Reddit mentions: The best floor jacks

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Typically jacking up a car isn't a hard thing to figure out :).

We will use the driver (left side) of the car and the front tire for this example. Along the side of the car where you open your door there is typically a piece of metal that is extremely hard, it is typically directly under the sideskirt - on my car there is an arrow on the sideskirt that indicates where the metal is.

If you get down and look under almost any car nowadays you will see this protruding piece of metal, it will ALWAYS be behind the front tires and infront of the rear tires). That is where you place the jack and jackup the car. The metal piece itself is about 3 inches long and about a 1/2 inch thick.

Example can be seen here - the jack that is being used is what most cars will have in it - they are halfjacks, aka they are not full sized jacks.

To jackup a car to say... fix the rear brake pads (replacing them) you'd want a full size jack (which CAN fit in a cars trunk...just takes up a good bit of space haha). Full size jack can be seen here.

Now as for jacking up a car with a full size jack? Also easy! You just look under the car again (front or rear of the car whichever end you are jacking up) and find the metal point on the car designed for it, every car can be different but most are very similar. For my Scion? it is a metal hook under the rear of the car and the front is just a piece of metal like the sides of the car have. Your cars owner manual MAY tell you were the jack location is, or it may not. Youtube and Google have the answers in this case :)

Rear of my car jacked up while I replace the rear brake pads as they seized up on me completely and need replacing, they are also 10 years old haha.

Jacking up a car is something no one wants to do, but it is quite easy to do :) just make sure you don't jackup on something that isn't designed for it...like the oil pan D: that would be bad. I recommend getting someone who has done it before to show you the proper placement of the jack OR google it :) tons of videos and the like for this type of stuff out there.

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories

And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS

Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1

I have one exactly like the one you linked. Works great. Best $10 tool I ever bought. Never had an issue with it not working.

I have one of the cheap Harbor Freight 5-ton floor jacks. I've had it for 8 years and it just broke on me a few days ago. Not bad for a $60 jack that I use all the time.

I've decided to upgrade to this one, because it'll come in handy with my tractors and John Deere Gator:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00336EN60/

TSC has the same jack for $150 right now, but less than $130 with free shipping is better. ;-)

I didnt have to since as the G2 Kit uses paint brush, so I just painted around it since it’s all about the aesthetics.

I used the adapters i bought from Amazon

Seven Sparta Jack Lift Pad for Tesla Model 3, 4PCS Jack Point Pad Sturdy Adapter Protects Battery & Paint for Using with a Floor Jack, Jack Lift Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXXVD9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7q4tDbMK9X0ZE


Jackstands like these and took the stick out and put the adapters on top of it. Make sure when you lower the car with a Jack, to Jack it down very slowly because the adapters can get out of place. Be VERY VERY careful hahah.

Pro-LifT T-6902 Grey Jack Stand - 2 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ws4tDbAVV9ZWN

I applied clear coat before applying the decal and then applied clear coat on the decal, so it can have the extra layer to cover it with 2 coats.

I do a lot of my own maintenance, and I had a craftsman jack for a while, but I just got this thing, and it is far and away 100 times nicer than that pile of shit I used to use. Avoid the jack stands with the lever you pull up to lower or raise the holds. These are much safer.
OTC jack with 2 stands
Pricey? Yep. Will it last? Most likely. Is it easy to use and pretty fucking cool? You bet.

Maybe the stock cooler is decent on a workstation, but on a gaming build with a decent GPU, it's just okay. I've got one of these in my main gaming rig and it dropped my temps something like 12-15c. On my desktop I have a Hyper T4 and it never goes above 53c. With that arctic cooler my gaming rig can go to 4.3GHz on my 6490k at something like 68-72c. You're not doing that with a stock cooler, it's already gonna be at 67-68c at stock clocks.

Neither cooler is $45, they're both sub-$25. Same thing with the jack on the car. It's cheap. Why do you want to potentially risk your life lifting a car on a flimsy default jack like this or this when something like this one is $30.

Two things I'd reccomend.

