Reddit mentions: The best automotive top coats

Unfortunately, for some reason, the third hose is included in the airbox microfiche, not the crankcase one or whatever one the oil return tank is located in. Found this out when I was repairing mine. Check it out. It connects on top of the large rear carb boot (#6, sorry, not the airbox. Technically called the outlet tube :P ) with a little plastic L piece.

Parts 11, 16, and 17 is what connects to the oil return tank.

I would use something higher heat resistant. Air duct material is usually only rated for about 180° degrees Fahrenheit radiant heat. This and related material is rated for 2000° F radiant, and like 400° F direct contact I believe.

They also have a black spray on coating. This would look perfect I imagine. Give it a couple coats, and I'm sure it'll protect it just as well.

DEI stuff is sold in O'reilly's, Pep Boys, etc. if you can't wait and don't mind paying a couple bucks more than Amazon Prime.

Any tape or sealant, make sure the oil return tank is SUPER clean. Any residual oil (oil in plastic even) can make adhesives not want to stay attached.

Thanks to discovering this sub a short while ago (it must have been u/victrhugochavez who posted the link in some of the other lifting-related subs I lurk in), I have managed to assemble a small, but perfectly formed home gym in a space of about a month.

As I haven’t got the room in the house for all the kit (nor would I want to noise pollute the living space, given that I do drop the weight on occasion), I have opted to set out in the small patio area, strategically taking over the space that was previously occupied by a children’s trampoline, before my wife made a move to put some garden furniture in :)

The equipment list is short (but sweet), reflecting the training I do (I’ve competed in a couple of powerlifting meets, but have been doubling with some weightlifting assistance recently):

• Ivanko OB-20KG weightlifting bar (acquired through eBay and restored over Christmas from a lot of surface rust and general mistreatment—thanks to u/dontwantnone09 for his post here)
  
• Ivanko CO-2.5KG competition collars (as above, treated with Hammerite Kurust and then repainted with Hammerite Hammered Silver)
  
• Rogue SML-3 squat stand with Matador dip attachment (not seen in the picture) and two sets of weight holders. The inside of all parts was treated with Comma anti-rust wax seal and the all unused holes were capped with Heyco DP-625 15.9mm dome plug. Top of the uprights were closed off with some compatible square tube inserts.
  
• 190 kg worth of Bison black bumper plates from Wolferson Fitness (2x25, 4x20, 2x15, 2x10, 2x5)
  
• [Wolferson Fitness flat bench] (http://wolverson-fitness.co.uk/products/flat-fixed-bench?variant=14450677447)(rated to 400 kg)
  
• Flooring is three sheets of external WBP plywood (18+4+18mm) treated with Ronseal decking protector and sealed with white silicone sealant (which you see splattered all over the place in the pictures, since then cleaned). Rubber mats are a mix of 0.5x0.5m and 0.5x1m gym flooring from Origin Fitness.
  
  The planned additions are:
  
  
• Monster Lite safeties for SML-3 stand ordered from Rogue Europe and should be arriving early next week.
  
• A roll of medium density chipfoam to even level the flooring and dampen the noise a bit more.
  
• A lean-to wall canopy to enable training in all weather conditions.
  
  All-in cost for all of the above was approximately £1,500, so this is not about saving money, it’s about training when and how I want to, without having to deal with the idiocy of most commercial gyms (quarter “squatting”, curling in the squat rack, and pumping bis for the girls seven days a week).
  
  Bonus video of yesterday’s BW front squats (after 20 reps of back squats and 40 reps of bench presses).

I'm still organizing it, but my "kit" includes:

• DSLR Camera, prime lenses, camera bag
  
  
• Wooden yard stick (Scale bar and setting depth of field)
  
  
• IR remote control for camera (more steady camera triggering)
  
  
• Tripod on casters for faster shot setups
  
  
• Athlete's foot spray ($1 each at the dollar store)
  
  
• Developer's spray / Dulling spray
  
  
• temporary/removable rubberized paint (basecoat before spraying perm. paint) example
  
  
• Multi-colored textured spray paint Example
  
  
• Powder duster for applying inexpensive dust to objects. I haven't perfected this process. It's messy and the powder can change appearance between camera shots and spoil your entire photoshoot. I'd still like to figure out a better way because flour, baking soda, baby powder, and other dusty substances are far cheaper than spraypaint and athlete's foot spray.
  
