Reddit mentions: The best automotive

We found 43,458 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 19,913 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More

  • [Compatible] Our automotive OBDII diagnostic engine reader works with all consumer automotive vehicles, cars & trucks in the USA that are model year 1996 or newer! Compatibility varies depending on vehicle country of location. See product description to check your vehicles computer compatibility based on your country of location. (NOT IPHONE / iOS COMPATIBLE)
  • [Simple To Use] Plug our OBD2 diagnostic scanner into your vehicles automotive OBD2 port; Pair diagnostic scan tool with your Android phone via Bluetooth; Download an app to use it with; Then connect & start scanning for live sensor data like a professional direct from your vehicles on board computer! (NOT IPHONE / iOS COMPATIBLE)
  • [Fix & Service Your Car For Less] Using our diagnostic code reader you can read, reset & clear your check engine error light fault codes with your Android phone (does not read ABS or SRS). Check and fix your emissions system readiness, know if you will pass emissions & smog test before you go with our diagnostic tool! (NOT IPHONE / iOS COMPATIBLE)
  • [Live Data] Monitor live real time live gauge data direct from your autos computer systen with our diagnostic trouble code reader such as O2 sensors, fuel pressure, Engine load & more; Freeze fram data; Map based sensor tracking plus so much more! Making it extremely easy to check up on the health of your vehicle just like the pros! Our automotive health tool will help you keep your gas or diesel vehicles running many miles longer!
  • [Guaranteed] Unlike other OBD2 car diagnostic scanners we guarantee ours will work on ALL OBDII protocols including J1850 which many have problems with! Works on both gas & diesel vehicles. Reads at faster speeds than most other OBDII wireless Bluetooth OBD 11 readers.
  • Our car trouble scanner works with all consumer cars, light trucks & other autos purchased in the USA model year 1996 & newer (gas OR diesel) including but not limited to Audi, Ford, GM, Chevy, Chrysler; Dodge, Jeep, Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Lincoln, Mercury, Mercedes, Nissan, BMW, VW, Porsche & More!
  • [Elm327 Compliant] If the app you wish to use states you will need an ELM327 compatible tool, our OBDII diagnostic programmer / reader tool will work with it! Our OBDII engine scan tool is fully compliant with the ELM327 programmer command set giving you access to numerous professional level programs to choose from!
  • [3rd Party App Required] A paid or free app is required to use our OBDII engine scan tool, we do not develop or sell these apps but have many to recommend such as: Piston, Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommd, OBD Auto Doctor plus so many more! compatibility in other countries, please see product description.
  • [2 Year Warranty] We proudly back our OBDII trouble code reader with a professional 2 year warranty against all manufacturing defects! Our friendly, USA based, professional support team provide top notch service and will help you make the most of your new OBD 2 scan tool!
Bafx Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read/Clear Your Check Engine Light & Much More
Height1 Inches
Length2.75 Inches
Number of items1
SizeFor Android Devices
Weight0.18 Pounds
Width1.5 Inches
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6. Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123

  • STAY CHARGED: Battery Tender battery chargers and maintainers provide a full charge to your powersport vehicle’s battery before switching to float mode to maintain proper voltage levels for safe, long-term storage
  • EXTEND BATTERY LIFE: Compatible with all 12V lead-acid, flooded, AGM, and gel cell batteries. Complete 4-step charging program (Initialization, Bulk Charge, Absorption Mode, Float Mode) allows for optimization of battery power, without overcharging or battery damage
  • INCLUDES: 12V, 750mA battery charger and battery maintainer with 12-foot output cord, fused-ring terminal harness for hard-to-reach batteries and alligator clip accessory cables, 5-year warranty, and lifetime customer support
  • SIMPLE & SAFE: Low maintenance, easy-to-use, universal battery charger is just 3.3 x 1.3 x 2.4 inches, 1 lb (charger only). Spark-proof circuitry ensures no-spark connections, and automatic reversed hook-up detection verifies correct connection
  • MONITOR POWER LEVELS: Two-color charge status LED light indicates the state of the charge and if the battery voltage drops too far under load, adaptive charging will resume full charger output power. Automatic charge cycle functionality switches to float mode after fully charging the battery
Battery Tender Junior Charger and Maintainer: Automatic 12V Powersports Battery Charger and Maintainer for Motorcycle, ATVs, and More - Smart 12 Volt, 750mA Battery Float Chargers - 021-0123
Height9 Inches
Length8 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2006
Size12V @ 750mA
Weight1.8 pounds
Width4 Inches
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20. Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro

  • Amazing Functions: Read diagnostic trouble codes and display their meaning, clear trouble codes, turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light), display current sensor data. This code reader helps to find out why your check engine light is on before visiting a mechanic - save money by fixing simple problems yourself!
  • Support Cars: Work with 1996 and newer gasoline vehicles (Not for diesel, hybrid and trucks with 24V voltage) that are OBD2 compliant including but not limited to Volkswagen, GM, Chevrolet, Honda, TOYOTA, Mazda, Ford, Dodge, Peugeot, Subaru, Citroen, BMW, Audi, Skoda, Subaru, Hyundai, Kia, Suzuki, Opel, Chyrysler, Benz, Porsche, Renault, Fiat, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Daihatsu, etc.
  • Compatible App and System: Work with Android cellphone and tablet. Recommend Apps are Torque Pro, Torque Lite (free), OBD Car Doctor (free), etc. on Google Play. Support Dr. Prius App for Toyota/Lexus hybrid
  • Support all OBDII protocols: J1850 PWM, J1850 VPW, ISO9141-2, ISO14230-4 (KWP2000), ISO15765-4 (CAN-BUS)
  • Warranty: 100% Money Back Guarantee; hassle free 1-year replacement warranty with friendly and professional customer service. Note: Bluetooth version works with Android only, not iPhone or iPad
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro
ColorBlue for Android
Height1.25984 Inches
Length1.88976 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJanuary 2018
SizeBluetooth for Android
Weight0.04 pounds
Width0.98425 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on automotive

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 707
Number of comments: 90
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 496
Number of comments: 98
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 326
Number of comments: 137
Relevant subreddits: 57
Total score: 253
Number of comments: 149
Relevant subreddits: 10
Total score: 181
Number of comments: 48
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 177
Number of comments: 109
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 173
Number of comments: 61
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 133
Number of comments: 72
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 106
Number of comments: 50
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 49
Number of comments: 49
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Automotive:

u/D1STURBED36 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Advice for first time MK buyer? i still have a few weeks before i fully decide/get the funds but so far im considering the ducky shine 5, coolermaster masterkeys pro l or a k series corsair..

k-series - quality issues, wary of "gaming" brands, and the keyboard i want that fulfills everything i want is ehh and over budget (k95 - nearly £200, budget is not strictly set but its about £120-150) while the other, lower cost k-series still seem to have quality issues and are missing various features (media/macro keys, etc). - and when compared to the below 2 keyboards (or at least the masterkeys) seems pretty inferior when quality is taken into account.

ducky shine 5 - seems really, really solid and is reasonably priced. but no software for rgb customization is kinda disappointing. although it does seem to have better LED's then others.

masterkeys pro l - seems similar to ducky in regards to quality, but has software. just in general seems really solid and pretty much ticks all my boxes.

features id like:

macro keys - not a huge dealbreaker, but i would like to have them. that being said, i have 12 atm (logitech g110) that are pretty much never used - but id like to use them. software for customizing keys never used as replacement for dedicated macros would also be acceptable

media keys - again, never used and a minor bonus and im not to fussed.

quality - id like to have the keyboard for a fair few years.

Full sized - im not completely against the idea of getting a smaller size, but it seems unnecessary for me.. full sized has been perfectly fine for me.

Customizability - for keycaps, etc.. I realize that the k-series use a non standard bottom row which makes replacing/getting new switches difficult..? atm this is a complete non factor and i have 0 plans to change anything.. but i guess standard and not some weird hard to find stuff would be good for future.

RGB - it seemed silly to me yesterday for this to be such an important thing but after seeing a razer chroma something in person.. I love it.

UK layout

If theres any other keyboards that i should consider looking at thats roughly my budget and fits the criteria, id really appreciate it - along with advice about the 3 mentioned boards - ATM im leaning towards the masterkeys.

Bonus question - i realize its a pretty personal thing, but it seems cherry MX reds are what id like the most..? I dont like the idea of blues potentially interfering with double tapping, but i have pretty much no experience. Does something like this really help in finding your preferred switch if its only 1 key? i tried typing on razor chroma (something) which i believe has razor greens and found it pretty lovely - at least compared to what i have now.

u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.


Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" -

Soldering Station $37 -

Solder Sucker $5 -

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 -

DSA Caps $35 -

Super Lube $5 -


I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.


I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.


I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!


If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/UboaNoticedYou · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

  1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.

  2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.

  3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.

    Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.

    Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.

    While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] ( This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.

    Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.

    Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!
u/DaegenLok · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!


  1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 -
  2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 -
  3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 -
  4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 -
  5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)

  6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 -
  7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 -
  8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5

  9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 -
  10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 -
  11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) -
  12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 -
  13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 -

    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
  14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 -
  15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 -

    Interior/Glass Cleaners
  16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 -
  17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 -

    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
  18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 -

    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
  19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 -
  20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 -
  21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 -
  22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 -
  23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 -
  24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
  25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. -

u/Fyrel · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)


Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.

Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!

Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!

Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.

The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.

The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)


A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:

Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.

Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.

CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.

Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.

Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.

u/azurekiwi · 2 pointsr/Vaping

> For batteries, I'm using some efest IMR 18650s, do you think a different battery would make a noticeable difference?

eFests and mechs do not go well together, that being said hopefully you have one of the 20 amp rated ones, but it's still likely a poor choice for a mechanical device. Before buying the mod or at the same time you should have bought at least two of these, which currently is the cheapest price out of the three known trustworthy vendors for authentic cells.

You should read more into mechanical mods if questions like this are ones you need to ask, not meaning to be rude. Using an ohms law calculator at 4.2v you're going over 1a of what hopefully is the rating of your battery (if you have the 12a then this is actually not safe) but your mod will be pulling less with voltage drop. You should be calculating for 4.2 though to give yourself some headroom for safety. Especially if you threw an efest into a mech. I apologize if I come off condescending, it's not my goal at all, it's just with mechanical mods the battery is possibly one of the most important things to know how many amps you have to work with and you should never use rewraps in a mech. There's other batteries with lower ratings people use but honestly, I don't see any reason to when the VTC5a exists, is available, and possibly the all around best battery for vaporizers in general. In regulated devices you can sacrifice that extra cdr for some more battery life but in this situation the CDR is going to be a major determining factor in building safely and knowing what is safe and isn't as you need this for ohms law calculation.

Use the 510 pin cap for now because the more safety involved currently the better. Also if you didn't already know make sure to religiously check your battery wraps for any nicks or tears. With your mod you do have the delrin insulation I believe, but honestly if there's a tear or any damage to the wrap just rewrap it to be safe, you really don't want a short to happen and I don't want to see you on the news.

If there's any other questions that you're hesitant to ask, you may as well, because I'd rather help clear some things up or show you areas in which to read more so you know how to use what you have as safe as possible, and with efest batteries it worries me that there may be some things you may have missed.

Tldr: order these and don't use the efests. 2 of them should be fine unless you plan on using it as a main device in which 4 may be a safer bet, but 2 should be fine. Plus you're still learning some things it seems to there's no reason to use a potentially risky rewrap with false ratings when something like that is so cheap, and performs so well.

edit: I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for my mech mods, they're copper but I want to say that works well for brass too. Theres videos on how to properly polish if you are unsure. You want to wash it off after you use that though so you prevent potential damage to your device by leaving some of it behind. Pick up battery wraps and insulators as well, you're going to need these if you vape regardless and with mechanical mods you should have some ready to go as soon as any damage to the wrap happens. They're dirt cheap and it's easy to do, again there's youtube videos that show how to rewrap 18650s. Don't get them mixed up with other batteries though afterwards, as you don't want to throw a 15a battery into that thinking it's 25a and pulling too much power from it than the cell can handle.

Hybrid mode is more conductive but at this stage in the game I would use the topcap with the 510 pin instead. You likely won't notice a dramatic difference and it's safer for now.

Also you will probably have better luck with simple round wire builds than things like claptons simply due to ramp up time. Especially since at the moment if you continue to use that without the batteries I linked, you want to pulse it as little as possible. I am erring on the side of caution but if I am aiming for what's safest for you right now and until you learn all you should have known before buying a mech, you probably should too. Either way though, I find simple round wire builds are better in the builds I have tried compared to the fused claptons I gave a shot once. I don't like ramp up time though and even if you look at a lot of way people who are "sponsored" build you will see half the time they are still using basic round wire builds too. They just work and are simple.

u/neildmaster · 5 pointsr/Detailing

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!


u/ColPaint · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.

Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).

I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?

I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.

I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.

I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).

Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.

COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.

Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.

Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.

Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.

I may add more if I can think of anything else.

EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..

u/mrselkies · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

>Switches, where can I try them? is there anything like blues that aren't loud?

You can try out switches by buying a switch tester like this one. I'd say the closest thing to feeling like blues without the click would be cherry MX clears.

> are reds hard to type on?

I wouldn't say they're hard to type on, but that's a bit subjective. Reds are Cherry's lightest switch offering, so someone who likes very heavy switches might find it difficult to type on them, but for someone who's just getting into this stuff or doesn't have a particular preference there isn't anything about Reds that make them hard to type on. They're linear switches, meaning they don't have a click or bump for the actuation, they're just straight force all the way down to bottom-out.

>What is your personal favorite?

Right now my personal favorite is linear switches, with a force somewhere in between reds and blacks. I'm currently using cherry MX black switches and I have some springs that I'm going to modify them with to make them just a bit lighter.

>TKL or full size? seriously have no idea what to do here

This is all about how big you want your keyboard to be. Personally I started out with a full size but with each keyboard I got from there, I went smaller and smaller as I found that there are a lot of keys on a keyboard that I just don't use. I went with TKL and loved it, then tried out some of the smaller sizes like 60%, 65%, and 75%. I decided I liked the 60% but needed my arrow keys so I settled on 65% with my Clueboard.

