Reddit mentions: The best tarps & tie-downs

• Bone Sponge: Much cheaper and more convinent than a pump (although pumps are nice)
  
• Gorrillapod Hybrid: It's a flexible camera mount that lets you take stable video from the bow of your boat.
  
• Half-skirt: Block sun/splashes without the hassle of a full-skirt.
  
• Wide Brimmed Hat: Must have to block sun.
  
• Aquatic footwear: Great for portages. REI has good selection. My favorite: http://www.nrs.com/product/30034.03/nrs-mens-paddle-wetshoe
  
• Proper Paddle: Correctly sized, light-weight and with a narrow scoop...a proper paddle can make a big difference.
  
• Proper Life Jacket: Your typical jacket is too constrictive on the shoulders. Here is an affordable yak jacket for women: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LJRPN4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Camera Case: Or better yet, a water-proof camera wrap...or better yet a water-proof camera like the Nikon AW130.
  
• Lenspen: Great for cleaning camera lens from a boat.
  
• Local Water Trail Guides: Great way for her to find new water trails to explore.
  
• Rope Ratchet: Terrific tie-down option for the front/back of the boat on a car. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P3B4A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Hydroskin: Great for cool weather paddling...good alternative to wetsuites for fall/spring paddles.
  
• Summer Sunblocking Shirts: They make long sleeve shirts designed to be worn in warm weather so you don't have to mess with sunscreen lotion. REI has good brands. Here is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNNSVEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)

What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html

Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.

As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle

For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket

Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It actually can make a difference. The cool air flow will be directed towards you and less will be lost into the rest of the room. The cool air will tend to diffuse quickly with the rest of the air in your living space, so limiting it's ability to do that will increase the cooling efficiency by keeping the cool air where it's going to do the most good (directly around your body). Simple sheets will do little more than direct airflow past you and around into the rest of the room. If you want to get really fancy with it, or simply explore the practicalities of airflow, you can set up painter's tarp/dropcloth to partition your maximum cooling area off. The smaller the space, the quicker and more efficiently it will cool. If you were to set up something like a Zipwall, you'd be able to create a customized, nearly perfect little space that would allow you excellent control over climate. If you don't want to spend that much then taping up simple plastic sheeting and installing a zipper lock will do the same thing. You'd want to leave the zipper lock a bit open so that the air flowing into the space from your AC unit could exhaust out into the rest of your apartment. Basically doing this saves the coldest air for your smaller space and the rest of your apartment gets secondary cooling from the air that trickles out.

Bonus points if you set this up and hang some insulation next to the plastic sheets for privacy and extra cold times.

No clue if this is going to be helpful, but I agree that those clamps will rust if they live outside and I'd like to provide some ideas from a campers perspective, as we like hanging tarps. All of these options need some small rope/paracord/bungeecord/whatever and something like an stainless eyelet screwed into the post, though they end up being simpler mechanically and easier to adjust.

1. Try to find a blanket with corner ties. I don't know if they have another name but they look like the tassle things on poncho liners.
   
   
2. Generally only tarps (not picnic blankets) have grommets but its something to think about. You can even buy grommets on their own and sew them into the blanket of your choosing if you are handy with a sewing machine. High end camping tarps like this aren't like the ones at walmart and have reinforced corners, often with D-Rings. Not cheap though. If you like stuff like this there is other fancy hardware from Dutchware that make stringing it up easier.
   
   
3. Low tech and versatile, you can use the method campers use to string up a tarp when the corner rips out. Get a small round object (a rock or something) place it into the fabric from one side and tie a knot around it from the other, it will look like this
   
   
4. Last one doesn't have traction in camping that I know of and I've never used them before, but something like these clamps might be worth a shot for the price.
   
   Edit: fixed the last link
   
   
   Good luck!

I've thought about an awning for a while now and as the first summer with the doggo approaches I figured we should have some supplemental shade for our adventure. Not yet sure if I want an ARB-type awning mounted full time to the van, or a standalone awning, I settled on the $25 setup from Walmart for our long weekend trip to Jackson Hole

Shopping list:

• 1 6'x'8' Heavy Duty Tarp ($7)
  
• 2 x painter 4'-8' painter extension pole ($10 total). You could use a fix length pole but this is nice to adjust should conditions merit
  
• 12-pack of Tarp ball bungees ($4 -- but I only need 2-4 depending on setup)
  
• ~40' of 550# paracord ($4). I like bright easy-to-see orange so we don't trip over the guy lines too much. Just cut to length and tie a tautline hitch. Once tied you can leave them for quickening setup.
  
• 4 decent tent stakes ($3.50)
  
  In order to quicken setup (but reduce a bit of flexibility in setup) I've done the following.
  
  
• Zip tied the painters poles to the 2nd grommet from the end. They still roll up easily.
  
• Tied on guy-lines to both the 2nd grommet from the corner, and the corner grommets. This means I just need to push in stakes and tighten.
  