  
• retractable kabuki brush for applying powder. I'm still experimenting with this, but it's a standard item included with the NextEngine 3D Scanner and they recommend applying talc powder to a lanolin base.
  
  
• Smart phone with lightmeter app, depth-of-field calculator app
  
  
• "Muslin" quick-clamps to drape a bedsheet behind object to diffuse lighting
  
  
• log book for optimal camera settings (dry erase board is faster for me)
  
  
• dry erase board for snapping a pic of my settings
  
  
• stickers for registration marks. I have only tried ordinary circular stickers without the computer generated encoded targets and have so far been disappointed with the results.
  
  There's probably more, but that's all I can think of for now.
  
  FUTURE ITEMS:
  
  
• $10 Lazy susan turntable from Ikea
  
  
• CNC controlled camera gantry for automated image capturing
  
  
• Field monitor for easier camera focusing. It's much harder on the small camera display.
  
  
• WiFi enabled camera or a WiFi enabled SD memory card
  
  
• A light tent - preferably with an entire setup with variable LED lighting from reddit user /u/Iontrades_
  
  https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iontrades/lite-studio-all-in-one-photo-studio-and-3d-scanner
  
  
• Green screen backdrop for experimenting with the automask feature in 3DF Zephyr software. I may also experiment with other backdrop colors, threadcounts, and thicknesses to optimize contrast (between the workpiece and backdrop) and optimize lighting.
  
  
• Experimental mixture of white baby powder, black pepper, and acetone to make it stick together. I haven't tried this yet, but I'm hoping that the acetone would help it stick to the workpiece and quickly evaporate.

The wrap started black, too, but the paint really deepened the color.

Wrap

Paint

The wheels are both 16"x3.5" (Roland Sands Diesel), and the Coker tires are 16"x5.1". That's why the front tire looks so much "fatter" than stock. So far they've got just under 1000 miles on them. Street performance is great, and the ride is super comfortable. It took a little while to get used to turning, though; the wheels resist the turn a bit more than stock at first, but once you get started they really want to keep going.

Here's my reddit post from when I finished her last year, if you want to know more.

It’s not hard, just take your time with it and make it looks pretty. I used 1” wrap, I like the look of a tighter wrap though. And it claims to “increase performance” because your keeping more heat away from the engine, not sure if I buy that or not, I did it for cosmetic purposes tbh lol. I think it looks awesome, here’s a link for the stuff I used :)

Wrap-
Design Engineering 010107 Exhaust Heat Wrap, 1" x 50' Roll - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KoGjDb06KEJQT

High temp Silicone paint-
Design Engineering 010301 High-Temperature Silicone Coating Spray - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MY3ML8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LvGjDb07SXQKQ

I'm glad you like it, here's a part list for you:

• Planck top plate in grid layout, stainless steel
  
• Planck PCB
  
• Planck milled bottom in silver color
  
• Cherry MX Clear switches - I got them directly from OLKB but you can get them from other places, too
  
• SIP-sockets - I'd get the individually removed SIP sockets from Zeal
  
• White switch stickers
  
• Clear MX switch tops
  
• 62g springs
  
• Galaxy class keycap set
  
• White paracord with white heatshrink USB cable
  
• White PlastiDip - this is the rough-looking spray-on-rubber that I used to give the milled bottom some texture
  
  This list contains the parts for the original build, for an updated build I'd probably go with some 67g Zealios which have an overall nicer tactility than the Cherry MX Clears with 62g springs

Personally OP, I would have gone for a higher quality clear coat on top. The red is vivid and nice, but the texture on it looks less than wonderful. I would have used Duplicolor Gloss spray paint from experience.

It's almost impossible to remove a sticker after it's been sprayed with clearcoat from a small spraypaint can like this that can easily be carried in a backpack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407NK6A/?tag=car-bibles-20

The same for sharpie. Can't ever wipe it away.

