Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement shocks

We found 94 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement shocks. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 65 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD

Bilstein24-187053
Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height0 Inches
Length0 Inches
Number of items1
Weight4.40924524 Pounds
Width0 Inches
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7. Bilstein AK7112R04 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

    Features:
  • Bilstein a trusted industry leader
Bilstein AK7112R04 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm
Specs:
Height2 Inches
Length37 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateOctober 2012
Weight8.81849048 Pounds
Width7 Inches
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9. Bilstein 24-187152 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Frontier 2WD/4WD

PVP
Bilstein 24-187152 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Frontier 2WD/4WD
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0 Inches
Length0 Inches
Number of items1
Weight4.6 Pounds
Width0 Inches
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17. Bilstein 33-187174 2" Lift Rear Shock for Toyota FJ Cruiser,Silver

TOYOTA FJ Cruiser 2" Lift RearShock Absorber Shock
Bilstein 33-187174 2" Lift Rear Shock for Toyota FJ Cruiser,Silver
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0 Inches
Length0 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMarch 2013
Weight5.9 Pounds
Width0 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on automotive replacement shocks

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive replacement shocks are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Shocks:

u/SlipperyFingers · 6 pointsr/overlanding

First order of business is to get it in as good running condition as possible. All the mods in the world won't help if you are broken down. Find out what is causing your CEL and get it fixed.

The bouncy ride is likely due to bad/worn out shocks. Replace them with higher quality parts. You can get Monroe load adjusting rear shocks (look like coil overs) for about $90 for both. They are helpful for fighting rear end sag when you are loaded up. There are a lot of options for the front shocks depending on what kind of ride you prefer.

If your shocks were neglected, your other suspension components might be used up too. Replace the upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and might as well check the brakes too. Check to make the bearings in your wheel hubs aren't worn out either. If you can't stop or a wheel falls off, you will be in rough shape.

Change all of your fluids too if you can. This includes your differentials, transfer case, engine oil, trans, and coolant. You never know when the last time some of those have been changed, or what kind of condition the oil/fluid is in until you check. Test your battery or replace it if it is over 5 years old.

As far as mods go, start off with the basics. Get good tires that are designed for off road use, not passenger rated street tires. You can fit 31x10.5r15 tires with no problems or modification needed. Your tire choice will vary depending on the terrain you most often travel on and budget. Because of the 4wd system in your v8 explorer, you should also get a spare in the same size as your other tires. If you do get a flat, you can burn out drivetrain components because the smaller spare has to spin more than the larger tires in order to cover the same distance.

If you do want a slight lift, you can crank your torsion bar adjusting bolts in the front for a 1.5" gain. Any more than that and you will be putting too much strain on your cv joints. You will need to get an alignment after a torsion twist though. However, if you are replacing your ball joints and other front end parts too, you'll need to get an alignment anyway. For the back, you can buy a set of longer shackles (Warrior 153) that connect the rear part of your springs to the frame. That should get you about 2" more clearance in the back. You can also use an add a leaf spring to help bring the rear up more. An add a leaf will make your ride much more stiff in the rear though. If you have running boards, remove them for more clearance as well.

Set up proper recovery points in the front and rear. There aren't any good places to pull from stock, and you don't want to go breaking anything while you are trying to get out of a mess in the middle of nowhere. Also, check to make sure you have the factory fuel tank skid plate. It isn't 1/4" laser cut steel, but it is better than nothing. If you don't have one, look in a local junk yard.

You might want to get some new headlight housings too. They tend to fog and not do much at all. They are easy enough to replace and will make a huge difference on and off road. Auxiliary lights like Hellas, KCs, or maybe a lightbar will be very helpful if you find yourself off-road in the dark very often. Most of these aux lights come in a kit complete with a relay, fuse, switch, and a wiring harness. Installation is pretty straight forward and can be done well in a few hours (even if you have never done any electrical work before).

Other than that, just get out and enjoy the process of figuring out what you really need from your vehicle. Learn proper recovery techniques and always go with another vehicle if you can. Always pack emergency gear like a first aid kit, extra clothes, food, water, flashlight, and a handful of tools for quick fixes. You might find that you need a winch, awning, rtt, storage drawers, dual batteries, and full armor eventually, but it is better to build as you go to find out what is really necessary for you.

