Reddit mentions: The best jacks

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.

Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.

I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).

Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.

I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!

Typically jacking up a car isn't a hard thing to figure out :).

We will use the driver (left side) of the car and the front tire for this example. Along the side of the car where you open your door there is typically a piece of metal that is extremely hard, it is typically directly under the sideskirt - on my car there is an arrow on the sideskirt that indicates where the metal is.

If you get down and look under almost any car nowadays you will see this protruding piece of metal, it will ALWAYS be behind the front tires and infront of the rear tires). That is where you place the jack and jackup the car. The metal piece itself is about 3 inches long and about a 1/2 inch thick.

Example can be seen here - the jack that is being used is what most cars will have in it - they are halfjacks, aka they are not full sized jacks.

To jackup a car to say... fix the rear brake pads (replacing them) you'd want a full size jack (which CAN fit in a cars trunk...just takes up a good bit of space haha). Full size jack can be seen here.

Now as for jacking up a car with a full size jack? Also easy! You just look under the car again (front or rear of the car whichever end you are jacking up) and find the metal point on the car designed for it, every car can be different but most are very similar. For my Scion? it is a metal hook under the rear of the car and the front is just a piece of metal like the sides of the car have. Your cars owner manual MAY tell you were the jack location is, or it may not. Youtube and Google have the answers in this case :)

Rear of my car jacked up while I replace the rear brake pads as they seized up on me completely and need replacing, they are also 10 years old haha.

Jacking up a car is something no one wants to do, but it is quite easy to do :) just make sure you don't jackup on something that isn't designed for it...like the oil pan D: that would be bad. I recommend getting someone who has done it before to show you the proper placement of the jack OR google it :) tons of videos and the like for this type of stuff out there.

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories

And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS

Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1

There may not really be a "best". Just different options and their pros and cons may change depending on the work you want to do, the space you have to do it in and the bike you are working on.

1. Front and rear stands sometimes refered to as race stands, paddock stands. The typically talked about versions lift on the swing arm, spools for the rear stand and the fronts typically lift off the underside of the front forks. They work well and are small to store when not in use their small size leaves a lot of room around the bike for your work area. Their drawback is that for work like you want to do the front stand is in the way of the forks and the weight is still on them.
   
   There is a version of the front stand that lifts off the center of the triple tree steering stem. This solves the problem of standard front stands supporting the weight of the bike on the forks. You do however need the steering stem to be hollow or at least drilled for the peg of the stand to fit into it. u/TacticoolCanadian links a hybrid stand that does both lifting options.
   
   
2. The lift you have labeled as "1" in your image. These lift the bike from the bottom. You need a fairly flat lifting point under the bike and that point has to be designed to take the weight of the bike. So for example 2 parallel frame tubes. Some shimming is often needed to clear the engine and trans case. People use rubber pads, plastic blocks or wood often bolted to the lift to sort it out. The bike should be ratchet strapped down to make it stable. The big pros here they are usually pretty inexpensive and can be found often on craigslist. They get the bike up higher allowing you to sit on a stool. Both wheels can be in the air at the same time and the bike "can" be rolled around out of the way when not being worked on if one take some care and goes slow. Cons, stability. They can straight up seem sketchy as hell as the bike is supported on the narrow footprint, strapped down it isn't much of a worry but it will get most first time users worried.
   
   
3. Lift tables. The obvious pro is that it gets the bike up to a higher working level where you can stand. However this is really just raising the ground, you still need a way to lift the bike to get the wheels off the table. The industry standard is a flat jack. Plug for the K&L, they are very durable and will out last 2 of the cheaper knock offs. The knock offs don't feel as solid but at 1/4 the price last about 1/3-1/2 as long if cared for by greasing the screw threads. Both options have adapters to allow one to come up with ways to get lifting points under various bikes.
   
   Strap the bike down appropriately for the end you need to lift. I'm not a wheel chock or wheel vise fan(the one on the Harbor Frieght table in your image is next to useless). I find them annoying and in the way anytime you need to work on the front wheel/suspension. Most all of the mechanics I have worked with over the years have eventually gone to just a angle iron/aluminum stop held in with 2 nuts and bolts finger tight. When I need to pull the front wheel I slide a section of angle under the rear wheel as a stop, add some tie downs to the rear of the bike and slowly release the front tie downs. To save on jacking the front wheel over the height of the stop on the table, remove one of the 2 bolts holding it and pivot it out of the way.
   
