(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive

We found 43,458 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 19,913 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

24. Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.

    Features:
  • SIMPLY THE BEST WATERLESS CAR WASH. Gently Cleans and Protects while leaving a Non-Stick UV Protective Coating on All Vehicle surfaces both Inside and Out. Also, compatible with all other waxes, sealants, and ceramic coatings. Just Spray on and Wipe Dry. Wash and Wax Anywhere, Anytime, Parking Lots, Garages, Work, School, Apartments, RV Parks, and more. 144oz will Waterless Wash up to 28 cars or Wax As You Dry 36 cars. Also, excellent on ALL Interior surfaces. Leather, Vinyl, Plastic, & Glass.
  • Highly performance Aircraft Quality Wax for your Car, Boat, and RV. ONCE YOU SEE THE DIFFERENCE YOU WILL NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS AGAIN! Used by Air Force One, Marine One, NASA, The Military, Airlines, Corporate and private aircraft owners around the world for over 35 years. This is a high quality easy to use product.
  • Water Based - Alcohol & Ammonia Free. Our plant-based Eco-friendly formula is biodegradable and Safe on ALL surfaces both Inside and Out. Meets Boeing Aircraft (D6-17487P, D6-7127M), Airbus Industries (09-00-002), and McDonnell Douglass CDS #1 cleaning specifications. Also, Human Friendly, NO eye or skin irritation like some other automotive products
  • Kit includes 1 full gallon of Wash Wax ALL, 1 full 16 oz spray bottle of Wash Wax ALL, 4 Microfiber Towels (16 in x 16 in), Mini Aero Bug Scrubber, Product Guide, and How to Use Guide.
  • ⚠️ Note: Understand that this is a Wash and Wax Product. Wax will protect and enhance the shine you currently have. If you have dull, oxidized, or scratched finish you will need a Polish to address those issues. WAX IS FOR PROTECTION; POLISH IS FOR CORRECTION. Our polish is called Polish ALL and is also available on Amazon. 100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE. If you are not getting 5 star results out of this 5-star product, please give us a chance to correct the issue. Please contact us.
Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.
Specs:
ColorBlue
Height11 Inches
Length9 Inches
Size144 fl. oz Car Wash Kit
Weight11 Pounds
Width5 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

33. MEGUIAR'S D10101 All Purpose Cleaner

    Features:
  • Ideal for reconditioning most interior surfaces
  • Active foaming action lifts dirt
  • Fabric softeners enhance luxurious results
MEGUIAR'S D10101 All Purpose Cleaner
Specs:
ColorFactory
Height7 Inches
Length4.4 Inches
Number of items1
Size1 Pack
Weight8.85 Pounds
Width11.45 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on automotive

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where automotive are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 707
Number of comments: 90
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 496
Number of comments: 98
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 326
Number of comments: 137
Relevant subreddits: 57
Total score: 253
Number of comments: 149
Relevant subreddits: 10
Total score: 181
Number of comments: 48
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 177
Number of comments: 109
Relevant subreddits: 6
Total score: 173
Number of comments: 61
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 133
Number of comments: 72
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 106
Number of comments: 50
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 49
Number of comments: 49
Relevant subreddits: 2

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Automotive:

u/jauntworthy · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

  • McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  • Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.

    BUCKETS

  • Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  • Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  • Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.


    CHEMICALS

  • Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  • Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  • Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  • Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  • Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.


    INTERIOR

  • Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.


    WHEELS

  • Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  • Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  • Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  • Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  • ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.


    TOWELS

  • Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  • THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  • THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  • Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.
u/Mod3_freak · 10 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

  • Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  • Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  • NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.

    Tesla OEM

  • Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  • Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  • Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.

    Detailing

  • Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  • Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  • Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  • Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  • Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.

    Third-Party

  • Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  • Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  • Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  • Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  • Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  • Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  • Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  • Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  • Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  • Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.
u/2old2care · 14 pointsr/audiophile

It looks beautiful, obviously stored in good conditions. I'm not sure how it works, but my bet is it will take very little to get it going. The tubes are likely OK because these amplifiers are used very few hours compared to commercial equipment. The main thing to check is the filter capacitors. The other capacitors and resistors are likely OK if it's been stored in an air conditioned area. Also, changes in values of these will not cause damage when the unit is powered up. It will likely be necessary to clean all the controls and switches, too.

Having restored a lot of older equipment, here's what I would do before turning it on:

  1. With the unit out of the cabinet and disconnected from power, use an ohmmeter to be sure you don't have a short from the "hot" terminals of the four main electrolytic filter capacitors (the ones mounted on top of the chassis with the tubes) and chassis ground. With an analog ohmmeter, you should be able to reverse the test leads and see a "kick" when you first touch the terminal. Reverse again, kick again. This shows the capacitors are not "open". After a few seconds, the resistance should be above about 50K ohms. Also carefully inspect the unit for anything that may look burned or discolored. (If you don't have a high resistance or get the kick, you'll need to ohmmeter-test the capacitors individually. This means they will each have to be disconnected, and things get more complicated.)

  2. Carefully remove the tubes and plug them back in, one at a time. Be sure they are always in the same socket they came out of! It's a good idea to remove and replace each tube several times to remove oxidation. The sockets for these tubes are self-wiping so this action tends to clean the tube pins and restore solid connections. It's not a bad idea to wash the tubes carefully with dishwashing liquid, rinse them fully and let them completely dry. You could also wash the removable tube shields while you're at it. This will remove dust and help keep the tubes cool and potentially remove leakage paths that can cause electrical noise.

  3. If above seems OK, remove the rectifier tube (I think a 5U4 or 5R4--but it's the largest tube and the only one that starts with a 5). Be sure the fuse is OK (check with an ohmmeter), then plug it in and turn it on. You should see all the tube filaments and pilot light come on. This will confirm that the tubes and power transformer are likely OK. Be aware that from now on, there are LETHAL voltages in this amplifier! Treat it with respect! Don't touch anything inside when the power is on, and be wary that the filter capacitors can hold high voltages for a considerable length of time after the unit is turned off and unplugged.

  4. From here on, the question is, "How brave are you?" Before you power it on, connect a speaker to each of the output terminals - 4, 8, or 16 ohms as applicable. If in doubt, connect the speakers to the 8-ohm terminals. This is important because tube amplifiers always need a load, and because you can hear any hum or noise that may be present.

  5. If the previous tests passed, I'd be inclined to give it a full power-on check, but being ready to pull the plug quickly if needed. At this stage, the mostly likely thing to happen is a dramatic failure of a filter capacitor, usually in the form of some hissing noises and bad-smelling smoke. This will happen about 5 seconds after you plug in the power. If you pull the plug at the slightest hint of a problem, there won't be a lot of damage other than the capacitors that are already bad. If it's a really serious problem, the fuse on the back will probably blow at this point.

  6. If you don't want to do the smoke test as described, you can try bringing up the voltage to the amplifier gradually using a variac, starting at about 30-40 volts, gradually bringing it up to a normal 120 volts if there is no smoke or noise. This makes the smoke test slower and more controllable. A cheaper test is to wire a 60-watt light bulb in series with the AC power cord. When you switch on the power, the lamp should come up to near full brightness in a few of seconds, then get dimmer, then after about 15-30 seconds come up to to maybe half brightness. If that seems OK, set the input to PHONO and turn the volume all the way up. You should be able to hear at least some noise in the speakers. A quiet hiss is good, a low hum is ok. A loud hum is not OK. If you get a 120 Hz. hum, that's caused by bad filter capacitors and you'll need to replace them. If it's a 60-Hz hum, it may be something else and may go away with a proper input connected.

  7. If it passes the smoke test and doesn't blow the fuse, you're probably good to go with testing it with real audio sources. You should count on cleaning all the switches and controls with a good contact cleaner. It's also effective to pull outward on volume and tone controls as you rotate them from end to end a few times to clear away oxidation.

  8. It may or may not be worthwhile to "recap" the amp (replace all the capacitors). While this may help performance, it's equally possible that a working all-original unit that has not been modified in any way will have higher resale value. In my experience, it's best to replace as few parts as possible. In high quality equipment like this, component failures are actually pretty rare and the resistors and capacitors used were surprisingly stable.

    I recently refurbished a 14-tube receiver from 1964 and all it required was a good cleaning. Absolutely no tubes or capacitors were bad.

    Good luck with the project!!
u/solitudechirs · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

u/DaegenLok · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

  1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)

    Wheels/Tires
  6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
  8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5

    Compounding/Polishing
  9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
  10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
  11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
  12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
  14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Interior/Glass Cleaners
  16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
  18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
  19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
  25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511

u/refboy4 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

  • Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.

    > A little portable air compressor

    can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...

    >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).

    I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.

    >Spare fluids.

    Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.


    > Tire pressure gauge.

    To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.

    > Jumper cables.

    Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.

    > A tow strap

    is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.


