Reddit mentions: The best automotive touchup paint

The easiest thing to do is get some touch-up paint from somewhere like Automotive Touchup and fill it in. If you're really ambitious, you can fold a piece of sandpaper (800 - 1000 grit) and lightly sand the rust (be careful not to scratch the surrounding paint -- you ONLY want to sand inside the chip). You won't get all the rust off, but it'll ensure the paint adheres. That step is optional, so don't worry if you can't do it. Next, make sure you clean the surface good with rubbing alcohol or prep solvent before applying paint. I would also recommend getting a more precise applicator to make the job easier. You can also chip off the reaming piece of paint that is raised and fill that in.

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If the chip is deep (which this one looks like it is), then you can apply multiple coats. Just make sure you let the paint dry between coats (the paint should have instructions for how long that'll take). It's not going to look perfect, but it won't be rusty anymore.

​

And finally, you can get some clearcoat to ensure the touch up is shiny like the rest of the car. For your context, most cars are painted in what's called base coat/clear coat. Meaning there's two layers of paint: (1) a bottom layer which is the color -- in this case, the grey (this drys in a matte finish); and, (2) a top layer of clear paint which makes the car shine (this, obviously, dries shiny). The color touch up you get is the base coat and will dry matte, so if you want to match the car's finish, you'll also need the clear.

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Hope this helps!

This guy is a little eccentric, but his videos are really helpful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMhKGb_Duzs

In that video, the crank has much damage and the problem is diagnosable before he ever starts taking things apart.

On mine, I didn't find any damage on the crank. The key had just the slightest hint of wear on one side. The new key went into the crank very tightly.

http://i.imgur.com/3yW8C5v.jpg

There's my key. Not a very good pic, but you can a fuzzy line that runs down the length of it. If you look at that really close, you can see that the plating on the key is slightly worn through showing a darker colored metal underneath. I imagine that is pretty normal for a 100,000 mile engine of any kind.

Also in that pic is the oil seal remover tool that I used on the crank. I tried other more common tools and methods, but everything I tried seemed like it was really risky about damaging the crank right at the sealing surface. That seal puller was perfect. It still took some yanking to get the seal out, but it didn't damage the crank.

Also, be sure you know that the key is supposed to go in one certain way, and SNC crank failures might be caused by people putting the key in backwards which means the pulley cannot seat all the way down when you torque the bolt. The rounded corner (upper left in that pic) goes towards the center and rear of crank. If you feel inside the keyway in the crank, the rear corner of the slot is rounded - like the slot was cut with a disk shaped tool. So the corresponding key is rounded so that they will interface properly.

And be sure to torque the bolt properly. The Flyin' Miata tool is really helpful for holding the crank while you torque the bolt. Be sure your Torque Wrench will do the torque (80lb-ft if I recall). The cheap torque wrenches stop at like 75lb-ft. If you have the clicky kind, especially if you buy a clicky one to do this job, be sure to exercise it before you use for this job. You want to get this one right.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-tool-kit-short-nose.html

While you are in there, doing the cam seals is super easy. You don't need to use a seal puller. You can just remove the front cam bearing caps and slide the seal out. If you to that, be sure to get the right kind of sealant for those. They can leak. In this link someone mentions using Hylomar Flange Sealant to seal the cam bearing caps. This is not the same as silicon gasket sealer. Its much thinner. Basically at those caps, there is a small area where there is no gasket/cannot be a gasket, and the "sealing" is supposed to be accomplised by two perfectly flat machined surfaces mating and being torque together tightly... but in practice no surface is perfectly flat, so you need something very very thin to seal it. I think most parts store stock this.

If you still have the original radiator, you should plan to do that at the same time. We noticed ours was getting old and turning brown by we tried to do the job without replacing it, and as soon as we put it back together the radiator started leaking. It probably cracked in the process of removing it or installing it because it was so brittle from age.

We also flushed out coolant system while we had the radiator out. You have to remove the thermostat and put the housing back on to get a really good flush, but you can hook a garden hose up to the upper radiator hose and stick the lower hose into a 5 gallon bucket and flush the coolant passages out really well.

I needed one of these wrenches in a couple of spots (both of them involved in loosening the fan belts (one alternator bolt, one power steering pump bolt).

http://drcolorchip.com/ For the rock chips.

For prevention, yes 3M Clear Bra would be a good choice.

However, good news! 3M released a new product (paint defender) recently, that works like the clear bra, but is spray on, and a fraction of the cost.

