Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement gaskets

Okay, take all this for what it's worth (your mileage may vary, I am not a lawyer, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, yada yada yada).....

I bought an '02 WJ in Feb (to replace my '01 XJ) and had similar issues like you're describing. Based on my experiences with my XJ previously, when it comes to the cooling system I tend towards doing a complete overhaul in one go rather than addressing one component at a time.

For your rig, you've got 4 main components to deal with (in my opinion) when it comes to the cooling system:

• radiator & cap
  
• water pump
  
• thermostat
  
• electric fan and relay/controller
  
  If you've already replaced the fan & relay/controller, you should be able to (mostly) rule that out. If you need to check and see if it's running, physically pop the hood and look. It should also be on full time when you switch the AC on.
  
  You've replaced the waterpump, but you say it's "steaming". From where? Grab a flashlight and see if you can figure out where the steam is coming from. It might simply be that you either didn't torque the bolts down enough and it's leaking under pressure, or the surfaces the gasket sandwiches between weren't cleaned resulting in a poor seal, or a combo of both. If it's visibly coming from anywhere around the gasket, you might need to pull the pump and re-do it with a fresh gasket & gasket sealant. Make sure the surface of the block is scraped clean of all the old gasket material and use a good gasket. I have a low opinion of the ones that come with the water pumps and will spend the $$$ on a Fel-Pro (Fel-Pro 35629 water pump gasket).
  
  Check your coolant for debris, particles, any fines or silts that you can see, etc. If the radiator has never been replaced, odds are good that in the 16 years your WJ has been running the radiator is clogged. If you replace the radiator, a good flush of the cooling system will get rid of most of that junk so you don't end up clogging the new radiator and get a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant in there. Top it off with a new Stant radiator cap while you're at it.
  
  Same deal with the thermostat, it may simply be time to get a new one. Consider getting a new housing & gasket while you're at it. Not necessarily a requirement, but I tend towards replacing the housing when I do the thermostat "just because".
  Stick with the OEM 195° thermostat - I ran my 4.0L XJ with the 180° thermostat during the summer in Vegas (100°+ routinely for months) and it noticeably helped but I went back to the 195° thermostat after summer temps ended. If that's your climate, the 180° thermostat might be good for a while but I don't recommend it as a straight replacement.
  
  Is replacing nearly everything in the cooling system overkill? Maybe so, but I take into consideration my WJ is 16 years old (like yours) and I have no idea what kind of maintenance the previous owner has done. So it may cost a little bit, but it's worth it to me knowing all the main parts to the cooling system are "like new" which should eliminate overheating issues.
  For a little bit of perspective on why I think that way (ie- total overhaul) this is what the thermostat on my '01 XJ looked like when I replaced it a few years ago: https://imgur.com/a/FvZQi9E
  The extra ring looking piece to the right of the thermostat is piece of another thermostat that was inside the block.
  When I replaced the radiator on my WJ, I pried off one of the end tanks the core was clogged like you wouldn't believe.
  
  Once you've gone through all that, you also have the option of installing a mechanical clutch fan. This thread on JeepForum gives some good info and links. The tl;dr for that is to go grab this Hayden 2787 fan clutch and this Dorman 620-602 fan and spin it onto the threaded nose on the water pump.
  
  I've got the Torque app with a bluetooth OBD-II scanner so I can check the real numbers vs what the dash gauges are showing. Trust me, you can be running hot before the temp gauge starts to creep past the halfway mark.
  
  After replacing all the bits & pieces I talked about above, and installing a mechanical clutch fan, my WJ is running cold. Yesterday was high 90s here in Vegas, and idling in a parking lot w/ the AC on the temp never broke 200°. Creeping through traffic on the freeway w/ AC on hit 206°-210° but didn't get higher. Driving about 75-80mph for a while, and it was in the 190°-195° range.
  These are the same temps I was seeing with my XJ after I did the cooling system overhaul, so I have no doubt when it starts breaking 100° here in Vegas I won't be seeing any overheating issues with the WJ.
  
  

Most here think it could be your valve cover gasket. No way to know 100% unless you were to see the source. I am leaning towards the valve cover gasket because I can see the oil drip (especially around like where the dipstick is) and also because those are things that are known to break. Some people here say head gasket but i really think thats unlikely because usually that is accompanied by a loss of coolant. If you change your oil and you see coolant then that's it. That is an involved repair.

