Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement fuse assortments

We found 12 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement fuse assortments. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 7 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on automotive replacement fuse assortments

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive replacement fuse assortments are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Fuse Assortments:

u/j919828 · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Overview

Not wanting to spend hundreds on the RIGrunner series of distribution boards and being limited by their options, I decided to make my own versions.

I am new to electronics and I had no idea how to make PCBs a couple of days ago, so I need some help here. I will give some for free if someone help me with the technical problems or verify the files (more in the end), and of course I will make everything public for everyone to use personally.


About this board

This is the most simple and my first version. UNTESTED AT ALL at this point. It uses soldered/crimped 12ga wires, and [Keystone 3557-2] (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/3557-2/?qs=cxy41lVAGV%2FfbyASjpXK1g%3D%3D) Fuse Holders. Fuse holder is rated for 30A, so is the contact. The fuse holders accepts both ATC/ATO and mini size fuses, and looks nice. The mounting holes are for 6-32 or 3mm size screws (0.142''/3.6mm ID)

Any problems you see with the design? Connectors placed too close/too far?

Component Cost


At the highest retail price (lowest volume), 7 holders and 7 connectors cost about $15, plus the cost of some 12ga wires (building wire). 7 good quality [Eaton fuses] (http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Fuses/Automotive-Fuses/_/N-ba8b5?P=1yocc0hZ1z0s1g2) adds another 7 dollars, or you can get [120 pcs of cheap stuff] (https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-CAPCFM-Assorted-Truck-Mini/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0045K2Q9Y&pd_rd_r=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF&pd_rd_w=dzzaU&pd_rd_wg=pK73O&psc=1&refRID=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF) on Amazon for the same price. In the end it should be less than $20 w/o the PCB.

Depending on where you get the PCBs made, it can be cheaper, or a lot cheaper than the commercial options.


Future designs

For future versions - what functions would you like to have on your power distribution board?

  • Blown fuse LED indicator, capacitors (not sure why?), switches, or other electrical features?
  • Horizontal connectors and fuse placement?
  • Other connectors/terminals?
  • How many outlets?

    Case

    I have some experience in CAD and CAM, so I should also be able to make some enclosures for whatever board I come up with. It should be pretty cheap for a simple folded sheet metal case or some machined plastic cover and mount them with standoffs.


    Software problems / design checking

    I'm using KiCAD - free, no licensing needed whatsoever. The files, both KiCAD files and Gerber files can be found [here] (https://github.com/cjm27/Powerpole-Distribution-Boards) on GitHub. I have two problems now:


  • For some reason I cannot connect some pads with tracks on both sides. As soon as I draw a track on one side, the other side's track disappears. I don't think this would be a problem when made because they'll be covered by the copper pour.


  • In the 3D preview, it shows the holes are covered by the copper pours. In production I think they will be drilled, so it shouldn't be a problem either? They should be plated through hole to conduct current.


    If someone is experience with PCB manufacturing, I will really appreciate some verification before I send the files to production.


    Thanks everyone for reading. 73

u/etch-bot · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Get a fuse box like this then attach wires to cigarette adapters. The fuse box is connected directly to battery with another fuse between them.

EDIT: Mind you, I'm still trying to figure out what size fuse, circuit breaker goes between them LOL

EDIT #2: Also, from this fuse box, you directly connect LED lighting, your cig adapters and any other 12v source you may have. All the fuses are in one place instead of in-line. Makes it easy to diagnose problems as you can just pull the fuse to work on something. Make sure to label!

EDIT #3: Also.. get some these fuses. It's cheap and now you have a ton of extras!

u/Clattgrx · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

ADVMonster has some good controllers for auxiliary lights.

I made my auxiliary light circuit using instructions from post #2 here: http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/10863-power-source-aux-lights.html

My bike has a free 12v port that's only on when the key is in the on position which I used for the relay switch. I don't know what your bike has that's similar to it though.

I bought these:
DIGITEN 5x20mm GDC Fuse Holder Inline screw type with 16 AWG wire (Pack of 10)

Foxnovo Fast-blow Glass Fuses Quick Blow Car Glass Tube Fuses Assorted Kit Amp

HELLA 965400001 12V 30A SPST Relay with Bracket

I designed and 3D printed a waterproof holder for the relay and switch that I used. I can send them your way if you want.

u/Snownel · 1 pointr/CrownVictoria

No clue where you bought your fuses but I got this kit of 120 for under $9. These things love to blow fuses, just get that kit and keep it in your glovebox.

u/tofu2012 · 2 pointsr/civic

You car has "mini fuses" and I get an assortment from Amazon. The ratings range from 5 amps to 40 amps.

