Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

I swapped the factory JBL radio/cassette/CD changer for this Sony double DIN unit which is less than $250. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV1000/Sony-XAV-AX1000.html?skipvs=T

This is a basic CarPlay unit with no CD drive, no standalone navigation (but you get navigation in Carplay mode), it has Sirius XM support but not built in (has a socket on the back to plug-in the extra Sirius doodad).

Works fine for me. I think any double-DIN Carplay radio would work fine though.

I like this one because it has USB, volume knob and aux on the front and it's good value.

You can pay more and get fancier ones from various makers with features like DVD/CD drive, standalone navigation, wireless Carplay, HD radio.

I used 2 Axxess boxes recommended by the Crutchfield website to connect to the JBL factory amp and the steering wheel controls. I'm not sure retaining factory amp was worthwhile, and you may not have one. It would have worked fine with radio's built-in amp I think. Keeping the steering wheel volume buttons is nice. There is also an adaptor box that does both JBL interface and wheel controls from another maker.

I got a Metra dash kit which slots it in the dash perfectly.

I installed the radio's supplied Sony microphone instead of the Toyota one for Bluetooth calls.

I added a Pioneer backup camera :

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130NDBC8/Pioneer-ND-BC8.html

The 2005 has a factory spot for a camera (because that was a Japanese option in 2005), so I put it there.

Initially I bought the head unit from Best Buy which meant they did free installation, but their installation was so bad that I do not recommend it. After one trip back to fix things they broke I realized that every time they fixed something they broke something else, so I finished the job myself.

Things Best Buy screwed up:

They installed the Sony mic nicely at windscreen top left, ran the cable to the radio, but forgot to plug it into the back of the radio. Doh! I had to take the whole dashboard apart to fix this.

They instlalled backup camera fixed to nothing, just hanging by cable pointing in roughly the right direction (I dremeled a groove for the camera cable in the original Toyota mounting plate which they had removed, glued plate back into place, attached camera to it properly).

They didn't reconnect the dashboard dimmer switch so dash lights could not be dimmed. I took the lower left dash apart and plugged it in.

They cracked two dash vent pieces. They paid for and replaced one but I later noticed they'd cracked the other and replaced it myself. This all required used parts from EBay.

They lost half the special flanged nuts that hold the hatchback handle piece on, which I noticed when it started to fall off (I got more from Toyota dealer for like $2 a nut. That's a lot for a few nuts but cheap for a repair.).

They lost various other dashboard nuts and bolts that I haven't replaced yet but dashboard is currently holding together.

​

So in short, hire a competent radio installer or do it yourself carefully. Free installation isn't free, it turns out.

If you do any work yourself you will need a car trim removal kit like this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It has various tools to take dash panels off without damaging them. I found YouTube videos to help me take the dash apart and properly remount the camera.

​

It was a pain but the end result works great. The Sony's Bluetooth is much better than the factory BT for phone calls. Now there's music streaming over Bluetooth too. Radio works fine. Backup camera is great, comes up on radio screen when you engage reverse. In Carplay mode (with iPhone plugged into USB) it does great navigation via choice of map apps, Podcast app works fine, Siri will read text messages to me, great music support.

I know that's how you feel, but what would you do if you didn't feel that way?

I'd be interested in helping you, if you're interested in pursuing this (I even have a potential business idea on how I'd use this data). Certain luxury manufacturers also let you use the ODB interface to manage advanced settings that are otherwise unavailable.

I searched GitHub for "ODBLink" (a popular scanner tool) to see what scripts/programs users have wrote, and found a Python program with a reference to a useful spreadsheet for how we could get started:

# Thanks to Brian Batista for the use of the CANBUS guide spreadsheet.

So, I searched Google for "canbus spreadsheet", and found this Google Spreadsheet: CANBUS Fleunze SE (top non-ad search result)

Similarly, for Ford Mustang cars, I did some digging and found Ford has opensourced their OpenXC tool:

>OPENXC
>
>While UDS is a closed protocol, researchers at Ford have been working on creating an open platform for interfacing with vehicles. The result is the OpenXC Platform. OpenXC provides a protocol to read data from Ford vehicles over CAN.
>
>To use it, you’ll need a vehicle interface. A chipKIT can be used with Ford’s open source firmware. Alternatively, you can buy a prebuilt solution from CrossChasm. Once the vehicle interface is up and running, you can access data from the Android and Python APIs. We’ve featured a few OpenXC hacks on Hackaday in the past.
>
>It’s great to see an automotive manufacturer embracing open source, and hopefully Ford continues to work on the platform. That being said, the OpenXC protocol is read only, and limited to a fairly small set of messages.

The conventional wisdom on ClubLexus.com is "If you're working on a Lexus or Toyota, nothing can beat Toyota Techstream." However, Carista comes close. Carista focuses on hidden features ("dealer-only settings") like daytime running lights. They provide similar "dealer-only settings" for other makes and models.

I personally use an expensive ODB-II reader, because:

• Scotty Kilmer's YouTube video "This Scan Tool Till Destroy Your Car" claims cheap scan tools can cause electrical problems in your car
  
  • For those interested in a cheap scan tool, he has a video, "The Best Cheap Scan Tool You Can Buy", which recommends the ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD II Vehicle Code Reader Automotive OBD2 Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Scan Tool (however, you can't use this tool for your project)
    
    I personally use BlueDriver ODB-II reader, instead of Carista, because:
    
    
• I can always convince a dealer to help me out, if I really needed to.
  
• It is the only OBDII adapter officially licensed with Android and Apple, so you know it will work with any smartphone you own.
  
• Bluetooth support
  
  • Easy to plug-in, pairs fast, and you don't need to bend over and hunch while reading codes because your serial port cable isn't long enough.
    
• Unlimited free vehicle specific Repair Reports, generated from our database of millions of fixes verified by ASE Certified Mechanics
  
  • You're essentially getting Lemur Vehicle Monitors database for free. Lemur owns the Identifix database professional mechanic shops use.
    
• Ability to log and export live data to a file (this is called ODB-II Mode 2)
  
• Vehicle specifications, maintenance schedules, recalls, Technical Service Bulletins, etc.
  
• ODB-II Mode 6: Test results for continuously and noncontinuously monitored systems, supported.
  
  • If you've ever watched
    
• BlueDriver Support is the best online ODB-II support/documentation, for free, anywhere
  
  • See, for example, these Q&A and How To articles:
    
    • What is Feul System B?
      
    • How to Test Compression
      
• Enhanced diagnostics (especially useful if buying a car at salvage/auction)
  
  >What are ENHANCED diagnostics?
  >
  >All vehicles with an OBD2 port are required to output basic information when the Check Engine Light comes on. However, a lot of important information (such as ABS, Airbag, Climate Control, etc.) is left behind by other scan tools and code readers. [...] BlueDriver gives you the complete set of diagnostics on a wide range of manufacturers.
  
  However, the downside to BlueDriver is:
  
  

1. Earlier versions of BlueDriver didn't require a PIN for the Software to authenticate with the Hardware component, so anybody could intercept your Bluetooth traffic and execute a man-in-the-middle attack and potentially kill you. (Read: Really, really don't buy an old, used version of BlueDriver Sensor). Note: This problem only exists in Bluetooth-based ODB-II Sensors.
   
   >Bluetooth pairing is incredibly simple — sometimes too simple for its own good. Without a four-digit PIN to offer a bare minimum of protection, anyone within a 30-foot range could connect to BlueDriver dongle. If the dongle is not currently connected to a phone, the process will be trivial, and even if the dongle is connected, it's sometimes possible to prioritize a new connection over an existing one.
   
   
2. BlueDriver Sensor (Hardware) only works with the BlueDriver App (Software). I haven't tried snooping on their bluetooth data stream, but I suspect there is an authentication token the Software sends to the Hardware to allow bidirectional communication over bluetooth.
   
3. If you're looking for an ODB-II reader to bring to salvage/auction, you might prefer one with a dongle, as it doesn't require a pairing step and will begin reading codes immediately.
   
   In terms of "fun projects", I was thinking it'd be cool to use ODB-II Mode 6 and visualize, in real-time, Scotty Kilmer's "How to Get Your Car to Pass the Emissions Test (Life Hack)".

More videos

How To Build a Gaming PC in 2019! Part 2 - THE BUILD

How To Build a Gaming PC in 2019! Part 3 - System Setup

Grounding

While some people suggest a grounding wristband to dissipate static, I think they are a waste for PC building. Just plug in your power supply and touch it each time you come to the workplace. Make sure the power supply switch is set to off.

A power strip with off switch can be used, if your power supply does not have a physical power switch on the back. The power switch cuts power, but leaves the power supply connected to the building's grounding wires.

Tools and trays

You do not need any specific tools to build a PC. If you want to make it easy on yourself, get a magnetic screwdriver with a magnetic pickup tool. The long and thin pickup tool will help you retrieve screws that wander into cracks.

GreatNeck SD7C 8-in-1 Screwdriver with Magnetic Telescoping Pick-Up Tool

Dropping screws is inevitable, so avoid working over carpet. If you do drop a screw on carpet, sweep the pickup tool over the area slowly. The tip magnet will grab it off the surface. This is a life saver with irreplaceable screws.

You could get a magnetic tray to reduce the chance of drops. You could also use an ice-cube tray to organize your screws. Wash it well before using it for ice, as screws are oily.

Titan Tools 11061 Mini Magnetic Parts Tray or Rubbermaid Easy Release Ice Cube Tray

Parts List Optimization

I moved to luxury air cooling and a white case/memory setup. Every fan has RGB or an RGB halo. The case front color is RGB.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $489.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua - NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler | $99.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte - Z390 M GAMING Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $138.22 @ Amazon
Memory | *Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $224.99 @ Corsair
Storage | Samsung - 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $286.27 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - FireCuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $95.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB AMP Extreme Video Card | $1359.10 @ Amazon
Case | *Inwin - 301C White MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $82.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | *SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $106.05 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.25 CFM 120mm Fan | $26.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - LL120 RGB LED 43.25 CFM 120mm Fan | $26.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer - XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor | $599.99
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $139.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech - G502 HERO Wired Optical Mouse | $64.95 @ Amazon
Other | CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with | $49.99 @ Amazon
Other | CORSAIR Lighting Node PRO CL-9011109-WW, RGB Lighting Controller with | $49.99 @ Amazon
Other | Phanteks PH-FF120DRGBA_BK01 120mm Halos Lux Digital RGB Fan Frames | $19.03 @ Amazon
Other | Phanteks PH-FF120DRGBA_BK01 120mm Halos Lux Digital RGB Fan Frames | $19.03 @ Amazon
| Total | $3999.45
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |


Edit

##Case and Fans

This case should be put on a hard surface as the bottom is a large easy-to-wash filtered intake. It is the only intake, as the back and the front fans should be set to exhaust air. If it must be put on carpet, use a thick board under it to push down the carpet locally.

>The In Win 301 is a mini tower case with a tempered glass side panel [...] Dollar for dollar it could be the best affordable case on the market right now. That's a pretty bold statement, and you'll just have to read the whole review to see if I'm right.

Page: In Win 301 Tempered Glass Mini Tower Case Review at Pcper.com

The Noctua A12x25 fan costs 50% more money then other fans because it moves 50% more air at the same noise levels. The new high-tech plastic blades have tight tip clearance, the fan bearings are quiet, and they have a circuit smooth the PWM signals to the motor. Two of these fans come on the NH-U12A. The exhaust fan from the cooler should be moved to be the exhaust fan at the case back.

Sound Test Video: Noctua's NF-A12x25 - Magic on Radiators!

Testimonial Video: Noctua NF A12x25 Fan Review

Review Page: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Fan Review Conclusions

The Phanteks Digital Halos have 30 RGB LEDs around the edge. They connect to Corsair's Lighting Node Pro as 3 RGB strips each. The Lighting Node Pros comes with 8 RGB LED strips, and connect to the two LL120 fans.

This gives you control over a big crunchy wad of addressable RGB. It is a valid substitute for water cooling bling. It will never leak out rainbow and short circuit your PC

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

• Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.
  
  > A little portable air compressor
  
  can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
  
  >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
  
  I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
  
  >Spare fluids.
  
  Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
  
  
  > Tire pressure gauge.
  
  To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
  
  > Jumper cables.
  
  Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
  
  > A tow strap
  
  is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
  
  
  > Tire chains.
  
  Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
  
  > A shaker siphon
  
  Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

Yup anytime. Fixing your own stuff is really rewarding. Its nice to look at how much money you saved doing a repair yourself to justify investing the money on tools and your own experience. You may break parts along the way, break tools, bash knuckles, and get frustrated but it's all part of learning and appreciating machinery. I am a firm believer that you will do a far better job and have far more vested interest in your machine than any mechanic you are paying. Check out this book if you need a good read, nice discussion on the value of working on your own things.

The option to admit defeat and take it to a shop is always there. Just remember that none of these things are magic, bikes are pretty simple machines when compared to what else is out there. Don't be afraid to set it down and come back to it later.

OH! One of these is also super useful.

If you have some free time, and don't mind the occasional swear word, this guy AvE makes some awesome videos...takes aparts things and explains what's going on, tests tools, cool fixes, general machine shop tom foolery. Worth a watch.

I have the stock dp for now, and a BSR 2.5in stainless. Car sounds almost stock at idle and under throttle it sounds a little more grunty. Pretty nice.

