Reddit mentions: The best automotive greases

We found 267 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive greases. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 73 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease - 8 oz. Squeeze Tube

    Features:
  • Meets NLGI-2 performance
Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease - 8 oz. Squeeze Tube
Specs:
ColorOthers
Height7.625 Inches
Length2.75 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2012
Size8 Ounce
Weight0.5 Pounds
Width2.75 Inches
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7. Valvoline General Purpose Amber Grease 1 LB

    Features:
  • Auto & Truck Maintenance
  • Country of manufacture: United States
  • Manufacturer: VALVOLINE
  • Product packaging may vary
Valvoline General Purpose Amber Grease 1 LB
Specs:
ColorAmber
Height3.75 Inches
Length4.09 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateApril 2021
Size1 Pound Tub
Weight1.05 Pounds
Width4.09 Inches
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11. Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky Grease - 14 Oz.

    Features:
  • Fit type: Universal
Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky Grease - 14 Oz.
Specs:
Colorbright red
Height9.312 Inches
Length2.2 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2012
Size14.5 Ounce
Weight0.947 Pounds
Width2.2 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on automotive greases

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive greases are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 27
Number of comments: 6
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Number of comments: 3
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Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

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u/cybrian · 2 pointsr/n64

I wrote a huge comment here on how to refurbish a stick, but it was a reply to another comment that was deleted. The deleted comment mentioned Kitsch-Bent brand replacement gears, which I would recommend for sure. You can find them on google and on eBay. (And for the record I'm not associated with Kitsch-Bent, I've just used their product and I don't know of any competitors.)

Keep in mind they're not quite as good as brand new gears, but you can get a pack of 10 controllers' worth for significantly less than you'd spend on a single brand new controller.


In addition to this, here's how you refurbish the rest of the stick: I would highly recommend buying a jar of ceramic grease and applying it to the insides of the stick using a toothpick, or with a q-tip with the end cut off. This is the stuff I use.

You're only going to want to use a little bit. This jar will be enough for every N64 controller you ever repair. Seriously. The other bonus is that the ceramic microparticles embed themselves in the plastic, so instead of the assembly being dry plastic on plastic (which will rub itself to dust, literally) it becomes greased ceramic rubbing against ceramic. Theoretically it'll last forever, and practically it'll most certainly last "long enough."

You want to take the whole joystick assembly apart, keeping in mind the order and orientation of everything. Then you want to actually clean all of the parts as good as possible. (If you replace the gears then just throw the old ones out — don't bother cleaning them). There shouldn't be any plastic dust on them before you continue.

DO NOT REMOVE THE ROUND BLACK GEARS WITH SLOTS ALONG THE EDGES FROM THE WHITE BOWL. These gears are precision designed and are meant for sensing the displacement of the stick. If you fuck them up, your joystick is garbage. Heed my warning.

Now that the parts are all clean, put them together and grease them in this order:

  1. Insert the stick through the top part of the assembly further than normal, so the ball is past where it normally sits and the top of the stick is flush with the top of the assembly. Place it upside down on the table, so the insides are sticking up and the top of the stick is against the table. Then use a toothpick to grease the inner "slots" of the ball of the stick. Use VERY little grease here, and do NOT get any on the rest of the stick.
  2. Take the spring between each hand and tug it lightly to expand it. You want both ends of the spring to still be parallel to one another, so don't tug too hard. DO NOT GREASE THE SPRING.
  3. Place the smaller end of the spring into the top part of the joystick assembly. At this point, the top plastic should be sandwiched, so to speak, between the top of the joystick itself and the smaller end of the spring.
  4. Place the white ring, lip side down, on top of the spring. Now use your toothpick to apply very little ceramic grease to the exposed, flat side of the ring.
  5. The smaller gear holds the top assembly together, but before you put it on we want to grease it. Apply grease somewhat liberally to the oval inside that goes around the end of the stick. Put a little on the convex side, too, but try not to get much on the concave side. It isn't the end of the world if you do, but try not to.
  6. Notice the gears are shaped with D-shaped ends on their "axles." Apply a dab of grease on the flat side of these D-shaped ends.
  7. Lock the top half of the assembly back together by putting the smaller gear on. You want to insert the flat "tab" on the end of the stick through the gear, and then turn the gear 90°. The actual gear itself should be towards the top, and the tab should be perpendicular to the slot in the gear assembly.
  8. You should have, at this point, applied grease to: The slots in the ball of the joystick, the white plastic ring, the slot in the small gear, and the flat sides of the D-shaped ends of the small gear's "axles," and then put the top half of the assembly back together. Now go ahead and apply a little to the sides of the tab on the end of the stick, and a nice sized dab on its ball-shaped tip.
  9. Now we're done with the top half! Let's focus on the bottom half. Take it all apart, except do not attempt to remove the gears from the white bowl piece. Now clean everything, so there is no plastic dust at all.
  10. Make sure the white bowl part and its gears are completely dry, and don't apply any grease to any part of it yet. Look closely at the gears and notice there are slots in it. The joystick works because the optical sensors in the circuit board count the number of slots. If you have a steady hand, and you replaced the gears in your stick with Kitsch Bent gears, I suggest applying a very minuscule amount of grease along the teeth of the gears, and ONLY the teeth. If you get any on the part of the gears with slots, clean them very well. The joystick will not work if there are any contaminants the slots. If you don't have a steady hand, or these aren't replacement gears, don't bother greasing their teeth at all. The risk isn't worth it.
  11. Place the bowl/gear assembly back into the bottom half of the joystick assembly's shell. With the screw hole on the bottom, there should be one gear on the right-hand side, and one gear on top. Feel free to put the circuit board back on at this point, too.
  12. The white bowl is actually the most fragile part of the assembly, and the part that wears the most. That's why the "joystick dust" is white. To prevent that, apply a rather liberal amount (by which I mean maybe two or three dabs — we really don't want to use a lot of this stuff!) inside the bowl, and then use your toothpick to apply some to the "slots" along the edge.
  13. Now let's grease the larger gear. Don't apply any grease to the teeth of the gear unless they're new, Kitsch Bent gears and you have a steady hand. Do apply grease to the entirety of the slot part of the gear, so you're actually greasing the concave, convex, and inside of the slot part. Then get the little D-shaped axle ends like on the smaller gear, and drop it back into the bowl. This gear should mesh with the optical gear on the right-hand side of the bowl.
  14. Put the damn thing back together. Be careful to make sure the tab at the tip of the joystick fits into the slot on the larger gear, and that the teeth of the smaller gear are on the opposite side of the top assembly from the screw hole. Feel free to hold it together with your fingers and play with the stick a little before screwing it together, as you want to work some of the grease in further and you can easily take it back apart if something feels wrong.

    As long as you followed this carefully and made sure to not get any grease anywhere near the optical sensors, nor anywhere near the slots they sense your joystick should be as good as can be.

    I've purchased two brand new OEM N64 controllers, and I did this to both of them.
u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.

​

Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.

​

I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.

​

I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!

​

If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/OpticalNecessity · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.

u/moderndraught · 62 pointsr/DIY

If anything you have says food grade, you're most likely set.

This stuff is the best, and it'll last you forever..

http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M

This stuff also works, but washes away more quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/McGlaughlin-Oil-Petrol-Gel-Lubricant-4oz/dp/B01G5Y9Y7E

It's for sure expensive for so seemingly few applications, but you can really use this stuff everywhere. Doorknobs, squeaky hinges, tools, bicycles, etc...

As for the frequency of cleaning...

Since you are all stainless, it makes cleaning frequency kind of a contentious topic... The Brewer's Association currently advocates for every two weeks, but through commercial applications to hobby level, with stainless/vinyl contact, up to a four week interval can be permissible.. Especially on a direct draw system such as yours.