There are not a ton of aftermarket modifications for second gen Explorers, so you might have to do some custom work (or find someone who can do it for you). I'd advise that you do as much of the maintenance on your own as you can. That way if something fails, you will know where to begin troubleshooting and will hopefully be able to fix it. If you haven't already found it, ExplorerForum.com is a VERY helpful place. Tons of DIY guides and other resources for Explorer owners.

u/prelenque · 1 pointr/Volvo

sounds pretty similar to mine... at 153k now and engine and tranny seem solid still but working through the misc things that are dying.

I will say I’ve been able to do things a tad bit cheaper... i price things out between fcp euro / IPD and then I check Swede speed for cheaper alternatives if people have tried stuff... I replaced the front wheel bearings on mine with aftermarket wheel bearings for around $150 for both and have had good success. You need a press though - so beware, it was pretty time consuming. I did struts and shocks + brakes that day as well. You can do that a bit cheaper as well - FCP Euro for the front struts with Bilsteins ended up reasonably priced and for the back I got KYBs (KYB 741067 AGX Gas Shock based on mynameideasweretaken recommendations and have been pleased. They say they don’t fit, but they definitely do for AWD V50. They won’t be suitable for powered vehicles though I suspect. Ride height is practically stock with them. All in all it was around $350 for all the struts i believe. I did the strut bearings as well.

Next up is the front axles and lower control arms 😒. Those are pricey. I’m taking a gamble and got afternarket ones on advanced auto parts per a mechanic friends recommendation (he replaced a bunch on P1’s and had good results). Ended up being ~$250 for both. If it turns out poorly I’ll update this though... I just couldn’t quite justify the $1000 fcp wanted for them.

I also had my fan blower motor start clicking the other day... at $300 for the part and a days work of labor (it’s deep within the dash) I was less than thrilled with Swedish wagon. Thankfully it stopped clicking but it’s only a matter of time 😞...

u/RadicalGentleman · 1 pointr/cars

No problem! I love to help others as others have helped me a lot in the past, gotta pass the knowledge on :D

I got KYB 348023 Excel-G Gas Shock

Did them myself as it was just, jack up the car, lift up trunk mat, and wrench it off (highly simplifying on my part, but it wasn't bad). I try to do as many things as I possibly can, but since I don't have another car to use while this is out of service or have the tools to do somethings, I try to choose my battles as best as I can.

I used NGK Iridium spark plugs

However, I also noticed they sold a pack of 4 and ACCORDING to Amazon it fits my 08 Civic. These were also pretty straight forward to do, removing the electric power plugs was kind of annoying, but was pretty simple.

I just went to the dealership to buy the transmiossion fluid and coolant as those I heard SHOULD be Honda fluids, but correct me if i'm wrong. I also did those myself as they were like oil changes, pretty straight forward. The brake fluid flush thought required bags and bleeding the system so I bit the bullet and went to Brakes Plus and used a coupon. Got Dot 4 flush for $45, solid deal to me.

Power steering pump had a leak so idk if you would need it. I would go get a multi point inspection to see what you need for things like that. Same with the rear sway bar links (even though this is part of the suspension and is considered wear).

Swar bar links, serpentine belt (forgot to mention this one), and 4 wheel alignment costed me $433 at the dealership after some discounts. I have a Brakes Plus CC (Synchrony Car Care) so anything over $200 I can finance for 0% interest over 6 months as long as I pay in full. Discount tire, my dealership, and SOME garages take it. Comes in handy, especially for tires as Discount Tire (my fave place) has an additional rebate if you use their card (sometimes).

Power steering pump was $200 because of my deductible, but an additional $233 for the hose and labor.(rubber doesn't get included in the warranty because wear). Here I could've argued that the labor overlapped and maybe gotten it cheaper. Just asking doesn't hurt, sometimes they just slap on x% discount if you're nice, timely, and/or come often.

