Reddit mentions: The best replacement parts

We found 9,935 Reddit comments discussing the best replacement parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 5,520 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

TLDR: the best replacement part according to Reddit

1. Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123

Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123
    Features:
  • STAY CHARGED: Battery Tender battery chargers and maintainers provide a full charge to your powersport vehicle’s battery before switching to float mode to maintain proper voltage levels for safe, long-term storage
  • EXTEND BATTERY LIFE: Compatible with all 12V lead-acid, flooded, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Absorption Mode, Float Mode) allows for optimization of battery power, without overcharging or battery damage
  • INCLUDES: 12V, 750mA battery charger and battery maintainer with 12-foot output cord, fused-ring terminal harness for hard-to-reach batteries and alligator clip accessory cables, 5-year warranty, and lifetime customer support
  • SIMPLE & SAFE: Low maintenance, easy-to-use, universal battery charger is just 3.3 x 1.3 x 2.4 inches, 1 lb (charger only). Spark-proof circuitry ensures no-spark connections, and automatic reversed hook-up detection verifies correct connection
  • MONITOR POWER LEVELS: Two-color charge status LED light indicates the state of the charge and if the battery voltage drops too far under load, adaptive charging will resume full charger output power. Automatic charge cycle functionality switches to float mode after fully charging the battery
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1Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123Battery Tender Junior Charger...28
2Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. TubePermatex 22058 Dielectric Tun...23
3Battery Tender USB Charger AdaptorBattery Tender USB Charger Ad...17
4Thrustmaster TH8A Add-On Gearbox Shifter for PC, PS3, PS4 and Xbox OneThrustmaster TH8A Add-On Gear...15
5STANLEY J5C09 JUMPiT Portable Power Station Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor, USB Port, Battery ClampsSTANLEY J5C09 JUMPiT Portable...13
6HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone / Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Red Protective Grill, 2 Horns (3AG 003 399-801)HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V...13
7Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adapter Accessory Cable Connects Between Battery to Battery, Inverter, RV Mobile, Charger.Battery Tender Female Cigaret...11
8NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt Ultra Safe Portable Lithium Car Battery Jump Starter Pack For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline And 3-Liter Diesel EnginesNOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp...10
9Schumacher XP2260 1200 Peak Amp Instant Portable Power Source and Jump StarterSchumacher XP2260 1200 Peak A...10
10NOCO GC018 12-Volt Adapter Plug Socket With Eyelet Battery TerminalsNOCO GC018 12-Volt Adapter Pl...9
11Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 0.33 oz. TubePermatex 81150 Dielectric Tun...9
12WirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor 125 Amp/150 Amp Battery IsolatorWirthCo 20092 Battery Doctor ...9
13Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay,BLACKPutco 230004HW Premium Automo...9
14Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC660 1700 Peak Amp 12 Volt Jump StarterClore Automotive Jump-N-Carry...9
15Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel InterfaceMaestro ADS-MRR Universal Rad...8
16bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shuntbayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD...8
17GOOLOO 1200A Peak 18000mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter with USB Quick Charge 3.0 (Up to 7.0L Gas or 5.5L Diesel Engine), 12V Portable Power Pack Auto Battery Booster Phone Charger Built-in LED LightGOOLOO 1200A Peak 18000mAh Su...7
18Battery Tender Ring Terminal Accessory CableBattery Tender Ring Terminal ...7
19Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure GaugeJoes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI ...7
20Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack,2 Years WarrantyNilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16A...7

1. Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123

    Features:
  • STAY CHARGED: Battery Tender battery chargers and maintainers provide a full charge to your powersport vehicle’s battery before switching to float mode to maintain proper voltage levels for safe, long-term storage
  • EXTEND BATTERY LIFE: Compatible with all 12V lead-acid, flooded, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Absorption Mode, Float Mode) allows for optimization of battery power, without overcharging or battery damage
  • INCLUDES: 12V, 750mA battery charger and battery maintainer with 12-foot output cord, fused-ring terminal harness for hard-to-reach batteries and alligator clip accessory cables, 5-year warranty, and lifetime customer support
  • SIMPLE & SAFE: Low maintenance, easy-to-use, universal battery charger is just 3.3 x 1.3 x 2.4 inches, 1 lb (charger only). Spark-proof circuitry ensures no-spark connections, and automatic reversed hook-up detection verifies correct connection
  • MONITOR POWER LEVELS: Two-color charge status LED light indicates the state of the charge and if the battery voltage drops too far under load, adaptive charging will resume full charger output power. Automatic charge cycle functionality switches to float mode after fully charging the battery
Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123
Specs:
ColorBlack/Green
Height9 Inches
Length8 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2006
Size12V @ 750mA
Weight1.8 pounds
Width4 Inches
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8. NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt Ultra Safe Portable Lithium Car Battery Jump Starter Pack For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline And 3-Liter Diesel Engines

    Features:
  • Start Dead Batteries - Safely jump start a dead battery in seconds with this compact, yet powerful, 1000-amp portable lithium car battery jump starter pack - up to 20 jump starts on a single charge - and rated for gasoline engines up to 6 liters and diesel engines up to 3 liters.
  • UltraSafe - Safe and easy to use car battery jump starter pack without the worry of incorrect connections or sparks. Safely connect to any 12-volt automotive car battery with our mistake-proof design featuring spark-proof technology and reverse polarity protection.
  • Multi-Function - It's a car jump starter, portable power bank, and LED flashlight. Recharge smartphones, tablets, and other USB devices. It's easily rechargeable from any powered USB port in 3 hours at 2.1-amps. Plus, an integrated 100-lumen LED flashlight with seven light modes, including emergency strobe and SOS.
  • Advanced Design - Our most advanced portable car battery jump starter ever. Featuring high-discharge lithium technology for safe operation in any climate. A rugged and water-resistant enclosure rated at IP65. A rubberized over-molded casing to prevent scratching or marring of surfaces. And an ultra-compact and lightweight design weighing just 2.4 pounds.
  • In The Box - GB40 UltraSafe Portable Lithium Car Battery Jump Starter Pack, Heavy-Duty Battery Clamps, 12-Volt Car Charger, Micro USB Charging Cable, Microfiber Storage Bag, User Guide, 1-Year Warranty, and Designed in the USA.
NOCO Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12-Volt Ultra Safe Portable Lithium Car Battery Jump Starter Pack For Up To 6-Liter Gasoline And 3-Liter Diesel Engines
Specs:
ColorGray
Height4.6 Inches
Length8.3 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2015
Size1000 Amps
Weight0.4960400899375 Pounds
Width4.1 Inches
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19. Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge

    Features:
  • Glow in the Dark Face
  • Air Pressure Release Button
  • 17" Flexible Hose
  • Angled & Ball Chuck Included
Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge
Specs:
Height1.5 Inches
Length11.5 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateOctober 2012
Size0-60 PSI
Weight0.3 Pounds
Width5.5 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on replacement parts

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where replacement parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 237
Number of comments: 21
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 104
Number of comments: 26
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 96
Number of comments: 45
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 80
Number of comments: 49
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 76
Number of comments: 19
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 70
Number of comments: 45
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 66
Number of comments: 22
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 50
Number of comments: 23
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 43
Number of comments: 23
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 38
Number of comments: 18
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Replacement Parts:

u/refboy4 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

  • Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.

    > A little portable air compressor

    can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...

    >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).

    I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.

    >Spare fluids.

    Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.


    > Tire pressure gauge.

    To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.

    > Jumper cables.

    Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.

    > A tow strap

    is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.


    > Tire chains.

    Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.

    > A shaker siphon

    Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
u/scheides · 1 pointr/S2000

Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.

You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.

Parts:

Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6

Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.

Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18


Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC

While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.


Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.


Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.


1 rule: HAVE FUN!

u/DiViNiTY1337 · 4 pointsr/simracing

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

  • Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.

  • TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,

  • Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.

    All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.

    The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.
u/vaultwanderer94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

u/ratmachinest · 1 pointr/gadgets

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

u/youAreAllRetards · 6 pointsr/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.



u/jleviathon · 2 pointsr/ElectricForest

Here is my secret list shhhhhh... It's not cheap options that's for sure but I like being comfortable I guess, and it's stuff that will last for years of festival fun!

  1. A deep cell marine battery: Available at any auto parts store for about $120. You can then buy a cheap cigarette lighter hook up and intall it onto the battery. Then get yourself a decent 200watt power inverter, about $30. Then you can get some decent sounding speakers that plug in or a bluetooth one. Then you can charge your phone, power the speakers, or charge the bluetooth. With these speakers the battery will last 16 hours! This will also prevent you from ever messing with your car stereo or battery for any reason. Then you can just recharge it with this for next year.

  2. Blackstone's The Dash Portable Gas Grill and Griddle Combo is a great grill to cook every meal you would ever need.

  3. Not to get controversial but these and these have always done me right.

  4. Then this and this will leave you fealing like a million bucks or like someone in GL!
u/Pfffffbro · 5 pointsr/Vive

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.

Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:

1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.

2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:

3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).

4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.

5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.

6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.

7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.

8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.

u/xrandx · 1 pointr/GoRVing

> Hello,
> I recently purchased this sucker, an '88 Falcon 190SLR built on a Ford E350. It is in quite remarkable condition

Diesel or gas? Say diesel, please for the love of god and engines.

> My intention's for me and my doggo to go across the US with it over the winter, using a mix of parks/motels

What breed? Many parks restrict larger breed dogs, particularly pits.

and the occasional bout of dry camping. The toilet and shower were taken out of it for more storage space (it was most recently driven from OR to Alaska and back last year), so I would not go too hardcore on the boondocking. (I thought about replacing the toilet at least, but i must admit to liking more storage.)

Get a portapooper. Parked where no one can see you, who cares? Even better/cheaper....a bumper dumper.

> I know I'll need a generator (and a hitch I suppose), and I intend to buy a used one locally. I'll probably wanna get some better locks or security on it too I suppose. I'll be working along the way, so I'll have my laptop with me, but that'll be the main power user.

If you aren't parked long, or have the time to wait, solar is sufficient to charge a laptop or you can charge it off the van alternator while driving. When I go out deep in the woods I carry one of these and charge it off an inverter while driving. It's great as you get both 12 volt DC from a cigarette lighter plug and USB

> A couple questions:
> I intend to visit some pretty damn cold places -- Vermont, Maine, the CO mountains. Am I big enough that I gotta have chains, or can I find some snow tires for it? Should I grab an engine block heater while I'm at it? Any particular experiences with camping out in the cold? I'll be on propane heat, and I'll look into some insulation I can stick on the windows/fantastic fan on the ceiling.