DICs tend to crack, and the cores in them suffer afterwards. I mean, it's a piece of composite plastic that is sitting on the head of your turbocharged engine... it will get up past 80c on hot days so you gotta expect some damage. It's a great piece of technology as it allows knock control and other engine adjustments RIGHT at the plugs, but it's poorly designed considering where it sits and how it sits there. It's the number 1 thing that can leave you stranded while driving. I've been lucky and have only had one go bad in over 60k of T7 driving (two different t7 cars) but it's a total gamble. Sometimes they will drop within 10k, sometimes within 100k. I've been very lucky considering I only got a CEL from an extra knock sensor. Highly recommend and OBDII reader. Just to pull the code. If you have an android phone ge the torque app and a bluetooth adapter. You can monitor engine health with it and check/clear CELs. http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376322147&sr=1-1&keywords=obd2+bluetooth

I drive a 00 9-5 LPT that I have converted to be an aero. Turbo, up-pipe, exhaust, brakes, clutch, and a few other mods. Flashed a 00 Aero bin and then the e85 map.

There are a few benefits of the tune. First and foremost being the diagnostics. if you push both the -/+ at the same time on the SID you can access diagnostics. This is activated in T7 Suite and is included in my e85 package. Look here for an example of what kinda data can be displayed: http://www.saab-tuners.com/en/trionic-7/t7-suite-sid-info

Things of note:

• amul = fueling information,
  
• tair = intake temps (Important for tuning and IC info),
  
• meng = engine torque in nM,
  
• teng = engine temp,
  
• mair and mreq = mair is air actually delivered, and mreq is the requested air. This is SUPER important to find boost leaks.
  
• miss = engine misfires and there's another value for knocks
  
  Other benefits are the ability to run e85 if you want to. We dont' have any around here, but traveling you may run across one. The increase is hp and torque is an absolute benefit. I find my idle and temps are lower with this tune. Also it evens out the power delivery vastly. Very nice torque curve. You can see the graph here: http://imgur.com/a/L26oR Top image is stage 1, stock is below. I also find that my throttle response and low end power (Where I usually drive the car) is far better. I'm not a racer, so I tend to stay 2-4k and there's a decent amount of torque there to move me around town.
  
  Reasons for tuning are my own, but the diagnostics and power increase were the main ones. Having a fun DD helps too.

I do a lot of shadetree mechanic stuff, and my toolkit is relatively small and 99% from harbor freight. Invaluable tools for me:

• Dewalt impact wrench. ($100) Fuck the drill, get the driver and these ($5). This makes zipping things together and apart super easy. Not necessary, but holy shit is it my most used tool. I'm lazy and this saves a ton of time.
  
• 3/8" plastic harbor freight socket wrench. ($10) This is a ton better than any steel wrench I've ever had. Great mechanism, ergonomic, light, non-corrosive.
  
• Bit set ($23) comboed with the impact driver and one of these ($2), and you're set for any screw/socket situation you could possibly have. I use this so much that I should probably have 2...
  
• Breaker bar ($20) for anything that the socket wrench can't handle on its own. Direct competitor to Snap-on for $20
  
• Socket set ($30). I don't think I've ever used anything outside of these besides some small jobs where either a special deep socket or thin walled socket was required. Make sure you get an adapter set ($5) so all your tools can work with any sized sockets. While you're at it, get some extensions ($15) and universal joints ($7). These are invaluable when you need them and very useful otherwise. Usefulness factor makes them a necessity in my book
  
• I love my channel locks ($7). I don't carry box end wrenches. I've never been like, "fuck, I NEED a box end wrench." I think that anybody who needs them is a damn liar. These channel locks are every crescent wrench combined into one tool. They also serve as pliers, wire strippers, etc. etc. I might upgrade to vice grips one day, but these are still my go-to pliers.
  
• Similar to channel locks, some adjustable wrenches ($9) are musts for the same reason channel locks are necessary.
  
• Multimeter for electronics. This thing does it all. I want to say it even does continuity which isn't too common.
  
• non-harbor freight torque wrench ($57). This one is a direct competitor to snap-on as well. There's a 1/2" drive one that goes up to 150 ft-lbs which can get you by 95% of jobs for ($38) if savings if the penultimate goal. I'd splurge if I were you though on the 250 ft-lb wrench.
  
• THE BEST TOOL EVER ($5) Whether you dropped something into the engine bay, need to grab a socket way over 'there', or whatever, this tool is so useful.
  
• Jackstands ($50 for 4) - and any jack. I have a nice racing jack, but it's definitely not necessary. Scissor jacks can access tight areas, but bottle jacks are more reliable. I don't care what jack you use, use jackstands BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF in the stupidest way possible. Boaters use lifejackets, construction guys use hardhats, mechanics use jackstands. These are your personal protective equipment and they are designed to save your life. Make sure it's rated for your vehicle and carry 2 if you can, but carry at least 1 if you have any inclination to get under your vehicle for any reason. The average person might not need one day-to-day, but the average person shall not go under their car without one. Rant over.
  
• OBD 2 engine communication device ($17). I can read and clear engine codes using my phone. I can check O2 sensor voltages, I can check battery voltage, boost pressure, vacuum pressure, my 1/4 mile time, etc. etc. etc. This tool is extremely useful. I consider it necessary given its pricepoint and utility.
  
  ​
  
  I don't believe I've missed anything. These are my automotive essentials and are valued at $360 new. Skip the convenient impact driver and you're at $260. I want to make it clear that you can do 99% of any vehicle work using these tools and these tools only. Whether you're changing your tires or dropping the transmission, these will get you 99% of the way there. Most of these have been side-by-side compared with professional grade tools and are very competitive performance-wise. Cost wise, it's no contest. These tools win.
  
  ​
  
  Jackstands

I just use my retired Galaxy Note 2 with a lightweight lollipop ROM (liquid smooth) and this


~ mount Only $10 and free one day shipping if you are a prime member. It won’t open any wider than a note 2 but it holds securely to both the phone and the dashboard even in this 0 degree weather outside right now. Wish I could leave my phone out in the cold too. I hate North Idaho.


~ Dashcam - I use Dailyroads Voyager It uses cyclic recording so it can keep overwriting and not using up too much space. It can run in the background while I use waze, music, OK Google, etc. You can also set it to save the video when it senses x amount of G forces. Or you can tap the screen at any time to save the video… It has tons of features and the shocking part is it’s free! Since work provides me with unlimited data tethering on my phone I also utilize it’s cloud backup feature.


~ OBD II - For car diagnostics reading I use BAFX OBD2 I was literally shocked at how easy this was to plug in and pair to my phone! For close to $25 I had tons of information about how my car is “feeling” right in front of me. I’ve only tested a few but I stuck with Dash Some of the things it tells me are engine temperature, engine load, speed, MPG, coolant temperature, RPM, air/fuel ratio… anyway, my favorite part of the app is how it keeps track of my trips.. locations, statistics, where I last parked. Love it.


Things I’m still working on are getting an inverter in my trunk to power a small/cheap router and raspberry pi plus small ssd so that in the case of theft my dashcam app could save to the ssd in my trunk to catch the filthy thief. Looks like there is enough room behind the plastic cover where they keep the tire changing tools to keep this equipment hidden from sight. If anyone has better ideas please let me know. Maybe someday I will impress a nice guy ………

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

Minatures can be a whole different beast, but its rewarding to pull it off on an FDM. I would lower your layer height to one or two nozzle volumes (if you have a .04 do .04 or 0.08) and slow everything real far down. I have a Wanhao v2.1, but it should be about the same premise. they take a while but turn out great. support helps too.

Feeler gauge -- just a more accurate way to check the bed height, and you will have a physical number you can report if you are having issues. Just make sure to adjust the bed until you feel slight resistance, kinda like what you do with paper. I think your printer can accept a auto bed leveler (control board should allow it) you may want to look into it. Looks like you have a metal bed, so inductive might work best for you. It will really help out.

Hey all, I got a bunch of info from here and the forums, so I thought I would give back and drop a few links.

First is the roof rack. I think the rola roof rack is the best looking and ends up being one of the cheapest.

Next up is the cargo box. I thought getting one this long would look stupid, but it's way better than I imagined. The rocketbox 11 is one of Thule's cheapest and big enough to fit my huge board in. No noticable drop in mpg, either - hovering barely above 33.

The backup camera is a fantastic upgrade. I followed this post and dug into the forums posted there. I would double check the apim codes because it's a tad dangerous and I didn't use the same exact codes as u/brbauer2 (I have the 2016 w/ sync 3). Shoutout, by the way, the album was super helpful. Also, the pins we inserted to the wiring harness didn't connect with the head unit, so I shredded a small amount of foil to bridge those connections.

Canying Car Trunk Handle Rear...

BAFX Products Bluetooth...

And finally, I like having my windows down in the rain, so I got them smoker vents.

Maybe someday I'll get that accessport/intercooler and a rear motor mount, but I'm loving it as it is!

You all bought awesome cars, thanks for the help, catch you later.

Clean looking model :) congratulations! Love that you have sunroof / moonroof (different countries - different names - same stuff).

Waiting for the interior pictures.

Here are few link where you can find info and parts in case if you will need; searching by VIN number, only the last 7 characters, CE7....

bmwfans.info and realoem.com for parts number

bimmer.work for equipment details, with which the car came from factory

Others; using apps

Torque pro or Torque lite - free version to use together with an OBD-II bluetooth scanner for quick diagnostics, are not expensive and can give you some quick info.

Another good app which I tried, a little bit more expensive, is Carly for BMW they have a free lite version as well Carly for BMW Lite only that you will need to have a smartphone which knows USB-OTG and a cable from them (from carly for bmw) adapter search which can be 30€ carly for bmw website

I tried them both, torque and carly, and I would say that they are good enough, can give you informations, faults (errors code) and you can search by error code number to have an idea what can be the issue; as well can clear faults.

Carly for bmw knows coding as a plus, you can configure your car to do other few things, such as automatically locking the doors when going over a certain speed, follow me home lights on time for a certain time, keeping pressed locking button from the key fob to fold the mirrors (+ windows to go up), keeping pressed unlocking button from the key fob for the mirrors to go down; plus other few stuff (can't remember). For a car from the years 2000s is having few nice features.

Take a look at youtube video 5 Series - E39 - Video Handbook (40mins video) and you can learn about them.

You will have to prepare for the future, in case if they will fail, about kit repairs.

In US you have German auto solutions with DIY instructions, tools, kits; very useful stuff.

Since recently I had issues with this hose 11531705223 Radiator Hose which I had it replaced and just blew (snapped) after 1 year when I was going up the mountain, they are know for failing and can leave you stranded; give it an eye inspection.

What else can I continue recommending you... uhm...

Take care of it and again, congratulations :)

Cheers

I'm not familiar with wireless scanners but I would be curious if the added cost is worth the convenience. This one http://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone%C2%AE-Android/dp/B00652G4TS is around $100 and looks like it has a lot of features that you might not necessarily need/want if you're just looking for something that will read codes. Poking around on Amazon some more might find you a better price tool with less features.

If you don't mind the plug-in tools I would highly recommend http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=16NHDV5KSVQW086RGHD0 - I bought one to troubleshoot a recurring CEL and was pretty happy with the price/ease of use. The Autel tool only reads and clears codes; you'll have to google the actual code to figure out what it is. Good luck!

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

Everyone has their own opinions on paint detailing. I don't mind spending a little time up front if the results are long-lasting. My approach has worked well on multiple cars in our family stable, both single stage (93 Mariner Blue Miata) and clear coat (95 Merlot Mica Miata) among others. I arrived at this list through research on /r/autodetailing and elsewhere in conjunction with my own trial and error.

I use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight. It is very effective and safer, in that it makes it more difficult for a non-professional to take off too much paint. Watch for sales or use a coupon and the cost isn't bad. Their polishing pads do not last so don't buy them. Plus the disc cuts into the foam--bad design. I bought a 5" disc instead and a set of pads separately. I read that 5" was better than 6" and so far, so good. Get a bunch of microfiber cloths also.

+1 for clay bar before you begin with polishing. Get a kit with detail spray and do that first. You'll be surprised how much stuff is actually on your paint that you can't see. Leaving that there can put grit into your polish work.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to start, using stiffer pad. Follow their directions.

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish next using a medium pad. This step might seem unnecessary but you'll see a difference before/after. This one wipes off before drying--see instructions. When done you should have a mirror-like finish.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the last step. I LOVE this stuff. A little goes a long way. It comes off so easily, unlike some other sealants (like Klasse--OMG, it's a workout) yet it lasts. You can put it on with the DA polisher, softest pad, or by hand.

Note that I use the DA only for putting stuff ON, never for removing. This video is a bit annoying but shows a good method for removing/buffing.

Some people like to do an additional stage with wax. I haven't done that but maybe I'll try it someday. Seems like the benefit would be minimal compared to the work required.

Finally, a good car wash that won't strip your product. Never use dish detergent. If you do that, you shouldn't have to use the first compound again. Polish and sealant next year or end of season should keep you looking good.