• I went with an 6'x8' tarp just because that fit nicely on my roof rack. If you don't have a rack or want optional mounting spots (I'd like to move mine about 1.5' towards the front) some heavy duty suction cups should work.
  
  Trip reports to come.
  
  EDIT: Worked great in winds up to about 25mph. Will nee more trips for further reports.

I've seen a similar problem before and I think you'll be just fine. The top two clips may not fully close but it is not the end of the world as long as the clip "eyelets" are resting flush on the rack. First, I would make sure the bottom adjustable arm is adjusted to where it will prevent the bag from moving upward. Then I would get something like this. I would test different sizes to find one that doesn't put too much pressure (or friction) on the pannier, but enough to prevent it from moving too much on bumps. It may not look pretty, but touring is not for the narcissistic. I would definitely test your set-up on several shorter 1-2 day rides to make sure no friction is occurring which might tear up your panniers and that (most importantly) the panniers won't pop off the rack frame or slide around. Though this is just good protocol with any new gear.

Regardless if you go this route or not - DO NOT CUT your RackTime rack. It is tubular aluminum so it won't rust, but it also is a lot weaker than steel. If you cut it, you could really jeopardize the integrity of the rack (which is probably rated at a little over 50-60lbs as is), and set yourself up for a catastrophic touring accident. Given the money you spent on those nice panniers, I HIGHLY suggest supplementing them with a Surly Nice Rack up front. It's steel...and it's heavy(er)...but it will fit the Ortleibs very comfortably and will last a lifetime. I have two Ortleib FrontRoller Classics on a Surly Nice rack in the front and and works great!!!

My one bag at home experiment preparations so far yields 2 things a must-have:

1. A good clothes line with solid attachment ends with built in hangers, fully adjustable and super lightweight.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUM8D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. A dry bag size 4-10L that serves multiple purposes ie. to keep water out for like electronics when needed, to hold dirty laundry that needs to be washed, and most importantly: To hand wash your clothes in. Please fellow one baggers, let us reconsider washing our clothes in a sink. Washing in dry sack is far more superior and hygienic, and can just flip inside out to wipe dry after use. So easy! And adds mere ounces to your overall carry.
   https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Research-Ultralight-Alloy-10-Liter/dp/B00ATNIGKO/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504905265&sr=1-1&keywords=dry%2Bbag%2Boutdoor%2Bresearch&th=1&psc=1

My budgies' favorite toy is actually a "tree" http://imgur.com/a/ad2Bt - this is a tree and stand that I built. Eventually I went on to paint it and add caster wheels. The branch is nearly 6 feet tall, so they get some good vantage points of the room at the top. You don't have to add much at all to the tree/branch stand, it is already enjoyable for them to play with the little wispy branches while they hang sideways or upside-down.

1. Find a source for a good sized branch
   
   
2. make sure it is bird safe (http://www.mdvaden.com/bird_page.shtml) and properly clean/prepare branch (instructions in link).
   
   
3. build a shallow bin or open box and mount branch to a reinforced plate, mount plate and branch to stand base box.
   
   
4. watch your birds explore the branch.
   
   The above option works great for small branches: install a hanger bolt into a branch and fasten it to the side of the cage with large stainless fender washers and thumb screw.
   
   Sisal rope, specifically oil-free & untreated: http://www.amazon.com/T-W-Evans-Cordage-23-210-100-Feet/dp/B000W9QHGA/ref=sr_1_1
   
   You can hang something like a coconut half or make a climbing net (http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=310382.0) out of it. Even a two inch section can be fun for the little guys to chew on.
   
   Speaking of coconut half, if you have been to pet smart then you have seen a coconut 'hut' with two opposing halves tied with three ropes. Coconuts can be bought for $2 -3 at the grocery store. I built one myself and I am quite pleased, my budgies are more willing to try new foods that I put in it.
   
   Poplar can be found cheaply in manageable thickness at the hardware store in the form of trim board. It can be perfect for replacing missing wood from a hanging chain toy.
   
   I just recently re-purposed a swing on chain toy with coffee stirrers, zip ties, and bamboo skewers. I cut 15 stirrers in half and zip tied them together so they spread out in a ball pattern which was then attached at the end of a chain.
   
   Balsa wood can make great cannon fodder against small beaks. If you cross cut "chips" it might have the same effect as yucca chips, but at a fraction of the cost.
   
   Poplar Dowels: Most dowels at the hardware store are poplar, but always safe to check.

If you want to walk from one end of the ship to the other quickly, use the hallways on a passenger cabin deck, not the crowded main hallways where the casino/restaurants are located, or the crowded sun deck. Don't run though. Somebody's bound to be sleeping.