CA is the only place I'm aware where they will actually prevent you from traveling without chains. You might NEED them but probably won't be required to have them.


> Any suggestions on some better locks/security for this guy? Or should I bother?

No locks are going to keep out someone determined to get in. Chances are if someone is trying to break in they will ignore the locks and break a window. Best defense is don't have/show anything worth stealing.

> I'll also be around FL in Jan, my first time there in years. Given that this is prime season, would I need to reserve well in advance at any camp I wind up at?
> Anyone else have one of these and know of anything in particular I can expect to break midway?
> Thanks! (More q's will probably occur to me later, but you know how it goes.)

u/Adame409 · 1 pointr/Mustang

For the head unit I used a Pioneer 4200nex (this head unit is pretty much the same as the 8200nex(which is the top of the line head unit) but without the navigation. There really isn't a need for that feature since this head unit supports Android Auto and Apple Car Play, they both use their own maps)

For the dash kit I used the ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit (if you decide to go with this kit, the wire harness is already included inside the box)

Then I used the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module so they would all communicate with each other, that also took care of the A/C, steering wheel controls and will also connect to the ODB2.

I did not install this myself, but the installer told me that it wasn't too difficult, and it was his first time installing this kit/radio into a mustang.

I love it!!! It was worth the all the money I spent!

edit: if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask :)

u/Flowmaster44 · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

For budget mods, the best bang for the buck in my opinion is lighting. Its nice to be able to see where you're going. The headlights on your Cherokee use H6054 sealed beams. Many people replace those sealed beams with composite headlights which allow the user to replace the bulb inside of the housing. That opens you up to a myriad of bulb choices. Be sure that whatever housings you get are DOT approved. Most of the stuff you see on eBay and Amazon are for offroad or show use only, not designed to be used on roads. That's because many of them have not been through the testing procedure of the department of transportation. If you run headlights that are not DOT approved, you could get pulled over for it or fail your safety inspection if your state does inspections.

The best way to increase the lighting on the front of your Cherokee is to either buy or make a relay harness for the headlights. From the factory, the voltage goes through the headlight switch and out to the headlights. The length of wire, thickness of wire, and condition of the switch can negatively affect the delivery of power to your lights. Only a small drop in voltage can have very noticeable effects on the output of the lights. The fix is to utilize relays to draw power directly off of the battery and feed that power to your lights. All the factory wiring stays in place and is used to trigger relays rather than supply power to the lights directly. Here is a link you can follow if you want to make one yourself. http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm If you'd rather buy one, many Cherokee drivers are going with one made by Putco. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G Some of the reviews of that product specifically talk about using it on Cherokees.

Buying a kit, following the directions, and watching a couple of youtube videos showing how to install it will be a pretty simple project for you and not cost a lot of money.

Other budget mods include mixing and matching of parts with other Jeeps you'll find at the junk yard. The tie rod from a ZJ (1993-1998 Grand Cherokee) with the V8 engine is thicker and more sturdy than the tie rod that comes on a Cherokee. It'll fit and gives you increased strength. The control arms from WJ Grand Cherokees (1999-2004) are fully boxed instead of the U channel of our XJ's control arms and are bent inward to accommodate wider tires without rubbing.

u/noonyxd · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Would recommend getting a GK61 from banggood, either with a plastic or aluminium case: https://www.banggood.com/Geek-Customized-GK61-Hot-Swappable-60-RGB-Keyboard-Customized-Kit-PCB-Mounting-Plate-Case-p-1389481.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN (plastic ver.)

You could probably use any MX stem keycaps, but if you don't have any laying at home, I'd personally buy these: https://www.banggood.com/61-Key-ANSI-Layout-OEM-Profile-PBT-Thick-Keycaps-for-GH60-60-Mechanical-Keyboard-p-1163283.html?rmmds=detail-top-buytogether-auto&cur_warehouse=UK

Then a switch of your choice; for your budget, I'd recommend these switches:

For tactile, MX Browns

For linear, MX Reds, MX Blacks

For clicky: MX Blues, Kailh Box Navy, Jade

Now, to get the best bang for your buck and a great typing experience from your keyboard, I'd recommend lubing your switches and clipping and lubing your stabs.

If you want to know how to lube your switches and mod your stabilizers, I'd recommend watching these videos from a guy named TaehaTypes, an experienced custom keyboard builder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cD5Zj-ZgMLA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSgPKPoFo2k

If you would want to lube your switches and mod your stabs, you'd probably want to buy lube, dielectric grease and teflon grease.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=twister_B06ZXR55WD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

There are many lube options, but I recommend this one for a beginner like you: https://switchmod.net/products/tribosys-3204, or if you believe you are able to apply lube consistently and are using linear switches, you could buy this one: https://switchmod.net/products/krytox-gpl-205-grade-0

I think that's about all, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask me!

u/Sethsual · 1 pointr/wichita

Spy Tec G1WH. Capable of wide angle, and 1080p/30fps recording. The way it works is that it records in 5 minute blocks - once it runs out of room in the memory card, it overwrites the oldest block. The caveat is that it doesn't play well with Class 10 micro sd cards, so I use a 32GB Class 6. I believe I have an 8-10 hour window of current 1080p footage, which should be more than sufficient.

I also purchased a dashcam hard-wire kit, in conjunction with an add-a-fuse kit. It might sound daunting to a layman, but it was actually incredibly simple to wire up. With it, the dashcam turns on when I turn the car on (I wired it in to the car stereo), and turns off when I turn the car off. This was necessary for me because one alternative, using a power adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter, wouldn't work due to my cigarette lighter always being powered, even when the truck is turned off. Also, my install is clean as hell - the only things visible are the cam itself, and about four inches of power wire running up to the headliner.

Here are the specific items I purchased, on Amazon:

Dashcam, $53 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ0J452

Hardwire kit, $15 shipped
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S73FE8A

Add-A-Fuse, $11 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GKEXK2

Rearview mirror mount, $9 Prime
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JWGC29U

Class 6 32GB MicroSDHC + adapter if you don't already have one, $16 Prime
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IVPU7DQ

Running total for everything above, to your door, about $105. Install takes about ten-fifteen minutes by yourself. You can probably get a local shop to do it if you prefer, for a cost. Hell, I'd even lend a hand if you wanted, so long as you promise you aren't a total fucking weirdo.

Edit to answer your second question: Yeah, I like it. For $100, it's probably the best quality you'll find. With it installed, I often forget it's even there; it's tucked away behind my mirror. The peace of mind that it adds, should I ever need it myself, is great. Also, catching stuff like what's in the video is a huge bonus!

u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar

    Keycaps:

  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/germanbini · 2 pointsr/homeless

Hey I'm not the OP, for more info please go to the original post to congratulate them. :)



Personally I DO live in a van, it's a 1992 Chevy G20 Gladiator. I have a memory foam mattress on top of a wooden platform, totes and cardboard boxes for storage (food, clothing, etc.) underneath. having the mattress off the floor gives space for storage, and also insulates the mattress from the heat or cold of the ground.

For privacy I have tinted windows, non-adhesive window film, collapsible foil sunshade for the front window, and black bug screen mesh like this for the side windows.

For water I use sturdy Arizona tea jugs. I have a basic Coleman camping toilet for nighttime and emergency uses - some people simply use pee bottles or five gallon buckets.

If it's cold at night I have a [12V electric blanket](https://www.walmart.com/ip/TREKSAFE-12-Volt-Heated-Travel-Blanket-White/54609929] and/or a 12V "car seat" warmer that I put under the mattress. I also have a propane Little Buddy heater which I have not yet used.

My main luxury item is an Alpicool C15 refrigerator powered by two 35AH "house batteries" (in parallel) which are charged using a Battery Doctor isolator. The Battery Doctor is run by my alternator when I drive-it only starts charging the house batteries after my van battery is full. The fridge uses 5.8AH per day. I used a cooler for a year, but the drawbacks are constantly buying or procuring ice (like from soda fountains), and food spoilage from it getting waterlogged, plus having to drain it frequently.

For hot meals, I use a 12 volt "lunchbox cooker" (works similar to a crock pot) which is powered in my cigarette lighter while I drive (or I can run it with the house batteries through a 12v splitter - the Alpicool is plugged into the other side. I also have a propane camping stove which I have never used.

I have a USB mini fan to run at night, or I can run my small regular fan through the 300W power inventor where I can also charge my laptop and/or phone (I usually charge the phone in the cigarette lighter).

I don't make any money if you buy from any of these links, but I only used them for illustrative purposes - I encourage you to shop around on Craigslist, eBay, Amazon, Walmart, check yard sales, etc. find the best priced similar item that works best for you. You don't have to get everything all at once - I didn't. But if you can get a basic minivan or van (seats removed), a mattress (or sleeping bag even) on a frame, and some jugs of water, it's a start.

u/doitskippy · 1 pointr/motocamping

Yeah that's the idea, just a little hard flat thing that you can turn into a cooking/eating surface using what you'll have. The campsites may or may not have amenities provided. I almost always camp at places that have potable water, a picnic table with benches, a critter-proof food locker, and a fire ring in each site. They take a little bit of the isolation and manliness out of the experience, but I'm usually camping with a couple girls in the group and girls seem to appreciate having toilets and showers even when they're off in the woods somewhere. For a first trip you'll find things like not having to pack clean water really handy, so if that's an option I'd go for it.

Another thing you might find really handy is [this little charger] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that plugs right in to a battery tender plug. If you don't already have a battery tender plug for keeping your battery charged when you aren't riding for a bit, I recommend picking up one of those too. This thing will let you charge your phone or camera. A phone doesn't suck up a ton of juice, but since you may not have a jump handy I'd just idle the bike while charging to make sure you don't end up with a flat battery.

Take loads of pictures, man! Let us know how you liked the experience. Best of luck.

