Reddit mentions: The best automotive spary paint

We found 145 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive spary paint. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 49 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

12. Kleanstrip BD ADH Promoter 15OZ AERO (KLE-ETPO123B)

Makes Paint StickDesigned for Spot RepairReady to Paint in 5 Minutes
Kleanstrip BD ADH Promoter 15OZ AERO (KLE-ETPO123B)
Specs:
ColorClear
Height9.4 Inches
Length2.6 Inches
Number of items1
Size15 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)
Weight1 Pounds
Width2.6 Inches
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15. POR-15 45918 Top Coat Chassis Black Spray Paint 15 fl. oz.

    Features:
  • ✅ WHY CHOOSE POR-15 TOP COAT SPRAY PAINT? – POR-15 is an industry standard for high performance protection against corrosion and rust. Our direct-to- metal coating is essential in all applications where there is a need to help preserve substrates susceptible to corrosion. POR-15 Top Coat provides excellent adhesion and best when used over POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, works to provide a permanent barrier.
  • ✅ LONG LASTING PROTECTION - POR-15 Top coat has exceptional long-term sheen and color retention, with a hammer tough finish that won’t crack or peel. It can be applied directly to metal substrates or previously painted surfaces without need for primer or undercoat. Formulated to form a robust barrier that sheds moisture.
  • ✅ APPLICATION - All surfaces must be clean and free of all dirt, loose rust, oil, grease, wax, soap, loose paint & any other matter. Use 25-30 lbs (170Kpa-210pa) pressure for normal gloss. It dries to touch in 30-60 minutes. POR-15 Top Coat can take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness, and longer in temperatures below 55°F (15°C).
  • ✅ WHEN DO I NEED THIS? - POR-15 Top Coat is essential for that extra layer of durability and provides optimum protection against UV light that won’t fade over long term exposure.
  • ✅ OUR SATISFACTION COMMITMENT – At POR-15 we strive to bring the ultimate in rust prevention. Known for the unbeatable 3-step stop rust system, POR-15 is trusted by DIY & Professionals. We are committed to innovation, quality control, and excellent customer service.
POR-15 45918 Top Coat Chassis Black Spray Paint 15 fl. oz.
Specs:
ColorChassis Black
Height9.5 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMay 2015
Size15 Fl Oz (Pack of 1)
Weight1.15 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches
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19. Dupli-Color DE1612 Ceramic Gray Engine Paint - 12 oz.

    Features:
  • Resists temperatures up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Durable ceramic formulation
  • Superior high gloss finish
  • Item model number: ‎DE1612
Dupli-Color DE1612 Ceramic Gray Engine Paint - 12 oz.
Specs:
ColorGray Engine Primer
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
Size12 Ounce (Pack of 1)
Weight1 Pounds
Width1 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on automotive spary paint

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive spary paint are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 58
Number of comments: 2
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Top Reddit comments about Automotive Spray Paint:

u/tmbridge · 7 pointsr/woodworking

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

  • 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  • A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  • Granite slabs
  • Metal File
  • Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  • Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  • Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  • Rags
  • Murphy's Wood Soap
  • Olde English Wood Restorer

    I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.

    I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.

    The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.

    Albums
    -------
  • Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  • Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  • Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  • Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  • Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  • Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete

    For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:

    > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.

    > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
    > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
    > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
    > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
    > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
    > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).

    It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
    > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.

    Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:

  1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
  2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
  3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
  4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
  5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
  6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
  7. Repainted bed if necessary.
  8. Reassembled
  9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
  10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
  11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
  12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
  13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
  14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
  15. Test!

    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!

    --------------------------------------------

    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
u/AwesomeArachnid · 3 pointsr/Honda

With rattle cans your options are limited, but this method is what I used on my doorjambs and its held up pretty well over the last year. It's not as sturdy as a proper sealer/base/clear combo like I used on the body but works pretty well for rattle cans.

Go to automotivetouchup.com and select the year and paint code for your car and they'll try to mix up some paint to match as closely as possible and send it to you in an aerosol can. Or you can use Duplicolor matched paint from AutoZone. And if you're car is a metallic color, forget about it matching perfectly.

For the clear coat, buy this, it's real clear coat in an aerosol can and lays down really well, buy two cans to be safe, and make sure you have a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. This shit is nasty and you don't want to breathe it.