For a Caribbean vacation, bring more than one swimsuit. Bring an extra clothesline to hang wet clothes from. This is what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-0433-Adjustable-Bungee-Clothesline/dp/B000NUM8D4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494271465&sr=8-5&keywords=travel+clothesline


Shore excursions cost a lot more if you purchase them from the cruise line. The extra peace of mind might be worth it, though.


Book dining well in advance if you want to eat at normal hours.


I signed up for a meet up for the first day of our cruise on Cruisecritic.com. Good way to meet other people.


Congratulations and best wishes!

First, do it now, while its not to hot/cold. running cable in the attic in the summer sucks. you kinda need 2+ people to run cable. it can be done solo, but that brings in so many more complications, beer for buddy. so yeah, like /u/xmangusx said, you don't want electronics up in the attic, top of a closet should be ok, somewhere a little more climate controlled. i haven't run cable in residential in a long time, but did do up a new floor of a building, and work at a datacenter, so take the numbers as a rough guide.
even if you think you want just 1 jack in each spot, run 4 cables to each room. alot easier to run a bundle of four now, then to go back and add in cabling later, even if you just let the bare end dangle behind the drywall. below is some suggested parts:
1000FT Cat 6 Bulk Bare Copper ethernet cable

4 hole keystone wall plate

cat6 punchdowns

keystone blank plates

electrical box

punchdown tool

network cable tester

24port patch panel will work in 19inch rack

wire line puller

pull string

so 1 blue box, 1 wall plate, a few blanks ( as desired # of ports) per room. start in somewhere a little less important like say the laundry room, or a closet, so you can get a hang of using the drywall knife to cut the hole, how big it needs to be etc. you will want to be near ( but not to close give liek 6 inches) to an electrical outlet if you can. use a studfinder, it should be where the electrical outlet is ( which side is the box on). find where the electrical cable comes through the 2x4, move over enough to account for stud width plus a little fudge factor, and drill a small hole, maybe 1/4 inch, just big enough to get the end of the fish line through. cut small hole in drywall near the electrical outlet ( opposite the stud) start with maybe 2 inch by 2 inch, will need to be bigger later for the box. run the fish down from attic through the stud hole you drilled, behind the drywall, and find it in the small hole cut. attach pull string to it, and pull it back, and keep pulling the pull string all the way back to central location. repeat till have all holes cut, lines run. now you will have a pretty good idea if you will need 1 or more cat6 1000ft spindles.

the hard part is going to be getting around in the attic, and simply finding a way to get from point a to be with the cable, creative use of a drill bit will be necessary. the punchdown blocks that go into the plates are color codes, do all A or B throughout the house, don't mix-n-match ( B is more common ), and is color coded. only will need a crimper, ends, is if you want to custom make the cables going from patch panel to switch, hint just buy 20 or whatever of appropriate length cables premade from monoprice, like $1 each.
expect 2 people who have never done this before, this to take more than 1 weekend.

I hate socket rails.

The new sockets are so tight you need pliers to get them off, and will probably break the rail, but the heavily used sockets fall off.

Plus they dont fit in a tool box nicely because you need a ton of them.

It only holds 10 while a normal set is 13 sockets....so 3 random sockets are left to roll around the drawer but thats 3 from the normal set, 3 from the deep set, 3 from the impact set, 3 from the sae set, and 3 from the sae deep set.

Plus it doesnt travel well. Now they take twice the space and all fall off anyway.

/rant sorry I just wish there was a better solution.

Honestly I have given up and use the reusable twist ties. Just toss them on (usually in order) then twist the end so they stay. Have to take them all off but at least it is easy and quick

I keep a Doan bar in my fire kit (along with a LOT of other things) as a backup to my Ferro rod, because the Magnesium shavings will light even if they're wet. However, they're useless unless you can put together a good tinder bundle.

If I were you, since you're starting out practicing in your backyard, I'd get:

• The Mora

• A good Ferro rod, like a Light My Fire or a Firesteel Armageddon (my favorite and what I use)

• And some Jute Twine.

Learn how to carve feather sticks and focus on getting fires started with natural materials and a ferro rod, as well as fluffing up the Jute Twine for making tinder bundles.

Also, use the Jute Twine to practice tying useful knots that will come in handy for setting up your tarp later.

I'd get the tarp and some paracord next and practice setting that up.

I'd save money and get the canteen and cook kit once you're actually ready to go out and use them.

I use a 150-lb capacity ratchet tie down. It also comes in a 250-lb capacity version for $3 more. More compound pulley systems are unnecessary as the body weight of even the slightest brewers should be able to lift most mashes.

I hook the pulley part to my fixed point (a ladder in my case) and the tag end of the rope that has the hook attached to my bag. Pull the other end of the rope to lift. Bag will not lower until I simultaneously pull onrope and press the release.

After mashing 1 lb of dry barley malt, it weighs about 1.2 lbs fully drained but I estimate about 4 lb of force is needed initially to lift it when waterlogged. Adding a 50% margin of safety, the 150-lb ratchet allows me do a 18.75-lb mash (and 37.5 lb without the extra 50% safety margin).

