Reddit mentions: The best automotive fuel system parts

We found 223 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive fuel system parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 164 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. Smart Oil Gauge - Wi-Fi Heating Oil Tank Gauge - Check Your Oil Level From Your Phone, Compatible with Alexa

    Features:
  • ✔ REMOTE OIL TANK MONITORING: Check your heating oil tank from your smartphone – anytime, anywhere! Don’t worry about running to the basement to check your tank. Check your tank from work, vacation, or wherever you have internet access. Got a second home or a rental property? Monitor the tanks from your phone and enjoy the peace of mind in knowing there’s oil in the tank.
  • ✔ LOW-LEVEL ALERTS: No more middle-of-the-night runouts. Smart Oil Gauge will send you text and e-mail alerts when it’s time to order oil. Receive an e-mail notification when the level reaches ½ tank, 1/3 tank, ¼ tank and/or 1/8 tank.
  • ✔ ENERGY EFFICIENCY: Track your heating oil usage by the hour. Watch how much oil you burn throughout the day, and adjust the thermostat to conserve fuel. Save money on heating oil by optimizing the thermostat settings.
  • ✔ WORKS WITH MOST TANKS: Versatile design means it’s compatible with standard steel 138, 220, 240, 275, 330 (vertical or horizontal), 500 gallon tanks, and more. Twin tanks? No problem! Just use one Smart Oil Gauge and choose this configuration in the app. Adapter available for Roth 400L, 620L, 1000L, and 1000LH. Adapter also available for tanks with 1.5” NPT fittings. Above-ground tanks only.
  • ✔ ASSEMBLED IN THE USA: Designed and assembled in the USA. Precision-machined aluminum housing mates perfectly with your oil tank. Ultrasonic sensor uses sound to detect the oil level, and will survive some oil being splashed on it.
Smart Oil Gauge - Wi-Fi Heating Oil Tank Gauge - Check Your Oil Level From Your Phone, Compatible with Alexa
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height5.3 Inches
Length2.8 Inches
Weight1.5 Pounds
Width2.3 Inches
Size1 Count (Pack of 1)
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

10. Standard Motor Products FPS18 Fuel Pressure Sensor

    Features:
  • Intermotor Fuel Pressure Sensor (FPS18)
  • Part number: FPS18
  • Fit type: Vehicle Specific
  • Package Weight: 0.04 kilograms
Standard Motor Products FPS18 Fuel Pressure Sensor
Specs:
ColorAssorted
Height3.38 Inches
Length2 Inches
Weight0.01 Pounds
Width1.44 Inches
SizeOne Size
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

20. Pacman Tool Pac Man Screwdriver Carburetor Ajustment

Pacman Tool Pac Man Screwdriver Carburetor Ajustment
Specs:
Height9 Inches
Length6 Inches
Width1 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on automotive fuel system parts

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive fuel system parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 21
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 4
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Fuel System Equipment:

u/OnTheClock_Slackin · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee

I just got an 08 WK Limited 5.7 with 51k on it. Here is what I did immediately, I have the previous service records and it seems as though some of the work may have been done, it wasn't 100% clear and I just wanted to know a baseline.

Replace PCV Valve (cheap part, just unscrews by hand to replace, super easy), Clean Throttle Body (remove air box, remove throttle body, clean with ONLY isopropol alcohol and a clean rag) and install Billet Technology (or equivalent) Catch Can. This is all done because the PCV system on the Hemi basically sucks, you'll see when you remove the throttle body that it will most likely be gunked up, the PCV lets too much oil through. This is cured with the catch can. Immediately helps throttle response and minor hep to fuel economy.

Replace MAP Sensor. Honestly not really sure why, all the forums say do it, it's a $20 part and basically pop-out, pop-in replacement. A little tricky to get your hand in behind the manifold the get it, takes some maneuvering but be patient, you'll get it. Said to have positive effect on fuel economy.

Replace EGR Valve. This can be tricky as the alternator blocks one of the bolts. Many people will tell you to cut the bolt and install a new shorter one. This seems like a lot of extra work to me. I just removed the belt (easy to do) and unbolted the alternator (2 bolts). This took me all of about 6 minutes to do, then the new EGR (and new gaskets) just bolt back on.