    > Tire chains.

    Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.

    > A shaker siphon

    Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
u/ryios · 3 pointsr/ATV

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

  • Voltage Regulator
  • Starter Solenoid
  • Starter

    If the current ones are working, call them spares.

    Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.

    Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:

  • Wire/Brushes
  • Jack/Lift
  • Compression Tester
  • [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  • [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  • Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.

    Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.

    And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
u/DiViNiTY1337 · 4 pointsr/simracing

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

  • Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.

  • TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,

  • Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.

    All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.

    The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.
u/kmets4 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

  • Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  • Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  • Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  • Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10

  • Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  • Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  • Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.

  • Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.

    Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.

  • Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  • Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20

    I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.

    I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
u/daniell61 · 17 pointsr/motorcycles

/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag

/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text

u/Jhadur · 11 pointsr/AutoDetailing

>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash

Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.

>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.

Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.

>Rinse car with water

Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc

>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?

With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.

>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/

The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.


The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)

The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon

I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.

If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845


Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.


Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.

u/GetABucket · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.

Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.

Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.

Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.

One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT

Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.

TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.

u/zenautodetailing · 12 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:

Wash

u/FightOrFlight · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

> Griots Garage Fiber Mit

Great kit.

> 2 or 3 buckets with Grit Guards

You can stick to 2 buckets to save money and just rinse it out after washing the wheels before starting your wash.

> Several Brushes for my wheels/Liners

I suggest getting the following brushes. Mothers wheel brush, Mother's wheel well brush, Tuf Shine tire brush. Then buy some wheel woolies if you want to clean your barrels without taking off the wheels.

>Soap

I suggest Chemical Guys, Meguiar's, or CarPro for your soap.

>I do a pre-soak with a hose powered foamer...do I need a special soap for this step?

A high foaming soap will be best for this. Most Chemical Guys soap works pretty well. I would suggest not getting a hose powered foam gun. Unless you're going off roading its not worth it. It's best to save up for a power washer and a foam lance.

> Plenty of microfiber towels

Make sure to buy some crappy towels for your dirty jobs like drying wheels, cleaning the undercarriage, and the carpets. I suggest zwipe microfiber towels for the cheap ones, and the rag companies eagle edgeless towels for your nice pair.

> Interior spray (I like the Meguiars Natural Finish, this okay?)

I have not had experience with that one yet. I have tried the Meguiars quik interior detailer before and it makes the plastics look stock. It doesn't do much cleaning, more of a finishing step. If you want to clean the interior I suggest getting Optimum Power Clean (diluted 1:10) or Chemical Guys NonSENSE (diluted 1:10).

> Waffle Towels (Oddles of them!)

Once your car is waxed you'll only need 2 large towels to dry your car. I really like the Chemical Guys waffle towels because they have good value for the money. Cobra towels are way better but way more expensive. I've heard the rag company has good ones too.

> See if I can get my hands on a leaf blower with a filter on it.

I bought a troy bilt leaf blower for $40 at home depot and it works pretty well.

I think you're forgetting 3 things.

  • Clay - the meguiar's clay kit you can buy over the counter is pretty good. Otherwise get a clay alternative like nanoskin autoscrub. If you get the alternative I suggest getting Optimum No Rinse and diluting it 1:8 for a lubricant.
  • Wax - I suggest getting a was with fillers in it so it hides some small scratches. Meguiars NXT liquid wax and Collinite #845 are both really good.
  • APC - an all purpose cleaner can be diluted to fulfill multiple purposes. Meguiars D101, Optimum Power Clean, and Chemical Guys NonSENSE are my favorite APC's at the moment. Each can be diluted to do different tasks. 1:10 for interior, 1:4 for NASTY interiors/carpets, 1:1 or undiluted for tires and trim.
u/jesterkid01 · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I have always used either Chelsea Leather Food or Lexol Leather Conditioner for my leather goods.

The Chelsea is really popular among soccer players for use on their cleats so it can be found in a reasonable number of sports stores that sell them for around 10 bucks. Make sure you get the clear stuff though.

The Lexol looks like a car care product but it was recommended to me for use on my riding boots and is extensively to keep horse tack from drying out and wearing down. Amazon is selling a liter of the stuff for 12 bucks. Because it is meant to soak in to the leather a bit, it may darken the JCP boots up some, so go with a few even, light coats first rather than just pouring the stuff on.

The Kiwi polish that you can find in drugstores everywhere is plenty good and is pretty cheap at around 3 bucks a tin. I am currently using some Brooks Brothers Shoe Cream which I got as a gift a bit ago and i love the stuff. It is a bit on the 'pricey' side at 9 bucks a jar so it is up to you.

As a last note, I would recommend getting some Saddle Soap for use after youve gone slogging through some less than clean streets and perhaps forgotten to clean your shoes for a bit. It is a great 'once and a while' product to get your shoes clean again and helps to make sure you arent polishing any dirt or grime into the shoe the next time you give them a shine.

u/Citecla · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

  1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
  2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
  3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
  4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
  5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE

  • By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  • Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  • Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?

    Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.

    PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?

    THANKS!!
u/rastacola · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I decided to just go with lexol leather conditioner and it's working perfectly. It came highly recommmend in /r/goodyearwelt. Don't use Obernauf's LP unless you want to ruin your boots. Don't use waxes. Oil works well but can be a little harder to work with because of how easily it saturates the leather. If you look around this subreddit you'll see a lot of boots that are drenched when they are oiled. You don't want that. You want a healthy leather.

  • Make sure your boots are dry inside and out. Don't start conditioning our boots if they are sweaty inside from you wearing them. Do it the next day after they were able to sit with cedar shoe trees in them. Also, ALWAYS USE CEDAR SHOE TREES IN YOUR BOOTS.

  • Remove the laces.

  • Brush out all of the dirt and dust with a horse hair brush. Any brand will do.

  • Take a slightly-damp paper tower and do a once over to grab any dirt or dust hanging out. Use a damp Q-Tip and go over the welt. Do not saturate the leather with water, you are just trying to pick up the specks of dirt.

  • Take a tiny bit of lexol and put it only a dry washcloth. Work it into the piece of fabric you are using. You don't want to use it like a paint brush, you want the cloth to just allow a super thin layer of conditioner to be left behind as you wipe your boots. Think like a snail-trail or something ..idk. You're not slathering the conditioner on, you're just putting a super thin coat. Like how you would season a cast-iron skillet (the right way).

  • Slowly apply a thin layer over the boots, making sure to get every nook and cranny. Don't over-condition the boots. They won't be damaged, but it can weaken the leather too much and is unfavorable. Get everywhere including the tongue. Don't bother conditioning the inside, but I like to do the collar.

  • I like to put them on and walk a short lap around the room to help the conditioner settle a bit. I'm not running around, just walking naturally. You'll notice that the creases created from you walking might look unconditioned now. Take the boots off. not hit that spot with a little conditioner in the same manner you've been doing.

  • Take your brush and just gently go over the boot.

  • Put your cedar shoe trees into them and let them sit for at least 12 hours. Don't wear them in the rain for at least 24.

  • If this is your first conditioning, I would do it a month or so after you started wearing your boots. There is a lot of conversation over the frequency of conditioning, but the best thing is to do is use your judgement. If the leather looks like it is getting too dry, re-condition with a tiny bit of lexol. If they get dirty, brush off the dirt thoroughly and maybe go over with a slightly-damp paper towel and consider that dirt dries leather out. You won't need to condition weekly. Some people do it monthly. Some only twice a year. And some neglectful boot-owners never condition them. I think every other month might be a good time frame, but like I said, use your judgement.
u/CleanFlow · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

>4: Nice coat of wax

>How does that sound?

Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.

Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.

As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.

If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.

I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.

u/youAreAllRetards · 6 pointsr/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.



u/RazgrizReborn · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Minatures can be a whole different beast, but its rewarding to pull it off on an FDM. I would lower your layer height to one or two nozzle volumes (if you have a .04 do .04 or 0.08) and slow everything real far down. I have a Wanhao v2.1, but it should be about the same premise. they take a while but turn out great. support helps too.

