Reddit mentions: The best automotive insulation

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

Unfortunately, you don't. I use this and this (depending on the thickness of case and room behind PCB), and it works awesome, but I bought them knowing I was going to be building a lot of keyboards.

It was worth the money. Hard to say if it's worth the money just for a single keyboard, but since I have bought $160 cases or switches that are almost $2 each, $40 really doesn't seem like a bad deal to have a god-tier insulated case.

My girlfriend has just a regular old GMMK that I gave her, and this past weekend I disassembled the entire thing, removed the staiblizers, clipped/lubed them, and then put Dynaliner in the case. The Dynaliner made a HUGE difference to the feel and sound profile of the board. Mmmmm, it's good stuff.

I never thought of using dynamat before..... I quickly googled around for cheap alternatives because my recollection of that stuff from my super cool high school days with 2 15's in the trunk of my sweet Saturn was that it is expensive. I came up with this looks promising, I could do the transmission tunnel and bed line it.

Can you not buy a self install kit? If they don't give you the option to get your own modem that's lame. They may be the only cable company in the area but can you not get something through the phone company or get U-verse? I know cable internet is awesome, but if they are giving you the run around it might be a good idea to see your options. At least call the other providers and ask their rates and their install charges and try to make Comcast match it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBK48XN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qKnYCbYTY38F0

And he's right, it's awesome. I didn't even use the roller they say you need.. Still works amazing

Thinsulate, used about 1.5 sheets You might want to get the longer roll rather than end up buying 2 shorter rolls like I did

Noico deadener mats

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Aluminized-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 or https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14130-Sided-Thermo-Retardant/dp/B001GFW5Q0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3 ?

It's an off brand, but works just as well . I used 2 rolls for the cabin, I didn't cover the cargo area.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PILLZG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1373082850&sr=8-2&pi=SL75

> Butyl

Yeah I plan on buying THIS and adhering it to the bottom of the keyboard. It comes with five sheets so I may use the rest to insulate the case.

Mine had mostly rotten old insulation (next to none) and then I stripped it all out and installed this stuff and it rules. Could use a double layer, but keeps a LOT more heat out. Had it installed for about 2 years and I see no signs of melting, dripping or falling off. Installed it with the help of a heat gun and rubbing it on with a nice big smooth river rock from the back yard. Store in a cool dry place. I accidentally left mine on top of my shop fridge and it stuck to itself so hard that I couldn't even use it. It's like Dynamat only WAY cheaper and a little thinner. Installing plywood covered with carpet padding and then the carpet itself made things WAY quieter but this definitely made a difference by itself too, especially with heat. I wish I'd have installed it above the trans underneath the van before installing the transmission to keep some heat off the floor between the seats. Tired of all my drinks and food getting warm when I forget and leave my lunchbox/cooler between the front seats.

I changed my shipping address to Canada and Amazon came up with this.

3M Thinsulate Acoustic/Thermal Insulation SM400L (20' x 60")

Not a block heater. Not a coolant heater. Use an oil heater pad. Use high temp RTV and glue it on. These go from 15 to 150 watts. Just don't leave them on overnight, you'll burn your oil. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Automotive-Electric-Silicone-Heating/dp/B079G7P27S

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I've never heard of thermal expansion issues; it is an engine.

Link

https://www.amazon.de/Bitumenmatte-Droehn-Matte-50x20cm-selbstklebend/dp/B00B9CURQK

I've got the Kollosus sound deadener

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

Is that one good?https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Dampening-Absorption-Excellent/dp/B07PTMM81B/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=silverstone+insulation&qid=1565648895&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Find ways of protecting yourself while you're sitting still and sleeping, as that's when you're most vulnerable. I've written about radiosurgery, which is the act of destroying select tissue with electromagnetic radiation. There's a real threat of permanent brain damage. Do what it takes to stay healthy.
What is your budget?

I've tried the following (from /r/emshielding sidebar):

• Twin-size 8ft x 4ft conductive blanket: PET felt sandwiched around a copper layer (copper taped to the PET felt's aluminum backing), w/ground braid to wall outlet. Try without grounding first. Use hot glue for a flexible bond between the layers.
  
• Aluminum panels connected end-to-end with aluminum tape, with outer copper flashing layer, around the perimeter of a bedframe, to test nearby horizontal line-of-sight vectors (even if through the walls).
  
• Steel panels coated with layers of butyl rubber products for damping.
  
  I would recommend instead of the above (which was me prototyping and testing vectors), do it the right way the first time, and build my ventillated sleeping enclosure (~$1,000 for aluminum, plus add'l layers), and coat it with layers of shielding materials (copper flashing > butyl > sheet steel > buytl > sheet lead > butyl), until you achieve complete relief. Don't skimp on the fans and power supplies.