(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive paint & pain supplies

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

• 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  
• A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  
• Granite slabs
  
• Metal File
  
• Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  
• Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  
• Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  
• Spray Adhesive
  
• Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  
• Rags
  
• Murphy's Wood Soap
  
• Olde English Wood Restorer
  
  I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
  
  I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
  
  The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
  
  Albums
  -------
  
• Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  
• Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  
• Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  
• Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete
  
  For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
  
  > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
  
  > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
  > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
  > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
  > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
  > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
  > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
  
  It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
  > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
  
  Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
  
  

1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
   
2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
   
3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
   
4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
   
5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
   
6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
   
7. Repainted bed if necessary.
   
8. Reassembled
   
9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
   
10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
    
11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
    
12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
    
13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
    
14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
    
15. Test!
    
    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
    
    --------------------------------------------
    
    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?

Heh, I'll admit that I've been rude with such information and that was wrong of me.

I was wronged before, but that's no way to act towards other. I do sincerely apologize, I believe it was in regards to my paint techniques and sealants?

Let me share properly, with easy links! :D

I live by Krylon products, they're the best spray paints for using Posca Paint pens on. My most used Krylon products are:

-Krylon Chalky Finish

-Krylon Short Cuts these are a bit glossy so far, and haven't tested them with the paint pens yet. Will post once I do! Also do SUUUPER LIGHT COATS as it will bubble and look like crap, they aren't meant for plastic :D

-U-Pol Products 0796 Clear CLEAR#1 High Gloss Coat - 450ml for sealant You can apply a fresh coat after 1 hour, gives enough time for it to "cure" and allows you to see how much more you need! I do 3-4 coats for a super glossy finish! :D

-Posca paint pens for drawing me and my wife both live by these things, they're absolutely fabulous.

Again, I do sincerely apologize. We're all human behind these screen names and letters, surrounded by digital information and electricity. I'm no different, and prone to making mistakes.

Hope that helps make things a little better. Cheers man! Again, congrats on a gorgeous system.

To show my true honesty and being sorry, if you send me your system I'll backlight and bivert it - plus ship it back to you for free.

It's not all about the work and business, it's about making good friendships along the way. PM Me if you're interested bro.

Thank you! It seriously looks way better in pictures than person. I made legions of mistakes while doing it. Here's a better pic of the car with the two-tone black and blue: http://imgur.com/tBzpxnj

A couple of things I learned though:

Definitely get a big compressor. The compressor I used had a relatively small tank and was weak. If the compressor is running a lot it can create moisture in the air. Additionally, you don't want to spray while it's running because it'll create pulses in the spray pattern. I painted the black hood and stripes once I had the car back in Texas with a proper compressor and it went way smoother.

Spray more layers than you think you need. I thought I could get away with 3 to 4 layers of color. I should have gone with 6 to 8. The pros will say that's too much, but the pros don't wetsand half of it away to fix imperfections. More paint means you have more real estate to work with after the spray to sand it back and make it mirror smooth.

I would definitely spray a clear coat. The Bellett was parked outside in the elements in Japan for about 2 years before bringing it to the States, and while that didn't ruin the paint job, the constant washing with random towels that I do to keep it somewhat clean put lots of tiny scratches in the paint. Normally, I could buff these out, but a lack of clear combined with not enough layers of color sprayed means I can't do any buffing for fear it'll burn through the color and the primer will start showing.

Also, go with solid colors. I sprayed a solid blue/black on the Bellett and it's so much easier than trying to get some fancy mica or metallic to work. Because I'm a cheapskate, I used Speedokote Jet Black (https://www.amazon.com/High-Gloss-Black-Acrylic-Urethane/dp/B00TXDP85W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492625678&sr=8-1&keywords=speedokote+jet+black) for the gloss black bits (hood, stripes, cowl). It's super easy to work with, sprays evenly, and has a nice strong finish. Plus, it's cheap! You can see on Amazon it's like $80 for a gallon kit, which is enough paint to paint a whole car. So, if you just want a jet black car (with no clear), you could get some high build primer and the Speedokote Jet Black and still be under $200 in materials.