I can't wait for when I get carbon ceramic pads because theyll give off less dust and since I detail my car, its annoying cleaning that brake dust off. The extra stopping power (compared to worn OEM pads) will be nice as well. The next set of tires has me worried because I love the wet and dry traction of my current set, but my wallet doesn't like their lifespan. My next possible worry is the transmission...

u/Kytann · 2 pointsr/Trucks

Alright, I've got some of those mods so I think I can help.

Front: Fox 2.0 struts. I have these. While they are decent, they are actually stiffer than I would've liked. Even with a big off-road bumper and winch and skid plates hanging off of the front, it feels like the spring rate is just a bit too stiff compared to my rears. Always have a lid on your coffee, or it will spill from smaller bumps.
Large bumps are soaked up amazingly well. But the small stuff is too stiff, and just feels Medium Premium. If you can afford the extra cash I'd recommend the Icon 2.5s. You'd get the Digressive valving which would help alot. Or simply the Bilstein 5100s.

Rear: I am running stock springs, A lift block kit (Pretty sure it was the Readylift 3"), and some Bilstein 7100s. Yes the 7100s. Remote reservoir race shocks. AK7112R04 is the part number. Absolutely worth it and amazing shocks. Wish I could do the same for the front. For reference, previously I had Raptor rear shocks (plan on selling them in the spring) on here. The Bilsteins 7100s are nicer in every way. Highly recommended. You do have to drill out the mounts for larger bolts: 13mm vs 1/2". And the readylift blocks keep me from compressing the rear too far.


Tires: I have had the Cooper Discoverer STT tires for the last 60,000 miles. Looks like I will get another 20,000 out of them. They are great, lots of stiction in everything short of glare ice. Amazing in snow, the deeper the better. Not too noisy, about the same as wind noise around the mirrors. Plus they last forever.

Here's an old video I made to show how a muffler delete isn't too loud, but it also demonstrates the tire noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSGtgFvCh7A

I wouldn't bother with a sway bar. They hang low and impede ground clearance.
I don't really have an issue with Wheelhop with my big heavy tires and good rear shocks.

​

Anyway, hope this all helps.



u/BTRTHANU · 2 pointsr/ToyotaTundra

5100 shocks
This is the setup I got, stock springs fit. My alternator went out at about 175k miles. I get oil changed 4-5k miles. Timing belt water pump changed at 182k. Follow up with me on anything else you do I’m interested! We basically got the same truck.. see you at 200k miles 👌🏻👌🏻

u/autolex84 · 4 pointsr/XTerra

The realistic, "not doing moab every day" answer is a set of the next step up in the Bilstein lineup (5100 series), something that's an improvement but not full on "I can feel the size of the gravel in the pavement" level of suspension diva...

​

Conveniently, Amazon sells/stocks them... Links:

you'll need two of the Fronts and two of the Rears. apologies, rear of xTerra is THIS model.

​

Background: Owner of an 09 xTerra S 4x4 (2010-2014 and 100k+ miles) and current owner of a 12 Pro-4X Frontier (2017 - now, "travel/trip" vehicle, 10k miles?).

​

This was my first "upgrade" on the frontier. $340ish plus tax?

Worth it, and wish i'd done them on the xTerra, it's a better handling platform imho...

u/slocaddy · 1 pointr/caddy

I'd also recommend replacing the shift bushings because after 30 years of wear they can get sloppy! I bought this kit off of eBay, although I'm sure there's other vendors (side note: 5 speed is a good swap if you can find one to replace the 4 speed) Another poster on here also suggested these air shocks to stiffen up the ride if you ever need to haul anything.

Other than those, I'd probably suggest regular stuff like wheel bearings and new brake hoses. Parts Place Inc has been my main source for parts and I don't have any complaints about them.

Post some pics in this subreddit when you get a chance!

u/xc0z · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

No, but neither do the other kits.

