Reddit mentions: The best automotive engine parts

If she likes building things, maybe consider getting her something like this V-Twin motorcycle engine model as a birthday present in the future, it could be a great project for you guys to work on together. Hell even just a 3D jigsaw would challenge her to use spacial reasoning etc. She might be a bit young for it now but keep these kind of things in mind. You'll learn a lot too and don't worry if you feel out of you're depth because

1. There are instruction manuals for a reason.
   
2. Google is also on stand by as a fall back and
   
3. Learning by trial and error (and frustration) is a huge part of science/engineering. She'll learn valuable lessons by seeing you overcome challenges too.
   
   If she already has the passion for it, with these projects aim to teach her discipline and focus and make sure she doesn't give up on it when it gets hard. Achievements build confidence and further feed the passion and skill. Good luck to both you and your little girl genius there :)

Greetings, fellow 3800 owner! Those plastic intakes are a nightmare. You can try swapping an aluminum one from a Series III motor on there, but it will require a throttle body adapter for the TB to fit. I think you are better off just getting a good aftermarket replacement like this one. They are pretty easy to install and it should last a long time. That ATP intake seems to be more durable and better made than the Dorman one, I replaced my intake with a Dorman one 2 years ago but I can see it warping near the TB slightly already. What car is that 3800 in? What led up to you having to replace the ICM?

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

---

Parts List

• 2 Magstrikes x $20 = $40
  
• Screws and Misc Parts = $20+
  
• Elastic = $2
  
• 8 Magstrike Mags = $32
  
• 3 Magstrike Mags = (received in a trade)
  
• 100 Whistler Darts = $15
  
  Subtotal: $109
  
  ---
  
  Clothing/Storage
  
  
• Carrier Vest - $17
  
• SAW Ammo Pouches x3 - $24
  
• M4 Magazine Pouch (fits the power bank) - $3
  
• Bike Tool Bag - $9
  
  Subtotal: $53
  
  ---
  
  Air Tank Parts - All fittings are 1/4" NPT
  
  
• Viair 1 Gallon Air Tank - $40
  
• Safety Release Valve - $7.37
  
• 1/4" Schrader Valve - $4.85
  
• Pressure Gauge - $5
  
• Viair Braided Air Hose - $13.80
  
• Elbow Pieces x3 = $12.51
  
• Regulator - $21
  
• Ball Port Valve - $8.50
  
• 45 Degree Elbow - $5.57
  
• 10Ft of Tubing - $2.40
  
• Nylon Push-to-Connect Adapter - $3.07
  
• Push-to-Connect Adapter x2 = $5
  
• Wye Adapter - $4.65
  
• Threaded 1/4" Push-To-Connect - $4.70
  
• Quick Disconnect Adapter - $5
  
• Baby carrier (Pawn Shop) - $15
  
  Subtotal: $158.45
  
  ---
  
  Lighting
  
  
• 226 Lumen Maglight - $25
  
• Wide Angle Lens (for bike light) - $5
  
• 1200 Lumen Bike Light - $20
  
• 10000 mAh USB Power Bank - $33
  
  Subtotal: $83
  
  ---
  
  Tools
  
  
• Air Compressor - $60 (Got a deal on it)
  
  Subtotal: $60
  
  ---
  
  Unknown Prices/Misc Pieces
  
  
• Wood
  
• Brackets
  
• Screws
  
• Foam
  
• Epoxy Putty
  
  Estimated Subtotal: $10
  
  ----
  
  Grand Total: $473.45
  
  This includes all the parts currently being used in the mod. It doesn't count the two magstrikes I broke/parted out from experiments, other gun parts, extra fittings and all my tools I purchased to build the stuff. Most of this was broken up into small purchases over the past 2 years. $5 fitting here. $50 order there. I also purchased mostly things I could use outside of just HvZ like the bike light, ammo pouches, etc so it's not all wasted on nerf stuff.

Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.

I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart

My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.

As long as you

• Don't set a tool down anywhere other than on your cart!
  
  
• Always put away tools you put on your cart between every job. No exceptions.
  
  you will never lose a tool.
  
  On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
  
  On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
  
  On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
  
  Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
  
  Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.

First you should let us know your model so we know if you need a TD04 or a GT17. Aero models use the TD04, the Linear uses the GT17. I forget if the 3.0 uses a Garret but I think they do... Should you have a GT17 turbo car I cannot recommend enough to upgrade to the TD04. A MUCH more robust turbo than the GT. Swapping them is easy, bolt on with the only difference being the lines and you might need to swap your cobra pipe depending on model year of the TD04. Again, not necessary, but definitely recommended.