Very last thing: take and post a photo of your work!

link 1 - the notches are overkill, it's the straight edge you want because you're aligning the frets not the fretboard. Amazon has an 18" steel ruler that should work fine https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Stainless-Steel-Office-Inches/dp/B000093IJ1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315326&sr=8-1&keywords=18%27+ruler

link 2 That's overkill as well, you'll end up using just one or two of the files. I don't like the fret guards because it's more efficient to tape all the frets at one time than it is to tape up the guard 22 times. If you want to round the fret ends this file is similar to one I've used and will work fine. Just make sure the edge of the file doesn't saw the fretboard https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Triangular-Ergonomic-American-Pattern/dp/B001R1UZII/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315923&sr=8-12&keywords=triangular+file

link 3 - That's fine, there's another one $1 cheaper. They're basically all stamped out in China, and do the same as the $25 Stew Mac one. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483316161&sr=1-3&keywords=String+Action+Gauge

Your choices are fine, but I'm a cheap dude. And while you're in the ordering mood, you might get a set of automotive feeler gauges. This is what you can use with the ruler to set the amount of relief the neck should have. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=pd_sim_267_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA62DPTD81NDZKM36V6C

More on neck relief from Fender's web site: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/how-to-measure-neck-relief/

If you wanna learn how to work on your own guitars, Frets.com is a great resource, here's their link on neck relief and buzz diagnosis http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/Relief/relief.html

Good luck!

• Learn how to change a tire. Do it in your driveway or in a parking lot on your own. It is a lot better to know how to do it right when you need to. And it is much easier to learn how on a warm sunny day than on the side of the road in the rain, or the middle of the night.
  
  
• Keep a tire pressure gauge on you. If your tires appear low, check the pressure. Tip: Sheetz gas stations (at least the ones in Virginia) have free air (most gas stations do). Their systems have a digital pressure setting and an auto-cutoff. Just set the pressure, and it will stop filling when it gets there. Otherwise use your pressure gauge to dial it in. Most cars will feature the tire pressure for front and rear tires on a sticker in the front door frame.
  
  
• Water will work as coolant in the summer. If it is colder outside, you will want to buy antifreeze. Most gas stations will sell it.
  
  
• If a warning light on your dash comes on (check engine, oil light, alternator light, etc) you will need to get it checked/fixed soon. Check engine lights can sometimes be nothing (sometimes it is just a loose gas cap), but it is always good to get it checked. More on that in a minute. If a warning light on your dash starts flashing, that is a serious problem. Pull over, turn the car off, and call a service station
  
  
• You can save yourself some money by getting an OBD2 Reader. These read your check engine codes and tell you why your check engine light is on. Some shops will do this for you for free, some will charge $20. Most corporate owned auto stores will let you borrow theirs in exchange for your drivers license. Personally, I say just drop the $20 and get one, it saves time later on. They sell ones that are much more expensive, up to thousands of dollars. You don't need these; these give "live" data of the car's sensors and other things that won't help anyone other than a mechanic. A small $20 one will read the code and probably clear it if you want.
  
  Simple run down on how to use them (should be in the instruction book). 1. Plug it into the car, with the car turned off. (The plug will almost always be under the dash) 2. Turn the key to the ON position. (Do not start the car, just one click before it. Like if you wanted to turn the radio on but not start the engine) 3. The code reader will usually say READING for a few seconds and give you one or more codes. They will look something like P0430. Cheap readers usually have books with them that will tell you what they mean. More expensive ones ($100-$200) will define the code. If you don't have the book, just google the code.
  
  Depending on the code, you may or may not understand what it means. This is okay. If you google the definition of the code, you will almost always find someone describing the general idea of what is going on. Again, you might not be able to use this info to repair the car yourself, but it can give you an idea of how serious a problem is, and may prevent you from being ripped off by mechanics.
  
  
• Anticipate maintenance and repairs. Tires are expensive. Thankfully, they don't need to be replaced all that often, but changing 4 tires at once can easily be $300 bucks for cheap new tires. Avoid used tires. Keep $100 saved up to get the oil changed. Newer oils need to be changed less often, but the shop should advise you when to come back. (I'm assuming you aren't planning on changing your own oil any time soon) Nothing is worse than knowing your oil is dirty and overdue for a change but not having the money to make it happen, and old dirty oil will shorten the life of your engine.
  
  
• Every 6-8 months, when you get gas, go into the gas station and buy fuel system cleaner. It will look similar to this. Simply pour the entire bottle into your gas tank and then fill up your tank to the top. Also, and this is very important! DO NOT PUT THIS IN A DIESEL VEHICLE
  
  
• Finally, find a good mechanic/service station. Ask locals around your town. Check reviews. The difference between a good one and a bad one can be hundreds, if not thousands. Before I learned about cars, I went to several mechanics for my first car.
  
  One never updated me on their progress, charged super high prices, and recommended unnecessary repairs. Then I went to one that would come out and talk to me 2 or 3 times throughout the repair (giving me updates, letting me know of other problems he noticed, etc), he would never perform an additional repair without taking me into the shop and showing me exactly what he was talking about. At one point, he ordered brake parts from down the street because I thought I needed new parts. Turned out it was a whole different issue with different parts. He happily sent them back, free of charge to me, and walked me through what he was going to do. I still take my cars to him when they have "gremlins" that I can't figure out. Usually they charge a pretty big service fee per hour, but from the very first time he charges me 1 hour less than whatever it takes him. His reason is always "I wanted to figure it out as bad as you did. Forget the money, this thing became my puzzle."
  
  But I've been rambling on that. Point is, find a good mechanic and stick with them. It will make a huge difference.

Oooh oooh, I know this one!

So Matraxia is pretty much right, whatever is cheap, but I'll give you some more info you should know.

Pretty much all of the OBDII scanners out there, at least for consumer use, are based on the ELM327 IC. The ELM defines a serial, text-based protocol as an input, so you (or an app like Torque) give it a series of commands just like it were a modem, and then it handles communicating with your vehicle via several different protocols, all pretty much transparently. That's why one program like Torque can talk to pretty much every vehicle, via the ELM chip's magic.

The thing about that is, the firmware for the ELM chip got leaked a long time ago and there have been unlicensed Chinese copies made ever since. The real ELM has had upgrades since then, and the Chinese version has sort of kept up, but in the knockoffs some things work right and some things don't. They're frequently slower, buggier, or don't support certain commands, compared to the real ELM chips.

So how do you tell which you're getting? Mostly the price. The knockoffs are cheap, like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Real-slim-ELM327-Bluetooth-V2-1-OBD2-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-interface-Scanner-Tool-/112145219935?hash=item1a1c60415f:g:YXwAAOSwzaJX44nq

No way that's a real one. Not for 4 bucks. That said, I have no idea what the cutoff is where you might consider it legit.

Personally, I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491605126&sr=8-3&keywords=obdII

I have sent it a number of commands over the serial terminal to verify that it's a real ELM327 chip and it has passed all of my tests. That said, it could still just be a good knockoff with a lot of the ELM's newer commands implemented. I really don't know for sure.

Either way, works great.

As for gathering data and exporting to excel.. that has nothing to do with the OBDII adapter you get and everything to do with the software you run on your phone. I have no idea of Torque or others support this but it seems like they should.

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

My friend has this one and it seems to work well enough actually. I'm going to order one for myself right now. I have a magnetic phone mount that goes in my CD slot that works really well due to the layout in my car. I might use a spare phone to run as extra gauges and a music player. You could get a BlueDriver but those are about $100 though I hear they are really awesome. Though honestly for just $10 it can't hurt to at least try it out.

Edit: For $20 this one looks to be a bit nicer. I'm ordering one for myself right now. Thanks for reminding me. These are really handy tools and just plain fun to play around with.

It's the 4-cylinder. The original parts were Denso, but I'm pretty confident that I got the correct Dorman parts. It's a '99 Camry LE L4. EGR Valve, Modulator, VSV. None of the vacuum hose in the VSV/EGR/Modulator system is clogged. I actually checked the 5 or 6 hoses while I was replacing everything. I also sprayed some Gumout Carb Cleaner into into the intake when I took the EGR off. Cleaned the EGR pipe too.

This is the scanner I'm using. I'm also using the Torque app on my phone. As you can see, it offers some nice monitoring. I glanced at that Vacuum Boost graph while I was driving and I think I remember it sitting at around 15 when I was idling and dropping to 3 or 4 once I got going. I didn't check out the O2 graphs though. I'll log some graphs tomorrow and do some real testing.

Thanks so much for your awesome response. Troubleshooting this has been so frustrating and you've given me something to do.

I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.

Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.

Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).

Get a service manual and go through all the general maintenance aspects of your motorcycle and learn everything about it real well. Lubricate all the cables, drive train, change all the fluids and filters, inspect and clean the battery and the battery cables and basically learn everything you can on this bike. Make sure it has good tires.

Here’s a chart which along with a multimeter will help you troubleshoot or test your battery and charging circuit. Cleaning the battery cables on both ends clears up a lot of problems.

https://m.imgur.com/a/KVGGY

I’d like to see pictures of your bike, see if you can post them here and especially if you see a problem show us a picture because that really helps a lot.

Run a full can of seafoam through a full tank of gas to help clean up the system and all the passageways inside the carburetor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

If you haven’t got one, get a battery tender like this one.

Battery Tender Plus 021-0128, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger is a Smart Charger, it will Fully Charge and Maintain a Battery at Proper Storage Voltage without the Damaging Effects Caused by Trickle Chargers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3wB7AbK953D28


Many screws on metric bikes aren’t actually Philips, they are special, here’s a set that will keep you from buggering up your screw heads, especially useful on older bikes where they are real tight.

Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kBB7AbGCN238A


Have fun and let us know how things work out!

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

Location: NC, USA

Device: Nexus 6P 64GB (White)

Approved: 9/27

Ordered: 9/27

Ships: 9/28

Shipped: 10/3

ETA: 9/29-10/2

New ETA: 10/5

Replacement: Pixel XL (128 GB, Very Silver)

Process: Google Support

Warranty: Out of warranty, within Nexus Protect (have replaced phone once over a year ago under NP)

Status: Shipped! (10/3)

Battery drain for me. I was going to replace it under under NP (would've been second replacement), but found this thread first. They first said "well your phone is out of warranty but fortunately is still covered by Nexus Protect" but I told them the phone had to only barely be out of warranty and I wasn't go to pay the $70 for a known problem other people were getting free replacements for (I didn't mention the Pixel). They were very nice and gave me the "one-time exception" for a 128GB Silver Pixel XL which the representative said was the only color left and 'looked very nice'. Obviously pleased with how it turned out - credit to Google for really going above and beyond to make this right in the end, even though there's a lot of headache in-between for many.

Only worry is that they'll be upset with the scratches my screen has (small, made by sand) or say something like "there's nothing wrong with your phone" if maybe the 4th factory reset before I send it in fixes it. That remains to be seen.

Note: To anyone with a bend in the casing around buttons, just buy something like this and press it back in. If you are really worried it'll scuff (didn't for me) just use a paper towel barrier. These are also super handy to just have anyways. I had a bend near the lock button and another one near the volume button. Obviously I wouldn't bother if it is going back to Google though.

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

Take a look at this for the L2 charging: http://www.instructables.com/id/313CONVERTING-A-2013-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO/

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to http://roev.org/ the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.

Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.

I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.

1. Get a kit like this. They're sold all over- Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Make sure you get the kit that includes a tube of rubber cement. The kits all have a reaming tool, a plug tool, and a number of plugs. The plugs are usually sealed in plastic and look like strips of rubber.
   
2. Jack the car up and remove the leaking tire. In a pinch you can install a plug while the tire is still on the car, but the tire still needs to be up in the air. Note that you should NEVER crawl under a car that is only supported with a jack, so only do this if you can reach the puncture without getting underneath the car.
   
3. Using pliers or whatever, remove the screw that is stuck in the tire.
   
4. Use the reaming tool from the kit to rough up the hole left by the screw. Just do a couple of push/pull strokes with the tool to round out the puncture. This ensures the plug will seal correctly.
   
5. Take one of the plug strips and thread it into the plug tool, like you're threading a needle. Make sure there is equal amount of plug on either side.
   
6. Coat the plug with some rubber cement.
   
7. This is the only tricky part. You want to push the end of the plug tool into the puncture until only about 1/4" of plug material is sticking out, then quickly remove the plug tool. The plug will remain in the hole, and your puncture is fixed. Just go slow, and don't push the plug all the way in or you'll lose it inside the tire.
   
   It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.
   
   Hope this helps.
   

Awesome, good luck with it and feel free to PM me if you have any questions. If you buy from Crutchfield then I believe they'll send you a PDF with instructions on removing door panels, head unit, etc. I have one for the OB which should be the same as your Legacy and would be happy to email it or Dropbox it to you if you're not going with Crutchfield.

Definitely have some trim removal tools before you get started. You can get them for a few dollars on Amazon or Harbor Freight. Makes removing panels easier without scratching or creasing them like you might with a screwdriver.

I bought a car from the auto auction in the late 90's (CAAG in Surrey). Back then it was a risk v reward thing as you're never sure exactly what you're getting. You can browse the cars beforehand, start them up but they are packed in so tight you can't really drive them.

Plenty of deals to be had but its largely influenced by how popular it is that day. Best times is low season (Oct-Feb), and if it's raining. Mid week was better deals than weekends.

To judge prices, ignore blue book; Check Craigslist. Craiglist is the market.