If you want a full on lift kit, they cost a considerable amount more.
Front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1310-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJKBGC
Shocks: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-SK010645RXT-Twintube-Shock/dp/B006GJJUYG
Rear springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1462-Leaf-Spring/dp/B006GJKG1W
OR rear shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Shackles/dp/B00X8JPJCE
Rear SYE Driveshaft: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-5076-1-Drive-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AEV4S
SYE: http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Heavy-Duty-Slip-Eliminator/dp/B007I5B6PS
Extended front brake lines: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF5LQ
Extended rear line: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Extended-Stainless-4-6-inch/dp/B00B2AF61ArefRID
Front Trackbar: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Front-Adjustable-1-5-4-5-inch/dp/B00B2AF0MU
Leafspring shims: http://www.amazon.com/Warrior-Products-800062-2-5-Degree/dp/B004NOTHSK
And of course, the long arm kit you pick.

That list comes to 2k, and has everything you need.

a full pre-assembled long arm kit will cost you about 2k(see here: https://www.claytonoffroad.com/search-shop?field_product_vehicle_tid[]=12&field_product_categories_tid[]=66). Kits usually dont include everything you need, either... Buying parts you need separately will save you cash, and you can opt for a more expensive, or less expensive part. Be prepared to turn a wrench... the more turns you put in, the more cash you save(in most situations).

What you're asking is "I want a lift, but don't know what to ask about". The above is ALL the shit you need to get 4.5" out of your jeep without being a huge cheapass and doing it wrong. It's expensive to lift a jeep, and people seem to think that doing things like using blocks, pucks and a transfercase drop is the right way. Sure, you may only spend $100 to get 2.5 inches, but you'll see extreme vibration, issues with steering and tracking, pinion oiling, etc.

Save your cash and do it right the first time.

u/OneHorseCanyon · 1 pointr/fordranger

Wow three inches! My shocks have 90k on them I probably wouldn't see that much haha. I'm not really after suspension lift in the rear, I've been thinking I would level it with a t-bar crank and then get a body lift later on. I like the idea of more load support. How is the ride?

Are these the ones you got?

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/ImStanDarsh · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Yeah they are pretty stiff but they handle oversized tires really nicely. I was hunting down the cause of some gnarly deathwobble after lifting my WJ and I believe the Bilsteins had something to do with fixing it. All it took was adjustable LCAs, 4 tierod ends, new front upper bushings, new coil insulators, bigger track bar bolts, stiffer trackbar bushings, bilstein shocks and 2 alignments. Piece of cake.....

Also, I got mine off of Amazon pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-Cherokee-Monotube-replacement-absorbers/dp/B01N6LDQ1U/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1DQ0A8WVOBD3U&keywords=bilstein+5100+jeep+wj&qid=1570146305&sprefix=bilstein+5100+jeep%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3

u/getthegreen · 2 pointsr/f150

I have a 17 stx. Haven’t done any major upgrades yet but cheaper things I’ve added are

  • husky floormats off Amazon Backseat Front Seats (console style)
  • Found a used ARE campershell on Facebook marketplace for $500 not color matched but $500 was too good a deal to pass up after pricing out a brand new shell. Hoping to get it sprayed with bed liner eventually, I kind of dig the two tone.
  • [Black plastidipped all the chrome F150 badges on the side fenders and tailgate] (https://i.imgur.com/Mmp6iM7.jpg)
  • DeeZee tailgate assist
  • Peeled off the STX decals in the back, just looked dorky to me. Came off easy with just my fingernail.


    Future stuff I want to add include

  • Subwoofers. Maybe it's just me but the sound system is totally lacking. I had 2 12's in my SUV before owning this truck and I constantly find myself missing them.
  • Leveling kit
  • Will probably also plastidip the wheels after seeing a few other folks do it to their STX wheels. Otherwise keeping my eyes on Craigslist or Facebook to eventually get a set of raptor takeoffs.
  • LED headlights eventually. Crazy expensive it seems for a nice set though, those will probably wait for me.
  • You could get the FORSCAN device and make changes to your truck/computer system, I haven't done it yet but will eventually.
u/SystemHalt · 2 pointsr/hondaprelude

I wouldn't replace the springs, they're probably fine.