The good news is if it is your valve cover gasket this isn't super urgent so long as your oil levels dont fall too low. A lot of people are driving around with leaky valve cover gaskets as we speak! My gf drove around with a very slow VCG leak for years. If it's a head gasket or a

The other good news is on your engine it is very easy to access, and amazon has the replacement part for $5 USD https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25183348-Original-Equipment-Gasket/dp/B014MVJ87I (AC Delco is General Motors, so this is the actual original equipment manufacturer). Your local auto parts store would also have it in stock. To access you would just need to remove the ignition coil assembly (the black thing with two black "humps" bolted to the valve cover with 4 wires coming out labeled 1,2,3,4). And bolt off the valve cover. Probably good to disconnect the hoses. I would change the spark plugs while you're down there (the things at the end of those labeled 1,2,3,4 wires)

The medium news is that you will need to find someone with tools to do this. Tools can be expensive. You might be better off going to a mechanic unless one of your friends has tools. The mechanic will have all the tools and be sure to torque down the bolts in the right sequence and torque values. Some valve cover gaskets also require RTV silicone (less than $5, also available at auto parts store) but you have to know where to put it. My only concern is some of the bolts appear corroded and *may or may not* get stripped or break upon removal. Not saying that's a guaranteed or even a big deal but you have to have the tools and knowledge for how to deal with it. That's why im leaning towards a mechanic or a friend with a lot of tools.

The kind of concerning thing is The engine is actually built by Daewoo in south korea which is not known for reliability. Not saying there’s anything wrong with it but something to keep in mind

Actually, I agree. It was a really shitty reason. However, at the time, I couldn't afford to buy the entire cluster. Doing some digging, and the prices haven't really dropped any. Here was the run-down of what I was looking at:

180 bucks for the fuel accumulator
~250 for a new pump
60 bucks x2 for the connecting fuel lines (I can't find the exact lines, but that's how much they were)

So, yeah. It was a lost cause for me to fix it. The clutch was still strong, and the motor, other than the top end clicking a lot, ran really strong for just a 1.6L.

Edit:
And of course a new filter which at the time was 20 bucks. Thank goodness I didn't have to buy a housing for it because they are still 150 bucks. Still looking for the cluster pictures.

Edit2:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5874947-86-GTI-8v-CIS-fuel-pump-housing-*almost*-NOS

Get Lube Locker for your diffs. I know $40 is a hard bullet to bite, but I promise the second you bolt back up your diffs, it'll be worth every penny.

USE CONVENTIONAL OIL for your differentials. Not only is the Dino oil much cheaper, it's better. It does a much better job at cooling. Amsoil is typically the go to brand for Jeep oil, but I just go with whatever Dino oil is on the shelf at the store for the differentials

Get 2 cans of brake cleaner and use 1 per diff to clean the inside out. Don't be surprised when you see a little bit of sludge on the inside, it's kinda normal. And don't be surprised by the smell of diff fluid, it smells like shit because it has sulfer in the fluid

Do have a rubber mallet to get the diff cover off. The bigger the better

Tighten the bolts to 25 ft lbs with blue loctite

You didn't mention if you had a LSD or not, if you do, you'll need to add a limited slip additive. Here's a chart that will mention that, and will give you information on other fluids (scroll to TJ) :

https://www.extremeterrain.com/jeep-wrangler-fluid-capacities.html

I had similar 'problem'... I bought one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Mokylor-Electric-Transfer-Battery-Operated/dp/B07N5KDG8Y/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2HMC8HW3NDJBI&keywords=12+volt+water+siphon+pump&qid=1565458472&s=gateway&sprefix=12+volt+water+siphon+p%2Caps%2C555&sr=8-10

hope that shows up.. it worked ok for a couple years, uses 2-D batteries... I would opt for a better solution, buy a 12 volt pump, wired in with a switch, etc... loads of choices on amazon... good luck

I strongly second this recommendation. For the curious, here's the video link to the show and here's a short write-up on costs, etc. All your flavor is coming from the woodchips, so I've found electric to be a great alternative to charcoal - low hassle, low cost, low clean up.

I've had a lot of fun tweaking my flower pot smoker; a digital probe thermometer is a great investment, and this gasket has really helped with heat retention. I also sprung for a cast iron box for wood chips, something like this.

Next step is hooking the heating element up to a temperature controller for longer, lower maintenance smokes.

My friend and I had limited knowledge of Subaru engines before we dove into my overhaul. We decided it was worth it to pull the engine out. It needed a lot of high mileage maintenance.

Felpro Gasket set $130 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2AISU/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Timing Kit $150 -
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_z

I also did clutch, flywheel, spark plugs, wires, thermostat, and a few other things I'm probably forgetting. I believe that my costs, including the machine work and refreshing my heads, was around $600-700. Considerable savings over taking it to a shop or dealer.