Obviously, it is equally important that your attachment point can also safely handle 150 or 250 lb. Use a lag bolt through the joist or wrap strong rope around the joist and use only rated hooks and carabiners. Beware of “decorative” carabiners!

Could you get someone to sew some pannier bags for you? I'm pretty sure their are DIY patterns out there and I've heard it's super cheap to get clothes and bags custom made there (could have heard wrong)

I wouldn't recommend welding a metal box unless you've tried every other option because for sure there would be drawbacks with that.

Just in the meantime, can you get hold of a bungee net like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Helmets-Bungee-Cord-Cargo/dp/B001RBQF4G

If so you could probably put your current backpack on top of the rack and strap it down with the bungee net.

I don't know about cruiser bikes, they are very heavy and slow, not much good if there's any hills around. I'd way rather adjust another kind of bike to the sort of ride position I want. If you really want to change the handlebar position there are more drastic options that haven't been mentioned for bringing it higher or closer (swept back trekking handlebars, stem extender).

A regular MTB is maybe not the best choice for commuting (though you can do worse), but something like the Giant ARX 2 works better and is what I would recommend if you aren't doing extreme offroad riding: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/arx-2

No problem! :)

Oh and just a few things to add:

Watch some videos on how to set up hammock and tarps. shugmery is an old youtuber who's an entertainer by trade, so he makes fun upbeat videos that aren't boring to watch.

Also in case you forget the knots that you learn to get the tarp to stay in place on the ridgeline (that one line to hang the tarp that goes from tree A to tree B) get these really cheap tarp clips for $5: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6268-Tarp-Clips-4-Piece/dp/B00A50NB24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468442049&sr=8-1&keywords=tarp+clip

You can have the tarp in diamond/triangle formation, two ends secured to the ground (with pegs that come with all tarp purchases for free), and then the two ends that are hanging on the line you can just clip in place with the clips (which uses screws to tighten, not merely by clipping).

Be sure to bring cordage, which I assume you have, if not you can get 50 feet for like $5, or 100 feet for $10: https://www.amazon.com/Paracord-Planet-Mil-Spec-Commercial-Orange/dp/B00ACL4KJO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1468442435&sr=1-2&keywords=paracord

DO NOT get 25 feet, because they still charge you $5 like for 50 feet, lol.

Sorry to add about $15 to your budget :)

Sounds like its shaping up to be a sweet garden. Sea of green methods definitely kick butt, especially combined with ebb and flow? Once that is dialed in you'll get some beast crops. Yeah if you can get what you need with panda film and save space not making walls then that would be good. My garden uses dry wall but i've seen some pretty sturdy and quality panda film spaces.

Having a door is nice! You don't want a flap but does that mean you don't want a zipper door in the panda film?

You should look up some bondage techniques and tying guides before you get started so you know how to properly secure your partner without cutting off circulation. You should also look at the different restraints available.

Personally, I prefer cotton rope as it feels comfortable on my skin and it's easily accessible at most online retailers and sex shops. However, many prefer hemp rope as it's more durable than cotton.

Handcuffs and other restraints can be used as well, and they're usually the best for beginners as they don't take a lot of effort to put on and take off. I suggest looking at these options and see what you and your gf would prefer for a good experience.

1 Cake or birthday related - technically cake pans.

2 Simon Pegg - he was an English major with an emphasis in drama, this is a play.

3 A book I'm eager to read

4 Eating Utensils - for my cat.

5 Animal

6 Purple

7 a game

8 a guilty pleasure

9 a tool - caffeine is a tool i use to keep awake.

10 Something from my childhood

11 an organizational item

12 a hobby - one of hobbies is making bathbombs. i would use this to make them in pretty shapes

13 nerdy/geeky

14 something natural

15 something green - the cover of this book is green

16 something you wear

17 funny

18 Beads, bees, or beans - honeycomb shaped

19 Gardening - lavender grows in gardens

20 My absolute favorite item on my wishlist

Happy happy cake day

Fellow Titan DX owner here.

I've got mine guyed at three points with some camming rope tighteners and some 10" plastic ground stakes, both are readily available from your local home improvement store. It works perfectly and keeps it well supported in the strongest winds.

I recommend their quick tilt ground mount if you want to be able to raise and lower the antenna easily. Combined with those quick release rope tighteners, you can go from having the antenna folded down on the ground to raised and guyed inside of a minute of two.

If you're of reasonable fitness and pick a calm day to do it, the antenna can be unbolted from its mast and lowered by one person. It's not a particularly sketchy operation. The antenna only weighs about 20 pounds or so, you just need to keep it from whacking against the ground when you let it down.

Yep, it's about continuous usage, but also keep in mind that articles with suggested time limits for nipple clamps always seem to err on the safe side by an extreme margin. I've had clover clamps on for 1hr+. It was fine.