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 3 pointsr/motorcycle

Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight and I would get a battery tender as well, attach the pigtail that comes with it so you can easily plug it in when at home.. Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame and the engine block, it needs to be clean and tight as well. Make sure you know absolutely the correct way to check if your oil level is correct. Adjust your clutch cable, lube all pivot points, foot pegs too. Be sure your headlight is adjusted correctly for your weight. Buy a Haynes manual and put it in the bathroom where you’ll end up reading it through a couple times. Use some injector cleaner like Seafoam in the next few tanks. Get an inexpensive multimeter and some JIS screwdrivers to keep from striping heads, and some T-Handled Allen wrenches.

www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

Here’s a good write up to save. https://m.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A good used bike evaluation checklist, pretty detailed. http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html

JIS Screwdrivers. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A handy USB adapter for your Tender Pigtail. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Seafoam, Walmart has it too. www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

u/aveeight · 1 pointr/Triumph

Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.

This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.

https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/

I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.

Basically get these:

Arkon Case

Tender Adapter

Battery Tender Harness

And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.

Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?

u/WATCH_DOGS_SUCKS · 1 pointr/simracing

G920 bundle, includes the wheel, standard 3 pedal set, and their 6+R H-gate shifter, all for about $308. This fits your criteria near-perfectly.

Thrustmaster TMX Pro package, includes the wheel and T3PA pedals, all for about $270 (currently). Unfortunately, you'd have to buy their shifter separately, which can push the price up to about $400 altogether.

Similarities

Both wheels are not interchangeable, so you can't change the rim itself. Both are fully compatible with Xbox One and PC.

Differences

Because of the TMX's belt/gear hybrid system, its FFB is generally considered considerably smoother than the G29/G920's helical gear system, and the T3PA pedals are better than the Logitech pedals in both size and resolution (accuracy). Not to mention that Thrustmaster's shifter can not only be used as a handbrake in sequential mode, but is a 7+R shifter, which is pretty handy when you're playing games with high-end cars. The best part: if you get this bundle and end up wanting to upgrade to the TX (the TMX's big brother) later on, you could use the shifter and pedals you already have with the TX base.

On the other hand the G920's base an be hard mounted (the TMX can only be clamp mounted), and has a leather-on-metal wheel, compared to the TMX's rubber-on-plastic wheel, if that matters to you.

u/funbob · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

  • Radio - $128.86

  • 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77

    -or-

  • 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00

  • Battery charger - $21.85

  • You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99

  • You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49

    side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63

    additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.

    Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.

    Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
u/atetuna · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays

$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.

$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.

Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.

If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.

u/Ruleryak · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

It's not going to be the most efficient setup, but it can work. Basically, the biggest loss will be charging the batteries. Think of it like this - the generator is a gas engine spinning a motor that generates dc power. That power is converted to house current (ac) in order to let you plug in to the generator. A battery charger then converts that back to dc and charges the battery - so a portion of the power is lost in both conversions. If the goal is just charging batteries, a motor and an alternator generally cover that purpose better than a full generator.

All that said - your 800w genny, plus a trickle charger, plus a battery, plus an inverter will work out for your as well. The trickle charger works with whatever power the generator has available to charge the battery, and when you're using the power at night from the battery you'll need an inverter to run lights/gear off of the battery.

You'll probably want to charge the bikes directly from the generator too. If they use a 12v battery then you can charge it with the same setup. Charging one battery at a time, and needing several hours to charge each means you'll need to run the generator quite a bit during the day. Bring extra oil, make sure you know how much gas it consumes while running, and be safe with it. Make sure oil/gas don't get on the playa!

I would highly recommend getting something with higher wattage. 800 running is very low. I'd also recommend getting 12v lighting/gear so that an inverter is not necessary. Running 12v lights directly from the battery at night will be much more efficient than using an inverter, because you eliminate the conversion process. The inverter is the most likely piece to malfunction out there due to heat or dust so not needing one at all definitely is preferable.

u/hunsuckercommando · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar

- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights

- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.

- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space

- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies

- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.

- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it

- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.

- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.

- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for

u/chicagoose3 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Sorry about the delay. I don't bring much non-obvious stuff, but here are some thoughts that I think are helpful.

  1. Have zip-ties and have them handy. You can fix so much stuff in a pinch with a zip tie, from busted fairings to securing a paper towel/rag around a fork if your seal leaks to any number of other things. Of course all of this is useless if the zip ties are buried deep in your bags. I keep a few in the Camelbak I ride with for easy access.

  2. If you're mechanically inclined at all, bring a handful of your most used tools. Most bikes have 3 or 4 typical sizes for allen keys, sockets, and screw drivers. You don't need much (you aren't going to rebuild anything on the side of the road) but quickly tightening a loose fastener on the go beats waiting until you get to town or having to ask a shop to tighten a bolt for you. Like the zip-ties, these should be your quickest/easiest access things.

  3. Obviously you'll be carrying a phone, but if you're also running a helmet comm system I cannot recommend a USB battery tender enough (even just for a phone it's great). You can charge right off your bike battery if you need some juice in a pinch. It's like $10 and installs in under 10 minutes.

  4. Pack light on clothes and supplies, especially if you aren't camping. You don't need much and you aren't impressing anyone under your helmet and jacket anyway. A lot of AirBNBs and some campgrounds have laundry so you can totally do it on the road if you're gone long enough. The less you have to pack up and strap down each morning, the better.

  5. Stay hydrated. I usually drink a bottle of water or, better yet, fill my Camelbak to drink as I head down the road at each gas stop. You don't usually realize you're dehydrated until you're already there and it's easy to make mistakes at that point.

  6. The most important tip is to be open to changing plans on the fly. Weather, bike issues and recommendations from strangers on the road can really alter your plans but that's what makes it the most fun. I try to set a goal each night for where I want to end up the next day, but having a hand-and-fast rule like "I HAVE to be at this point 2.5 days from now" can really frustrate you if conditions aren't perfect. These trips are nothing if not incredible lessons in adaptability and improvisation.

    If you've got more questions about a specific pack list or anything else, feel free to ask.
u/rainishamy · 11 pointsr/SleepApnea

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.


Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.


Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

u/RunOnSmoothFrozenIce · 1 pointr/telescopes

Good to know, hopefully I would be able to rig a panel up to charge a battery like this (since that's what I have :) ). Ideally though, I would be able to run the scope off of the panel as directly as possible. I didn't go into depth in this (which maybe I should have...), but my hope here is to use the panel at solar outreach events that I do (schools, camps, general things) to show how directly useful solar can be, as well as how (relatively) easy and cheap it is to set up a very small array, or just buy a charging pack off the shelf. Where I am (Southwest CONUS) we get a lot of sunlight, and something like this is just about affordable enough that, for example, someone who goes to a campground for a week could bring it along to power a coffeemaker or charge their phone/laptop, without having to worry about running their car battery down or whatever.

u/mechanicalgod · 2 pointsr/simracing

I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

u/YarrJay · 6 pointsr/ft86

Equipment

  • Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  • Custom 3d printed housing
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  • USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  • DC-DC Converter
  • Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  • Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  • Add-a-fuse
  • Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system

    Must Have Apps

  • GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.

    Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:

  • pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  • address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here

    More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
u/Ewing_Klipspringer · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Thanks for running this contest, /u/Sp3cia1K !

Here's my list of 5, and I can guarantee that the first item I have listed is unbelievably useful for anyone with a car.

  1. Car jump starter - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-Starter-Built-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4 - You just plug this is in at home to have it charged, and it can jump start your car whenever your battery may be dead. It also has a built-in air compressor to help with a low/flat tire as well as USB and 12v power ports to charging any devices you have with you. My car battery has been having issues, and this could've really saved my ass.

  2. Mechanical V8 engine model kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJYE0S4 - I had one of these as a kid and absolutely loved building the thing. It has every moving part in an engine along with electric starter, LED spark plugs, and transparent valve covers (so you can see some of the movement). If you have the patience to build one, you'll adore it.

  3. Tech tool kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AIGUU9C - Ever want to do your own repairs on your computer or other electronics but you didn't have the proper tools? Look no further.

  4. Breakfast sandwhich maker - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XO6NJSW - This sweet thing lets you cook your egg, heat your meat, and toast your breat all at once with one appliance to have delicious breakfast on the fly.

  5. Daft Punk wall art - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NZFPJYO - If you love the robotic duo as much as I do, this thing would look stupendous on your wall.
u/AltF4Uninstall · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.


A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).

u/anthonyooiszewen · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Ah yea, it's one of those things you know they won't notice but you want to get right anyway. Kinda like how you can spend dozens of hours and multiple failed attempts perfecting that one aspect of your signature roast chicken and the girl you cooked it for just says "hmm I like the chicken."

feelsbadman but at least I can fully appreciate it.

But yea, lubing is definitely crucial for after a nice homecooked dinner date making a nice custom board. If you think 3oz is too much, you can always buy the smaller one. Not too sure about shelf life but it still works the same for me after a year.

u/lothlin · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I've already got a dedicated charger for it, looks like the inverter is probably the best plan. So picking up one of these guys - http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462991533&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter - to go with the inverter and the standard usb adapter is probably going to be my best bet.

I appreciate the help!

u/Bassblaster505 · 1 pointr/carmodification

EASY! you can do the install yourself ALL those Chrysler RES NON boston radios are nothing special. i done a FULL system in my 2012 200 (dual amps, new speakers, head unit and subwoofer). Right so head over to amazon or crutchfeild.

for a new radio you'll need a idatalink RR module and CH-1 plug and play harness to retain your steering wheel buttons.

for your dash kit to fit a new radio you have 2 options. SINGLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK644 DOUBLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK642 Since you want a touch screen you need the double din kit

SPEAKERS: Doors and rear deck are 6x9s and dash are 3.5's. for the doors NO ADAPTERS ARE NEEDED and MOST 3.5's for the dash wont need mounting adapters either. But check on crutchfied for fit as the real nice chunky woofers dont fit. But Rockford Fosgate PUNCH, Infinity reference, Kenwood Excelon and Focal Integration will drop right in if you just cut the plastic "cup" the original speakers sit in.

​

you do have to pop the door panels off to get to the speakers and the dash speakers you have to take the A-pillar trim pieces off. rear deck the rear seat needs folded down and more C-pillar plastic trim popped off. theres better guides online then i can describe on a text post.

​

the best buy free installation probably doesnt include the smart harness required to swap out the factory radio

u/user865865 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Nice work, this is like a bigger, better version of my light with 1' Q strips and a mix of spectrum. I also oversized mine some, 150 watts total in a 2'x2', and have it so I can turn on and off each group. I'm using just regular switches for the groups and I have to adjust the pot manually to keep the power where I wanted it using one of these to measure. Did you go a more advanced route? I'm working on upgrading and controlling everything via an arduino and using relays to turn the light groups on/off and for autowatering and a digital potentiometer for the % power.

