(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement gaskets

You can literally make gaskets out of cereal box cardboard in a pinch. You pretty much cant go wrong as long as you get something rated for automotive use you can use it nearly everywhere on the bike if you wanted to. I started out by buying an assortment of smaller sheets like THIS and then used whatever matched the original as closely as possible. When you run out of your assortment, you can run down to your local automotive parts store and get a replacement roll of the one(s) you used up the quickest, and those will last you a long time if you're just using them for personal use.

I'll almost guarantee its the valve cover gasket. All of my 4.0 powered jeeps have leaked from the valve cover and it looks just like it's coming from the rear main. Replace it with the good Fel-Pro gasket or some RTV and that should take care of it for the life of your engine.

Purchase an oil catch basin similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Plastics-Group-W78-Container/dp/B000HEBYYU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407368098&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+drain+pan

Purchase a Oil Filter wrench that fits your car similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-Millimeter-Heavy-Duty-Cap-Type/dp/B006VMXMQK/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368191&sr=1-11&keywords=oil+wrench

Read the manual for your car and determine the correct weight of oil, quantity of oil and oil filter for your car.

You may need a new Oil drain plug Gasket like this, Your Manual should indicate if so:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65292-AutoGrade-Drain-Gaskets/dp/B00062YSHS/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368320&sr=1-9&keywords=oil+washer

Start your car and drive it a short distance to warm up the oil in it.

Park you car where you can access the oil drain plug and oil filter.

Place the Oil Catch basin under the drain plug of your car.

Remove the Oil cap from your engine.

Remove the Oil Drain plug from your car using the correct sized wrench.

Caution, Warm oil will pour out of the engine, You may want to wear gloves to keep from getting it on your skin.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of the engine.

Replace the Oil Drain plug gasket/washer with a new one on your Oil Drain plug if your car is so equipped.

Re-install the Oil Drain plug.

Move your Oil catch basin under your Oil Filter

Use the Oil Filter wrench to remove your old Oil Filter.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of your engine, Again it may be Hot so be careful.

Check that the Old Oil filter came off with it's gasket, You do not want to have the gasket left attached to the car.

Place the old Oil Filter open side down into your catch basin for it to drain.


Open a new bottle of oil, Dip your finger into it and smear a light coating onto the gasket that is part of the new oil filter, Covering it completely.

Thread the new oil filter onto your car gently by hand.

Carefully tighten the new oil filter onto your car using the Oil Filter Wrench.

Fill your car engine with the correct quantity and type of oil specified by your manufacturer.

Start the car, Run it for a minute. Stop the car.

Check under the car for any leaks.

Check the Engine Oil dip-stick and verify that the oil level is between the Min and Max levels marked on the stick.

Take your old waste oil to the nearest recycling center for such waste, Do not pour it into the trash or down a drain.

I think that covers it off the top of my head.

Amazon prime does come in handy 😁
Elring Dichtung Valve Cover Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CIYYN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OLePCb3F9GQ1S

I just replaced my valve cover gasket on my Honda Accord 1998, 2.3L.

But go to Amazon and get a valve cover set. I think this one fits yours, but not sure.

You might need some permatex gasket maker, too.

Valve covers are easy to get off, it's like a couple of bolts. It was hard for me to get the gasket off because it was old as hell, and I had to use a torch.

But it should be very easy.

edit: here is a video, you can see the gasket replacement around 50 seconds in.

This is the set I got,

https://www.amazon.com/DNJ-HGS310-Graphite-Gasket-1991-2002/dp/B00TM0VU9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=Saturn+sl1+head+gasket&qid=1556060244&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


I will look into the piston rings.
Would new valve seals also be a good idea?

Is that the Ford/Mazda 2.3l 4cyl? The valve cover job is about an hour, maybe 2. Very easy and quite a few videos on YouTube for it. Ford used it in so many vehicles, it is a very common engine.

Felpro VS50639R1 Valve Cover Gasket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q0U7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_09hTCbJEPPFGY

YouTube vid from a certified Ford technician.
https://youtu.be/Y-aScxyk7pM

You can always buy the parts yourself and bring them in for install. There is atleast a 100% markup on most of your parts.

Take for instance your valve cover gasket.

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-VS50530R-Valve-Cover-Set/dp/B000C2GI4S

15$ compared to their 43$.

They even list the part numbers for you :^)

I'd also highly recommend replacing the valve cover gasket. They get brittle and leak onto your headers. Very easy job. Just be careful the you don't over tighten any of the bolts and be careful with the cover too (it's made of plastic).

Valve cover gasket: https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Gasket-Grommet-Victor-Reinz/dp/B00BZ9YV8W/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522256158&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+valve+cover+gasket

The belt tensioner is known to go bad on E46's as well and that'll put you on the side of the road if it fails. Also a pretty easy replacement.