While I had that off I replaced the serpentine belt. Cheap enough, and why the hell not, now I know exactly ow old it is. While you're in there check all your pulleys, tensioner, etc. Make sure they move smoothly and quietly. I forgot this step and I DID have a squeak I wanted to address. I still have said squeak. Next nice day I'm gonna get back in there and check.

Spark plugs. I have an 08, so it wasn't hard. Unbolt each coil, gently crack the plugs with a ratchet (I have a great plug ratchet set I'll link below, get it, it will help with all your plug changes on any deep well hemi). Change your plugs. I got the Champion 57- Copper core generally the recommended plug), dab of dielectric on the end (no anti-size, I don't like it, I change plugs every 30k so I shouldn't need it, some say anti seize leads to accidental over-torque, personal preference I guess). Gap plugs to .44 and torque to 13ft.lbs.

Next I did K&N drop in air filter, swapped my air resonator for a SRT Inlet tube (take off, bought online for $20 shipped, search the STR forums for the for sale items) and extended the drain hole for more air inlet. Sounds great, that throaty cold air intake everyone loves without the risk of slurping up some water and hydro locking. Be sure to perform regular main on the filter, clean and il it as required by the spec.

Oil change. Mobil 1 Synthetic, 5w-20 & Mopar filter. Because oil change....

I also installed the fumoto quick valve to change my oil easier. It scares some people, I looked it over and feel confident that it will not open accidentally, it has a decent spring type safety.

I plan to soon flush and fill tranny, radiator, transfer case & differentials. After that is all done I may swap out a few more sensors. IAT, O2, Crank Position, etc. With all that complete I will feel as confident as I possibly can in the maintenance of my Hemi.

I may point out that i'm not really mechanically inclined. I have just been doing a lot of research on forums (jeepgarage, cherokeesrt8, jeepsunlimited, etc) I founds lots of good write ups, reviews and information. Take you time, do your research and everything will be there.

Generally my truck runs smoother, quieter, more powerful and a little better MPG. It's only been about 100 miles since I did all this, but for the overall $$ I spend (under $400) it was totally worth it. At a dealer my guess is this is like 1500 worth of work. Below are some links. Have fun.



Tune up kit
http://www.amazon.com/GRAND-CHEROKEE-COMMANDER-5-7L-HEMI/dp/B003ZW9EUM

Spark Plug Tool
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3-Piece-Magnetic-Universal/dp/B000NIEECO

Fumoto Oil valve
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?partname=F106N&partnumber=33

Spark Plug Change Tutorial
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f156/diy-hemi-5-7l-spark-plug-change-50750.html

EGR (I didnt follow exaclt, i just removed alternator, this shows all steps including cutting botl. You choose your own adventure here...)
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?516169-DIY-how-to-install-a-new-EGR-w-pics&highlight=egr%20valve

PCV Valve
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/changing-pcv-valve-1336134/

Throttle body cleaning
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/throttle-body-cleaning-tips-1342502/index2.html

MAP Sensor (start at post #8 in this thread, thats where the good info starts, but feel free to read from beginning if you want)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/5-7l-map-sensor-location-1340713/

And for ALL the info on your WK, use this site as your bible.
http://wkjeeps.com/

Hope this helps a bit!!!

u/brownsemen · 7 pointsr/NFA

This is a bit big for a pistol suppressor, but it might give you some ideas.

Me and a friend spent quite a bit of time looking for off the shelf parts to use in a form 1 can and stumbled upon something quite remarkable. A 3/4 oz. jigger is an almost perfect fit in a NAPA 4003 fuel filter. Simply split it from the other end of the jigger, mount it in the chuck and bore a hole in the center. Then turn down a tube of 1.5" ID aluminum to fit inside and cut into sections for spacers. We have completed them and they have held up to 5.56 NATO and full power 300 Blackout without any problems. Oh, they work quite well too! Very quiet with subsonic 300 Blackout. I hope to make a DIY thread soon. This will have to do until I get some of the lathe pics.

Edit: Get can here

Get jiggers here

Split jiggers

Here's the jiggers after being separated.

Front and back of baffle and spacer.

Detail showing machining inside spacer to allow baffle to seat properly.