>RGB is it worth it?

If you're into backlighting RGB is great. There are a few keyboards that are great, solid keyboards that get recommended a lot here that have RGB. Check out the CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro S and L (S is TKL and L is fullsize) and the Ducky Shine 5.

>macro keys/volume controls are they worth it?

This is something that's pretty much non existent in the higher quality enthusiast-grade boards. You can get volume controls through function keys and such but dedicated volume controls are rare (pretty much just the Das Keyboard 4 that I can think of) and macro keys are very much nowhere except for cheap, badly built "gamer" boards by Razer, Corsair, etc. You'll find that the mk community is all about less is more as far as keyboard sizes go, so adding more keys just to do undefined "macros" with is the opposite of what the community's going for. Instead, it's all about reducing the size of the keyboard and adding more functions to existing keys for more efficiency. For example, a lot of people forego dedicated arrow keys and instead have arrow keys on Function+WASD. Personally I like my arrow keys but that's the idea. The highly sought out keyboards in the community are mostly fully programmable, so basically every key becomes a "macro key" at that point.

u/badillin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well, thats a beast of a rig!

With this you could cut a few corners... for example, are you planning on overclocking? if not, there is no need for a K processor, so you could get the 7600 (no k) and with no overclockeable cpu there is no need for a z170 motherboard... but the price difference may not be all that big.

You could get a cheaper PSU, but again, thats a really good and reliable one, the price difference might not be worth it if you are not on a very tight budget.

Essentially i think you have an excellent rig and the things you could "cheap out" on, might not be worth doing so, as in, if you have the extra $ better to have this than the slightly cheaper versions.

A thing i would add is a regular HDD at least 1tb, and use it as storage, if for any reason you need/want to format your pc, you could just wipe the SSD and all your downloaded games/pictures/videos/documents would be safe in the other drive. Only games with long loading times benefit from being installed on a SSD, so no need to have them all in one (i dont have any games on my SSD for example, only Windows and windows programs).

You should post your specs on /r/pcmasterrace with a title like "can someone check my build?" so you can get more opinions, i might not be seeing something!


What monitor do you have, or what resolution (1080p/1440p) and refresh rate (60hz/144hz) are you planning on gaming on?

If you are getting a new monitor, and keeping a AMD Gpu, consider one with FREESYNC (or one with Gsync if you change for a more powerful nvidia card, but expect a $200 price increase as Nvidia taxes manufacturers that use their tech) people say it makes a considerable difference... i havent had one so i couldnt really give my opinion on that.

Now for GPU, With the rx480 you are on the sweetspot for 1080p 60hz gaming.

the next step up would be an nvidia 1070 for either 1440p 60hz or 1080p 144hz

and the next one would be a 1080 for 1440p 144hz


Also do you have mouse/keyboard??

Personally i love Logitech Mice, Want top of the line and arguably the best wired/wireless Mouse there is, but also quite pricy? go for the g900, or one of the most loved and better reviewed is the g502 just ask /r/G502MasterRace

i have a g700s that can be used wired or wireless but the battery life is crap. around 1 week, so i invested on rechargeable batteries, it can be charged via the cable, so not all that annoying, but the g600 battery lasts for around 6 months... (The g600 is wireless only though.) i went for the g700s because of button placements.

And for the keyboard... well there is no dispute, get a Mechanical Keyboard, only thing is that you might be overwhelmed because of the huge ammount of options... but basically get one with CHERRYMX switches, there are others switches, but these are the best there are, no contest. Just decide on the color of the switches, as each one has different characteristics, some are clicky some take more pressure etc... a tester

would be useful to decide what kind you want, i went for the Cherry Mx Browns and i have to tell you, i couldnt be more satisfied, honestly one of the bestest buys ive ever made for my PC, Why do you think my answers are so lengthy? i look for excuses to write on mine, thats how satisfying it is. You might not feel this way the moment you get it, but after a month using it and you get accustomed to your Mech, and then type on a common membrane keyboard, youll ask yourself how the hell did you use that crap for so long.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards is where you should go ask as there are a huge amount of options to choose from.

Thats all i can think of right now!

u/olorwen · 40 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

u/padfootprohibited · 2 pointsr/wow

Very nice build! I'll second the Samsung EVO SSDs--I see a lot of people recommend the Pro ones, and I don't quite understand why, they're pricier for not a lot of (consumer-level) performance increase. EVGA graphics cards are a bit pricier than their competitors, but the customer service is absolutely worth it.

I think you'll be very happy with the 970--I'm still running on a three-year-old 670 with a single 23.6" 1080p monitor, and it still holds 60+ FPS at Ultra in Mythic raiding.

I know little about the EVGA PSUs other than that I see them recommended a lot; another brand to look for is Seasonic, from whom all models are recommended. Avoid Corsair PSUs, especially those of the CX series--I've seen more than one fail after people insisted I use them for their builds.

Regarding a keyboard, I highly recommend mechanical switches--you may want to play around with them and see what you like. Amazon offers a sampler of the six most common switch types for $15, which is well worth it for the money you're about to spend on the keyboard itself. Here I do recommend (Corsair keyboards)[] over the Razer ones you'll see a lot--the build quality is significantly better and they're overall (I've found) far more comfortable to type on.

I agree wholeheartedly with the earlier commenter who suggested you take a look at (Logical Increments)[!/]. Their Parts Information (green bars below the big chart) has a lot of information about what the various parts do, what brands are good, and where you can skimp a little vs. what's really worth the money. They have a (page about World of Warcraft specifically)[] that discusses what components the game taxes more.

Good luck, OP!

u/zenautodetailing · 12 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:


u/vaultwanderer94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sorry this comment is so long haha. I could go on for hours about these stupid switches.

I mean, I have some SKBM White Alps(these are slit-less, like your damped whites) that still feel wonderful(a far cry from SKCM Whites, but still), and were very clean. I'd imagine a cleaning and a lube will help them greatly. End of life SKCM is still better than any current Matias or the most recent SKBM Alps that Matias are based off of.

If you used Tribosys 3204 on them, that could've contributed to the worse feeling as well. I personally haven't lubed any of my Alps switches besides a bit of dielectric grease to eliminate spring ping, and that's a 100% worthwhile thing to do to every switch ever imo. Alps switches much prefer dry lubes, and wet lubes like Tribosys or any other MX suitable lube makes them feel goofy.

Denture tabs can be found at any store, and they're made for dentures, but their oxidization works wonders on a whole lot of different things, just no metal. Think of them as OxiClean(the laundry kind) bit for plastics.

Basically, just take only the top housing and slider(don't forget to take out the dampening rubber tabs) and drop them in the denture tab solution, blowing the dust out first with canned air or a DataVac. Let them sit in there for a while, maybe not 12 hours for only a couple testers, but still a decent amount of time. Once they're done, just squeeze a tiny(barely coat the spring) bit of dielectric grease on each end of the spring and put em back together. If you're going to dry lube them, I wouldn't be able to give advice, as I haven't dry lubed, but I'm sure you can find a tutorial somewhere. They should be silky smooth after that.

As far as what you'll like in the Alps spectrum, it is very difficult to base it off of MX switches, as none have really done a good job at recreating Alps' feels. If you like tactility, I think Alps are the way to go, but for linears, MX are your better option. The designs of each switch are inherently tactile or linear respectively, so neither is a flat out better switch. Alps tactility(though I've heard the oranges feel a whole lot different, and I want some so bad!) is what you'll get from the white damped switches, as long as you can get them smooth, it's rounded and... elegant?(goofy word to use, but it makes sense) If you find buckling springs too loud, you won't enjoy Alps clicky switches. They're loud, but it's such a good sound. Honestly, if your favorite switch is Topre, you may like the cream and white damped more than most, as long as your examples are good. These are the closest to rubber dome I've personally felt in a switch, but they a still are noticeably mechanical.

u/farahad · 1 pointr/geologycareers


  1. Lowa / I went with their Renegade model, but depending on your local climate, something else might make more sense.

  2. I gave Vasque shoes two tries, both pairs split at the seams on the inside near the front of the foot. Total crap.

  3. I think Merrell is ~okay. I haven't tried higher-end models. Their cheaper models usually last me one field season, tops, but they for sure don't break like the Vasques do.

  4. If you're getting good shoes, make sure to treat them well, too. This wax worked well on my leather, and I treated with silicone afterwards.

    You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.


    Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.

    Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.
u/night28 · 20 pointsr/cars

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:


  1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.

  2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.

  3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.

  4. Spray bottle. 1-2.

  5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.

  6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.

  7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.


  8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.

  9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.

    Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.

    Clay Bar/Nanoskin:

    Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.

  10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.

  11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.


    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.

    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.

    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.

    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.

u/jd101506 · 1 pointr/saab

I have the stock dp for now, and a BSR 2.5in stainless. Car sounds almost stock at idle and under throttle it sounds a little more grunty. Pretty nice.

DICs tend to crack, and the cores in them suffer afterwards. I mean, it's a piece of composite plastic that is sitting on the head of your turbocharged engine... it will get up past 80c on hot days so you gotta expect some damage. It's a great piece of technology as it allows knock control and other engine adjustments RIGHT at the plugs, but it's poorly designed considering where it sits and how it sits there. It's the number 1 thing that can leave you stranded while driving. I've been lucky and have only had one go bad in over 60k of T7 driving (two different t7 cars) but it's a total gamble. Sometimes they will drop within 10k, sometimes within 100k. I've been very lucky considering I only got a CEL from an extra knock sensor. Highly recommend and OBDII reader. Just to pull the code. If you have an android phone ge the torque app and a bluetooth adapter. You can monitor engine health with it and check/clear CELs.

I drive a 00 9-5 LPT that I have converted to be an aero. Turbo, up-pipe, exhaust, brakes, clutch, and a few other mods. Flashed a 00 Aero bin and then the e85 map.

There are a few benefits of the tune. First and foremost being the diagnostics. if you push both the -/+ at the same time on the SID you can access diagnostics. This is activated in T7 Suite and is included in my e85 package. Look here for an example of what kinda data can be displayed:

Things of note:

  • amul = fueling information,
  • tair = intake temps (Important for tuning and IC info),
  • meng = engine torque in nM,
  • teng = engine temp,
  • mair and mreq = mair is air actually delivered, and mreq is the requested air. This is SUPER important to find boost leaks.
  • miss = engine misfires and there's another value for knocks

    Other benefits are the ability to run e85 if you want to. We dont' have any around here, but traveling you may run across one. The increase is hp and torque is an absolute benefit. I find my idle and temps are lower with this tune. Also it evens out the power delivery vastly. Very nice torque curve. You can see the graph here: Top image is stage 1, stock is below. I also find that my throttle response and low end power (Where I usually drive the car) is far better. I'm not a racer, so I tend to stay 2-4k and there's a decent amount of torque there to move me around town.

    Reasons for tuning are my own, but the diagnostics and power increase were the main ones. Having a fun DD helps too.
u/olbaze · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you want a simple set of starter peripherals, I'd go for Logitech G402 for a mouse, SteelSeries 6Gv2 for a keyboard and HyperX Cloud II for a headset.

The best option for a mouse would be for you to make a list of features that you require (how many buttons? Ambidextrous/ergonomic design? Wired/Wireless? Lighting preference?) and come back here for a list of mice that satisfy all or most of your requirements. Then you would go to a shop to test how each of those mice feel in your hand and choose the one that is the most comfortable. Buying a mouse on a recommendation is likely to end with you getting a mouse that is not comfortable.

For a keyboard, as a beginner, a standard layout mechanical keyboard would probably be the best bet. However, mechanical keyboards come in various switches, so it would be best for you to spend a few bucks to buy a keyswitch tester online and find which you like best. From there, you could come here or /r/MechanicalKeyboards for suggestions.

For your headset, HyperX Cloud II is an excellent choice and will be pretty much impossible to beat for the price. And any better headset will cost you twice what the HyperX Cloud II does, making it an even better option. In fact, I got the HyperX Cloud II as a Christmas present for my little sister. Meanwhile, if you had other uses for headphones, buying a more expensive pair of headphones with something like the Antlion ModMic would be a good choice.

>The g502 looks like a transformer

How about Zowie EC1-A then? I have owned an older version of that mouse for close to 3 years and it still works flawlessly. It is also an extremely simple mouse, with no drivers or firmware of any kind to trip you up.

u/AdviseMyAdvice · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I'm pretty new to boots as well, but I'd suggest picking up a few things if you don't have them already. This will apply to most leather shoes/boots (doesn't really apply to suede or roughout leathers... for that you'll need a suede brush)

FYI below is basically a tl;dr of this post that got me started on all of this. I recommend you read through it all and check out /r/goodyearwelt and maybe just use this post as more as a quick reference or for ideas.

  1. Brush off your boots as much as you can with the horsehair brush

  2. Wipe down your boots with a wet rag

  3. I'm guessing you won't get everything off, so wait for them to air dry and then use the leather cleaner on them (you probably won't have to use leather cleaner every time... and you might not want to as it dries out the boot)

  4. Wait for your boots to air dry

  5. Condition the leather on your boots.

  6. Wait for your boots to air dry

  7. Repeat whenever your boots need it. On average that will probably be every 3-6 months, but the best way to tell is by feel.

    Daily Care

  • Use a shoe horn to put your shoes on

  • When you take off your shoes give them a quick brush. Ideally you'll take off the shoelaces first but it won't kill them if you don't do this every time. I'd recommend at least brushing them off once every few wears, and brush+wipedown with water/rag every 5-10 wears.

  • Always put cedar shoe trees in your leather boots/shoes when you take them off and leave them in until your next wear... this is what happens if you don't. The shoe trees will help keep your boots from developing unwanted toe spring, will help control moisture inside the boot, and will keep them smelling fresh.

  • Let your boots rest/dry for 24hrs in-between wears with shoe trees in. If you wear them every day you will significantly reduce their lifespan.
u/SplitMyPants · 1 pointr/subaru

It doesn't make you sound dumb, I'd rather see something unique and cool instead of the same mods that are done over and over again.

If you're looking into RallyX have you thought about swapping over to Forester suspension to raise it up a bit?