Lets hope no one ever does this...

It would be a tragedy...

I did a base black coating first since the metallizers are supposed to be used on top of coated surfaces. I used this particular color: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kMipybMQK4V7D

I also added the armorall tire shine on top of the plastidipped wheels. Someone on the camaro6 forums recommended it to help increase the life of the coating and ease cleaning.

I didn't take the wheels off the car because I didn't have a good pinch weld jack support....I didn't even take off the lug nuts since we can't rotate the wheels anyway. For protecting my brakes from overspray I cut strips from a plastic painting sheet.

I'm actually going to give it another try I peeled all that dip off..

and ordered some of the graphite pearl metalizer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYENX1U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you do a couple layers of black plasti dip, and then a couple layers of this it will give you a nice glossy dark gunmetal finish, watch some youtube vids on it they are helpful

I will be doing this to the grill, side trim and rims when I return from vacation.

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

• Step 1: Wet sand using 1000-2000 grit sand paper
  
• Step 2: Apply Blue Magic Metal Polish (or similar)
  
• Step 3: Apply several light coats of clear paint
  
  Notes:
  
  
• Step 1 is optional if the surface is in good condition (but will require more work in step 2)
  
• Step 2 will go a lot faster if you use a dremel / drill / grinder with a polishing wheel
  
• Step 3 is optional if you don't mind repolishing at a later date
  
• All the products should be available at your local auto parts store (Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
  
  Links:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixrlPYcRvjM
  
• http://www.amazon.com/3M-03023-Imperial-Wetordry-Sandpaper/dp/B005RN0ISY
  
• http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCL0125-Clear-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407NK6A
  

Thanks for the info!

Did you get the 6 with 2 glossifier cans?

https://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Dip-Rim-Kit-Glossifier/dp/B06Y279N4G/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=plasti+dip&qid=1572216026&sr=8-2

A smaller amount. Stuff is probably thicker than what comes out of a can. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0093BXB6M/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1408422844&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Is this okay? I think 6 cans should do it because I have some trim pieces I want to do as well as my grille.

Odd, but either automotive or urethane should work, like this duplicolor acrylic laquer

Plasti dipped the stock rims. I like it.

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-6PK-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B00E975MPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395953147&sr=8-4&keywords=plastidip

Wrap with cord them give them a Plastidip.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11602-6-075815116024-Plasti-Dip/dp/B000ZN1T16/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=Plastidip&qid=1556840061&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Comes in a spray as well.

Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Performix-11219-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B008PO635Y/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409878311&sr=8-6&keywords=plasti+dip

Amazon. This is the exact kind I used.

Nobody seems to be reading this thread, but I wonder if this spray would work on my coolant tank: https://www.amazon.com/010301-Black-High-Temperature-Silicone-Coating/dp/B000MY3ML8/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1483322173&sr=1-8&keywords=exhaust+wrap

Here is the mobile version of your link

Plasti-dip.

Performix 075815116024 Yellow Plasti Dip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZN1T16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TS-Pyb07KFTT7

Like this one!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZN1T16/sr=8-11/qid=1370570059/

There ya go. Now see the picture on the can? Do the opposite of that. Now you can make heavy-duty vise grips, tiny little pliers, and all sorts of other tools that are impossible to find for pennies on the dollar. One can should be a lifetime supply. It will most likely dry up before I can use half of it.

sorry to be a pest one last question, is this the metalizer you used? https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11287-Graphite-Metalizer-Plasti/dp/B00PYENX1U/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1500504533&sr=8-12&keywords=plasti+dip

> I saw "Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0" on amazon. Is that what you bought?

M21 will stain or damage black plastic or trim.
I think the person was talking about https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G36516-Paint-Protectant-oz/dp/B00P9OEZR6

This is it.


Once again, I didn't actually test it so YMMV. I also tried this for waterproofing shot glasses but it was too thin to plug any holes and it smelled like shit.

The color of the blue is blaze blue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008PO635Y?pc_redir=1411127623&robot_redir=1

Came out a lot different on the case.

Al to of damage to the layer happened during the tape and newspaper removal.