I have not seen any reviews on it yet, but if I didn't recently get a clear bra installed on my new car, you can bet I would have given this a try...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368664866&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=3m+paint+defense

Sooo, I would go over it with the Dr. Color Chip kit, fix the paint chips to the best of your ability, and then try out the 3M Paint Defender for future prevention...

As for the Clear Bra, you get mixed reviews yes, but I have had one installed for about 3 weeks now, and I can say it has been tremendous. A lot of the negative reviews come from people who fail to take care of the clear bra or have some off-brand material installed... In short, if you don't maintain it, yes, it will turn into a brown pile of shit in a few years. But if you do maintain it, there is nothing to worry about. Also, from certain angles you can see portions of the lines of the clear bra on the hood, but it's really no big deal. Here is a super close up of my hood, and notice the line (barley observable): http://i.imgur.com/e0PywKa.jpg Here is a side shot (the clear bra goes about half way up the fender as well- you can't notice it at all here): http://i.imgur.com/78fHEoj.jpg

Also, I can tell you that this has already saved the front portion of my car from what would've been at least 3 very heavy rock chips.

Edit: I just noticed the 3M Paint Defender kit is sold out and listed as an Amazon exclusive... it must be doing pretty well.

Okay, I'll try to get this done on mobile.

Headlights: heat them and pop them open. It's honestly a huge pain in the ass Lol. Mask off and paint the internal bezel to your preference, but at least leave the ribbed and textured parts silver to ensure you still get good beams out of your lights. (The corner turn lens is also in there, see below for the tinting process.) Buy some butyl rubber ribbon and use that to heat and reseal your lights. I'll post links to the process I followed if I can dig them up on my PC. it's a little labor intensive, but the unique look is worth it.

Taillights and front corner turn signals: follow the process for applying VHT Nightshade spray on tint. I think mine are 3 or 4 coats and then clear coat. The clear reverse lights were masked for the tint and unmasked for the clear. You can then sand and buff them to whatever level of gloss you want. Mine were left slightly matted.

Lift/shocks/wheels/tires: it's an RC 2" bb with load levelers I got from Kolak on Jeep forums. Wheels are Discount tire MB TKOs and tires are 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs.

It's got a pinchweld mod to clear the tires.

If you want deeper info say the word and I'll give you a deeper write up when I'm on a PC.

EDIT for links

Short of rolling the car into the hardware store to scan, for best results I'd suggest...

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Lacquer-Touch-up-Paint-Metallic/dp/B07CH33FDS
Buy something like this. Spread some on a piece of primered scrap steel, have your local paint/hardware store scan that with their fancy color scan tool.

The resulting paint likely won't have the same veneer as the car, since most people don't clear-coat a house. Some metallic elements also might not show up as well, but the hue should be pretty close

Its a good looking color. Hope your paint project comes or looking just as good as the car.

Yup! One of the reasons why we got a Toyota. It's a Toyota Corolla Le edition. Everything else is in tip-top condition except that! The scratch is relatively small actually. It seemed a lot bigger when I looked at it yesterday, but then anger always seem to amplify things.. It's definitely deep. I ran my fingernail lightly through it and it felt rough under my nails (which I read is one way of telling whether it's deep or not)

The touch up paint I got is actually from Toyota, so hopefully it'll match at least as close as possible. Good reviews for the touch up paint too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TNNRYZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's slate metallic (I checked the color code on my car).

I.. am an absolutely greenhorn. My only experience comes from the various youtube videos and how-tos that I read yesterday for a couple of hours... I might skip the sandpaper, or at least get my BIL to help me out with that part if he can. I think he has a bit of experience in it. Good point about the magnifying glass! I think I have one in my office that I can borrow for a bit. I figured the scratch is small enough and at a not so obvious place that if I do a hack job, it hopefully wouldn't be too obvious. At this point, I mostly just want to make sure it doesn't rust.

Unfortunately there's no magic to it. Carefully sand away (2500-3000 grit) the previous poor touch up job (use the sandpaper wrapped around the credit card trick). Make sure you get rid of all the crappy prior job, then clean it up with isopropyl alcohol. Then start laying in the paint, then the clear coat, making sure you keep it as level as possible so you don't have a bubbled up bit of clear. Then if you have the time/patience you can wet sand and polish to really perfect it (that depends on the severity of the chip/scratch if it's worth it)

A tool like this, or this is incredible for touch up, since the brushes that come in most bottles are too big to be useful. This video shows him using that tool, and how useful it is. I can't recommend it enough.

