Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement filters

Hi. I have a few things I'm trying to get rid of. If you're interested, I'd prefer to keep our communication to reddit. I haven't posted here before so forgive me if I'm slow. I haven't posted any of these items on CL or anywhere else (yet). Cash only please. I'm going to try to be straight up with you, so if you're interested in anything here, please be straight up with me. I'm open to negotiation, but I hope I am putting up reasonable prices. So don't lowball me like crazy.

• [Korean Blanket] (https://imgur.com/RoomPTM) My mother gave this to us but we never use it. I think it measures 80 in. x 95 in. Similar blankets on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Solaron-King-Peacock-Korean-Blanket/dp/B000JD56GQ) look to be going for around 80 bucks. I'm thinking 40 bucks and it's yours.
  
  
• [Zojirushi Bread Maker] (https://imgur.com/Cq0avza) Sorry for the bad photo. This is a highly regarded bread maker. Perfect size for small kitchens. Look on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Zojirushi-BB-HAC10-1-Pound-Loaf-Programmable-Breadmaker/dp/B000G32H84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525193380&sr=8-1&keywords=bbhac10) to peep the features and reviews. Full disclosure, the price on this is fairly high new. But we used it for a few months and then we stopped out of laziness haha. So it is used AND the hinge on this is kinda broken on one side. So be gentle when opening and closing it. With all that in mind, how about 100 bucks?
  
  
• [Fisher Price Rock 'n Play Sleeper] (https://imgur.com/9z9WwpC) We only used this once. It looks like [Target] (https://www.target.com/p/fisher-price-newborn-rock-n-play-sleeper/-/A-15263603) has a similar one on sale right now for almost 50. So 40 bucks obo.
  
  
• [Phil & Ted's Poppy High Chair] (https://imgur.com/wOBAxzJ) Sorry for the bad image. We used this a few time and liked it. It's well rated on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/phil-teds-Poppy-Highchair-Lime/dp/B00BZO1PE0/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1525192856&sr=8-3&keywords=poppy%2Bhigh%2Bchair&th=1) and they sell it for 110. Full disclosure though, we stopped using it after reading some reviews that some people were finding fiberglass splinters from the tray. If that doesn't deter you, how about 80 bucks?
  
  
• [No-name White Bag] (https://imgur.com/1kz1qAe) Matches for scale haha. Never used. It's probably not worth much, but it'll hold a lot. How about 20 bucks? I'm not trying to meet you up for less than that, so 20 bucks, or buy something else and I can throw it in if you want.
  
  
• [Dahon Folding Bikes with Accessories] (https://imgur.com/0rQ4DrX) Oh boy. I know that's a lot in one picture. So folding bikes are exactly that. Bicycles that fold in half for transport and storage. The black one is a more urban bike style. Looks more like a regular bicycle. Beefier frame, and I think the tires are designed to be puncture resistant. Best of all, there is a manual pump in the seat. The smaller one has a rack for transporting stuff. It's hard to see, but we have a lot of stuff for these bikes. Lights, locks, helmet. Various items for maintenance and repair. I think the black bike has locking skewers on the wheels, but I have the original skewers in a box. They should have plenty of tread left. Looking at the Dahon website, it doesn't even look like they offer a model similar to the black one anymore. For two folding bikes with accessories, I'm thinking 800 obo.
  
  
• [New K&N Performance Cold Air Intake 69-2544tp] (https://imgur.com/06ot7y5) [Another image listing compatible vehicles] (https://imgur.com/8omIMvu) This is entirely new and packaged. I only opened it to verify what it was. Everything is still wrapped up. [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Performance-69-2544TP-Lifetime-Challenger-Chrysler/dp/B007CDYWEI) is selling this for 280 new. I'm thinking 250 and it's yours.
  
  
  
  

Yeah, sorry about it being a bit different. GM has a tendency to do things wildly different for no apparent reason sometimes.