Do you know whats wrong with the turbo? I would first suggest a rebuild kit providing the housing is intact... You can get the parts and do it yourself for around 100-150 bucks. Add labor for removing and such obviously, but that would be the cheapest. Personally I'd check some junkyard in your area. As you are probably aware, Saabs are $$ to fix because parts are $$. Finding used or remanned parts is a serious win.

You could probably call Nick at GS and ask if he has any used ones kicking around for cheap. I don't trust many online retailers only because a lot of them are cheap Chinese manned turbos that go after 50k miles. Drives me nuts how many cars get back on the road only to start smoking 10k-20k down the road.

GT17 repair kit: [Link] (http://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Rebuild-SAAB-Garrett-Turbochargers/dp/B00BEJ9WUA)

EDIT: Totally forgot. Check the forums for turbos for sale. Saablink, Saabcentral, Saabnet, and others. TD04s are popular sale items there. If you live in the Northeast I can give you a few of my favorite junkyards in the area. Might help you out.

Well it's not leather but it's worked so far in keeping a few small spills and adding some more protection from the actual cushions being indented from the car seat. Minor gripes were putting the rear seat back together with the added thickness took a few tries, and my rear back seat protectors don't look quite as neat now.

Some other functional things I've done to mine:

• Replaced the OEM 16mm rear sway bar with a 19mm one (20mm available as well) which cut back on the rear sway feeling when you're cornering.
  
  
• Replaced the H11 headlamps with H9 and used this adapter so I didn't have to mess with any factory wiring. The only difference between the fit is a little notch that needs to be cut. H9s are brighter but will last a bit shorter.
  
  
• Replaced my interior bulbs with LED. I used this kit from eBay and later replaced the cargo LED with a brighter one.
  
  
• Installed a Fumoto drain valve to make oil changes a breeze.
  
  
• Replaced all the speakers with aftermarket and added an amp.
  
  Enjoy the new ride!

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

Thanks.

After a few beers...

I pulled the trigger on it as well as a new intake manifold, a gasket, a Keihin carb, (I just bought a carb but could always use a better quality one). A gang of tools. This kit arrived as well as 3 different hi flow air filters due to some order confusion.

I hope all this, when installed and tuned, at least gets me to 38/40mph faster with good throttle response and is reliable. I'm not looking for top end speed so much.

This was just supposed to be something to learn how to 'wrench' on, but lately I've been wanting to fix it up all sporty like and actually use it as transportation.

Shop ain’t giving you proper tools? Business people these days...sacrifice safety for profit. Wear gloves, hopefully they provide that. ....loosen the oil drain plug with a decent ratchet/wrench, buy this tool and keep for yourself: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
Loosen bolt rest of the way with that and you will not get a drop of oil on yourself it’ll hold the drain bolt too so that it won’t fall into your old oil collection...proper tools will help you avoid touching the hot areas of the oil pan

If you need additional sockets get harbor freight..hex set plus ratchet and extensions....safety is important.

If you have to get safety glasses too...I use them for oil changes, and if others make fun of you, ignore them.

Charging the battery while driving is pretty simple but took me a year to figure out how simple it was. Hopefully you are planning on using a trailer wire junction box. If so, run a 14ga wire from the junction box (that connects to your truck) to the positive side of the battery. Add something like this inline between the junction and the battery for safety. https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Automatic-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B07NSD3KYH

For shore power, I used one of these on the side of the camper which then runs to a 2 amp charger that charges the battery. In hindsight, I should of done a 4 or 5 amp charger.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16-Inch-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S

​

Solar, do as other have said and get a controller.

Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.

Heater

Mechanical Timer

The intercooler is actually just sitting on the rad support. I think I put rubber under the feet. You can see in one of the pics the bar that spans the 2 verticals. The bolts through that have hooks on the end and hook to the bar of steel bolted to the top of the IC to kind of clamp it in place. It's not perfect but it works. It's simple and makes it relatively easy if I have to pull it for some reason.

This is the actual kit I used to plumb mine. Had to order a few other adapters to make it hook up to the turbo and intake manifold, but that's about it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EW9D796/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_SlwUBbTXJPTBB

Edit: Sorry if I like to ramble. I'm weirdly passionate about two things.

