(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best av remote controls & accessories

Thanks so much for your help! If you don't mind, I am going ahead and responding to all of the other relevant comments under this one reply and linking them to this one. If I'm talking about something that you never mentioned, feel free to ignore!

I just got back from a 2 hour drive to the nearest hifi shop. After much listening, I think that I am going to go with the B&W CM Series.

Tower: CM9

Center: CM Centre 2

Rear: CM5

Sub: ASW10CM

*Note: I have read that the this sub is nothing to write home about. Would the Epik Empire Sub be a better idea or do you know a different sub that would be better? I've heard wonderful things about this one—I just want to make sure that everything sounds nicely together (so the B&W sub might be a better idea?)!




At the store, I really enjoyed listening to these components with my music—does anyone have any experience with these?



Relatedly, since I got home, I have read tons of sites that say these CM9s put a HUGE load on the system. Here is a post with numbers and info that I don't quite understand that explains it: Audioholics post. The CM9s are rated at 8ohm and 89db, but this post says that these numbers are very wrong. After reading how much a pre-pro/amp setup would benefit these speakers, I am thinking that I should forget about the Denon 3312 and go with a proper pre-pro and amp (or maybe get the 3312 and an amp?). However, I know NOTHING about pre-pros and amps. Do you have any advice on what models I should look into? All I know is that I'm OK spending money on something that isn't just an introductory level setup (like a receiver that is only adequate or the cheapest pre-pro/amp setup) if it will pay off in the long-term.


Regarding your comment about my small room, room gain, frequencies, and crossover—what the heck is that? I have a science background, but is there an audiophile bible or well-known guide of some sort that can help me with all of this (preferably something that isn't several hundred pages or too technical)? I am clueless about things like optimal speaker/sub placement in a room, how close to a wall speakers/subs should be, optimal crossover/passthrough, how to avoid blowouts, etc. and would love to learn.


Regarding remotes, a friend gave me his Harmony 1100. Joebilly, I know that you said the Harmony One is the best, but how does this one compare? I could easily sell this one and get the Harmony One without spending any money out of pocket—is that a good move?

Next, where should I buy these components? The shop offered me 20% off their retail prices if I buy most of this from them. However, I have no idea if their prices are too high in the first place—not to mention taxes. Is there a website that has good prices? Or are there any tips to getting a better discount?


Lastly, is there a way to tell if the music that I have in my library was created for 2-channel or 5.1 (short of listening to it both ways)?


Again, thanks so much everyone. Music is my life, and yall are all helping me make such a great system!

I wanted to do something like this, but the unfortunate reality is that too few things support keyboard/controller inputs for navigating their interface. Netflix, both the app and the site, is an example of one that simply requires a mouse input. The tile menu used to be this way too, but that may no longer be the case.

I get by by staying within Kodi as much as I can get away with it, because it has great support for almost any peripheral. I use the Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple Remote and it suits my needs perfectly - but there are likely less expensive alternative ones available. This has the convenience of Bluetooth control and of course the fact that it's a universal remote that can handle all the devices in your system. And I've successfully configured the red button to act as Alt-F4 when pressed down for ~1 second (and blue to open Kodi, green to toggle full screen).

For things that require mouse navigation, I use my Steam Controller, but I used to use my xbox controller with XPadder, a utility that allows you to create custom control sets for any program including emulated mouse control for things like Netflix. However, the Steam Controller is a substantial upgrade in that department due to its trackpads, gyro control, and direct Steam integration.

Feel free to ask any other questions; I've been molding my gaming PC into the ultimate HTPC for the past three years, so I've been through a lot of trial and error!

> P.S. I know nothing about coding or Linux, so for me this could either be an awesome project or a complete disaster.

You might also be able to do it on Windows, but I've always used Linux. Linux is more customizable, so if it's an old outdated computer then you can configure it to basically only run XBMC without all of the other stuff in the background, and hopefully you'll still get decent performance even though the computer is old and slow. Not having all of the background programs running and slowing it down really makes a difference. I'm doing this with an old laptop from 2007 with screen problems, and it works for me.

> Would this work with any old TV like a CRT type?

Yes, but it requires an adapter. Most flat screen LCD/Plasma/LED TVs have a VGA port (blue computer monitor port) built in. That makes it easy because you can just hook up the TV to your laptop as if it is a regular computer monitor. An old CRT TV probably only has the red, white, and yellow RCA hookups and the coaxial cable. That means that you are going to need some sort of an adapter, like this. If you have the red, yellow, and white inputs, then you are good to go with regard to video. If you don't, then you will have to get an RF modulator to convert the video to coax.

If you are unsure about your ability to get it running, then it would be worth trying first before buying this stuff. You should be able to get it running using your current external monitor without having to buy anything. Once you get it running, then you can buy the adapter if you want. It is only needed for hooking the computer up to the TV.

After that, you are basically good to go but you will be using your computer's speakers for sound. If you want to use your TV speakers for sound, that is easy to do. Just get something like this and plug one end into your headphone jack and the other end into the TV.

And if you want a remote control, here is the exact remote that I'm using. Any USB remote should work. I basically just chose the cheapest one I could find. I kind of like it, though, because it allows me to control the mouse as well.

To complicated and confusing. Can you cut to the chase?

You knocked something into something ... then what happened?

"I accidentally kick the hi-fi and knocked it onto the tuner." ...and then ...what?

So, what is it you need? Seemingly a remote, but what happened to the existing remote?

The remote had a AUX/MD switch, but what is MD?

You CAN NOT run the speakers directly from the Computer.