For surface prep, sand off anything that's peeling with 200-400 grit and then finish the surface with 600 grit sandpaper, anything less will show as scratches after you're done. Wipe it down and don't start spraying base until the surface is clean and dry.

Spray the base coat on using 3 medium to wet coats, 15 minutes between coats. Let the paint cure for at least a week, all of the solvents need to be completely evaporated or you'll have a huge mess on your hands when you spray the clear.

Now that you've waited a week, sand it smooth with 600 grit again and get rid of any runs you might have had in the base coat, wipe the surface clean, and spray the clear in 3 wet coats with 15 minutes between each coat. (longer flash time if it's colder than 65-70 degrees, shorter if it's over 80) After each coat it should be shiny, but don't worry if there's orange peel after the first coat, it will smooth out as the layers "melt" together.

If you get runs in the clear, DO NOT try to fix it (don't dab at it with a paper towel, your finger, etc.), you'll make a huge mess and it will be impossible to fix without respraying the whole thing. Wait until the clear has set up for a week or so, decide if it's really worth it to fix them, and go back with 2000 grit sandpaper and a block and smooth them out, then buff it until it's shiny.

u/Escabrera · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here: https://amzn.to/2O0oZRB
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
>Respirator
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here: https://amzn.to/2Nrz10Z
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:
Mask
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B01DU2ZPHW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527054681&sr=8-5&keywords=respirator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1MK6/ref=psdc_2257619011_t3_B00IF7RAP8

>Filters
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-60923-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B00AEFCKKY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=organic%2Bvapor%2Brespirator&qid=1556003582&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1&psc=1

>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VMU2SN4?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=QCS32SZFBER5RSNBE34X

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/13aNeXXbrsHRQ14O4L9qJy682otQVSmGREF5aQ1I-I9I/edit?usp=sharing

u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you are implying ohio state buckeyes football themed case then have you considered buying a case in those colors? I was bored so went through neweggs mid atx line to see if anything matched those colors and check this out. I found a couple good options. One high end and one budget but still good.

Keep in mind with both of these you are paying more for non standard colors.

Option 1: The high end option. MasterCase H500P Mesh White ATX Mid-Tower Case w/ 2 x 200mm RGB Fans. This case was interesting because the front of the case looks sort of like the Ohio state O in the Ohio state logo. You then set the front fans to red and you have a case in the colors. There are two problems with this case. First the colors are reversed. This can be solved if you are willing to do a bit of case mods. You could use masking tape and red plasti dip around the front to create a red O shape. Then you set the fans to white. The other problem is the price, at 139 this may out of your range. Furthermore, there is a gunmetal grey version, but it is 160. Furthermore, paying 139 and then spraying rubberized coating on requires confidence in your artistic abilities you may not have.

Option 2: The budget but still good option. Fractal Design Focus G Mystic Red ATX Mid Tower. This case already comes in red and comes with white fans. The white fans will likely look somewhat grey through the front of the case. This is one of the best budget cases in the price range, although this red variant will cost $10 more then the normal Focus G. Here is a hyper in depth review for you.. Some cons: This case could really use a third fan in back. Another con is that the case does not have tempered glass and instead uses plexiglass, If you don't care then that's fine. Finally, it is important to note that there nearly every other case people have listed is better then this one. That is not to say this is a bad case, fractal design make good products.



u/aMiracleAtJordanHare · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Not sure if it's just a Plastidip "clear coat" or if actually interacts with the layer below it, but it makes Plastidip glossy. It works pretty well if you don't go too light with it.

I was lucky enough to find some at a Home Depot locally, but there's a good chance you'll need to order it online. ( http://www.amazon.com/Performix-PLASTI-Intl-Enhancer-Glossifier/dp/B008VEJB3Y )

I'm finishing up an emblem "repaint" (Plastidip) and they're turning out pretty good. I'll post pics once reinstalled.

Edit - Check out the rest of the "Enhancers". They seem pretty cool. I only have experience with the glossifier, though.

u/ExcerptMusic · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Basically. Think of the paint and clear as pieces of clear paper. You just keep stacking it. You have your primer, paint, paint, then clear, then sparkles, then clear, clear, clear, clear.

The more clear, the more depth. Too much clear and it starts to get hazy, unless you wet sand really well between coats.

Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get this spray clear. Once you use the hardener, you have 48 hours to spray more coats which is plenty of time.

u/BenFett · 1 pointr/Nerf

Vinyl dye just comes in a spray can and you use it exactly the same as normal spray paint. It's for coloring like car seats and stuff like that permanently, but it works great for other plastics too. It's a much stronger form of primer than normal stuff.

Here, I've got a link to the clear coat: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPIMWQ?pc_redir=1410435739&robot_redir=1

You probably want flat clear coat, that tends to give blasters a plasticy-but still uniform appearance, which I like. I remember one of the auto zones near me had only gloss or semi-gloss for a while, so if that's all you can get, then it's better than nothing. Yep, you put it on over the finished product (make sure you wait a day or two for the paint to fully cure!! Otherwise it'll fade and look awful!) and it'll give it all a very uniform look, while protecting it greatly from damage.

u/punkonjunk · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

just as an FYI, that topcoat is garbo and won't last as long as you'd like. this stuff is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY

BUT very toxic, and you must wear a good mask with it, like this one at a minimum.

the customGCC community also dabbles in pro controllers and joycons and is an amazing learning resource if you are looking for more information on doing this, and doing custom buttons as well! I have learned SO MUCH about painting in just the last couple months I've been there.

u/Frankshungry · 2 pointsr/airbrush

A good clear coat that can be polished is key in my book. I use this stuff on metal signs all the time with acrylics. It's high quality clear coat for small car parts or touchups. Comes out great.

Spray it on generously, If it's at all cloudy or you get orange peal, you can wet sand and polish with a rubbing compound just like you would a car.

I prefer one thick, wet, heavy coat to a misting and second coat. Easiest way I've found to get it even without orange peal. Just be careful of drips with this method.

I haven't painted a helmet since my youth but I sure wish I knew to use auto clear then. I ruined many paint jobs using Krylon and Rustoleum clear coats. They were always foggy and prone to orange peal.

u/rsmjr · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Really matters what type of paint you are using. But I'd always wait exactly what it says on the can if not longer. Especially for sanding purposes. For clear coat I'd try to find 2 part clear coat that is activated. That is closer to professional pant then your run of the mill stuff which isn't exactly meant to be on a car and in harsh environments. I have had super good luck with finding good stuff on amazon. Example

It is only good for 48 hours. Though I'd plan the paint to be as fast and soon as possible.

u/tastycrumpet · 1 pointr/handtools

This helps immensely! Is this spray - http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1635-Ceramic-Semi-Gloss-Engine/dp/B000GKEXVQ

Can I ask what you typically do with the handles? I'll be able to use the originals on most of them (one tote was cracked and repaired, so I've bought a replacement). The issue with this is the replacement is still the original dark, and doesn't quite match the others. I'm sure they are all rosewood, just differing states of wear. Do you sand back and stain when you restore? If so, some advice for an original look would be great!

Thanks again for the reply.

u/aywwts4 · 1 pointr/Miata

A standard color match aerosol works fine, get gun device for aerosol bottles, will save your thumb and give you cleaner more controlled sprays.

Buy too much paint so you can spray from a nice distance, liberally, and sacrifice all your starts and stops well away from your panel.

The important distinction is with the clearcoat, Buy activated clearcoat, and have more than you think you will need on hand. This stuff has worked wonders https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B00W2D806Y (Also easy to find on ebay) avoid the cheap clear like the plague.

Worth it: https://www.amazon.com/3M-07193-Cartridge-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00079FOK0

u/onewheeldrive619 · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Yeah it's Autozone automotive color in a can and Eastwood 2K epoxy two part clear in a can. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY To be honest, I didn't do enough prep on my first effort and you could see some imperfections in the tank so I stripped it and started over. With the right amount of primer/filler and careful sanding, I'm amazed how good the finished product looks. A little bike tank and covers is easy. I can't believe people paint whole cars with rattle cans!

u/agayvoronski · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

u/moelost · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

u/ngostout · 2 pointsr/DIY

This stuff is pretty good at making damn near anything glossy.

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

It's also really tough and holds up nicely in weather of all sorts and sun; I use it on my motorcycle builds. Best of all it drys fast. But be warned, it is toxic, so use a mask and do it in a WELL ventilated area. Also make sure you keep the helmet spotless clean before you apply it because it will seal everything in permanently.

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays


>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.
>

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.