Two baffle stacks stacked.

First coat of paint! Here you can see we faced the end cap and knurled it. I also drilled two holes in the front of the cap so I could use a spanner wrench in case it gets stuck.

On one of the hosts. 300 Blackout pistol.

Tear down after a day at the range. Here you can see we milled the blast baffle to reduce weight. I hope to mill the spacers to further reduce weight. It is especially dirty because I used wire pulling gel on some subsonic ammo to see just how quiet it could get. Very impressive performance for the money spent.

u/KarmaCommando_ · 1 pointr/paramotor

Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

u/fenderfreek · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

This explains it way better than I could:
MPFI Conversion

Basically, the original system is central sequential port injection (CSFI), and prone to fouling, sticking, and leaking at the poppets from carbon buildup. GM revised the design in '02, and the new, much-improved multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) unit is 100% backwards compatible. You can get them from most any auto parts supplier, I bought mine on Amazon. It's not cheap, (~$300), but it works much better than the old design and is literally a drop-in replacement.

The work is pretty easy if you're comfortable under the hood, and iirc, the new unit comes with instructions for doing the conversion. Remember to pick up a intake gasket set since you'll be pulling the upper half of the intake out.

This is the new unit
ACDelco 217-3028 Fuel Injector on Amazon.

Cheaper, non-OEM part on Amazon.

u/TheLiqourCaptain · 3 pointsr/BMW

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

u/ceresia · 1 pointr/Toyota

I would browse amazon and such and see what reviews state, like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Versachem-90180-Heavy-Duty-Fuel-Repair/dp/B002N5JAO2


http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09101-Fuel-Tank-Repair/dp/B000ALDYIO


You can easily weed out the idiots of reviews that didn't follow directions or clean the surface and prep correctly, that does make all the difference.

I would hope you aren't inside the tank as you are under the car repairing, any repairs needed from inside I would highly recommend the replacement tank instead, but if you meant what else should you look for while under the car? You can always look at the gas tank strap and ensure it isn't damaged or screwed up in any way. Also if you do end up replacing the tank then get some undercoating spray in a can and after installed and tested then take the strap down, spray coating where the strap wass and while still wet replace strap, then coat the rest of the tank thoroughly, it makes a world of difference and helps bind the strap from moving as well.

u/Sussex631 · 2 pointsr/Degus

Thanks, woke up this morning and she was already eating! I'm looking after her closely and the vet will re-examine her on Tuesday. I'm annoyed that I only noticed (she was eating normally) because her nose had bled and she'd scratched it up (it's still scarred and I have to clean it as well as giving her 4 medicines each time - hoping she won't hate me for it!).

I have added 3 links (UK based, but showing similar wheels). I bought two a while back. I asked the office admin to source me a couple of flying saucer wheels in metal, so I need to find out from the office PC where they were sold!

Mine are labelled Wagner and came from Germany by airmail but they're the coated finish type with gentle ribs on the face. Only issue I've had is that both have needed new centre bearing attachments. The bearings themselves are pretty sound, but the screws and nuts that hold them in tend to tighten and seize (urine-doesn't help them!) so I've drilled one out and modified both. Having said that they are not too pricey and degus love them. Fur's been on hers almost constantly since she got back.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Running-Plate-Large-made-steel/dp/B0064JD6P2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502000030&sr=8-2&keywords=degu+wheel+flying+saucer

https://www.amazon.com/Treadmill-Wheel-14-green-Chinchillas/dp/B0113HK4X6

http://www.metalchinchillawheels.com/

If I find the info on the manufacturers I'll post/send a link.

EDIT: I found the invoice. Googling the manufacturer brings up the running plate link I put first. The label's changed (just to confuse me).

https://www.parrotshop.de/nager/ausstattung-zubehoer/laufraeder/9036/laufteller-large-aus-stahl-fuer-chinchillas-und-degus

https://www.parrotshop.de/nager/ausstattung-zubehoer/laufraeder/8668/laufteller-x-large-aus-stahl-fuer-chinchillas-und-degus

The links above are to Wagner's website. It's in German (they're near Köln) and mainly bird bits, but there is a large variety of nager (rodent) stuff. It's priced in Euros. Mine was £34.90 in January this year with a £9.90 charge for post to the UK. From that and the time difference I'd guess it's the large not extra large, and probably the same one as currently on amazon. It looks to be about the diameter of a standard 300mm/12" ruler. The Wagner site shows 28cm or 36cm so there's a decent choice there.