I really couldn't find a decent picture or description anywhere.
Even this AutoZone image was just, 'here's all the parts': http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/job-info/en/US/07004001.jpg/1.image

There's no quick fix for removing solids from the ducting, but for smells try something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Clean-Air-Kit/dp/B000IMB4CI
That particular brand is supposed to work really well. I know we sold stuff like that at the parts store I worked at. Something like it should be fairly easy to come across.

I'm glad you got it taken care of. I'll be looking forward to the aftermath. I wish you a pile of karma.

Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!

Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.


Fluids

• The 4.0 seems to love Shell Rotella 10W30 - either T (Conventional) or T6 (synthetic) its up to you and use a quality filter - Wix, NAPA Gold, Mopar, or Motorcraft FL-1A
  
• Drop transmission pan and change fluid and filter - ATF +4 only No additives or anything else. Adjust the bands and TV cable (link below for TV adj.)
  
• Drain and fill the transfer case - Selec-Trac transfer case (NP242) and Command-Trac (NP231) get ATF +4 also. Quardra-drive (NP249) gets a special Mopar fluid
  
• Drain and fill both differentials - if you tow 75W140 full synthetic in rear 75W90 in front, otherwise 75W90 in both
  
• Drain and fill coolant. Zerex-G05 is now the OEM coolant, but you'll be fine with the old school green fluid. Also a good time to look over the condition of the rest of your cooling system. If you're running below 210 you're going to want to put a 195 thermostat in - running to cold causes tons of problems
  
• Siphon out your power steering fluid - either through the high pressure hose, or with a turkey baister. Use only Chrysler approved fluid not ATF. You'll need to burp the system after by turning your wheels lock to lock several times and topping of the fluid
  
• Bleed your brakes! These brake lines are prone to rust already, and brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere over time and they will rust from the inside out. spray the bleeder screws with PB Blaster a couple times a day for a few days before you get started to free them up - Check your pads, shoes, drums, and rotors too!
  
  
  Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0
  
  
• Champion copper spark plugs
  
  
  
• Denso wires
  
  
  
• Accel distributor cap with brass contacts
  
  
  
• Accel Brass rotor
  
  
  
• Accel Ignition coil
  
  
  
• Bosch air filter any paper filter is fine though
  
  
  
• gates belt
  
  
  
• Clean the throttle body and IAC
  
  
  
• Adjust the Transmission Throttle Valve Makes a big differnce in shifting
  
  
  
• Clean the Grounds - #1 in the "Dirty Dozen" list below
  
  
  
  If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen
  
  Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
  

In order to actually clean the filter/cone, I recommend using something like the K&N filter recharge kit:

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jJOQAb7BZ4K73

Step 1: loosen the cone clamp and remove the cone/filter. You can use a hose to pre-clean as much of the gunk and debris as possible.

Note: you won’t really need to cover the exposed intake tubing, because your engine isn’t running or sucking in any air. You can cover it with a plastic bag and rubber band (or shove a towel in there) for peace of mind if you’d like.

Step 2: use the K&N detergent spray on both sides of the filter. I think the directions say to let it sit for a minute to do its thing.

Step 3: Rinse both inside and outside of the filter very thoroughly.

Step 4: drying - shake out as much water as you can from the filter cone. You can safely use a hair dryer on a low heat setting on both the inside and outside of the filter to speed up drying.

Bonus Tip: you can also use some compressed or canned air (like electronic duster) to force the moisture out of the nooks and crannies of the cone.

Step 5: once it’s dry, oil the filter cone with the included oil spray. Don’t saturate the filter, there is such a thing as too much of the oil.

Step 6: re-install your nice clean filter cone and re-clamp your cone.

EDIT: some words. I’ve got the CTS on mine as well, so I made the steps more specific.

Get a socket and wrench set What I got

Get torx bits What I got

I got the Haynes Audi A4 book but everyone suggests the Bentley manual, I don't know which is better, I just know that the Haynes helps a bit and is ~100USD less expensive

Jack and Jack stands

35mm or 36mm socket for the oil filter. WIG

That ought to get you through a good chunk of work. Cost me ~200USD for that. Although I did get other things for the car like;

Triple square bits What I got

1/2in breaker bar

Sockets for the 1/2in breaker bar

Security bit set What I got ,Used it to replace a few sensors

Yeah, that's it. The extras ran me ~90usd more

I can't give advice for the insurance portion other than just continuing to pester them about the supplement since it sounds like they are giving you the run around till you give up but I'm guessing the dealer can't get in touch with the adjuster just like you.