1. Mk1 Volkswagens
   
2. Old VW diesels.
   
   Oh, and turbochargers. Everything should be diesel and turbocharged in my world. Haha

Oops.. Innovative Performance Chip/Power Programmer for Audi A3 & S3 1.4L, 1.8L, 2.0L and 3.2L - Improve Your Fuel Mileage, Save Gas & Gain More MPG, Increase Horsepower & Torque with this Engine Tuner! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WFIJEZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SQEyybZC6VB95

I have a 2015 Touring. I added 30% tint on the front (which nicely matches the rear privacy glass), OEM window deflectors, Rokblokz mudflaps, JBR Rear sway bar and brackets (to reduce body roll in cornering), Fumoto Oil Valve - F-106N(for easier oil changes), McGard Spline Drive Lugs, and changed my wheels to Rays RE30s 18x7.5 +50 with Yokohama YK740 GTX 235 /60 R18 tires.

All these mods were easy to install, except for the RSB. That took a bit of time, but the install instructions are detailed and straight forward.

Happy modding!

Like other people said it is all in your owners manual. But if you are going to at least be changing your own oil, I highly recommend getting the fumoto valve it has made changing the oil quick, and super clean since I got it!!! It is a must buy.

My friend spotted this vehicle in a public parking lot in SF Bay Area.

Additional photos:

http://i.imgur.com/dfJXcn6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uulAUJc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qrbfmxx.jpg

Anybody any more information on what this is?



edit: A few more pics:

Not radar, but IbeoLux modules: Actually 2 there are 2 on each rear side looking sideways, two more on the rear bumper looking backwards, and two more under the front headlights looking forwards. http://i.imgur.com/ez0tlee.jpg

Also, there are two rectangular panels adjacent to the front radar. (Looks like a Delphi ESR 2.5 Radar ) http://i.imgur.com/703JyDp.jpg

There are Lidars on the right side mirror too. The molding looks perfect. http://i.imgur.com/ruKO5ee.jpg

2 Garmin GPS antennas on the back roof roof corners near the rear window. http://i.imgur.com/nx0VAQh.jpg

Lastly, there is a 'NOCO Genius GCP1' power port on the front bumper, adjacent to the 80/20 beam, which is probably used to provide power to whatever additional equipment they screw into the beam. http://i.imgur.com/SqCbiMF.jpg

My conclusion is that this is NOT a Tesla prototype, rather some small company who is working on self-driving/computer vision software. I'm not sure why they would choose a Model S for this though, except perhaps because they want to sell their software to Tesla, or perhaps they are a Tesla partner which has managed to get access to the control systems for steering, braking and speed.

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.


https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter

Filter : 8.50

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve

Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30

35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.

So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.


Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.

So I just saw this on Amazon last night and ordered it immediately. No idea how well it works but it looks like it will save your sanity if it does.

I didn't get a working link to the FB page on your progress, but just let me know your TNTTT account handle and I'll pop over there to look. One other thing - of the several 120V inlets out there, this one is the best behaved so far. The only caveat is that you'll have to trim the idiot-proofing rubber nub off your extension cord receptacles.

No none at all. It's honestly the perfect amount of noise. Loud enough for me when I want it, but quiet when I want it quiet.

The bov I have is www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS-0203-1061-Blow-Off-Valve/dp/B00IGWW5UC

Very easy install. Placement of BOV is behind front right wheel.

Lol. It got you good. Recommend one of these. Loosen the drain plug 2 turns and snap this handy tool on before loosening further.

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yTI4Cb3T9Z3FD

Laugh if you want, but I have been using these oil valves for years with no problems. Just connect a tube from the valve to a gallon jug and open it up. No cleaning to deal with. Still need to do the filter but these valves make the bulk of the clean up super easy.

They make cab heaters. I have one like this in one of my classics.

I've never seen a head bolt heater that actually gets the engine warm enough to get the heater going more quickly when it's legitimately cold out. I prefer an engine preheater like this (installs between the rad hoses and circulates as it heats), or an auto start.

Get yourself something like this and never look back. You take a small hose, afix it to the valve nipple and toss the other end in a milk jug and enjoy your effortlessly spotless oil change.

It replaces your drain plug, so you just put it on the next time you change your oil, which hopefully will be the LAST time you have to worry about cleanup at all.

FYI, one of these gives you the same function in a better design.

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4

Here's what I got for my 2018 Crosstrek. Works great!

If you have access to an impact this socket will take the crank pulley bolt right off. I've done about a dozen timing belt jobs with it and it works perfectly every time.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U

Works great.

I used to use a Kat's heater on my Land Rover oil pan, and it worked great on sub zero mornings.

I actually just watched the oil change video from Jake TheGardenSnake where he links the crush washers he used for his 2016 FZ07. Thanks for the help!

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwAQx7WCObM

Crush Washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3B595M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=jakesnake-20&linkId=c4a1fcd63fb9b300320c5cad4b0c189c

Two inexpensive but totally worthwhile upgrades:

1. LED fog lights
   
2. Fumoto oil drain valve

> however it’s not always possible to warm up, especially when it gets to -35 etc. nothing warms up in that.