Ventilation is important, but more so for your health than the paint job. If you're doing a garage job, there's nothing you can do to keep gunk, dust and stuff out of the paint. That's another reason why I suggest spraying lots of coats. You can wetsand some of the stuff back to a smooth, clean finish. The ventilation helps pull the paint floating in the air out, which keeps it from getting so smokey in the room that you can't see. However, when I did the hood and stripes on the Bellett, I had no ventilation at all and if anything, the paint worked out better than the blue did (which I hung up plastic sheets and had a ton of fans to try to emulate a proper booth as best as I could).

Hope that helps and good luck with the quarter panels!

http://drcolorchip.com/ For the rock chips.

For prevention, yes 3M Clear Bra would be a good choice.

However, good news! 3M released a new product (paint defender) recently, that works like the clear bra, but is spray on, and a fraction of the cost.

I have not seen any reviews on it yet, but if I didn't recently get a clear bra installed on my new car, you can bet I would have given this a try...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368664866&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=3m+paint+defense

Sooo, I would go over it with the Dr. Color Chip kit, fix the paint chips to the best of your ability, and then try out the 3M Paint Defender for future prevention...

As for the Clear Bra, you get mixed reviews yes, but I have had one installed for about 3 weeks now, and I can say it has been tremendous. A lot of the negative reviews come from people who fail to take care of the clear bra or have some off-brand material installed... In short, if you don't maintain it, yes, it will turn into a brown pile of shit in a few years. But if you do maintain it, there is nothing to worry about. Also, from certain angles you can see portions of the lines of the clear bra on the hood, but it's really no big deal. Here is a super close up of my hood, and notice the line (barley observable): http://i.imgur.com/e0PywKa.jpg Here is a side shot (the clear bra goes about half way up the fender as well- you can't notice it at all here): http://i.imgur.com/78fHEoj.jpg

Also, I can tell you that this has already saved the front portion of my car from what would've been at least 3 very heavy rock chips.

Edit: I just noticed the 3M Paint Defender kit is sold out and listed as an Amazon exclusive... it must be doing pretty well.

I read an article on this once but cant find it now....

First of all, try to read up on review and find out what acutally works. Don't just buy paint that is marketed as working on hi temp parts. Get the highest temperature rating possible (I found this, and this clear coat. If you really want to go whole hog, you can get primer. Probably not necessary though.


Anyway prepping properly IS SUPER IMPORTANT! Make sure you sand off any rust, and clean with a good degreaser (I like dawn dishsoap, but hey to each their own). If you really want to go all out, sand the entire thing. This is just good paint prep in general though.

When painting, apply multiple coats as thinly as possible (don't let it gob up.) I would do like 4 coats of base, plus 2-3 of clear coat. Make sure and wait a good amount of time for it to dry between coats.

After you are done painting and have the exhaust installed back on (at least a full day after painting), warm it up slowly. So start and run the bike for like a minute, then shut it off for 5. Do this several times, then start increasing the run time. This allow the paint to temper without as much initial stress. After that just ride it, it will bake fully over the next week or so.

If you don't really care about looks or longevity, just get BBQ/grill paint, mask off the areas around the exhaust, and spray that sucker without even taking it off. Should last you at least a year.

I haven't done this yet, but I plan to in the next few months.

Strip:
To strip paint for aluminum or steel you can use a paint stripper or wire brush. You can also do media blasting, but only if you plan to powdercoat afterwards, because it leaves small dings in the frame. To strip a carbon frame sand it by hand. For any frame type, you don't need to strip to the bare material, but can use the existing paint as a primer.

Prime:
I use Duplicolor Self Etching Primer, with good results. It was like $24 for a 6 pack when I got it, I don't know why it's so expensive now. You could try a different self etching primer, or look for Duplicolor for cheaper. Sand down after each coat, usually a grit of 400 - 600 is good or use a lower grit if it is not smooth.


To Paint:
For DIY paint jobs you can use rattle cans or an airbrush. Sand after each coat, again starting with around 400 - 600 grit. It's hard to give specific advice for paint because there are so many different ones, and all would probably do an okay job.