I finished one grow with my light at full power in flower, but ~40 watts are side lighting, 10 watts per corner. My light is only around 10"-12" from the tops, and the side lights are only a few inches away. I didn't see any big advantage to the side light, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them, but I'm using them again this grow. Maybe I'll move 2 up top and keep 2 low and see what the different sides look like.

I'm curious to try to learn more about if this is wasted energy and if so, how to tell

u/alshayed · 2 pointsr/CPAP

You are right about needing in the neighborhood of 50 AH (ResMed battery guide @ https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf if you haven't seen it yet).

The 12 volt scooter batteries are usually 35 AH so that's close but not quite. Two linked together would do it, or look at the 12v 55AH SLA batteries (example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K8V2LZI). I like the AGM/SLA batteries better than the regular deep cycle because they are sealed (non-spillable) lead acid instead of flooded.

Then just make sure you order the ResMed DC adapter and you should be good to go. It might be nice to have a cigarette adapter with eyelet terminal instead of the alligator clips version that comes with the ResMed DC adapter, here's one for example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y.

u/vim_all_day · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I got great results out of the stock headlights by simply upgrading the wiring. I ordered one of these Putco harnesses intending to upgrade the bulbs later, but I got enough a big enough boost in light that I haven't found the need to upgrade the lights themselves.

If you decide to upgrade the bulbs, I'd recommend a more reliable harness, but this is a cheap/quick alternative.

Good luck!

u/jamminj2 · 2 pointsr/GiftIdeas

For the gun lover in him:
https://www.amazon.com/RYMMES-Magnet-Mount-Holster-Rated/dp/B07CNJSYVG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gun+magnet&qid=1567827470&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Gag gift for BBQ's:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EDXTBS/?tag=097-20&ascsubtag=v7_3_3_93r_7fu_6_x01_-srt5-

Gag gift for basement game night:
https://www.amazon.com/Bud-Light-Bluetooth-Speaker-Universal/dp/B073214RL4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5J5P0EQ6JG5AGBEJW7M6

More and more people are switching to minimalist wallets:
https://www.amazon.com/Ridge-Authentic-Minimalist-Blocking-Wallet/dp/B01M5J3NB1/ref=sxin_4_ac_d_rm?ac_md=5-3-cmlkZ2Ugd2FsbGV0-ac_d_rm&keywords=slim+wallet&pd_rd_i=B01M5J3NB1&pd_rd_r=fb567723-84c2-4d4c-b21e-51d382f031ba&pd_rd_w=SkqaJ&pd_rd_wg=H1Hqw&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=1XZE9GPYV9339EV4C0BR&qid=1568479111

Can never have enough light if you own land:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Portable-Camping-Lantern-Batteries/dp/B01C5QSENQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=led+lantern&qid=1568262448&smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9&sr=8-4

Portable jump starter, could be good since they're secluded:
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1Q2A8F30TYJXS&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter&qid=1567875160&s=gateway&sprefix=portable+car+ju%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-5

Gettin up there in age, never lose keys again:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GLXY253/ref=twister_B07H3P7P1C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome for the tea drinker:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stainless-Steel-Electric-Kettle/dp/B072DWYBL7/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d2F0ZXIgYm9pbGVy-ac_d_rm&keywords=water+boiler&pd_rd_i=B072DWYBL7&pd_rd_r=82445bc3-1356-425b-9c9a-74b33aedcd4f&pd_rd_w=dKQFd&pd_rd_wg=x3oY0&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=FECY2A01DTHMTKSKSVDX&qid=1567875726&s=gateway

Good smart house starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Gosund-Compatible-Required-appliances-Certified/dp/B079MFTYMV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=wifi+plug&qid=1567958319&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNEI5TUwyNVJLVDZMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM4MjA3MVlHMzVNRTFYWlZZUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ1Nzg1MjAyV1BNSjAyUlhMUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

u/restloy · 2 pointsr/Trucks

I like wheel well covers. Finishes the truck appearance wise and gives good protection to the underside. Not a flashy investment but definitely one I'd make before many others.

Get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539442816&sr=8-3&keywords=genius+boost

Or get a combo air compressor / battery jumper combo. When you need it, and you will, you'll be thankful.

u/elkster88 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Many battery maintainers use the Battery Tender style of harness, like this item. It's nowhere near 4 or 6 gauge, more like 14 gauge max (higher number = smaller wire).

If you want to use 4 gauge jumper cables that's totally OK, bigger is better. But your battery maintainer probably doesn't put out more than 1 - 2 A, maximum which is safely and easily handled by that Battery Tender harness.

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 9 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

A headlight harness will help a lot. H4 conversion housing like the ones made by Hella (I have the e-code) will be amazing.

I highly recommend against getting cheap flea-bay junk like those Cree lights. Spend the money on quality parts for your own safety and others on the road.

u/jgillison1222 · 3 pointsr/VEDC

I would not recommend a full size battery, I work in an autoparts store and see brand new ones off the shelf dead. They will also loose charge overtime. Instead I would recommend a portable jump pack. I have one and used it twice to jump start a car and it still had full battery. The one I have also has dual lights on it with various functions and a usb power port. Its a little cheaper than a fullsized car battery and won’t go bad after a few years sitting.

NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7UfIAb057BART

Jumper cables as well, because its a good idea to have extra options in case you need to jump or be jumped

Tow strap, only get this if you have an idea as to what you are doing/experience

Tow hook/tow hitch

Mini cheap chinese tire inflator (got it for free, but it does work)

For long trips you can consider bring some oil and a few qts of trans fluid, just make sure you can easily add the trans fluid, may need a funnel or may be a sealed pan.

Water, deerpark makes these fantastic durable 1 gallon bottles I see go on sale for 10 for $10

Gurantee no one will tell you this, but it got me unstuck in the middle of west virginia on a freezing night and has worked getting friends out. That would be 2x4s and a handsaw, or just some precut 2x4’s. I’ve used these to give a 05 F250 traction in mud, I also used a bunch of wood to get myself unstuck from a ditch I backed into. Was able to build the bottom up with wood and gas it quickly
in reverse. Thank god for that one.

Flashlights, even just some cheap junk will work.

If its cold enough toss a cold weather sleeping back in the trunk.

If you can carry a gun inside I suggest looking into that.

People will mention the typical clothes/food

u/GreanEcsitSine · 3 pointsr/gaybros

Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.

Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).

apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.

Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!

u/SoberBrent · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
pic

Amp

spectrum analyzer


6.5s

solar panel

buck converter

battery mount



I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker

With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.

Edit: also using this to monitor solar output

u/MrChamGR · 4 pointsr/Fiat

I would suggest following the linked guide with a few changes / notes below : https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/how-to-2012-fiat-500-double-din-radio-install.7412/

  1. The double din dash adapter seems a bit iffy from the Amazon reviews, YMMV: https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FT4276B-Double-Select-Vehicles/dp/B00RL9L9F8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=FT4276B&qid=1573525758&sr=8-1
  2. Antenna Adapter on Amazon for ~10 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWLTP6R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. For the headunit I'm assuming you'd want bluetooth and Android Auto / Apple Carplay? I would highly suggest the Kenwood DMX706S : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SMBMQ5Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. To use the head unit after install without actually splicing your parking brake and other cables, get the Kenwood bypass cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FY8P9QC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. To tie all this together, you'll need the wiring harness. I suggest idatamaestro:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4W1644/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012F8RC1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    You will make an account and flash the firmware to the appropriate car make/year and head unit model.

    I've only installed a basic 1 DIN stereo on my old 2013 500. I suggested the above head unit and wiring harness because I've installed that on my 2017 500 and had great results. Best of luck.
u/ItsADanThing · 2 pointsr/shittykickstarters

A typical (small) car battery will have at least 60 Ah of capacity at 12V nominal, meaning the battery has about 720 Watt-hours of capacity. An existing phone charger which is significantly larger than the magic plastic box has 15 Ah of capacity at 3.7 volts, or about 56 watt-hours of capacity (7.8% of the car battery).

Now let’s talk about boost converters, they will need to boost the internal voltage to about 13 volts to charge the car battery. Something like this 5-amp converter would work. Not only does this take up space but it is expensive, higher currents cost even more and will require fans or large heatsinks to prevent them from burning up. This converter states about a 90% efficiency for a 60W output; This will give us an 7.0% charge of the car battery and will take about 50 minutes to do it.

Not to mention most cars require the ignition to be on or in accessory mode to power the cigarette outlets, the ignition may draw upwards of 20 watts while the accessory mode will likely draw 5-10 watts, significantly reducing your battery charge.

Realistically for the size they show it will probably have about half the capacity of the existing charger I linked. Giving us about 30 watt-hours ( 4.2% of car battery) between this and losses in wires and parasitic draw you could expect about 2-3% charge, insignificant if your battery is actually low or dead.

TL;DR : Best case you could get about 7% charge on your car battery after an hour. If you like the idea get something like this instead, or better yet get one of these and a separate phone charger.

Bonus: This picture.

edit: changed picture link for a single picture instead of the massive combination one on the kickstarter.

u/AnxietyCanFuckOff · 3 pointsr/Vive

I posted this above, It can be cheap but if you want something that feels right.. it's not so cheap.

>[Thrustmaster](https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1537753451&sr=1-4&keywords=thrustmaster+steering+wheel+pc&dpID=51bn3uOuWAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
) on amazon is $160. It comes with pedals. But honestly after a month I upgraded to much better pedals and then bought a shifter ended up costing me over $400 by the end of it all lol. You can get away with just the wheel and default pedals though.

u/egohavoc · 2 pointsr/okeechobeemusicfest

Get a cheap hanging shoe organizer and hang it from your easy up, you can store your snacks and stuff in it!

If you have the funds get a utility battery that can jump a car, I use one to keep 10+ phones topped up for the majority of the weekend. This is a newer model of the one I have.

Firefly lights a great way to illuminate the camp at night and one use of the batteries should last all weekend as long as you turn them off during the day.