What would probably be most convenient, would be to clean every keg change using a little hand pump bottle like this:

http://www.micromatic.com/beer-line-cleaning-kits-and-equipment/deluxe-beer-line-cleaning-ck-1100

Super easy to use.. Remove the faucet and coupler, pack the lines with the cleaning solution and soak for 45 minutes. Use the leftover chemical from the soak to brush the faucets and couplers clean.. Rinse, reassemble, and your done.

You do have another option...

Some people opt to never clean, and instead just replace the length of line every few months. The coupler and faucets would still need to soaked and brushed, but using John Guest (push-to-connect) terminations, changing lines becomes fairly trivial.

A $25 dollar 100ft roll of barrier tubing would last you several replacements, and it will remain cleaner longer. The big drawback with barrier is that it more susceptible to kinking than vinyl is.. But it is better for the beer, and perfectly suited to your application. And you won't need any overpriced, questionable quality cleaning equipment... Just unplug the line, coil it up, and soak it.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-john-guest-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx

These fittings would attach to your couplers and and shanks, and just as before, you would use ~6ft of 3/16" ID barrier to get about 12psi of restriction. I don't know this website, but Accuflex's Bevlex 235 is the stuff I'd recommend.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/?gclid=CIDbk8OPj80CFUpahgodKNYITA

What's also cool about using a quick connect line, is that it simplifies pouring a larger range of carbonation levels and styles.

Say you want to put something on with a higher volume of Co2, let's say 3.0 v/v... To maintain carbonation at 38º, now you need you set your gauge to 17 psi. Your flow rate will now cause turbulent pouring since you only have ~12 psi of restriction.. A net 5 psi positive pressure will pour too fast. How can we fix it?

Just plug in a 8' length of line instead of 6', and you've balanced out the system.

Or maybe you have a barleywine or stout that you don't want to drink at 38ºF... At 2.5 v/v and 38ºF, you need about 12 psi of straight Co2. That same beer stored at 50ºF would need 18 psi to maintain 2.5 v/v, or it would de-gas and foam like crazy. With that badass controller you bought, adjusting the serving temperature is an option available to you.

You might be seeing flow control (restrictor) style faucets more prevalent these days.. As beer styles come out with greater ranges of carbonation, bars and restaurants can't just hack their system open to add/subtract a few feet of line, but the system still requires the restriction be dialed in to operate efficiently. So they restrict at the faucets because they can't restrict at the lines. Pretty neat..

Junky establishments won't care sometimes, and will potentially let the beer go flat using a lower (incorrect) pressure to get more manageable flow rate... Basically saying F you to the people that worked hard to make it. It's whack.

Enjoy your setup... I get super excited seeing people do this stuff right! That setup you built is going to make some people very happy.

u/AnontheMaus · 1 pointr/bikewrench

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.


u/E580BAEDA44A · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU?sa-no-redirect=1


---------------

The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.

A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.

If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.

Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.

Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.

Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.

Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.

If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.

I hope this helps.

u/Drocelot · 1 pointr/CZFirearms

I use high temp grease like you'd use in a grease gun to lube bearings, the particular brand is "Mobil grease xhp 222" but any decent grease should work. here's a link to the stuff I use, that lil mini grease gun thing the show in the recommended items is super fucking handy too.

https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Grease-XHP-SPECIAL-14-1/dp/B009VGEEM4

But I kinda go overboard and grease all possible contact points, like where the trigger bars ride against the frame, and I'll put a dab on the rear cage then smush it in with my finger so it can get worked into all the surfaces there and slicked everything up. Basically if any 2 pieces of metal are gonna touch I like them to be greased, the firing pin gets a tiny amount of oil, like 2 drops at most, and then I cycle the gun by hand a bunch and wipe up any excess.

Some q-tips and toothpicks make applying it a lot easier, that lil grease gun is a God send though, I highly recommend it.

And yeah the best part of the comp is how bad ass it looks, my brother was flipping out like "this shit looks like something out of metal gear" lol

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377

u/MGlBlaze · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Well if you're searching for lubricant, including "lubricant" in the search terms tends to help. I'm not entirely sure but something like this should work.