   Tables take up a lot of room and can make life easy. In 25 years I've never lost a bike on a table. I know guys who have when mistakes were made. It's much can cause much more damage than a low to the ground tip over off a set of stands. Most DIY home users I see have the most trouble with loading a bike on a table and getting it strapped down trying to do it single handedly. They go for the slow walk up trying to keep the bike vertical and loose too much momentum and can't get the bikes back wheel up the ramp and will try to power through it sometimes getting off balance and the bike falling away from them. Both are easily solved by letting the bike lean into you so it doesn't go over center and pull away from you. The other time is once they get the bike up on it they have to fumble around with holding the bike and strapping it down. This is where some like the self supporting wheel chocks to roll the bike into. Being alone I've found the easiest is to just have a place to set the bike down on the side stand or get it up on the center stand if it has one. I use a platform of two 4x6s and a 2x14 as a table next to the lift to set the bike on the side stand. If you have a Handy lift or the like with wing extensions you don't likely need anything. From there it's just like strapping it down in a trailer.
   
   
   There are a ton of options for DIY jacks, lifts and tables out there too.
   
   Take a look at www.homemadetools.net/site/search?q=Motorcycle+Lifts&Search=
   
   One of my favorite that can be done cheap is to simply extend one of the motorcycle lift jacks to turn it into a table. I've thought about doing this to add a 2nd part time lift in the garage here at home.

Honestly, I'd just pay the extra $800 and get this one. Or if you've got money to burn and want a really nice flush-mount option, there's this one

It has auto-safety locks every 3 inches, and the hydraulic system is integrated into one of the posts, so there are a lot less exposed lines for potential damage.

The only benefit I see with the one OP has is A) it's cheap B) it's "portable".

But honestly, who's going to be moving a lift like this around every day, and do you really want to cheap out on two of the most important safety and convenience features?

I didnt have to since as the G2 Kit uses paint brush, so I just painted around it since it’s all about the aesthetics.

I used the adapters i bought from Amazon

Seven Sparta Jack Lift Pad for Tesla Model 3, 4PCS Jack Point Pad Sturdy Adapter Protects Battery & Paint for Using with a Floor Jack, Jack Lift Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXXVD9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7q4tDbMK9X0ZE


Jackstands like these and took the stick out and put the adapters on top of it. Make sure when you lower the car with a Jack, to Jack it down very slowly because the adapters can get out of place. Be VERY VERY careful hahah.

Pro-LifT T-6902 Grey Jack Stand - 2 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ws4tDbAVV9ZWN

I applied clear coat before applying the decal and then applied clear coat on the decal, so it can have the extra layer to cover it with 2 coats.

Do yourself a favor and get a motorycyle lift. A damn good investment, I assure you. Makes cleaning and maintenance much,much easier. Especially cleaning and lubing the chain.

Having the bike lifted of the ground would be great for winter time storage, as well, as it will take pressure of the suspension and tires; allowing you to avoid getting flat spots on the tires from sitting for a long time.

Plus, bikes looks cool af on a lift.

Maybe the stock cooler is decent on a workstation, but on a gaming build with a decent GPU, it's just okay. I've got one of these in my main gaming rig and it dropped my temps something like 12-15c. On my desktop I have a Hyper T4 and it never goes above 53c. With that arctic cooler my gaming rig can go to 4.3GHz on my 6490k at something like 68-72c. You're not doing that with a stock cooler, it's already gonna be at 67-68c at stock clocks.

Neither cooler is $45, they're both sub-$25. Same thing with the jack on the car. It's cheap. Why do you want to potentially risk your life lifting a car on a flimsy default jack like this or this when something like this one is $30.

Two things I'd reccomend.

1. use quality jackstands. A jack can leak and fail, don't trust your life to them.
   
   
2. the Tesla is heavier than a normal car of the same size, don't buy under a 3ton jack. I would most likely jack up with a single point and lower it onto stands to do the roto. (see edits below, as i don't want to deviate too far from what the MFG suggests in regards to lift point warnings)
   
   Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
   
   
   Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
   
   
   E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
   
   E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
   
   These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
   
   It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.

I live in a 1br in a walk up as well. KangarooCornchips pretty well covered it although I just stick with one good torque wrench, a big adjustable, a cheap Stanley socket set, vice grip, and a flip out hex and torx set. A good JIS screwdriver would be useful too.
Don’t forget there should be a cheap oem toolkit stashed somewhere on the bike, not that it’s enough.

The only thing directly motorcycle related I’ve needed was a cheap jack similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-Motorcycle-Center-Scissor-Hoist/dp/B01NCT4IKW/
It’s not too heavy to haul downstairs although it is annoying

I’ve been able to do everything from valve clearances to swingarm replacements in my complex’s covered parking lot. The only problem is running back and forth for all the bulky peripheral things like cans of penetrating fluid or degreaser or an oil jug.

I went to Big O tires and brought jack pads. They were more than willing to learn how to lift it.