Feeler gauge -- just a more accurate way to check the bed height, and you will have a physical number you can report if you are having issues. Just make sure to adjust the bed until you feel slight resistance, kinda like what you do with paper. I think your printer can accept a auto bed leveler (control board should allow it) you may want to look into it. Looks like you have a metal bed, so inductive might work best for you. It will really help out.

u/SpideyTingle · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

u/creep_nu · 4 pointsr/subaru

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

u/jpmondx · 2 pointsr/guitars

link 1 - the notches are overkill, it's the straight edge you want because you're aligning the frets not the fretboard. Amazon has an 18" steel ruler that should work fine https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Stainless-Steel-Office-Inches/dp/B000093IJ1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315326&sr=8-1&keywords=18%27+ruler

link 2 That's overkill as well, you'll end up using just one or two of the files. I don't like the fret guards because it's more efficient to tape all the frets at one time than it is to tape up the guard 22 times. If you want to round the fret ends this file is similar to one I've used and will work fine. Just make sure the edge of the file doesn't saw the fretboard https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Triangular-Ergonomic-American-Pattern/dp/B001R1UZII/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315923&sr=8-12&keywords=triangular+file

link 3 - That's fine, there's another one $1 cheaper. They're basically all stamped out in China, and do the same as the $25 Stew Mac one. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483316161&sr=1-3&keywords=String+Action+Gauge

Your choices are fine, but I'm a cheap dude. And while you're in the ordering mood, you might get a set of automotive feeler gauges. This is what you can use with the ruler to set the amount of relief the neck should have. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=pd_sim_267_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA62DPTD81NDZKM36V6C

More on neck relief from Fender's web site: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/how-to-measure-neck-relief/

If you wanna learn how to work on your own guitars, Frets.com is a great resource, here's their link on neck relief and buzz diagnosis http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/Relief/relief.html

Good luck!

u/Santo_R · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.

There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.

This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.

There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.


For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)

u/Pfffffbro · 5 pointsr/Vive

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

u/Fents_Post · 3 pointsr/nova

Waxing is simple. There are a ton of products these days that won't require much work to keep your car protected. The easiest are the spray waxes. Use after you wash once a month(or more) and you'll be nice an protected. If you need some paint correction (i.e. polishing) and you aren't comfortable with it, you will have to spend a couple hundred if you want someone to do a good job and not actually damage the paint. Be careful of the "FUll Detail" for under $100 guys. If correction is what you need, I can suggest Odds and Ends Detailing in Sterling. If that is too far out from where you are, you might want to give them a call and ask if they can recommend someone closer. The owner is a very nice guy.

​

Some general tips on keeping your car looking good.

  1. Start with clean paint. Wash. At minimum claybar (easy to do, research online) then apply a wax or sealant. Sealants also come in spray form and will provide additional protection. It can be topped with wax after a few days if you want even more protection and beading. Note: Claybar is only needed once a year if you keep your car clean and protected.
  2. When washing, use a two bucket method. Look it up.
  3. Get a good washing mitt. They aren't expensive. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F45IEAEIK2RF&keywords=chenille+wash+mitt&qid=1559133753&s=gateway&sprefix=chenille+wash%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-5
  4. Get some good drying towels. I suggest waffle weave drying towels. Get 2-3 that are 24x36 or similar.
  5. Get some additional microfiber towels for spot cleaning.
  6. Be careful washing in the full sun. Rinse will dry fast and leave watermarks.
  7. Don't use automatic car washes. They leave micro swirls. In the winter just use one of those touch less washes when salt gets on your car.
  8. Do not wash your drying towel / microfiber towels with the rest of your laundry. Do them separate. Use a mild detergent with no fabric softener like Woolite. Dry on low or air dry.
u/hawkens85 · 2 pointsr/videos

First off, the subreddit that inspired me to start cleaning cars: /r/AutoDetailing . They've got some great material there, along with resources, instructions, and more.

First, clean the windshield. If it's not been done in a while, you'll have to do it very well. Prepping the windshield is the most critical part to a good coat of RainX. My preferred method is to begin after washing the car. Get some good glass cleaner, like Stoners, spray it over the windshield, then use a razor blade, holding it at a 45 degree angle to the glass, to scrape down the windshield in and up and down and side to side pattern. This won't scratch the glass, but help remove embedded particles. After you've finished scraping the glass, wipe down the excess window cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Then use a clay bar to go over the glass one more time. This picks up any additional leftover contaminants left in the glass. Because it's clay, it will want to stick to the glass, so you can use the Stoners as lubrication. Once done, wipe the excess off with a window with some type of glass rag. Now you can apply RainX. Using a microfiber towel folded a few times, put a small amount of RainX in a corner and begin working into the glass (I've seen AmmoNYC use foam from packaging before). Use circular motions and check it from a few angles to make sure you've covered everything. The product should form a "haze" a few seconds after application. A little bit goes a long way with RainX. Some guys recommend turning on your windshield defrosters and running them as hot as possible for a few minutes before applying the RainX, I've not noticed a huge difference. After 5-10 minutes, use a glass towel to begin buffing it off. You can sprinkle a little bit of water on the window during this process to help take it off, but I just stick to the towel. You can apply a 2nd coat immediately after for improved results, but anything beyond that doesn't help. Double check your working by looking at the glass from all angles (inside/outside) to make sure you didn't miss a spot. Enjoy driving in the rain with no need for windshield wipers above 35mph!

Hope this helps. Again, prepping the glass is the most critical part. You're creating a clean surface to put on the hydrophobic materials of RainX. If there's dirt still in the glass, that's something the water can hold on to and not bead off properly.

u/cheez6001 · 5 pointsr/GolfGTI

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

  • 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)

  • 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard

  • Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)

  • I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.

    • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time

    • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse

    • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse

      • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse

  • Dry car and head home!

    My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.

    I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.

    The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.
u/Trokeasaur · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.

Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.


Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.

u/YankeeATZ · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

  1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
  2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
  3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?

    We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.

    Thanks for reading this long-winded post!
u/hplaptop1234 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.

Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.

Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).

u/Ferrocile · 1 pointr/Guitar

Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)

Good luck!

u/Kailand09 · 1 pointr/cars

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

  1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)

    https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit

  5. Applicator pads

    https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator

  6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)

    https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel


  7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt

  8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)

    https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011




    Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard

    It fits in a home depot bucket.

    If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator

    WARNING **

    When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.

    Steps for this process:

  9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.

    1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!

  10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.

  11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.

  12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.

  13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.

  14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.

  15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?

  16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.

  17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.

  18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.
u/ewinterstine · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

Completed my first week with 28 rides and I'm surprised how nice everyone has been so far! I creeped on this sub for a few weeks now for tips/tricks and it has really helped. PAX also really like the interior lights of my car. Some materials I want to share:


Waterless Car Wash - I work in the city and didn't know there was such a thing. I can wash my car in my parking spot or on the street with a little bucket of water.


LED Interior Lights - This is a little flashy, but it was only $10 and I hard wired it into my interior dash so there are 0 wires and I'm not using up my outlet for power. Plus PAX can see if they dropped anything and we're not driving completely in the dark. I can control the brightness and usually have it very dim for some atmospheric lighting


Vaccum - This thing works great and has a very long cord to reach through my entire Jeep. It's not for heavy duty jobs, but vacuuming once a week should do the trick


Phone Holder - The Jeep has circular air ducts so this is a great alternative - if you do not use your CD player. This does cover your CD port and has worked great so far. Since it's in my center dash, PAX can see where I'm going.


Battery Powered Uber Sign - Again, flashy but it draws attention and since it's battery powered I do not have to worry about cords running through my car or dash. I found mine on Ebay.


Water - I have a small compartment to keep ice-packs and small water bottles. With every PAX I pickup I offer a bottle of water. 9/10 say no thanks but everyone is very thankful for the offer.

u/willielazorjones · 2 pointsr/Jaguar

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

u/doitskippy · 1 pointr/motocamping

Yeah that's the idea, just a little hard flat thing that you can turn into a cooking/eating surface using what you'll have. The campsites may or may not have amenities provided. I almost always camp at places that have potable water, a picnic table with benches, a critter-proof food locker, and a fire ring in each site. They take a little bit of the isolation and manliness out of the experience, but I'm usually camping with a couple girls in the group and girls seem to appreciate having toilets and showers even when they're off in the woods somewhere. For a first trip you'll find things like not having to pack clean water really handy, so if that's an option I'd go for it.

Another thing you might find really handy is [this little charger] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that plugs right in to a battery tender plug. If you don't already have a battery tender plug for keeping your battery charged when you aren't riding for a bit, I recommend picking up one of those too. This thing will let you charge your phone or camera. A phone doesn't suck up a ton of juice, but since you may not have a jump handy I'd just idle the bike while charging to make sure you don't end up with a flat battery.

Take loads of pictures, man! Let us know how you liked the experience. Best of luck.

u/timbotx · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)



WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)


Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 3 pointsr/motorcycle

Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight and I would get a battery tender as well, attach the pigtail that comes with it so you can easily plug it in when at home.. Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame and the engine block, it needs to be clean and tight as well. Make sure you know absolutely the correct way to check if your oil level is correct. Adjust your clutch cable, lube all pivot points, foot pegs too. Be sure your headlight is adjusted correctly for your weight. Buy a Haynes manual and put it in the bathroom where you’ll end up reading it through a couple times. Use some injector cleaner like Seafoam in the next few tanks. Get an inexpensive multimeter and some JIS screwdrivers to keep from striping heads, and some T-Handled Allen wrenches.

www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

Here’s a good write up to save. https://m.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A good used bike evaluation checklist, pretty detailed. http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html

JIS Screwdrivers. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A handy USB adapter for your Tender Pigtail. www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Seafoam, Walmart has it too. www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

u/aveeight · 1 pointr/Triumph

Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.