Sure. This is what it looks like:
https://www.reddit.com/r/XVcrosstrek/comments/64u476/touchup_paint/dg57tnx/

You can get it on Amazon too, just make sure to choose the right color:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-J361SFJ000-Touch-Up-Metallic/dp/B00PV6PVTI/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1494958301&sr=8-1&keywords=subaru+touch+up+paint&refinements=p_85%3A1

It comes with a sanding tip to prepare the surface (I found that adding a little WD-40 helps to scrape off the rust), paint + paint brush, and a clearcoat + brush. Great little all-in-one kit with OK results.

Okay---

Stripping started off with a plastic drill attachment paint stripper like this one here.

I then sanded the parts I couldn't reach with the attachment by hand as best I could. This was awful. My forearm hasn't seen that much action since I was 13.

After that, I applied tape to block the holes, and cleaned it with an alcohol based cleaner to remove any excess oils, while wearing rubber gloves.

Then came the Primer, which was grey. No real choice in that, it was just what I had on hand. I think I went through about 2 cans of this, doing 3 complete coats on 3 different days.

Green was next - Metal Specks for the base. Went through 3 cans of this, 3 coats, 3 days.

At this point it had to wait to dry about 4 days, as weather was terrible. In retrospect, I should have waited a month or until the summer had started. I then covered most of the bike with news paper, except for the logos and speed stripes. For the logo I used a piece of plastic from one of the kids toys where you write with a pen, and then lift the plastic sheet up to erase it. I don't know what they are called.

After applying 2 coats of silver metallic paint (can't remember the brand), I left it for a few days.

I then removed the covering, and started clear coating it. Again, and again, and again. I was using an acrylic enamel. I think I went through like 3-4 cans.

Again, should have let it dry more before assembling, but I really wanted to ride. The bike cost me $130 to buy, so it was a small investment, for what was a fun project. I probably put about 500 miles on it this summer.

For next time, I will wait till the peak summer months, find a better stencil method, and not be so damn impatient.

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

I love carpet dyeing. It's a great way to make a big difference on a car for not a lot of $. I like to remove any seats first to get full access to the carpet. Then thoroughly vacuum using a brush to agitate the carpet so any stubborn dirt or hair comes out. Clean the carpet (I use McKee's 37 Carpet Extractor Pre-Treatment, but any quality carpet cleaner will work) with a cleaner and brush before vacuuming again. Let the carpet dry in the sun before using a fabric dye. I use this stuff since I can buy it locally. Take your time and you'll have your carpet looking like new after a single day. p.s. You need a lot more cans than you think. I used about 15 cans on the interior of this van. For your Supra, I would order 8-10.

• Before After
  
• Before After
  
• Before After

Looks good. Other people have posted that getting a new Aero wheel from a service center is only $200, but this type of repair is a nice option for people that aren't close to one. Plus I'm sure theres labor and stuff on top of the $200.

This touch-up pen is a great match for minor damage.

Yes just that small chip. Very small and I can only notice it from like a yard away. I figure I can fix it or blend it with something like this:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DP66NML/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_aChVDbH218XWM

Thanks for the advice.

Edit: I might check color codes and get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LPMPD4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bFhVDb8MFP7SS

Hopefully someone here has experience or recommendations

I mean, you technically could, but you’re likely not going to get good results. If the colour is even slightly different to the rest of the paint, then it won’t blend and you’ll have a visible spray mark on the grill. Avoid wiping overspray as well, that would just smear the paint around and could make things worse. You could possibly put tape around the scratch as thoroughly as you possibly can, and then spray with the tape protecting everything other than the scratch.

I’d personally recommend the dupli colour paint pen method, and I have a solution for helping you find the right colour. All you need to do is find all the spray can paints that dupli-colour makes, and find one with a lid that matches the colour you need. Once you find a paint that will work, read the label for the paint name, and then go find that paint in the pen version. Dupli-colour paints are basically just replica paints for all the automotive manufacturers out there, so I can 100% guarantee they would have a paint pen you could use. You’ll likely need to bring your speaker with you to the store so that you can compare the grill colour to the lids of the spray cans. Hope that makes sense 👍🏼.


Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI

Here you go

I feel your pain. Bought a P01 from Cajun, had them do all the work i wanted done, waited what seemed like forever for it. First day I had it, I was adjusting and getting frustrated with the new holster I bought for it and inadvertently put the wrong screws into the belt clip. Holster feels comfortable so I shove the pistol in and hear the most sickening scraping sound. Right down to bare metal. I tried this stuff:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE68ESI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm no painter, and i couldn’t make it look worth a damn, but the color is a pretty good match. Good luck.

I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.

• Pressure Washer
  
• Simple Green Bike Cleaner/Degreaser
  
• Mr. Pink Super Suds
  
• Aluminum Grunge Brush
  
• Short Handle Body Brush
  
• Large Wheel Brush
  
• Upholstery Detailing Brush (works great on Sidewalls)
  
• Maxima Chain Care kit

I typically use whatever I have on my shelf from other projects... I recently rebuilt a motorcycle and have quite a bit of This Stuff laying around and have been really happy with it. Its pretty durable stuff.

Cant speak for the pedals because i'm not very rough on my stuff, but its still holding up well on my frame after a year of riding so its as good as anything by my book.

If that is all the actual rust, I dealt with rust spots about that size on my NB. I first used a sanding pen to sand the rust down. Then I applied some OEM Touchup paint. Last thing, I used Langka blob eliminator to form it to the rest of the paint. You can't tell its been touched up from about 10 feet away, any closer than that and you can tell. Better than leaving rust to sit. Here are links for all of those things.

Sanding Pen
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN8H52/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Blob Eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074BMB0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro Brush (Helps with touchup, sometimes)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6D0207/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The best part about the blob eliminator, if you mess it up you can use it to completely remove any touchup paint, and not damage the OEM Paint. The stuff is magical for small touchup spots, work on it until you are happy with the results. Will be much cheaper than 450$

>Hey guys,
>
>I’ve been trying to find a good cover up paint for my MacBook Pro. It has the light aluminum silver color. I’ve tried several automotive touch up paints with no luck.
>
>The ones that I tried all ended up being a darker shade of silver. These are the ones I tried:
>
>Dupli-Color ACC0410 Metallic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66D1S?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
>
>Dupli-Color ANS0607 Brilliant... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE68CCQ?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
>
>SuperATV Touch Up Paint Pen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DWG9XRG?ref=ppx\_pop\_mob\_ap\_share
>
>As mentioned earlier, these ones ended up being too dark silver.
>
>If anyone could provide me with some recommendations it would be appreciated. I would much rather go with a touch up pen type of paint.

My apologies. I figured that given I used automotive touch up paint it would be a good idea to ask people who've had experience with them.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.

I used SEM Trim Black with great results. I used an adhesion promoter first. 1+ year on the flare looks the same as the day I painted it.

The problem with bed liner is that it's textured - and you have to strip/sand it all of if you end up not liking the textured look. But it's great if you like the look!

there's black porcelain enamel, not sure about dark grey for an exact match but may need to look into touch up paints for cars, bigger variety there. I was actually looking for dark grey varieties for my car recently, may be a good way to touch up the scuffs here since the material seems similar but I'm not an expert. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

Its for Ford, but it works great with the aero wheels and is almost indistinguishable up close.

Touch Paint
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3

1. Used 800, 1000, 1500 Sandpaper to sand down the rims as much as I can to be less noticeable.
   
   
2. Touch up paint with 3 base coat and clear coat to finish it up.
   
   Edit: watched a few YouTube videos of Tesla Curb Rash repairs and find the one that best fit for you. I watched this guy for pointers
   
   
   https://youtu.be/gQGrX3-MwZA

I've used VHT Nightshades on my tail lights before, then putting a few coats of clear on top of that, then wet-sanding and polishing. Turned out pretty darn good. This might be a similar application if you are willing to experiment. You can find them cheaper at local Auto part stores.

Repeat after me: WD40 is not a lubricant.

Use a chain cleaner and wax like Maxima's offerings. Use as instructed, do it every 500 miles on the dot.

If it's raining, after your ride hose off your bike with a garden hose to get abrasives off the paint and out of the chain, your hose water is much cleaner than rain water and road grime. This will make it less intensive or even unnecessary to clean your bike after a rainfall.

Also, detailers don't like doing bikes. The detailers I've hired that said they'll do bikes are generally rank amateurs and shouldn't be allowed near anyone's bike. Bikes have nooks and crannies unlike those on a car, they have a bunch of parts exposed, they take a lot of time. They take so much time that the detailer has trouble getting enough out of the job to justify.