Buy an ODB2 sensor to check diagnostics. (Depending on how old the car is, it may not work). Before every auction the auctioneer will call out any declarations and it will be on a big board (out of province, salvage, not legal etc)

The atmosphere is hectic and crazy and confusing and exciting, but once you've got a couple of times and see how it goes its not bad at all. If you want to bid on a car, have a price in mind and put your hand up if the price is right. An auction worker will come over to you and call the bids out for you so you're not confused by all the hand signals and yelling. If there is a reserve price on the car and you don't meet it, you can negotiate on the spot with the seller (standing near the auctioneer) if they are willing to take less than the reserve.

Try not to feel intimidated or bullied. Get a price in your mind and work with that.

Last note: You're going to have to settle price and insurance quickly, but they do have a broker on site to do transfers/reg/taxes

Hopefully this helps. My experience is close to 20 years old, but I spent a TON of time at the auction place and got a real good feel for how it worked at that time.

Just realized how vague my reply was.

Weather mats - I was able to get "free" Honda ones from the dealer with my vehicle purchase. They're nice and fit well. I've heard great things about weather tech too. And don't forget one for the trunk too. Mine earned it's keep the first time a milk jug leaked. Super easy cleanup compared to carpet cleaning.

Interior leds - I used these plus this trim removal kit. Trim kit is a nice to have, you probably have something around the house to improvise with. For the actual install hit up you tube for "tenth gen Civic interior lights". It's a very easy job.

Also this was my first time having a car with a nice key fob so I got some of these to keep it from getting beat up. With auto lock, unlock, and push button start, it only leaves my pocket when I'm home anyway.

Sure :)

This is Chrisfix YT channel

This guy is great... he seems to know EXACTLY how much to say. He never leaves out anything I need to see or be told, but at the same time, he doesn't waste time telling me unnecessary stuff. I think this balance is REALLY hard for most uploaders to manage, but he does it masterfully. It's truly unfortunate he doesn't have a video for every single topic. "Oh cool, there's a ChrisFix video for this," is a great feeling. I instantly know it will be smooth-sailing.


This is ErictheCarGuy YT channel

At first I found this guy to be a little intimidating or advanced for my level of knowledge. Occasionally I need outside reference to understand some things in his videos. However, even though I originally tended to click out of his videos when I stumbled into them... he eventually became my other favorite channel. I quickly became fed up with videos that wasted my time by being redundant/slow/irrelevant/incorrect.

And THIS is the best $20 you'll ever spend

With that you can use your phone and an app to check why the check engine light is on... and way more. If you happen to drive a Ford or Nissan then "Car Gauge Pro" is the app you want... $9 and it does way more than the more popular apps like Torque Pro.

The CX-7 turbo has a smaller compressor wheel as well as a smaller compressor wheel housing. This gives you a better low-end torque curve as well as faster spool-up and throttle response. This sort of turbo brings the torque needed for a small SUV with a turbo. The Speed3/6 K04 has a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, which leads to higher top-end boost translating to more top-end power while sacrificing low end torque and response.

Typically, all the aftermarket turbos are listed as fitting the Speed3/6, CX-7 becuase they are all bolt-in replacements. The problem is if you get a CX-7 turbo, it'll still fit, but your power band WILL change, just like you're describing.

For a short-term problem solver, I might suggest getting a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and looking at your boost levels. No, it's not the best solution for logging, but it'll do what you need it to. I know my speed3 hits max boost between 3500-3750 RPM; being ~15psi in gears 3 & 4. Why don't you try a 3rd gear pull and see where the motor hits max boost, what that max boost number is, and what RPM it's hit at? This is honestly the only thing I can think of with respect to diagnosing on the cheap, without an AP or pulling the turbo. You may also want to ask the mechanic again for the OEM serial number of the replacement they put in, and compare it to the CX7 vs. Speed3/6 turbos.

The stock MS3/MS6 K04 is typically serialized as K0422-881/882.
The stock CX-7 K04 is serialized as K0422-582.

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

I'm not /u/gingican but I can provide the comparison:

1. Generic one that looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4SVS2M -- mine was from Harbor Freight (they don't have it anymore) and was orange but otherwise identical. Fine for pulling standard codes and resetting Check Engine Light.
   
   
2. Scangauge II -- mainly used as a gauge but good for pulling/resetting basic codes and getting freeze frame data. Obviously, can provide a bunch of data (as intended for daily gauge use). With a lot of work (programming XGauge codes) it could get a little more data too.
   
   
3. BAFX bluetooth OBD2 tool http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS is nice. It's just hardware, it works great, but what's really nice is Torque. Torque can store/export sensor data, integrate with GPS data, display all manner of gauges and graphs, etc. My only complaint is I can't access ABS codes (specifically on my GM). Also, bluetooth itself is nice, the device is easily plugged in and no fooling with wires, and I can interface with the phone that I already carry anyway.

It can be really useful for any lights that come on. If you see yourself fiddling with your own cars in the future and have a bit of disposable income you could get a nice high quality one like this which will do everything you need, or you could get something as simple as this one to take care of most of your needs. Autel is a good brand, I also have a bluetooth one that connects to any app on your phone (or computer) which can also be convenient, and depending on the app can be useful giving you real-time data.

Note that for this issue specifically, you'd need the former one I linked as the airbag system (SRS) and ABS system run on a specialiszed part of the system and can't be read by normal code readers. So if you just figure you won't do much you could get the $15 reader for quick troubleshooting and take it to Autozone like you're doing for when big things come up.

I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.

Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.

The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.

In MPG? Not sure honestly, my gas gauge is inconsistent and I haven't driven it long distance in a few weeks. Though if you believe the gauge, 45 miles (40 highway) cost about a quarter tank, about 8.5 gallons. So that'd be roughly 5MPG but like I said, I don't know how much I trust it given how I only had a quarter tank to start with.

I was going to order this to have a look, would you recommend it, or a different one?

Sort of glad to hear that my goof probably isn't what caused it, and if it's just that emissions thing I won't bother for now since it got inspected in November last year, still plenty of time. But as soon as I'm done typing this I'll hit up AutoZone and see if they'll read my code. Where would I go about finding out what the code means?

Edit: P0137, O2 Sensor. I don't need an inspection sticker until September, so I'm no longer worried. I'll fix it when I get the chance. Thanks for the help!

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5539G61R49EZH0220MRH

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

I replaced mine last week on my 2011 Speed and it was a learning experience. And yes the new part cured the false alarm issue. Here's a video on how to remove the door panel but not the actuator. Thanks to Ally at Everything DIY:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9wlWCF3LrA


I didn't read the service manual beforehand but I wish that I had. If you have questions feel free to ask.

Edit: Take lots of pics as you disassemble the inner door panel. Ally's video does a great job documenting the outer door panel.

Edit 2: A set of door panel removal tools are nice to have in your tool arsenal. I bought a set at Harbor Freight but these are very similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=szsGV&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0&pd_rd_r=6d79417f-a761-11e9-ba93-c31e6dacbe46&pd_rd_wg=8imSE&pd_rd_i=B01L8GHB7O&psc=1&refRID=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0


A hook and pick set is a must have as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-621-Piece-Hook-Carde/dp/B000CMDQ4S/ref=sr_1_25?crid=26BXJMU79EZG9&keywords=hook+and+pick+set&qid=1563237505&s=automotive&sprefix=hook+and+%2Cautomotive%2C191&sr=1-25

Got a smart phone?

Reader 1

Reader 2

I don't know how shipping works to Canada, but it isn't too expensive of a product, and I am sure you can find it locally. It is a very handy tool.

That sounds like pretty good fuel econ lol. With my tune my 335i gets around 14-18 MPG

If your interested:

This app($10): https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand

Plus this($20): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7TR-ybWNQ3SA6

Mount the S3 to your car, create a tasker profile to launch the app when it receives power (or connects to your stereo, etc.) And you get a wireless obd display =D I have this set up in my truck and I love it =)

Btw thanks for the reminder that this sub exists lol

This seems to be the best one out there for $25

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41qPjS0dkUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C76_&refRID=0RT24HHDK5X4SK9BK152

Everyone is talking about how awesome and essential it is. Mine should be arriving tomorrow too which is awesome. Good luck!

My son's first car, bought this year, is an '06 9-3 2.0T as well!

These cars like to throw codes/check engine lights (CELs). Do yourself a favor and order one of these and buy "Torque Pro" from the Google Play/Apple app store. You'll have less than $30 in it all together, and it gives you some nice tools besides just the ability to read and reset codes.

As someone else said, google for any issues you have, they have likely been answered. Might as well make an account on saabcentral and saabnet. Lots of good info and knowledgeable people on those sites.

When (not if) you have to replace the coils, make sure you buy the right ones. ONLY the ones with the correct markings will work correctly. There are LOTS on the market that say they are correct, but aren't. Here's one that I know works (my son's car has 4 new ones). If you sign up for Advance's "SpeedPerks" membership (free), you'll get discounts, money back, etc. Order this stuff online, even if you're picking it up in store. Their website sometimes even has $40 off $100! Usually at least 20-30% off.

Anyways, I hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.

A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.

That sounds exactly like what is/has happened to mine. I just changed the VCG and spark plugs. It seems to help after a few hundred miles of test driving it, no more codes...well now the only code I have is camshaft timing sensor I need to replace. For codes too...do yourself a favor spend $20 on this OBD II Reader. There is a free app and you don't have to go down to borrow an OBD II from the auto parts store, it's super slick, tells you fuel trims, throttle position, a bunch of other things in real time, and allows you to clear fault codes. It's not my daily driver...just sits in the third stall of my garage and I whisper sweet things to it, hoping the rust around the wheel well will disappear one day...thanks Minnesnowta.

Pro-tip... In this day and age, you can obtain a scanner of your own for relatively cheap. It won't be as comprehensive as some of the more expensive OBD-II scanners you'll see at these places, but it will give you the codes and allow you to clear the check engine light once you fix it.

They connect to your smartphone via bluetooth(or wifi if you have an Iphone and certain models).

like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Compatible-Android-Diagnostic/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540992161&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=obd-ii+bluetooth+oo

You have to get an associated app on your phone to connect to the scanner, but there are a lot of free ones out there that work. Otherwise, they are $5-10 and even allow you to do real-time monitoring of data such as RPM's, various pressures, boost level if you have a turbo... etc.

https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS

I bought one of these for an ABS code, was a great investment. Cheaper than a diagnostic and turns out the fix on my 08' charger was just tightening a bolt for the steering angle sensor.

It's $100.00, but well supported, still updated, and the support that you call is a real person every time (sorry I sound like a shill, but I had to call them because my sensor froze, turns out it wasn't plugged in all the way).

Requires a mobile phone, but can definitely give freeze frame / live o2 sensor data.

There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel

Alright I'll rephrase myself, Most modern cars should not have plastic being sucked into the engine block. That is pretty much the only way plastic is going to get onto that sensor that was installed correctly since it's placed right at the exit of the header, or in the header if the engineers felt the need to use more than one upstream sensor (depends on engine). If that is the case than there most definitely is either a hole in the tubing after the filter (What I said previously), there's a hole in your exhaust (But since exhaust has positive pressure I find it unlikely that plastic would get into any holes) Or your intake filter is installed incorrectly/not installed.

Since you know a lot about cars I'll assume you have an obd2 sensor, but if not you can pick one up on amazon for around 10-20$

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2DFGXQ2SW85R9&keywords=obd2+scanner+bluetooth&qid=1566004814&s=automotive&sprefix=obd2+sca%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-3

An OBD2 will be able to tell you if your mass airflow sensor is malfunctioning because it will be getting readings from that sensor, You should definitely check that before replacing the ECU.

Also on most Duramax engine (I only have experience with the Focus and the Fiesta ST but this is true with most vehicles) the upstream O2 sensor is both easy to get to and easy to test, you won't need to jack up your car, just pop the hood.

This guy is perfect for your setup. Gets you the 100w for your speakers and a respectable 350w for your sub.

Make sure you set your gains correctly. I'd leave some headroom on the speakers (target 90w) to avoid clipping.

This amp has fuses on it but you still need to fuse the power wire. Don't skimp on wiring!

This is a simple, clean, respectable little setup. I like it.

Oh yeah one last thing! I'd highly, highly suggest putting these on the shopping list if you don't have anything.

That's what I assumed unfortunately.

I got a $20 scanner on Amazon, and it can check inspection monitors. It's a simple tool, but it will go through the list of monitors (evap, cat, etc.) and tell me if it is ready or not.

I guess I will just have to hope for the best if I don't see any CELs. Thanks for the answer!

Get an OASIS report (w/ VIN) from the local Ford dealer to let you know what she has been through (at least while under warranty)

\> there was an exhaust smell when stopped at lights

I have no exhaust or muffler on my 6.0 and don't smell any exhaust when stopped, so that is curious.

I would recommend buying an OBDII scanner from Amazon ($20) if you don't have one (regardless if you follow through with this truck or not it is great to have for all of your other vehicles). They make them with Bluetooth so you can download an app (Torque Pro) for your phone and check/clear codes as well as live data monitoring. It's what a lot of us Ford guys do until we get a tuner that monitors data.

Here is a video that shows what I'm talking about.

That way you can go on another test drive while monitoring the PIDs. Let the truck warm up (180+ F for both oil and coolant) and then hop on the freeway and set the cruise control at 55 mph. Keep it there (on flat ground) for about 15 minutes and monitor the difference between those two temperatures. If they get above 15 degrees apart the truck has a failed oil cooler.