Another lubricant recommendation is electronics-grade white lithium grease like this. It's not regarded quite as good for plunger tubes/o-rings but is considered better for various other parts that rub against eachother. Though the actual difference is pretty minimal.

Edit; /u/Duke_Wintermaul seems to have a better silicone grease recommendation.

u/AFTERWAKE · 2 pointsr/Dirtbikes

It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.

WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.

If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.

I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.

LPTs:

  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/xEternalEcho · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.

Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.

Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.

u/hornyzucchini · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

They look okay for a bit longer to me. (from what I can see on the outside pad)















Here's how I go about with pad replacement intervals. I pull the pads out to see how they're doing where I can see the whole pad. I check for things like cracks that go down to the backing plate or of there's a chunk or something missing out of them. After that I check to see how much actual pad is left and if they're okay to keep on the vehicle or if I should get new brake pads. I use what's called a Tread Depth Gauge which I recommend everyone have at home. It's a cheap tool you can get at any auto parts store. While measuring brake pads if it's at 3/32 or below I replace the brake pads, or if the pad squealer is clearly making contact with the rotor. But if they're okay and while they're out I lube up the pad backing plate where it contacts on the piston or bracket, the sides of the pad where it sits on the bracket shims, and the slide pins. I use this stuff from AGS called Sil-Glyde. Works great. Just make sure not to get it on the actual pad itself.















But again with your original question from what I can see they look like they're getting there but okay to still use. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/CR10

As /u/Phil12312 pointed out, the brass coupling should have it's screws a little loose.

You may have a burr on the leadscrew that doesn't "move a little faster".

Try moving the leadscrew using the 1mm setting from the bottom to the top by hand see if you can spot it.

If there is a burr, you can smooth it by hand with a piece of fine (400 - 600 Grit) silicon carbide sanding paper.

Lubricant - \u\Dylanator13 's suggestion of 3-in-one Oil is just plain WRONG. (Sorry, Buddy! :-) )

It's fine that you used what you have handy, it's your machine. If you choose to mistreat it, that's between you and your machine. But PLEASE don't recommend this to anyone else, it's just wrong!

"There are many different suggestions of what lubricant to use online" - Yeah, and the majority of them are the blind leading the blind. Threaded rods need a fine GREASE, not a light OIL that breaks down quickly, and can run down the shaft fouling the stepper motor.

The proper lubricant for a leadscrew is a VERY THIN, EVEN application of either a Lithium based grease, or what many have found superior, a heavy duty PTFE based grease like Super Lube.

It has excellent lube properties, has a very long breakdown time (unlike many greases), and isn't prone to attracting dust which wears bearings.

Here's an Amazon Link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Dielectric-Synthetic-Authorized/dp/B00C5014K8


But I got mine here in the US at Ace Hardware (was actually MUCH cheaper!) :

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761

If you're in Europe, UK or Australia, I don't know where you can get it, maybe someone can jump in!


Let us know if you solve it, K?


PuterPro

u/artist508 · 1 pointr/airsoft

Watch some videos: Brian at Echo1 made a bunch of videos years ago on repairing and upgrading guns. My channel I haven't updated much over the past year but I do show how to take stuff apart.

Consider getting a cheap second gun to learn on.

Start small, something like swapping the inner barrel or hop rubber. Easy upgrades and fixes increase your confidence to attempt harder ones.

Tools:

Well lit area with a work mat or white bath towel. Don't try to fix your gun on your bedroom floor.

Regular philips and flat screwdrivers.

Precision screwdriver set like this cheap one or A far nicer one.

A set of metric allen keys

Hammer

Pin punches

Parts tray

Silicone plumbers grease or SuperLube Silicone grease. You can use this on everything. Lithium Moly is a better lubricant for metal parts though.


I'm sure I forgot something.

Edit: WTF formatting

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/kenabi · 7 pointsr/hardware

white lithium grease.

ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.

something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.

cheers.

u/kcpwnsgman · 1 pointr/GunPorn

No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.

When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.

When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.

Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.

u/MinnesotaTemp · 3 pointsr/cars

The biggest mistake I see mechanics do when changing the brake pads is how they deal with the brake caliper 'slide pins.' The slide pins being clean, rust free, and lubricated with the proper lubricant is very important to longevity of the pads.

What I see most mechanics do is either leave the slide pins alone or just use a petroleum-based 'brake grease' for the slide pins when they relube them. This will not do well, because the slide pins need a silicone-based caliper grease that will not eat the protective rubber boots that cover the slide pins. Many brake greases say "rubber safe" on the label when they actually are not (example Permatex Green Ultra brake grease). 3M's Silicone Paste is great for these pins, as well as Motorcraft XG3-A. Either one will do. Many times the boots will be swollen (due to petroleum grease eating away at it)

Also make sure he bleeds your brakes thoroughly to get that old dirty brake fluid out of the system. Many mechanics not do this when doing a cheap quick brake job because it means cracking open the bleeder screws (and possibly breaking them!) and dealing with that associated headache. Old fluid absorbs water and water rusts your brake lines from the inside out, as well as cause premature brake fade during heated stops.

It might be wise to also bring him the brake pad hardware (associated clips and shims) to go along with the pads and rotors.

Finally, find out what the pad manufacturer recommends for breaking in the brakes (bedding the brakes). Doing this is pretty important to proper smooth operation throughout its life.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/Qlanger · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

The CMS is the higher end version of Mevotech. I would rate it slightly higher than the Moog R series.

Get that one but make sure to use a good Moly grease to lube it up. It has a grease fitting so grease it up with good moly grease before installing.

Like this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-SL3330-Moly-Graph-Pressure-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000KKJQL4

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/innocent_bystander · 1 pointr/M1Rifles

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
 
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.

Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)

u/oFAILIXo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH

If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.

u/ender32708 · 1 pointr/ender3

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J041Cb6HXVCWF


Multipurpose Grease, XHP 222 SPECIAL, 14.1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VGEEM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v441CbAQWR8KJ


Any grease is better than none. It’s also helps quality. I use mobile grease, left over from my CNC repair days. One tube is a lifetime supply for the little you need, use a Q-Tip and apply a thin coat all the way up, Run your Z-axis all the way up and down, and apply a little every month. I use a old medication bottle to keep a small supply next to my machine. Keep the Q-tip in the bottle. When the grease turns a dirty white, just wipe away the extra and reapply. Do not use oil, that makes a mess and disappears. If you need to clean the Z axis rod and bearing, use mineral sprits on a clean rag and wipe it clean and dry, add new grease.

u/absspaghetti · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.

http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/applications/faqs.html

Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

That stuff is really good and not too heavy.

u/elahd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:

  1. Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
  2. Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
  3. Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
  4. Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
  5. Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
  6. Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)

    Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.

    My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.

    Hope this helps!
u/SSGTSemperFi · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I second Super Lube.

I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.

For high speed setups: Oil

For much more longevity: Grease

A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.

I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.

u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight

SuperLube

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HJlwDbSZTXJPN

NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/The_Nez · 1 pointr/paintball

Check the manual and parts guide and get some Dow 33 grease. And the maintenance is easy. There's YouTube videos on it. Basically just clean and re-grease the o-rings between each day of play.

u/jkkissinger · 7 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Make sure to clean the slide pins and their holes well. Then apply brake grease on the pins and in the hole. That should solve the issue.

This is what I use

u/jakeish_atelier · 1 pointr/ender3

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/ettibol · 4 pointsr/pelotoncycle

I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.

