car
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

For a regular wash I'd suggest a product like Meguiar's Gold Class shampoo. You can find it at auto parts stores and amazon. Optimum No Rinse doesn't foam and is only intended for "waterless" wash (which really means 2 gallons of water).

P.S. Get yourself 3-4 good towels. I recommend these for their cost effectiveness + softness.
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/

Nothing more than a typical automotive microfiber microfiber. I go through quite a few using them for car/paint care, and I buy them in bulk off Amazon.

It's funny because I approached the boots the way I would restore a car's paint:

1. Cutting product to remove swirls and scratches = Hard scrubbing the shell with a damp microfiber and deer boning to even everything out.
   
   
2. Polish to hammer out the rest of the light scratches, add gloss and prep the paint for waxing = Saphir Renovateur
   
   
3. Wax or other final topper = Saphir Cordovan Cream
   
   And that's my inane correlation for the day.

Like this?

Turtle Wax T-241A Polishing Compound & Scratch Remover - 10.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JToqDbD8N20PT

With this?

Viking Car Care 862400 Microfiber Applicator Pads - 5 Inch Diameter, Blue, 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8UoqDbG3V6T3Y

I would like a Rupes 21 or 15. If I were to get the 21, it would be with the 5" backing plate. Probably the only thing that I would want. As for Nanoskin, maybe a Nanoskin wash-mitt. These are awesome and make claying a lot faster. The only downside is tighter areas. I would keep traditional clay for that. http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-016-AutoScrub-Fine-Grade/dp/B00DOS0LH2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411408985&sr=8-2&keywords=nanoskin

Are these any good?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382664326&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I have a Amazon giftcard n I am trying to use....that's why I am posting amazon links

The only 2 things I would change are your drying towel and I would get a nanoskin mitt instead of the clay. I recommend the Cobra waffle weave I have a full size 4 door truck and can dry the whole truck with one towel.http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Guzzler-Waffle-Drying-inches/dp/B0015JAHTE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404427157&sr=8-2&keywords=cobra+waffle+weave+guzzler

And the Nanoskin is way easier and quicker than clay.http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-016-AutoScrub-Fine-Grade/dp/B00DOS0LH2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1404427188&sr=1-4&keywords=nanoskin

Are the Eurow 350gsm good? What gsm would the griots blue towels be? Can i get a mircofiber comparable to the griots for $2 each or am i crazy? How do detailers have boxes of towels that cost like $6 each?

Edit: These look promising but i really want to have some one with hands on experience guide me.

I'm a rag company fan. I've enjoyed these. They're durable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QNUO7FK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By hand with a microfiber pad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I made sure to try and follow this guide: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

The best kitchen towels!

https://www.amazon.com/Towels-Doctor-Joe-Surgical-Towel/dp/B003YCEMUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=blue+surgical+huck+towels&qid=1564586303&s=gateway&sr=8-4

What you're looking for is either wax used on duster jackets. Or Otter Wax.

As for removing: An iron and paper towels or a regular towel is best. You can also use a waffle weave drying towel. These suck up moister like magic. To do the pockets, just stuff them with something to fill them out and give support. To make the surface flat, cut a piece of cardboard to slip inside.

Whatever you use, I suggest putting tissue paper between the iron and the towel. This protects the material from scorching/melting, and from getting a bunch of crap on the iron's shoe.

These things will change your life (actually they will just keep your watches cleaner, but you get the point)...
Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQYCKE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NmScBbTTCV9J0

Edit: LOL downvotes. For recommending a good cleaning rag on a post with perhaps the dirtiest Sub this year. This subreddit is so ridiculous sometimes.

Chemical Guys blue WorkHorse towel

Kirkland Signature towel

Do you like low pile towels? I know the eagle edgeless gets a lot of love but I dislike high pile towels. Whats your favorite towel?

These chemical guys towels have worked really well for me. Combined with their microfiber wash, they’ve stayed very soft and clean.

Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 in. x 16 in.) (Pack of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-NdcBbAN0K9FS

I'm applying the wax by hand, using some generic pads, like this, that I found in my garage. I've waxed two cars so far and I've used the method of covering the bottle opening with the applicator and shaking up and down once or twice at each panel. Not sure if I'm using too much or too little.

I purchased the Dry Me a River towels and they have been great! Unfortunately, one of the towels has gotten snagged on a few sharp ends on some of the cars I have worked on and the fabric has pulled away from the rest of the towel. How bad is that for the towel, exactly? Also, this is really dumb question, but how do you use the towels (for example, how wet is the towel supposed to get before flipping to another side)? Sorry for being so technical.

Is using All Advanced Oxi Detergent okay for washing The Rag Company's towels?

I went with The Rag Company Professional Edgeless towels in combination with a spray detailer to add a little lubrication while drying. Keep in mind, I'm still new to this, so I'm looking for suggestions as well. I've just read really good things about their microfiber towels.

I mean like a legit cleaning rag. Not that tiny little thing that came with the PSVR. Same thing I use to clean my TV/Computer screen, windows, etc.

I use Sonax on my wheels and clean the calipers with a soft brush like this.

Nanoskin Mitt Amazon

cheapest I have found and I love it.

Quick question about a couple starter supplies, re: claying, waxxing and tires/wheels. I'm working on putting together a kit for first-time detailing my 92 miata (single-stage paint)

claying: I've heard good things about the nanoskin sponge and mits, does anyone have any feedback on this ABN towel? reviews seem solid, and I was considering getting it instead of the sponge. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Grade-Towel-Detailing-Cloth/dp/B00Y1OBG8Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504977575&sr=1-5&keywords=clay+mitt

waxxing: ill be getting the collinite 845, as far as application goes I just need some application pads and towels to buff with, right? I was considering https://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504986720&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+applicator+pad and https://www.theragcompany.com/eagle-edgeless-16-x-16-microfiber-towel/

re: wheels/tires, i'll be good to go with APC, tire brush, wheel brush, and tire dressing, right? not quite ready to drop 50$ into a woolie set yet, so I was going to go with the mini ez detail

My thought is that you'd rather get a few scratches from picking up something in the clay bar process than doing the same thing with the DA and pushing the contaminate all over the place.

Wash twice, claybar, then polish. It shouldn't take long if your paint isn't that dirty.

Also, maybe try a clay bar cloth. I really enjoyed using it over the bar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y1OBG8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_56Rmxb9AVZB9X

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Grade-Towel-Detailing-Cloth/dp/B00Y1OBG8Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464214636&sr=1-1&keywords=clay+bar+cloth
anyone use a product like this? does it work as well as actual clay bar

I was considering these also. How is yours better?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TZBB3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414699682&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057O0GSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1414699720&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009IQZFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414700082&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Rain X, always

A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss

A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU

A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber

Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.



Maintenance:

Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.

Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.

Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.

Rhino ramps to drive up on.

Try some APC and a brush like this
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S90-Boars-Detail/dp/B00N8RI67Q
If that doesn't help, you might have to disassemble and clean

Edit. Obviously apply to APC to the brush sparingly. Don't spray the console directly.

If you plan on working on customer vehicles, grab your self one of these. It will make cut your time down by at least half. It is just a mitt that acts like clay removing contaminants from the paint. Like clay, you need some form of a lubricant. Your normal car wash soap works fine.