Clear:
It depends how much money you want to spend. Cheap rattle clears are not durable, but the more durable 2k spray clears are expensive and toxic. I've read that you can use an airbrush for 2 part clear, but have not tried it yet.

I'm still organizing it, but my "kit" includes:

• DSLR Camera, prime lenses, camera bag
  
  
• Wooden yard stick (Scale bar and setting depth of field)
  
  
• IR remote control for camera (more steady camera triggering)
  
  
• Tripod on casters for faster shot setups
  
  
• Athlete's foot spray ($1 each at the dollar store)
  
  
• Developer's spray / Dulling spray
  
  
• temporary/removable rubberized paint (basecoat before spraying perm. paint) example
  
  
• Multi-colored textured spray paint Example
  
  
• Powder duster for applying inexpensive dust to objects. I haven't perfected this process. It's messy and the powder can change appearance between camera shots and spoil your entire photoshoot. I'd still like to figure out a better way because flour, baking soda, baby powder, and other dusty substances are far cheaper than spraypaint and athlete's foot spray.
  
  
• retractable kabuki brush for applying powder. I'm still experimenting with this, but it's a standard item included with the NextEngine 3D Scanner and they recommend applying talc powder to a lanolin base.
  
  
• Smart phone with lightmeter app, depth-of-field calculator app
  
  
• "Muslin" quick-clamps to drape a bedsheet behind object to diffuse lighting
  
  
• log book for optimal camera settings (dry erase board is faster for me)
  
  
• dry erase board for snapping a pic of my settings
  
  
• stickers for registration marks. I have only tried ordinary circular stickers without the computer generated encoded targets and have so far been disappointed with the results.
  
  There's probably more, but that's all I can think of for now.
  
  FUTURE ITEMS:
  
  
• $10 Lazy susan turntable from Ikea
  
  
• CNC controlled camera gantry for automated image capturing
  
  
• Field monitor for easier camera focusing. It's much harder on the small camera display.
  
  
• WiFi enabled camera or a WiFi enabled SD memory card
  
  
• A light tent - preferably with an entire setup with variable LED lighting from reddit user /u/Iontrades_
  
  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iontrades/lite-studio-all-in-one-photo-studio-and-3d-scanner
  
  
• Green screen backdrop for experimenting with the automask feature in 3DF Zephyr software. I may also experiment with other backdrop colors, threadcounts, and thicknesses to optimize contrast (between the workpiece and backdrop) and optimize lighting.
  
  
• Experimental mixture of white baby powder, black pepper, and acetone to make it stick together. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm hoping that the acetone would help it stick to the workpiece and quickly evaporate.

This helps immensely! Is this spray - http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1635-Ceramic-Semi-Gloss-Engine/dp/B000GKEXVQ

Can I ask what you typically do with the handles? I'll be able to use the originals on most of them (one tote was cracked and repaired, so I've bought a replacement). The issue with this is the replacement is still the original dark, and doesn't quite match the others. I'm sure they are all rosewood, just differing states of wear. Do you sand back and stain when you restore? If so, some advice for an original look would be great!

Thanks again for the reply.

Silicone won't last up there, but can be a temporary fix. Keep in mind you will have to remove it and clean the area quite well when you do the permanent fix. Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant is what you need. I provided the link so you could see the label. Camping World will carry it for sure, if you have one near you. I am not sure if Lowe's or Home Depot carry it. This is THE solution you need.

Always loved that body style. Definitely a head turner. I used Dicor self-leveling Lap Sealant on my Transits Maxair fan, good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lap+sealant&qid=1568246948&sr=8-4

I used SEM Trim Black with great results. I used an adhesion promoter first. 1+ year on the flare looks the same as the day I painted it.

The problem with bed liner is that it's textured - and you have to strip/sand it all of if you end up not liking the textured look. But it's great if you like the look!