I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.

u/drsfmd · 3 pointsr/scooters

Having struggled with more rusted brake caliper hardware and rusted on drums than I care to talk about, I'm definitely in the school of mo-grease. This is my current favorite.

u/LJ-Rubicon · 3 pointsr/Jeep

Regular wd40 is not a lubricant, you have to break that habit. It's designed to clean electronics and rid them of water

White lithium is what you want

Wd40 even makes aerosol can of it

WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rxiMDbSJYX9XC

u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

"Disk Brake Quiet" Like this stuff from CRC which I use creates a rubber like film when it dries to stop metal chattering against itself. It is on the pad faces backings and they do not need to move once installed against the caliper bracket and caliper cylinder, so a lubricant is not needed.

As far as the grease Syl-Glide is silicone based and works very well. The Permatex Ceramic lube I use lists as being "Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber."

u/ParaBrutus · 2 pointsr/ar15

I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.

There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-720-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-4&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/CheetyPants · 1 pointr/xbox360

The only time I ever had an issue with my elite was after having it for a long long time(about five years as well) chances ate it's the same issue I had which was the pancake motor not spinning well more and more each day.
I went online and asked if I could grease it up with WD40, but was told because of how fast the discs spin it would evaporate real quick. Got suggested to use ceramic brake grease because of it's high temp tolerance.

Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TnWpDbR9N4XCM

Hadn't had a disc problem since. All you need to do is take the part that disc sits on off of the motor, grease up the lil rod, put it back together, and you should be fine.

Also you should be able to get the grease in an auto parts store really cheap, usually up by the registers in little test packets.

u/BorisMoreso · 3 pointsr/Nerf

The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.

I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.

MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.

u/pants6000 · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

What makes bicycle grease special is the bicycle-themed containers and large mark-up.

Here's what I've been using for the last few years:

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM

And I still have like 80% left of that $5 container.

Do throughly clean out the old grease as much as possible and try to avoid mixing greases, they are not all compatible.

u/NewAgeTraveler · 1 pointr/overclocking

Hahaha, I'm actually using an H100i with some shitty subpar thermal paste. I went online, did some researching and purchased this paste after many tests proving it to be the most potent in terms of cooling.

I'm expecting my temperatures to drop a solid 5-10C. I idle around approximately 32C, more than likely will be at 28 or below with the new paste.

The reason I'm expecting such a significant decrease is because I'm also adding 3 new fans to increase air-flow.

  • 200MM NZXT Fan
  • Two 140MM NZXT Fan

    Can't wait. :)
u/SSChicken · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.

u/Ratus_ · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Links are fine.

Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.

I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.

u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/MadaMadaDesu · 7 pointsr/flashlight

Superlube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484767208&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch

$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.

Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.

u/medialyte · 3 pointsr/howto

Yes... in fact, it appears that WD-40 now makes one with their awesome flip-top straw cans!

https://www.amazon.com/Specialist-Lithium-Grease-Spray-White/dp/B00MIWVKPM

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Super Lube Grease and Oil

u/Polikonomist · 1 pointr/prusa3d

The most important thing is to not mix natural and synthetic grease. White lithium based grease, like this one I use, is most recommended.

u/PMMeAGiftCard · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.

u/nubbinator · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd use Superlube. It's cheap, works great, and is non-reactive with the plastic.

u/Wolf_Hook · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.

u/HeuristicWhale · 1 pointr/CalPoly

WD-40 will get you most of the way there, but you really want something with a higher viscosity, like white lithium grease. For $5 you can get enough to fix every squeak on campus: https://www.amzn.com/B00MIWVKPM/

Edit: you can also put in a service request through your Cal Poly portal, but that will take forever.

u/gogosolar · 1 pointr/fountainpens

there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example

u/GTechAirsoft · 1 pointr/airsoft


Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDXBDbZ1BRJ18

u/AAA515 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?

Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?

u/Shensmobile · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.

Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3

Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2

Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.

u/Metro-Redneck · 1 pointr/Tools

I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.

Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.

u/HungryMacaroon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?

Thanks in advance!

u/dankchia · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> costar stabs are the worst!

Fight me.

They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI?redirect=true&pldnSite=1

Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.

u/jysim911 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got these lube and grease.
Krytox GPL 207 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLD61A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wUmCCbTXMAEDQ

CRC 05109 0.5 Ounces Technician... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCIDAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The grease goes on anything metal and the lube goes on plastic to plastic contact.