What likely happened is when the mold developed it got trapped in your vents and since the shop was only paid to clean the carpet, thats all they did. So what I would suggest is finding somewhere local that rents ozone machines and stick one in your car for a day or two. Here is one in Houston from a quick search. At my old job we had one for apartments that were flooded or smoked in and we used it in my friends car once after he had a pound of rotting meat under his seat for a week in the Texas summer (long story) and it got that smell out completely. Also, pick up one of these kits and use it, then replace your cabin air filter which should cost no more than $20 and is pretty easy to do. That should pretty much eliminate all the likely sources of the smell, at least enough to sell it. If the smell still lingers a little I would also put one of these in your car too and maybe stash it somewhere out of sight so if you do go to sell it, it won't be found during the inspection. Try their spray too, that stuff worked wonders and was always a life saver back in my high school pot smoking days.

We bought the K&N for ours and love love love it! We definitely saw an uptick in responsiveness and mpg (almost 2mpg). It adds a little bit of aggressive sound to accelerating as well.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CDYWEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• A filter shouldn't void a warranty, and K&N even offers to fight warranty disputes with dealers who claim the filter did it
  
  (side note, not sure why everyone here says "GET A GREEN FILTER!" instead of the best known high flow filter ever - K&N)
  
  
• The top actually secures the filter in place. You can take it off, but I would check it once a week to be sure it didn't pop off the intake tube.
  
  
• a high flow filter is for increased air flow (easier/faster air intake) and not temp decreases
  
  To address ur other concerns:
  
  
• I have a snorkel and I have NEVER had water on the filter, but I also leave the airbox lid on (my 2013 has a ~1" gap between the hood and bumper that water likes to go through to the engine compartment)
  
  
• Oil coated air filters require you to wash and re-oil them every so often. The oil is what catches most of the dust. You can buy a cleaning kit or larger portions of the cleaner and oil. K&N says every 50K miles, but I do it once a year (20K-25K for me) It's a pretty easy process: Take filter out > spray from inside out with garden hose > coat in filter cleaner (special stuff) > repeat garden hose rinse > repeat cleaner > repeat rinse > rinse from outside at angle (not to push dirt into fabric) > pick off any stuck on bugs/grass > let air dry (8-10 hours) > evenly coat with oil (spray on is easiest) > let sit for 30 min > re-apply on any light spots > let sit for 30 min > check for light spots (re-apply and wait again if necessary) > install > done
  
  
  If you're that concerned, I'd go with K&N's filter (since it's closed ended) and leave the cover on, but I haven't heard of any reports of water getting into the filter otherwise

One thing that helps is having a driveway with a little privacy, and no homeowner's association that won't prevent you from doing oil changes and tire rotations on your car.

Husky and Craftsman tools are ok: http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Mechanics-36220-Newest-Version/dp/B00F1WPCEG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51O7n-Tt4mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0GZXKZTCM0RPZKMW48D2

You can just buy tools individually on amazon if you can't afford the whole tool kit.

Here's a huge guide for the tools needed for working on Subarus: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f62/what-tools-buy-work-my-subaru-127475/

And some rhino ramps, wheel chocks, and jack stands: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/199GQ6N13H6N0/ref=cm_wl_huc_view

For oil changes, you should order yourself a 6-pack of genuine WRX oil filters with crush washers off amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458339681&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=subaru+wrx+oil+filter+and+crush+washer

Buy your fully synthetic oil at walmart. Auto parts stores will rip you off on oil.

Dealerships are expensive for general maintenance but useful for doing comprehensive checkups for the maintenance intervals. The maintenance intervals are pretty standard general maintenance every 5k miles.