Get yourself a garden sprayer, a bucket, a pack of microfiber cloths, and a big old jug of auto-soap with wax in it. Clean that noise yourself. If you have an air compressor dry the bike using that as it'll prevent scrating.

Then, get a jug of carnauba wax and clean the shiny bits of your bike. Don't bother applying to matte or powder-coated parts.

/r/AutoDetailing, specifically posts related to motorcycles.

As far as I know, there are 3 methods.

First, you can use the sticker window tint and hope you can get the creases out. It seems like a long-shot so I avoided it.

Second, you can possibly tint the plastic by dipping it in warm fabric dye. Some people have said that it doesn't work, others have said that it warped their plastic. So I avoided that too.

Lastly, you can use a spray paint called Nightshades. It is used to tint taillights on cars, but people have used it for helmets and other plastics before. I just tested it out on some spare plastic tonight, and it looks like it should work. You just have to be really careful about scratches and dust as they will magnify in the tint.

TL;DR Use the spray-on tint Nightshades (Amazon).

Assuming aero wheels, as mentioned above, dupli-color is a great match and will hide then rash nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

If you want to completely restore, new aero rims are $200 each. You can order through your service center.

My 2013 Genesis Coupe has significant chips in the paint. I'd recommend getting a clear bra, or something to protect it.

I just bought the 3M Paint Defender System to hopefully stop further damage.

I wonder which one of these products (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3) would work well with the stock performance rims on the m3. I have some curb-rash going on that I would like to patch up like this.

I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS

Get this kit and follow the directions, it works really well :) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey is an incredibly close match to the wheel color. I would highly recommend you pick up some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the rash and paint over the marks.

This will probably happen again, so it will be nice to have an in-house solution. If you want tutorials, just search “dupli-color” in the various Tesla reddit communities.

I love you so much for this idea right now. buying a carousel as we speak.

EDIT: For anyone that actually wants to buy one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

His forehead.

Just kidding, I don't endorse any violence. Especially since I scratched my own too.

I read that this touch up paint is a good match

No.

You need a Grunge Brush and some degreaser and chain wax. A rear stand will make the entire process much easier - I'd recommend getting a Pitbull since unlike calibrated tools like a torque wrench - it's a one time purchase.

An automated system is missing the point, when you're cleaning your chain is also the time to check the chain tension, sprocket wear, clean off the chain guard, see if your front sprocket cover is bogged up with debris, etc

This will fix you up , perfect match.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Depending on how much rash there is, other users use this touch up pen to simply recolor the bare metal, as it's a near perfect match for the original rim color.

Use SEM trim paint. It's extremely easy to use and gives an OEM matte finish.
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

I see this one recommended often for the aero wheels and can confirm, It’s a really good match.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Nope. Just get this ... Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Boom! Saved a marriage.

I use 2 of these. They arent portable but I always paint at my desk

https://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481692190&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+organizer

It fits vallejo and citadel and im sure testors since thats who makes it.

I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Literally my post from a few days ago lol. I got this per a Redditer’s recommendation.

For those, like me, who don't build plastic models:

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/

Seems like it’s the same one.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nc61CbD35T88N

No need to sand down to bare metal if the paint isn't pealing. Just take a red scotchbrite pad and scuff them up real good so the new paint will bite and get good adhesion. Wipe them down with some wax and grease remover, then mask them up to keep over-spray from getting everywhere and shoot some SEM trim paint on them.

VHT Nightshades works pretty well so long as you take your time and do it properly. That said folks I know who've done it have had to upgrade their taillight bulbs after because they went so dark it was dangerous, you could hardly see the lights illuminating during the day.

i just ordered myself one of these

http://www.amazon.com/MM-Empty-Paint-Storage-System/dp/B000BUXYB6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375157727&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+station

it should be arriving tomorrow, but for $15 its a bargain i must say

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468273398&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=vht+nightsahde

if you really wanna ;)

This stuff has worked well for me

If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.

I got the maxima chain cleaning kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-70-749203-3PK-Chain-Ultimate-Aerosol/dp/B00FFZU25S/ref=asc_df_B00FFZU25S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7069594860282740359&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013883&hvtargid=pla-406164525353&psc=1

Put the cleaner on, let it sit for a minute, scrub it lightly with 3 sided brush then rinse it off. Then put the chain wax on. Seems to work well, the wax solidifies a bit to keep it from being slung off the chain everywhere and the cleaner takes all the road grime off the chain.