Might as well buy a set if you are going to get tires changed. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHGM9BP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ngb9BbXKS0JG6 need 4 of them. Or if you have a 3D printer you can make some with hockey pucks super easy.

OP update: thanks for all of your comments and suggestions. SC performed a diagnostic this morning and gave the battery pack a clean bill of health. It's also worth noting that they originally quoted me $175 CDN to perform the diagnostic and ultimately did the work for free.
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/LbHWTa7

PS. ordered these yesterday https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07S51TLVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cd8IDb4BRJ1S7

Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.

There is an arrow on the side for where to jack on the pinch weld.

I use these for supporting the pinch (0.39"): Jack Pad Pinch Weld Puck

I also use a Harbor Freight Jack and that works pretty well, especially for the price: 1.5 Ton Jack

In regards to where to place your jack points, there is a solid diagram to show you where to place your jack and stands: Diagram

No kidding. I was amazed when I found out that you can get one of these for like $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerzone-380033-Steel-Floor-Jack/dp/B003UM42J0/ref=sr_1_6/191-5799343-8330658?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656029&sr=8-6&keywords=car+jack

Or you can do things the easy way and get a couple of these if you just want under the car...not so great for changing a tire.

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Capacity/dp/B006EGAIII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406656071&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+ramps

I've got this (Extreme Max Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPQEzbC5ZMP4Q). It's been pretty useful for chain stuff and other work I've done on the bike.

However, I got a Triumph center stand from a neighbor for cheap, so the jack doesn't get much use anymore. I'm on a bonneville, but I'd recommend a center stand to anyone. It's very convenient.

I've taken my 390 engine out like 5 times with a scissor lift from Amazon that was like $70 bucks, it's rated up to like 1000lbs or something

Edit: Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dV3PCbWV6FQBJ

My father got a Craftsman version of this lift: https://www.amazon.com/PowerZone-380047-1700-Hydraulic-Motorcycle/dp/B003UM9GDM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=atv+lift&qid=1554752971&s=gateway&sr=8-3 It works really well for getting it off the ground. It doesn't work well for oil changes, but great for getting the rear wheel out.

This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)


Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.


Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.

Center stand

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5047-Motorcycle-Scissors/dp/B0196PAYP0/ref=sr_1_6?gclid=CjwKCAiAh5_uBRA5EiwASW3IasIMFnQo804LL3aB58Yweypspqprui5NqOiEkxn20Mir9FRR-Q6fDxoCs8kQAvD_BwE&hvadid=241914105244&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9032437&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14079434640772928100&hvtargid=kwd-1194916088&hydadcr=24631_10399647&keywords=motorcycle+scissor+jack&qid=1573447187&sr=8-6

$70 bucks now will save you hundreds in shop fees. From changing your oil to pulling your tire to get it changed.

An oil change in your garage using HD supplied oil might run you $35 for oil/filter

And get yourself a shop manual. There is so much you can do on your own with some basic hand tools!

I'll spare you the long rundown and assume you're aware of the dangers of a Hi-lift jack. Long story short, they can be awesome, or awesomely dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing (people have died). That said, if you still want one, and you really want to blow his mind, then there are a couple "musts", such as:

1. Don't buy an offbrand.
   
   
2. The 48" Hi-Lift Extreme jack fits really nicely in the back of the 3rd Gen.
   
   
3. You absolutely have to buy tie downs or a mounting system for it; otherwise it becomes insanely dangerous in an accident. A guy on the T4R website makes amazing mounts that beautifully fit a 48" hijack mount across the back (check it out here)
   
   Source: I also own a lifted 1999 4Runner on 32"s

I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments

I've got the big heavy expensive one from sears in the garage along with a couple of $20 walmart specials. Honestly I use the walmart specials 9 times out of 10 because they are so light and easy to grab.

With that in mind I'd look for something aluminum and light weight. 3ton is still going to be heavy but you can get [this one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM) that's about half the weight of a standard steel one like this one.

You can also use an easy roller, something tow trucker driver use to pull a car out of tight spot or garages use to move cars around easy. One guy could have used 4 of em but there like 100 dollars a pop at least. Maybe he works in that industry?
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU

This is way better, albeit $65, it makes life easy. raise it up until its just below your bike frame, slide it under, crank it 10 times, and you're off the ground. easy peasy.

I bought this one off amazon and it has worked great. It’s compact and inexpensive.
Zeny 1100 LB Motorcycle Center Scissor Lift Jack Hoist Stand Bikes ATVs (#01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01860HLCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Vo3KRPVWIXCJz

As i said earlier: You are over thinking this. Google 2 ton jack and this is the result: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T82012-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack/dp/B0028JQYSS

You REALLY wanna trust that thing? Notice the one I linked earlier is a fullsize floor jack and the one I linked now is basically a last ditch effort type tool?