People's bodies are going to react differently, and also different types of clamps will cut off circulation at very different rates (i.e. these vs. these vs. these vs. these [NSFW], etc.)

Just take them off if you're turning purple or becoming numb; don't worry too much about specific time limits. Honestly I've never heard of someone getting injured from using nipple clamps for too long. In the grand scheme of BDSM safety concerns, it's pretty low on the list.

It's just 3/4" webbing with a plastic buckle. You can find the webbing and buckles at something like Joanne's Fabric or Michaels and make your own (if you can sew). If not find someone to sew it for you, won't take more than 5 minutes.

Just a note about the buckle; the original has a clamp lock so it doesn't move. If you just use a buckle on it's own, it will tend to loosen when it rides over a hard edge like the leg of a tripod. If you can't find a clamp lock buckle, you'll also need a "slide" which will keep the buckle from slipping. If you can't sew, you can actually use two "slides", one on each side, but it does make adjusting a little more difficult.

You should be able to find accessory straps at a camping gear shop. Velcro straps may work, a thin belt would also work if you have a spare and cut it down. You could just thread some cord and tie it off every time.

Rubber twist ties may be the easiest solution.

Good luck!

I wanted to post an alternative to the wicking materials they are using but I am too new a member to ECF and the powers that be will not allow it, whatever... I thought the thread was so awesomely educational. They did miss a big one though. Why did no one think of using cotton butcher twine instead of candle wick or gauze? Seems like an obvious wicking material to me. I do like to cook so I use it quite a bit and it can take massive amounts of heat without burning and it is 100% natural cotton no bleaching, dyes, or anything other than cotton for that matter. Also it looks like the perfect diameter and if it's not it's only twisted so it's easy to add strands or remove them. $5.54 for 184 feet: http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Butchers-Twine-185-feet/dp/B000I1WNV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343885999&sr=8-1&keywords=cotton+butcher%27s+twine

I totally know the struggle!

One option is to use reusable rubber gear ties to secure the front wheel to the downtube. This way it won't pivot too much, and will stay mostly upright. You can then lean it against the wall without worrying about the front wheel.

As for locking up to a rack, I tend to pivot the wheel all the way in one direction and lean against the bike as I lock up the rear wheel/chain stay. Then it stays upright while I use a second U-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame or rack. Since you mentioned locking, I want to make sure you know proper locking technique. Having had a bike stolen, I know how important it is! I'd definitely recommend 2 U-locks to secure both wheels and the frame. If you don't know what I'm talking about, please feel free to ask any questions! (I just don't want to waste your time if you already know!)

In terms of wheeling it around the garage, I find that through time holding the handle bars and walking it, you figure out what works through trial and error.

I assume you mean a tarp like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053JX5SW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_d9ibvb0MPWERJ I have used these while car camping to cover my hammock. It worked great. These tarps are hard to manage and even when you get them folded perfectly they take up a lot of space. For backpacking a tarp made for a hammock is much smaller and lighter in your pack.

This is the line pull I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026TA6WK

along with this cable lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WTN3I0

Absolutely run the cables before committing the concrete. Also seal the PVC conduit joins with PVC cement, otherwise they will eventually become waterlogged. If you haven't already purchased the Cat6, I recommend shielded outdoor-rated direct-burial cable, like this.

I also suggest running some low-voltage cables along with the Cat6, so you can power external IR illuminators like these, which are way better than the IR LEDs in the cameras, and also avoid insects, fog, and dust from triggering motion alerts at night.

Good luck!

I recently got a similar bungee net off of Amazon for under $10 and it's been the best. My bike doesn't have any saddle bags so if I end up getting groceries it's perfect. It's also non intrusive when you don't need it.

http://amzn.com/B001RBQF4G
it's seems smaller in the picture than in real life.

Yep, why not? You can also construct a lot of your own bridges and climbing poles using pet friendly sisal rope. I use it throughout my whole enclosure. I make braids out of them and wrap everything and hang them on the wall. My babies love to climb them.

https://www.amazon.com/T-W-Evans-Cordage-23-210-100-Feet/dp/B000W9QHGA

Two 6 inch reusable Gear Ties. Super cool and many uses, besides being fun to have at your desk.

Yes, you got it... Anything that doesn't scream "remember how crappy I was at holding up your little stain glass thing ten years ago?" even if there is no actual engineering benefit. Something like this: Shells® Version 2 White 22LB Powerful Heavy Duty Vacuum Suction Cups Hooks Hangers Ideal For Home, Work And Travel-- 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MAZIG6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.4g1xbTCVCME5 or WUMN Accessories Suction Cup Soap Dish - Stainless Steel For Bathroom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNMMR20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V6g1xbJZ88850 or AIRHEAD AHSUP-A010 SUP Suction Cup Tie Downs (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JS1R3V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V5g1xb6TEK2NT

Nite-Ize Gear Ties are pretty good for fiddling, plus can be very handy.