That blue is nice and bright. You can plastidip paint your wheels, and you can use that for your handles & emblems as well. These are the handles I have, the carbon is matte-ish and the black is glossy. And here's the chrome trim. I have the matte on mine. As far as covering the chrome on the grill, some people have replaced that part with the black variant and some people plastidip spray it.

Dipped rims are easy, cheap, and look great. I dipped mine about 8 months ago with this kit (had a can left over) and there's been 0 wear/peeling/damage on them in that time. They even hold up going through the car wash. Only complaint is the matte finish is a bitch to keep clean.

I don't know why you would go with duct tape. Yeah it's cheaper, but... $30 is still pretty cheap :/

My 2013 Genesis Coupe has significant chips in the paint. I'd recommend getting a clear bra, or something to protect it.

I just bought the 3M Paint Defender System to hopefully stop further damage.

I did a base black coating first since the metallizers are supposed to be used on top of coated surfaces. I used this particular color: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kMipybMQK4V7D

I also added the armorall tire shine on top of the plastidipped wheels. Someone on the camaro6 forums recommended it to help increase the life of the coating and ease cleaning.

I didn't take the wheels off the car because I didn't have a good pinch weld jack support....I didn't even take off the lug nuts since we can't rotate the wheels anyway. For protecting my brakes from overspray I cut strips from a plastic painting sheet.

I used 80 grit sandpaper paper and an orbital sander over the whole thing. You definitely aren't trying to break through the paint just scuff/etch the paint.

If you break through the paint use #8 https://www.amazon.com/U-POL-ACID-PRIMER-M-I-R-COMPLIANT/dp/B003ZWDZ9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?keywords=raptor+bed+liner&qid=1550451327&s=gateway&sr=8-28

1. Wash with a non wax based car wash.
   
   
2. Paper off all areas you don't want sprayed.
   
   
3. Sand vehicle. I used 80 grit.
   
   
4. Wash car again.
   
   
5. Spray areas that broke through with #8 primer.
   
   
6. Spray vehicle. Do a good tac coat first. I waited a good 30min to an hour between coats. I sprayed in a straight horizontal formation. If you change your mind half way through and start to go up and down you'll see cross streaks. Keep it consistent.
   
   This is in a nutshell what I did. Seemed to work out for me. I would have loved to have been more detailed but I'm doing this all from my phone on vacation.
   
   

A magician never reveals his secrets.
...but I'm not a magician, so here goes:
There are actually two different paints behind this look. The first is a metallic coating (for this I used the Rustoleum Bright Reflective Finish), which gives the reflective property. The actual color comes from anodized automotive spray (Duplicolor's popular for this kind of stuff). Combine reflective finish with red anodized paint and boom: red chrome.
TL;DR: combine these for shiny:
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/metallic/
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EMC200007-Metal-Anodized-Color/dp/B000994BUM

I'm not so sure it's the primer. I used this stuff (Krylon), which was actually recommended on Reaper's site somewhere. All the bones minis that I primed about 8 weeks ago but didn't paint are dry and non-sticky.

My guess is that either the acrylic I'm using or Dullcote is reacting to one or all three items, but any suggestions are welcome!

For the plastic, clean clean clean.

For surface prep, Don't laugh, but I whip blasted them with the sandblaster. Yes it leaves it rough and ugly. Your spraying on bedliner, no one will ever know.

Edit in, Clean it after you sand blast it. or thoroughly scuff it with 80-120 grit sand paper.

Upol Adhesion promoter


Then their acid 8 Primer.

Last Raptor bed Liner

I did the valance, fender flairs in tintatable white on my 03 Sierra. I also did the plastic pieces for the rear bumper and the plastic bed rail piece in black . Even after a year of stepping on the bumper constantly it's held up well.

I'm actually going to give it another try I peeled all that dip off..

and ordered some of the graphite pearl metalizer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYENX1U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you do a couple layers of black plasti dip, and then a couple layers of this it will give you a nice glossy dark gunmetal finish, watch some youtube vids on it they are helpful

I will be doing this to the grill, side trim and rims when I return from vacation.

feather edge better, those primer lines will show up... I learned the hard way. paintscratch offers a good color match spary. you can buy 2k clearcoat on there too. Heres instructions for a rusthole and a youtube VIDEO on how to color match spray.