Easy ups are usually 40-50 bucks at Dick’s sporting goods. Although my one regret is getting one with a larger footprint than the covered area (legs are angled outward). The ones that have the same covered area as the foot print (legs go straight up and down) are much better, especially when combining a few easy ups together!

All I got for now

u/hansmoman · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I wouldn't trust it to hold a charge more than 6 months without being plugged into either 12V or the house.

As far as how the marketing nonsense goes, something like this is probably the minimum size I would look for: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC

It says 1000A but I would put the figure at about 200 amps. If you watched AvE's or Motoyam's reviews it looks like the '7000J/3S' is probably the true figure. The 1000A is completely bogus. Simply doing the math:

Current Voltage = Power

Power
Time = Energy

So:

Current Voltage Time = Energy

Current 12V 3s = 7000J, solving gives 194 amps.

u/jacco1995 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

So easy and so worth it. When you install an aux battery, change the power source for your van's inverter to it.

Isolator Relay: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0

AGM Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C or Something comparable

Voltage monitor (very helpful!): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_bxgy_23_3

100A fuse

2-4 gauge wire

terminal ends

A voltimeter is very helpful in finding a wire that runs > 12v while the car is running. Have one, buy one, borrow one, etc. This was really the only challenging part of the installation because you have to test multiple wires for voltage.

Once you're done installing it you'll be able to comment on these posts and tell people how wonderful and easy it is too!

u/1ellehc · 14 pointsr/vandwellers

I would recommend a mini jump starter, like the one I've linked to, below. It's a little larger than a cellphone.

I have Schumacher's "Red Fuel" model, and love it, but this one has even better ratings.

It's great for emergency jump starts and for recharging phones and tablets. I even take mine hiking (without the jumper cable attachments of course) so we can recharge on the trail.

https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6/

Another option would be a one year membership in AAA in case he needs roadside assistance.

u/FullyBaked · 1 pointr/motorcycles

At first I only used this Cardo Scala G4 which installs into almost any helmet. Now I mainly use it just for music. The playback controls are super easy.

Very recently I added a Battery Tender cigarette adapter along with this Ram Handle Bar Base and my existing Ram X-Grip Mountwith a 1" socket arm. I just took it on a good 2 day ride and loved it completely.

u/DeviantB · 1 pointr/TomorrowWorld

I'm thinking about building my own solar power generator using 'B' grade solar cells from eBay (<$1/watt) and a ~$100 12V deep cycle battery (an understanding of electronics and soldering is required to DIY), but as a solo attendee, I'm a little concerned about transporting 'too much stuff' from my car to Dreamville in a small collapsible cart as well as my 'footprint' as a single attendee (in a 5'x7' tent with privacy shelter/shower).

If you interested in the technical details, I'm looking at 2 or 3 ~60-65W panels and a ~10mAH battery. Total weight should be about 40-50lbs with panels, mounting frame and battery. Total cost for DIY: ~$300-400 plus 12-36hrs of assembly time.

The solar array 'frame' is another concern - I considered building a PVC frame covered by a solar reflective tarp around my tent to block that ugly morning sun/heat, but if I plan to integrate a solar array into the frame, my PVC must be strong enough (and pointed in the correct direction to collect sunlight) to support my array.

I already have a schaumacher xp2260, but I want to make sure that I have enough juice for 4 nights.

I've been thinking about this problem for a month so I'm anxious to hear some input from 'festival veterans'.

u/wordstrappedinmyhead · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

My .02 worth for ya..... Go in this order instead of jumping right into a set of LED headlamps.

1 - Upgrade the wiring harness.

I installed a Putco harness in 2013 when I first got the XJ and it was a definitely improvement.
Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay

Other folks have gone the eBay route, and I bought one of these on a whim (because it was stupid cheap) just to see if the quality was worth it.
CERAMIC H4 HEADLIGHT RELAY WIRING HARNESS 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUGS 7

Ended up not installing it because I had other things to work on instead of replacing the Putco harness that was working fine. Overall though, the quality was surprisingly good and I would have used it if I didn't already have the Putco harness.

For all the negative comments people have about the Putco upgrade harness, it's still working fine a little over 3yrs later. Knock on wood, of course.

2 - Get a set of H4 housings. I bought these off Amazon, but there are other reputable brands out there which work just fine.

GENSSI DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair with Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054

These came with some crappy OCONUS-made no-name bulbs that sucked balls and were immediately thrown in the garbage.

I went to my local PepBoys and grabbed a set of Sylvania SilverStar "Ultra Halogen" H4 bulbs and threw those in the housings.

Holy shit, #1 & #2 were an incredible upgrade to the shit stock XJ headlights.

If you're looking to stay right at or a hair under $100 that's the way to go.

Last year, I came into some $$$ and got it into my head that I wanted LED headlights. Went this route: Truck-Lite (27450C) Headlamp

Wow.

Significant difference from the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade but I'm honestly glad I did the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade first.

Now that said... In hindsight, the LEDs weren't absolutely necessary and I could have put the $$$ into a SYE or something else.

But hey, ya learn as ya go. Right?


u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/scooters

This is the battery tender I've been looking at: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=EXKXHMLCA8JE&coliid=I2UXII4LHH0O1Y

I did find an excellent vid on YouTube on how to change the oil and it looks super easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNQ3myoYxdM&list=PLIr1thQ8KKEFR2x8aoMyVpqePp5O3Lhbf&index=3

If I opt to start up the scoot every few weeks, do I need to do the battery tender, too?

Again, thank you.

u/MustacheRabbit · 1 pointr/Trackballs

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

u/J_Swazzle · 5 pointsr/COROLLA

Hella Supertones are pretty popular in the Subaru scene. They’re fairly easy to mount behind the grille in most cars. Personally, I like the sound of the new Sharptones a little bit more. But there’s endless options out there. Just find some tone that you like. Most electronic horns are gonna wire up the same

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/videography

The least expensive useful solar power generator is probably this [$228.99 128 wH Monerator Gusto 10 Eco Kit with a 10W solar panel ] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUMZV6Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HUMZV6Y&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

You can plug it in and recharge it before you take it out into the field.

The batteries are li-ion, so it's not a huge lead acid brick.

I have a couple of lead acid power packs ([this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EIAADG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004EIAADG&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHQQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00005RHQQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), but they are so heavy I don't take them anywhere.

It would be a challenge to build anything less expensive than this.

Hope this is helpful and best of the holidays!

u/rubin110 · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.

​

I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...

u/MehrunesBeardTrimmer · 2 pointsr/simracing

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

u/squisheystick · 1 pointr/XVcrosstrek

GOOD SHIT MAN. here you go.

https://smile.amazon.com/HELLA-Protective-3AG-003-399-801/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543267212&sr=8-3&keywords=hella+horns

If you're not as tech savvy like me, I also got the subimod harness as well! it's expensive as fuck but made the install 10000000% easier. I didn't have any of the tools either. its a literal plug and play. lets just put it this way. it took longer to take the front bumper off TBH. LOL

https://subimods.com/subimods-v2-hella-horn-harness-kit-most-subaru-models-sm-h-hv2.html

u/goodgodamighty · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I wish people knew what that was for.
Noalox is for aluminum. That is what the "al" stands for. No - aluminum - oxidation.
It will do very little for your copper mod.
Please use some dielectric grease. It is nonconductive and will provide extremely great protection and thread things nicely.
Any auto parts store will have it, or you can just get a small tube online, like so:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409019211&sr=1-2&keywords=dielectric+grease

u/lookitsaustin · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

u/traphoopqueen · 3 pointsr/ElectricForest

out of all the camping fests ive went to over the years, forest is the most on-top of their porter poties. i schedule my bowl-movements with the clean-up crew (last year, 8am and then 5pm. judge me) at camp and in the forest, there are some nicer porter potties near sherwood court that had AC and lights, but in the venue only/VIP. as for electricity, get a portable external like [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=psdc_318336011_t1_B000JFHNQA) and for lights, just make sure it runs on AA batteries, such as [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/Outdoor-Battery-Operated-dimmable-Waterproof/dp/B01AWG1SLG/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1494260079&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+powered+lights). remember, it is only 4 days so you'll be able to take as many hot showers/eat as much good food you want after the fact <3

u/deader115 · 11 pointsr/AskReddit

Maybe it's just because I am not a hands-on kinda guy, but I would never define jump starting as being trickier than tire changing.

That being said, if you can afford a charger pack that you can keep in your trunk, those things are amazing. If you keep it charged, you can jump a car without needing a second car, and they usually come with other features, depending on the model and battery strength. I've had ones with small air compressors in them (to fill a tire), emergency lights, and an AC outlet. They can be pricey but they're great for a car emergency kit.

Edit: Something like this which I just pulled up on Amazon arbitrarily.

u/fla_john · 1 pointr/orlando

Hope you get started, not near you unfortunately. However, I'd really recommend you pick up a booster pack like this one: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC

I have one and, since I drive old... er classic cars, it's been a lifesaver.

u/clothing_throwaway · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

u/frothface · 1 pointr/vandwellers

It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.

Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.

For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.

Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.

Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.

u/Y_BOT · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

>Hmm, it seems as though if I'm going to need a toggle switch for the solenoid I might as well save myself the money and the hassle and just get one of those large manual isolator switches. Unless you disagree.

they both do the same thing, but i would go with a solenoid personally. however, there's another option that i noticed we haven't talked about, and that is an automatic isolator. something like this : https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427671&sr=8-1&keywords=automatic+battery+isolator

(take note of the wiring diagram picture on that amazon listing, it may help you).
an automatic isolator like that will automatically charge your deep cycles once the starting battery is charged up, and prevent the deep cycles from discharging your deep cycles. unlike with a solenoid or manual isolator switch, there is no chance of you forgetting to disconnect the deep cycles batteries and accidentally draining your starting battery. i would highly recommend going with something like this - it is simpler to wire up AND will be more user-friendly once installed.

>If I do in fact skip the solenoid I would imagine I would place the isolator switch on the positive wire from the deep cycle battery to the car starting battery.