But my car does have a Hepa Filter.

Hepa is definitely the best, but the other filters are no slouches. Hepa filters trap up to 99.97% of pm 2.5 particles. But other filters will still trap something like 80-90% of them. So as long as you run the air in the car as closed, your air will still be purified, but it'll take a minute longer.

Relax, Elon, you still have the most badass car on the road and it cleans the air better than other cars, but all-in-all, other cars will only take an extra minute to clean the air in the car.

special stuff. here is the kit
http://www.amazon.com/99-5000-Aerosol-Recharger-Filter-Service/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333468088&sr=8-1
that one looks like it has the spray oil, which is better than my pour on oil (much faster and harder to over do). just follow the instructions shouldnt be a problem.
the MAF is easy to locate, do a little reading on cleaning it first, and proceed with caution if you do. they're usually pretty expensive to replace.

you'll want some RTV to reseal the cases. honda brand is honda-bond I believe.

some engine assembly lube is good too for the cam and other parts until it gets running and oiled properly again.

If you're taking apart the head, (Actually the tool is needed for reassembly only, to turn/compress the torsion springs into place) there's a special tool honda made to turn the torsion springs that hold the valves in. I just cut a notch in a socket, another guy just put a wrench on it to turn it.

I will also say that the 500t engine is essentially identical to the CB450 engine, and the CB450 service manual is a fantastic service manual. I would recommend you use that to rebuild the 500t engine. All the 500t manuals I found were pretty poor manuals in comparison.

timing gun isn't entirely needed on these bikes if your spark advance works properly, i've found static timing a bit easier for me, but I know my advance works properly.

you'll also need a chain breaker tool for the very long cam chain in the engine, as it has to come off to remove the head. I used a slightly modified bicycle chain tool, as it's much smaller than purpose built ones and I found it easier to use.

When I lapped my valves, the suction cup tool thing they sell was a pain to use. I wound up sticking a rubber vacuum hose around the end of the valve and used that to spin/ move the valve. worked well.

make sure the seal/gasket kit you get has the rubber cylinders for the oil galleys. when I rebuilt mine a few years ago some kits didn't have them.

finally, there is a special socket needed to remove the oil slinger from the end of the crank shaft. You probably won't have to remove it, so you probably won't need it. here is one on amazon. I just bought myself a cheap socket and ground it down to the right shape.

EDIT: changed a couple things.

Yeah, turbo failures on the XTs aren't uncommon and can cause a total engine failure when they blow. Have fun, give her all she's got every once in a while, but don't rag the engine out, and stay on top of those oil changes with full synthetic. Your manual will say 7,000 miles but Subaru amended it to be 3,750 miles after seeing a lot of turbo failures. If you're mechanically inclined, do it yourself and save $40-$50. I bought a six pack of Subaru filters on Amazon for $35 or so and a pack of crush rings for the oil drain plug. I might get one of those Fumoto drain plugs one day, but they make me a little nervous. I used to use Castrol GTX Edge, but recently switched over to Shell's Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a heavier weight engine oil, but I live in the south and it's within summer temp weights for our car most of the year. A lot of Subaru drivers use Rotella T6. Even though it's labelled for diesel engines, you won't hurt your car.

Here's a link to the oil filters and crush rings

Also, as another user stated, be sure to remove the filter on that banjo bolt for the oil feed line to the turbo. They get clogged and will starve the turbo of oil, killing it pretty quickly.

Congrats again on the new car. I love mine. She's at 200k miles now, and I'm hoping to get another 50k out of her.

• You can adjust the brightness of the instruments and LCD display by turning one of the adjustment sticks (the right one) on the upper side of the instrument panel.
  
  
• You can change the width of the blind spot monitoring system.
  
  
• Enabling "Audio Pilot" turns on active noise cancelling.
  
  
• You can change how the automatic door lock mechanism works in the settings.
  
  
• You can turn on traffic camera warning in the navigation system settings.
  
  
• Turning on sport mode dramatically increases throttle response and holds gears at significantly higher RPM.
  