Check the degas bottle and oil for any obvious signs of head gasket issues. Make sure the coolant in that degas bottle is clean (free from particulate) and not milky - likewise with the oil.

Injectors are the other finicky devil with these trucks. When you click the truck onto the on position, keep the door open and listen to the injectors clatter as the spool valves open and close. This is most telling on a bone-cold engine that hasn't been started that day. Those things should clatter fast and evenly. If they start slowly clattering and ramp up their speed as they clatter that could indicate sludge/stiction gauming up the spool valves which leads to contribution issues. Another app called Car Gauge Pro allows you to do a "buzz test" to check for bad injectors by individually buzzing each injector to let you listen. Here is an awesome video that shows how to do that.

I wish I would have known those tips before I bought my baby. Good on you for being far less impulsive than me. With 20 minutes of SUPER easy tests, you can give yourself a really good idea of what kind of shape the truck is in.

Head gasket, oil cooler, and injectors are the big three to keep on your radar with 6.0s. If those are all working properly and the 282k miles doesn't scare you I'd go for it - that's just my 2 cents though.

You better post a picture of that baby if you end up pulling the trigger.

This may be a bad idea, but off the top of my head, maybe you could use a small inverter plus a battery tender to recreate a setup similar to your old one.

Edit: Also these are not cheap but there is a company called All In Charge that makes setups for charging your boat or RV battery while you tow.

Edit2: If these guys are still in business, they offer a solution that some people really like. Their website really needs some work though, I would bet its best to just email them.

Edit 3: Found one more solution for you from PowerStream.

First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.

• Layers, go get some type of wool underlayer, it stays warm when wet and also cools you off when sweaty. Seriously, get wool.
  
  
  
• Water, you need more water. Here is why. That time of year you have a chance of low humidity which means you need more water. I know you are not going to die if you don't drink enough water for one day, but you can get mood swings, joint aches, lack of mental acuity, all which can be dangerous on a bike.
  Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.
  
  
• For the bike you need a few things. Tire repair, fuel and storage. For tire repair , you need a way to plug it,and a way to inflate it. I carry this and a couple of c02 cartridges to get me out of a tight spot. This guy does a great video.
  
  Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders
  
  
  So I would do two things from here until November.
  Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
  You can get cheap bags at revzilla
  
  Best of luck and post some pictures!

That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel

When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.

I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

Verify your stator is healthy before you throw a new battery on your bike.

Do you keep the bike on a battery tender when you aren't riding it? You definitely should.

As for batteries, any AGM battery will do fine. The very best batteries are the Lithium Ion models from Shorai, but they are VERY expensive (about $150-$250), but they deliver massive cold crank amps which is exactly what you need, especially if you are trying to start a 1200 conversion with the 883 starter/gearing.

1. Verify your stator is putting out the correct volts across the entire RPM range. Your service manual will have the correct voltage values for various points in the RPM spectrum.
   
   
2. Start using a battery tender.
   
   
3. If you decide to buy a new battery, any AGM battery will be fine, but you really should consider saving up for a Shorai Lithium Ion battery, as it will meet your needs and then some. Here is a direct link to the Shorai battery for your bike: http://shoraipower.com/products?action=vehicle&type=175&make=941&model=7529&year=7529 It is $250, which I know is a lot to spend on a battery. It also puts out THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY cold crank amps which is enough to start a big block V8.
   
   
4. Also verify the resistance of your plug wires and the health of the plug boots and the connections between the boots and the coil and the boots and the spark plugs. I doubt a hotter ignition module will do much good for you, but its possible that your current plug wires are not as good as they used to be and if the resistance is higher due to internal corrosion...that can suck away juice that should be getting to your plugs.
   
   
5. Verify your carb is healthy and in good working order. When was it last cleaned?
   
   
6. Inspect and gap your plugs, or just straight up replace them if its been more than a few years.
   
   

You can go to autozone or wherever they check for you then look up online as code is generic. Each brand has their own specific meaning for the code. Before my cobb I used a Bluetooth obd2 reader 20$ online then used torque app from Android store free version to check and clear codes. It also does some pretty cool stuff for the paid version. The obd2 reader is small which I liked. I had 1 like this. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

I'm going to be straight with you. Save 50-100$ and buy yourself a bluetooth scanner. I bought this an installed the app Torque Lite (free) it has saved me so much cash it's not funny. BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XAQIDb05W5KSJ

Plug it in, itll pull the codes from your car, you can look them up on forums and boom. Diagnosis for free. I hope this helps!

I've been taken too the cleaners too many times. Those people run a business and need to make money. Some do it honestly, some dont.

Cheers!

Everyone should have one these days. They're super cheap. This is the first one that came up on Amazon. Seems to be reviewed well. It's bluetooth and connects to your phone. There are a number of free apps that will serve your purposes. I use OBD Car Doctor.

Good luck!

I like the SouthWest They would make cute socks! It is $1.99 and you get 164 yards of it. Oh and I used to play online golf years ago.. My Player name was Happy Hooker (I didn't play well and my ball would always hook to the right). Voltage Meter $7.82 free S/H This would have came in handy when I got shocked by a bare wire 2 days ago lol!

Costco will also repair a flat tire that was purchased from Costco, but you gotta deal with the super long Costco tire wait.

I guess the real LPT is if you get a flat tire, call the place you bought the tire from and they'll probably fix it for free.

In the alternative, learn to use a tire repair kit, like this.

1. Get one of these
   
2. Connect it and fill it partially.
   
3. Turn the car on and let it warm up.
   
4. Watch and see if bubbles come through the funnel. It's important you maintain the level in the funnel. As air comes out of the system the fluid will drop. So always have enough fluid.
   
5. As you're doing this keep your heat blasting.
   
6. Rev car, maintain fluid level, than check to see if hot air is there yet. Repeat over and over.
   
7. Still no hot air? Go to your bleeder valve.
   
8. Crack your bleeder valve. Don't screw it all the way off. Just crack it. If you have air stuck there it will look like you're opening a soda. Like bubbles seeping out edges.
   
9. Watch it until you see fluid pushing out.
   
10. Go back to your car that is still on and running and check your heater.
    
11. No heat or some heat is normal. You should feel some heat.
    
12. Keep going back and forth between cracking the valve and checking your heat. Do this over and over and you should slowly see your heat come back. Also revving your engine pushes the fluid around faster so do that as well.
    
    Notes: while you're doing the funnel method, the fluid may start to boil and and quickly rise causing it to over flow. Always keep an eye on this. Immediately turn off your car and wait about 30 mins and continue.
    
    Also, your bleeder valve is just a plastic screw that can easily get stripped with all of the opening and closing. Make sure your screw driver is an exact fit. Also, it helps to support it from the bottom when pushing down to open or close it. Wear gloves.
    
    If you can, raise the front end of the car on ramps or something. It helps the air move.

I used Goo Gone because it's gentle and I didn't want to risk stripping the clear coat or anything. Soaked it real good, waited 30 seconds or so and used one of THESE with a flat tip as a scraper. There were some very fine scratches afterwards. I could only see them with a flashlight and they came out easily with maguiers scratchx 2.0.

Since yours is newer the adhesive will probably come off easier than mine did.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CEJkDb0V2Z9T5

I just want to mention, I do strongly recommend investing in a real one if you want an odb scanner. I keep this one with me because it's small, and cheap, and like i said, it's usually right, but not always completely correct. Is it worth $10-$11 dollars? Sure! Do I ALWAYS trust it? Not always.

>not sell to yourself but to sell to others

I hear ya, but I think I covered this angle in my OP.

> diagnostic reports, access to certified mechanics, and AAA assistance

I've got a lot more experience as a mechanic than as a cellular salesman, what you just said there is the sort of horseshit sales pitch that's as shallow as 'pay us extra, cuz money' that corporate is always trying to push. I don't blame you, and I feel a little bad for telling you this because disabusing you of the nonsense that they've fed you will make your job harder, but there's nearly 0 real utility to it that can't be done with the phone people are already paying for.. which is why carriers love to sell them, it's high margin value added frivolousness.

This is a better diagnostic tool than any connected hokum being sold by carriers and it's ~$10. With a free or ~$5 app, there's a lot of information and help at your fingertips that can be read or shared.

>You may not want a tablet with a data plan, but a single mom without WiFi may want to give her kids one, or a college kid who needs something to take notes or draw on the go, small time YouTuber, etc.

Like I said, I don't represent everyone, but a lot of that doesn't resemble what you find in many areas. YMMV, but it can be a tall order and I don't feel like OP is lying to us.

Speaking as a non professional, who was once in your position, I would do a couple of things:

Buy the Chilton or Haynes manual for your car. Some will buy the actual shop manual from the factory but it is more expensive.

Check to see if there is an on line owners forum for your specific make and model. I belong to at least 1 owners group for each of my cars. There is little you will face that someone there hasn't seen, fixed, and provided details with pictures. The older the car, the more likely someone has already figured it out.

This sub. You've already found it so that's a good start.

YouTube. Full of instructions and videos on how to fix and replace stuff. You'll find just about everything there. A lot of garages will put out some really professional looking video's in hopes you'll buy the parts from them. I learned how to replace the control arms, ball joints, and end links on my Ranger and Explorer, the struts on my Toyota Previa, and the motor mounts on my Focus, all through YouTube videos.

I also couldn't live without a good OBDII reader. I use the BlueDriver (but there are others like it). For every code it finds, it gives you access to a pre written report, by ASE certified mechanics, on the top reasons for and best potential fixes of, that code.

And most importantly, you need a shitty car to work on. Mine was an old Chrysler also.

All scanners are not the same, some are better than others.

This is probably the best BIFL "value buy" scanner that works with all cars with obdII interface.

And the Torque app works great with it too.

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

Bluetooth OBDII readers are ~$10 on Amazon!

Combine one with an app like torque- lite version that reads codes and does the basics is free, pro is like $5 and has bells and whistles.

This way, as opposed to simply reading the codes, you can get real-time data directly from your car's ecu.

Shits amazing for ~$20. What you save in repairs by catching issues before they turn into expensive problems is amazing.

Ross tech makes a great cable with software (Windows) included, but they go from $$$ to $$$$$. You can buy a cheap OBDII bluetooth interface like this one (works pretty well) and an app like Torque pro or Carista (expensive monthly subscription required for anything beyond actually OBD2 protocol codes), but it's not as full featured as Ross Tech's.

You can also look on something like AudiZine for someone near you, or take it to any Audi specialty shop.

What are you trying to do with it?

Yea, there are better options but until I get an accessport I'm using this adapter with the Torque Pro app.

Here is an example of a run at WOT I logged to make sure my hpfp was working properly for example

Good luck

Here's my suggestion if you want to pass emissions but don't want to repair your car. Go online and get yourself an ODB2 scanner for less than $20. Then when you pull up to the smog place next time, plug it in and clear all the codes on your car and then run the emissions test.

As long as the light doesn't come on during the test, you should be good to go and could pass your test. You can also go somewhere like AutoZone and have them check the code on your car for free to see what it is.

I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:

Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.

Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.

Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).

Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.

skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.

Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

There should be a stored code from the airbag light which would help with figuring out what's causing it. You won't get it with a scanner that only pulls CEL codes. A dealer could get it, or you could something like this. I have one and I was able to get ABS codes from it.

Good luck with the blend doors. I almost wish our Jeeps had the Takata airbag issue because then I'd have the dealer replace the blend doors, heater core, and a/c evap while they had the dash off to do the airbags. Just so I wouldn't have to worry about them.

Sure. You're going to be running a power wire from the radar, across the top of your windshield, under the top part of your A-pillar, into the rubber trim, down to the side access, and into the fuse box. You're going to put an add-a-circuit in to put two fuses in one slot and share a fuse that turns on when the car is in accessory mode so the radar is only on when the car is on. These are the steps I took:



Step 1:
Mount the radar where you want it to be. I have mine above my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my windshield view at all and isn't visible from outside the car.



Step 2:
Plug the power wire into the radar.



Step 3:
Feel the top of the windshield where the headliner meets it. There's a roughly 1/4" gap there. Tuck the power wire into this gap, working your way towards the driver's side door. The red line is the path your wire will be taking.



Step 4:
When you get to the edge of the windshield, use one of the trim tools to gently pry the A-pillar cover just enough to allow you to tuck the wire into it. Get the wire flat and then push the cover back into place.



Step 5:
Tuck the wire in between the rubber trim on the door, working towards the dash.



Step 6:
Use the trim tool to pry off the side cover. It has 3 clips and should come out fairly easily.



Step 7:
Remove dash drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides towards the back.



Step 8:
Pull out a fuse, put it in your add-a-circuit, then put the add-a-circuit plug where you pulled the fuse from. The red arrow points to the fuse I chose.



Step 9:
Turn on the car and verify that the radar powers up and down with the car.



Step 10:
Velcro strap the excess power wire and tuck it out of the way.



Step 11:
Replace the drawer and side panel



Stuff to buy:

Power wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Direct-Power-Radar-Detectors/dp/B0003NN83U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497974491&sr=8-2&keywords=9500ix+hardwire



Add a circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Fusebox-Circuit/dp/B00UB9W92C/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UB9W92C&pd_rd_r=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M&pd_rd_w=AupqD&pd_rd_wg=ZwoBH&psc=1&refRID=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M



Fuse puller:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPFP2-Fuse-Puller-Pack/dp/B00CSBUFOU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497975152&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+puller



Trim tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I disagree. I actually am happy with the current systems in modern (minus the dash board touchscreens. Fucking hate those things, just give me knobs and buttons!). In my opinion they are easier to work on. Hear me out.