1. use quality jackstands. A jack can leak and fail, don't trust your life to them.
   
   
2. the Tesla is heavier than a normal car of the same size, don't buy under a 3ton jack. I would most likely jack up with a single point and lower it onto stands to do the roto. (see edits below, as i don't want to deviate too far from what the MFG suggests in regards to lift point warnings)
   
   Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
   
   
   Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
   
   
   E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
   
   E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
   
   These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
   
   It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.

I went to Big O tires and brought jack pads. They were more than willing to learn how to lift it.

Might as well buy a set if you are going to get tires changed. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHGM9BP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ngb9BbXKS0JG6 need 4 of them. Or if you have a 3D printer you can make some with hockey pucks super easy.

OP update: thanks for all of your comments and suggestions. SC performed a diagnostic this morning and gave the battery pack a clean bill of health. It's also worth noting that they originally quoted me $175 CDN to perform the diagnostic and ultimately did the work for free.
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/LbHWTa7

PS. ordered these yesterday https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07S51TLVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cd8IDb4BRJ1S7

There is an arrow on the side for where to jack on the pinch weld.

I use these for supporting the pinch (0.39"): Jack Pad Pinch Weld Puck

I also use a Harbor Freight Jack and that works pretty well, especially for the price: 1.5 Ton Jack

In regards to where to place your jack points, there is a solid diagram to show you where to place your jack and stands: Diagram

I would trust any nationwide chain to do it. Suggest buying some jack plugs and keep them in the car. Out of an abundance of caution mention to the shop they need to have these plugs in the holes as the contact for the jack points, best bet is buy a set of 4.

BASENOR Tesla Model 3 Jack Pad Pucks Jack Lift Pad Adapter Tool (Protects Battery & Chassis) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM6RNRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MFEQPhR7M8KUI

No kidding. I was amazed when I found out that you can get one of these for like $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380033-Steel-Floor-Jack/dp/B003UM42J0/ref=sr_1_6/191-5799343-8330658?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656029&sr=8-6&keywords=car+jack

Or you can do things the easy way and get a couple of these if you just want under the car...not so great for changing a tire.

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656071&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+ramps

This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)


Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.


Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.

I'll spare you the long rundown and assume you're aware of the dangers of a Hi-lift jack. Long story short, they can be awesome, or awesomely dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing (people have died). That said, if you still want one, and you really want to blow his mind, then there are a couple "musts", such as:

1. Don't buy an offbrand.
   
   
2. The 48" Hi-Lift Extreme jack fits really nicely in the back of the 3rd Gen.
   
   
3. You absolutely have to buy tie downs or a mounting system for it; otherwise it becomes insanely dangerous in an accident. A guy on the T4R website makes amazing mounts that beautifully fit a 48" hijack mount across the back (check it out here)
   
   Source: I also own a lifted 1999 4Runner on 32"s

GoJacks my friend. Then throw it up on a flatbed if they care enough

I've got the big heavy expensive one from sears in the garage along with a couple of $20 walmart specials. Honestly I use the walmart specials 9 times out of 10 because they are so light and easy to grab.

With that in mind I'd look for something aluminum and light weight. 3ton is still going to be heavy but you can get [this one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM) that's about half the weight of a standard steel one like this one.

As i said earlier: You are over thinking this. Google 2 ton jack and this is the result: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T82012-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack/dp/B0028JQYSS

You REALLY wanna trust that thing? Notice the one I linked earlier is a fullsize floor jack and the one I linked now is basically a last ditch effort type tool?

As I said earlier: The jack is ONLY lifting 1 corner or end at a time, thus not the entire curb weight of the vehicle.

Do they have (or do you have) a set of lift point adapters?

There are lots of options, but the Model 3 has really tiny lift points and I wouldn't want the shop to try lifting without them.

I personally own and can vouch for the quality of the ReverseLogic ones, but when I bought them they were one of the only games in town. Today, I'd probably make the puck/3D printed knob ones myself, since I'm a hockey player and have the pucks laying around :)

The base is completely different, allowing for a much wider array of uses, as is the additional top jaw.