  
• A 3-minute super easy air filter change to the $50 K&N one can give you 1-2 better MPG and slightly better throttle response.
  

So it is actually a 3 part ordeal.

The actual fog lights since my car didn't come with them, and the stalk. Then I did some c-shaped drl since I have leds in my high beams and the factory drl doesn't work with leds, but then the c-shaped drl didn't work for a little bit so I bought the drl turn signals, and then the previous c-shaped ones started working again. I will just post all of my mods below:

Fog lamps with brackets : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL8DPWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Light stalk : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWO7XOK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

C-shaped DRL : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014P7LPEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sequential LED Turn signals with DRL : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/5veD22k

9005 LED High Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075J9S4DT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

H11 55W HID Low Beam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMKT2F4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 7443 LED Brake/Tail Light : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTKLF32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

7440 LED Turn Signal (rear) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8RZRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED License plate/used as side markers in the front/a couple other places : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT23WVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

194 LED side marker bulbs (not used but the correct ones if you want yellow, I liked the white and it was what I had when the originals burnt out but didn't ever change them from the above link) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KY7GCXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

License plate smoke : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LICQ9M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Grille : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254096211721

K&N 33-2480 Air Filter : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR9WVPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VfS6CbNBD59AQ

I had my rims done by a local company, they are the factory 16" painted gloss black. My mazda emblem is actually a long story, but essentially it is just scuffed up with sand paper ready to be painted but I liked the look and stuck it back on the way it is. I have also installed car play, and 3D printed a shift knob. The factory bose system was a little lacking and put a small under seat sub in to help fill the sound, but am still not happy with it, so that's a future project.

Some near future plans for the car include the aero kit, and I'll post the links to those here too:

Front Bumper Lip Air Dam : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FTUE8EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bdS6Cb2X8Y22M

Black Mirror caps : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283050942561

Side skirts : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F391544070112

And the rear diffuser : https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113007041503

• Dogbone insert.
  
• Replace any non-LED with LED bulbs.
  
• Change color of LED bulbs for interior (i.e. I got red footwell LEDs)
  
• Clubsport S Center Caps (have a red ring around them)
  
• Tint (find a shop that does triangle windows w/o removing trim or charging extra)
  
• New tires
  
• New lightweight wheels (something flow formed - Neuspeed/Konig/etc)
  
• Add a rear lip/spoiler
  
• Hardwire a dash cam (highly recommend this) or radar detector.
  
• Drop in panel air filter like AFe DryFlo/Remove snow catcher in intake
  
• Automatic hatch pop kit (USP's kit is best), though they're sort of meh and require extra force to close.
  
• OBDEleven
  
  Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
  
  Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
  
  
• Fluid Extractor or catch pan.
  
• 4 Pack of Plugs Replacement oil pan plugs if you're doing catch pan drain method vs extractor.
  
• 3-pack VW Genuine oil filters
  
• Mobil1 0w-40 VW502.00 Spec Motor oil rebate is ongoing through October. You can get 10L for about $24 give or take. Walmart has them for $22.xx per 5L jug. NAPA also recently had singles for $5/ea, may still be ongoing.

I mean, I guess "worth it" is subjective, but I also think you must be setting an unreasonably high bar. These are cheap, easy, and butt dyno approved:

• snorkel delete (free)
  
• AEM AE-20993 Dryflow air filter ($35-40)
  
• replace the rear motor mount with part number CM5Z-6068-A from the electric Focus ($40-60)
  
• enable Sport mode via FORscan (free if you already have an ELM327 OBDII USB adapter with MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch, though you would need to put in a SelectShift knob and do some re-wiring if you wanted manual control over shifting)
  
• do the grounding mod (free or a couple of bucks for a new bolt...it may not improve performance, but especially on a 2012 with the old bolts, you might be experiencing communication delays)
  
  Are you going to turn your SE into an ST? Nope. But hey, you're spending $100. You could throw another $462 at Tom's tune, though I don't think I'd suggest that for the average driver (whereas the other mods above are totally worth it, IMO).