I'd go the Cobb AccessPort route instead of tactrix because of the simplicity and now that the V3 has come out, the V2 is around $100 cheaper I think. But if you're comfortable doing it that way do it.

I'm not sure if it's just the picture but the headlights look a bit foggy. I used this on my first car a few years ago and it worked great. Most of the other headlight restoration kits are bullshit. You could also bake them open and paint the plastic pieces black to spice things up.

If yellow foglights are your thing I used this on my Subaru and I love it. Just takes around 5 light coats on the outside of the fog lights and you're good to go. Much better than any of the tint overlays or light bulbs.

Here's some information on it. Daniel Stern is pretty well known as the lighting expert.

Another thing you could consider if you want to mix things up is plastidipping your car. DipYourCar has some wild colors, Sunset Orange and Tiffany Blue are my personal favorites. I'd stay away from the normal black though, it normally makes cars look pretty trashy.

Hopefully it doesn't sound like I'm telling you what to do with the car, just giving suggestions. Good luck!

u/AwesomeArachnid · 3 pointsr/Honda

With rattle cans your options are limited, but this method is what I used on my doorjambs and its held up pretty well over the last year. It's not as sturdy as a proper sealer/base/clear combo like I used on the body but works pretty well for rattle cans.

Go to and select the year and paint code for your car and they'll try to mix up some paint to match as closely as possible and send it to you in an aerosol can. Or you can use Duplicolor matched paint from AutoZone. And if you're car is a metallic color, forget about it matching perfectly.

For the clear coat, buy this, it's real clear coat in an aerosol can and lays down really well, buy two cans to be safe, and make sure you have a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. This shit is nasty and you don't want to breathe it.

For surface prep, sand off anything that's peeling with 200-400 grit and then finish the surface with 600 grit sandpaper, anything less will show as scratches after you're done. Wipe it down and don't start spraying base until the surface is clean and dry.

Spray the base coat on using 3 medium to wet coats, 15 minutes between coats. Let the paint cure for at least a week, all of the solvents need to be completely evaporated or you'll have a huge mess on your hands when you spray the clear.

Now that you've waited a week, sand it smooth with 600 grit again and get rid of any runs you might have had in the base coat, wipe the surface clean, and spray the clear in 3 wet coats with 15 minutes between each coat. (longer flash time if it's colder than 65-70 degrees, shorter if it's over 80) After each coat it should be shiny, but don't worry if there's orange peel after the first coat, it will smooth out as the layers "melt" together.

If you get runs in the clear, DO NOT try to fix it (don't dab at it with a paper towel, your finger, etc.), you'll make a huge mess and it will be impossible to fix without respraying the whole thing. Wait until the clear has set up for a week or so, decide if it's really worth it to fix them, and go back with 2000 grit sandpaper and a block and smooth them out, then buff it until it's shiny.

u/breastblessed · 8 pointsr/Android

I just use my retired Galaxy Note 2 with a lightweight lollipop ROM (liquid smooth) and this

~ mount Only $10 and free one day shipping if you are a prime member. It won’t open any wider than a note 2 but it holds securely to both the phone and the dashboard even in this 0 degree weather outside right now. Wish I could leave my phone out in the cold too. I hate North Idaho.

~ Dashcam - I use Dailyroads Voyager It uses cyclic recording so it can keep overwriting and not using up too much space. It can run in the background while I use waze, music, OK Google, etc. You can also set it to save the video when it senses x amount of G forces. Or you can tap the screen at any time to save the video… It has tons of features and the shocking part is it’s free! Since work provides me with unlimited data tethering on my phone I also utilize it’s cloud backup feature.

~ OBD II - For car diagnostics reading I use BAFX OBD2 I was literally shocked at how easy this was to plug in and pair to my phone! For close to $25 I had tons of information about how my car is “feeling” right in front of me. I’ve only tested a few but I stuck with Dash Some of the things it tells me are engine temperature, engine load, speed, MPG, coolant temperature, RPM, air/fuel ratio… anyway, my favorite part of the app is how it keeps track of my trips.. locations, statistics, where I last parked. Love it.

Things I’m still working on are getting an inverter in my trunk to power a small/cheap router and raspberry pi plus small ssd so that in the case of theft my dashcam app could save to the ssd in my trunk to catch the filthy thief. Looks like there is enough room behind the plastic cover where they keep the tire changing tools to keep this equipment hidden from sight. If anyone has better ideas please let me know. Maybe someday I will impress a nice guy ………

u/ShadyFountain · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

I love my Logitech G402 mouse. I have fairly average hands, but I like that it's a bit narrower. It is a bit on the long side, but nothing too crazy.

For keyboards, as people mentioned, you'll want to figure out what kind of switches you want. For Cherry MX, Blue, red, and brown are the most common, but there are a whole load of other colors. Personally, I like browns because I like the tactile feedback (unlike reds), and they're fairly light and are quieter than blues. If you have a store that carries them nearby, definitely try them out. You can also get testers on amazon for about $15, depending on how many switches you want to try. This for example has the usual switches, as well as black, green, and clear, and comes with dampener rings to try as well. I've had a lot of Logitech peripherals over the years, so I ended up with the G710+ board, and I'm happy with it. It's pretty wide as it's a full board, plus has macro keys along one side, but I like having the option of using them :)

u/Go0m · 8 pointsr/FiestaST

Hey all, I got a bunch of info from here and the forums, so I thought I would give back and drop a few links.

First is the roof rack. I think the rola roof rack is the best looking and ends up being one of the cheapest.

Next up is the cargo box. I thought getting one this long would look stupid, but it's way better than I imagined. The rocketbox 11 is one of Thule's cheapest and big enough to fit my huge board in. No noticable drop in mpg, either - hovering barely above 33.

The backup camera is a fantastic upgrade. I followed this post and dug into the forums posted there. I would double check the apim codes because it's a tad dangerous and I didn't use the same exact codes as u/brbauer2 (I have the 2016 w/ sync 3). Shoutout, by the way, the album was super helpful. Also, the pins we inserted to the wiring harness didn't connect with the head unit, so I shredded a small amount of foil to bridge those connections.

Canying Car Trunk Handle Rear...

BAFX Products Bluetooth...

And finally, I like having my windows down in the rain, so I got them smoker vents.

Maybe someday I'll get that accessport/intercooler and a rear motor mount, but I'm loving it as it is!

You all bought awesome cars, thanks for the help, catch you later.

u/CunningRunt · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

u/mxdcm · 3 pointsr/e39

Clean looking model :) congratulations! Love that you have sunroof / moonroof (different countries - different names - same stuff).

Waiting for the interior pictures.

Here are few link where you can find info and parts in case if you will need; searching by VIN number, only the last 7 characters, CE7.... and for parts number for equipment details, with which the car came from factory

Others; using apps

Torque pro or Torque lite - free version to use together with an OBD-II bluetooth scanner for quick diagnostics, are not expensive and can give you some quick info.

Another good app which I tried, a little bit more expensive, is Carly for BMW they have a free lite version as well Carly for BMW Lite only that you will need to have a smartphone which knows USB-OTG and a cable from them (from carly for bmw) adapter search which can be 30€ carly for bmw website

I tried them both, torque and carly, and I would say that they are good enough, can give you informations, faults (errors code) and you can search by error code number to have an idea what can be the issue; as well can clear faults.

Carly for bmw knows coding as a plus, you can configure your car to do other few things, such as automatically locking the doors when going over a certain speed, follow me home lights on time for a certain time, keeping pressed locking button from the key fob to fold the mirrors (+ windows to go up), keeping pressed unlocking button from the key fob for the mirrors to go down; plus other few stuff (can't remember). For a car from the years 2000s is having few nice features.

Take a look at youtube video 5 Series - E39 - Video Handbook (40mins video) and you can learn about them.

You will have to prepare for the future, in case if they will fail, about kit repairs.

In US you have German auto solutions with DIY instructions, tools, kits; very useful stuff.

Since recently I had issues with this hose 11531705223 Radiator Hose which I had it replaced and just blew (snapped) after 1 year when I was going up the mountain, they are know for failing and can leave you stranded; give it an eye inspection.

What else can I continue recommending you... uhm...

Take care of it and again, congratulations :)


u/oc412 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] ( , [platinum pluffle] ( and the [creature edgless] ( are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] ( rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] ( is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] ( stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 1 pointr/vinyl

The problem could be one of two fairly easy to fix issues. It may be dirty adjustment knobs/switches or the belt may be worn out. The solution is to clean the knobs/switches and/or replace the belt.

To clean the knobs/switches you will need a quality electronics cleaner such as Caigs DeOxit or CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I find Caigs to work better, but CRC products are good as well. After cleaning, you should lube the connection with Caigs Deoxit Fader Lube or CRC Lubricant. Links for reference:

The first step is to clean the pitch adjustment pots. I do not have a Technics SL-23, but the pitch adjustment knobs on many tables can be removed by pulling up on them. Once removed you should be able to see the actual mechanics of the pot. Spray a couple shots of cleaner into the pot and let it soak in for a few seconds. Then twist the pot through the full rotation, from far left to far right. Do this several dozen times. Repeat for the second pot. After you do that, spray a shot of lubricant into each one and work the pot several more dozen times. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then plug it in and try it out. If it solves your speed problem then you've found your solution.

The adjustment lever may be an electrical switch or may be a mechanical level. If it's the former, it might just need to be cleaned as above. If it's the later, it may have grease that has solidified with time and needs to be cleaned off and relubed with white lithium grease. In order to do that you will probably need to open the turntable up from the bottom and disassemble the selector mechanism to clean it.

If cleaning the pots and/or lever doesn't solve your problem, then it may be the belt has worn out. Replacement belts can be ordered and are easy to replace.

If none of that solves your problem, then the issue is probably more serious. It could be the spindle and bearing need to be cleaned and relubed. It could be that some of the capacitors in the electrical section have gone out of spec and need to be replaced. It could be the belt pulley motor is dying.

What you will need to decide is how much energy and effort you want to put into this table. If you are handy and enjoy fixing things, this might be a fun project. If you don't find that kind of thing appealing, it may be best to return the table and try to find one in better condition, or something new.

See for the user and service manuals:

u/jleviathon · 2 pointsr/ElectricForest

Here is my secret list shhhhhh... It's not cheap options that's for sure but I like being comfortable I guess, and it's stuff that will last for years of festival fun!

  1. A deep cell marine battery: Available at any auto parts store for about $120. You can then buy a cheap cigarette lighter hook up and intall it onto the battery. Then get yourself a decent 200watt power inverter, about $30. Then you can get some decent sounding speakers that plug in or a bluetooth one. Then you can charge your phone, power the speakers, or charge the bluetooth. With these speakers the battery will last 16 hours! This will also prevent you from ever messing with your car stereo or battery for any reason. Then you can just recharge it with this for next year.

  2. Blackstone's The Dash Portable Gas Grill and Griddle Combo is a great grill to cook every meal you would ever need.

  3. Not to get controversial but these and these have always done me right.

  4. Then this and this will leave you fealing like a million bucks or like someone in GL!
u/hagdiggity · 1 pointr/mazda

I'm not familiar with wireless scanners but I would be curious if the added cost is worth the convenience. This one is around $100 and looks like it has a lot of features that you might not necessarily need/want if you're just looking for something that will read codes. Poking around on Amazon some more might find you a better price tool with less features.

If you don't mind the plug-in tools I would highly recommend - I bought one to troubleshoot a recurring CEL and was pretty happy with the price/ease of use. The Autel tool only reads and clears codes; you'll have to google the actual code to figure out what it is. Good luck!

u/G19Gen3 · 8 pointsr/Watches

I like automatic watches. I've also got a wife, child, and house to pay for. I also love to beat the shit out of my stuff because it just sort of happens.

Enter the SNK803. Automatic. Tough. Most importantly, easily replaced if I destroy it. But, I don't like the matte finish of the case. I DID have a dremel tool. Do I have an autozone? Yes I do. Do they carry mother's mag & aluminum polish? Every day. So I polished it up. Not mirror, a shiny satin finish. But now I need a quality strap. So I ordered a John Allen Woodward Alligator for $1,100...NO! What goes best with a satin finish and a beige face? Simple leather! This is a Ritche Genuine Leather NATO strap for a timex weekender. Happens to come in 18mm. And you know it's high quality leather. How? Says so. Genuine is right in the name. Only the best straps come WITH a tool to remove the pins.

Now I've got a watch that looks great, keeps great time, is a tiny mechanical wonder, and looks just as good at work as it does hiking. With a grand total of maybe $60 and an hour of work in it.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.

u/dstaller · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Blue is the loud clickity clackity switch. A lot of people like the noise and try to associate it with mechanical keyboards, but if you're like me and prefer a less noisy experience avoid them. When a friend of mine was still living at home, his mom made him get rid of his blue switch keyboard because it was so loud she couldn't sleep at night being in the next room. He also didn't have o-rings so she had to deal with the clicky noises and the clacking from bottoming out.

Browns are basically quieter versions of Blues. Great for typing without all the noise. Has a tactile bump for actuation without the click noise and great for typing. I use these for both gaming and typing and I love them.

Reds are linear switches. Little quieter than browns. Easier to bottom out if you don't have o-rings because there isn't a bump or click for actuation and they have little resistance. Typically used more for gaming, but doesn't mean you need them for gaming.

All three are commons choices and at the end of the day it completely comes down to preference. If you're unsure what switch you'd prefer, go to a computer store with some on display and try them out. If none are available, there are switch testers to you can order to test out the different choices. For example.

Also, cheaper option with less switch choices.

Browns with o-rings are my personal favorite. Brown for the bump without the click, and o-rings to avoid the clack. I also really love the way Black switches feel, but admittedly they're a bit too stiff for me to game with so I stick with brown.

u/Escabrera · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here:
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here:
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:


>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended:

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:

u/Undercover_Hitler · 3 pointsr/AskMen
  • Learn how to change a tire. Do it in your driveway or in a parking lot on your own. It is a lot better to know how to do it right when you need to. And it is much easier to learn how on a warm sunny day than on the side of the road in the rain, or the middle of the night.