You have to blend to match the edges. and scuff with scuff it

I've got a bunch of things that I rattle can painted and they quit smelling after a few days. There are definitely a bunch of down sides to spray painting your shoes though, like what if sweat releases the paint and you have half chrome feet for a month.

Fabric spray : Dupli-Color HVP106 Flat Black High Performance Vinyl and Fabric Spray - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aBB7ybV3KD6QQ

Chrome bumper: Krylon Looking Glass Silver-Like Aerosol Spray Paint 6 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003971BAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iAB7ybV60J0S1

This should be a sticky or in the sidebar of every car-related subreddit. They make a special UV-reactive tracer dye you can add to your coolant to find leaks. Here is an example of such a product:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFHNTM/

You add it to your coolant, run the engine to mix it through the system, and then at night you can spot leaks with a UV flashlight that makes the dye glow brightly.

This is matte automotive clear coat- Amazon. It's the only matte 2k clear coat I've found

I love you so much for this idea right now. buying a carousel as we speak.

EDIT: For anyone that actually wants to buy one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

VHT is popular for heat/flame resistant paint.

• Here is their primer
  
  
• Here is their colored coating
  
  
• And they have a satin coating
  
  I think proper cure procedure is idle 20 min then cool 20 min, idle 30 min then cool 30 min, then run it normally for 30 min or so (ride it around). You can also bake it in the oven to cure it if the muffler on the bike won't get hot enough.
  
  Some people have very good results with this paint. I think it's very sensitive to prep and application. Have to lightly scuff or sand the surface. Then thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol or something to get all the dirt and grime off. Start off with a couple of light coats then start spraying heavier and heavier.
  
  I have not tried this myself but I did order it last week. I removed the mufflers on my bike and I plan on painting the underpipe section.

What do you think about this? I was thinking I could get away with 4 or 5 cans. Does chassis saver do something special besides make a rugged protective layer (like adhere better than a bed liner spray)? If you don't know I certainly welcome speculation.

Thanks so much! Sounds like 1 bottle will work but then again waiting 2 days for another isn't the end of the world.

Are you talking about this type of spray?

Thanks!

Amazon!

There are actually candy and candy like sprays that are primarily used for cars. Think that could work? Or would that kinda paint be to much for gunpla plastic?

examples: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000994BUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411884379&sr=8-3&keywords=spray+paint+candy+red

http://www.amazon.com/Candy-Apple-Aerosol-Paint-3-5oz/dp/B003JCRGSA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411884468&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+paint+candy+red

No you use something like scuff-it, and a grey scotch brite to scuff the panel without going too deep. I wouldn't use a rattle can, paint guns are inexpensive especially for one time use. Any autobody supply store can mix a quart of single stage that will come out a lot better and last longer than rattle can

Butyl tape or Dicor underneath. Either the leveling or the Gravity-Defying version.

Then the fan.

Then Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant around the edge - it oozes into the cracks and crevices. I used three layers, the first a small bead that I watched slide right under the seam! Then a couple big beads to spread and coat the area.

And I followed the Dicor with EternaBond over top of the seam.

As seen here.

Most auto stores have it, However its over priced there.

The yellow glasses really help it stand out.

1 fl Oz. per 5 quarts oil (i just put the whole thing in)

to see it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBWCFC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000JFHNTM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00Q58RG12DHKWS8S16QS

Dye:
Since i use it alot (for customers cars)

http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416339375&sr=1-2&keywords=uv+leak+dye

Use SEM trim paint. It's extremely easy to use and gives an OEM matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

You can use an etching primer. Then go for the base color coat.

Just make sure you let them sit for at least 72 hours to let them outgas and cure. then you should be fine to screw them in. Just don't go too crazy with rough-housing them.

DupliColor Vinyl Dye is probably the least prep-intensive and best product for base coats. The downside is that it comes in limited colors and is a bit harder to get your hands on than conventional spray paint. Check your local automotive stores, or the auto section of your supermarket. Flat black is recommended.