I was broke through my 20’s, so whenever I had car trouble it was either “fix it myself, or don’t have a car”. I’m not a mechanic, but I’ve learned a thing or two about car repairs. Even though I can afford it now, I still fix my own car because I’m now aware of how much mechanics gouge people.

I can’t speak for all the cars, but I just like the way components were placed in my car. I drive a current model Grand Cherokee and everything is just so clean, spacious, and well organized under the hood. The difference between my modern car compared to my older cars is kind of like this. I can access major components much easier now that it’s not a cramped mess down there anymore.

With computers running everything they possibly can though, there is a downside. The thing people like to complain about is how a computer can fail and kill the car. A dealership will try to charge you well over $1000 dollars to “fix” a computer, but you can just order a new computer online for like $200 and replace it yourself (it’s easier to replace than any mechanical component). I actually like the computer systems because they do a fantastic job of monitoring all kinds of things making preventive maintenance a breeze. Playing with this thing has been very fun. Buy one and save yourself the $100 your dealer mechanic would’ve charged you for just to tell you what’s wrong.

Also in general, today’s cars are better than ever in general. Most of them are built to last longer now. Also, the basic major components are still the same (axles, exhaust, brakes, differential, underbody stuff) and are no more or less harder to work on now than in the past.

If you got a "Check engine" light on, and you want to know what it means but dont want to drop it off at a pricey mechanic just for a diagnosis and potentially expensive repair, head over to amazon and pick up one of these blue tooth OBD2 scanners. That ones for android(I have it, works great), this one works for iphone and android.

That plus a typically free app like "Torque" let you find out the error codes your car is throwing out(and all other kind of basic diagnostic stuff), so you can google it and see if its something you need to fix right away, could easily fix yourself(with youtube), or if its just a minor problem you dont need to worry about yet.

And if you do take it to the shop, you can probably save them some time(and thus money for yourself), and being more informed, keep yourself from being taken for a ride.

If your car is 1996 or newer it should have a port for these(typically under the steering wheel above the pedals), save yourself some anxiety about that new warning light that just showed up.

Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.

I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.

The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.

I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.

I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!

If you go to Amazon and type in "OBD2 scanner" you'll get tons of different results. They have all kinds of scan tools nowadays. The more expensive ones with really advanced features can even cost thousands of dollars and look like freaking Ipads!

But a basic $15 scanner like this is still great to have. It's super simple to use. You plug it into your cars OBDII port (located in the driver's side footwell, usually somewhere near the hood release latch.) Then flip your key to the "on" position (don't turn the engine on, just turn on the ignition such that you can use the car's accessories and unlock the steering column.)

From there you can pull codes as well as erase them. The scanner will come with more detailed instructions but it's pretty self-explanatory. The thing only has 2 buttons so if you can use a computer or cell phone it shouldn't be a challenge.

That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...

Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.

To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.

Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!

Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).

If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.

I don't believe you can downgrade the firmware. Installing the version 70 first is a requirement for the "official" android auto. I paid $162 for the USB cables and dock ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRPSRKH ), and $10 for the trim kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O )

I found the instructions to follow here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=679114

There's a link to an 'hdrive' site, find the NA firmware, put them on a USB key (16gb or smaller) and follow the instructions to the letter. It's easy.

Then find the folder for the videos of the cable install, find the closest match to yours. Also easy.

Firmware took an hour (mostly sitting and waiting). Cables took an hour in my 2018 CX-5.

Both were easy as far as anything technical I've ever done. Very easy. Just take your time, follow each step carefully.

My bad, the BAFX is a good, simple, inexpensive OBD dongle and it looks like I spoke prematurely about it dying, lol (key on is important, Doh!)...

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=BAFX&qid=1559133910&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

I'm still wondering if the increased speeds of the OBDLink MX+ may be worth it though as well as the increased data pids for my Toyota.

The easiest way is to just break down and pay for a Lisle funnel. They make the whole process incredibly easy and they're worth every penny. I spent a day or two dicking around with bubbles and squeezing and revving and all that and THEN bought the damn funnel. Or ask if a friend has one. It took 20 minutes to do and the system has been great for a few months now.

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

I'm not sure what an add-on is! BUT this is something that would be very helpful to me! I am always dropping bolts and nuts when I work on my truck (or anything really) these things are great at helping to prevent that!

pay attention in class! (especially if you are paying for school!)

Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.

I went OEM because some of the aftermarket installs can have weird gremlins. The downside is that it’s limited to the range of your existing keyfobs. That and the fact that if you have the limited with the smart key the car shuts off when you open the door. I totally get why it works that way, it’s a feature not a bug and it’s not big deal, but some people are annoyed by that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBVU92I/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that fits the 2014-2017 models, there is a similar part number (search PT398-891X0) for earlier 5th gen models.

I had to do some googling and digging in the 4Runner forums to find the install documentation, but I think it was this thread. The instructions covered everything, it was really very straightforward and was 100% plug and play. I have a limited and factory security so I didn’t have to install the hood switch, but that doesn’t look too hard either. If those aren’t the correct instructions let me know and I’ll dig it off of my hard drive.

You’ll want to get some plastic panel popping tools off of amazon, I got these. Other than that you’ll just need some common hand tools for the bolts, a screw or two, and cutting the tails off of the zip ties you install. Oh, they recommend a torque wrench for the knee airbag you have to take out (it’s less scary than it sounds, I promise). I had a cheap harbor freight one and it worked fine, but I don’t think it would be the end of the world if you just tightened them with your socket wrench by feel to what they were when you removed it, they don’t seem like they would be mission critical for the airbag to still work, they just hold it in place.

To get it to work with your keys, they have to be programmed. While there are apparently ECU programming tools one can buy, they seemed sketch and getting the techstream software to work was a fucking nightmare (I had to run a VM with Windows XP, and that’s before the driver nightmares) so I recommend just taking all the keys into a Toyota dealer, mine programmed them for the remote start for ~$60. It might even be cheaper if you time it with a maintenance visit. In the end my dealer wanted $750 to install the factory remote start but buying it myself and only paying them for the keys I spent half of that and 90 minutes of my time.

Oh, and the little barrel shaped plastic screw-head cover on the passenger kickplate in the bottom right of the passenger floorboard waaaay up in the back? It unscrews, it doesn’t pull off. Remember that, it took me like 10 minutes to figure that out. That was probably the toughest part other than getting the wiring harness actually plugged in, it was a tight fucking fit with all the wires.

If the battery is getting weak (especially in these colder temps), check the charging level of the alternator. If it's ok, pick up a battery charger that will automatically switch to float once reaching full charge. Throw the battery on there overnight.

Keep cold out of your gear. Like in hiking, being cold is worse than wet since it'll sap your energy. I wear a balaclava around my head and just picked up a fleece neck warmer to keep cold wind from entering my coat and helmet.

Pinlock visors are great at keeping your visor from fogging up if you wear a full face helmet.

Reflective tape on your helmet, bike and gear will add to your visibility.

Keep track of your tires and brakes. Give yourself 20 minutes to gear up and check the bike before you leave. You don't want to forget a piece of gear because you were in a rush.

Don't override your ability in lousy weather and know alternate, safer and slower routes if you need to get off the highway. It happened to me once in Skagit Valley when a rainstorm pushed me three lanes over (I shouldn't have been going so fast in the left lane) so I exited and took a really slow trip on some farming roads, then the old 99 highway all the way to Seattle.

Be aware and cautious, especially in the dark and wet around the unmindful cagers in this town, but have fun! These cold, sunny, dry days have been a blast to ride.

I am doing the same thing in my 2010 Ford Escape. I ordered a double din dash kit off amazon, made the hole a tad bit bigger and i already fiberglassed the tray that i will use to slide it in and out of.


My plan is just like yours, torque, nav, music, etc. I already have a Turtle Beach USB Audio sound card, for usb OTG, where a powered USB hub will be used for the sound card and the 64gb usb stick. (Works great btw.).


The only issue I have right now is power, while its not important, especially when using a powered USB hub, I still feel comfortable with it charging while its in my car. So the project is on standby until the pogo pinout gets figured out (should know as soon as the official dock launches), and then go from there.


So far here is my parts list:


Charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I44CHQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

USB Audio: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VO4X4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

Bluetooth OBD2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

If you think it's mostly through the tread I would just complete the puncture and use a plug kit to patch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b13u23_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0SA3YB452VVP3N16PZ0Y&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=659a304f-fb85-5f26-beb6-828a8e1c046a&pf_rd_i=15706711


I know a lot of folks will recommend a tire patch (as opposed to the plug) but are cheap and I've found them to be really effective. Very easy diy.

There's a smaller sized blue OBD2 plug in on Amazon it goes along the lines of "panlong" or something, it's only like $10-15, works fine in my Lexus and Mercedes, it's able to clear errors and stuff, real-time info works well. And it's really low profile unlike those other adapters so if it sticks straight into the foot well it won't bother you



Edit: it's $11

Works fantastic with torque pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o..cBbK4QXZ3R

This one is the best according to most of the car guys I watch. http://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS it gives you much more information than just the one code, it gives possible causes, possible solutions, fuel/air ratios, compression (if your car has sensors for it) and the ability to clear codes, as well as some other features.

Source: I watch a lot of car repair channels on YouTube, I fix my own cars, and I've owned a couple different OBD testers.

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

I did it the hard way. It really wasn't that hard. You will need a set of trim removal tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG
and a drill bit and I think that was it. I don't even remember a screwdriver but you might have needed one. I followed a youtube video. I did it on a blazing hot day and get it done in 20 minutes. I remember my sweat dripping onto the rear cover thingy and evaporating as I looked down... I recommend doing it on a cool day because you will be under a big window :)

Here's Mopar's instructions for removing the front fascia. Just disregard the part of the instruction about removing the chrome grill surrounds (that has nothing to do with what you're doing)

Tool for putting in plastic pop rivets

plastic pop rivets

replaceable rivet clips - not really necessary as you can re-use the ones you take out. But good to have handy.

Trim removal tool - not completely necessary, but helps to have them and prevents scratching things

at 10mm deep socket - this is necessary to get 2 nuts that are stuffed up in the fender. You'll also need a long extension to get to those

It took me about 5 hours to do start to finish, by myself in my garage. Only help I had was lifting the front fascia off (my wife helped) because you really need 2 people lifting (one on each end) to get it off without breaking anything. If you have someone to help you, you can get it done in much less time

First one I ever got was an Autel MaxiScan M300. It doesn't suggest fixes, but that's what I used google for! Worked great on ever car I used it on

edit: I still use it when all I want to do is read or clear codes and not read live data

Good tip.

OP this is the cheap one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_a9TIDbHBPRDM3

Pair that with torque pro lite and you'll be able to get all the diagnostic data off the bus.

I recommend everyone have one on hand. My 2017 has thrown a few CELs since I bought it. Very useful tool to get started on fixes.

I bought this one because the real power is in the app, and the app is only 10 bucks. It works well. Takes a little setup but it sounds like you're up to the task. It's really simple but lots of great info about the auto you're checking! You can keep it connected while you drive and check on the performance live.

Pro-tip: Check engine lights are usually pretty easily repaired, but can indicate serious malfunctions inside your engine, and can cause all sorts of cascading problems down the line.

Since 1996, the OBD-II Interface has been standardized and is required in every vehicle sold in the US. So if you have a car in America, made after 1996 - you can do the following:

You can get one of these and an app on iOS/Android, and monitor all sorts of sensor information from your engine, as well as check and clear check engine light codes! It's very cool, and is something I use to monitor the health and performance of my engine on a daily basis.

The total investment is less than $20, and can grant a lot of peace-of-mind.

Lucky you! Now that I've got a branch new hybrid battery, I'm on the hunt for a low mileage Gen 2 Prius. 🤣 At 185k I'm starting to run into more nagging high-mileage issues now.

If you have an Android phone, there's a great app called Dr. Prius that can help you do some diagnostics/health monitoring on the battery. It can help you determine if the battery is on the way out. All you need is a bluetooth OBD adapter and the phone. This is the model I've been using for about 6 years now - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/

I was fortunate to have an opportunity to learn how to work on cars when I was younger. While I never had any desire to be a full time mechanic, I hate paying shops more. Newer cars while complex, they still can be done by the DIY mechanic. A good two way scanner will go a long ways. For $100, I recommend the blue driver as a good one way scanner. I use it with my ipad to do any kind of diagnosis on cars. I'm still shopping for a good two way scanner to do any kind of testing/diagnosis. Link: https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542056166&sr=8-3&keywords=blue+driver

wow. OBD2 adapter sounds amazing.

Are you talking about something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005M1AVFQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1Y5W4CZTQWWW2PE8AAC3

http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464114967&sr=1-1&keywords=OBD2+iphone


I only have an iPhone.

It's actually very easy. I'm a total newbie - if you go through my posts, you'll see that I bought my first guitar in June and that the Rocksmith community helped a lot.