  • Keep a tire pressure gauge on you. If your tires appear low, check the pressure. Tip: Sheetz gas stations (at least the ones in Virginia) have free air (most gas stations do). Their systems have a digital pressure setting and an auto-cutoff. Just set the pressure, and it will stop filling when it gets there. Otherwise use your pressure gauge to dial it in. Most cars will feature the tire pressure for front and rear tires on a sticker in the front door frame.

  • Water will work as coolant in the summer. If it is colder outside, you will want to buy antifreeze. Most gas stations will sell it.

  • If a warning light on your dash comes on (check engine, oil light, alternator light, etc) you will need to get it checked/fixed soon. Check engine lights can sometimes be nothing (sometimes it is just a loose gas cap), but it is always good to get it checked. More on that in a minute. If a warning light on your dash starts flashing, that is a serious problem. Pull over, turn the car off, and call a service station

  • You can save yourself some money by getting an OBD2 Reader. These read your check engine codes and tell you why your check engine light is on. Some shops will do this for you for free, some will charge $20. Most corporate owned auto stores will let you borrow theirs in exchange for your drivers license. Personally, I say just drop the $20 and get one, it saves time later on. They sell ones that are much more expensive, up to thousands of dollars. You don't need these; these give "live" data of the car's sensors and other things that won't help anyone other than a mechanic. A small $20 one will read the code and probably clear it if you want.

    Simple run down on how to use them (should be in the instruction book). 1. Plug it into the car, with the car turned off. (The plug will almost always be under the dash) 2. Turn the key to the ON position. (Do not start the car, just one click before it. Like if you wanted to turn the radio on but not start the engine) 3. The code reader will usually say READING for a few seconds and give you one or more codes. They will look something like P0430. Cheap readers usually have books with them that will tell you what they mean. More expensive ones ($100-$200) will define the code. If you don't have the book, just google the code.

    Depending on the code, you may or may not understand what it means. This is okay. If you google the definition of the code, you will almost always find someone describing the general idea of what is going on. Again, you might not be able to use this info to repair the car yourself, but it can give you an idea of how serious a problem is, and may prevent you from being ripped off by mechanics.

  • Anticipate maintenance and repairs. Tires are expensive. Thankfully, they don't need to be replaced all that often, but changing 4 tires at once can easily be $300 bucks for cheap new tires. Avoid used tires. Keep $100 saved up to get the oil changed. Newer oils need to be changed less often, but the shop should advise you when to come back. (I'm assuming you aren't planning on changing your own oil any time soon) Nothing is worse than knowing your oil is dirty and overdue for a change but not having the money to make it happen, and old dirty oil will shorten the life of your engine.

  • Every 6-8 months, when you get gas, go into the gas station and buy fuel system cleaner. It will look similar to this. Simply pour the entire bottle into your gas tank and then fill up your tank to the top. Also, and this is very important! DO NOT PUT THIS IN A DIESEL VEHICLE

  • Finally, find a good mechanic/service station. Ask locals around your town. Check reviews. The difference between a good one and a bad one can be hundreds, if not thousands. Before I learned about cars, I went to several mechanics for my first car.

    One never updated me on their progress, charged super high prices, and recommended unnecessary repairs. Then I went to one that would come out and talk to me 2 or 3 times throughout the repair (giving me updates, letting me know of other problems he noticed, etc), he would never perform an additional repair without taking me into the shop and showing me exactly what he was talking about. At one point, he ordered brake parts from down the street because I thought I needed new parts. Turned out it was a whole different issue with different parts. He happily sent them back, free of charge to me, and walked me through what he was going to do. I still take my cars to him when they have "gremlins" that I can't figure out. Usually they charge a pretty big service fee per hour, but from the very first time he charges me 1 hour less than whatever it takes him. His reason is always "I wanted to figure it out as bad as you did. Forget the money, this thing became my puzzle."

    But I've been rambling on that. Point is, find a good mechanic and stick with them. It will make a huge difference.
u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.

Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:

1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.

2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:

3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).

4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.

5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.

6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.

7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.

8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.

u/HalifaxSamuels · 2 pointsr/oneplus

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

u/nycska · 3 pointsr/Integra

The quickest and easiest temporary solution is to grab some Plast-X from a local auto store. Rub it in and wipe it off with a microfiber. It will help, but they won't look new and it won't last very long.

The more permanent solution is to sand the lights, 500 then 800,1500,2000,3000 etc. Then compound and polish with Meguiar's 105/205 or similar. Then you'll have to apply sealant (not wax, but something like Meguiar's M21) to protect from UV rays. This will bring them closer to new than any other method or product. If the lens isn't cracked and you spend enough time on each sanding step, they'll be near perfect.

3M also makes a nice little kit for a drill that you can find on amazon. If you don't already have a DA polisher, the kit is the way to go. It comes with an aggressive little pad, sanding discs, and polish. I found that 105/205 worked better than the single stage 3M polish, but it did work. The kit is nice as well because the orange polish pad it comes with is reusable, and with the right products (105/205) can be great for spot corrections on little scratches and swirls in the paint.

If you choose to sand, consider pulling the bumper off first. Our lights are tough because they are sunk in there so deeply.

u/JacePriester · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Oooh oooh, I know this one!

So Matraxia is pretty much right, whatever is cheap, but I'll give you some more info you should know.

Pretty much all of the OBDII scanners out there, at least for consumer use, are based on the ELM327 IC. The ELM defines a serial, text-based protocol as an input, so you (or an app like Torque) give it a series of commands just like it were a modem, and then it handles communicating with your vehicle via several different protocols, all pretty much transparently. That's why one program like Torque can talk to pretty much every vehicle, via the ELM chip's magic.

The thing about that is, the firmware for the ELM chip got leaked a long time ago and there have been unlicensed Chinese copies made ever since. The real ELM has had upgrades since then, and the Chinese version has sort of kept up, but in the knockoffs some things work right and some things don't. They're frequently slower, buggier, or don't support certain commands, compared to the real ELM chips.

So how do you tell which you're getting? Mostly the price. The knockoffs are cheap, like this one:

No way that's a real one. Not for 4 bucks. That said, I have no idea what the cutoff is where you might consider it legit.

Personally, I have this one:

I have sent it a number of commands over the serial terminal to verify that it's a real ELM327 chip and it has passed all of my tests. That said, it could still just be a good knockoff with a lot of the ELM's newer commands implemented. I really don't know for sure.

Either way, works great.

As for gathering data and exporting to excel.. that has nothing to do with the OBDII adapter you get and everything to do with the software you run on your phone. I have no idea of Torque or others support this but it seems like they should.

u/paperwaller · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

My friend has this one and it seems to work well enough actually. I'm going to order one for myself right now. I have a magnetic phone mount that goes in my CD slot that works really well due to the layout in my car. I might use a spare phone to run as extra gauges and a music player. You could get a BlueDriver but those are about $100 though I hear they are really awesome. Though honestly for just $10 it can't hurt to at least try it out.

Edit: For $20 this one looks to be a bit nicer. I'm ordering one for myself right now. Thanks for reminding me. These are really handy tools and just plain fun to play around with.

u/Honey_Bunches · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

It's the 4-cylinder. The original parts were Denso, but I'm pretty confident that I got the correct Dorman parts. It's a '99 Camry LE L4. EGR Valve, Modulator, VSV. None of the vacuum hose in the VSV/EGR/Modulator system is clogged. I actually checked the 5 or 6 hoses while I was replacing everything. I also sprayed some Gumout Carb Cleaner into into the intake when I took the EGR off. Cleaned the EGR pipe too.

This is the scanner I'm using. I'm also using the Torque app on my phone. As you can see, it offers some nice monitoring. I glanced at that Vacuum Boost graph while I was driving and I think I remember it sitting at around 15 when I was idling and dropping to 3 or 4 once I got going. I didn't check out the O2 graphs though. I'll log some graphs tomorrow and do some real testing.

Thanks so much for your awesome response. Troubleshooting this has been so frustrating and you've given me something to do.

u/Capitano_Barbarossa · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.

Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.

Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.

Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.

u/cf2121 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

How To: Decontaminate your paint & wheels

  1. Gather your supplies. I have used a combination of a paint safe iron dissolving product, a clay bar, and a Nanoskin Sponge (picture 1)
  2. WARNING: If you are using an iron dissolving product, DO NOT have your car parked in the sun. Remember the flash point with chemicals? You do not want something strong enough to dissolve metal particles drying on your paint. Liberally spray the product on your paint, focus on the areas around the wheels as obviously kick up crap from the roads (picture 2).
  3. You should see a color change happening just as if you had sprayed the product on your wheels. Note: Because of the dark color of my car, I couldn’t get the camera to capture any color change efficiently. Dwell time shouldn’t really last longer than 5 minutes or so.
  4. Hose down the car. Yes, if you’re doing this step you’ll have to dry the car again. But you know how to do it now, so it shouldn’t be too bad!
  5. I like to clay bar the wheels next. I’m using an old piece of clay, and seeing as my wheels are pretty beat up already, I don’t really care. However, a new(er) piece of clay is always recommended. Examine the wheels. See any bits of tar or brake dust that didn’t come off from washing? (picture 4)
  6. Lube up the wheels using the product of your choice. For the wheels, I am using QD strength ONR. One the paint, I like to use the leftover soap from the wash bucket during the 2 bucket wash. Note: water is NOT an adequate lube for clay. Using back and forth motions, not circles, rub the clay on the wheels using medium pressure (picture 5).
  7. Examine to see if the problem area has been resolved (picture 6).
  8. Continue onto the rest of the wheels (picture 7).
  9. When clay becomes too dirty, fold and kneed it up until you can longer see the dirt accumulated (picture 8).
  10. When you can longer find a clean side, it is time to toss the clay (picture 9).
  11. If you drop clay, it’s time to toss it. This sucks, especially when you have just broken off a new piece to use. Clay picks up anything it touches, dropping it on the ground renders it useless (picture 10).
  12. NanoSkin products act the same way as clay. However, they require no refolding, last longer, and if you drop them you can just wash them off. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little more expensive, but are totally worth it in my experience. The sponge (which I am using) is the cheapest option. They also offer mitts, towels, and pads for a DA.
  13. Dunk the sponge in the wash bucket (picture 13).
  14. Using back and forth and up and down motions, ‘clay’ the paint (picture 14). Again, use medium pressure. No need to ‘grind’ the sponge into the paint. Note: when using soap as clay lube, I like to hose down the panel first again to give the soap extra lubrication. I know I know, you just hosed down the car and dried it again. It really isn’t so bad. It seems like a lot of steps backward, but trust me, you’re moving forward!
  15. Oh no! You dropped your sponge! (picture 15)
  16. No worries, hose it off and you’re good! (picture 16)
  17. I like to work in half panels at a time, and remember to start from the roof down. This way when you rinse off the car again, you’re working from the top down and not going back and forth.
  18. I will be tackling window decontamination in the Sealing ‘How to’.
    Note: When using a clay bar and/or sponge, you will feel the contaminants being picked up. When running over the paint or wheels, you’ll feel little bumps. Keep the clay/sponge motion going and the bumps should go away. It’ll start to feel smooth. To be 100% sure you’ve gotten everything up, place your hand in a plastic sandwich baggy and run your hand over the paint. Because of the ‘finer’ surface area of the bag, you’ll feel what you missed. Here is a video of Mike Phillips explaining it.

    Congrats! Your car should be contaminant free and ready to be polished!

    Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller

    The Mother's & Meguiar's Clay Bar Kits can be found over the counter for about $15-20.

    NanoSkin Fine Grade Sponge

    Optimum No Rinse

    CG Citrus Wash & Gloss
u/Zokuta · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.

So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?

> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.

Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.

> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)

Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.

> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.

These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?

> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics

Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?

> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.

What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?

u/bongklute · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

deoxit. all the knobs, sliders, switches, etc.

clean out the inside of the machine. use a paintbrush / toothbrush to get the dust that has settled close to the boards. be gentle, take your time.

while you're digging into those two things, hopefully you'll get a better look at the caps, or if anything is notably burnt. that hiss could be a few different things, but luckily there isn't too much complexity inside there.

that's a great unit, i wish you the best of luck.

u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar


  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/MrBlankenshipESQ · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

u/DasWerk · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.

Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.

Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.

Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.

I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!

As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.

u/kinjileslie · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Uh oh, I see I'm finding another subreddit to join... because I love typing.

Good comments from the other replies here. I love my K68 and my K63. I have one at home, where I work often typing up compliance letters, policy docs, emails and PowerPoints for my company. And never ending meeting notes. Loved my K68 so much at home I got the compact K63 for work.

That being said, be sure you get something you're happy with, even if you end up returning another keyboard. I love MX switches. You might want to check out Romer-G switches on Logitech, much newer design and I hear people rave about them. I'm sure someone will correct me: I think MX switches are from the '80s? I love them and type all day on my two Corsairs with reds, even though they are more "for gaming than typing." So, yes, I think you'll get used to them if you keep the K68 but if you have the option to find something you'll really love, that should be the keyboard you get. Sounds like you don't love the reds.

There's also stuff like this switch tester out there: Cherry MX Switch Tester on Amazon

Edit: Fixing link

u/ExcerptMusic · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Basically. Think of the paint and clear as pieces of clear paper. You just keep stacking it. You have your primer, paint, paint, then clear, then sparkles, then clear, clear, clear, clear.

The more clear, the more depth. Too much clear and it starts to get hazy, unless you wet sand really well between coats.

Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get this spray clear. Once you use the hardener, you have 48 hours to spray more coats which is plenty of time.

u/timbotx · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing


I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: or


Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy


Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!



u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit

WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)

WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/phineas1134 · 2 pointsr/boating

Kaboom with Oxiclean + tooth brush, then wipe clean with a microfiber towel has worked well for me. Be sure to give the cleaner a good minute or more of contact time to work its magic on the mildew before wiping clean.

The magic eraser suggested by others will work quicker, but it will also scour off the top layer of your vinyl which will likely weaken it and remove UV protection. If you must go the magic eraser route be as gentle as possible, and be sure to generously re-coat the vinyl with 303 protectant to protect against UV damage.