This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.

https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/

I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.

Basically get these:

Arkon Case

Tender Adapter

Battery Tender Harness

And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.

Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?

u/WATCH_DOGS_SUCKS · 1 pointr/simracing

G920 bundle, includes the wheel, standard 3 pedal set, and their 6+R H-gate shifter, all for about $308. This fits your criteria near-perfectly.

Thrustmaster TMX Pro package, includes the wheel and T3PA pedals, all for about $270 (currently). Unfortunately, you'd have to buy their shifter separately, which can push the price up to about $400 altogether.

Similarities

Both wheels are not interchangeable, so you can't change the rim itself. Both are fully compatible with Xbox One and PC.

Differences

Because of the TMX's belt/gear hybrid system, its FFB is generally considered considerably smoother than the G29/G920's helical gear system, and the T3PA pedals are better than the Logitech pedals in both size and resolution (accuracy). Not to mention that Thrustmaster's shifter can not only be used as a handbrake in sequential mode, but is a 7+R shifter, which is pretty handy when you're playing games with high-end cars. The best part: if you get this bundle and end up wanting to upgrade to the TX (the TMX's big brother) later on, you could use the shifter and pedals you already have with the TX base.

On the other hand the G920's base an be hard mounted (the TMX can only be clamp mounted), and has a leather-on-metal wheel, compared to the TMX's rubber-on-plastic wheel, if that matters to you.

u/jamalstevens · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hey all,

So I just bought a new to me 2016 f150 with blue jeans color paint. Since this car was more expensive than anything I've ever bought besides my house I want to take care of it as best as I can. For context I live in MI and during the winter will have a garage (that isn't heated) and will have space to clean the car, but no access to a hose or whatever for hosing down the car in the winter.

As far as I can see there is one paint chip on the hood and a few very small scratches by the door handle (they aren't very deep at all). There is some swirls on the window pillars, but there doesn't appear to be any swirling in the paint itself.

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep it clean and looking good outside of taking it to a mechanical car wash and then touching it up with some chemical guys vintage quick detailer to prevent water spots.

I don't know if I should do the whole wash, clay bar, and then wax, or if I can just wash and then use a waterless wash/wax combo.

I don't want to do any polishing/cutting work if I don't have to to get the car up to snuff as I don't really trust myself with that.

Basically my idea was to use a regular car wash on the car, and then use something like this: Aero Cosmetics Waterless Car Wash/Wax. to protect it.

Is that not right? Should I wash, claybar and then apply a dedicated wax? I've never waxed a car and am a bit worried about doing it wrong.

Any advice on keeping this as simple and budget friendly as possible? I have a lot of microfiber cloths (Kirkland) as well as window waffle cloths. Just wondering about what else to do and what else to buy.

Thanks for the help and sorry for asking something so simple, this stuff is just so confusing to me!

u/chadcf · 10 pointsr/pics

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

  1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
  2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
  3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
  4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
  5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.

    You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).

    The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.

  1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
  2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.
u/TerranRepublic · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

Location: NC, USA

Device: Nexus 6P 64GB (White)

Approved: 9/27

Ordered: 9/27

Ships: 9/28

Shipped: 10/3

ETA: 9/29-10/2

New ETA: 10/5

Replacement: Pixel XL (128 GB, Very Silver)

Process: Google Support

Warranty: Out of warranty, within Nexus Protect (have replaced phone once over a year ago under NP)

Status: Shipped! (10/3)

Battery drain for me. I was going to replace it under under NP (would've been second replacement), but found this thread first. They first said "well your phone is out of warranty but fortunately is still covered by Nexus Protect" but I told them the phone had to only barely be out of warranty and I wasn't go to pay the $70 for a known problem other people were getting free replacements for (I didn't mention the Pixel). They were very nice and gave me the "one-time exception" for a 128GB Silver Pixel XL which the representative said was the only color left and 'looked very nice'. Obviously pleased with how it turned out - credit to Google for really going above and beyond to make this right in the end, even though there's a lot of headache in-between for many.

Only worry is that they'll be upset with the scratches my screen has (small, made by sand) or say something like "there's nothing wrong with your phone" if maybe the 4th factory reset before I send it in fixes it. That remains to be seen.

Note: To anyone with a bend in the casing around buttons, just buy something like this and press it back in. If you are really worried it'll scuff (didn't for me) just use a paper towel barrier. These are also super handy to just have anyways. I had a bend near the lock button and another one near the volume button. Obviously I wouldn't bother if it is going back to Google though.

u/Mancaveaccount · 5 pointsr/cars

lol why would you use a toothbrush unless you're a masochist!?

You can buy brushes that are like $6-$11 each, with varying bristle stiffness, and they last years.

I bought 3 Mothers brushes like 3 years ago and I'm still using them.

wheel contour brush. Hard bristles, great for tires and rim face.

long handle brush. Medium bristles, great for wheel wells and your wheel's barrel.

Wheel brush. a bonus brush if your feeling a bit extra. Has really soft bristles. Really gets a great lather going on your wheels.

u/MissingUmlaut · 7 pointsr/DIY

There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.

Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.

I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.

  1. Get a kit like this. They're sold all over- Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Make sure you get the kit that includes a tube of rubber cement. The kits all have a reaming tool, a plug tool, and a number of plugs. The plugs are usually sealed in plastic and look like strips of rubber.
  2. Jack the car up and remove the leaking tire. In a pinch you can install a plug while the tire is still on the car, but the tire still needs to be up in the air. Note that you should NEVER crawl under a car that is only supported with a jack, so only do this if you can reach the puncture without getting underneath the car.
  3. Using pliers or whatever, remove the screw that is stuck in the tire.
  4. Use the reaming tool from the kit to rough up the hole left by the screw. Just do a couple of push/pull strokes with the tool to round out the puncture. This ensures the plug will seal correctly.
  5. Take one of the plug strips and thread it into the plug tool, like you're threading a needle. Make sure there is equal amount of plug on either side.
  6. Coat the plug with some rubber cement.
  7. This is the only tricky part. You want to push the end of the plug tool into the puncture until only about 1/4" of plug material is sticking out, then quickly remove the plug tool. The plug will remain in the hole, and your puncture is fixed. Just go slow, and don't push the plug all the way in or you'll lose it inside the tire.

    It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.

    Hope this helps.
u/pbs094 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Watch this for how to clean your seats.

For the rest of the interior like the dash, steering wheel and center console you want an All Purpose Cleaner and then a dressing/protectant to put on after. I like Optimum Power Clean and here's a review I recently did on it.

I use this as a dressing to protect afterwards. Note: most dressings including this one can leave behind a slippery/greasy residue so don't put it on your steering wheel.

The windows can be cleaned with glass cleaner then coated with rain-x or similar to make water bead off of it.

Here's a post I made on cleaning the engine on my Grandma's car. and here's mine after I did it. All you need to do is cover up any sensitive stuff that you don't want to get wet like the alternator or any exposed electrical connectors...I only did the alternator for mine. Then you rinse the entire engine bay lightly with a hose to knock off any loose dirt/grease/grime. Then you soak the whole thing with degreaser...I use this from Home Depot. Make sure you get it into all the small crevices where gunk builds up. Then agitate everything with a brush. I use this one and this one. Once you've scrubbed every inch of the engine bay and worked the degreaser into a foam it's time to rinse everything off with the hose again. The whole process takes only about 10 minutes. One important thing is to not let the degreaser dry on anything. shouldn't be a problem, but don't spray it on your engine then forget about it for a few hours. After a thorough rinse you can remove the bag from over the alternator and dry the engine. If you have a compressor then use it to blow dry all the water out of all the small places it collects in. If not then soak up as much as possible with an old towel then run your engine for a few minutes or drive around for a bit to dry out the rest of it. Then you can dress your engine with something like this or this.

Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions!

All these products can be replaced with other similar products, these are just the ones that I personally use and like.

u/DarkLordKnoll · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

  1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?

    The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.

    ​

  1. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?

    Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.

    ​

  2. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?

    I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.

    ​

    Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
    Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..

    ​

    Thank you for any and all feedback!
u/NothinToSeeHere · 2 pointsr/subaru

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

u/commiecat · 1 pointr/subaru

Awesome, good luck with it and feel free to PM me if you have any questions. If you buy from Crutchfield then I believe they'll send you a PDF with instructions on removing door panels, head unit, etc. I have one for the OB which should be the same as your Legacy and would be happy to email it or Dropbox it to you if you're not going with Crutchfield.