While I dont condone the look, this is a spray on lens tint that still allows light to pass through. It will reduce light output slightly, but not at a dangerous level.

I picked up a Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey for Ford at a local auto store for $15 and it's almost an exact match.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

I use Nite-Shades spray tint:

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1344965000&sr=8-3&keywords=nite+shades


I pulled the tail lights out, masked off everything but the reverse lights and applied a couple coats. did the same thing with the wing mirrors only I didn't need to mask them as they come out completely with nothing extra to worry about spraying.

This is what I see recommended on this sub. I ended up buying the Dupli color stick and some sand paper too. Have yet to find the time to do it.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJy6CbD6KH8DM

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537665648&sr=8-1&keywords=SEM+Trim+Black

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Tape off and paper anything you don't want to be black. Scuff with a grey scuff pad and spray it. If it's cracking or pitted you may need to go after it with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper until it's smooth. Prep with a degreaser or IPA before you spray it.

Do a search. This is not difficult.

ttps://smile.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/product-reviews/B00HE66OK8/

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8

I don't know what the heck I looked at. Anyways, is this the kit you're talking about: http://www.amazon.com/3M-90100-Paint-Defender-System/dp/B00CCOBOI4

http://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O

$7 a can

I've used VHT's Night Shade previously. Basic rattle-can application.

VHT Nite-shade
https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6
It's a spray on tiny that is commonly used to tint tailights. 99% of the time it's done extremely poorly. It is possible he has a vinyl tint sheet over the tail lights but I'd bet its Nite-Shade.

This is a common one used by Model 3 owners:

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8/

I don't think it's exact but fairly close.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.

Here you go: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hylomar Blue

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85249-Hylomar-Universal-Dressing/dp/B0018PSATY

It's a product called VHT Nightshades its transparent paint if done correctly.



VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cGjQDb8187N92

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505082037&sr=8-1&keywords=sem+trim+black

VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Cp0XDb75VZ842

They may be custom and not just tinted. But I think masking off the circles and using [NightShades](VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9tbVDbD97SR29) would get a similar effect.

I use this, from Amazon. Everything you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-70-749203-3PK-Chain-Ultimate-Aerosol/dp/B00FFZU25S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482030987&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+wax

This is the one I saw someone post a few days ago.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-IWCbR0XGE43

Just ordered one earlier today.

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI

tons of touch up pens and touch up paint out there.

For most affordable, I've heard this is a very close color match to the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is an exact match to black aero, from what I’m told.

Its spray tint : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPCRS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419189662&sr=8-1 you can find it at your local autozone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFZU25S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013R620LU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My parking garage is extremely tight and today I lightly tapped a concrete wall with my front bumper. I thought I barely hit it, but I was horrified to discover it still gouged my paint.

Please tell me this is an easy fix. This is absolutely heartbreaking since I’ve only had the car for a month.

Here is the damage. Dodge Challenger if that helps. https://imgur.com/a/pOAYDfR

Do I just need something like this?

Mopar Lacquer Touch-up Paint (Prep+Paint+Clear) (F8 Green Metallic) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CH33FDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTXmDbR81KA0X

Also for piece of mind, the aero wheels themselves are only like $200-250. With new tpm sensors and install it costs a bit more, but the bottom line is the damage isn't bad.

If you want a cheap fix, the "Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. " is only $13 and allegedly will cover up some of that. Not sure how it looks if doing more than a small portion though.

I used this, with like 3 or 4 super light coats. I didn't want it to make them useless, I hate blacked out lights. I just wanted a little less orange.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6

i know little of acrilic but you could probably tint it with the paint people use to tint there tail lights. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP999-Nite-Shades-Cover-Translucent/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413900749&sr=8-3&keywords=tail+light+tint

or even use a regular window tint witch is made in veriety of shades and even colors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reports say you can sand down the afflicted area of the rims and use this to make the blemish disappear.

I can't remember if I saw it here or on Facebook but it happens frequently. Just happened to my car too. Some people have down an at home repair by sanding the damaged area with increasing grits then using this touch-up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

vht nightshade spray could work. with or without a clear coat it can be sanded/polished with good results. but it's very permanent and could ruin your visor..

I sanded until my thumb bled.

Then I hit it with high fill primer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKX16A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I sanded that down smooth through the thumb pain.

Then I hit it with the texture spray linked above.

Then I gave it a couple of coats of "Trim Black":
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM019O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The texture spray really hides a lot of the imperfections