Those rear struts are hard to find, only place I found them in stock is https://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-SHOCK-ABSORBER-UNIT-R-RR-SHOWA__52611-SF1-904.aspx ...and I know nothing about that website so proceed with caution. Amazon.com has them listed for Prime but they're OOS at the moment; https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-52611-SF1-904-Shock-Absorber/dp/B00KTLYBDC If Rockauto has the rear struts I would just get those, and install them using the existing springs but make sure to purchase new strut mount kits for each side. I'd go with these: http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=52611SF1904
And ideally you'll want to replace anything rubber, so 2x mount kits and 2x insulator's if you're only doing the rear.

As for the front struts, Amazon has KYB's that will fit:
https://www.amazon.com/KYB-341073-Excel-G-Gas-Strut/dp/B000C3ZCQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517847617&sr=1-1&keywords=kyb+341073&dpID=31HweufCZBL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/KYB-341072-Excel-G-Gas-Strut/dp/B000C40S4C/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000C40S4C&pd_rd_r=8NFS0755RT4T9XETXVG2&pd_rd_w=PeQyY&pd_rd_wg=5l8KS&psc=1&refRID=8NFS0755RT4T9XETXVG2 Or get the Monroe equivalent: http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/71829

However, I'm wondering if the sound you're hearing is the infamous "shock knock", but I've only heard of that happening to BB6's. Long story short it's the collar sleeve on the rear struts being 2mm too long and hitting the top washer. But again, I have no idea if this applies to non-5th gen's. It's a metal tapping sound that can occur with even the smallest bump, and I'm talking TINY bumps. Usually worse at low speeds when driving in parking lots or neighborhoods. If you're only hearing sounds intermittently when going over noticeable bumps then "shock knock" is probably not your issue.

Shock knock info here: http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f146/shock-knock-fixed-248073/
http://www.preludeonline.com/f89/write-up-5th-gen-shock-knock-fix-tsb-00-090-a-13702/

2 months ago I just replaced all the struts on my BB6 base, here is what I purchased to give you an idea of what parts are involved:

1x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=341178&position=Front%20Left&mfrlabel=Excel-G&parttype=Suspension%20Strut

1x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=341177&position=Front%20Right&mfrlabel=Excel-G&parttype=Suspension%20Strut

2x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=341179&position=Rear&mfrlabel=Excel-G&parttype=Suspension%20Strut

2x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=SM5058&position=Front&mfrlabel=Mount%20Components&parttype=Suspension%20Strut%20Mount%20Kit

2x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=SM5059&position=Rear&mfrlabel=Mount%20Components&parttype=Suspension%20Strut%20Mount%20Kit

2x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=SM5486&position=Front%20Upper&mfrlabel=Mount%20Components&parttype=Coil%20Spring%20Insulator

2x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=SM5360&position=Rear%20Upper&mfrlabel=Mount%20Components&parttype=Coil%20Spring%20Insulator

4x https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/themes/kyb_americas/partnumber.php?part=SB108&position=Front&mfrlabel=Strut%20Boots&parttype=Suspension%20Strut%20Bellows

PM me if you have any questions on the parts, I did quite a bit of research and educated myself on everything suspension related.
Good luck!

u/jetsintl420 · 1 pointr/4Runner

Bilstein 33-187174 2" Lift Rear Shock for Toyota FJ Cruiser - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N6R2NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l5tByb2788RET


Bilstein (24-186711) 5100 Series Front Shock Absorber - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FU77ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d6tBybEZQP0Y2


Moog 81045 Coil Spring Set - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YMHDWO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_26tByb6TQCHHV


Moog 81090 Coil Spring Set - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VJYAVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k7tBybEZP5CCK

I had some serious rake going from the saggy XREAS so I pulled out all the XREAS and went with these. I only needed to lift the front because of the rake and just wanting it leveled so I set the fronts to the highest or second highest setting and put stock springs on the back.


The listing for the rear shocks says it will lift it 2" but this doesn't do the lifting like the front shock does, it only accommodates extra lift from a stronger spring so those could be paired with fj springs rather than 4Runner ones. I didn't do this and mine is just about perfectly level, but it would've looked fine with an inch or two of lift in the back too.