Definitely have some trim removal tools before you get started. You can get them for a few dollars on Amazon or Harbor Freight. Makes removing panels easier without scratching or creasing them like you might with a screwdriver.

u/LovingShmups · 4 pointsr/consolerepair
Best move here is to use special electrical contacts oil.
I'm living in Europe, so I'm using a European brand (actually French...)
http://www.kfsolution.fr/kf/KFproductdetail.csp?division=&product=F%202%20SPECIAL%20CONTACTS&ilang=fr&plang=fr

You have different brands in USA, like this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AF0OFVU/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_size_name=0

Most of the time, it will cost you 15 USD / EUR (without transport).
You could find those special electrical contacts oils in a good electronic component shop, if you live a big city.
I have one bottle for now 8 years so you can use a bottle for many years !!
Believe me : it changed a lot of things for me :
N64 cartridge working again, unrecognised joypad on PSX... recognized, boring USB key.. working again, etc.
On your picture, your cartridge isn't clean !
Take a q tip, put some special oil on it and.... clean. do this with 2 Q tips for a good measure.

Spray some oil on your 62Pins Slot, inside the SNES , and you are good to go.
Except for the battery, cartridges can last practically forever....
u/Kooriki · 9 pointsr/vancouver

I bought a car from the auto auction in the late 90's (CAAG in Surrey). Back then it was a risk v reward thing as you're never sure exactly what you're getting. You can browse the cars beforehand, start them up but they are packed in so tight you can't really drive them.

Plenty of deals to be had but its largely influenced by how popular it is that day. Best times is low season (Oct-Feb), and if it's raining. Mid week was better deals than weekends.

To judge prices, ignore blue book; Check Craigslist. Craiglist is the market.

Buy an ODB2 sensor to check diagnostics. (Depending on how old the car is, it may not work). Before every auction the auctioneer will call out any declarations and it will be on a big board (out of province, salvage, not legal etc)

The atmosphere is hectic and crazy and confusing and exciting, but once you've got a couple of times and see how it goes its not bad at all. If you want to bid on a car, have a price in mind and put your hand up if the price is right. An auction worker will come over to you and call the bids out for you so you're not confused by all the hand signals and yelling. If there is a reserve price on the car and you don't meet it, you can negotiate on the spot with the seller (standing near the auctioneer) if they are willing to take less than the reserve.

Try not to feel intimidated or bullied. Get a price in your mind and work with that.

Last note: You're going to have to settle price and insurance quickly, but they do have a broker on site to do transfers/reg/taxes

Hopefully this helps. My experience is close to 20 years old, but I spent a TON of time at the auction place and got a real good feel for how it worked at that time.

u/chicagoose3 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Sorry about the delay. I don't bring much non-obvious stuff, but here are some thoughts that I think are helpful.

  1. Have zip-ties and have them handy. You can fix so much stuff in a pinch with a zip tie, from busted fairings to securing a paper towel/rag around a fork if your seal leaks to any number of other things. Of course all of this is useless if the zip ties are buried deep in your bags. I keep a few in the Camelbak I ride with for easy access.

  2. If you're mechanically inclined at all, bring a handful of your most used tools. Most bikes have 3 or 4 typical sizes for allen keys, sockets, and screw drivers. You don't need much (you aren't going to rebuild anything on the side of the road) but quickly tightening a loose fastener on the go beats waiting until you get to town or having to ask a shop to tighten a bolt for you. Like the zip-ties, these should be your quickest/easiest access things.

  3. Obviously you'll be carrying a phone, but if you're also running a helmet comm system I cannot recommend a USB battery tender enough (even just for a phone it's great). You can charge right off your bike battery if you need some juice in a pinch. It's like $10 and installs in under 10 minutes.

  4. Pack light on clothes and supplies, especially if you aren't camping. You don't need much and you aren't impressing anyone under your helmet and jacket anyway. A lot of AirBNBs and some campgrounds have laundry so you can totally do it on the road if you're gone long enough. The less you have to pack up and strap down each morning, the better.

  5. Stay hydrated. I usually drink a bottle of water or, better yet, fill my Camelbak to drink as I head down the road at each gas stop. You don't usually realize you're dehydrated until you're already there and it's easy to make mistakes at that point.

  6. The most important tip is to be open to changing plans on the fly. Weather, bike issues and recommendations from strangers on the road can really alter your plans but that's what makes it the most fun. I try to set a goal each night for where I want to end up the next day, but having a hand-and-fast rule like "I HAVE to be at this point 2.5 days from now" can really frustrate you if conditions aren't perfect. These trips are nothing if not incredible lessons in adaptability and improvisation.

    If you've got more questions about a specific pack list or anything else, feel free to ask.
u/Irenarch · 4 pointsr/goodyearwelt

>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.

Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.

>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?

Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.

>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?

Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.

>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.

Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.

It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).

Here's what I do:

  1. Put cedar shoe trees into the boots when they are not in use.

  2. Every couple days, wipe down the boots with a damp cloth or brush to get rid of accumulated crap.

  3. Every ~3 months, take out the laces, clean the boots thoroughly with a damp cloth, then clean the welt with a wet Q-tip. Wait for an hour (until they dry), then condition with Lexol and an old t-shirt. Wait for four hours, then re-lace them. Ready to wear. Bam.
u/5hiftyy · 10 pointsr/mazdaspeed3

The CX-7 turbo has a smaller compressor wheel as well as a smaller compressor wheel housing. This gives you a better low-end torque curve as well as faster spool-up and throttle response. This sort of turbo brings the torque needed for a small SUV with a turbo. The Speed3/6 K04 has a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, which leads to higher top-end boost translating to more top-end power while sacrificing low end torque and response.

Typically, all the aftermarket turbos are listed as fitting the Speed3/6, CX-7 becuase they are all bolt-in replacements. The problem is if you get a CX-7 turbo, it'll still fit, but your power band WILL change, just like you're describing.

For a short-term problem solver, I might suggest getting a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and looking at your boost levels. No, it's not the best solution for logging, but it'll do what you need it to. I know my speed3 hits max boost between 3500-3750 RPM; being ~15psi in gears 3 & 4. Why don't you try a 3rd gear pull and see where the motor hits max boost, what that max boost number is, and what RPM it's hit at? This is honestly the only thing I can think of with respect to diagnosing on the cheap, without an AP or pulling the turbo. You may also want to ask the mechanic again for the OEM serial number of the replacement they put in, and compare it to the CX7 vs. Speed3/6 turbos.

The stock MS3/MS6 K04 is typically serialized as K0422-881/882.
The stock CX-7 K04 is serialized as K0422-582.

u/jhonizzle · 5 pointsr/Audi

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

u/mechanicalgod · 2 pointsr/simracing

I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

u/Schneiderman · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.

Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.

With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.

And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.

You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.

I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).

As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.

There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of

washing->decontaminating->compounding->polishing

it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.

Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/AltF4Uninstall · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.


A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).

u/JoeyOhhh · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

u/radroachbrz · -2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Perhaps the wax you're using isn't strong enough to protect against the hard water etching. If you're using a carnauba wax, perhaps try switching to a poly wax, like Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. It has a tackier feel to it when it's cured (not slick) so I imagine it forms a thicker, stronger layer of protection over the car.

To fix lots of etching, I recommend getting a DA polisher, porter cable DA is good, here's a whole kit for under $200,: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html?productid=poca74pofcop&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CJ_twp2IncACFSsV7AodMSwAAA

though I use Meguiar's microfiber DA correction system on mine, a little more expensive but better.

You can try a number of products to "clean" etching by hand. I'd prefer a cleaner polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, a couple meguiar's foam pads, and a quality microfiber. And follow up with an oil-heavy pure polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish

Another tip is to avoid letting water dry over your car. If you have a brief shower and your car gets wet with lots of water beads, drive the car around the block, wipe it down with a huge soft microfiber, or use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off. Or get a Metropolitan Master Blaster air dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGSLSTaOB4

u/jxhenson91 · 5 pointsr/SVRiders

certainly.

  1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG

  2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.

  3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish

  4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax

  5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny

  6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray

    also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
u/DatSass · 1 pointr/cars

If you have a free weekend and really feel like getting your car clean, get a claybar kit like this, and after that's done, give it a nice wax. You will be pretty amazed at how smooth and slick the paint is after this.