And if all else fails, vinyl can be repainted to look like new. I had great results a few years ago with this white dye followed by a few coats of this clear coat on my seats. They are still holding up great after a few years of heavy use and many cleanings.

u/KeyMastar · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

The key is simply to get a keyboard you like. One that feels good to you. You will do better if you feel comfortable using it. Many people will suggest mechanical, but if you honestly prefer the feel of rubber dome, go for it. I WOULD suggest perhaps looking on amazon for a kit that gives you a sample feel of a bunch of different mechanical key switches, such as this. It will give you a better idea or what you like before you commit a large sum of money to a keyboard full of them.

One final thing; keep in mind the strength and weight of your fingers. If you have small skinny fingers, mx greens are not for you. They require the highest force of all the cherry-mx switches to actuate. They will tire out your fingers with extended use. Otherwise, its completely your opinion based on comfort.

u/signint · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The clear parts will take a bit of work but you should actually be able to get them looking like new. (If there is still paint left on the part) Start taking off the paint by sanding with a high grit sandpaper mounted with double sided tape to a flat surface. Then I'd suggest buying this: and working your way through that, in the end it should look like new. I use it on every clear piece after I have removed the flash and sanded away the nub marks. You can even apply a gloss clear coat after that step as well to get a better than new shine.

As far as the paint beading goes, I think you diagnosed the problem already, since you aren't using primer on clear parts washing them is crucial. Do everything you can to have optimal painting conditions as well, and be sure to spray lightly, take your time, and SLOWLY build up layers.

u/Trokeasaur · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Meguiars is a good over the counter alternative to some of the other options and has pretty solid products. That being said, its rarely best in class for any single product, but will almost certainly rank higher than black magic or Armour All in any head to head.

303 is a great product for both look and protection. It has some UV blockers that will keep your black plastic looking better for longer and is pretty cheap. Also works well on interior plastics as well and you can sometimes find it in hardware stores.

I'd also agree with Brooklyn's recommendation of the Opti-Bond as it is one of my preferred tire gels.

u/water_mellonz · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:


I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.


Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.


The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

u/NiceBootyGuurrrrlll · 4 pointsr/TheBrewery

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

u/sumthingcool · 3 pointsr/leaf

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great:

Take a look at this for the L2 charging:

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app:

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

u/funbob · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

  • Radio - $128.86

  • 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77


  • 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00

  • Battery charger - $21.85

  • You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99

  • You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49

    side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63

    additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.

    Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.

    Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up):

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

Thingiverse link:

u/dsteele713 · 2 pointsr/cars

Assuming you have a drill, $13 for a 3M Headlight kit. I drive a 2001 Honda and just did mine, and the difference was quite noticeable. The headlights are much brighter now since it's not being absorbed and redirected by those cloudy-ass lenses.

I'd spend $15 on an OBDII Bluetooth adapter and ~$6 on the premium version of the Torque app so you can read fault codes and real-time engine data.

We're at $34 right now. I'd buy a bottle of rain-x, some microfiber towels, and some cleaning products for my car (glass cleaner, soap, wheel cleaner, etc.), and that might come to another $30, though you could easily spend more if you don't have any cleaning supplies or decide to get all the goodies. I would then spend a few hours and go to town on your car. The few hours I spent were totally worth it when I consider how much more I enjoy driving my car now.

Finally, I'd buy a nice cabin air filter for $15 or so and replace the old one that is probably long overdue (when I replaced mine I found it had never been replaced in the car's 185k service). That will increase the quality of the air coming in quite noticeably.

We're at $79 so far. I would go on your car's forum to see if there are any cheap fixes or improvement you can make to the car. I had a problem where sometime when the car would go over bumps or take a hard turn I would hear this squeaking noise. Turns out that the front suspension bushing can rub against the bare metal surrounding them when they get old, and a few bucks worth of lithium grease will quiet them down to where you can't hear them. Simple, cheap fix that made me love the car more. See if you can find something like that for your accord.

I also think minerdeity's Aux to bluetooth adapter would be great if you have an old car that doesn't have bluetooth.

u/Liquidkp · 5 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

To understand what shoe care needs: Shoe Care Guide

To clean leather products: Saddle Soap

To condition leather products: Venetian Shoe cream (VSC) or Saphir Renovateur or [Allen Edmonds Leather Lotion] (

To "protect" leather you have 2 options:

  1. "Light" protection (Not permanent) - Mink oil. (WILL DARKEN LEATHER!! - Not recommended on light leathers / dress shoes)

  2. "Heavy-duty" protection - Obenauf's or Sno Seal

    If you're walking around in snow / rain with dress shoes: Galoshes/ Overshoes

    And being more specific helps. If you live in warmer climates, Mink oil and Obenauf's are most likely unnecessary, and products like VSC and Saphir would be great.

    Avoid products from DSW and most B&M stores (unless well reviewed and recommended!) and the likes as they aren't great in quality (personal experience) - and if you're spending hundreds on shoes, consider spending a few dollars more to taking care of them goes far.
u/Ruleryak · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

It's not going to be the most efficient setup, but it can work. Basically, the biggest loss will be charging the batteries. Think of it like this - the generator is a gas engine spinning a motor that generates dc power. That power is converted to house current (ac) in order to let you plug in to the generator. A battery charger then converts that back to dc and charges the battery - so a portion of the power is lost in both conversions. If the goal is just charging batteries, a motor and an alternator generally cover that purpose better than a full generator.

All that said - your 800w genny, plus a trickle charger, plus a battery, plus an inverter will work out for your as well. The trickle charger works with whatever power the generator has available to charge the battery, and when you're using the power at night from the battery you'll need an inverter to run lights/gear off of the battery.

You'll probably want to charge the bikes directly from the generator too. If they use a 12v battery then you can charge it with the same setup. Charging one battery at a time, and needing several hours to charge each means you'll need to run the generator quite a bit during the day. Bring extra oil, make sure you know how much gas it consumes while running, and be safe with it. Make sure oil/gas don't get on the playa!

I would highly recommend getting something with higher wattage. 800 running is very low. I'd also recommend getting 12v lighting/gear so that an inverter is not necessary. Running 12v lights directly from the battery at night will be much more efficient than using an inverter, because you eliminate the conversion process. The inverter is the most likely piece to malfunction out there due to heat or dust so not needing one at all definitely is preferable.

u/becoolbasf · 3 pointsr/teslamotors
  1. What I advise you to do the following:
    1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
    2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done:
  2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
    1. ONR Solution
    2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
    3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
    4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
    5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
    6. Grit Guard (2x)
    7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
    8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
    9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
  3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!
u/Ryvaeus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>I want the feel of a mechanical

That's as varied as the colors in the RGB spectrum (well not quite, but you know what I'm getting at). I suggest you go to a retail shop that will let you test the different kinds of mechanical keyboards there are, or buy one of these mechanical switch testers so you can play around with the feeling of different switches (there are cheaper ones with less switches, but this one has a good representation of the Cherry MX line). Yes, any mechanical keyboard feels distinct from a membrane, but if you get one with MX Reds and find that it's too mushy for your liking, then that's a bit of a waste.

And, though it may rustle some jimmies here at r/mk, there are even some hybrids available. Essentially, they're membrane keyboards with mechanical components that mimic the feel of certain switches and even allow compatibility with MX keycaps. You get the advantages of membranes (quiet, cheap, waterproof) with some of the tactile feel of mechanicals. And generally they're backlit for your nighttime pleasure.

u/wishful_cynic · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's no different than people wanting a pen that feels nice on paper and in their hand. Anyone who spends time inputting text appreciates a high quality instrument with a nice feel.

How do you use your keyboard?

Do you value the number pad?

How hard do you press the keys?

Is backlighting important to you?

I recommend buying this switch tester from Amazon to see which switch feels best to you. They're all Cherry MX switches, which are the most common switches that you'll find on boards from Amazon or (another online vendor with free shipping).

u/powermad80 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Various switches have certain things they're inherently a little bit better for (red switches for gaming, blues for typing, etc.) but it's entirely down to personal preference. You can read up on the wiki about what each switch is like, but the best thing you can do is buy a cherry mx switch tester, that'll let you try out each of the most common switches so you can get an idea of what kind you like.

If you have any stores in the area you can go to that sell mechanicals though, the best thing is to go there and try a bunch out yourself.

Based on the fact that you both play Osu and have other people around you though, you probably won't want the exceptionally loud blue switches.

u/Release_the_KRAKEN · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

You need to know how to solder to customize shit? Do you mean just switching key caps or?

For point 2, I think you should try and go to a nerdy computer store (I don't know where you are but in Canada, I would say the difference between a regular store and a Nerdy store would be like Futureshop vs Canada Computers or NCIX) and play around with different keyboards or try out a cherry key tester. Basically a piece of plastic that has all the colors of the Cherry MX keys (red, blue, black, brown, green, and in some cases, but rarely, white). Figuring out what kind of keys you want is going to be one of the biggest issues for you. Personally I like blues because of how light they are, the tactile feel, and that they sound like a machine gun going off :D. Greens would be a close second but I know they have more weight to each press on them.

RGBs definitely make things more expensive but here are some other brands that do RGB.

Basically the idea is that if you mash 6 keys at the same time, all 6 will register. The keyboard won't have a brain fart and ignore it. But that's the max: 6 keys. Nkey roll over means you can mash as many keys as you can and all will register on time. I've always thought it would be pretty damn difficult to need to register more than 6 keys at once but it's considered a key feature for good keyboards to have. Or atleast that's the impression I get from when I researched all this stuff.

250USD? Oh man, that's a huge range! I suppose you'll can get some good stuff in Korea but you'll just have to make sure you can get English caps! Unless you're fluent in Keyboard.

Hmm..I don't know much about casing changing. Do you want to change the physical dimensions of the case or just the colors and such?

u/keytarin · 1 pointr/cars

I can also really recommend the kit /u/schwartzd used. The kit includes sandpaper pads and a foam buffer that you can attach to a power drill. It was a long and kinda tedious process but the more time and care you take the better it will appear. Results also hold up spectacularly as well- previously I had used a Turtle Wax brand hand polishing kit that while did clear up the lens, the hazing was back in as little as three months. I used the 3M kit on my lenses last June and today they are still as clear as the day I bought them.

I've seen the kits go for around ~$30 at auto stores but you can get them much cheaper off Amazon.

u/jmack428 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hi All!

My family owns a heating oil delivery business and we pride ourselves on having the cleanest and best looking trucks around.

To polish the tanks, we use Mother's Aluminum polish ( applied by hand (to avoid swirls, I'm told)

I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on a best approach to keep these looking like a mirror finish? Could a DA polisher be used? Is there a better product than the aluminum polish? Should we be waxing the tanks as well?

Here are a couple of pictures:

Thanks for any tips! I know this is a little unique since it's metal instead of paint!

u/FullDerpHD · 2 pointsr/gaming

Well if price is no issue the very first thing I suggest you do is order a switch tester

This is so you can actually feel what each type of switches are like.

After that start looking at suggestions/keyboards that use the type of switches you like.

I personally really do like my K70

It's very solid and well built. Comfortable and you can use all kinds of lighting effects.

As for a mouse if you're into FPS games check out zowie products and pick one that matches your grip type well. Logitech and Razer also make good mice.

A naga like you mentioned in your other post would be a good mouse for the more casual games where you might want more buttons.

u/HeyZeus_Christ · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Honestly the type of key matters way more than the manufacturer. Make sure they're Cherry MX switches; avoid Razer as they use proprietary Khalil switches that most people don't like as much and that I've heard wear out faster. I'd recommend trying all of the switches before you buy one, because everyone has a preferred style. I like reds and browns but blues are also popular. Best Buy sometimes has mech keyboards that you can try out and see which one you like best, otherwise get a switch tester.

u/hyperdream · 2 pointsr/audio

Sure, awesome find by the way.

After removing all the tubes I wiped it down a few times with just a damp cloth to get the heavy dust off. The real pain is getting rid of the sticky yellowed smoke film that most old tube gear has. The best thing I've found to get rid of it is Zep All Purpose Cleaner. It's green and can be found at Home Depot. The nice thing about it is that you apply it, wait five to ten minutes and gently wipe it off. It takes the grime with it and leaves lettering. Keep it up until the surface is clean and your rag isn't lifting up any nasty yellow anymore. You still have to be careful, if you rub too much or apply too much or leave it on too long it will lift lettering, but it's the most forgiving product I've come across in that respect. I was pretty lucky with this one as it hadn't been smoked around that much.

For the aluminum tube covers I used Mothers metal polish. They transform from dull grey to almost a mirror finish without too much effort. I went a little nuts with the Mothers and polished as much of the steel as I could, like the tuning pot cover (while trying to keep the stickers), the sides of the chassis, and the aluminum capacitor cans. This album shows a before and after.

I removed the face panel, soaked it in Zep first and then used Blue Magic Quick Shine metal polish. I also used Zep on the back but didn't do much else since there's so much lettering around all of the connections that I didn't want to remove it. I soaked the knobs in Zep, used Brasso to shine up the caps, and then used a paper towels and a small stiff brush to get all of the Brasso out of the plastic grooves. I was lucky with the dial glass, it wasn't dirty enough that it need to be removed, I just used Zep and then Windex on the front. If you do remove it, be very careful with the lettering, it comes off easily... I'd only use a damp cloth.

After I fired it up I found I had some dirty switch pots, so I squirted them with a little Deoxit and worked them back and forth. I also used a little clock oil on the pots.

I bought a kit from this guy to replace components. There are plenty of forums (I prefer with information and willing members to assist if you want to do it yourself, but the kit takes a bit of the guess work out of it. My album shows everything that was replaced. Basically, it's every capacitor that could go bad and affect the sound, modifying the de-emphasis to modern standard, lowering the voltage (These fishers run crazy hot and eat output tubes at their original voltage), and making it a little safer to operate.

I had to replace the plastic antenna straps which had crumbled from age, one of the brass knob caps that was missing, 3 out of the 4 lightbulbs, and 9 tubes.

I then put the tubes back in and brought it slowly up on a variac for about 3 or 4 hours to reform the can caps. I still have some polishing work on it, but it's pretty much done and sounds great.

