Reddit mentions: The best automotive fuel pumps & accessories

This is a bit big for a pistol suppressor, but it might give you some ideas.

Me and a friend spent quite a bit of time looking for off the shelf parts to use in a form 1 can and stumbled upon something quite remarkable. A 3/4 oz. jigger is an almost perfect fit in a NAPA 4003 fuel filter. Simply split it from the other end of the jigger, mount it in the chuck and bore a hole in the center. Then turn down a tube of 1.5" ID aluminum to fit inside and cut into sections for spacers. We have completed them and they have held up to 5.56 NATO and full power 300 Blackout without any problems. Oh, they work quite well too! Very quiet with subsonic 300 Blackout. I hope to make a DIY thread soon. This will have to do until I get some of the lathe pics.

Edit: Get can here

Get jiggers here

Split jiggers

Here's the jiggers after being separated.

Front and back of baffle and spacer.

Detail showing machining inside spacer to allow baffle to seat properly.

Two baffle stacks stacked.

First coat of paint! Here you can see we faced the end cap and knurled it. I also drilled two holes in the front of the cap so I could use a spanner wrench in case it gets stuck.

On one of the hosts. 300 Blackout pistol.

Tear down after a day at the range. Here you can see we milled the blast baffle to reduce weight. I hope to mill the spacers to further reduce weight. It is especially dirty because I used wire pulling gel on some subsonic ammo to see just how quiet it could get. Very impressive performance for the money spent.

Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

The filter is replaceable rather than cleanable. It unscrews from the fuel line and a new one is just bolted back in place. If you are in the rust belt it might be moderately difficult, but if things go well it's a 15 minute job that needs only simple hand tools (a few metric box end wrenches). This filter should fit, though you can grab one from the parts store if you want to do it asap. https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9XZJC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=4Runner%7C1005&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=14&vehicleType=automotive

Vacuum leaks can be tested with fancy equipment, but the majority can be found by simply listening for air sucking sounds and looking for cracks (intake boot and vacuum lines). If you want to get a bit more effective you can spray vacuum lines with starting fluid and see if it changes the engine idle, but that obviously only works if the truck is running. As bad as your symptoms are you would probably be looking for a huge tear in your intake boot or something else substantial.

Where are you located?

I was searching craigslist and ebay and yard sales for a rolling 15-20gal fuel caddy but most were gravity fed and my dock isn't always sitting with the right tide for that to work for me. Finally gave up on a $140-300 caddy and picked up 15.5 gal blue poly chemical jugs for free from a local guy. I paid $17 for a 12v fuel transfer pump and then 10-20' of 3/4" fuel line from Napa/Advance Auto Parts etc. I made my money back after my first fill up at Wawa/Thorntons with Eth-Free gas with how expensive my fuel dock in Tampa is. When you're saving $1 per gallon and doing 30-60 gallons a week it really adds up. You can bear hug and carry the jugs when you fill them with 12-14gal each and carry them from truck down to the dock.

Pump that fits into the fill-hole of the jug:

https://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Fuel-Transfer-Pump-Submersible/dp/B01NAGVGN3/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1522522185&sr=8-13&keywords=fuel+transfer+pump

Jugs:

http://www.hazmatpac.com/product-details/id-15-gallon-blue-plastic-drum-un-461-b.html


Photo of me filling up 30gal in 5 minutes on my dock:

https://imgur.com/a/KL8FE

The fuel pump is part # M60107. It's $22 on rock auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/carter,M60107,fuel+pump,6256

or summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m60107

or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carter-M60107-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C02DQC



The electric route is pretty easy. https://imgur.com/a/4ykaKtZ (forgive the shoddy wiring) This is mounted by the right rear control arm.

Just having the right tire for the right situation is key. The stock tires they come with have to kind of work in every situation, jack of all trades master of none. Like, I live in an area where rocks and rocky river crossings or sand dunes aren't a thing. Its mostly just hardpack, and thick mud, so why not get a tire that was made specifically for that? With tires theres a trade off for every thing you do. Finding whats right for you makes an enormous difference over the stock tires. Biggest performance gain per dollar I'd say by far.