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/oc412 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

The items I used in this was a [Nanoskin Foamer Trigger Sprayer] (http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-92-709-Foamer-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B00X124AIM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) with [Meguiars D101] (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463972157&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiars+d101) diluted 4:1 in the bottle. The 3D spray bottle with chemical resistant sprayer was bought locally in one of their stores in Compton, CA. It was about $6. The bottle with the nanoskin sprayer came from WalMart. I got the bottle and a sprayer with it for $1!! The photo at the end of the review with the blue and white sprayer is what comes with it. The nanoskin foamer sprayer fit perfectly on the bottle. Its 32 oz and has measurements for diluting on the side. They are also very thick and made by Bottle Crew and can be found [here] (http://www.bottlecrew.com/browse/retail-products/32-oz-all-purpose-sprayer-3/) on their site. They also sell [these] (http://www.bottlecrew.com/browse/retail-products/32-oz-2nd-nature-proffessional-sprayer/) at my local walmart from the same company. I have a couple that I use for dressing 1:1 and they work great. They mist real fine if you want them to and also spray upside down. In the 3D spray bottle I used LA Awesome degreaser 5:1 on the tires. I dressed them with [CG VRP] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_107_16-V-R-P-Dressing/dp/B00FJIT9BO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463972523&sr=8-1&keywords=chemical+guys+vrp).

The details are in the imgur link.

u/chriskmee · 2 pointsr/subaru

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

u/thenseruame · 2 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Be careful when using oil on shoes and boots. Most of them will darken the leather. If you plan on repeatedly using the boots in heavy snow or rain oil will help weather proof them. Otherwise there isn't any real reason to. Every couple months give the boots a good rub down with a leather conditioner. It'll help keep the leather from drying out and restore some luster.

I like Lexol; it's cheap, it works and it doesn't darken the leather. A jug this size will last you years. Of course there are plenty of options out there, feel free to do the research. There's a lot to learn. Just keep in mind that products containing oil (especially mink) or wax will darken the leather.

Equally important is to get a shoe brush if you haven't already. With five minutes, a brush and a little elbow grease you can get your boots looking great without having to use any product. You don't want to over condition leather as it can weaken it over time.

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.

If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.

The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.

u/l0new0lf41 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel

u/TimesFather · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I'm assuming you're trying to clean the PCB. That shiny coating is an electrical varnish; a sealant to protect the board, mainly the circuit traces. Any type of Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, etc.) will strip that varnish. What you'll want to use is Contact Cleaner (here). It's as simple as spraying down the PCB lightly with the cleaner, and then taking a non-abrasive brush to work it around and remove the dirt/oil/dust. Once you're satisfied, wipe down the PCB with a clean microfiber cloth. Good luck!

u/mityman50 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

This guy is perfect for your setup. Gets you the 100w for your speakers and a respectable 350w for your sub.

Make sure you set your gains correctly. I'd leave some headroom on the speakers (target 90w) to avoid clipping.

This amp has fuses on it but you still need to fuse the power wire. Don't skimp on wiring!

This is a simple, clean, respectable little setup. I like it.

Oh yeah one last thing! I'd highly, highly suggest putting these on the shopping list if you don't have anything.

u/b0ltzmann138e-23 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

u/Baconzjews11 · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you're trying to keep costs at a minimum then I recommend ditching that kit. Have you googled the Gary dean method of washing? If not then check it out. Basically he uses one bucket and a couple of microfibers as washing media. The pros to this is that 1. You don't have to lug around two buckets. 2. No need for grit guards. 3. After im done washing my car. Since the water is clean I can actually save it for later use. Gary deans method has one downside which is that you have to invest in more microfibers. Honestly, you can buy the ONR, and bucket. Then buy about 6-20 good quality microfiber towels. The clay you have is good and you're on the right track. You can also never go wrong with collinite 845. For the towels I recommend these

u/Cinder0us · 2 pointsr/Miata

Clay bar is so much work but definitely worth the trouble, I try to do it once a year. 2-3 times a year I'll give it a really good wash, use klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant. Dirt/spots buff off with a microfiber, and I can wash the car very quickly once this is done. It does such a great job of creating that protective layer. It's on the expensive side but you use so little of each product that they will last you quite awhile.

Edit: doh, forgot my claybar brand...mother's

u/chicos240 · 3 pointsr/Harley

First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.

  • Layers, go get some type of wool underlayer, it stays warm when wet and also cools you off when sweaty. Seriously, get wool.


  • Water, you need more water. Here is why. That time of year you have a chance of low humidity which means you need more water. I know you are not going to die if you don't drink enough water for one day, but you can get mood swings, joint aches, lack of mental acuity, all which can be dangerous on a bike.
    Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.

  • For the bike you need a few things. Tire repair, fuel and storage. For tire repair , you need a way to plug it,and a way to inflate it. I carry this and a couple of c02 cartridges to get me out of a tight spot. This guy does a great video.

    Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders


    So I would do two things from here until November.
    Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
    You can get cheap bags at revzilla

    Best of luck and post some pictures!
u/huzzy · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

u/TheCamboRambo · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Interesting, I'll have to give the Mother's QD and clay bar a shot then. This seems like it?.

Thanks! I love it so far, definitely want to keep it looking as good as I can.

u/thatoneguystephen · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel

When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.

I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.

u/ultragib · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Are you talking about getting a DA polisher or just washing, cleaning, and sealing? If you're not getting a DA machine and polishing, you can get everything you need to detail your car for about $100 imo.

Get two $5 five gallons n buckets at Home Depot.

Here's a good car wash kit for $60:

TriNova Car Care Kit

If you want to decontaminate the paint ($15):

Mother's Clay Bar Kit

Here's a super-easy to apply sealant that should last 4-6 months, depending on weather and driving habits ($18 with coupon):

Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish

And get a bunch of good quality MF towels ($18 for 12):

12 Pack Microfiber Towels

That's plenty to get started and should be enough product to get you through 10 washes/details.

If you get addicted, be sure to check out The Rag Company for some great drying towels, and look into Optimum No Rinse wash to make maintenance washes a lot easier.

u/kswiss996 · 2 pointsr/bikesgonewild
u/kocsenc · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.

​

  1. Because of the efficiency of pressure washing, I've decided to make my routine cleaning a rinse, foam cannon, wash, rinse, dry. Is that good enough for routine wash?
  2. I have a Wolfgang paint sealant in my garage which I'll apply as a LSP when I'm confident enough, i haven't seen it recommended on the wiki, am I making a mistake with it?
  3. Is it ok to use microfiber towels instead of a mitt for washing?
  4. I've been watching this guys video where he claims using a high pH soap to strip everything and always re-sealing/re-waxing Meguiars spray wax is the way to go. He claims that over time debris gets melded _with_ the wax and so it's better to strip it all out. What are your thoughts?
u/orlheadlights · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

All right popeye, get yourself a hand applicator, something like Orange Light Cutting CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator. Then pick up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. You should only need like 16 oz bottles which is probably still more than you need.

The auto store will have the compound and polish if you pick it up from there. They might carry a hand applicator.

You should also pick up a clay bar kit, something like Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System to get rid of the contaminants before you start rubbing more swirls into your paint while your polishing.

u/Splazoid · 1 pointr/HondaCB

Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!

u/R3411yFFS · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469057081&sr=8-1&keywords=d101

Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.

http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/

The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.

If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner

u/redditmakesyoudumb · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

u/trevorbr2 · 1 pointr/350z

Here you go. It works pretty awesome and it makes your car look all shiny. 😀😊

u/amberrgerr · 1 pointr/subaru

There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)

u/hippocratic_oaf · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

u/AnxietyCanFuckOff · 3 pointsr/Vive

I posted this above, It can be cheap but if you want something that feels right.. it's not so cheap.

>[Thrustmaster](https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1537753451&sr=1-4&keywords=thrustmaster+steering+wheel+pc&dpID=51bn3uOuWAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
) on amazon is $160. It comes with pedals. But honestly after a month I upgraded to much better pedals and then bought a shifter ended up costing me over $400 by the end of it all lol. You can get away with just the wheel and default pedals though.

u/MorningFrog · 99 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I too had this issue, and completely fixed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Compressed air didn't work, I had to use this stuff. You lift up the rubber base of the sticks and spray this stuff in there on all the sides, wiggle around your sticks a bit to get it all around in there, let it dry for a an hour and then they'll be back to normal. I have to repeat this process every few months depending on how often depending on how much I'm using my switch, but it's super easy and takes very little time. I still have the same can of cleaner, and it seems like it has plenty left in it.

u/dsmaxwell · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Everyone should have one these days. They're super cheap. This is the first one that came up on Amazon. Seems to be reviewed well. It's bluetooth and connects to your phone. There are a number of free apps that will serve your purposes. I use OBD Car Doctor.

Good luck!

u/alwaysready · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

u/crg300 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

I configured 2 months ago and edit button is still
there. Probably because I ordered AWD (non performance) with white seats. It also depends on your reservation number, if you were a previous owner and your location. Some people order long range models are getting them way faster than expected due to so many folks opting for AWD variants since they became available in late July (pent up demand).