>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.
>

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.
>

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/lkmartin · 3 pointsr/customGCC

Hey! The best thing to do is to apply some form of protectant. This Glossy Clear coat spray is pretty well-used in the community, just be careful to spray in a well ventilated area/ use a respirator, since this stuff is pretty dangerous if inhaled.

u/RazorLeafAttack · 8 pointsr/Gameboy

In the custom GameCube controller community the use of a high end clear coat called USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss is strongly recommended. It’s designed for automotive use and worth noting—it’s very toxic and the can needs to be used within 48 hours before it cures in the can. The second most recommended option is Rustoleum 2x clear gloss which has worked well for me, is much cheaper, it isn’t a specialty product, and doesn’t need to be used within a 2 day window.

u/PmMePicsOfCereal · 1 pointr/Miata

Details on the paint:

I bought pre-mixed aerosol cans of basecoat from Automotive Touchup, paint code M8.

Clear coat is USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat purchased through Amazon.

I ended up using 4 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. My technique still needs some work, I ended up spraying too thin and taking more coats than I should have. This lead to some fish eyes which came out pretty well after wet-sanding and polishing. The basecoat color match seems close and I would recommend it, but know that their west coast shipping speed is pretty slow. It took around 2 weeks total from ordering to delivery.

u/BoredMechanic · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If it’s just this one spot, send a clear coat down the entire panel and then re-spray using 2k Clear spray cans. Make sure you don’t sand too deep. If you sand past the paint then you will have to spray paint as well.

Use this good 2K clear coat, not some cheap shit from Walmart

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d1OGDb0H7JTCS

u/Grasshoppeh · 2 pointsr/Archery

Kinda want to do this with my White Gold Black Wiawis Nano Max. How did you go about protecting the rest of the riser? Would you be apposed to pointing me to the can of red you used, mind pointing me to the product you used? (was it this?)

I love your riser, I wish I could upvote it multiple times :)

u/FYWGI67 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I did a rattle can on my motorcycle. Here's an album of the whole process. Rattle Can Paint Job I think it turned out pretty well. The end step should be using a 2 part clear coat that is resistant to fuel, they have some that comes in a spray can too. it worked well for me.

I used this page as a resource

Edit: this is the clear coat I used

u/Ugybug1900 · 1 pointr/Rainbow6

Spray paint. Doesnt matter much on primer and color but hands down the best clear coat is this.

u/corgismorgii · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Gasoline drips will ruin ur clear coat if u use Rustoleum clear.

​

You need 2K Clear Coat (Epoxy 2 part clear coat). Its gasoline resistant basically. 1 Can did my SV650 gas tank to perfect gloss.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

proper paint spray mask recommended

u/__SpicyTime__ · 1 pointr/functionalprint

Yeah I guess they'll get worn down over time but the way I'm making the hinge will allow me to replace them pretty easily. They're called Plasti Dip I think

u/maaseyracer · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is the clear I use. It is awesome spray can, 2 part mix. Gasoline resistant:

http://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

The results are incredible especially with a cut an polish. Great for smaller jobs and those who do not have a spray gun. Pro tip: buy a good mask this stuff is awful.

u/MatteBlack12 · 2 pointsr/customcontrollers

Looks great! If you want to take it a step further, I recommend using an automotive clear coat like this one. I made my first controller a few days ago, and it made a big difference. Here’s how it came out. (Note that fumes are toxic, hold your breath or use a respirator.)

u/PM_ME_YOUR_EX_PLS · 3 pointsr/Repsneakers

no but ive done it myself

you need this

and this

and gold spray paint

acetone off the shit paint on the heel cup and stripes. mask off the heel cup and stripes with painter's tape so none of the rest of the shoe is exposed.

spray on adhesion promoter per instructions. let dry.

spray gold. let dry.

paint on the scratch resistant sealer and you've got a long-lasting and good looking custom.

u/skeptoid79 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I gave up on using tire shine stuff, recently switched to using actual tire paint. It's a pretty big pain in the ass to apply, with all the taping/masking required, but it's held up nicely and looks great. Key is to do several (3-5) light coats on each tire. 2 cans might be required.

u/Capwonder · 1 pointr/E30

Hey I used a Japanese brand yellow lens paint. Stands up to heat and weather perfectly. Also goes on really clear but has a richer color than most other yellowed lens that I have seen. http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Headlights-Lights-Corner-Bumper/dp/B005Y38S3E is where you can find it but I will say its a little pricey for a tiny can.