Good luck! Oh also, you can pick up OEM oil filters off of amazon for pretty cheap too.

https://www.amazon.com/2015-2016-Volkswagen-Filter-Replacements-GENUINE/dp/B00LMGORXC

I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but I use Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filters. They're a little longer than stock, but I like them.

And I definitely recommend getting a magnetic drain plug.

An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.

Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.

Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).

The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.

Open ended oiled filter. Seen them in the $40 range on Amazon occasionally. Not much performance gain but the noise is good for miles of smiles.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=green+filter&qid=1555005232&s=gateway&sr=8-3

First oil change can be early. SOA doesn't mention it but dealers do offer it at varying intervals. I'm in FL and my dealer offered to do it at 1k after the break in period.

I'm doing my own changes and did the first one at 3k and second at 6k to get me back on track. Pretty easy to do on these engines and total cost is about $30: $23 for the oil and $8 for OEM filter, the latter you can probably get a little cheaper from other sites or possibly the dealer.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

I buy my Valvoline 0W-20 on Amazon, usually around $20 for a 5-qt jug. I ended up with a Subaru dealer coupon and bought a case of oil filters to keep on hand, but Amazon has those too.

I couldn't tell if you if I'm getting the best deal around but between Prime and their Chase card, it works for me. Never seen them out of stock either.

Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.


https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523047&sr=8-1&keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter

Filter : 8.50

https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523075&sr=8-1&keywords=fumoto+valve

Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484523115&sr=8-3&keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30

35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.

So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.


Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.

I have the same car, put a green filter in it! Trust me, you'll love the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Plm0xb6E2613Z

They're nice filters. Super cheap on amazon with next day shipping as an add-on item.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL400S-Oil-Filter/dp/B000AS3D42/

That, with full synthetic oil at $28, makes my oil change just over $31.

Just FYI you can fit these filters on almost any car for less than 20 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

(And they are pretty common in cars of that price range anyways, it's just typically not being marketed as "bioweapon defence".)

i got this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URDQ27A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

not sure if its hepa but it seemed like a good filter.

I did the same thing to my 76 360 (very similar engine). The tricky part was the oil filter locknut.
All i had to do was drain the oil, remove the crankcase cover, pull the centrifugal oil filter (this took a spanner to remove the locknut as shown in the manual), pull the clutch and the shift shaft pulls right out. Have a look at a parts fiche on partzilla or whatnot and it'll give you a pretty good idea.

The spanner can be purchased here for 10 bucks (worth it), or do what i did and spend an afternoon making one from a 12 point 15/16" socket - http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/62-engine-discussion/19731-clutch-hub-nut-socket-how-make-2.html

Overall it was an easy fix and didnt take more than 2 hours for a totally incompetent mechanic like myself.

I use the Fram Fresh Breeze cabin air filter, has Fabreeze in it, made my car smell nice and fresh.

https://www.amazon.com/CF10709-Fresh-Breeze-Cabin-Filter/dp/B004IZWMD6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481085341&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=farm+fresh+breeze+cf10709

Like others have said it's very easy. Here's the filter I always use from Amazon for $13.50USD.

From what I understand the "30" oil change is the most basic, bulk oil on the market as well as the crappiest cheap filter too. I like to get the 15K Miles full synthetic for all of $25 shipped with prime as well as a premium BOSCH filter for abouit $5. But thats just me.

• Youtube videos are your friend for sure. With limited mechanical knowledge and this basic tool set like this one you can easily do the cabin air filter, engine air filter, MAF sensor and thorttle body cleaning and replace the spark plugs.
  
  
• If you're feeling a little more confident replacing the engine coolant IMO is no harder than an oil change. All you would need extra is a floor jack and jack stands.
  
  
• The drive belt is also easy after you've done it once but the first time can be challenging. If you've never done any type of maintenance I would leave this one to the pros it shouldn't be too expensive.
  
  
• The transmission fluid is easy if the drain bolt is accessible (it should be on this persons car). You just need to drain and refill (refill to the full line when the car is warmed up and running). Then after 5000 miles repeat the drain and refill. Done.
  