There are more than enough how-to videos and forum write-ups to keep even a newbie mechanic from loosing his/her mind. Gasket failure rates are insane for these years of Subaru, lots of people have been in your shoes. A quick search of "subaru head gasket" on youtube will bring up tons of stuff. Many videos are of people doing the repairs with the engine still in the car. In my opinion, you "might as well" pull the engine all the way out, since you really only have a few fasteners left. Engine mounts, pitch stop, and the bolts/nuts holding the transmission to the engine.
With the engine out, it just makes the rest of your job a lot easier. And you can stand in your engine bay, and that's fun.

Best of luck!

I have a 98 and had to have my head gaskets done. I had a friend who works on Subarus for fun so he did it for significantly cheaper. The shop I worked at gave me an estimate of about $1500 +parts so if you can I'd try to find a smaller mechanics shop or get a friends recommendation with a Subaru "expert" and maybe get a deal. If you went and bought parts they might charge you slightly less. If you do get Fel-Pro. Check your specific model for fit but this is what the pros will use and it's what I used. Honestly I'd buy this anyways and have whoever you use make them put these parts in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2AISU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cEIpyb6P0RDAW

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

Something like a set of these might actually do it for you. Or two of these. i don't know what size you need measure and order the correct size, but i do know that you are missing the flanges, they probably rotted off. you will also need to reform the shape of joint, it looks like the intermediate pipe hit the ground, hit it with a hammer a few times. and there is a donut gasket

heres what it should like like when you're done

YES. Do it.

Your owner's manual will have the torque spec written inside. It will likely be around 25 to 33 ft-lbs. It's probably 29 ft*lbs.

Best process is to replace the drain-bolt washer each time. hand-thread, then snug it up with your wrench.

Don't take much stock in these guys who think they have calibrated hands. This is the thinking of someone who over-torques shit, snap bolts, and strip threads.

If it's your car, do it right, pick up a budget wrench from harbor freight, and call it good.

The felpro double blue ones or turbo ines are the best I've heard.. I work in auto parts and never sell the single stacked ones.. always the double ones.. they work way better.. like these..https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-26415-PT-Cylinder-Gasket/dp/B004IZKKZS

Right, well the reason I ask, is if you've seen the guide on... I wanna say twinsaabs, the front main seal job is quite tricky. It's interesting compared to the 9-5, which I believe is just removing the harmonic balancer, and a large snap ring.

On the 900, it's a whole piece- handful of bolts, harmonic balancer, plus the main bolt all come off to do the job. The Fel-Pro kit I got for the front main seal comes with the main seal, oil pump gasket, and two gaskets for passages on the whole cover piece.

Here's a link to the kit I needed for my car, but I'm not sure if this applies to yours (I have a 91 turbo, and going by the cps kit you have, yours is NA) and I don't have my Haynes handy. I specifically bought the fel-pro because I did not see the same gaskets visually included with other kits, and opinion of importance of changing the gaskets varied from person to person.

Bummer! Try one of these if you need more than the mallet. It's what I use at work and it's pretty great if you're careful.

This is sadly pretty common for 1998-2006 BMWs. Always use a torque wrench and a fresh crush washer. Just one Jiffy Lube visit can necessitate a new drain pan or a fix. There are numerous fixes available though:

This is the legit fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

I went with this self-tap oversized plug to fix my busted threads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use the cheap oversized method, make sure to actually tap the hole with the plug -- few turns in, back it out, clean, etc.

Here's what a new head gasket kit will include:

Kit on Amazon

If the guy bought only the head gaskets, then they didn't replace all the other casket, that come in a kit. That they did the whole kit rather than just the head gaskets is good. Better, according to everyone else, that that they did the head bolts too.

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

These work really well for that, theyre also really good for lifting rubber to tuck

this is what i was going to originally buy on amazon :

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUCFT2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Hs26170Pt1-Head-Gasket-Set/dp/B000C2AISU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-ES-72212-Cylinder-Head/dp/B000Q0R4QC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_slice_detailpage

Two of the head bolt sets.


This is what my mechanic told me to buy. I think i can save an extra $100 by buying off ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X19P96W/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NDCT3GZ4P3HTP8C0VHSX

These are great for getting valve caps on your inside tires.

Your link also show me a cummins water pump gasket that is even better

Edit: nevermind, Just look at that head gasket!

This ones a lot better if you work with any dually's!

I've used oversized drain plugs a couple times and they do work.. Here is one from Amazon for m12 x 1.5 - http://www.amazon.com/M12-1-50-Single-Oversize-Drain-Gasket/dp/B0040CRVD8

you can do the equipment listing on jeeps page, but you probably have the dana 30 front, https://www.amazon.com/Lube-Locker-Dana-Differential-Gasket/dp/B008RAAOJW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491932545&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=dana+30gasket and the 35 rear.

Tacoma Water Pump Gasket