u/sqWADooSh · 4 pointsr/4x4

Allow me to give you some advice. I too have a Badland bumper but really this is advice for any steel bumper that comes raw. Apply POR-15 as a base and then POR-15 top coat per their exact instructions. A normal rattle can job is not going to hold up to the elements. I am having to strip the rattle can job I did because it didn't hold up and has caused numerous rust spots. You can find both products here:

This kit will give you everything you need to apply the base of POR-15

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45009-Gloss-Black-Starter/dp/B00J594B5C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640042&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15

This is the top coat. It also comes in a gloss variety if you prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45918-Chassis-Black-Coat/dp/B00MBFOHEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640098&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15+top+coat

This combination can not be beat for its tough as nails finish and rust prevention all in one. Enjoy your bumper!

u/RazsterOxzine · 5 pointsr/Autos

You can but a enamel clear coat to protect it - Before spraying the cover, try and test a small piece before applying the enamel. fyi
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1636-Ceramic-Clear-Engine/dp/B000GKEXW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319598525&sr=8-1
Can be bought at any local Auto store.

u/SuperAngryGuy · 3 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Painting the bucket black should not affect the white inside reflectivity. I recommend a black spray paint that also functions as a primer to help prevent paint chipping. This is what I use.

Lining the inside of the bucket with Mylar of or the shiny side of heavy duty aluminum foil can help with inner bucket reflectivity. Use strips of Mylar/foil and rubber glue so it's not a pain in the butt to put it in.

u/Zombie650 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0043B7UQY?pc_redir=1407179716&robot_redir=1

This is a catalyzed 2k urethane clear not much different from what you would spray out of a gun. I've used their primer (which worked excellent) but not the clear as of yet ( I use cheap harbor freight hvlp guns). You mix the clear and reducer by pressing a button on the can before you use it (one time use). Pretty space age for rattle can, and will be infinitely more durable than non-catalyzed clears.

u/stinkycretingurl · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

every single time i overfill my tank or get drops of fuel on mine i say a little thank you prayer to spraymax 2k. i CANNOT imagine what my bike would look like without that clear coat. i have had gas just pour down the side of the tank before. spraymax 2k is the shit.

u/CaptainJamesMaySlow · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Clear coat provides protection over the headlight after sanding/polishing. I used this after restoring my headlights, came out real nice. https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax®-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Video applying a clear coat to headlights: https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM?t=449

u/kangaroojoe512 · 3 pointsr/Blink182

Dupli-Color ECWRC8650 Custom Wrap Neon Dynamic Pink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ338WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_oErGDbA0EW0PC

This looks like a good one.

u/Flnn · 1 pointr/civic

That blue is nice and bright. You can plastidip paint your wheels, and you can use that for your handles & emblems as well. These are the handles I have, the carbon is matte-ish and the black is glossy. And here's the chrome trim. I have the matte on mine. As far as covering the chrome on the grill, some people have replaced that part with the black variant and some people plastidip spray it.

u/DirtyYogurt · 6 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

Dipped rims are easy, cheap, and look great. I dipped mine about 8 months ago with this kit (had a can left over) and there's been 0 wear/peeling/damage on them in that time. They even hold up going through the car wash. Only complaint is the matte finish is a bitch to keep clean.

I don't know why you would go with duct tape. Yeah it's cheaper, but... $30 is still pretty cheap :/

u/Porkpants81 · 3 pointsr/3DS

One of the best things for painting rubber would be "Plasti-Dip":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176DDPK/ref=twister_B00KYFX2HE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The thing is that it might not work well on something like a carrying case since it is fairly thick.

If the rubber on the case is soft and flexible it will be very hard to paint it and not have cracks show up on the paint as it bends from opening and closing.

u/RCuering · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

My husband used this. Go slow and watch for air bubbles. It goes on better and avoids drips if you take the tire off before spraying. Also make sure your rims are clean and dry.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP183-Satin-Black-Wheel/dp/B000CPAV9I

u/HyJenx · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

Pretty much anything that you can buy at a big box store will fail fairly quickly.

Your best bet for a clear finish would probably be an automotive clear coat. These are 2-part catalyzed finishes that hold up very well, but are a little pricey.