Correct

>If I keep everything wired as you laid out in the diagram above, would I be able to charge my deep cycle batteries without draining my car battery AND without actually starting my car? Ehh now that I write that out it doesn't make any sense. fuck

yea the car has to be running, the alternator is what actually does the charging and its not going to put out and power unless the engine is running.

u/SystemFolder · 2 pointsr/prius

Which is why I carry this. It can not only jump other people, but it can safely jump my Prius as well. It’s actually very easy to jump start a Prius. The only tools required are a jump starter, or jumper cables and another car.

u/RectangularRug · 2 pointsr/subaru

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

u/PDXSCARGuy · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

It's hard to beat the Chinese at this one... I've seen a guy on Facebook reselling prebuilt harnesses as his own creation, but I'm more interested in making a quality product that's going to outlast the rig it's installed on. I want my reputation to be built on quality and value for the dollar.

Example:

For $20:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7-/330997592807

For $40:

https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G/?tag=vig-20

And at the premium/benchmark end:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/ipf-wiring-harness.html

If I could make and sell a harness that people would be interested in, I'd be game. We'd be talking OEM quality TXL wire, ceramic plugs, HELLA style relays... but it's not going to be $20. That's the hard part, being competitive in price and quality in relation to other offerings.

u/budjb · 4 pointsr/CarAV
u/zaroth1 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I carry a USB power pack that can also be used to jump a car in the trunk. I’ve used it on several occasions to help random strangers and it’s super quick and easy to hook up to their battery and get them on their way. It’s paid for itself in good karma many times over.

But in this case, the same device could possibly be useful for jumping the 12v battery of the Tesla, enough at least to get the hood open, and possibly enough to boot the computer and select Tow mode. It’s got a decent amperage rating, and it’s specifically designed for a short burst of amps to crank an engine, but it can also do at least 10amp sustained which might be enough drive the screen.

Something like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748D8KT6/

Here’s a video of someone doing exactly this;

https://youtu.be/6h2y3pl4DqU

An important side-point which this is a good time to remind everyone - the frunk can be opened by applying power to those leads which can be accessed behind the little panel in the front right side of the car. So you should not store valuables in the frunk!

u/jpMAGA · 2 pointsr/nottheonion

Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/_Bombies · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-XP2260-Instant-Portable-Source/dp/B004EIAADG

I'd recommend this if you have the budget for it. It's also useful to jump start your car in case... My employees use this at the camping festivals they go to, to charge their batteries. Either that or just buy extra sets of batteries to last you a week along.

Aside from that, possibly some portable chargers, or a portable charger with an efficient solar panel to recharge that as well if you have any mods with internal batteries.

u/resykle · 1 pointr/Lexus

my friends have this guy and apparently it works well enough - https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/

I also have this one for tires and it works remarkably well for being so cheap - way easier to deal with than going to gas stations - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a small tote bag w/ a change of clothes + contact lenses and spare meds just in case as well, my lexus came w/ a first aid kid so im trusting that'd cover anything else

u/Phaedrus0230 · 5 pointsr/volt

I just carry one of these and I'm not worried about it beyond that. This has also been useful when other people ask for a jump and has saved my friends who have been parked in a manner where jumper cables wouldn't reach their battery from another car.

... It's also a huge usb battery bank and can be charged from usb, so I could start my car using a small goal zero solar panel if I really needed to.

Other than that, I have one of these in my dash DC port, which lets me keep an eye on the 12v when I'm running an inverter as well as monitor interior temp.

u/yawg6669 · 1 pointr/astrophotography

$67 for a charger?! Screw that. The battery seems ok, 120 for a 65Ah is alright, I think mine was like 90 for 75Ah though. Get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CITK8S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462148457&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=battery+tender+jr&dpPl=1&dpID=51BIMpwea9L&ref=plSrch

Btw, will you ever do multi night use? If so, you may want to consider a larger capacity, like 100+ Ah.

u/spike_africa · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

u/justhereformyvans · 1 pointr/vandwellers

3 questions, please bear with me!

  1. Anyone have experience with the low frequency AIMS 1250w inverter / charger? I've seen alot about AIM's other units, but not this. Thoughts? Also, after looking through the manual, still having a tough time figuring out the right fuse size.

    ​

  2. Also considering using the Wirthco battery doctor instead of the Keyline 140amp battery isolator because of the jump start ability. What do you think?

    ​

  3. I've seen alot of people attach to the CCP points on the ford transit. Any reason more people aren't just going straight to the battery terminal?

    ​

    Thanks for the help

    ​
u/JustinSThompson · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ

I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.

u/YamahaCruiser · 1 pointr/motorcycles

https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC

I have one of these that I consistently use, which is the main thing. Get something that is of good quality, and use it almost exclusively if you can. I like the ease of something with a bleed-off valve, since ease of use will encourage you to check your tire pressure often.

u/IceCreamforLunch · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Six to ten months isn't a terribly long time.

Top off the fuel tank. Make sure the tires are inflated well (to near the maximum specified on the sidewalls). No need to worry about flat spots on modern tires in a year's storage.. Then your best bet is to put the battery on a battery tender:

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500037320&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+jr

If you don't have access to power where it's parked and have someone that can look after it, you could do a solar float charger (someone will have to keep the snow off of it if it is going to work).

You can also take the battery out and put it on a float charger inside, but that's the least convenient option if there's a chance anybody might need the car.

Make sure you do not store it with the parking brake on. The rear pads will rust/fuse to the rotors and it can be a huge pain to free them up.

u/HugeMongo · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

> Does the wheel come with transmission stick?

I wouldn't call it a transmission stick. This is my wheel, wich is on the cheap side. It has a stick but is just like two buttons you can push with it. More expensive wheels let you connect better sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

or if you have money to burn you can buy something like this

u/dyniper · 4 pointsr/ouya

The problem is that Ouya didn't want to spend <0.01$ more on the controller, so they omitted grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controller (maybe I should have made a video...):

    1. Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
    1. Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
    1. Get yourself non conducting grease (like this one)
    1. Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas http://imgur.com/bv5wEWN (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
    1. Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
    1. Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.

      I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!

      EDIT: grammar
u/tpw_rules · 5 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

They make add-a-fuses which are cheap and super easy to install. Pick one up next time you're at the parts store and whack it in for peace of mind. I used one to install my dashcam.

u/wintersdark · 1 pointr/motorcycles

As others have said: don't skip the battery tender. Get something like this and leave it plugged in all winter. This will keep your battery in good shape.

Don't do this, and there's a good chance come spring that battery won't hold a charge as well (or at all) anymore.

On or off the bike doesn't matter.

u/aDDnTN · 3 pointsr/Triumph

when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.

this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.

there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.

you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.

Link to lead sold without tender

Link to Battery Tender Jr.

u/FrontLeftFender · 1 pointr/SaltLakeCity

My car jumper has saved me a couple times. They're great. I'd only say that the one you linked is pretty small. For $10 more this one has 5x the capacity, higher peak output (jump bigger engines), and a pump. It also has a 12 volt output, a light, and a USB output to charge electronics. It is a lot bigger, though.

u/masterf99 · 1 pointr/sportster

I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.

Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)

u/Taurik · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar

We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

u/fatasianboi · 3 pointsr/Fixxit

Wouldn't you know, I'm about to wire some horns into my brothers 78CB750! But Yeah I have two hella super tones http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI and wired a relay. Your original wiring probably can't supply enough current for the aftermarket horn. If it hasn't failed it probably will soon fail if you're trying to push current like that through a factory wiring harness. Look up how to wire a relay it's really simple,

+12v into relay from battery (terminal 87),

+12v into relay remote/trigger basically the positive lead that attaches to your factory horn now goes to terminal 86

Ground terminal 85

And finally +12v out from relay that goes to your aftermarket horn Terminal 30

Then you ground the horn wherever you want.

u/phil128 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

u/arightproperpotato · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

  • Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  • How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  • Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  • Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  • If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)

    Shopping List:

  • Fuse tap

  • 12v Socket Plug

  • Anker 2port USB car charger

  • 15ft micro USB to USB cable
u/dkman22 · 55 pointsr/LatinaCuties

You'll want to add a fuse, it's the safest way to go about it and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/BUSS-HHH-Amp-Add-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

u/Peripheral_Installer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

u/RyDuke · 1 pointr/supermoto

I just had this happen on my KTM 690. Turn the bike on, but no fuel pump sound when restarting from hot. It would also happen when the bike was sitting in the hot sun. You should get a new fuel pump. I bought the CA cycleworks pump that is superior to the OEM POS. Here it is for your bike My bike runs waaaay better now. Pulls harder and smoother all around, not to mention it doesnt have a problem starting anymore.

Also get this battery tender if you want one, but thats not your problem.

u/Desmocratic · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Joes Racing

u/baconybacos · 0 pointsr/DIY

just to add to this solution - i did the same, but wired in a battery tender connector. like this: http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-cables-connectors-plugs/BTLR081-0069-6.html

Then, bought a cigarette light outlet that uses that same connector, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO

That way, when you park your bike, you can easily connect a battery tender. Then, when you head out, plug in the cigarette lighter to enable your phone charger.

u/MWisBest · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.

u/straightouttasj · 2 pointsr/Miata

I've got a set of Hella super tones. Please do this the right way and use the included relay instead of just using the old stock horn wire and "splitting it."

I didn't like the air horn option because of tight mounting space in my NA. My supers are pretty loud, it'll make you jump if you're standing in front of them when I hit it. Super tone kit is also louder than air horn kit from Hella.

u/ajt666 · 1 pointr/popups

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0

You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.

CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P

u/MazdaspeedingBF1 · 2 pointsr/cars

I used an "add-a-fuse" kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2
and used it on the ignition fuse. Now whenever I start my car my radar detector turns on automatically. I imagine the same could be done with a dashcam or whatever. It was super easy. I've been wanting a dashcam though and I'd probably be able to put it onto the same circuit.

u/Wellas · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yes, this is the isolator I bought. So, I think I'm doing it right, but not sure.

edit: Also checked the amps and my van has a 105-145 amp alternator. Not sure which one, but positive it's one of the two, and that works with 150amps so I guess I'm all good.

u/davidsson · 2 pointsr/motocamping

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
is a great way to charge electronics. For camping entertainment or just otherwise. Also look for camp sites with good hiking or hotsprings nearby. Nothing is better than soaking after a full days ride.

u/BearLindsay · 2 pointsr/Harley

K) I also need a phone mount and how the F do you get a charger or "cigarette lighter" to keep the phone charged for the Waze.

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aJygDb3YPNVR9

Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PHygDbY6Z9FSG

That gives you a charger and a battery tender.