As for car washes, everything I’ve read in the forum says only if it’s a laser no touch car wash. Most people recommend hand washing with two bucket method or something like this product below. The issue with traditional car wash machines is it leaves micro abrasions in the paint. Some people care, others don’t. Also, many folks are also paying a premium for paint protection film and/or ceramic coating. I’m planning to use the wash mentioned below and likely get paint protection film only on the front half of the car body.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJvLBbV9TYKZ0

u/FagReducingTaskForce · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I had this issue and aside from a tool to get in the corners, you really are simply lacking in good microfibers. Once I bought some good ones for the first time in my life, I realized how crucial towels are in the whole equation of detailing. These are the ones I bought which are just great, in fact the best mf towels I own currently: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

u/Redditor_of_Rivia · 2 pointsr/Flipping

No sweat! Glad the damp rag seemed to work out well. I bought these microfiber cloths a while back that I use to clean up all my flips. They work great and don't shed any lint at all. Great for cleaning up shoes and getting into all the nubs on the bottom.

u/aywwts4 · 8 pointsr/Miata

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

u/SirMontego · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Costco will also repair a flat tire that was purchased from Costco, but you gotta deal with the super long Costco tire wait.

I guess the real LPT is if you get a flat tire, call the place you bought the tire from and they'll probably fix it for free.

In the alternative, learn to use a tire repair kit, like this.

u/Effimero89 · 2 pointsr/G35
  1. Get one of these
  2. Connect it and fill it partially.
  3. Turn the car on and let it warm up.
  4. Watch and see if bubbles come through the funnel. It's important you maintain the level in the funnel. As air comes out of the system the fluid will drop. So always have enough fluid.
  5. As you're doing this keep your heat blasting.
  6. Rev car, maintain fluid level, than check to see if hot air is there yet. Repeat over and over.
  7. Still no hot air? Go to your bleeder valve.
  8. Crack your bleeder valve. Don't screw it all the way off. Just crack it. If you have air stuck there it will look like you're opening a soda. Like bubbles seeping out edges.
  9. Watch it until you see fluid pushing out.
  10. Go back to your car that is still on and running and check your heater.
  11. No heat or some heat is normal. You should feel some heat.
  12. Keep going back and forth between cracking the valve and checking your heat. Do this over and over and you should slowly see your heat come back. Also revving your engine pushes the fluid around faster so do that as well.

    Notes: while you're doing the funnel method, the fluid may start to boil and and quickly rise causing it to over flow. Always keep an eye on this. Immediately turn off your car and wait about 30 mins and continue.

    Also, your bleeder valve is just a plastic screw that can easily get stripped with all of the opening and closing. Make sure your screw driver is an exact fit. Also, it helps to support it from the bottom when pushing down to open or close it. Wear gloves.

    If you can, raise the front end of the car on ramps or something. It helps the air move.
u/pushdose · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Honestly, I just use this stuff, Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All

Spray on, wipe with damp microfiber, wipe with dry microfiber. Takes me 4 cloths to clean my whole car. Granted, I live in Las Vegas and rarely get anything than dust on my vehicle. It’s really easy and looks great, every time.

u/Evo180x · 2 pointsr/camaro

Thanks!

I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.

Foam Cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Pressure Washer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBT3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=BG425GLTKNPI&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1555861387&s=gateway&sprefix=meguiars+gold+c%2Clawngarden%2C144&sr=8-7

​

Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.

u/Fuck_tha_Bunk · 3 pointsr/WRX

I used Goo Gone because it's gentle and I didn't want to risk stripping the clear coat or anything. Soaked it real good, waited 30 seconds or so and used one of THESE with a flat tip as a scraper. There were some very fine scratches afterwards. I could only see them with a flashlight and they came out easily with maguiers scratchx 2.0.

Since yours is newer the adhesive will probably come off easier than mine did.

u/LagunaGTO · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

All you need is 2 buckets and a good wash mitt/drying mf towel and good soap.

  • You can get the 2 buckets from home depot.

  • The wash mitt from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).

  • The soap from Autozone - Meguiar's Gold Class is good enough.

  • A drying towel from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).

    Use the power washer and hose at the self wash. Done.

    I recommend upgrading to a better wash mitt and drying MF over time.
u/boostedmioo · 1 pointr/boostedboards

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462848673&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+blue
Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)

Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!

u/marcthedrifter · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.


Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.

u/Turdsworth · 1 pointr/cars

I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505776624&sr=8-3&keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.

u/riggawaggel · 4 pointsr/Brooklyn

I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:

Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.

Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.

Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).

Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.

skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.

Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.

u/majesticjg · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

You want a non-rinse all-purpose cleaner/surfactant. Folex is one, Meguiars D101 is another.

Apply a bit, agitate with a soft upholstery brush, wipe up with a microfiber cloth.

Note: The D101 is a professional product which you dilute for use. If you want a ready-to-use version, try this, but you've just given up your ability to alter the dilution ratio. At 4:1, this stuff is a good tire cleaner and all around "clean anything that's not paint" cleaner. At 10:1 it's an interior cleaner. That big bottle will last you a long time.

u/Zokuta · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

u/lando55 · 3 pointsr/FZ07

The reviews on this are all over the map, but I love it. Once you spray it on it sticks to the rim and eats away at the chain lube, mud, and other road grossness that accumulates on your wheels. Get a nice solid brush to help reach into the crevices and enjoy your showroom wheels.

u/misterE_STL · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Sure. You're going to be running a power wire from the radar, across the top of your windshield, under the top part of your A-pillar, into the rubber trim, down to the side access, and into the fuse box. You're going to put an add-a-circuit in to put two fuses in one slot and share a fuse that turns on when the car is in accessory mode so the radar is only on when the car is on. These are the steps I took:



Step 1:
Mount the radar where you want it to be. I have mine above my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my windshield view at all and isn't visible from outside the car.



Step 2:
Plug the power wire into the radar.



Step 3:
Feel the top of the windshield where the headliner meets it. There's a roughly 1/4" gap there. Tuck the power wire into this gap, working your way towards the driver's side door. The red line is the path your wire will be taking.



Step 4:
When you get to the edge of the windshield, use one of the trim tools to gently pry the A-pillar cover just enough to allow you to tuck the wire into it. Get the wire flat and then push the cover back into place.



Step 5:
Tuck the wire in between the rubber trim on the door, working towards the dash.



Step 6:
Use the trim tool to pry off the side cover. It has 3 clips and should come out fairly easily.



Step 7:
Remove dash drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides towards the back.



Step 8:
Pull out a fuse, put it in your add-a-circuit, then put the add-a-circuit plug where you pulled the fuse from. The red arrow points to the fuse I chose.



Step 9:
Turn on the car and verify that the radar powers up and down with the car.



Step 10:
Velcro strap the excess power wire and tuck it out of the way.



Step 11:
Replace the drawer and side panel



Stuff to buy:

Power wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Direct-Power-Radar-Detectors/dp/B0003NN83U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497974491&sr=8-2&keywords=9500ix+hardwire



Add a circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Fusebox-Circuit/dp/B00UB9W92C/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UB9W92C&pd_rd_r=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M&pd_rd_w=AupqD&pd_rd_wg=ZwoBH&psc=1&refRID=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M



Fuse puller:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPFP2-Fuse-Puller-Pack/dp/B00CSBUFOU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497975152&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+puller



Trim tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/semi-comma · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

u/Chift · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.

I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.

The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.

I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.

I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!



u/twinturbogarage · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Sure

This is the one I currently use: Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tgFxb1M1HBR5
Literally the only CG product I own. I like that it's green so I can see the dirt. However here is one that is highly rated, but is blue, but if you don't mind that these ones seem good too, especially if you have a large vehicle. Plus you can dedicate one to the upper and lower half or however

Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0vgFxbQ8H8HA9

u/MehrunesBeardTrimmer · 2 pointsr/simracing

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

u/chevelle1258 · 0 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.

Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!

Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).

If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.

u/Eldanon · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I just do the Aero Wash Wax All once a week and sometimes spot clean when kids get their prints on the doors.

With my silver cars I barely ever did anything but I also cared a lot less. The black is a total finger print magnet. There aren’t any touchless washes close enough to me that I’d go to all the time. For now the 15 mins per week wash seems to work ok :)

u/r4x · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I actually LOVE the chemical guys gold MF towel

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=chemical+guys+microfiber&qid=1557973969&s=gateway&sprefix=chemical+guys&sr=8-3

I've used many different types of towels and these just suit me the best. They're cheap enough ( I got a pack of 12 for $16 so I bought as many as I could afford.)

They last a long time with proper care but ate cheap enough that I'm not afraid to toss them when necessary. Enjoy!

u/Bowflexing · 3 pointsr/350z

The easiest way is to just break down and pay for a Lisle funnel. They make the whole process incredibly easy and they're worth every penny. I spent a day or two dicking around with bubbles and squeezing and revving and all that and THEN bought the damn funnel. Or ask if a friend has one. It took 20 minutes to do and the system has been great for a few months now.

u/pixelbaron · 1 pointr/Guitar

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

u/Kong28 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

4: Nice coat of wax

How does that sound?

u/Kubi74 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/

These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.