Here is one option.

I have not used this particular brand, but it seems to get high reviews.

If you want color on your bike, look for local powder coaters. It can be done for a couple hundred dollars, and will last forever.

u/Cluadius9 · 1 pointr/JeepWrangler

You can buy it in bulk for a pretty good deal on amazon

u/chocolatemeowcats · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

A 2K urethane is best. You can get gallon kits from most paint stores that carry industrial paints or order quarts, and 2k rattle cans from amazon.

​

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/brianpi · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm not so sure it's the primer. I used this stuff (Krylon), which was actually recommended on Reaper's site somewhere. All the bones minis that I primed about 8 weeks ago but didn't paint are dry and non-sticky.

My guess is that either the acrylic I'm using or Dullcote is reacting to one or all three items, but any suggestions are welcome!

u/AM_Industiries · 1 pointr/golf

Maybe try some clear spray. VHT has a good formula that should work:

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP184-Clear-Wheel-Paint/dp/B000CPIMWQ

u/tmluna01 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

You can mask off certain areas if you like. Also, try 2k spray as a top coat for maximum durability.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/Your_Brain_On_Pizza · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is what I used on my repaint. Holding up great so far!

u/kousun12 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I also spray painted my r6, and used this for the gas tank. It's full 2k clear in a can with hardener that activates when you push the button on the bottom, so you can spill all the gasoline you want on the tank and it'll still be okay! :D

u/young_speccy · 1 pointr/airsoft

gun

accessories

Go make your dad proud!!

u/srupinski · 1 pointr/Jeep

yeah I've got water inside them before I'm holding off for now since my tires are on their way out. but theres not much mud around here in new jersey mostly just sand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAV9I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01 is where i got the paint, glossy black 2 cans for 5 rims and a couple coats. and 2 cans of clear coat ended up using about 1 1/2 cans.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPIMWQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

u/pandito_flexo · 1 pointr/Lexus

Did you use a separate clearcoat to seal? This is what I ended up using and it's fantastic.

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I suspect that this would be superior to the one that chrisfix suggests. I have seen this used to protect restored/candied/tinted taillights.

http://www.amazon.com/Spraymax%C2%AE-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

u/brownies_n_barbells · 8 pointsr/gundeals

It's pretty basic really, but I described it below with lots of words. I typically either use Dupli-Color or VHT paints, because they have worked well in the past, I buy whichever matches my color needs.

Standard paint "system" is Primer, Paint and Clear Coat


I start with sanding the part lightly, usually 220 grit sand paper, followed by steel wool (to get all the corners), then cleaning, first soap and water, then greased lightning, then acetone. I wear nitrile gloves while doing the cleaning to avoid putting skin oils on the part. Then I let it dry (usually for an hour, to be sure).

For AR's I typically hook a clothes hanger or other wire through the takedown pin hole to make it easier to hold up and spray it. Personally, I do 5-10 lighter coats to avoid drips (because sanding an AR upper sucks) every 2-3 minutes then I usually wait 2-3 hours (usually watch a movie or go workout) and paint the color. Typically for the color I also do 5-10 light coats every 2-3 minutes instead of following the directions on the can. My rule of thumb is 3-4 coats past the point where no primer is visible. I then let this dry overnight for easier handling.

For baking, I suspend it in the oven while the oven is cool, heat the oven to 400F, hold 400F for 1 hour, then turn the oven off and let it cool with the door closed. I typically suspend AR parts by the takedown holes so it is in the center of the oven and not touching anything. I've done up to 4 parts at a time (2 upper, 2 lower) with no issues.

Take it out once cooled, and then I usually very light buff the surface (800+ grit) and spray on the clear coat. Usually I again do 5-10 coats quickly (again, avoiding drips). No good rule of thumb on the clearcoat other than "does it look completely covered?"

Then I repeat the baking process exactly the same way (400F for 1 hour, plus cooldown time) and I'm done.

u/alpoverland · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This guy's right. Scratches will come one faster than you can imagine too. Nice work still, and congrats on the patience.

If you do consider clearing there's this 2k clear in a can, legit stuff. Though you'll need at least three coats and it adds up. If you've got a buddy with a compressor and a spray gun you can put on a lot more coats for less money when buying a tin.

u/DDar · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

May I ask what lacquer thinner you used? Was it the normal model stuff like the Mr. Color stuff, or did you use something harder? Also, what hardener did you use on this?? I have no experience with that particular chemical!