I have this mounted to the dash extender on my Dyna:
SCOSCHE MAGDMB MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKygDb5V5QAWE
It's been rock solid for years (the tank is higher than the phone so wind doesn't catch it) and it's not mounted to the handlebars where it can distract me or vibrate loose. My post history has pictures but I've never seen a Sportster with a tank mounted dash so you'd have to stick it on the paint.

And this in the windshield of my truck too:
SCOSCHE MAGHDGPS MagicMount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q69U8YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aLygDb46TW35Y


For etiquette, I keep just about everything to a quick wave or beep-beep at most. If I happen to see some others, I usually just fall in line with them as far as our paths are the same. I ride in the back of the group and keep about the same amount of space the rest of the group has. If they ride side to side, I get as close as I feel comfortable (and that isn't side by side lol). If they're staggered, I stay staggered too. Stop lights are different. Pull right up next to them and give them a quick head nod or maybe a compliment lol

u/99Sienna · 1 pointr/vandwellers

When driving, I charge off the 12v lighter plug on the dash board with a small inverter. Like this one. Having two plugs plus USB is really useful. I always unplug it when parked though so as not to drain the car battery. Using this, I make sure my laptop batter is at full charge when I park for the night. https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-300W-Power-Inverter-Adapter/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503271065&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+inverter+to+120v

At night, or when parked for a couple of days, I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503270823&sr=8-7&keywords=car+jump+battery+pack

There are many makes and models of this kind of thing. The one I purchased was on sale at Harbor Freight. I recharge it with an extra long extension cord, depending on my stops/sleeping locations (not too hard to find places to plug in most of the time). It charges phones, tablet, and laptop. Plus, I have something just in case I am alone and the minivan does need a jump, or I meet someone who needs one.

I also use a solar powered light that will also charge my phone if needed. It sits on the dash board to charge up and then I can use it at night. I found a deal on it on Amazon Warehouse. https://www.amazon.com/WakaWaka-Light-Solar-Powered-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B00W6NTLXG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503270978&sr=1-1&keywords=waka+waka

I also carry two small battery packs (great for air travel too) that charge using the USB plug on the inverter. I make sure they are fully powered all the time.

I'm sure other folks have other ideas about how to do this without solar. I'm curious about what those might be too.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Kinda depends what you want to plug into the 12v outlet and what’s already on the circuit you’re tapping into.

If you’re just plugging in a cell phone charger or something then 5amp is fine.

If you don’t have anything plugged into the existing lighter socket plug, that’s the best one to use.

Ideally you should use a fused ‘add a fuse’ device that lets you keep the same fuse for the existing circuit and add a separate fused circuit off the vehicle accessory circuit.


https://www.amazon.com/BUSS-HHH-Amp-Add-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2

u/dfinf2 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Depends on how big you dont mind it being. The anker ones are good 600 and 400 amps and fit in a glove box. I personally have a jump n carry in my truck JNC660. It's large but I've used it dozens of times on my truck and 18 wheeler my generator cars tractors etc. Nothing has failed on it and I highly recommend it if the size isn't a bother.

u/Smerks101 · 4 pointsr/vegas

I swear by the one I have but I always tell people make sure the one you buy has enough juice for your vehicle. I had this one and it was OK for a 4cyl and "struggled" a little on bigger batteries, it never once didnt get me going though. I really want this one as its got more amps to kick over bigger cars faster.

u/Thameus · 2 pointsr/answers

You could create a device like that, but you'd want it to have its own battery to act as a giant DC capacitor, absorbing the current transient created by cranking. This would be much easier on your mains and breakers.

Here: Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Built in Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X6VXL4/

u/sd59fifty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

u/fidelityflip · 7 pointsr/FJCruiser

I have two FJs, both with upgraded audio. The Kenwood Excelon DNX695S is my favorite head unit of the two, the other is a Kenwood Excelon DNX892. The DNX659S is quite a bit cheaper, has a great layout, no mechanical door hiding the CD/DVD player, and still has the OBDII connection to monitor engine stuff, which is cool. also two inputs for front and rear cameras.

Keep in mind you will need a few additional components to fully integrate, they aren't 100% needed, but make it better: Maestro ADS-MRR to use your steering wheel controls, SiriusXM SXV300v1 if you want Satellite Radio, and a plastic trim piece to complete the bezel around the new radio.

I have a Wicked CAS Stage 2 speaker and subwoofer system in one, and stock speakers in the other. Both sound great with the new head units, but the Wicked system with the dual subwoofers is really nice. I don't have a sub in the second FJ, and miss it after driving the first.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F946YVX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A32QR6D7S73KI&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MRR-Universal-Replacement-Interface/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=pd_bxgy_504_img_2/134-9197268-1169858?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E4W1644&pd_rd_r=9886b991-360d-4091-80c8-1d4c8857e87e&pd_rd_w=eHBMr&pd_rd_wg=XXeXa&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62&psc=1&refRID=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K52CY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-cruiser-stage2-package-audio-upgrade-stereo-stage-2.html?category_id=3

u/d1rtyPelican · 5 pointsr/Trackdays

I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC?ie=UTF8&keywords=joes%20racing&qid=1463484884&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

u/lurch1066 · 3 pointsr/forza

You can buy lt from amazon or any good game retailer.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427667065&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=thrustmaster+shifter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IeTgHKflL&ref=plSrch

If you want it for the xbox one make sure you get the TH8A shifter. There's another shifter which doesn't I nearly made the mistake.

You have to update the firmware on this before it works. Yep this shifter has its own firmware, So does the wheel. Easy enough to update unplug both and plug them into a pc and download updates

u/turduckenpillow · 1 pointr/lawnmowers

Alright thanks. I'll look into buying a trickle charger. Any reason jump starting with a car wouldn't work?

This charger from Amazon decent? I know it's 12V, just didn't know if 750 mA was enough. Does show good for lawn mowers though.

u/Raptor01 · 13 pointsr/GoRVing

The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.

Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.

u/sundrag · 1 pointr/CPAP

I run mine off a jump pack and an inverter, but I have only done it for one night. Your solution is much more elegant!

https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-1000-Starter-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493409610&sr=8-4&keywords=jump+pack

u/DCashmoney · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

All-in-one emergency battery starter/air compressor/phone charger/flashlight. There are many brands but everyone should get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-Starter-Built-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4

A rediculously invaluable tool for any car. Has saved me many times from awkwardly asking strangers for help or waiting around for a tow service. Especially useful if you live in a winter climate where battery life can be finicky.

u/TheDevilLLC · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I'm a big fan of the old standby. Deltran Battery Tender. They make a nice small one that Amazon sells for about $25. Park the bike, plug it in, and you are good to go until the next time you ride. sauce

u/DonnieJTrump · -1 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.

This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.

u/AntmanIV · 23 pointsr/StoriesAboutKevin

Christmas Gift: A "jump box".

Something like this one. Just charge it every 3 months and save yourselves the AAA wait time.

u/NewbieTwo · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

As someone with soldering skills, I would just install a supercapacitor on the power lead to power the camera for the few seconds the car is cranking.

However, if you don't have those types of skills, you could hardwire your cam to an ignition hot supply instead of accessory hot supply like it is now. What you'll need is a fuse panel tap like this one to tap into a source of ignition hot at the fuse panel, and a USB hardwire kit like this one to supply the 5V needed by the cam. Then a long enough USB cable to reach from the fuse box to the cam.

Anyone with an hour or two to spare and a crimper can do this easily. If however you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, a local audio shop should be able to install this for you very easily.

u/MC_Preacher · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Great idea!

This one is by the same company, longer and even cheaper@
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-Female-Power-081-0069-8/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_luc_sbs_03_01_t_lh

I just ordered this and I ordered a 12' extension too (I have been using an extension cord)

Thanks!

u/theoryface · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

u/borkthegee · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Sorry to necropost, but I found this thread from google seeking a totally different goal, but my needs and yours might align.

Consider a car battery jump-starter, a unit which is a battery pack big enough and strong enough to produce enough amps to jump start a dead car. These big batteries can be wall-recharged (or slowly solar recharged), and can be used directly as a battery for your cellphone and lights (skipping the engine battery all together). Like https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC

For your case, you should never touch the engine battery and buy yourself a superior battery to run your life off of, right? And buying a jump-start battery gives you the freedom of even using your main life battery to fix your engine battery in times of distress.

u/95688it · 1 pointr/subaruimpreza

it's complicated, i did it when i first bought my 16'.

and don't let just any audio installer do it, they'll just hack the shit out of the harness.

you need about $200 in parts besides the headunit to do it properly

shit and it looks like the link to the blog on how to do it is gone :(

http://roflitsowens.blogspot.com/2015/12/2016-subaru-wrx-replacing-starlink-head.html

basically you need:

dash install kit

wire to keep OEM backup camera

30pin adapter you'll cut it in half and use it for hooking all these various things together

Maestro to retain steering wheel control, there's a cheaper version though with less features

adapter to retain USB

adapter for stock antenna

adapter for radio so you don't have to cut anything


and i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something else.

most of these things all have to be wired into the 30 pin connector, it was much easier to figure it all out on my workbench and solder it properly then install everything, took me about 2 days to do.

u/kc2syk · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

u/strongtrea · 1 pointr/worldnews

Jump Start boxes are great. They make cheaper and smaller ones, but this "dumb" one (no on/off switch) is perfect when helping out someone with a problem or when you leave the map lights on overnight as long as you cover the terminals and exercise care (as there is no on/off switch)- https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-Peak-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492454578&sr=8-2&keywords=jump%2Bstart%2Bbox&th=1

AAA roadside assistance in the US often carries the exact same box (I assume regular tow trucks do the same). Which I later bought myself and works great and can jump many times before a recharge is needed. But if you get one of the smaller $40 ones to keep in the trunk (take it in the house to give it a re-charge every 4-6 months or after you use it) and your battery is totally dead (vs just low) and you have a V6 or larger engine, I have found that you can make due by: (a) connecting red to red and black to black (vs black to the metal in your car as the instructions generally state), and (b) leaving the thing sitting connected for a few minutes before turning the key so as to trickle in some juice.