Have you powered up your 500B? Is it complete? Pictures?

u/Lucidiously · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A 2080 might even be overkill for 1080p depending on what games you play, but it should last you a long time and also leaves you the option to upgrade to a 1440p monitor if you so desire.

I'm not that knowledgeable about mice and keyboards, but for a mouse you can't really go wrong with a Logitech G502.

For (mechanical) keyboards there is a lot of choice in the $50-150 range, depending on what features you want such as RGB, I know Corsair makes good ones and I've got a CoolerMaster myself that I'm quite happy with, but there are a lot of other manufacturers. You could ask the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards for advice, but be warned that it's a rabbithole, before you know it you'll be looking at $250 keyboards with custom keycaps. ;)

One thing I would do when it comes to mechanical keyboards is figure out what switches you prefer, there's a lot of variation. The ones that are used the most are Cherry MX, which come in several colours denoting their function. Reds are more silent and offer no resistance, Browns are more tactile, Blues are clicky like a typewriter and Blacks are like Reds but require a bit more force push down. Those are just the most common ones, and afaik most gamers stick with Reds or Browns. A switch tester like this can help you decide, you can find them much cheaper on Aliexpress though.

u/motelirrelevant · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp

The boot preservative

Or the silicone water shield

Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.

u/KingClam2 · 1 pointr/CasualConversation

Sure :)

This is Chrisfix YT channel

This guy is great... he seems to know EXACTLY how much to say. He never leaves out anything I need to see or be told, but at the same time, he doesn't waste time telling me unnecessary stuff. I think this balance is REALLY hard for most uploaders to manage, but he does it masterfully. It's truly unfortunate he doesn't have a video for every single topic. "Oh cool, there's a ChrisFix video for this," is a great feeling. I instantly know it will be smooth-sailing.

This is ErictheCarGuy YT channel

At first I found this guy to be a little intimidating or advanced for my level of knowledge. Occasionally I need outside reference to understand some things in his videos. However, even though I originally tended to click out of his videos when I stumbled into them... he eventually became my other favorite channel. I quickly became fed up with videos that wasted my time by being redundant/slow/irrelevant/incorrect.

And THIS is the best $20 you'll ever spend

With that you can use your phone and an app to check why the check engine light is on... and way more. If you happen to drive a Ford or Nissan then "Car Gauge Pro" is the app you want... $9 and it does way more than the more popular apps like Torque Pro.

u/rainishamy · 11 pointsr/SleepApnea

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.

Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.

Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

u/Docmcfluhry · 1 pointr/buildapc

> I'd recommend Cherry Reds

Browns are good too, but I prefer Reds as they feel better overall to me. I'd definitely reccommend trying them out for yourself to see what you like before buying. I know my local Best Buy had some keyboards out to try. If you can't do it that way, you could always buy something like this first:

u/ThoR294 · 1 pointr/pics

They also sell kits for headlight restoration. 3M one is amazing. I've done about 3 so far and they are flawless. This one requires a cordless drill, and it makes it super super easy and less stress on your arm lol.

Also, for your rust spot, it's not coming through the back right? I know subaru's they like to rot behind, so maybe get behind there with some undercoating spray to make sure it doesn't come back!

u/TorsionFree · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I think you're using the words "keys" and "switches" backward :) Keys are what your fingers touch when you type. Switches are what they connect to.

You might want to pick up an inexpensive switch tester so you can taste the rainbow before committing. I wish I'd done this before I bought my first, since I ended up finding out that blue switches were not to my taste and decided to return my first board as a result.

Since it sounds like clicky switches aren't an option, your Race will probably have silver, red, black, brown, or clear switches.

If you're looking for the quietest experience, you probably want a heavier switch that will make it easier to type without "bottoming out" as much (smacking the keys against the board). So black or clear switches might be your best bet. Blacks are linear, meaning smooth action from top to bottom so you don't feel exactly where the key activates. Clears are tactile, so they have a little bump in the action that lets you know when the key is activated before bottoming out.

If you're up to retraining how you type a little bit, the clear switches would most help you learn how to type with a minimum of bottoming-out. So that'd be my thought, but grab a switch tester and try them out first if you want to feel for yourself. Good luck!

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/bovinitysupreme · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I'm not /u/gingican but I can provide the comparison:

  1. Generic one that looks like this: -- mine was from Harbor Freight (they don't have it anymore) and was orange but otherwise identical. Fine for pulling standard codes and resetting Check Engine Light.

  2. Scangauge II -- mainly used as a gauge but good for pulling/resetting basic codes and getting freeze frame data. Obviously, can provide a bunch of data (as intended for daily gauge use). With a lot of work (programming XGauge codes) it could get a little more data too.

  3. BAFX bluetooth OBD2 tool is nice. It's just hardware, it works great, but what's really nice is Torque. Torque can store/export sensor data, integrate with GPS data, display all manner of gauges and graphs, etc. My only complaint is I can't access ABS codes (specifically on my GM). Also, bluetooth itself is nice, the device is easily plugged in and no fooling with wires, and I can interface with the phone that I already carry anyway.
u/zakabog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> What do you think would be the best switches for me? MX Brown?

That's something you need to answer for yourself, if you can try and find a store that stocks Cherry MX switch keyboards and try them out.

> I also like my friend's Logitech Orion G810 keyboard, but I don't know the cherry MX equivalent to Romer-G.

Somewhat like a mix of red and brown.

I love my WASD Code keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches, Amazon sent me this tester accidentally with one of my orders and it actually convinced me to get a Cherry MX Brown keyboard (after feeling how wonderful mechanical keys felt I needed to buy one.)

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/_thirdeyeopener_ · 5 pointsr/projectcar

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

u/hippocratic_oaf · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.

As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] ( site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.


  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/DeathPro · 2 pointsr/gaming

I had an MX Blue keyboard for about 3 months until I just couldn't stand it anymore so I bought the same one but with browns and I love it so much the perfect amount of resistance and noise.

Here's a link to the key tester I have.

There are others with more or less keys but this one is pretty good.

u/BrownNote · 1 pointr/Jeep

It can be really useful for any lights that come on. If you see yourself fiddling with your own cars in the future and have a bit of disposable income you could get a nice high quality one like this which will do everything you need, or you could get something as simple as this one to take care of most of your needs. Autel is a good brand, I also have a bluetooth one that connects to any app on your phone (or computer) which can also be convenient, and depending on the app can be useful giving you real-time data.

Note that for this issue specifically, you'd need the former one I linked as the airbag system (SRS) and ABS system run on a specialiszed part of the system and can't be read by normal code readers. So if you just figure you won't do much you could get the $15 reader for quick troubleshooting and take it to Autozone like you're doing for when big things come up.

u/bmorocks · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.

Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.

The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.

u/Tqwen · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

In MPG? Not sure honestly, my gas gauge is inconsistent and I haven't driven it long distance in a few weeks. Though if you believe the gauge, 45 miles (40 highway) cost about a quarter tank, about 8.5 gallons. So that'd be roughly 5MPG but like I said, I don't know how much I trust it given how I only had a quarter tank to start with.

I was going to order this to have a look, would you recommend it, or a different one?

Sort of glad to hear that my goof probably isn't what caused it, and if it's just that emissions thing I won't bother for now since it got inspected in November last year, still plenty of time. But as soon as I'm done typing this I'll hit up AutoZone and see if they'll read my code. Where would I go about finding out what the code means?

Edit: P0137, O2 Sensor. I don't need an inspection sticker until September, so I'm no longer worried. I'll fix it when I get the chance. Thanks for the help!

u/Braddish · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Lexol is a pretty easy catch-all when it comes to cleaning and conditioning, definitely the best bang-for-your-buck, and will minimally color/darken your shoes.

That being said, my new favorite conditioner for oil-tanned leathers (like most IR models) is Saphir Cuir Gras. Much more expensive, but for that you get a higher quality product with more natural ingredients like neatsfoot oil. Also has a very pleasant almond smell.

u/Makobeats · 1 pointr/gifs

As /u/Graspar said, you develop that muscle memory for exactly where the keyswitch will trigger. I only have to press my Cherry MX Red keys down a little past halfway before they trigger. If you add o-rings to the switches, then you can reduce both the noise (which, I have to admit, is satisfying) and the impact when you're typing hard enough to bottom out. You can also type very quietly with linear switches if you don't bottom out. However, I will note that this takes some getting used to. During the first month or two of typing on Reds, I got a LOT of nuisance triggers. But that goes away as your typing becomes a little more accurate. If you want to know what a mechanical keyboard that uses Cherry MX switches will feel like without either meeting someone with one or without dropping $100+ on a keyboard, you could order a sampler, which costs about $16 (note: call any local computer specialty stores in your area, particularly ones that build custom gaming PCs or have a focus on PC gaming - they might just have one already that you can play with!)

On top of the feeling of mechanical keyboards (I mean, honestly, it just feels nice to type on reds. I have a friend who looks at me funny for preferring to type on reds instead of browns, but to each their own. That being said, I even like the tactile feedback of my laptop keys, and I occasionally enjoy the "mushy" feel of rubber domes. They're just different, and a lot of people prefer them), many offer n-key rollover (or some other high number), meaning that you can press as many keys as you want to on the board and it will tell the computer that you're pressing every single one. Cheaper keyboards will tend to have limited rollover due to the way the keyboard matrix is laid out, whereas more expensive keyboards are more likely to be have the matrix laid out with diodes that allows for high rollover. I honestly don't know enough to explain how this works, so you'll have to either wait for someone more knowledgeable or go to Google. But because mechanical keyboards usually end up on the "more expensive" side, they tend to have that high rollover. Gamers often find high rollover desirable because it reduces the likelihood that an input will not be received because you're holding down a key.

u/Caelrie · 1 pointr/harmonica

When it's time to polish the metal, head to your local version of Walmart or Amazon and pick up some aluminum polish. I use Mother's. It's strong enough to work on the metals harmonicas use, but also pretty gentle. Just rub that on and if your cloth starts going black it's working. Get that elbow grease going and every few minutes wipe it off so you can see your progress. Repeat until fine scratches are gone and it's shiny new.

If you have deeper scratches, then you'll need to use sandpaper in increasingly finer grades first. 120 -> 220 -> 400 -> 1000 -> aluminum polish will take a seriously messed up cover plate to shiny new in about 15 minutes total. It's pretty easy to do.

This pack of sandpaperwill do hundreds of harps

Mother's polish

u/Bloodhoof · 3 pointsr/leaf

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up:

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

u/Excelius · 7 pointsr/pittsburgh

Fair point regarding peripherals you physically interact with, like keyboards and mice. I was thinking you were talking more about components like processors, RAM, and so forth. I recently went through a similar ordeal trying to find a gaming headset I liked.

Stores like Best Buy and Staples will usually have one mechanical keyboard in stock, but it's hit or miss as to whether they'll have a demo unit on display for you to touch and feel. Doesn't help much if there's a physical box in front of you, but you can't open it to get a feel for the product.

My wife has been considering a mechanical keyboard, and she actually bought this switch tester that lets you get a feel for the different switch types. It was helpful to rule out the ones I definitely wouldn't want, but without being able to see on-screen response and have an entire set of keys under hand it still wasn't the demo I would have hoped for.

(I'm conflicted between the Cherry red and brown types. Red seems to be the one you'll find most commonly in mass-market mechanical keyboards.)

u/radiance89 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power. is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

u/b_lett · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Maybe it's just an exception what happened for me, but the electrical contact cleaner I used left a little bit of a sticky residue, so it's possible it did not dry properly after ending up on the pins.

I used the same contact cleaner consistently recommended here, and I can't say it evaporates completely as suggested. On the back it even says "Allow to dry thoroughly and vent before reactivating. Product may collect and pool in unseen areas."

I worked a few years in electronic retail and tech support, and have an IT certification, so I promise I've tried to do my research in troubleshooting my own issues. I've heard of the tape method, and read about replacing the plastic latches with metal latches at the top; but in my case, I do believe I needed more than anything to clean the pins. Any combination of these can only help.

u/yotimes · 1 pointr/BmwTech

Got a smart phone?

Reader 1

Reader 2

I don't know how shipping works to Canada, but it isn't too expensive of a product, and I am sure you can find it locally. It is a very handy tool.

That sounds like pretty good fuel econ lol. With my tune my 335i gets around 14-18 MPG

u/devianteng · 1 pointr/guns

I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block] if you like things to be easy.

I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.

u/punkonjunk · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

just as an FYI, that topcoat is garbo and won't last as long as you'd like. this stuff is amazing:

BUT very toxic, and you must wear a good mask with it, like this one at a minimum.

the customGCC community also dabbles in pro controllers and joycons and is an amazing learning resource if you are looking for more information on doing this, and doing custom buttons as well! I have learned SO MUCH about painting in just the last couple months I've been there.

u/JayVeeDi · 4 pointsr/frugalmalefashion

I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.

The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.

Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.

I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.

If I'm able to ill post pics of them.

EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.

Here you go.

u/JoeyOhhh · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

u/joheinous · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Switches are the thing that tell when you press the key, certain switches do certain things. Blue ones tend to be loud but satisfying. Red ones are sort of in the middle between quiet and loud. This is a guide. If you are planning on spending a lot on a keyboard you can get a tester kit and test each switch to see which would suit you best. You could also make a trip out to best buy or your local tech store to try out the keyboard they have on display.

u/AWildAnonHasAppeared · 3 pointsr/cars

This seems to be the best one out there for $25

Everyone is talking about how awesome and essential it is. Mine should be arriving tomorrow too which is awesome. Good luck!

u/-0-7-0- · 2 pointsr/teenagers

Okay so for your first, you def want to buy a pre-built one, since building your own with parts takes both a lot of keyboard knowledge and a lot of money. I would, personally, suggest either getting a CoolerMaster (any model is good) or a Vortex Pok3r, since they both have relatively good stock keycaps and are well-priced. Before that, if you have $10-15, then I would really advise getting a switch tester so you can decide what type of switches you like. It's better than spending $100+ on a keyboard you don't like. To address your last concern of not liking the board, you can sell a "nicer" keyboard on r/mechmarket, a sub for buying and selling boards, and probably come close to breaking even. But to sell on mechmarket, you need a "desirable" keyboard, which is why I recommended getting a CoolerMaster or Pok3r. They're both pretty good boards/brands. No matter what, though, DO NOT get a Razer/Logitech/Steelseries/Corsair board. They're really overpriced, shit build quality, and nobody would want to buy them for more than 60% of retail on MechMarket.