They do, however charge $149.55 for the 'conversion kit'

http://firstresponder.hi-lift.com/resources/First_Responder_Conversion_Kit_Flyer.pdf

This is a better comparison:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464054291&sr=1-1&keywords=hi-lift+xtreme

where it has the additional top jaw, at that point it's $100 for paint, stickers and a base.

I have this one, it has a red neck extension that adds about 4" and is very helpful for lifting the 4Runner frame. I take it off if I'm working on my SO's Subaru.

Don't forget jack stands as well.

I had a hi-lift and forgot to put it in my Jeep when I had it shipped from FL to Vegas, ended up giving it away since it was cheaper than shipping it solo (cheaper to replace off of ebay with free shipping if I wanted another one). Now I have the ARB 72X10 Orange Bushranger X-Jack Kit seems like every jack has its faults. I have seen a lot of rotopax stacked 2 high in the configuration you are using. Only problem I have with my side mount is my door (rear view mirror?) bumps into it a lot when I open my driver's side door. It's only bumping into the rotopax so it is a soft "scrape" and I am not too concerned, just being more careful when I open my doors.

Forgot to mention my rotopax are secure-ish, I have a cable lock threaded through them looping through a U bolt attached to the mount.

I would like to start changing the oil on my car (potentially on my parent's too) so does anyone have the link to that floor jack post from a couple days ago, if there was one? I have a 2000 Celica GTS, if you want to recommend anything here. I was thinking this with these jack stands, but that jack is expensive for me. I just don't want to have a car on my face.

Also, what are some other jack points/ jack stand positions other than the ones on the side of the car for the scissor jack?

This floor jack is just an example. It’s portable and stable but it does take up space.

The thing I don’t like about the bottle jack is that you must be on flat hard ground or else it could tip over or simply drive itself into the ground and not lift the car.

Questions on wheel cleaning

1. Should I stop using Meguiar's Hot Shine High Gloss Tire Spray? What damage do silicone based tire dressing do? I've only used it once so far.
   
   
2. What pieces of equipment should I buy to remove my tires in order to clean inside the wheel wells and wax them? I'm thinking a tire iron and a floor jack should do the trick.
   
   Thanks

Emergency jack isn't the safest thing to do it with.

You can buy a $25 jack and be much easier and safer to work with.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T82012-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack/dp/B0028JQYSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427251005&sr=8-1&keywords=car+jack

Like this even..
Liftmaster Hydraulic Trolley Floor Jack 2 Ton Heavy Duty Car Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013FA4XA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OLVOBbKV3JW3J

I actually think this is a great idea. Maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017T7WHW

They sell a floor jack at Costco from Arcan for $100.

This is it or similar ($249 on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM

I consider a jack a safety item which is not something to skimp on. That said, you don't have to blow the bank either.

Costco doesn't always have the jack in stock but Arcan jacks usually last a long, long time.

Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5

Floor jack + tire skates = relocating his car to the very furthest parking space in the lot in less than 5 minutes.

Or buy an adapter... https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Protects-Individually-Purchase-Professional/dp/B07GHGM9BP

https://www.amazon.com/Seven-Sparta-Adapter-Protects-Battery/dp/B07QXXVD9Y

I've often fantasized about carrying Go-Jacks with me and moving the cars myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO

Go Jacks!
http://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Jack-6200-Lb-Capacity-GJ-6200/dp/B000VNFYXO
Get four of these, problem solved.

It's the Harbor Freight knockoff of the OTC Racing Jack. I have the OTC one, I wouldn't trust the Harbor Freight jack to last very long.

If you are a very light user it will be an ok product. My bf is a hobby mechanic and he's won't even entertain the idea of this jack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00336EN60/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is a really life long abuse taking truck lifting beast with safety features.

With that jack, you'll want a few hockey pucks, or custom jack adapters, to ensure that you don't damage the battery pack. There are specific jack points that you need to use (denoted by circular holes along the edge of the battery pack) to avoid damaging the pack.