Begleri are also a popular option on r/EDC.

Last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that with the straps, you'll want to twist them so that they don't make an awful buzzing sound!

I used to do a lot of craft shows up and down the east coast. I used the "ez-up" brand. Found they were sturdier than other off brands. Get the ones with the cross trusses underneath the canopy. They are not cheap, but nothing of good quality is.

For setting up in strong winds on dirt or grass areas, I used 4 dog tie down stakes, 4 black bungee cords like these, and 4 motorcycle tie down straps like these.

Loop a bungee cord around each canopy leg up high, connect one end of the motorcycle strap to the dog tie down and the other end to the bungee cord, and tighten. The bungee cords provide just a little bit of shock absorb give when winds are gusty. I've had my Ez-ups in 40+mph thunderstorm winds at craft shows. Everyone elses are blowing away.

I also had a set of (4) 4" PVC pipes filled with concrete with a hook on the end when I setup on concrete like a street or sidewalk. I'd attach one to the bottom of each leg using zip ties. Those held down the Ez-up in moderate winds.

Yup I have one. Super durable and no one will be able to steal my bike. I strap it onto the top of my rear rack with these Nite Ize tie down things which keep the huge lock super still and prevent it from banging around everywhere. Also much quieter.

It is quite heavy but the security is worth it for me for a $1200 ebike.

you should be able to do this pretty easily. just make sure you attach it really well in case you pull through a tight spot. nothing worse that a line coming free in the middle of a conduit somewhere. (former network installation tech) if you wanted to future proof it in case you need to add more lines later, get a roll of [fish line] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OW8GAbE743V36and) and pull that with the new cable.

EDIT: fixed link

For tie-downs, you'll likely need two straps on the sides and two tie-downs on the front/back and something underneath the kayak to hold it in place and not damage it/your vehicle.

For the front/back, you can get this one, which I just got as it has good reviews on Amazon and the ratcheting combined with the carabiners seemed good to me: http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Racks-SpeedLine-Ratchet-Tie-Downs/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463786146&sr=8-1&keywords=malone+tie+down

For the sides, I just got 2 of these from REI: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft

I also simply got just a couple foam blocks for the top of my car, although I suppose with a Jeep it might be something different: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks

My kayak is a Loon 120 from REI. I like it, but perhaps a bit on the pricey side for a new kayak, although it looks like it is on sale now: https://www.rei.com/product/100146/old-town-loon-120-kayak-black-cherry

I have camped with just a tarp off and on for years.

ProGrip 717904 Assorted Tarp Strap - 9 Piece

By straps like this so that you can stretch it out . I try to make a v like this . If you can carry a couple semi heavy items to use as anchors for some side and use something like your oars as your center supports if you can't find a couple high points to build your center with.

I agree with captaingorliia, she gets off on it more than I do, I think because of the time it takes to do it right. I do like the look and utility of it, and my wife LOVES suspension - takes away all her "control".

The rope I use is...
hemp, cut off the stupid metal ends and bind with twine, otherwise you or she will get tagged in the face. not good. I also throw new ropes into a pillowcase and toss that in the dryer with a few towels to soften and loosen the new rope, makes a big difference in comfort.

Safety Always -have some trauma shears nearby, carry a knife so you can immediately release anything that gets dangerous.

Learn how to make a simple chest harness first, then a two-column tie, everything else builds on variations of this.

Best site to learn "the ropes"....

TwoKnottyBoys

Kink. com has a sub site (pun intended) called sex and submission. Massive amount of scenes there to stoke your own creativity.

I get the vast majority of my toys from Amazon.

A couple of quick ideas:

Kelty Noahs Tarp

B.A.S.E. Tarp

I also have a smaller green tarp I keep in my jeep that I picked up at Target (I think) that one side is a tarp the other is a blanket. It cost less than 20 dollars. Good luck.

I would recommend this is the perfect time to upgrade to a Kelty Noah's Tarp 12 - 2013 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009R9FUI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pJTTAb3F5X5C2

And learn how to set it up.

Ball Bungees to secure tapestries/sheets to the EZ up

I use these clips on the bottom of the sheet and then I use a length of paracord to tie it to a plastic stake which keeps it in place.

Weights filled with sand to keep it all on the ground and out of the next lot

This guy has the right reply. The conduit to use.
https://www.google.com/search?q=flexible.ent.cable&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
The cut in low voltage “ box “ to use.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7013&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi7XQBRDnARIsANeLIev8bAAphQ1eitYojMoMLgOPzyIFmvSKZ71KXdPwHA0EP4FeMiQtH8IaAjR0EALw_wcB
Put this in the conduit to pull up cable leave a spare for future.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56108-Poly-500-Foot/dp/B0026TA6WK
Leave 6” to 12” of conduit above the top plate and use a conduit clamp to secure it to the top plate. Have the conduit stop just at the top of the conduit “box”. Tie it to the cut in box with some wire so it stays in place. The cut in box has two screw holes so you can attach any type of plate you want. Drill in the center of the top plate. If you have insulation you will need a fish tape. If you have a fire block you will need a an extra long auger but they make them three foot long and the are designed for pulling wire. Klein and Greenlee make the industry specific tools. Good Luck !