  
• The shocks and struts are a little harder. Items can be hard to remove and bolts stripped or overtighten; this is best left to seasoned hand. Plus it's a pain in the ass and requires more expensive tools (torque wrench, box wrenches, pry bars, heavy hammers, spring compressors). I do recommend to bring your own parts to the mechanic. A full set of top of the line KYB shocks and mounts will only cost you $350 at rockauto.com. This will only leave labor which should cost anywhere from $300-$500.
  

Got it here..

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425668660&sr=8-1&keywords=focus+st+green+filter

Came pretty quick, got it in 2-3 days. As far as performance goes, there isnt much of a difference. It sounds great though! Left the top of the air box off.

Ive been thinking of getting the rokblokz myself. Window tint is iffy for me, due to it being illegal. Got popped in my RSX for it.

Ford just puts semi synthetic in, so any full synthetic and you're doing well... But even then, mind=blown that they still think 10k OCI is fine for a GDI-T motor, so I'm going with 5k intervals personally.

To answer your actual question, just did my first at 1500 miles (get the break in oil out, 5k from here on out) with Castrol Magnatec 5w-20 full synthetic w/Bosch Premium filter (#3330, excellent drain back valve to prevent dry starts). Was only $17.88, at the time for the oil and $5.59 for the filter w/Prime. Car immediately ran smoother and pulled quicker, that initial break in oil must be rough.

> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007CDYWEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just like that you used a smile.amazon link :)

It's just that a decent oil filter usually has it. The Purolator PureOne was fantastic for me "Anti-Drain Back Valve" this is meant to prevent oil from flowing out of the top of the engine due to gravity. In other words, oil will remain inside your lifters, and reduce the amount of tick when starting up, and the amount that oil will dry up or gunk up. I just changed my oil and didn't use this type of filter, and it is significantly louder on startup.

Cool thanks! I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542485078&sr=1-4&keywords=Bosch+hepa+cabin+air+filter
It seems that one should be able to filter the smoke

I'd recommend the AEM dry filter for its easy cleaning, unlike the Green and K&N that require oiling.

Best oil filter you can buy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS3D42?cache=7f64b7e7e11b780165e3b3122a2984f7&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1413471655&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i like it so far it adds a bit more induction noise and it looks like it keeps the oil cooler just by a little bit.

As the owner of my second 2005 MCS, this is also the first thought that popped into my head. This, plus a trusted mechanic.

PS: I just bought that 36mm socket on Amazon. Less than $10.

It can also help to buy the filters in bulk on Amazon, or a similar site: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/

purchased mine from Amazon because, free prime shipping.

So if the labor will be performed by someone else, the only thing I need is the oil to replace the existing oil and the oil filter correct?

if so,

Genuine Toyota - Prius Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5) - 04152-YZZA6

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9BPECFS0QV83TREH9

it says qty 5, how many do you use per oil change?

2010 Prius oil change
~4 quarts so

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-96995-0W-20-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B000SKYL9I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414344172&sr=1-1&keywords=mobil+1+ow-20

or is there somewhere cheaper I can get same product?

Mobil 1 only please

you can get them on amazon. I got this one for my 2017 so i think it should fit a 2016 too.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

K&N 99-5000 Aerosol Recharger Filter Care Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m.zEAbG27T0YA

My filter cost me 50 for my 2017 Ridgeline, the cleaning kits are 12, regular filters are around 30.

Pays off after the first cleaning kit, then you are saving 18 every cleaning after that.

2015 sedan 2.0 auto. Greater than 90% highway. 63 miles.

Edit:

link to product on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CR9WVPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was approx 70 degrees today, i would expect it to be even higher in the summer.

Installing Racing beat axleback and a full set of Michelin CrossClimate + this weekend :)

Amazon, looks like price went up a little.