Also, is there a particular reason you mixed it yourself instead of using a spray can like this one?

u/linkandluke · 1 pointr/boardgames

Thanks so much! Sounds like 1 bottle will work but then again waiting 2 days for another isn't the end of the world.

Are you talking about this type of spray?

u/MSD0 · 1 pointr/pcmods

You can get 2k clear coat in an aerosol can if you don’t have a spray gun. You have to use the contents within 48 hours after it’s been activated, so it’s best to do everything at once. It’s a good idea to wear a respirator (not a dust mask) when spraying.

u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I've used this to good effect.

u/nakedrickjames · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

Usually that's because once you clean them up, you've polished / sanded off the UV protectant that's on the exterior. You can simply re-spray a decent quality clearcoat on the outside and they should last quite a while.

u/Bengbab · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You can't use standard rattle can clear coat. I did first time and had same issue. I then learned about 2k clearcoats (2 part epoxy coat in a rattle can). It's def gas proof.
https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax%C2%AE-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Here's my bike before/after:
https://m.reddit.com/r/250r/comments/4vhpz3/decided_i_wasnt_a_fan_of_the_blue_spent_the/

u/deusnefum · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Filling, sanding, priming (and repeating that process a few times), and then painting and then putting a catalyzed clear coat would make this look like the real deal.

u/stillrusting · 2 pointsr/carmodification

This stuff is slick. Use a respirator.

Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uiSZCbB4ZE7Y5

u/ScepKo23 · 1 pointr/customcontrollers

You can buy waterslide paper on amazon. There are two options, clear and white. As for clear coat, it is recommended to use a two part urethane clear. I personally use this for clear coating but be warned it is harmful if you breath in the spray so wear protective masks and spray outside if you can.

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523970255&sr=8-1&keywords=spraymax+2k+clear+coat

u/freckled_porcelain · 25 pointsr/DIY

They have it at Home Depot/Lowes for sure. Or you could just get a 4 pack on Amazon.

u/superpopcone · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I have clear coat damage on a car that I would like to slow/stop (right now, I'm unable to commit time/effort to a proper sand down + repaint + re-coat).

From watching DIY clear coat repair videos, is it correct for me to assume that I can just go ahead and apply this 2K clear coat aerosol directly over the damaged area to prevent it from getting worse?

As I understand it, future repairs would just require removal of the clear coat anyway. Please let me know if any of the above assumptions are wrong.

u/rbrandonc · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

No, but I used this one. It's a two part epoxy spray, so it's gas proof as well

u/CalZeta · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

2k two-part clear coat seems to be what you're looking for. It's not cheap, but will withstand exposure to gasoline from what I've read.

u/Regs2 · 1 pointr/mazda3

This product is recommended as a coating on r\detailing.

u/red_delicious · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I haven't tried it yet, but from what I can tell, USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol is "gasproof"

u/pet_the_puppy · 1 pointr/Miata

Nope, painted black. Mirrors were finished with SprayMax 2K. Door handles were sprayed black after this photoshoot, actually.

u/repens · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/

u/SoullessSin · 1 pointr/Gunpla

A bit pricey online but cheaper local. They will bell get paint to stick on rubber and polycaps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IUBMS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9nidBbB7YRY4T

u/poblopuablo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I was told to use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPIMWQ?ref_=pe_623860_70668520_dpLink

Plus an etching primer. (But I don't think it would be wise, since etching primer sound alike to will destroy the mirror Finish)

u/hd200 · 0 pointsr/scooters

Yes it does. http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY It's a two part system that you puncture a bladder and shake like hell.

u/rvlvrlvr · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You could probably get a set of these from ebay in white (or whatever color you want) and stick the small ones on the front of your levers. Maybe scuff up the finish of the levers first, apply the decals, and then spray on a clear-coat (having taped off everything else, of course) to get it to stay on there without being rubbed off.

I've used this aerosol-spray clearcoat to great effect when I stripped and re-finished the frame of my Trek 5200 (before, after). Problem with this product, however, is that it is a two-part aerosol and thus has a usable time of about 48 hours from the time that you puncture the inner chamber to start mixing it. So it's kind of a waste if all you're clear-coating is just the levers...