Sorry for the long, long reply, trying to cover it all!

u/xveganxcowboyx · 1 pointr/CarHelp

The filter is replaceable rather than cleanable. It unscrews from the fuel line and a new one is just bolted back in place. If you are in the rust belt it might be moderately difficult, but if things go well it's a 15 minute job that needs only simple hand tools (a few metric box end wrenches). This filter should fit, though you can grab one from the parts store if you want to do it asap. https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9XZJC/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=4Runner%7C1005&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=14&vehicleType=automotive

Vacuum leaks can be tested with fancy equipment, but the majority can be found by simply listening for air sucking sounds and looking for cracks (intake boot and vacuum lines). If you want to get a bit more effective you can spray vacuum lines with starting fluid and see if it changes the engine idle, but that obviously only works if the truck is running. As bad as your symptoms are you would probably be looking for a huge tear in your intake boot or something else substantial.

Where are you located?

u/Trophlin · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I guess technically it will be a solenoid not relay but I digress. There is a ton of information on the internet if you search for it. I haven't seen anyone on this subreddit talk about doing what you want even though I've always thought about it. In my eyes it is much better than the "dash cam battery packs."

I would get the largest deep cycle AGM battery you can fit and afford along with this solenoid or one similar. I wouldn't run anything smaller than 4awg for the wire. Should be very easy.

u/Rilnac · 2 pointsr/SubaruForester

I've replaced the fill neck twice (on a 98S and an 01L), I hope you have tiny hands and good grip because getting the end out of the rubber hose above the subframe is challenging. Also do not buy the dorman neck, it doesn't fit right. The spectra one is a perfect fit https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-FN664-Fuel-Filler/dp/B006GZAQOI

u/sssssnakesssss · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Nice! Looks great with that bike brake! I got the Teraflex one works great on a steep trail and road trips to give the leg a break with no cruise control!

u/bfradio · 2 pointsr/lawncare

I use a Ryobi 26cc straight shaft trimmer. It's a multi tool that allows the end to be changed. I tried using the wheeled blade for edging the driveway and sidewalks, but in the long run ended up just using the string for everything. The blade is over kill. If you edge every week then the string is more than enough to keep the edges clean. I've had the Ryobi for 3 years. Last year I had to adjust the carburetor which requires a special tool or taking it to a mechanic. I opted to buy the tool and ever since then it has run great and started on a few pulls every time. I prefer spool string over the one time fixed length string. If you get the spooling right it's much easier than changing the fixed length. With a little practice I now get the spooling right 9/10 times. I prefer gas, but I think this mostly depends on yard size. Actually, my preference for gas is over corded, but battery operated is becoming a very viable option. When I was young my father had a corded trimmer that i found annoying and always thought I would get a gas powered one when I had my own yard. I would advise that anyone wear earplugs when using a gas powered trimmer or blower.

The Ryobi is surely not the highest quality trimmer on the market, but it works for me.

edit: This is the tool you need to adjust the carburetor

u/tearjerkingpornoflic · 1 pointr/Fixxit

For poking out crud that blocks them up? I didn't say to put them in a drill. As long as you use one smaller than the hole it is fine, you can also use the back of it where it is solid. The jets are made of brass and won't fall apart from poking crud out. Here is a pro carb cleaner. https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=222407935381&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps it also has metal pokers. Here is another https://www.amazon.com/Carb-Cleaner-Wire-Set/dp/B001DDMB2I. Pretty much all of them are like that and work fine.

u/pharmaconaut · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I used a set up like this when I open blasted, the ball valves create a very good seal without tape, ratcheted down tightly with a wrench.
You'll need a inverted flare adapter to use these valves, to convert the male end to NPT threads.

I would always place a filter before the material, to filter out potential paint particles (heard claims that it scrapes paint into the butane) but I never found any paint, and I used both coffee filters and 25 micron mean screens.