This guy's channel was very helpful and informative for me! You should check it out.
/u/taehatypes
https://youtu.be/cD5Zj-ZgMLA

u/spilk · 1 pointr/LaserDisc

should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/

u/GooberMcNutly · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube

u/pandeomonia · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

That's probably your brake pad ears rubbing against your brake clips. I had new pads and rotors installed and had the same problem until I took the pads out and lubed the clips and pad ears. It's about $18 a bottle and lasts forever. You might also want to pull your caliper pins and lube them up as well otherwise your caliper might be stuck pressing your pads into the rotors (use a different lube for that). Most dealer brake places don't do it, but good auto shops do (here's a South Main Auto brake change video).

u/mr___ · 1 pointr/DIY

probably a readily available NLGI 1 or 2 ("peanut butter" consistency) general purpose grease, maybe http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV608-Multi-Purpose-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B000GAP43C . A similar grease should be available in pretty much every auto parts store.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/hoggit

Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI

I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.

u/Breadland · 1 pointr/n64

Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?

Thanks for the advice!

u/galactica_pegasus · 1 pointr/Volvo

Mine have been quiet. MUCH better brakes than my previous Acura. The Acura didn't stop as well and had much more of a "pulsing" feeling. The only downside to the Volvo brakes is they do generate a LOT of black brake dust. But just wash your car and it's gone!

If you're getting a squeak when breaking then I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubricating the brake hardware. You can have a shop do this, or if you do it yourself, this is a great lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU

u/EngineeredMadness · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

My gas toolbox:

Teflon Tape

Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)

Extra tubing for gas and beverage

Extra barb-swivel nut fittings

Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks

Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.

Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).

Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool

Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)

Extra picnic taps

Extra QDs

Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment

​

u/mynameisalso · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

This is what I use. I can't think of anything better. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AOgOyb0Y4T5SS

u/Cronus_k98 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496931353&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+white+lithium+grease

u/theuautumnwind · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Silicone lube is good for rubber.

AGS SG8 Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hZf-AbKC79YQV

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/desmosabie · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I just replaced my switch assembly and starter relay. Initial problem was as you mentioned. Had manual and next thing in the list to test was relay, friend showed up and shorted with a screw driver. Bike fired right up. He said thats the problem, $10 @ ebay and easy fix that didnt work. Dissassembled switch cause it was a little sticky, had to pull it out after starting once in a while or it'd keep spinning the starter motor, and watched what happened when hitting the button. The button moved, as it should, but also moved the button seat on the inside of the housing. So, sometimes worked, sometimes stuck, sometimes didn't work at all. The button is similar to shorting the relay in that it just connects the circuit long enough to start the bike. So I went to the local bike recycle place and dug through bins of handlebar housings untill I found a switch that looked like mine inside and out. $40 dollars and an hour later I was starting the bile every time with ease. Some $11 liquid electrical tape on the button seat wire connections that had split wire housings due to all the moving around while inspecting and di-electric grease made all the moving parts and plug connections lubed and water tight. I took a vid too if you're interested...

u/Vubor · 1 pointr/NewSkaters

Someone here on reddit posted something like this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58 will also work.

​

But I cant confirm this!

u/zombimuncha · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?

u/crj3012 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.

u/ChelseaManning · 1 pointr/Coffee

Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo

this is the stuff i use

u/mirinfashion · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If those slide pins end up seizing, you'll probably end up with uneven brake pad wear and random noises coming from your brakes (this is caused because the brake pads are still in contact with the rotor even if you release the brakes Those pins are what guides the pads to the rotor at the correct angle. If they're seized, you'll end up with stuck calipers that grind even if you're not braking. The grease is cheap, so there really isn't a reason not to do it. The bottle below will last a lifetime. Also, make sure those rubber boots are intact, if they're ripped, replace them.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W

u/chidizzle · 1 pointr/longboarding

Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?

u/don_the_spubber · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.

u/Aezoc · 2 pointsr/hotas

I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.

u/RebootRevival · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.

u/Boner-b-gone · -1 pointsr/Whatcouldgowrong

By the way, there really is such a thing as headlight/blinker light fluid. It's more like a thin paste, it's conductive, and it's oil based so it keeps the contacts from corroding if they get exposed to Amy moisture.