As I said earlier: The jack is ONLY lifting 1 corner or end at a time, thus not the entire curb weight of the vehicle.

The base is completely different, allowing for a much wider array of uses, as is the additional top jaw.

They do, however charge $149.55 for the 'conversion kit'

http://firstresponder.hi-lift.com/resources/First_Responder_Conversion_Kit_Flyer.pdf

This is a better comparison:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464054291&sr=1-1&keywords=hi-lift+xtreme

where it has the additional top jaw, at that point it's $100 for paint, stickers and a base.

Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)

Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.

I would like to start changing the oil on my car (potentially on my parent's too) so does anyone have the link to that floor jack post from a couple days ago, if there was one? I have a 2000 Celica GTS, if you want to recommend anything here. I was thinking this with these jack stands, but that jack is expensive for me. I just don't want to have a car on my face.

Also, what are some other jack points/ jack stand positions other than the ones on the side of the car for the scissor jack?

Not sure how that would work. How would you lift the bike onto the stands? Lifts are relatively low cost and you can get a dedicated one at Harbor Freight or use what I use which is a simple scissor jack. You can certainly get the scissor jack for cheaper since they're quite common. Also check a local auto parts store to see if they have loaner/rental of jacks.

you can replace your friends with http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O1E4WU/

I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Emergency jack isn't the safest thing to do it with.

You can buy a $25 jack and be much easier and safer to work with.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T82012-Hydraulic-Trolley-Jack/dp/B0028JQYSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427251005&sr=8-1&keywords=car+jack

I actually think this is a great idea. Maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017T7WHW

Something like this works fairly well... it's basically a 3/4" hex wrench that fits snugly over the jack:

https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511197626&sr=8-1&keywords=scissor+jack+socket

The lugs are the same size(21mm) and the jack will work, the Prius hasn't gotten much heavier in the past few years. So any tire iron that's 21mm will work, and any jack that is rated to lift 3100lb will work.

However if I had a chance, I would get an aftermarket jack that will be more reliable than the stock ones. This looks like a good option. Hell, put that together with this wrench and you'll be set. Can't get much cheaper than $30 for this stuff.

> In that case, then the only way he could have moved it was with a tow truck, like this

This is not true. Could have been done with 4 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-1580-Stinger-Roller/dp/B000O1E4WU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mush3hNbnmY

They sell a floor jack at Costco from Arcan for $100.

This is it or similar ($249 on Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-ALJ3T-Aluminum-Floor-Jack/dp/B0047D2FWM

I consider a jack a safety item which is not something to skimp on. That said, you don't have to blow the bank either.

Costco doesn't always have the jack in stock but Arcan jacks usually last a long, long time.

Remember, they are just stabilizers, not jacks. They just help take out some of the bounce. You can pick up a bit for your drill so you can use a cordless drill for raising and lowering.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Scissor-Adapter-57363/dp/B001V8U12M/

Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5

Oh shit, I read scissor Jack, not Lift. Never mind...;-). Here’s a 7K one,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4MKM4/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_w9RVAbBCDXHBV

Worth joining the Prime Membership to get the free shipping.

Torin T10152 Big Red Steel Scissor Jack, 1.5 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PX8BC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5puzbYSS6Q5W


This'll'do'er

Floor jack + tire skates = relocating his car to the very furthest parking space in the lot in less than 5 minutes.

Or buy an adapter... https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-Protects-Individually-Purchase-Professional/dp/B07GHGM9BP

https://www.amazon.com/Seven-Sparta-Adapter-Protects-Battery/dp/B07QXXVD9Y

wheel dollies...greatest prank tool ever

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1580-Stinger-Roller-Dolly/dp/B000O1E4WU

edit:

since a lot of folks apparently aren't familiar with how these things operate:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=i5evHL7jtTM#t=86s

Extreme Max 5001.5044 5001.5044... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Had this one for years and no issues with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UM9GDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really do want the swingarm to be unsupported to properly adjust the chain.

I recommend getting a motorcycle jack. It's basically a cradle that gets the wheels off the ground.

Here's an example of one from Amazon.

Kyle from SeaCoast is in this great video on adjusting the chain on a SSS Ducati. He really knows his stuff.

Ducati Single sided swingarm chain adjustment.

Here's Chris from California Cycleworks as well.


But yes, you can use a floor jack. I'd put a block of wood or something between the jack and the cases so you don't scratch anything, though. You might have some issues with the exhaust header but ideally you'll have the front chocked or on a stand and then put the floor jack under the motor to get the rear wheel off the ground. You don't need much height.

Very doable. Make sure you follow the chain adjustment procedure from the videos! You can chew up a chain and cause damage to your sprockets and possibly your cases if the chain ends up too tight or too loose.