From America's Test Kitchen Season 6: Grill-Roasted Pork Loin

• TESTING NOTES
  
  **
  
  WINNER
  Rated as HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:
  
  Librett Cotton Butcher’s Twine - $8.29 (2 cents per foot)
  
  > This ball of 100 percent cotton twine tied and held foods without burning, fraying, splitting, or breaking. It made neat, even ties around braciole and whole chicken and stayed in place without slipping. Although any cotton twine might perform as well, this brand releases string from the center of the ball, letting us pay it out with no danger of it rolling off the counter.
  
  
• Amazon link
  
  **
  
  Rated as RECOMMENDED:
  
  French Linen Butcher’s Twine - $9.99 (3 cents per foot)
  
  > This compact ball of linen twine comes in a clear plastic container with an opening for the string and a small blade for portioning lengths, but we still needed our kitchen shears to snip off ends after tying. Thinner than cotton twine and slightly more expensive, linen proved just as strong and simple to use.
  
  
• Amazon Link
  
  **
  
  RECOMMENDED WITH RESERVATIONS:
  
  Trudeau Food Tie Wraps - $14.20 for 6; reusable
  
  **
  
  NOT RECOMMENDED:
  
  Fusionbrands The FoodLoop Trussing Tool
  
  > Although they held up to searing in a hot pan and roasting in a 450-degree oven, we needed more than one set of four textured 13½-inch silicone ties to tie our braciole at 1-inch intervals. Spaced 2 inches apart, they let the rolled meat bulge in between and left ugly indentations. As for trussing a chicken, these loops pulled the legs to one side as we tightened the cinch, making the bird lean, which resulted in lopsided roasting.
  

Second. It definitely sounds like a tarp.

There a few varieties of tarps:

• One one hand there are light-weight specialty tarps like this one
  
• And there are more general tarps like this one which are more bulky, but much less expensive
  

Thanks for all the info. How do you secure the under quilt? I was thinking of getting those clip things and using those plus para-cord to hold it up

I wrap them around my hand, then secure them with a short one of these

Closest in price: $2.98 twisty thing but it's an add-on, so for a normal item $2.91 corner bumpers with free shipping

Math related: USB with AES 256-bit encryption but I also have an "Ultimate Pi" wishlist with an item.

Don't know what you want it for, but twine is always useful to have around!

I've been using the Kelty Noah 12 for 2 people all year + porch mode. It's awesome.

These rope tighteners are awesome. They can only tighten until you release them. The release is mechanical I’ve never had an issue. Nite Ize CamJam XT Aluminum Rope Tightener, Large Versatile Tie Down Cam Mechanism With Carabiner Clip + 500 LB Load Limit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oLnQCbWGD25BE

I like the black rubber ones.

Ones that look like this: https://smile.amazon.com/ProGrip-717904-Assorted-Tarp-Strap/dp/B000PXZYAS/

Now that these are sold out, Amazon has pretty similar prices for the 12'.
https://www.amazon.com/Kelty-Noahs-Tarp-12-2013/dp/B009R9FUI2

Nite-ize Gear tie
They can be bent into a suitable stand at any angle you wish, take up very little space and have multiple other uses as well.

Nite Ize GT6-2PK-01 Gear Tie Reusable 6-Inch Rubber Twist Tie, 2-Pack, Black
http://amzn.com/B004MMEHKQ

Is it flexible or rigid? If flexible, it reminds me of something like these ties.

I just tried to buy a $5 5x7 tarp on Amazon, and it's clearly labled "Add On Item". http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Tarps-GTRP57-Multi-Purpose-Waterproof/dp/B0053JX5SW

The cheapest 5X7 tarp which is prime eligible is $7.70. http://www.amazon.com/Kotap-5-ft-7-ft-General-Purpose/dp/B001OPEX2Q

You can get a 5x7 tarp at Wal-Mart for less than $2. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kotap-TRA0507-Blue-Poly-Tarp-5-X-7/25074332

I also like these.. easy to undo quick for learning

more(have not tried these, but i will have to now)

and

less

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

a smaller one for paracord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSKY0KS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

They're kinda pricey, but I'm becoming a big fan of managing cables with bendy things of this sort: Nite Ize Gear Tie.

Hey fellow 4runner owner! Here’s what I use. The Thule straps are awesome. So simple to use and so secure. Using an additional 1 foot webbing loop, I’ve strapped 2 iSUPs (6” thick apiece) to the roof.