This is the set that I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ERyszbQ91N786

u/brock_lee · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

It's a spare fuse (often bought on its own) for some kind of automotive application. The wire is uncut, and you're supposed to cut and strip it when you install it for whatever you're protecting. Not exactly sure why they ship them uncut. Maybe it saves a couple of seconds during manufacture.

Sometimes cut

Sometimes not

u/zxj4k3xz · 1 pointr/airsoft

The discharge rating is only half the equation anyways. What you're really looking for is the amps, which is Ah C = A. The 1450mah 30C you linked would have about 45A (1.45 30). Fuses are rated in Amps, so a 30A fuse would blow if more than 30A goes through it.

I believe Krytac uses standard blade fuses. If it blows you should be able to replace it easily. They're dirt cheap on Amazon. If you're blowing fuses though you've probably got a bigger problem.

u/AJRobertsOBR · 1 pointr/electricians

Blue Sea Systems 5035 ST Blade 6 Independent Circuit Fuse Block with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VELERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qzcJBbGV5KY2Q

120 Pieces - EPAuto Assorted Car Truck Standard Blade Fuse Set (5/7.5/10 / 15/20 / 25/30 AMP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQ5T3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dDcJBb1W0PM5K

u/niczar · 1 pointr/prusa3d

In the mean time, OP could start by adding an output fuse himself, rated at the PSU's specs. That would definitely rule out problems with the PSUs themselves, and would help narrow down the problem. This for example, it's rated for 12V but I don't see why 24V would be a problem.

u/FulltimeHobo · -4 pointsr/Hyundai

Fuses are a fail safe in case there is a surge, they don't control how much current goes through the outlet. But even if there is a surge you still have the charger as a secondary fail safe. If the bigger fuse still blows, then it's the charger. Car fuses are dirt cheap at a few cents a pop, and you should have them in glove box anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/120-Assorted-Truck-Mini-Fuse/dp/B0045K2Q9Y

u/TreborEnglish · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

The vehicle has a wire from the alternator to the battery. It is usually too small. If you connect your house battery charging wire at the alternator rather than at the vehicle battery you will improve the charging of the house battery without adding additional current and voltage drop to the charging path for the vehicle battery.

The wire from the vehicle alternator to the house battery gets the switch somewhere between the two. It doesn't matter where. If it is near either end or in the middle it doesn't matter. The switch instructions say to put it near the vehicle battery. It doesn't matter. The ohms are the same no matter where you put it. Make the wire as short as possible. Locate the switch out of the weather and wherever it is best to have a short total wire length.

Fuses protect wires to avoid fires. The size of the wire sets the upper limit of fuse size. The wire needs to be protected at every source of power. Your house battery charging wire has a connection to two sources of power. The house battery and the vehicle battery / alternator both feed the wire and both need a fuse. Mount the fuses as close as possible to their power sources.

The inverter takes a large DC current. A 440 watt blender using a 90% efficient inverter will need 40 Amps running, maybe twice that starting. Mount the inverter as close as possible to the house battery. If the inverter has its own fuse and the cable from the battery to the inverter is so short that it can't touch any ground even if cut or disconnected then maybe you don't need a fuse between the battery and the inverter.

The fuse box I used is:
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-PSZACCEPS051H-6-Way-Illuminated-Blade/dp/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1478725271&sr=1-1&keywords=automotive+fuse+block
You connect a wire from the house battery to it, put in the fuses then connect the fuse box outlet connectors to your loads. Again, put a fuse at the battery to protect the fat wire to your fuse box. If the wire to the fuse box is short enough so that even if the nut holding the wire on the fuse box falls off the wire can't reach anything grounded then maybe skip the fuse.

Specific answers

1 and 2) Wire from alternator - fuse - fat wire - separator - fat wire - fuse - house battery. Then from house battery to inverter, house battery to fuse box, both with fuses if necessary.

3) fuse size depends on wire. For small loads just use #12 wire and a 20 amp fuse. For your fat wire for charging the wire size depends on the length. If you mount the house batteries behind the driver's seat and the alternator is on that side of the engine you can probably get by with 10 to 15 feet. At that length #6 would be the smallest I would recommend. For #6 I would suggest 80 amp fuses.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5SG2C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4) Standard blade fuses fit in the fuse box linked above, not mini.
https://www.amazon.com/120-Pieces-EPAuto-Assorted-Standard/dp/B01DYQ5T3O/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478727709&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+fuses

5) Grounds are equal in importance to the +12 wiring. Any resistance will drop voltage and cause problems. When 2 items share a ground connection and that connection gets high resistance the symptoms get strange and diagnosis gets difficult. For a battery ground you need a hole drilled and a bolt run through. Star washers on both sides of the steel are helpful. You must grind away any paint. Find some ground connections that already exist to see how Sprinter did it. The battery black wire is like what you need for your house battery. Small wires around tail lights are like what you need for your small loads. The inverter should be connected with a short fat wire directly to the battery. The separator switch needs a small ground like other loads. There may be small grounds around the van that you can add to.