Along with this, if you want a personal rundown and recommendations on switches, then just let me know.

Also, if you don't have as much $ to spend (or even if you do), I would suggest the Anne Pro board. It's hella good build quality for the price, and a lot of people say that the gateron switches on them feel better than MX switches (which both the pok3r and all of CoolerMaster's selections use.)

Also, I always recommend blue switches because of how nice the click feels to me (and BTW, cherry and gateron blue switches are pretty similar- most switch companies use a consistent coloring system for switches where blue is clicky, brown is tactile (semi-clicky), and red is linear (not clicky at all)) but it's all up to personal preference, so I would again suggest you get a tester or try some boards out at a local computer store to see which kind you like.

Hope all this helps!

u/chirmer · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I also found that my broad TWSBI had hard starts at first. I've now used it a lot (daily driver w/ my Nanami Seven Seas notebook) and it almost never dry starts now. I would imagine once you get your feed wet it'll write like a dream. How is Apache Sunset for daily use? I hear a lot that it comes out lighter in pictures than real life. Do you find it fairly legible? Tempted to get a sample - thanks!

And as /u/Ragnarok418 said, I saw the logo :) I bought a little Cooler Master doohikey that lets me test the switches, and the blue is definitely a heavy click. The sound is incredibly satisfying, indeed. I think I'll go brown, though, so I don't piss off my coworkers ;) But it's a great way to test switches without committing to an entire keyboard. Though I'd get this one if I could do it all again since it contains Cherry Clears vs. the Topre switch (which I found kinda gross and muddy).

u/on_the_nightshift · 2 pointsr/saab

My son's first car, bought this year, is an '06 9-3 2.0T as well!

These cars like to throw codes/check engine lights (CELs). Do yourself a favor and order one of these and buy "Torque Pro" from the Google Play/Apple app store. You'll have less than $30 in it all together, and it gives you some nice tools besides just the ability to read and reset codes.

As someone else said, google for any issues you have, they have likely been answered. Might as well make an account on saabcentral and saabnet. Lots of good info and knowledgeable people on those sites.

When (not if) you have to replace the coils, make sure you buy the right ones. ONLY the ones with the correct markings will work correctly. There are LOTS on the market that say they are correct, but aren't. Here's one that I know works (my son's car has 4 new ones). If you sign up for Advance's "SpeedPerks" membership (free), you'll get discounts, money back, etc. Order this stuff online, even if you're picking it up in store. Their website sometimes even has $40 off $100! Usually at least 20-30% off.

Anyways, I hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

u/HORSEtheGAME · 14 pointsr/cars

How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.

A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.

u/silentdragoon · 1 pointr/keyboards

If you want more feedback, then mechanical keyboards are certainly worth a go. The ones I suggested (linears) provide some feedback, and you can get tactile switches (e.g. mx brown) which have a tactile bump right when the key is registered as well. There are also clicky switches, which have a tactile bump and an audible click at the point of actuation as well. It's all very fun and exciting, so definitely try out a cheap mechanical board and see if you like it, or get a key tester (Amazon US link here) to see the difference between different switches. I also wrote this guide to different switches which might be helpful.

u/rsmjr · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Really matters what type of paint you are using. But I'd always wait exactly what it says on the can if not longer. Especially for sanding purposes. For clear coat I'd try to find 2 part clear coat that is activated. That is closer to professional pant then your run of the mill stuff which isn't exactly meant to be on a car and in harsh environments. I have had super good luck with finding good stuff on amazon. Example

It is only good for 48 hours. Though I'd plan the paint to be as fast and soon as possible.

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.

If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.

The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant:

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/tman37 · 3 pointsr/howto

It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.

Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.

Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner.

Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.

Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.

I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.

u/norn_necro · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL

I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's

I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.

u/mckulty · 1 pointr/Birmingham

The last kit we bought worked pretty much like we do surfacing lenses for eyeglasses.. coarse grit, fine grit, polish. Pretty sure it's the same high-impact polycarbonate.

Just saying, if you follow the instructions and apply proper elbow grease, the 3M kit worked great for us. I recommend a kit you use with your cordless drill.

u/Snapchat_trap · 1 pointr/starterpacks

Alright I'll rephrase myself, Most modern cars should not have plastic being sucked into the engine block. That is pretty much the only way plastic is going to get onto that sensor that was installed correctly since it's placed right at the exit of the header, or in the header if the engineers felt the need to use more than one upstream sensor (depends on engine). If that is the case than there most definitely is either a hole in the tubing after the filter (What I said previously), there's a hole in your exhaust (But since exhaust has positive pressure I find it unlikely that plastic would get into any holes) Or your intake filter is installed incorrectly/not installed.

Since you know a lot about cars I'll assume you have an obd2 sensor, but if not you can pick one up on amazon for around 10-20$

An OBD2 will be able to tell you if your mass airflow sensor is malfunctioning because it will be getting readings from that sensor, You should definitely check that before replacing the ECU.

Also on most Duramax engine (I only have experience with the Focus and the Fiesta ST but this is true with most vehicles) the upstream O2 sensor is both easy to get to and easy to test, you won't need to jack up your car, just pop the hood.

u/vinnyvecchio · 3 pointsr/cars

That's what I assumed unfortunately.

I got a $20 scanner on Amazon, and it can check inspection monitors. It's a simple tool, but it will go through the list of monitors (evap, cat, etc.) and tell me if it is ready or not.

I guess I will just have to hope for the best if I don't see any CELs. Thanks for the answer!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Neighbor used bug spray to show me how great it would "restore" her headlights. I have already explained that is not a great method.

What's the best way to go about fixing what she did? I'm just planning to wash it and maybe throw some Collinite845 or PlastX on it. (I won't be going through an entire restoration process, at best I'd use the TurtleWax box kit as I've read it's the best off-the-shelf product.)

u/Combatical · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

G502 for the mouse, as for keyboard, youre going to want to start getting into the mechanical keyboard game.. And there are many types of switches with different feels to them. Get yourself a switch tester and try out the different kinds of keys and see which one you like the feel of the best.. My personal favorite are browns, but it varies widely from person to person. After that, check out the folks over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards they are pretty helpful and super knowledgeable on the topic.

u/Tomimi · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

u/jermvirus · 2 pointsr/BmwTech

Let me start by saying i think i over did it, but I am happy with the results

Let's start with what I purchased:

  1. Turtle Wax 50764 Drill-Based Headlight Restorer
  2. 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System
  3. Turtle Wax T-43 (2-in-1) Headlight Cleaner and Sealant - 9 oz

    Then this is the process I used:

  4. Start dry sanding with 3M #1 and then #2 Disc
  5. Wet sand with Turtle wax #1 > #2 and finally 3M #3 disc
  6. Buff with Turtle Wax compound, repeat this step until i was happy
  7. Apply clear coat from TurtleWax kit
  8. Apply sealant from TurtleWax kit

    I plan to touch up with the TurleWax sealant every 8 weeks.

u/Trisomic · 145 pointsr/DIY

Total cost: $31.70

Time: ~30 minutes.
Tools required: Hand drill

Now that it gets dark so damn early, I've been using my headlights a lot more, and I noticed that they weren't as bright as they used to be. So, on the advice of a coworker, I picked up THIS headlight restoration kit from amazon, as well as THIS sealer and THIS masking tape (to protect the paint around the lens). The directions were clear and concise and the whole process took about 30 minutes and was extremely easy. It comes with an attachment for your hand drill to which a variety of sanding/buffing discs mount. You start with a coarse grit sandpaper disc to remove the oxidation and then you use progressively finer grit discs to smooth out the surface. Finally you buff and seal the lens.

I couldn't be happier with the results. The lenses look brand new and there are enough sanding discs left over to do at least one or two more cars.

u/DrRocuronium · 1 pointr/FordDiesels

Get an OASIS report (w/ VIN) from the local Ford dealer to let you know what she has been through (at least while under warranty)

\> there was an exhaust smell when stopped at lights

I have no exhaust or muffler on my 6.0 and don't smell any exhaust when stopped, so that is curious.

I would recommend buying an OBDII scanner from Amazon ($20) if you don't have one (regardless if you follow through with this truck or not it is great to have for all of your other vehicles). They make them with Bluetooth so you can download an app (Torque Pro) for your phone and check/clear codes as well as live data monitoring. It's what a lot of us Ford guys do until we get a tuner that monitors data.

Here is a video that shows what I'm talking about.

That way you can go on another test drive while monitoring the PIDs. Let the truck warm up (180+ F for both oil and coolant) and then hop on the freeway and set the cruise control at 55 mph. Keep it there (on flat ground) for about 15 minutes and monitor the difference between those two temperatures. If they get above 15 degrees apart the truck has a failed oil cooler.

Check the degas bottle and oil for any obvious signs of head gasket issues. Make sure the coolant in that degas bottle is clean (free from particulate) and not milky - likewise with the oil.

Injectors are the other finicky devil with these trucks. When you click the truck onto the on position, keep the door open and listen to the injectors clatter as the spool valves open and close. This is most telling on a bone-cold engine that hasn't been started that day. Those things should clatter fast and evenly. If they start slowly clattering and ramp up their speed as they clatter that could indicate sludge/stiction gauming up the spool valves which leads to contribution issues. Another app called Car Gauge Pro allows you to do a "buzz test" to check for bad injectors by individually buzzing each injector to let you listen. Here is an awesome video that shows how to do that.

I wish I would have known those tips before I bought my baby. Good on you for being far less impulsive than me. With 20 minutes of SUPER easy tests, you can give yourself a really good idea of what kind of shape the truck is in.

Head gasket, oil cooler, and injectors are the big three to keep on your radar with 6.0s. If those are all working properly and the 282k miles doesn't scare you I'd go for it - that's just my 2 cents though.

You better post a picture of that baby if you end up pulling the trigger.

u/onewheeldrive619 · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Yeah it's Autozone automotive color in a can and Eastwood 2K epoxy two part clear in a can. To be honest, I didn't do enough prep on my first effort and you could see some imperfections in the tank so I stripped it and started over. With the right amount of primer/filler and careful sanding, I'm amazed how good the finished product looks. A little bike tank and covers is easy. I can't believe people paint whole cars with rattle cans!

u/ouchcube · 3 pointsr/goodyearwelt

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

u/FlynnThatHuman · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:

u/Addy711 · 1 pointr/simracing

My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.

A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.

With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well

u/iamsaver · 1 pointr/prius

I've done the same using the 3m kit, which includes a drill attachment. Super easy and effective. Hardest part was masking the painted areas first. Most people recommend putting some sort of wax, so I picked a wipe on product too.

Headlight restoration kit

Clear coat

u/burkholderia · 3 pointsr/Bass

A few that have come up a couple times

Radio interference

Radio in amps is a common problem, especially if you're near a transmitter.
First thing you want to do is rule out pieces of gear that aren't contributing to the problem. If the instrument isn't shielded you can have issues there, try another bass if possible.

If the shielding on your instrument cable is breaking down this can cause problem, try another cable if you can.

If you are using any pedals start with none and add them in one at a time until you get the issue to reoccur. If the problem is a pedal, you can solder a treble bleed cap across the hot/ground connections on the output jack of that pedal, use something like a 5 or 10pf and it should only filter off the very very high frequencies (like radio frequency).
If the issue is before the amp you can try a ferrite bead on the end of the cable before the amp. I tried this once and it didn't work for me, but it's a common recommendation.

If it is definitely the amp there are a few things you can try. The small cap trick I mentioned above for the pedal can work if you do it across the terminals of the input jack on the amp. If the amp is a tube amp make sure that there is a tube shield on the first gain stage. Check to see if there are grid stopper resistors on the first gain stage, you can change the value of the resistors to lower the frequency cutoff.

If there is no grid stopper and you want to add one, you can calculate what resistor to use. R = 1/ (2 PI f C). C is the input capacitance of the tube in farads, f is the low pass cutoff frequency in Hz, PI is constant 3.14, R is in ohms. The input capacitance C = CGK + (CGA A) where A is the voltage gain of the stage, CGK is the grid-to-cathode capacitance and CGA is the grid-to-anode capacitance of the tube. The latter two values are found in the tube's data sheet. For a 12AX7 with a gain stage designed with A to be 60, C is about 103 pF. Let's say you want to cut off everything above 20 kHz. R = 1/(2 3.14 20000 103 10^-12), which is about 80 K ohms.

Some amps just have an issue with internal wiring layout, you can try to move wires around to limit noise, but it can be tricky and dangerous because you have to have the amp open and on.

Don't poke around inside an amp unless you know what you're doing. Some of these things will likely need to be done by a tech.


The easiest thing to try is moving your setup to another room or another position in the room to rule out sympathetic vibrations. If you've ruled out room issues check all the mounting screws on the speaker/cabinet and your amp. Check to see if the vibration is frequency specific (does it happen at octaves of different notes) or if it only occurs at low frequencies. With a frequency specific vibration you issue is something resonating and once you can find the problematic component you can try to alleviate that issue. If the rattle is only caused by high levels of low frequency and not specific to a frequency then it could simply be a loose panel or bad seal around the speaker or jack plates. Check the speaker mounting seal, it should be tight against the baffle. If needed you can add some gasket tape to ensure a good seal.


There is a fantastic primer on tubes available on the Talkbass Portaflex Wiki that covers all of this in far greater detail, but for some basic troubleshooting there are a few things that are worth mentioning.