With a big old jump box - just connect (I tend to do red to red and black to black instead of the metal in my car) and turn the key for a good clean start even in really cold weather with a dead battery. Between not driving that much, mistakes and helping others, I use my box at least 3x a year.

u/data2dave · 1 pointr/vandwellers

$96. At Amazon: NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_koGlzbJ63TFVE

Yeah looks good and I'd like one or the bigger ones as my cheapo charger stopped working but it was a plug in and the ones for the road are batteries included like this which before lithium were much bigger and wore out quicker.

u/MitsukiNakamura · 1 pointr/subaruimpreza

If you're asking for the link to the one I got, it's currently out of stock, I got the GOOLOO 500A version for $50.

The 800A version is here: https://smile.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000mAh-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable/dp/B0748D8KT6
For $70

The 1200A version is here:
https://smile.amazon.com/GOOLOO-SuperSafe-Starter-Portable-Battery/dp/B07MJBDD5K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=GOOLOO+500A+Peak+SuperSafe+Car+Jump+Starter&qid=1563153797&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
For $80

I hope that helps lol

u/WinifredBarkle · 4 pointsr/250r

Definitely get a battery tender for when you don't ride it for awhile.

And yeah, the connections the tender comes with look like little alligator clamps, so I can't imagine how you'd do it with a regular set of cables.

Get the battery tender, clean the carbs, turn up the choke, and go again! God my next bike will be fuel injected!

u/asgeorge · 1 pointr/motorcycles

What bike? A throttle lock will help a lot. I use this from Vista Cruise. Works well with a little bit of fiddling.

Definitely get a helmet speaker system that can bluetooth to your phone. I use the Sena SMH-10. Worth every penny. You can stream Pandora straight to your helmet and one touch on the control activates the voice dialing function on your phone.

Also a 12v lighter plug for your phone charger will keep the tunes and maps and emergency comms working. I use a cheap lighter socket ($6) that plugs into my battery tender port. I run it into my tank bag where I keep my phone.

u/SnoopLion89 · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

I got the Hella housings that take an H4 bulb, then put SilverStars in them because I like the nice white color temperature.

I think the biggest difference honestly came from this harness. With it bypassing the stock wiring (if I remember correctly it just uses the stock light cables to trip the relays) it can supply a lot more juice from the battery.

I have the 55/60 watt bulbs now, but I might swap in the 90/100's when these go since the harness can support them.

u/inimitablegeek · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You've got pretty much everything you need for a solderless build on that list


If you want to save ~$50, you could get your stabilizers and switches elsewhere. Outside of Zeal's offerings, Kailh's BOX Black switches are probably the smoothest unmodded linears on the market, and you can get 70 for $21 from NovelKeys.


They also sell Cherry screw-in stabilizers for $2~3 each, if you don't mind them not being gold-plated. I've never tried Zeal's stabilizers, but imho, clipping, lubing, and bandaid-modding Cherry ones will probably make them feel just as good to your fingers as any more expensive kind would. The only thing you'd probably need to get is dielectric grease, which you'd only need a few drops of per stabilizer.

u/ontheleftcoast · 2 pointsr/TeardropTrailers

This is the meter, hookup is pretty easy. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou3gAb7RH4KPW

u/cheapngood · 1 pointr/scooters

Right on! Lots of scooters have an AC/DC eletrical system. The basic things, like the igntion, headlight and taillight run on alternating current directly from the stator. "Extras" like turn signals and brake light run off direct current from the battery, and a small portion of the AC from the stator is converted to DC by the rectifier to charge the battery.
____
With the scooter off:
Good, charged battery will read 12.6 to 12.8 volts across the battery terminals.

A "flat" battery will read 12 volts and probably not crank the bike.

A battery with less than 10 volts is likely dead, deceased, never to work again.
____
With the scooter running, and good charged battery installed:
Voltage across the battery terminals should be 13 to 15 volts.
You might have to rev the bike a little to see it charging like that.
____
Every time you crank the bike, it takes 10 minutes or more of riding to charge the battery back up. Sometimes scooters charge so little on their own, they can never catch up.

If you keep recharging your booster pack and hooking it up, it may eventually "leak" enough voltage into the scooter battery to get it to a point where the scooter can finish charging it.

Otherwise, I recommend this charger: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S It turns itself on and off automatically, adjusting the current as necessary, so it can be left plugged in any time you come home.

u/DocBrownMusic · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My bike already had a battery tender cable hooked up, so I got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041CDPQO/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047T79TA/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The USB is super small (barely even sticks out of the cig lighter). I jam this whole thing in my pocket because I use it to power my chatterbox on long rides.

$30 all together, but then you have a battery tender connector, a cig lighter connector, and a USB connector. You can pretty much do anything with that combo.

u/Boofin_Boi · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sorry for the potato quality, but this was my very first build and it was an enjoyable experience! Although lubing the switches was painful without a special tool and I had to use a small flat head screw driver, I would rate the experience as a 5/7 would build again.

The build:

Case: TOFU acrylic frosted 60% case

Plate: CNC'D ALUMINUM PLATE - blue color

PCB: 1UP RGB 60% (Hot Swap Edition)

Stabilizers: PCB stabilizers black color - 2U*4 6.25U*1 (lubed with Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease)

Switches: *68 - gateron black (lubed with Krytox 205)

Keycaps: Black 108 Key Cherry Profile PBT Double Shot Side-lit

I am very pleased with how it turned out and already thinking about what to build next lol

u/Milge · 3 pointsr/Harley

If your heart isn't set on the 2 gallon tank, try a 3 gallon. It would look good and fill in that gap between the seat and tank. I do 120+ miles on my 48 weekly.

Since everyone is mentioning phones, I use one of these when my phone dies. It will let you charge your phone off of the battery tender connector.

u/ufoh · 3 pointsr/cars

The Scion FR-S has the same issue, sounds like a clown car. It's like, "I'M SO MAD," meep. So I bought some Hella Supertones and everything was right with the world again, I could be angry and actually HONK at people.

I had the front bumper off to install an oil cooler anyway so install was relatively simple and I believe you can do it by just removing the undertray and not the whole bumper, I have no idea what you would have to do for your Matrix though. The horns came with a relay but the FR-S already has one so I didn't use it, not sure about the Matrix, you'll have to Google that. For the low tone I just spliced in to the 2 cables going to the stock horn and the high tone had a single cable which I spliced in to for a live source and ran a cable from the mounting bolt for ground.

Google's your friend, you might even be able to buy a wiring harness to ease things along. I'm a dumbass and managed this pretty easily, good luck :).

u/phillipjfried · 3 pointsr/AskMenOver30

Portable battery charger / air compressor. I was actually just thinking about this yesterday when I was inflating these giant plastic bowling pins for the end of a slip and slide. I've used this thing so many times its probably the coolest gift ever. I use it for camping to charge the phones, run the coffee pot, run a fan in the tent. I've used it to jumpstart my car countless times. Now that I have a one year old I use it to inflate all his toys and stroller.

This is the one.

Other than that its nice when someone gets me disc golf or fishing stuff as those are my two main hobbies.

u/spinnyd · 1 pointr/Toyota

I have been looking at a Kenwood unit myself, along with a Maestro adapter I can still use all the steering wheel controls and gain the ability to reset cel codes and monitor tire pressure. Apple CarPlay is just a bonus.

Kenwood DMX7705S Car Stereo Double Din Radio with Apple CarPlay Android Auto Bluetooth, 6.9" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLQDDQP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LyE.Bb7HQVQJZ

Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_czE.BbDH0EDAC

u/TheGoingVertical · 1 pointr/Ruckus

Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ

They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.

Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.

u/vinnard · 3 pointsr/motocamping

I've had this for over a year and it works great

If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.

u/lomlslomls · 2 pointsr/VEDC

I've owned and used this compressor over the past five years and it's been great. Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor. It does connect directly to the battery but that prevents blowing fuses when trying to use the 12v outlet in most cars.

On battery jumpers I've tried a few but found the GOOLOO 800A Peak 18000mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter works very well. I've owned three of them. The first time I had to use it was after it had been sitting in my trunk for six months without a recharge and it worked like a champ. I gave that one to my brother in-law as it was his battery that was dead and we were parting ways after a road trip vacation. I bought a replacement and have used it probably a dozen times, often when I see someone with their hood up in a parking lot and offer them a jump start - works every time.

u/cr0ft · 1 pointr/vandwellers

You need a smart switch for convenience, in my opinion. They're not that pricey. You can use them to let the power flow from the alternator to both batteries, but prevent power flow from the car battery to your appliances. This way, you'll never get stranded.

And with a smart switch that lets you connect the batteries in parallel with a button press, you can also start the car off the "house" battery pack in case the starter battery goes wonky or you accidentally drain it with a car radio or something.

It also charges your car battery with priority, which is what you want. When you start the van, you want the power you used to start it to be put back in it first, and then charge the house battery pack. You don't want the car battery drained because, again, hello being stranded.

Install it and forget it, basically. Why not do it right while you're installing it in the first place?

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20092-Battery-Doctor-Isolator/dp/B0058SGDFK for example.

There are manual options, relay based options and then fully electronic smart options like this. Go with the smart option.

u/Fulmario · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

The optima suggestion isn't going to solve the battery drain issue. Yes, it's a heavier duty battery. But if you keep pouring out 1/2 cup of water out of a jug and only replace it with 1/3 cup of water, you'll eventually run out of water.

Really needs to do a battery tender and get in the habit of plugging it in when they get home. A setup like this would be a good idea. http://s279.photobucket.com/user/NotMoneyGuy/media/IMG_3749_zps1edf0d2c.jpg.html

Have a quick disconnect say dangle through the grill of the car and plug the charger in nightly.

Edit: I like the Battery Tender brand myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494516072&sr=1-3&keywords=battery+tender

Or the faster charger:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494516072&sr=1-5&keywords=battery+tender

There are stupidly simple, just plug/connect them to the battery and they're automatic.

u/teknoanimal · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

If you are in a city you might be able to locate an auto supply store near by and sweet talk them helping you out. Or the might have something like this

u/blueman1027 · 1 pointr/simracing

Its been great!

I have yet to run into any issues with the wheel itself, though I feel I should warn you that if you're on carpet, the pedals don't have carpet spikes. So, you'll need to have something weighty either behind them or holding down the front. Otherwise, they will tip backwards when you hit the brake pedal.

Also, the price dropped to $150 for a couple of weeks not too long ago. It's back to $200 now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale again in the next few months, if you're willing to wait.

As for getting a shifter, you can, but it's expensive. The only one I know of that's compatible is the TH8A.

Feel free to reply here or PM me if you have any more questions. :D