6) The fuse box doesn't get a ground connection.

7) The biggest risk (but least likely) is burning down the van with an electrical fire. The most likely risk is making some small arcs and blowing some fuses. A likely risk is connecting something backwards. LEDS just don't work backwards. If you connect your inverter backwards it will likely blow internal fuses, maybe fry the thing. The fan may go backwards, maybe fry. If there is arcing that involves alternator current it could kill the alternator.

Now the fierce criticism. Those coolers will kill batteries and not keep your food cold. If your van is 90F inside and the cooler drops it 30 then inside the cooler it is 60F. Not cold enough. 55 Watts is 110 Amp hours per day. You need to have a volt meter to keep from killing your battery. Do not wire an inverter like you wire a phone charger. The inverter needs short fat wiring. Search the internet and you tube about crimp connectors for fat wire and for #12. Don't strip a wire and twist it around a bolt and then tighten a nut. Look at the way wires are done from the factory in your van. No sharp edges, no loose unsupported wires. Before working on vehicle wiring disconnect the battery minus wire.

For the sake of argument, I actually have the products I have linked. I have only one battery and no disconnect switch. I upgraded the vehicle battery size. I have a vent fan, LED lights, chargers, no blender, 100 Watt solar. That makes me informed and experienced, not expert.

u/random12356622 · 5 pointsr/Dashcam
  • Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost

  • Or Dashcam + Micro SD card = No parking mode.

    ---

    Write down your values right now.

  • Video quality = 0-10

  • Build quality = 0-10

  • Parking mode = 0-10

    0 being the lowest, 10 being the highest.

    A129 isn't a bad dash cam, but be prepared for your values to shift after ownership after a while. If you did your research, you know what you are purchasing. A129 2CH is what it is, as advertised.

    ---

  • A129 ($160 USD) Dash cam

  • Micro SD card - TLC based cards will not last as long as MLC based High Endurance cards. 128 GB Micro SD card TLC based card likely ($20 USD) vs 64 GB High Endurance Micro SD card MLC based card likely ($43 USD)

    Micro SD cards last about a year or 2, maybe 3, then die. They have a limited number of read/write/rewrite cycles. Some are not Dashcam rated (will say in the warranty use in a dash cam will void warranty.) Some dash cams are picky with Micro SD cards and reject them on an unknown criteria. Some dash cams have recommended brands of Micro SD cards.

  • Viofo 3 wire Hardwire kit ($15 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage only.

  • Viofo 2 wire hardwire kit ($10 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.

  • Power Magic Pro 3 wire hardwire kit ($24-30 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.

    So I don't know how Viofo parking mode activates under different situations.

  • Typical 2 wire system = Motion sensor(Movement in front of camera lens)/G sensor (hits bumps) inactivity, with required 1-2 minutes of "Quiet time." If the dash cam does not get its required "Quiet time" it will record normally until Low voltage cut off feature activates. Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.

    1st wire (Postitive) -> Always on fuse = Parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).

    Or

    1st wire (Positive) -> Ignition only fuse = No parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).

  • Typical 3 wire system = Ignition switch position parking mode detection. This typically is more reliable way to detect if parked. However High end/Luxury vehicles with an (Unique/Specific) sleep mode will require an (Unique/Specific) hardwiring setup to allow the dash cam to work. (Sometimes including tunneling through the firewall to the battery, then re-insulating said fire wall.) Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.

    1st wire (Bat) -> Always on fuse = Powers dash cam; 2nd wire (ACC) -> Ignition only fuse = Detects if parked or driving; 3rd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).

    I don't know how/if A129 changes from 2 -> 3 wire, or from 3 wire viofo -> 3 wire Power Magic Pro.

  • Tap a fuse ($5-15 USD) + 5 amp fuse ($1-5 USD) at any automotive store.

    All Fuses, including Tap a fuse should match your vehicle's type. Mini/Mini low profile are the most common. There are also ATO, Micro 2, Micro 3, and Maxi type fuses.

    Read your owner's manual for fuse box location(s) typically 2-3 in every vehicle - in/under dashboard (use this one), Under hood (avoid at all costs), In door (use able but not favored), and Trunk (Use able but not favored.)