Also, ground clearance on the 450 theres only a couple ways you can get more of it and thats one of the easiest. You'd gain 2" over the stock 24"s going to a 28".


So then why a clutch kit? Well going to aftermarket tires effects the gear ratio and they're heavier so it robs a little low end power. So a clutch kit changes the springs and stuff to correct it (sort of) and make it grab the belt harder and get your acceleration back (if not more). The trade off being that the clutch engagement is slightly higher and more harsh. EIP or QSC are great.


To fix the factory cvt intake you'll have to fab something up on your own or get a snorkel kit (not recommended). Really just need something like this to keep air coming in but water out (mostly). Sometimes in rare cases the cvt box itself leaks from behind where it bolts up to the crank shaft. You have to pull the primary and secondary off to fix it and its a real mess.

Alright, thanks a lot. I have to replace the whole thing, right? I found a unit on Amazon for $113.
https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA13012161558-Module-Assembly-Civic/dp/B01LYSG8TM/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X705KHYYN06AF49YPKZS

Magic fluids that might stop the leak exist... but if I were the buyer I don't know that such a "fix" would satisfy me. Expect a spirited negotiation.

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP8043M-Module-Assembly/dp/B00LPIRKUY

The install is really easy. Take out the back seats, opens the panel with four screws, take out the old one and put in the new one. Let the car idle for a few minutes to get comfortable with it

There's a rollover valve but a 1/4" tube will go right by it. It's pretty slow (~2 mins/L) so a pump helps. They are available for purchase:

https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Transfer-Gastapper-Equipment-Vehicles/dp/B00QSPU0NS

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mGeb9s6yFE

For my 2003 I used this pump and strainer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1ILZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C1LVYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks similar to the one /u/ohnotherobots used but at the time when I bought it in 2015, it was $21. Not sure why the price has doubled.

In terms of the act of replacing it. Its tough but not impossible. The hardest part is getting the actual pump out of the frame once you've undone the bolts. I fashioned my own pump puller out of bolts and L brackets I had laying around that worked well enough. Someone with welding abilities would be able to make a puller in 2 min worth of work

edit Also, the fuel filter is #FF3330DL from Autozone

CT sells a red siphon pump that could replace those cans of air, and save you money in the long run. It comes with an attachment to blow air, and it uses arm power. It's called a "Deluxe Pump", I'd post the link, but it's down. Here is the link to the version that Amazon sells: https://www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-25713-Fluid-Transfer-Liquids/dp/B00825PX3E . AFAIK Lordco also stocks these pumps.

That’s a good call, thanks so much for letting me me know.

The PO filled me in on the details and can confirm that it starts with starter fluid.
Unfortunately, I broke the fuel sock off of the hanger currently in the car, so I would need one regardless.

Funnily enough I had already ordered a Bosch fuel pump.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZJB7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KMDAbXCPM5WE

I’m assuming these are compatible with each other, but some reviews state the fuel hanger pipes are too close to the sender unit, which is what I’m hoping someone else here would know.

I ordered mine from ACDelco.. On Amazon about a week ago ACDelco MU1733 GM Original Equipment Fuel Pump and Level Sensor Module with Seal, Float, and Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2TPVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.mPDbCJYV6C2

Good first step is a Rear Motor Mount + Fuel Pump Upgrade + SRI, I have the K&N Typhoon since was cheaper at the time + a Turbo Inlet Pipe (can just get one of the $50 ones from ebay...) then a Cobb Accessport V2 used or get a new V3.

This might be you only option, lol.

I second trying a glass measuring cup. I have a plastic one and a glass one, the plastic one will do this shit to me every time.

Does that need to be done prior to removing the old compressor? Are you saying if I disconnect the compressor the old system will automatically be vented?

How cheap are we talking? This is the cheapest I can find on Amazon for my model.

https://www.amazon.com/HFP-603-External-Inline-Replacement-Fuel/dp/B00FVE0OB0

Pump look like that?