Belt tensioner: https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-11-427-252/dp/B0066QTNCS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522255677&vehicle=2003-31-170-20--7-6-7-8226-171-1-1---1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2003%3Abmw%3A325ci

Congrats, hope we get a full picture after its finally yours!

Also, I had a similar leak on my LJ's rear axle and I put a Felpro Gasket instead of the gasket maker goop. So far no leaks.

I'm guessing if you're that concerned, that any cobbler could fashion a new footbed for a pair of shoes. Heck, with a trip to the car parts store to get some gasket material (like this), you could possibly do it yourself.

Given the thin cork bed in most dress shoes, I don't think this would be a huge issue. Used Birkenstocks? Most certainly, but those aren't likely to be an issue on here....

You have to pull the motor to change the pan gasket. Front differential will NOT let you do anything on 4x4 pan. Damn cross-member won't let you do anything on 2wd lol

Get yourself a harbor freight engine hoist, they are like $120 or so and mine has done way more duty than i have expected lol and yes, you HAVE to pull the engine. There is absolutely no way around it.

As far as the adapter, i would keep it. they CAN be a pain, but it's there for a reason. do replace the hoses though. The gaskets aren't too hard to grab, in fact already got the damn part number for you lol https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-82560-Adapter-Cooler-Assortment/dp/B000COBCJC

• put some grease or oil on both sides of the paper gasket prior to install

I did both sets. My VCG was literally hard plastic when I got it finally separated.

MAHLE Original VS50368 Engine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006E0P0GO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Dual Vanos O-Ring Seal Repair Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUJQOHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I mean kudos for the ingenuity.. but for the same cost and time you could have just changed the head gasket. A 2001 Civic head gasket can be done in a couple hours and the parts aren't that expensive at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-HS4038-Cylinder-Head-Gasket/dp/B007P73PQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491865419&sr=8-1&keywords=2001+civic+head+gasket

https://www.amazon.com/ITM-Engine-Components-09-11174-1994-1999/dp/B000CI1QC6

What are those little circular plug looking things? Figure it'd be worth it to check it out since my head is out.

Ok, I don't have all the information but I can tell you what happened to me with my 2000 zetec zx3.

I bought this gasket with grommets when I changed my timing belt.

When I was putting everything back together is when I finally noticed they were not even close.

The one I needed was this one, no grommets

I still don't know how you can tell the difference because when I went to autozone to get the gasket before I lost daylight, they also asked me if I wanted the gasket w/grommets or not. Every site and store says the gasket w/grommets will fit too so I don't how to make the distinction before taking the cover off.

Amazon Which isn't bad either.

This is the gasket/timing kit I bought. The description says that I has the updated gaskets that don't leak and they appear to be multi-layer steel, at least to me. https://smile.amazon.com/Evergreen-HSHBTBK9012-Gasket-Timing-Subaru/dp/B01AMVR0EU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526777704&sr=1-1&keywords=Evergreen+HSHBTBK9012+Head+Gasket+Set+Head+Bolts+Timing+Belt+Kit+Fits+04-09+Subaru+2.5+SOHC+EJ251+EJ253

50 pack on Amazon.

OEM Part

You just need to google "12x22x2 crush washer"

Here ya go brother.

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-3060-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNKUGO#searchKeyword

That should get you started

Fel-pro makes one-piece pan gaskets that are top notch. I just got done doing this job on my '92, along with the rear main seal, oil filter adapter housing o-rings, and valve cover gasket.

Dry as a bone now.

To OP: I would also check the oil filter adapter for leaking. Very common. And if you do buy gaskets for the pan and valve cover, spend the extra money on the one piece Fe-Pro gaskets. They're worth every penny.

tips on pan gasket replacement:

• Buy RTV that is designed for use with oil
  
• Put RTV on the rear main cap to pan mating surface, the corners where the main cap and block meet, the corners up front on the timing cover, and the lower timing cover to pan mating surface. Also dab some RTV on each side of the pan rail in the middle of each side.
  
• Put the gasket against the block and insert pan bolts close to each location you put RTV above and tighten hand tight
  
• Let sit over night, or long enough that RTV will hold pan gasket in place while you wrestle the pan in place
  
• Before installing pan, put more RTV in the same spots as above, but on the gasket surface this time.
  
• Install pan without trying to wrestle everything in place and getting RTV everywhere except where it should be

I've used the red Permatex many moons ago and it had no issue. Your biggest issue will be keeping it uniform so you don't end up making yourself more problems.

do you need to take it on and off a whole lot? if you don't just go with gasket tack to keep it stuck in the right places. or go with sheet gasket like this https://www.amazon.ca/Fel-Pro-3060-Gasket-Material/dp/B000CNKUGO and make yourself some kick ass gaskets.