And no, I'm not shitting you.

u/leftnose · 1 pointr/Shotguns

They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.

If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.

At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.

u/Feb_13th · 3 pointsr/VacuumCleaners

I would apply a thin film of white lithium grease. You can buy it almost anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA

u/RugerRedhawk · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Most decent pads come with little packets of grease you can use, or you can buy a big bottle of the same stuff. Example:

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/

u/red_hen · 0 pointsr/LifeProTips

SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Th9Cub10EB47C made just for what you are asking for.

u/CalT2410 · 2 pointsr/FRC

We've got a tube of this that works wonders on all sorts of gearboxes.

u/silentstorm2008 · -11 pointsr/Frugal

I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.

For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items

u/Hillside_Strangler · 15 pointsr/Frugal

> I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25[1] or they won't ship it out.

That's not how it works. Add-on items are not Prime-eligible, but when you add them to a $25 order with other Prime items, they'll ship as if they're Prime.

http://i.imgur.com/7ZyfTLn.png

Your grease is not Prime-Eligible

But this grease is Prime-Eligible

u/nauticalmile · 7 pointsr/guns

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA

You can probably get it cheaper at your local Walmart or auto parts store.

u/Trollygag · 1 pointr/guns

If you need grease grease, I use this or this depending on what I'm greasing.

But for oil, I use Ballistol or Hoppes oil.

u/Yonkiman · 2 pointsr/voroncorexy

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

u/thebearjuden · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.

u/bluelaba · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Anti-seize is good stuff but not really good for moving parts. Something that is going to be rotating or touching something rotating at extreme speeds is going to need high temp grease on it. Check this

u/gilbadon · 2 pointsr/MTB

Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)


With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519748163&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube

You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.

Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.

u/TTRSkidlz · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I had a problem like this on an old Portastudio.

I put some white lithium grease on the friction-prone portions of the head assembly. That is, any surface that slid against another surface, barring the head itself.

It took some finagling to get it in all the right spots. Then I had to manually move the assembly back and forth, but it eventually started engaging/disengaging normally.

u/galoisfieldnotes · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.

u/MuadDave · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Depending on how its configured, you might consider spray lithium 'grease' (after cleaning out the existing crud with an appropriate solvent). It is waterproof, non-conducting, and doesn't attract dust/fuzzle.

u/nexusheli · 6 pointsr/rccars

Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.

The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421952488&sr=8-1&keywords=light+grease that stays inside the bearing.

u/PaultheSloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-FamilyValue-kes-Super/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1

No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?

u/AirsoftSniperz · 1 pointr/airsoft

No, but similar. It's [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469891298&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube) There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much

u/Lunarpancake · 1 pointr/paintball

As others have said just go with DOW 33......you can find a giant tube of it on Amazon under Dow Corning Molykote 33. Or this link : http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450356580&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=dow+33+mo

I shoot and tech the vanquishes and luxes for my team and bought a single tube of this 2+ yrs ago and I still have a ton left.

u/baby_feet · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.

u/Aesomatica · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.

Don't overdo it, look up a guide.

And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.

u/ctyt · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.

u/portedtoreality · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:

https://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Sewing-Machine-Oil/dp/B000H8Q41Y

For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI

Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.


Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).


Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.

u/kungfu_jesus · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=twister_B01N5IYUDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.

u/RyanCacophony · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.

I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted

u/BigTung · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)

$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)

$25 Keycaps

$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)

Total Cost: $270

​

Next Upgrades:

$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2

$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)

$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant

$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set

u/BronyTheBarbarian · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).

The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.

But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.