-

Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/

This stuff will last a long time. great beading.

u/Tangent_ · 3 pointsr/cars

Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.

u/Steavee · 4 pointsr/4Runner

I went OEM because some of the aftermarket installs can have weird gremlins. The downside is that it’s limited to the range of your existing keyfobs. That and the fact that if you have the limited with the smart key the car shuts off when you open the door. I totally get why it works that way, it’s a feature not a bug and it’s not big deal, but some people are annoyed by that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBVU92I/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that fits the 2014-2017 models, there is a similar part number (search PT398-891X0) for earlier 5th gen models.

I had to do some googling and digging in the 4Runner forums to find the install documentation, but I think it was this thread. The instructions covered everything, it was really very straightforward and was 100% plug and play. I have a limited and factory security so I didn’t have to install the hood switch, but that doesn’t look too hard either. If those aren’t the correct instructions let me know and I’ll dig it off of my hard drive.

You’ll want to get some plastic panel popping tools off of amazon, I got these. Other than that you’ll just need some common hand tools for the bolts, a screw or two, and cutting the tails off of the zip ties you install. Oh, they recommend a torque wrench for the knee airbag you have to take out (it’s less scary than it sounds, I promise). I had a cheap harbor freight one and it worked fine, but I don’t think it would be the end of the world if you just tightened them with your socket wrench by feel to what they were when you removed it, they don’t seem like they would be mission critical for the airbag to still work, they just hold it in place.

To get it to work with your keys, they have to be programmed. While there are apparently ECU programming tools one can buy, they seemed sketch and getting the techstream software to work was a fucking nightmare (I had to run a VM with Windows XP, and that’s before the driver nightmares) so I recommend just taking all the keys into a Toyota dealer, mine programmed them for the remote start for ~$60. It might even be cheaper if you time it with a maintenance visit. In the end my dealer wanted $750 to install the factory remote start but buying it myself and only paying them for the keys I spent half of that and 90 minutes of my time.

Oh, and the little barrel shaped plastic screw-head cover on the passenger kickplate in the bottom right of the passenger floorboard waaaay up in the back? It unscrews, it doesn’t pull off. Remember that, it took me like 10 minutes to figure that out. That was probably the toughest part other than getting the wiring harness actually plugged in, it was a tight fucking fit with all the wires.

u/Jynxmaster · 1 pointr/videos

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

u/southhedge · 0 pointsr/Cartalk

If you think it's mostly through the tread I would just complete the puncture and use a plug kit to patch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b13u23_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0SA3YB452VVP3N16PZ0Y&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=659a304f-fb85-5f26-beb6-828a8e1c046a&pf_rd_i=15706711


I know a lot of folks will recommend a tire patch (as opposed to the plug) but are cheap and I've found them to be really effective. Very easy diy.

u/mrflarp · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The 0801 was discontinued as of June 1, so they should be starting to hit clearance prices. Kershawguy has it for $139 w/ free shipping and no sales tax. It is a great design. I've actually ended up with multiple of the different variants of this, but haven't had one of the "plain" ones. Maybe now is an opportune time to pick one up. ;)

As for the pivot coming loose, a bottle of threadlocker runs about $5 online or at your local hardware store. If you plan to be tinkering with your knives at some point, it's definitely worth picking one of these up. A single bottle will last you quite a long time.

u/vhalember · 12 pointsr/cars

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

u/bmcclure937 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Can you please link me to the MIC_506_12 you are looking at?

I found this 12 pack on Amazon... does not look like 46% off for me though. Still a pretty solid deal.

I am also curious, what would be a good use for these different microfiber:

  1. Zwipes (cheaper and thinner)
  2. Chemical Guys MIC_506_12
  3. Chemical Guys MIC_1024_3

u/striker1211 · 1 pointr/Toyota

I did it the hard way. It really wasn't that hard. You will need a set of trim removal tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG
and a drill bit and I think that was it. I don't even remember a screwdriver but you might have needed one. I followed a youtube video. I did it on a blazing hot day and get it done in 20 minutes. I remember my sweat dripping onto the rear cover thingy and evaporating as I looked down... I recommend doing it on a cool day because you will be under a big window :)

u/KinglyWeevil · 1 pointr/Showerthoughts

Pro-tip: Check engine lights are usually pretty easily repaired, but can indicate serious malfunctions inside your engine, and can cause all sorts of cascading problems down the line.

Since 1996, the OBD-II Interface has been standardized and is required in every vehicle sold in the US. So if you have a car in America, made after 1996 - you can do the following:

You can get one of these and an app on iOS/Android, and monitor all sorts of sensor information from your engine, as well as check and clear check engine light codes! It's very cool, and is something I use to monitor the health and performance of my engine on a daily basis.

The total investment is less than $20, and can grant a lot of peace-of-mind.

u/LordCider · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

It's actually very easy. I'm a total newbie - if you go through my posts, you'll see that I bought my first guitar in June and that the Rocksmith community helped a lot.

Since then I learned how to set up (truss rod, action, intonation, pickup height) and change the tuners/ bridges of my guitars. The key here is to not be afraid of your guitar anymore - I used to be scared shitless I would break it. No, I won't. The thing is tough as hell, and you need to first overcome that fear. Fun fact, the first guitar I tried to perform a setup on was a $1000 Gibson. I know, I'm stupid and should've tried with my cheaper guitars, but oh well.

All you really need to adjust the truss rod is the truss rod wrench (should come with your guitar if you bought it new), some sort of feeler gauge, an action ruler - I use it for the precise measures, a Phillips screwdriver & flathead, and an accurate tuner - I use the Polytune 2

If you'd like to learn, I could send some tips & noob advice I learned for myself. It's really easy - I PROMISE.

u/nakedjay · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

u/porkporkporkpork · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

u/HugeMongo · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

> Does the wheel come with transmission stick?

I wouldn't call it a transmission stick. This is my wheel, wich is on the cheap side. It has a stick but is just like two buttons you can push with it. More expensive wheels let you connect better sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

or if you have money to burn you can buy something like this

u/thiosk · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

oh my! Thank you for the detailed info and for providing technical information. For the lags, i'm still coming familiar with the vocabulary here- would that be a product like the SDW EWP-Ply Screw?

Some of that is higher level than im potentially capable of this summer I think, so I'll start with the spirals.

​

For the locktite, I presume we'd want to use a product like this

​

Thank you again for the suggestions!

u/SouthernAutoSpa · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:

Reset - https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-500ml-17oz/

Hydr02 - https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-sealants-spray-wax/carpro-hydro2-lite-1-liter/

Meguiars Gold Class - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549208569&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!

u/xmusic123 · 1 pointr/Guitar

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

u/apescapes · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Yes, and easy enough to do yourself. It helps to have a trim tool to help pull panels and tuck wires in.

u/oldtoolfool · 2 pointsr/handtools

No problem grasshopper. Those stems are actually hard to remove, so congratulations. This makes it easier for the knob issue, now you can soak it in kero laced with PB and it will come, you can also mount the stem in a vice (use scrap wood or leather to protect the threads. As to the stem, clean it well, then when you reinsert it use some Loctite and it will be fine. Vintage tool restoration is not for the faint of heart. Again, patience, and you will overcome.....

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

u/Inathero · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

You could grab some light-weight loctite like loctite blue: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/

Then put a very very small amount on the threads, screw them as tight as you can, and let them sit. They'll be secure. And since you're using something like loctite instead of super glue, you can still unscrew them (though it'll take a lot more effort)

u/phil128 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

u/firewally · 1 pointr/rollerderby

Some Lexol leather conditioner will do wonders for the general dryness. Nothing lasts forever, but keep high-quality leather properly conditioned (for skates, I'd say condition every 3-6 months or so) and it'll last a long long time.

Any cobbler should be able to fix little things like a broken strap. I live in a northern city so it's easy to find shops that specialize in hockey boots, but anyone who works on boots regularly would be a good choice. You could also contact the manufacturer (if they still are in business) to see if they offer a recrafting service - they usually love to see their well-worn boots come in for a little TLC.

u/sdriv3r · 1 pointr/motorcycles

It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.

I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.

u/DifficultBoss · 1 pointr/MTB

Are you using a sponge, brush, or something else? I’ve had best luck with an automotive wash mitt like this.

u/WheelWhiffCelly · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Meguiar's smooth surface clay kit. First time claying for me so take what I say with several grains of salt haha. Seemed to work pretty well, I did have to really focus on certain spots though (I think I had some sort of adhesive or glue from the dealership days)