With any tube amp, the tubes are the primary suspect for weird noises and other issues. They're more likely to have issues than other passive and mechanical components. It's always a good idea to keep a known good spare of each type of preamp tube in your amp available for troubleshooting purposes. Preamp tubes in general can last many years to decades in most amps, but a good place to start if you suspect that you have tube issues is replacing the first gain stage (V1) of the amplifier. From there try swapping tubes one at a time until you reach the power tubes. If this has not solved your problem there may be an issue with a mechanical component (pots, jacks, switches) or a failing passive component (caps, resistors, etc). If the amp blows a fuse, especially a high voltage (often labeled HT) fuse, the usual suspect is failing power tubes. Swapping the tubes can be a good first step, but fuses blow for a reason and the amp should be checked over by a tech. If a power tube fails suddenly it can damage the screen, plate, or cathode resistors and simply replacing the tube with a new tube would put that new tube at risk for similar failure. In general, if the amp has a tube power section and has started to sound bland or has issues with the power dropping off you should check and possibly replace the power tubes.

Scratchy/static noise

A simple starting point for any kind of static noise is to check for loose jacks or bad cables. Frequently this kind of noise is due to bad or dirty contacts. A product like Deoxit in combination with a small brush or swab is good for cleaning contacts and connections. You can go simple and spray some onto a jack and use a 1/4" plug to run across the contact surface a few times, but a more thorough cleaning is better. With scratchy pots you can spray deoxit/contact cleaner into the mechanism and move the pot a few (hundred) times to clean the contact surface. If this fails to address the issue you may need to replace the pot. If the amp has an effects loop or speaker output that is unused these contacts can get dirty from time to time and a cleaning may be beneficial.

u/illregal · 1 pointr/subaru

Don't use armor all on any interior or exterior pieces of your vehicle if you care about it.
This is some of the best stuff for your dash/console.
Lexol is pretty good for leather, or check out chemical guys whole line of products for a good price to performance ratio.

u/gh0stmach1ne · 2 pointsr/civic

I used this and this

The 3M kit does the actual headlight restoration and the Sylvania kit finishes it off and seals it. The sealing kit reeeeeaaaaally makes it pop. Both companies make full kits that do both, but I went off of the recommendation of a guy on r/integra for these products and it worked like a charm 👌🏻

u/agayvoronski · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

u/TransientBananaBread · 2 pointsr/buildapc
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.74 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B250 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $95.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB ARMOR 8G OC Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Jet
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | LG Neo Blade III 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $249.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Glorious PC Gaming Race Glorious Gaming Wired Gaming Keyboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $57.98 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech Z200 0W 2ch Speakers | $20.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1475.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 20:52 EST-0500 |


- If you are planning on seriously getting into animation or rendering, you will want an i7 for the hyper threading. If you stick with the 7600K though, you will need to get a Z270 motherboard or you risk getting a motherboard whose BIOS needs to be updated to use the 7600K. Gave you a locked 7700 and changed the MOBO and removed the cooler (7700 comes with one).

- An RX 480 will do 1080p 60 FPS just fine and save you quite a bit of money.

- Since you are more focused on productivity, I gave you a case with no window and noise dampening insulation. If you need a lot of storage space, get the R5.

- 550W is plenty for the build.

For keyboards, it really comes down to personal preference with all the options available. See if you have a local shop that has some mechanical keyboards you can try (Best Buy might have some as well). If that isn't an option, buy a switch tester to try and get an idea what kind of feel you want on your keyboard.

I don't know enough to comment on the monitor.
u/cweagans · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Start by choosing what kind of switches you want, and then find a keyboard that has those switches. I'd recommend grabbing one of these: It's just a row of switches on a plate so that you can hear/feel each one before you commit to an entire keyboard.

For Cherry switches (which is what that WASD tester has), you'll probably want non-clicky, which means that anything other than green or blue is a good option. Clears and browns have a small bump that you can feel as you press the key, and then red and black are just linear switches that you have to bottom out to get them to activate. There's some difference on the amount of force required to press each key too (greens are "heavier" than blues, clears > brows, black > red), so take that into account.

When you land on a switch, WASD Keyboards has a decent selection with any of the aforementioned switches.

Personally, if I couldn't have clicky switches (I like blues and greens), I'd go with clears. They're about as silent as you can get, especially if you add the O rings on the stems ( - basically, you lift off the key cap, put the o ring on the keycap stem, and then put the keycap back on. Repeat for all your keys. They prevent the keys from bottoming out and making a louder sound. Useful if you type aggressively with purpose like I do)

u/MBAH2017 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.

That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.

Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.

u/exxxidor · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.

Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.

If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.

Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go.

u/moelost · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

u/redditmakesyoudumb · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

u/g0atmeal · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

RGB is dependent on the user, but when you go mechanical you never go back. Invest in one of these:

and determine your favorite type. For gamers, it's usually red or brown switches. Reds don't have a "bump", but just go straight down with no resistance. So I recommend browns.

The K70 has both red and brown options. They feel quite different, so don't just pick one randomly. If you have any questions, PM me or post to /r/mechanicalkeyboards where we'd be glad to help.

u/Audaxon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Corsair K70 RGB can be customized using their software to get a purple backlighting effect. It's a gaming keyboard though, so it's built like a tank and a little bulkier.

Ducky Shines can have purple led backlights. They are a little more elegant for an office as well.

Cherry MX Brown switches (no click when you type, just a bump) for an office, Cherry MX Blues (audible click sound) for home. IMO, Blues are more fun.

Cheaper switches more or less follow the same color code, though a switch tester could help you decide what you like

u/sparkie172 · 2 pointsr/subaru

You can go to autozone or wherever they check for you then look up online as code is generic. Each brand has their own specific meaning for the code. Before my cobb I used a Bluetooth obd2 reader 20$ online then used torque app from Android store free version to check and clear codes. It also does some pretty cool stuff for the paid version. The obd2 reader is small which I liked. I had 1 like this.

u/QueenElizatits · 1 pointr/fringefashion

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.

1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap

2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.

3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.

4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil

That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/Fubs261 · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

u/basilis120 · 1 pointr/Axecraft

Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.

For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.

u/Flipper303 · 3 pointsr/BmwTech

I'm going to be straight with you. Save 50-100$ and buy yourself a bluetooth scanner. I bought this an installed the app Torque Lite (free) it has saved me so much cash it's not funny. BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner

Plug it in, itll pull the codes from your car, you can look them up on forums and boom. Diagnosis for free. I hope this helps!

I've been taken too the cleaners too many times. Those people run a business and need to make money. Some do it honestly, some dont.


u/ngostout · 2 pointsr/DIY

This stuff is pretty good at making damn near anything glossy.

It's also really tough and holds up nicely in weather of all sorts and sun; I use it on my motorcycle builds. Best of all it drys fast. But be warned, it is toxic, so use a mask and do it in a WELL ventilated area. Also make sure you keep the helmet spotless clean before you apply it because it will seal everything in permanently.

u/tquiring · 2 pointsr/Acura

This is the one i bought and used, took about an hour for each headlight, you will need an electric drill and a roll of painters tape.
Pro Tip: Put lots of tape around each headlight at least 3 layers thick (because you WILL hit it with the sandpaper)

I was skeptical before i tried doing this, but it actually worked really really well. Best of Luck.

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.

>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/FPFan · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

u/k_ba · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

3m kit - 14 bucks on amazon. It has a final rubbing compound after the sanding. Then seal it once again, and you are good.

I took some terrible forester headlights to perfectly clear and beautiful with it. AND it allows you to use your drill to polish. Which makes it WAY better.

u/The_Friskies · 1 pointr/Harley

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

u/bigfriendben · 2 pointsr/goodyearwelt

Sure! Essentially I bought this lexol set and followed their instructions.

I used several different rags and probably cleaned each boot with the cleaner for a minimum of 30 minutes each, probably more. Basically just scrubbing and scrubbing until little to no brown coloring would show up on the white rag when I scrubbed it.

After that, I let it dry for a few minutes and then applied the lexol leather conditioner, because the cleaner pretty much strips all of the good oils and stuff out of the leather (disclaimer, I really don't know all that much). I conditioned it again a couple of weeks later just to make sure it wasn't drying out if I hadn't conditioned it enough the first time. That's pretty much it!

u/Ol_No_Name · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Considering you have so much time to choose, getting a switch tester is a great option because it will let you know the EXACT switches you're going to want now, for any board in the future, and any friends that will want to get a mech too, making for an even better investment. Here are some links to good testers that I know of.

A tester with the most common Cherry MX Switches

This one comes with a Novatouch Topre instead of an MX Clear Other sites to get this one from here and here.

If you want Gaterons too

u/robofrogmage · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey everyone. I've been lurking this subreddit for about two months now, but finally decided to join when I saw that a meetup was happening literally 40 minutes from my house.

Anyway, I'm somewhat new to mechanical keyboards, though I have a general knowledge about them. I actually purchased two mechanical keyboards about a year ago from, come to find out after lurking the subreddit, a less-than-reputable company (hint: it rhymes with Boar's Hair ;) ).

Needless to say, I'm interested in upgrading my work and home keyboards in the coming months. I've currently own Cherry MX Red (home use) and Brown (work use) boards, and I actually have the Coolermaster and WASD switch testers. After doing some research, I'm looking at the KUL ES-87 (Clear), Leopold FC660C, WASD Code V2 88-Key (Clear), and Topre Realforce 87U (55g) as potential upgrades. Hopefully, I'll be able to try several of these boards out in person next weekend.

I'll definitely try to make it if I don't oversleep. I'll also try to bring a 6-pack of something for the community cooler.

u/carter31119311 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro

I just want to mention, I do strongly recommend investing in a real one if you want an odb scanner. I keep this one with me because it's small, and cheap, and like i said, it's usually right, but not always completely correct. Is it worth $10-$11 dollars? Sure! Do I ALWAYS trust it? Not always.

u/nameisgeogga · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.

Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (, Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.

Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:

  1. Clean that shit up. Wet rag and also a horse brush to clean barnacles off the shoes. If you get a really bad stain or some shitty residue, use leather cleaner.

  2. Allow to dry.

  3. Use a rag or cloth and apply a small amount of conditioner everywhere (not soles obviously...). Do your best not to use too much. Pea shape? IDK, spot another guide. So like at most pea shape.

  4. Dry.

  5. GGEZ

    5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip

    Repeat every blue moon or something.
u/zakats · 2 pointsr/Sprint

>not sell to yourself but to sell to others

I hear ya, but I think I covered this angle in my OP.

> diagnostic reports, access to certified mechanics, and AAA assistance

I've got a lot more experience as a mechanic than as a cellular salesman, what you just said there is the sort of horseshit sales pitch that's as shallow as 'pay us extra, cuz money' that corporate is always trying to push. I don't blame you, and I feel a little bad for telling you this because disabusing you of the nonsense that they've fed you will make your job harder, but there's nearly 0 real utility to it that can't be done with the phone people are already paying for.. which is why carriers love to sell them, it's high margin value added frivolousness.

This is a better diagnostic tool than any connected hokum being sold by carriers and it's ~$10. With a free or ~$5 app, there's a lot of information and help at your fingertips that can be read or shared.

>You may not want a tablet with a data plan, but a single mom without WiFi may want to give her kids one, or a college kid who needs something to take notes or draw on the go, small time YouTuber, etc.

Like I said, I don't represent everyone, but a lot of that doesn't resemble what you find in many areas. YMMV, but it can be a tall order and I don't feel like OP is lying to us.

u/BlanchDolor · 2 pointsr/mazda

I'm new to the Mazda club as well ('16 CX-5 GT), and I've read on other forums that 303 is very popular for cleaning and protecting vinyl and leather on car interiors.

I just bought some, and plan to test it on the wife's car first to make sure everything checks out :) I'll be interested to hear what others recommend.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this:

u/genetic_bloom · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.

u/eclectro · 5 pointsr/Showerthoughts

All scanners are not the same, some are better than others.

This is probably the best BIFL "value buy" scanner that works with all cars with obdII interface.

And the Torque app works great with it too.

u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/RodBlaine · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

u/doitskippy · 1 pointr/motocamping

[This] ( and [this (better of the two I have installed, if I had to choose)] ( are what I have installed. I have the second item on each of my two bikes, the first is only on my V-Strom because I keep adding electrical farkles and wanted a volt meter.

Looks like the second item is listed as unavailable, at least from that seller. I will say that the second item's rubber cover is more confidence inspiring than the first. The second one also gives you the option of mounting it to your handlebars or taking the bracket off and panel-mounting it. Nice long cord, sturdy construction, comes with a mid-line tap so you can tap the + line of something that's switched so the thing turns off with the key. Don't do what I did on my SV and tap your headlight, because when you switch to the high beam you'll lose your charger. Or, do it if you have a shitty charging system, because you'll want those watts back when you're switching to high beam. Tail light is better option as the line goes live with the key and stays that way always.

If I didn't have a nice place to mount the first item, I'd probably hate it, and it also requires that you wire the thing yourself. The good thing is for a rather decent price you get a nice little volt meter for your bike's battery that's fairly accurate.

The simplest solution, especially if you already have a SAE (the battery tender plug) installed, is to get this little item, made by Battery Tender. Cheap, easy, plug and play. In fact, I just noticed it's now on Prime, so I ordered one for my gf's bike (thanks for getting me to look it up again with your question).

If you don't have a battery tender hookup installed already, well, you should get one. [Here's another handy link] ( to the quite reasonably priced Battery Tender JR which makes a great trickle charger for your bike, comes with the plug (edit, for clarity it doesn't come with the USB plug but the thing you need to use the battery tender or the USB), and little jumper cables to stick under your seat.

u/betterusername · 1 pointr/Audi

Ross tech makes a great cable with software (Windows) included, but they go from $$$ to $$$$$. You can buy a cheap OBDII bluetooth interface like this one (works pretty well) and an app like Torque pro or Carista (expensive monthly subscription required for anything beyond actually OBD2 protocol codes), but it's not as full featured as Ross Tech's.

You can also look on something like AudiZine for someone near you, or take it to any Audi specialty shop.

What are you trying to do with it?

u/MustacheRabbit · 1 pointr/Trackballs

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

u/slyboy889 · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!

u/cmharvey27 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.

u/Enemyboatspotted · 1 pointr/mazda

Yea, there are better options but until I get an accessport I'm using this adapter with the Torque Pro app.

Here is an example of a run at WOT I logged to make sure my hpfp was working properly for example

Good luck