Hot Pad Heater ($30.44 USD) + Engine Block Heater ($27.95 USD)

A119 is very popular, goodluck with it, v2 is more stable than v1.

Oh thanks for the tip! How would you clip it on?

Would this work for heat?

Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9O6Hub1RH35ZH

For the oil and filter, I'd recommend going to the closest Jap Four dealer and get your manufacturer, or a similar manufacturer's 10w40 for 4 strokes, then go to the parts department and tell them you need a filter for your exact bike; almost guaranteed they have some in stock.

Gloves - if you go to the pharmacy section in walmart or a similar store, you can get 100 gloves for under $10. You'll pretty much never have to buy them again.

Here's a set of metal crush washers that are actually cheaper per washer ($.89 vs $.793 each). Again, get a bunch right away, and then you don't have to worry about it for a while.

Torque wrench - some people are recommending against that one, or even using one in general. There's nothing wrong with torquing an oil drain bolt, it's a little excessive, but you can't do anything wrong if you torque it to spec. That might not be the most accurate torque wrench in the world, but unless you're taking apart the motor, it'll be close enough for what you use it for. Plus by buying one now, you'll have it for future use, obviously it's not like it's only applicable for this one specific job.

Lisle socket with an impact is the best solution I know of.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=asc_df_B00RGNCV1U/

Years ago I couldn’t get one of these off with 1/2 impact but 3/4 with lots of air spun it right off.

Fumoto F-106N Engine Oil Drain Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LhsdzbWY9T49J

This makes things extremely easy to change. Just have a hose and open it up and goes right into your pan.

Maybe on the impact. I used their 3/4 wrench on mine. My clapped out 1/2 inch pneumatic didn't cut it. Lisle makes a special socket that would probably work with that one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sNmSCb9RNCJ71

Supercrazy M13 X 1.5MM Oil Pan Drain Plug Thread Repair Tool Kit SF0087B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0R7KQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9ZVJKNF9USKss

This worked well for me on an x5 with aluminum pan. Use some Teflon tape on the drain plug and you should be fine.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F108S-Drain-Valve-Nippple/dp/B004FFHH0M&ved=2ahUKEwjRmaPTsPXdAhWRr1kKHR9DAwkQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2JfhwxL-qMeQ5p6lHjMDPa

I just changed the oil in my '16 Crosstrek. This makes it much easier.

This little guy will make your life a lot easier then.

There are easier ways to achieve this...

I did spraypaint them with a metallic gold (they were black). I put an old jack in there to keep paint from seeping into the input itself. The power input was on Amazon and the paint job definitely adds a little steampunk/vintage vibe, since it didn't coat the rubber it looks kind of tarnished.

So in my 06 LBZ I moved from conventional oil to a synthetic blend (T5) then to a full synthetic (Shell Rotella T6) at my last oil change. I also purchased a fumoto valve, that replaces your drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan, and has a ball valve in it, so you can hook up a hose, and then open the valve and cleanly drain your oil into a catch pan, or jugs or whatever your using. Now that I'm at 10k mile intervals with the T6 and I don't daily drive my Duramax anymore, I haven't had to do an oil change yet, but will be doing one at the end of the summer. Lots of oil threads on duramaxforum.com as well.

Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

I think I might understand you... would something like this do what you are envisioning?


https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-125V-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S

If you're riding in cold/chilly weather, consider a heating pad on the case/oil pan like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457748904&sr=8-4&keywords=katz+pad

like this

I think they are 14x22.3 but other sizes might work okay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3B595M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PxEVybFFTKRX2

My work already has these in cars for our work in cold weather. They are usually plugged into a wall outlet but I've seen some people have ones that plug into the car. Some google searching shows similar stuff with timers too, so I'm not sure what would be novel about such a proposed patent.

If you do your own changes on a regular basis, it may be worth looking at a Fumoto valve; makes changes even faster/simpler.

I would suggest getting a Fumoto drain valve if you can get your plug out. Then you'll never have to worry about it again!

Where are you seeing $250? CJ has it for $170, and its $157 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS-0203-1061-Blow-Off-Valve/dp/B00IGWW5UC/

Would recommend getting that plug mounted up into the lower grille or bumper before the winter hits, otherwise it's going to be a corroded mess. NOCO is a nice option, it's the one I have.

Like PatAunces said, you're battery is probably dead. Hopefully it's not dead dead.

If you have accesses to an outlet here are a couple of items that will make future cold starts easier:

Battery Thermal Wrap
Universal Hot Pad Heater

You could also look into picking up a battery charger that supports trickle charges and leave it on your battery over night.