Thule 531 Express Surf Strap Blue One Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MZZF4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1h5YCbYYRSS84

Dorsal Aero Crossbar Roof Rack Pads for Car Surfboard Kayak SUP Snowboard Racks 28 Inch Long [Pair] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00996WIJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Om5YCbTYKFA1H

Since I have to travel on the freeway to any body of water, I also use bow and stern tie downs.

Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SVX1CbT7QYMAZ


I have iSUPs but sometimes I’ll inflate at home and strap to roof the night before. They way we can just put in right away when we get there. I deflate after our paddle and put in the back on for the ride home.

Something like this that you close in your hood and trunk Shoreline Marine Propel hood Trunk tie-Down Loops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRBXQUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W04-ybYDMSS41

And the ropes Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q14-yb5825GX5

I imagine something like this would work.

About $6 on Amazon. You won't regret it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RBQF4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What kind of sport bike do you have?
I have a '97 VFR (sport touring) and I use this cargo net. It just has some simple hooks on it that I place under the plastics; my buddy has a '96 F3 and uses the same one, works fine for him.

I wouldn't worry about it. It's part of the aesthetic and [shouldn't be too difficult to replace] (http://www.amazon.com/Lehigh-Group-530X-Twine-Heavy/dp/B000VYBB0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397028584&sr=8-1&keywords=twine) if you ever need to.

Main straps I open the doors and go through the car. I do that mostly for speed because I don't have to worry about the extra length of straps. Got them from Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-in-x-12-ft-Ratchet-Tie-Down-4-Pack-FH0829/206802316

When I travel more than 20 minutes to the lake, I strap down the front and back using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed a hitch on the car, so the rear tie downs get tied to that.

Are you using a tarp clip in the center? I haven't been brave enough to use those clips on my silnylon tarps. It looks like this.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6268-Tarp-Clips-4-Piece/dp/B00A50NB24/

Just get a Nite Ize Camjam and don't worry about anything else. https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Aluminum-Tightener-Carabiner/dp/B00XVP9ZPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1496112801&sr=8-13&keywords=nite-ize+carabiner

I wrap about a 6" roll of both sides of the cable with a 6" Nite Ize gear tie. amzn.com/B004MMEHKQ Then toss it in my pack.

Everywhere. Most groceries have 100% cotton butcher's twine for stringing meat/chicken/etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Butchers-Twine-185-feet/dp/B000I1WNV0/

Was gonna do the same thing myself until I ponied up and paid for a real one but here's what i was gonna use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JS1R3V6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=CSOJRV79HZIC&coliid=IMAGRCS8UH4SM

Waxed Butcher Paper

Butchers twine

For laundry in hostels, I just found a time when most people were out and about (or not using bathrooms) and washed my clothes in the sink. Some travel laundry soap and a little rubber sink stopper came in handy. Then ring them out, roll them up in a towel to get them a bit more dry, then I hung them over/near my bunk using this thing. Cheers!

this might help

Tarp clips (e.g. these on Amazon), kitchen implements (e.g. spatulas), plastic or metal rulers, belts, bondage tape, clothespins, rubber bands.

https://www.amazon.ca/Homax-Group-6025-CinchTite-Adhesive/dp/B000KI0QXI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3B5P01VNOGS4Z&keywords=zipper+for+tarps&qid=1558855560&s=gateway&sprefix=zipper+for+%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-GT6-2PK-01-Reusable-6-Inch/dp/B004MMEHKQ

They ran out of zip ties and started using twist ties for cable management. When they ran out of those too, it looks like they used pull line left over from pulling network wires through conduit.

It looks bad, but it works.

A tail bag on a motorcycle is utilitarian in purpose. Fuck what it looks like. It's about how much it can hold and what you need it for.

Why not just get some bungee net and strap a gallon of Arizona to your passenger pillion?

Here is my setup. Lots of hair and dirt, but the seats look brand new when I take it all off. None of the hair ends up in the front seats either, even with the windows down.

First I lay down a large black towel on the seat and tuck in the edges. Then I have a black Formosa Cover that wraps down to the floor and around the ends of the seats. I tried a normal pet hammock before and it wasn't nearly as protective. I have fitted the hammock with some velcro on the seat ends so that they stay in place after many jumps in and out. I also have the floor end of the hammock tied with rubber twist ties around the seatbelt because my girlfriend's dog tries to crawl under it often and this stopped that.

The doors have Kurgo Door Guards with 3M non-slip grip surface added to the inside face of the door guard and black velvet added to the outside (glass) face for the tinted windows. I tried an adhesive door guard and it was junk.

Lastly the Solvit Pet Barrier keeps my girlfriend's dog from jumping over. I also found that it keeps pet hair out of the front so I have it up even when her dog isn't in the car. I do not tie it down as shown in the product page, as the pet hammock keeps it in place.

You can make a quick underquilt that works with a set of these!, two lengths of shock cord and an old sleeping bag.