Subaru 15208AA15A Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h13Jyb556SS3Y

Sure, carb cleaner might work. It might not and cause more issues. Just buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Throttle-Body-Single-Use-Twin/dp/B0091KCH6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504884561&sr=8-1&keywords=throttle+body+cleaner

Do yourself a favor and get one of these cabin filters. I had some smell issues with my Mk7.5 and this got rid of them completely. Could hardly believe the difference it made.

Ok so I am looking at these items
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHIR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A15DTMM40CG6VX](Green Air)
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGWW5UC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26YKA1AMO7VO

Took me less than 5 minutes to switch out myself. I recommend this Mann-Filter FP 26 009 FreciousPlus Cabin Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URDQ27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yBv7Cb4TVSP6N

Some models have them available, like this one. You'd have to find one that fits your car.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

04152-YZZA6
Amazon sells five packs. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI

Also, if you haven't done it yet, you'll want the ASSTOY 640 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MXQBK1ZKTZSDZ4407XX

I take it no engine lights? Tire pressure ok? Did you change tires or brakes recently? Any mods done (k&n filter?)?

I would say could be winter gas and tire pressure but not sure if FL gets winter gas or not and temps have not dropped that much there.

Also check for vacuum leaks, spray out the throttle body with cleaner, and clean the MAF sensor with proper MAF cleaner. I have seen k&n filters dirty the MAF sensor up and cause issues.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05111-Single-Use-Throttle-Cleaner/dp/B0091KCH6U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412006852

everything from a 96 Chevy Tahoe to a 2010 WRX
Napa Auto Parts in the US sells K&N filters usually double the cost of a standard filter, and cleaning kits are less than the price of a new standard filter. Amazon has them for even cheaper

Green filter

Clutch Spring

Short shift plate

FL400s oil filter

Shift knob (JBR)

Rear motor mount (Mountune not really cheap))

You mean this? It was replaced a year ago and has not been cleaned.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487785406&sr=8-1&keywords=green+filter

Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 in the blue bottle and a Purolator PL14610. I know it's not available outside the US, but when I wanted to know about oil there's more information than you should ever need to know at this website. Both my oil and filter are direct results of that website.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4

Here you go! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-6055C-HEPA-Cabin-Filter/dp/B01JYSX028

This is what Purolator is to me.

Here's also a list of the mods, how much, and where I got them.


Visual

Black rims $192.25x4 = $769
Window tint $180
Spoiler $100
Side Stripes $30

Tail light blackout $20

Sidemarker $15

Rear Decal: $50

345/Hemi Emblems black $34

Plasti-dip for Decals $6.00

Rock Guard $60

Engine

Air Filter+Recharge $63

Oil Catch Can $150

Other

Tazer+Bypass $300
Atturo Az850 275/40R20 $127.55x4 = $510

Mid-Muffler Delete $163

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMHIR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this will work since I'm on mobile

Not really - I quite like the car 'as is'. The only thing I've done is add a weighted shift knob and some goofy decals.

EDIT: Also a Green Filter for more turbo noise in the cabin.

OEM oil filters are so cheap there's no reason not to use them, in my opinion. Amazon sells a six pack of them for $27.

Also, the oil could be burning because it's too thin. I have been using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40, which my tuner Yimisport recommended, in my 2012 STI and I've had basically zero consumption over the last two years.

Finally, a big step toward solving oil consumption is using an air-oil-separator. The stock configuration returns oil to the engine via the intake, which ends up getting in your intercooler and ultimately burning in the combustion cycle. An AOS strips the oil from this air and returns it via a drip back into the engine block. It never needs emptying like an oil catch can either. Crawford and Perrin both make them now. Grimspeed makes a cheaper, smaller design but I've read it doesn't work as effectively.

Green Filter 7159 Green High Performance Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IaEszbMN7H88X

Resonator is part of the exhaust system, $50 From my local muffler shop to remove it and put a straight thru . Gives the exhaust a little character without being loud

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-7159-High-Performance/dp/B000CMHIR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462365341&sr=8-3&keywords=green+filter

Seriously took 10 minutes to install!

The sound is...visceral, a growl and rumble, you can hear the engine suck in air with a whistle even.