Since then I learned how to set up (truss rod, action, intonation, pickup height) and change the tuners/ bridges of my guitars. The key here is to not be afraid of your guitar anymore - I used to be scared shitless I would break it. No, I won't. The thing is tough as hell, and you need to first overcome that fear. Fun fact, the first guitar I tried to perform a setup on was a $1000 Gibson. I know, I'm stupid and should've tried with my cheaper guitars, but oh well.

All you really need to adjust the truss rod is the truss rod wrench (should come with your guitar if you bought it new), some sort of feeler gauge, an action ruler - I use it for the precise measures, a Phillips screwdriver & flathead, and an accurate tuner - I use the Polytune 2

If you'd like to learn, I could send some tips & noob advice I learned for myself. It's really easy - I PROMISE.

By the way, I'd suggest ordering one of these and downloading the Torque Pro app to use with it. Great addition to anyone's road kit, and it lets you access the kind of information you need to effectively diagnose car troubles. Information like fuel trims, trouble codes, O2 data, etc. are IMMENSELY helpful when people ask us for help here :-)

Yeah, I know it's a small chance. But sometimes you'll see a description of a problem and go "THAT'S EXACTLY IT!".

Oh? Well -that- I can help out with, for under $30! Setup is mainly bluetooth pairing and turning on the app, worked instantly for me. App decodes codes or looks them up for you, too!
Here's an adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here's the app to use it ($5):
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Itunes (I haven't used this, but have heard the name recommended before):
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-fusion-obd2-vehicle-scan-tool-diagnostics/id650684932?mt=8

Alternative iTunes(again, not an apple user, but heard good things):

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bluedriver-obd2-scan-tool/id445403397?mt=8

I was borrowing the GoPro Hero3+ from my friend who rode with me. I used Torque for my first run, but didn't bother recording the stats on the others since I was just trying to have fun. I use a Bluetooth BAFX ODB II reader with my phone, and it works well.

He also mounts his phone on his windshield an app called SoloStorm to record data from ODB II and external GPS. App also acts as a dash cam which is nice considering that the GoPro was acting up and didn't auto start and record any of his runs unfortunately. In theory it was supposed to trigger the GoPro, but we were having connection issues with it that day, so we started this video manually before the lap.

I didn't edit the video itself except to trim off what wasn't part of the run. Just used iMovie since it was available.

Yes - I bought a cheap $15 bluetooth ODB2 module that links to my phone. From there, I use Torque to manage everything. Great for testing sensors, checking codes, etc... Also cool to have it in my glovebox for when my coworkers need one out of the blue - makes you look cool for half a second.

EDIT: Here is what I use for the module:
https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Warranty/dp/B01BY2CK32

As for the app, I use Torque Pro:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

So the solution for camping and common power outages are pretty close to the same.

If you live somewhere where the power goes out often, get yourself a 12v adapter for your machine (varies by machine), buy a AGM deep cycle trolling motor battery (~$100) and a Battery Tender. Plug the battery tender to the wall, hook it to the battery, then hook the 12v adapter to your machine. Congratulations: the battery tender keeps the battery topped off, the CPAP runs off the battery, and you never miss a beat when the power goes out. If you're looking to lose power for more than one night (say you regularly have to wait out hurricanes) you'll want a bigger capacity deep cycle battery if you want to run the humidifier.

For car camping just leave the battery tender at home and turn off the humidifier. Fully charged battery should easily last you 5 nights.

If you're more of a backpacker/rough camper pick up a large USB battery pack that supports 12V out. People with Philips Respironics machines report that pack gives them 2 nights without humidifier. If you have a Philips machine it actually comes with the right size barrel plug, so no 12v adapter needed.

Thanks for the responses!

Would a OBD2 reader like this work? It has good reviews and is cheap. Just want to make sure it has the ability to change those settings and not just see error codes.

Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 EOBD Scanner Scan Tool Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader for iOS iPhone iPad and Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Zuspzb9KMHRCX

I bought the dongle on Amazon (link). I used it with LeadSpy a few times before making my decision. The state of health when up quite a bit when the firmware was updated. I checked it a few times after that and it went up and down very slightly - not enough to matter. I did end up buying out the lease. I'm happy with the decision. I might have splurged on a Model 3 if it was $35K at the time. It would be nice to have a car I could use for road trips but the Leaf is great for commuting.

This car has ~140k miles and the majority of things under the hood seem to be original. The last owner kept a pretty good record of routine maintenance. They were not the type to take the car to the dealership for repairs or maintenance, but everything that I have changed lately (plugs, wires, PCV valve, serpentine belt) were all Motorcraft, which makes me think that most of it is original.

I did order an OBDII scan tool which should be here in a couple days, so hopefully that will be of some help. Most of my previous cars were older and I didn't have any use for that sort of thing.

Is the check engine light on? You can go to any parts store like advance auto and they will scan for free. Write down what they tell you.

You can also buy this and use your smart phone to read codes using your smart phone. It'll also let you have a digital dashboard on your phone/tablet.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l8bqyb6BDQ200

I bought this and then this app. Total was $25 for an OBD II scanner that resets some codes as well can display cool and useful realtime gauges to Android devices about all kinds of your car's performance readings.


I see there are other cheaper ones now, but I've used these 2 and know they work great together.

This is the code reader if in the future you're interested or working on another car. The app was free and I seriously love it. Code readers that a garage use are expensive because you're paying for a powerful handheld computer, but most of us already have powerful handheld computers!

I use this one I bought off Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X3TRFLJ3ET3A&keywords=bafx+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1563900888&s=gateway&sprefix=bafx+bluertoo%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3

​

Some of the cheaper ones are not compatible with all of the OBD2 protocols, which is probably why the one you got doesn't work with your XTerra, but this one complains to be compatible with all OBD2 vehicles 1996 and newer. I have used it with a 2000 Cavalier, 2002 Mustang, 2005 XTerra, 2007 Camry, 2012 Tacoma, and 2015 Versa successfully so that is most likely true.

If you have an android phone, these are great. They pair to your phone and give code read out and ability to reset the light if its just a glitch. You have to have an app on your phone, some are free, but one of the best is only is $5.00 (torque pro). I'm not sure about iphone stuff. (edit: its also nice to have an idea what's wrong before going to a repair person.)

https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B01BY2CK32

Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.

They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F

I’m currently in a similar situation with a car worth less (and we still owe more on the loan) than what the potential repair is. By some dumb luck I had the thought to look through the paperwork from when my husband bought the car and he had freaking bought mechanical breakdown coverage!!! So I’m breathing a sigh of relief atm. But as for you, the code thrown by the car is not always indicative of what exactly is wrong. For example my car was throwing an engine code (p0172) and multiple engine cylinders misfiring, but in actuality the turbocharger had gone bad (still an expensive fix, but less than an engine repair). Trans tune and slip fluid, may help in the immediate future, but after that the problem will still persist, its a temporary solution if it even works. To clear the codes you can buy your own OBDII reader and just plug it into the car and clear the codes if you really wish. This one I know for a fact allows you to clear codes, but you might be able to shop around and find another cheaper one that will suffice. As a suggestion, some mechanics will buy cars that need work because they are able to fix them and then sell them for more money. It’s just an option and would put some money in your pocket to buy a new car if you can’t afford this repair.

Edit- wanted to add to the part about codes not being exactly what’s wrong. They still correlate to the mechanical failure. The engine code of p0172 is that the system is too rich in bank 1. This means not enough air and too much fuel is flowing into the combustion chambers. So it makes sense that since the turbo is not functioning, enough air would not be getting mixed in with the fuel.

Edit 2- hastily wrote my first edit and apparently irked some people off :) fixed my mistake.

Nothing crazy really... You would just have to maintain the vehicle on a different schedule meaning oil changes and filter changes should be done sooner than usual, keeping the vehicle at idle wears the life of the oil a bit faster... And just generally get in there and check that you are good on all gaskets, seals, belts, vacuum hoses, check ur plugs and such. Probably not a bad idea to flush ur coolant with new if it's really old.
And generaly keep an eye on oil pressure and your temp gauge so you can catch it if something is gone wrong and shut the engine off...

I used to wake up and turn my engine on for heat then go back to bed for an hour or two every morning without an issue... I used this wifi obd scanner

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY

Paired to my phone so I could see the temps and such without leaving my bed again. Also it's nice to have so you can read and erase codes and have a better idea of what's going on with your vehicle if something is wrong... And on long drives I would use it on data logging mode to catch any issues and adjust my driving to get optimal mpgs.

Edit:

If you do go this route something you could do to get the most juice out of your charging system is upgrading your big 3

Here's a video on how to do that:

https://youtu.be/gnmXKjm3tZE

And a smart battery isolator between your starting battery and your secondary is not a bad idea

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

Firstly, I agree with ramps over jacks for anything not requiring wheel removal.
Second, one of these adjustable oil filter tools have been my best friend. 1 tool any filter. They make a 2 finger and a 3 finger model. I have a 2 finger one as shown in the link, reviews show it has more "bite" than the 3 finger one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8?tag=vglnkc3018-20

Yes, and easy enough to do yourself. It helps to have a trim tool to help pull panels and tuck wires in.

For best (read: accurate) results, make sure your dongle uses a genuine up-to-date ELM327 and not a bootleg knockoff running outdated firmware. (A Chinese company got hold of an older version that didn't have the security bits set right and did a ROM dump to get some of the firmware, which has gone into mass reproduction for the cheap ELM knockoffs. The real ELM, OTOH, has had several firmware revisions since then and isn't missing entire blocks of program code.)

This is the one I have as a spare/quick-and-dirty code checker. It works well, it's pretty accurate compared to my more expensive scanners, and it's a legit ELM327 running new firmware.

 

There are also new competitors to the ELM327, namely the STN1110, STN1170, STN2120, which claim to offer faster performance and a larger number of supported protocols. However, I have no experience with these as only a scant handful of dongles are using them.

This is the one I went with:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_EFqiub0TTBDWG

I have had it on for a year and it is holding up great. The velcro is very strong and it holds well.

I highly recommend grabbing a cheap OBD2 reader off amazon like this one. It can help you fix certain minor issues yourself or at least give you a heads up when you have to take it in for service.

Don't worry bro. I got your back. I've had this for the last two years and it has saved me tons of money and trips to Autozone (mostly for family cars). Torque is also awesome and shows you all kinds of cool data.

Get yourself a $20 OBD-II code reader which can be used to clear the codes. Maybe borrow one first at AutoZone, to clear the codes, and see how long it takes for the CEL to come back on. If it's more than a, hour or so, take your new reader when you go for the smog test, and clear the codes right before. Maybe it'll get past if the CEL stays off long enough.

I have this one, works great:

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK

It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.

I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.

I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.

Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55

Sorry! Coulda sworn I made a description with details. Ok here goes.

So, it's a 2006 S60 2.5T Automatic. 125k miles and it's completely stock in every regard. I run 93 octane and Castrol EDGE European Formula 0W-40 for the winter. Current temp was 24 Fahrenheit and vehicle was at operating temperature well before I did this test/pull.

I'm using the OBD Fusion app on iOS 10.2 iPhone 7. The OBD2 reader itself is called the "VeePeak OBD2 Wifi only for iOS and android" Here is a link to it in amazon where I bought it.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

Shortly after this, I peaked at 15psi boost :)

I don't think you understood my question - Bank 1 and Bank 2 each have 2 sensors - B1S1 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 - Upstream), B1S2 (Downstream), B2S1 and B2S2.

You need to replace B1SX - What's the X? You should find that out, rather than replacing both (which are about $100 a piece).

If it's a code that's being thrown, you should buy a cheap OBD2 scanner and download Torque (Android) or CarDoctor (iPhone) or another OBD2 app on your phone to read the codes. If you have an iPhone, they usually only support WiFi enabled devices, while Android phones support Bluetooth. I got this (https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526942582&sr=8-4&keywords=ELM327) and it works great, but I have an android.

You can read out what the code is, and it will probably tell you which bank and sensor is throwing it as well (maybe not, but if he narrowed it down to that bank, its worth a shot).

If you are in the states then absolutely not, just because it has a nice front end doesn't add $3k worth of value, a car with engine problems assume you'll have to replace the engine and if you don't then woo! But knowing ka's the overheating issue is going to be air in the system and I say that with like 85% certainty, jack up the front of the car and blast the heater as you shake it and squeeze hoses to get all of the air bubbles out, this might even be a good idea if you are going to own a 240 and do your own work. If really helps when bleeding coolant, I use one often at the shop I work at.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OBLLxbQ4KG5RJ

You kidding me? This is the easiest tire damage to fix. Get a plug kit like this for under $10 at the nearest auto parts place, follow the directions and throw a plug in, continue driving. I've put probably 5,000 miles on a set of rear tires, both of which had plugs in similar locations. Saved the day when a girl I know thought she was totally SOL and would have to buy a new tire.

Any small, round puncture like that will plug very well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484015185&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=416SaTHOpkL&ref=plSrch

Get one of these. Download an OBD app. The apps I've used will bring up specific codes and read out faults.

I will add that this may not be rock solid advice as I've heard of some newer vehicles freaking out and requiring their software to be reinstalled. If it Renegade, I wouldn't hesitate to give it a shot in your circumstances.

You may be thinking "This isn't good advice because I want to know now" and don't want to wait for shipping. I still recommend ordering one even if you explore other avenues. I bought this exact unit and it has paid for itself multiple times just in fuel savings of driving to a AutoZone/dealership.

