Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement oil gaskets

I had similar 'problem'... I bought one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Mokylor-Electric-Transfer-Battery-Operated/dp/B07N5KDG8Y/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2HMC8HW3NDJBI&keywords=12+volt+water+siphon+pump&qid=1565458472&s=gateway&sprefix=12+volt+water+siphon+p%2Caps%2C555&sr=8-10

hope that shows up.. it worked ok for a couple years, uses 2-D batteries... I would opt for a better solution, buy a 12 volt pump, wired in with a switch, etc... loads of choices on amazon... good luck

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

YES. Do it.

Your owner's manual will have the torque spec written inside. It will likely be around 25 to 33 ft-lbs. It's probably 29 ft*lbs.

Best process is to replace the drain-bolt washer each time. hand-thread, then snug it up with your wrench.

Don't take much stock in these guys who think they have calibrated hands. This is the thinking of someone who over-torques shit, snap bolts, and strip threads.

If it's your car, do it right, pick up a budget wrench from harbor freight, and call it good.

Bummer! Try one of these if you need more than the mallet. It's what I use at work and it's pretty great if you're careful.

This is sadly pretty common for 1998-2006 BMWs. Always use a torque wrench and a fresh crush washer. Just one Jiffy Lube visit can necessitate a new drain pan or a fix. There are numerous fixes available though:

This is the legit fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I went with this self-tap oversized plug to fix my busted threads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use the cheap oversized method, make sure to actually tap the hole with the plug -- few turns in, back it out, clean, etc.

Purchase an oil catch basin similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Plastics-Group-W78-Container/dp/B000HEBYYU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407368098&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+drain+pan

Purchase a Oil Filter wrench that fits your car similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-Millimeter-Heavy-Duty-Cap-Type/dp/B006VMXMQK/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368191&sr=1-11&keywords=oil+wrench

Read the manual for your car and determine the correct weight of oil, quantity of oil and oil filter for your car.

You may need a new Oil drain plug Gasket like this, Your Manual should indicate if so:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65292-AutoGrade-Drain-Gaskets/dp/B00062YSHS/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368320&sr=1-9&keywords=oil+washer

Start your car and drive it a short distance to warm up the oil in it.

Park you car where you can access the oil drain plug and oil filter.

Place the Oil Catch basin under the drain plug of your car.

Remove the Oil cap from your engine.

Remove the Oil Drain plug from your car using the correct sized wrench.

Caution, Warm oil will pour out of the engine, You may want to wear gloves to keep from getting it on your skin.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of the engine.

Replace the Oil Drain plug gasket/washer with a new one on your Oil Drain plug if your car is so equipped.

Re-install the Oil Drain plug.

Move your Oil catch basin under your Oil Filter

Use the Oil Filter wrench to remove your old Oil Filter.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of your engine, Again it may be Hot so be careful.

Check that the Old Oil filter came off with it's gasket, You do not want to have the gasket left attached to the car.

Place the old Oil Filter open side down into your catch basin for it to drain.


Open a new bottle of oil, Dip your finger into it and smear a light coating onto the gasket that is part of the new oil filter, Covering it completely.

Thread the new oil filter onto your car gently by hand.

Carefully tighten the new oil filter onto your car using the Oil Filter Wrench.

Fill your car engine with the correct quantity and type of oil specified by your manufacturer.

Start the car, Run it for a minute. Stop the car.

Check under the car for any leaks.

Check the Engine Oil dip-stick and verify that the oil level is between the Min and Max levels marked on the stick.

Take your old waste oil to the nearest recycling center for such waste, Do not pour it into the trash or down a drain.

I think that covers it off the top of my head.

You have to pull the motor to change the pan gasket. Front differential will NOT let you do anything on 4x4 pan. Damn cross-member won't let you do anything on 2wd lol

Get yourself a harbor freight engine hoist, they are like $120 or so and mine has done way more duty than i have expected lol and yes, you HAVE to pull the engine. There is absolutely no way around it.

As far as the adapter, i would keep it. they CAN be a pain, but it's there for a reason. do replace the hoses though. The gaskets aren't too hard to grab, in fact already got the damn part number for you lol https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-82560-Adapter-Cooler-Assortment/dp/B000COBCJC

• put some grease or oil on both sides of the paper gasket prior to install

I've used oversized drain plugs a couple times and they do work.. Here is one from Amazon for m12 x 1.5 - http://www.amazon.com/M12-1-50-Single-Oversize-Drain-Gasket/dp/B0040CRVD8

50 pack on Amazon.

OEM Part

You just need to google "12x22x2 crush washer"

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Ave-Engine-Gaskets-803916010/dp/B07NTWNKRY

A seasoned mechanic told me about these and they are all I use now. Replace the washer once, and you are set! Genuine Toyota - Oil Drain Plug Gaskets (QTY10) - 90430-12031 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OW6MD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fJ6kDb32WQV05

Get the real Toyota part. It should be aluminum with colored plastic coating on both sides. Most of the time if you buy the Toyota spin on oil filter it comes with the washer.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Drain-Gaskets-90430-12031/dp/B007OW6MD6

I work in a shop, but I don't have a monopoly on common sense. If you know about reddit, I'd be willing to bet you know about Amazon.

You may actually spend more on gas or electricity to anneal that washer than to have a pack of 20 sent to your house.

https://www.amazon.com/Washers-Frontier-Infiniti-Replacement-11026-01M02/dp/B071FLWNWN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2D5W0SVEZSE3L&keywords=nissan+crush+washer&qid=1573502041&sprefix=nissan+cru%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-4

Fel-pro makes one-piece pan gaskets that are top notch. I just got done doing this job on my '92, along with the rear main seal, oil filter adapter housing o-rings, and valve cover gasket.

Dry as a bone now.

To OP: I would also check the oil filter adapter for leaking. Very common. And if you do buy gaskets for the pan and valve cover, spend the extra money on the one piece Fe-Pro gaskets. They're worth every penny.

tips on pan gasket replacement:

• Buy RTV that is designed for use with oil
  
• Put RTV on the rear main cap to pan mating surface, the corners where the main cap and block meet, the corners up front on the timing cover, and the lower timing cover to pan mating surface. Also dab some RTV on each side of the pan rail in the middle of each side.
  
• Put the gasket against the block and insert pan bolts close to each location you put RTV above and tighten hand tight
  
• Let sit over night, or long enough that RTV will hold pan gasket in place while you wrestle the pan in place
  
• Before installing pan, put more RTV in the same spots as above, but on the gasket surface this time.
  
• Install pan without trying to wrestle everything in place and getting RTV everywhere except where it should be

I’m not exactly what where the leak is your seeing but if you pull the 4 bolts that hold the rear main seal and the two oil pan bolts you can re do that gasket area mating those together. Be aware it is partly rubber seal and partly rtv in that specific area. I am not sure weather the rubber part is reusable. I replaced mine when I did it.

Beck Arnley 034-0775 Oil Pan... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAYZQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here is the rubber seals I used on my wife’s 04 frontier. 3.3l same engine