I have an old SUV that sits outside and only gets driven every other month. I disconnect the battery when I park it. If I don't the battery is dead in less than a week.

I have one for my Outback, and I'm never looking back to using a normal screw. Different models also have different styles (long tip, etc), so you're bound to find something that will still have adequate clearance even for off-roading. I personally use the F-108N, which has a long tip, and it still tucks away inside the factory skid plate.

As for not being able to drain completely...I'd say it depends. My OB has the drain hole facing the rear-ish of the car, and I have my car on ramps during oil changes, so gravity kinda does the work of clearing out that last little bit for me.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-Black-125V/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X6SE3S6B3876Q0A3TDS0

Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW

If you really wanna simplify the process get the one with the short nipple and buy the tube that goes with it. You can run this straight to the container and never have to deal with an oil pan

Fumoto F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJUGDbSSHZSCT

There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.

It's a DIY version of this...
http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4

You could take a route similar to mine, you can view my trip log here:

Also, for your water tanks I would suggest maybe getting a heating pad or two? They are designed to heat large tanks or in my case, I use it to heat my oil pan.

Hot Pads

Also this thing

here it is

Turbosmart TS-0203-1061 Blow-Off... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGWW5UC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They make magnetic ones you can just stick on your oil pan and plug it in. https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549848405&sr=8-2&keywords=magnet+block+heater

Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FY7Ezb7VY64VB

Wonder how it works? More mass than a standard socket?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RGNCV1U/ref=psdc_553424_t1_B01CVAG1SG

I got one of these for the next time. Wonder if it's the same theory?

For basic 15 amp power, I run something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-125V-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537219599&sr=1-1&keywords=15+amp+power+inlet

I plan on someday, maybe, running a 30 or 50 amp service through the wall.

I mean, this is 20 bucks and keeps your hands clean.

Thanks!, i didn't know they existed. Here's one on 120v.


This is 95% of what i was imagining, but requires installation. just chuck it somewhere and have the cord be as thin as possible so it can run thru the crack in the rubber of your closed car door (possible?).

Here ya go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBlD0WrFMKE

https://www.amazon.com/Kats-24150-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8TQD6

OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about

the lisle honda socket fits our engines too. same concept as welding more mass on.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-77080-Harmonic-Balancer-Socket/dp/B00RGNCV1U

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S

I suppose that a Fumoto oil valve would have to be next!

I used the F-108N on my '18, and it works great... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC

I suggest a block heater like this.

Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP

Turbosmart TS-0203-1061 Blow-Off... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGWW5UC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The dual port shortie is the 100% recirculating BOV. There is no ventilation into the atmosphere so you will not get the “pshhhh” sound when you close the throttle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this to make my oil changes easier. Drain your oil, replace the drain plug with this, make sure you get a crush washer from subaru and rent a torque wrench from auto zone, or something.


You'll be able to change your oil without any tools, save for a oil filter wrench. You'll have zero mess oil changes, though.

3/4" impact wrenches are $100 at harbor freight. I know a few guys who have one with a 19mm socket just for crank pulleys. But now special sockets exist that let me take Honda crank bolts off with my crusty old IR 1/2" impact gun.

BTW I just linked the first one I found, there are a few different ones and even some DIY sockets.

Jesus, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4

Shit will change your life.

>I should probably do my own oil change, now because it will save me any money (it will actually cost more) but just so that I know what's going on.

If you make a habit of doing your own oil changes, replace oil drain plug with a valve like this one, because fuck oil pans.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221

Just change your filter too, it's not that expensive($5).

Our cars take 0W-20. Up to you what company you want to go with for oil. Mobil 1/Royal Purple/Motul/Amsoil to name a few.

If you change the oil and get a new filter, you'll need 5 to 6 quarts. Fill up with 5, then check and see if it's full, otherwise add more.

You can cheat and install a Fumoto oil drain valve...next time you do your oil change it'll be a hell of a lot easier.

Bring a can of starting fluid. Powerstrokes hate the cold, even with fully functional glowplugs. If(when) you end up using it, remove the air filter cover and only give the engine a little sniff so the glowplugs don't cause a backfire.

Try to park near an outlet and plug in the block heater every night. Consider getting a magnetic pan heater and putting it on the bottom of your fuel tank.

just get the appropriate one of these. Makes oil changes take seconds and no dirty hands. Pro tip: add in some plastic tubing and just tuck that shit away and you don’t even need to crawl under your car anymore. They’re dope.

Dude, idk if you drive German or not but I have a VW and got sick of replacing the crush washer ever 3 times so found this: https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4

Been using it for 5 years now, no issues at all!