Wish you luck and hope the best for you and your Renegade!

This method worked great for my 2015 AC. It should work on 2012ish+ tacos.

You will need a bluetooth or USB OBD adapter. You can get them fairly cheap on amazon however the standard one seems to be the BAFX tool for bluetooth. I then used a simple OBD2 Terminal app (for android, either this one or this one, can't remember I used) to send the commands.

Just be extra careful and make sure you type the commands in exactly as shown.

I am not liable for anything ever.

Edit: FYI: No matter the method, any changes of this nature are automatically reverted when the battery is disconnected.

100% agreed!

I bought the BAFX (Android or Windows mobile device only), Amazon link here, alongside the Torque Pro app. Can't go wrong, and gets me all that I need for diagnostic :)

Very good info, buddy!

Unless you are printing PETG, or the paper you choose is a different thickness, or if it's swolen from humidity.

Paper isn't the best tool, among other things it varies in thickness, a set of feeler gauges (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4) is a much better tool for this.

But I have completely quit using it. I now print out this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071 and, as it's printing, manually adjust the bed screws until it's printing with uniform squeeze out and the print looks good. This works great for printers without automatic bed leveling like mine.

I was talking about this

I think bluetooth adapters are a bit more than the $5 the person above said. I got mine for $20 and it works great with the high speed mode in torque. I'm sure you can find a china special for $5-10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few things from HF that I own and would recommend. Jack Stands, jack, breaker bar, 1/4'' ratchet, 3/8'' ratchet, 1/2'' ratchet, 3/8'' locking extensions, 1/2'' locking extensions, screwdrivers. Some other things I would recommend, Lisle oil filter wrench, Lisle oil pan. I would look on Ebay for used Craftsman sockets sets and combination wrenches. That should be enough to get you started. You can upgrade and expand from there as you see fit.

And Don't forget the HF coupons ;)

For that short of a ride, everything I've said here is relatively irrelevant... I misread your original post and thought you said "1000mi." You're just a quick drive from home, it's not that big of a deal for someone to pick you up in case of breakdown. :) I'd say you're being overly-cautious, but that's a good thing. I regularly do 300+ mile round-trips in one day that begin and end at my house with no prior preparations, or without packing anything said here, so you should be fine! Just remember to have fun and not worry too much...

Tire patch kits are all the same, but you can get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333403186&sr=1-17 from Wal-mart for less than that. I have a really old one that I pulled out of a wrecked car, but it looks the same. Slime makes good stuff, that kit will hold up. The inflaters are all the same too, just pick up the CO2 inflator that Slime makes when you get the patch kit. The patch is more to get you to a shop for a new tire, rather than to get you to your destination. I really don't recommend riding on a patched tire for any length of time.

What I usually pack when I go motorcycle camping (off the top of my head):

• hammock tent -- Hennesey Expedition
  
• sleeping bag
  
• change of clothes per day (tshirt, jeans, underwear, socks)
  
• shoes
  
• riding jacket
  
• helmet
  
• bodywash
  
• deodorant
  
• toothbrush
  
• small towel
  
• screwdriver (phillips / flathead)
  
• 2x adjustable wrenches
  
• allen wrench
  
• duct tape
  
• tire patch kit
  
• CO2 inflator
  
• LED flashlight
  
• food and water (instant noodles, crackers, kippers, trail mix, energy bars, etc... )
  
• Camping stove
  
• fuel
  
• mess kit (small pot / skillet, bowl, mug, chop sticks)
  
• knife
  
• small first aid kit w/ insect repellent
  
• phone
  
• phone charger
  
• camera
  
• small tripod
  
  I generally ride until past dark, then just put up the tent at a public park and leave again at sunrise. No one will mess with you, and if they do, tell them where you're riding and where you're from (and that you did that on a scooter), and they'll usually not care and let you stay.
  
  If you're on facebook, look up GASS (greater atlanta scooter society) or the Terminal Scooter Club. Both groups occasionally go on longish (~200mi) rides in a group. A group ride would be a good way to get your feet wet without any worry of getting stuck, alone, in the middle of nowhere. :D

I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE

Smart move! Let us know what’s going on.

Edit: still a good idea to pick up an obd scanning tool. They are cheap and cheerful. Example: Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal Scanner Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7-FIzbGJC42Y7

Just did this over the weekend. As the others have stated, if you're not forceful, you shouldn't be breaking any clips. I could probably tear the dash apart again in about 15-20 mins if I had to do it again.

I do highly recommend purchasing a plastic auto trim remover kit. They made popping the panels and clips ALOT easier. I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539017376&sr=8-4&keywords=auto+trim+removal

The trim remover comes in handy when you're trying to pop the clips to loosen the old AUX hub unit. You can find details instructions on how to remove the TRIM panel in the TRIM PDFs here: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/1%20CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL

​

IMO, I was more nervous about the software update than the physical labor of running the cables. I spent more time doing the software update because I needed a FAT32 formatted USB stick. That was a challenge since most of my memory sticks are 64gb+ and can only be formatted in exFAT/NTFS on Windows 10. Partitioning the 64gb drives to <32GB didn't really help me either, so I had to go purchase a <32GB usb stick and formatted to FAT32. Other than that, I was nervous about the installation failing, but it was also pretty straight forward. You need to complete the update ahead of the physical installation, so I'd recommend just getting that out of your way first.

I'm glad I did the installation myself, I don't know how neat the dealers would be in terms of dampening and tidying up the new cables.

Actual link so others can see more easily: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Yep, that's the one I have. Works like a charm for two years now.

Here is my advice, buy some new strings and a feeler gauge. Grab an allen wrench, a screw driver, and your tuner. Restring your bass with the new strings. Then watch this video for neck adjustment. It helps to have a capo, if you dont and pen and some rubber bands will do fine. After you watch that video set up your bass neck relief. Then set your intonation. This covers most of what you need to do to get it sounding more accurate. This should help with the fret buzz.

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503677599&sr=8-1&keywords=BAFX

Anything other than that, you mine as well save your money for a true scan tool.

Make sure it's a true BAFX product. There's tons of look-a-likes. It's not worth saving $5 bucks for it to crap out.

HA. I logged on this evening to find the comment where someone had suggested exactly this.
I've heard good things about the Torque app used with a bluetooth adapter. The one I was suggested was this one.

I'm curious bout the many bluetooth/wifi dongles and their abilities to work with German CAN cars, and possibly Ross-Tech software.

It was not hard to build the mobo into the case, just keep on top of your cable management. If you can, remove the HD sled first (unless of course you need it). All the screws come with the products that I purchased, yes. Be careful about stripping screws, just use the proper driver (no power!). I believe I have 8 standoffs mounted + 1 nub that comes pre-attached to the case. I probably watched ALL the youtube videos, lol. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fractal+meshify+c+build

Things I made sure I had for my build before all my parts showed up.

1. Anti Static wristband
   
   
2. Computer screw set I did end up stripping a screw or two and had to replace them from here.
   
   
3. Nice microfiber cloth for the tempered glass leave the plastic on the glass during the build, it will get loaded with finger prints.
   
   
4. Screwdriver set you probably already have this, I just wanted magnetic ones.
   
   
5. Fine screwdriver I used this A LOT.
   
   
6. Magnetic screw tray
   
   I got most of these items as a tip from a youtube video but I can not find it at the moment. Yeah, definitely let me know if you need help with anything or just want me to show you "how I did it". The manual for the mother board has the header LEDs defined on there, there is one dead spot (no pin) in the top right, obviously dont use that one but also don't use the one below it even though its labeled ground for the reset button (thats the only issue I had).

You can get a cheap bluetooth one like this and interface it with something like the Torque app on Android. It's worked pretty well with my Honda Accord so far.

Now that I think about it OP, why not just patch it yourself? Patch kits are super cheap, and it looks like you have the tire off anyway? Tons of Youtube videos on how to do this, and it would only take you probably 15 mins? Worth a shot maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_29?crid=20AWTIR9UX41A&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1573233453&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-29

Yes, what this person is saying. Download Leaf Spy Pro (yes, it'll cost you a few bucks off Google Play, oh well), and get an OBD (I got this one - ANY Leaf you come across, plug it in, load up Leaf Spy Pro, and look at the top right number in the main screen. Here is an example -- the 50.8% at the top at 67.4% SOC (state of charge) means the car is probably around 75-77% SOH (state of health) -- you don't want to buy a used Leaf like mine with that much battery degradation unless you just won't drive long-distance (my trips to Portland from Hillsboro are very rare, only about once every two weeks, and it's only 35 miles roundtrip).

BTW for anyone wondering from my screenshot, yes, the battery does get that hot. It's 85 F outside right now outside my house, and I just came back from the grocery store. Yes, Leaf Spy Pro does indeed say my battery is at 127 F. One time I came back from Portland and my battery temped at 205 F according to Leaf Spy Pro. This is what us Leaf customers get for buying an EV with no thermal management system...

Third or fourth 12V battery, not the hybrid battery, right?

And I'd be looking for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS I unfortunately have an old iPhone, so finding an app would be difficult for me, but finding a friend to help out wouldn't be impossible.

I've had good luck with this one and Torque free.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_C27UCbTN54J61

I use both Torque Pro and Carly.
Torque Pro works great for gauges and data, Carly works great for coding.
I've been using this cheap bluetooth adapter for both for 2 1/2 years:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/

Well, I'd first recommend you step down in pad size and get a different backing plate. There is a 5 inch backing plate on Amazon that you can use with the 5.5 inch pads. Secondly, I'm not a big fan of Griot's pads, and I'd get something else if you can, like Lake Country or Buff and Shine. They're just better quality to me.

You've got the sandpaper order mixed up. You go from smaller to bigger. You go with the more coarse(1500) then move to fine(2000). I'd find out the equivalent abrasiveness level of the steel wool you used to see if that grit will be able to pull out the scratches you put in. If it's the 0000 steel wool I think the equivalent is 600-800 grit sandpaper from all the Google-Fu I just did.

EDIT - I just put together a cart for you on Autopia - GG6, 5 inch backing plate, Microfiber pad, Polishing Pad, Optimum No Rinse(ridiculously useful for EVERYTHING), Speedy Sponge Medium/Fine Grade Pack, M105 32 oz, M205 32 oz, D101 and it's at $240 with our Reddit Coupon code. You need more than 1 of each pad, but it gives you an idea of the savings you can get. Ray(/u/autopiavega) will hook you up if you talk to him and he'll get you what you need at a better price than you're looking at now. You'd have plenty of product and if you get the hang of things you can do a couple other cars and make your money back once you're practiced.

You can get a code reader that connects to your phone for about that much. I think. As long as the Justy is not too old for OBD II. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WPW6BAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518391460&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wifi+obd2+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=41RSPD0DTYL&ref=plSrch

Also, check out /r/subarujusty Its very quiet there but they may be able to help you diagnose. Or be pessimistic because there are few parts avalible for Justys. Good luck.

If it's an ongoing thing, you can get an OBDII-to-bluetooth dongle for about $11 and a $5 phone app called Torque, then you can read and clear codes from your android phone. Plus see live engine data, which is neat. I think iOS has wifi equivalents. For me it adds a ton of peace of mind when I can read a code as soon as it pops up.

To go with the other reply from the Ross-Tech (worker?/user?/employee?) you can use it for that but there's a delay in the reading from a half second to a full second. It's not really all that noticeable unless you're kind of looking for the delay, but I think you'd be much happier with a boost pod.

Edit: also, if you're jailbroken you can use the bluetooth version of the transmitter but if you aren't jailbroken then you have to use the wifi version. Now I've not used the wifi, so I can't speak for how it performs, but I'd imagine that it would actually be better than bluetooth because of the latency (delay) associated with bluetooth as opposed to wifi.

Get a piece of plastic (or a knife, with caution), stick it in a crevice, and just pry it off carefully. They pop off easily. These things are pretty useful.

Just buy a set of automotive gap gauges.

They should cost about $5. You want metric gauges that have come a spacing of 0.05mm and include a 0.5mm gap.

I prefer the flat blade style.

BTW these are better then buying a fencing gauge since you can test how good your gap is. I typically fence with points that trigger at 0.35mm.

Remember that the spec on an epee point is that it must not trigger at 0.5mm +/- 0.05mm so you need to actual set your points not to trigger at 0.45mm to be safe.

I just donated a decent amount of money to my local church for you. That was much appreciated since they were trying to raise money in order to buy a magnetic tray for the daily mass prayer. Apparently they are extremely expensive.

I even gave them a link for a decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Titan-TIT11061-Mini-Magnetic-Tray/dp/B000HYL20G

They promise they will all pray for you although they are doubtful about a full recovery.

Take care!

Yes, get a kit from Amazon (KINGLAKE Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 4Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) or wrap a flat head screw driver with electrical tape. Start from the front clip on the left and work you way towards the back. The right side also has a front clip near the windshield and you have to work your way from back to front.

Also- get 3M clear auto tape to put under the mount feet(3M Clear Scotchgard Paint Protector Vinyl Wrap .5" Wide Tape Roll (.5" x 48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KF647X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) to prevent scratching the paint.

I want to say I used a 3/8”bit to drill through the roof gutters. Bought new bits so they were very sharp.

I bought this;

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it with the torque app. It's awesome! Is there something similar for iphone? If not, go get a used Android phone off a friend.