Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement axles

I currently use an aftermarket paper filter on my '69 and it definitely improved my performance (not drastically, but the engine sounds and feels like it just got a new set of lungs) but it took me a while to get there. There are paper filters that sell for about $20 with the ability to attach the blow-by like this one. I had to recalibrate the carb a little after but it definitely improved my performance for a while till it started getting clogged by oil. It got clogged with oil because there was little travel in the tube from the blow-by to the air filter so all the oil vaporized and then got trapped in the filter, and then excess oil passed through the filter and gunked up the top of my engine :(. I bought another one (because there so dam cheap anyway) and set up a much longer coil of tubing to the right of the fan shroud to remedy this. The appropriate way to prevent the oil buildup than my tube coil is to install a breather box like this one. But these things are too expensive for me right now so I'm sticking with my makeshift one.

Is something like this worth considering?

https://www.amazon.com/SurTrack-CH-8221-CV-Axle-Shaft/dp/B001DKTG92/ref=sr_1_41?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482899599&vehicle=1989-42-347-330--9-8-8-3363-242-8-2-1766-14-8-0&sr=1-41&ymm=1989%3Ajeep%3Acherokee

That’s definitely the way to go, here is a pic of mine: https://imgur.com/a/IWBN8uC

Get something really sturdy, below is the one I used:

Dorman 35670 (5/8 Thread... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSZG8Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This. I recommend deleting this component and replace it with a posi-lok cable. Plug the vacuum line with a bolt. Then order and install 4x4 Posi-Lok PSL500 Axle Disconnect. https://www.amazon.com/4x4-Posi-Lok-PSL500-Axle-Disconnect/dp/B004TOLFMU Here's mine installed. It will work for all s10s. https://i.imgur.com/L0m7eQu.jpg

They just go well before they should. Sometimes 40k, sometimes 100k.

Don't get a stock replacement. Get an aftermarket fix.

https://www.amazon.com/Clamping-Bearing-Support-Porsche-Cayenne/dp/B0063GQP6S

These already exist for about the same price: http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Locking-Wheel-Axle-Nuts/dp/B005GEZFHI

Have you seen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063GQP6S/ ? It's a driveshaft bearing replacement which does not require the shaft to be rebalanced. It's the only way to really fix it without dropping $$$ for a new shaft and bearing combo. /u/Rionoko . I've had my eye on it for my Q7 if the bearing ever bites the dust.

It's not a castle nut. It's very similar to this nut (but doesn't fit my vehicle). Dorman 615-220 M20-1.50 Deformed Thread Spindle Nut, (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZVPMNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OEOgDbZK3P4FG

I had a Tercel that did have the usual castle nut and cotter pin combo. My Avenger doesn't have these

So I posted a picture of my rifle yesterday and got a few questions about my flashlight/pressure pad set up. As you can see, I have MLOK on the 12 o' clock portion of my handguard instead of Picatinny rail so I had to figure out a way to attached the pressure pad that is supplied with the Streamlight ProTac. I saw a video on how to do this about a year ago but am having trouble locating it to share with you guys.

First, you need to purchase the Magpul M Lok T-Nut Replacement Set. I will include a link below.

Link <https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-Industries-M-LOK-T-Nut-Replacement/dp/B00PDKOC4W>

Next, slowly drill through the two holes on each end of the pressure pad. You don't have to worry about drilling through the wiring or damaging any of the electrical circuits as these two holes are surrounded by a little bit of the plastic frame.

This method of attaching the pressure pad is much more secure than using the small rail connectors supplied in the Streamlight ProTac kit. You will not have the issue of the pad sliding back and forth.

Of course, if you can afford it you can just buy the Cloud Defensive Light Control System (LCS).