Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement exhaust clamps

Awesome thank you. This looks like the exact part - https://www.amazon.com/Ruien-Hardware-Stainless-Universal-Connector/dp/B07NYBY5W5

Will find a good alternative. Are there any treatments i can put on the metal to help with rust?

A lot of people (myself included) use Speed Engineering and are very happy with them. The only thing you'll need are a couple of lap clamps for the header to off-road pipe connection since the ones that come with the headers are poo. You use the OEM ones for connecting the off-road pipe to the catback.

If you want a set with cats you CAN use these with some custom setup but I would say at that point your better off going with Texas Speed.

Thanks! I've got it held down with a set of valve cover brackets on the inside, works really well. https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Valve-Cover-Clamp/dp/B000BPZ4PK

I'm thinking about getting two of these

TOTALFLOW TF-U600 Natural Finish 6" 304 Stainless Steel Saddle U-Bolt Exhaust Muffler Clamp 6" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1CCT9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-09xDbBE0S098

(the size I'll need)

Then drilling a hole through the base and putting a bolt through the hole, with a washer and a wing nut to clamp the lift down

And mounting it my roll bar, tucked as high as the hard top will allow, thoughts on that?

I got an answer for y'all:

The clamps on the header-to-midpipe size are 47-51mm (or something to fit a 1.5" I.D. hose, ranging 1.85" - 2") and brand used is commonly Mikalor.

If you're on the hunt in the US, I'm not finding them readily on Amazon but I'll keep looking.

Edit: Bam - $10 from Amazon.

If it's south Fl and he's been four wheeling, there's a good chance that the exhaust is pretty sketch to begin with. It's not fun trying to bend and weld the 3/8" rod for an OEM rubber donut hanger to paper thin rusty crusty exhaust while lying on your back in the driveway (been there, done that). If the exhaust is as bad as a typical Fl mud truck you really don't want to be welding on it anyway and a 360 swivel hanger will most likely be stronger than whatever was originally on there.

If there's a hole in the pipe where the weld on the OEM rod hanger got ripped off but the pipe is otherwise structurally sound, you can put a SS band clamp over the damaged bit and call it good. Make sure you ask the parts guy for a flat band clamp, not a step band clamp and be sure to measure first to get the right size because they don't have much "fudge factor".

Sounds ghetto, but I'm no stranger to working with what you've got.

This is still how some people do things. You can buy little c-clamps made especially for this purpose:

http://www.amazon.com/Nickson-Industries-17351-Clamp-A-Stud-4-2/dp/B000COX92K

It involves one of these and some squatting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076J7RLWQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The cost of an exhaust repair can vary a LOT depending upon what they're doing to fix the leak, and how big the leak is. It can range from as cheap as $10 for something DIY like this or this, to as much as several thousand to completely replace the exhaust system from the manifold back. Certain repairs will last longer than others, and of course replacing the complete system will likely last the longest. So, when you go to a mechanic be sure to ask them exactly what they'll do to fix the issue, and then see if they guarantee the repairs for time/miles.

Just as a FYI, they do make what looks like a C-clamp for repairing exhaust leaks, but these are designed to slip over or work around broken studs, etc. and are intended to provide a more-or-less permanent repair. They can be life savers for situations where you'd have to remove an entire manifold to deal with a broken exhaust pipe stud, for example. I've used them and they do work, and more critically, they stay in place once tightened down.

Example 1 and example 2

I have an 06 sport. The owner before me cut the pipes and muffler off just after the catalytic converter.

I also bought the thrush welded muffler and used this adapter to fit it to the pipe.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043DL69E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I then ran a 1 ft extension and a turn down. Originally I just had the extension, but without the turn down the rear axle / differential was really heating up (im in FL). So I added a turn down.

I have no problem with fumes, but it sounds awful. Anytime the MDS kicks in it drones and the muffler isn't really that loud.