I ended up with just about 3" of lift in the front and a .5-1" in the rear due to the old springs being saggy.

u/Bageeka · 1 pointr/Jeep

I actually have the zone 3" lift and I love it. But I have an 06 LJ, and a much longer rear drive shaft which means I didn't need a SYE. A regular TJ absolutely needs it and would require hundreds of dollars more upgrades. I wouldn't have gone 3" if I had a TJ since I didn't have the money to upgrade the driveshaft

I had the fat bobs coil spacers installed on my ZJ (which fits all TJ/XJ/ZJ) and it was good quality and fit great. I didn't get longer shocks and eventually flexed mine out and ruined it so I'd recommend getting 2" longer shocks. These are the ones I would choose because you ride quality is dictated directly by your shocks. And with the parts I listed you're under $500

u/11lariat · 1 pointr/Trucks

I generally use Monroe Sensa-Trac or Reflex as OE replacement shocks. Sensa-Trac rear shocks can be had with a coil spring built into the shock, which seems to help keep the rear end of my old Exploder from sagging. Something like this (but not this PN): http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58578-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C55MOW

I have had good success ordering them from Amazon - usually the cheapest price, and I have Prime so I get them in 2 days.

If the ones you have are in that poor condition, anything you put on it is likely going to feel great in comparison.

u/1988fc3s · 2 pointsr/Trucks

these are the ones i got. thanks for the compliment!

u/connorkmiec93 · 1 pointr/f150

This is what you want. Well worth it and easy install.

u/mrgabinator · 1 pointr/f150

A typical XLT tailgate is basically hinged with a cable to limit its fall. So when you open it and just let go, it can drop pretty hard/loud. The tailgate assist is a shock absorber like device that you can attach that causes the tailgate to drop smoothly. My truck is my baby (my wife thinks I'm nuts because I protect my spray in liner with a blanket :-D), so, I like the gentle drop :-).


Here's the one I installed -- about $25. Cheap upgrade for a luxury feeling feature.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AP2BNS0

​

Put your new ride in a cool place, post a portrait of it, and tell us all about it!

u/ColdPost · 2 pointsr/s10

https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58523-Adjust-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000C59ME

​

These will stiffen up the rear a good deal. they replace your shocks as well, easy change out.

u/Subtlefart · 1 pointr/4Runner

Do you mind showing me some links? the best I can find is $400 just for the shocks

u/ThaddeusJP · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Bought as a pair on Amazon. Just over $100 w/ shipping. Now the time we spent swapping them out... well that was probably 15 hours total. We're not fast.

Edit: they will fit a 97 Explorer.

u/Th3gre3k · 2 pointsr/XTerra

These are what I got and I love them
Bilstein 24-187169 5100 Series Rear Shock for Nissan Xterra 4WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9Q1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZErgxA1LiOcM2

Bilstein 24-187053 5100 Series Front Shock for Nissan Xterra 2WD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WO9P1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mfMpcZ4asZXVe

As for installation I don't know I did it myself it's fairly easy.

u/boourrns · 1 pointr/f150

Here's something incredibly minor: I just put a tailgate assist shock on my '17 today. It takes about 10 minutes to install, feels great when you lower the tailgate, and only costs $25.

u/ShiftyAsylum · 2 pointsr/f150

I have basically the same thing, except the STX with 20" wheels. Same color scheme, everything. I loved the black on blue.

  • This is the tonneau cover I bought.
  • This and this should cover your interior if you don't already have them. Lifetime warranty, and they cover basically all the carpeting.
  • I also bought one of these tailgate shocks, so you can drop it and it doesn't just slam down.
u/dyelife · 1 pointr/ram_trucks

> 5100 Ride Height Adjustable shocks

These them? https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-24-187367-Front-Shock-Dodge/dp/B004WO15F4

Thanks

u/frigginjensen · 2 pointsr/f150

It’s a cylinder. I think this is it...

Amazon Link

u/joeysdad · 1 pointr/FordExplorer

I had considered that but I needed new struts anyways. Two birds, one stone. The Monroe strut spring combo fixed the sag and I got new struts.

http://www.monroe.com/en-US/e-catalog/58617

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C53RXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477966664&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=58617

u/aardvarkspleen · 1 pointr/caddy

Just Racelands in the front. 3" drop plates in the rear with air shocks.