I liked can tappers, as it provides a good deal more pressure for open blasting. I used less butane.

u/leroy_sunset · 6 pointsr/Volvo

Just replace the FPS by yourself. I did it and it was easy, following the excellent writeup in this thread: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?154495-How-to-Change-your-Fuel-Pressure-Sensor-on-the-T5-engine

You can buy the part from amazon, $56 - http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FPS18-Pressure/dp/B005F9IZTO

As for Volvo not recalling this identical part on every car? Welcome to Volvo. They don't recall shit. Millions of Volvos have clogged/leaking sunroof drains, stemming from poor design. Volvo straight up refuses to address the issue and has fought a class-action lawsuit tooth and nail.

u/erikreynolds · 6 pointsr/Connecticut

A few of my friends have gotten a WiFi Oil Gauge on Amazon that seems to work well. I have not personally tested it, but I have heard good things.

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Oil-Gauge-Heating-Compatible/dp/B01M2VATHS/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1543264188&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=wifi+oil+gauge

u/KnightOwlForge · 2 pointsr/Blacksmith

Most regulators that are worth anything do not have gauges on them out of the box. You have to buy a gauge and replace the brass plug with it. Super easy and cheap.

This is the regulator I bought... Notice the brass plug where the gauge is inserted.
https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Excelsior-Megr-6120-30-Regulator-Adjustable/dp/B00EP1R65M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1494961781&sr=8-17&keywords=propane+regulator

To answer you OP, propane hoses are sold with different connectors on them... I bought the hose with the proper fittings, but if you must, you can buy an adapter. Make sure everything is taped up with YELLOW thread tape.

u/eobanb · 2 pointsr/citybike

This one is a very cheap M-Wave one, $10 on Amazon. But so far it works great.

u/ka-tet · 1 pointr/Blacksmith

I use this one paired with this gauge and this connector, and love it.

u/SherSlick · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Did a little googling and found this thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Oil-Gauge-Wi-Fi-Heating/dp/B01M2VATHS/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1TKKWDC6TX086W81BV51

I honestly am thinking on the path of a basic sender in the tank that gives a level reading via variable resistance. Then connect this to something like a RaspberryPi to interface with HomeAssistant.

But I have not worked with HomeAssistant so I am unsure what kinds of info it can take/handle.

u/alldanknugs · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

I dont think the can tapper would function properly with that ball valve. I think you need one like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That adapter should work I think but I got this one and make sure you remove the internals that are not needed in our application and would reduce the flow of tane

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is my can tapper

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you use a can tapper correctly the puncture point is at the bottom corner of the can so all of the butane can flow out as a liquid. Since the flow rate is increased the pressure inside the tube also increases and with my setup running two can tappers I increase the pressure even more.

u/jwatttt · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

here is my parts list lol i think this would be a better idea splitter. can-tap. going from the splitter to my glacier top. and camico adapter. and ball valves. Does this look adequate or which part do I need to be able to press the valve depressor?

u/nuffced · 2 pointsr/Snowblowers

Carbs are really cheap on Amazon. I have purchased several for under $20 each! I also invested in this worth every penny!

u/scoobasid · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is what you want. Dead simple to install yourself in minutes, customer support is great and it has been reliable. Note that the readings are not very accurate when tank is filled, but that’s because it is tuned to be more accurate as tank empties.

Smart Oil Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2VATHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAmBCbNRE0CGC

u/PeanutbutterSamich · 4 pointsr/cycling

tightening your headset wont fix your "problem", its a function of the geometry of the fork and frame. tightening the headset will just cause the bearing & races to wear faster.

a steering stabilizer or this will help you out

u/dargo67 · 3 pointsr/longisland

I bought this a year or two ago and am really liking it, although its a little pricy. It hooks up to your phone and sends email/texts when you’re low.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2VATHS

u/Automobills · 2 pointsr/Edmonton

I've never had to deal with patching a fuel tank, but there's got to be a cheaper alternative to replacing the tank.

This might work

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002N5JAO2/

u/adoptagreyhound · 6 pointsr/preppers

Maybe it's time for a Wi-Fi connected oil tank gauge. No affiliation or experience with this one - just the first result when I looked for one. https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Oil-Gauge-Heating-Compatible/dp/B01M2VATHS