I use 2 of these. They arent portable but I always paint at my desk

https://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481692190&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+organizer

It fits vallejo and citadel and im sure testors since thats who makes it.

My buddy at work today mentioned using some of [this stuff] (https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM). They make other brands and cheaper versions etc. It's UV dye that will show up under a black light, it's made for finding these kinds of leaks. He said that it will work much better than soapy water (the soapy water might not work with the fuel system) Pour the dye in the gas tank run the car for a bit and use a blacklight to check out the lines the tank etc.

I'd like to make it black. What are your thoughts on plastidip? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KYU719O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1418138546&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I could have sworn I've seen rattlecan versions. I'm sure it's not as durable, but for our application it may be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BAA2010-Bed-Armor-Aerosol/dp/B004SJ16QG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333480034&sr=8-1

Clean off the engine and put some UV dye into the oil.

VHT SP115 FlameProof Coating Satin Clear Paint Can - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CPJLGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5QsRDb69PXSFK

Before any mentions it... yes that awful display surround has been changed... A little over a year and no issues with peeling or cracking in NC weather.

Just do a bunch of layers of adhesive spray, some paint and a couple of uv protective coats of flat clear. Set aside a whole day if you plan to rip everything out like I did.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EHVP10600-Black-Performance-Fabric/dp/B00098PO3G

For those, like me, who don't build plastic models:

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/

They have it at Home Depot/Lowes for sure. Or you could just get a 4 pack on Amazon.

Here they are.

light Bar

Winch

Winch Hook

This might be the bumper on amazon. Not 100% sure. Bumper

4 wheel parts sells the bumper. I would check with them

Red Hook Paint

Fairlead

More truck stuff in under blog

blog

i just ordered myself one of these

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375157727&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+station

it should be arriving tomorrow, but for $15 its a bargain i must say

No need to sand down to bare metal if the paint isn't pealing. Just take a red scotchbrite pad and scuff them up real good so the new paint will bite and get good adhesion. Wipe them down with some wax and grease remover, then mask them up to keep over-spray from getting everywhere and shoot some SEM trim paint on them.

At auto repair shops they have spray-on fabric dye that would work well. Be advised you need to vacuum a few times after and it will probably have a slight transfer to other materials for a little while until fully cured.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537665648&sr=8-1&keywords=SEM+Trim+Black

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Tape off and paper anything you don't want to be black. Scuff with a grey scuff pad and spray it. If it's cracking or pitted you may need to go after it with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Prep with a degreaser or IPA before you spray it.

Dupli-Color HVP106 Flat Black High Performance Vinyl and Fabric Spray - 11 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1wqCDb1RZK11Q I would give that a try. Even if it doesn't look perfect it's cheap enough to be worth a try.

http://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Products-0796-Clear-CLEAR/dp/B009LHER0M/

I don't know what the heck I looked at. Anyways, is this the kit you're talking about: http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505082037&sr=8-1&keywords=sem+trim+black

http://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

$7 a can

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAWQYY or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRF7QE depending on which you need.

DIY Price:

Karambit Knife: $8.69

Stattrack Counter: $10.13

Metal Paint: $14.70

Total Price: $33.52

Here is the mobile version of your link

sorry to be a pest one last question, is this the metalizer you used? https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11287-Graphite-Metalizer-Plasti/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1500504533&sr=8-12&keywords=plasti+dip

Butyl underneath then dicor around the edges is the traditional approach.

If you use painter's tape as a border (maybe .75" away from the edges) you can remove the tape before the sealant sets and avoid the melted wedding cake effect.

Why not use dicor lap sealent?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF7QE/

This is what I used on my maxxfan, been through plenty of storms during the last 6 months. No leak from the fan.

I sanded until my thumb bled.

Then I hit it with high fill primer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKX16A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I sanded that down smooth through the thumb pain.

Then I hit it with the texture spray linked above.

Then I gave it a couple of coats of "Trim Black":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM019O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The texture spray really hides a lot of the imperfections