If you want a full universal remote, nothing beats the Logitech Harmony Remotes. Harmony has many thousands of devices that they support, and you can check them in advance on-line to be sure your device is supported.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Infrared-Universal-Programmable/dp/B004OVECU0/

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-350-Simple-Set-up/dp/B00J7KM5X4/

I use the Harmony 350 with Rotel, Onkyo, Yamaha Stereos with out any problem or conflict.

You plug the Remote into a computer USB input, the go to MyHarmony.com, enter your equipment, it is automatically programmed through the USB connection. No messing with codes or pushing the On/Off button 50 times.

https://www.myharmony.com/en-us/

Now if you want to replace your amp, then consider what features you need and how much money you want to spend. You can get a very good very reasonably price Amp w/DAC and decent power for a pretty reasonable price -

SMSL AD-18 Class-D Amp with DAC - $139 -

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/

You will find several very positive reviews of this product on YouTube, this being one of many -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEooiaet9eQ

There are many of these Class-D/Class-T amps available on Amazon, the prices range from about $25 up to about $150 depending on brand, power, and features.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=smsl+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=lepai+lepy+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=topping+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

I'm still not sure what the problem is or what you need, but hopefully I've given you some options to consider.

I have the Harmony 1100 with an RF extender. It looks nice (and impressive) works great, and has on screen controls for stuff like the xbox giving you the A,B,X,Y controls; which is good for stuff like Netflix so you dont have to waste your xbox controller battery. Great for multiple devices, I think it can handle up to 15. Its really simple and intuitive to use too.

The ultimate remote. Literally.

I bought one of these when I moved in with my now wife a few years ago. She didn't like my collection of remotes and remote keyboard, she just wanted to be able to turn on Bravo. Best thing I ever did. Automating activities makes turning things on/off correctly a snap. For a keyboard you can get one of these. Whatever you turn on that accepts a bluetooth keyboard - PC, PS4, Fire TV, whatever - the keyboard is automatically connected to it. I wouldn't try playing Quake on it, but it works great for web browsing. Battery in the remote dies? No problem, open up the Harmony app on a phone or tablet and work it that way while the remote charges.

I've since set up cheaper Harmony Companions to control the bedroom TVs, since I use Xbox 360s as media center extenders for live TV. My daughter has some Philips smart bulbs and it controls them as well. Overall I've come to love Harmony Hub based products, they just work.

Yes the Shield is by far the best Android TV box (though I have a MiBox as well and it's decent)

The Shield comes with a little remote in addition to the gamepad. I tried several replacement remotes and this one was by far the best one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XX6488/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has several ways to support Live TV. HDHomerun with antenna for free OTA, or streaming services such as DirecTVNow, YouTubeTV, PSVue.

So, it MUST be in progressive mode (there's a "progressive" button at the top). I'm not sure when progressive mode is made active, but it looks like that mode isn't added to each game until it is fully archived (ballstreams uses the DVR flash (many 3mb files) to instantly archive). Once you start loading the video in progressive mode, you'll see the x GB file available for download.

Though I prefer this method, you have to wait some time before its available. Last night, I found myself just using Flash DVR with my computer hooked up via HDMI. I have a [remote] (http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-Wireless-Remote-Control-Mouse/dp/B001M56DI0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1383257750&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+pc) (small version) that I use to skip forward and back 10 seconds (L/R arrows), play/pause (L mouse click), and control the mouse to do 30 sec, 2 min, 10 min, 17 min, or 30 min jumps. Worked like a charm last night and I was able to efficiently get through about 4 full games and watch 4th quarters of about 5 others. If I could download the file in progressive mode, I would be even more efficient (because skips/jumps would happen instantly in VLC, but they take about 3-4 sec in Flash DVR), but I didn't feel like waiting that long. But this is more info than you asked for.

1. I'd highly recommend checking out the Blu-Link Universal Remote. Love that remote, and it's the only one I need now.
   
2. To be fair, a lot of of that is because you use your PS3 less, so it seems like much more. Also worth note is that PSN+ is awesome, and auto-installs a lot of stuff for you.

Here is the support article that I mentioned from the creator of the plugin.

The one I bought was from Amazon located here, so if anyone else wants to try and set this up you should avoid this one.

I just bought this one instead which is the RM Pro not the RM2 Pro. It should be here today and I will test it and see if it functions correctly and give an update. I'm not sure what the difference between the RM Pro and the RM2 Pro is but from the descriptions on the product pages they seem to have the same functionality. Here's hoping it works with the RM Tasker Plugin.

Edit: I just got the second one and it works perfectly with the RM Tasker Plugin. So if you are in the US and you are trying to figure out which one to buy, get this one.

Also, some interesting differences to note between them:

1. The first one I got came with firmware version 20024 and when I tried to update it through the app it said there was no update available, even though I know that the most recent firmware is v20025. The second one came with firmware v20022 and was able to update to the newest firmware v20025 with ease through the automatic update process in the app.
   
2. The first one was not able to learn the remote for my ceiling fan which operates on 303Mhz frequency. The second one is able to operate it without issue.

No, but you could get an IR remote and receiver. There are fancy ones too but come at more cost.

As far as I know, you would need 3rd party software to accomplish switching monitors such as MultiMonitorTool. Assuming you have windows 8 64bit, here is the direct link.

1. Extract the files to C:\MMT
   
2. Right click on MultiMonitorTool.exe and click Send to-> Desktop create shortcut.
   
3. Open the program.
   
4. The program shows you your displays. Determine what is what from the "Name" column. Suppose it's display 2:
   
5. Right click on your new shortcut on the desktop and click properties. Adjust the target to look like this:
   C:\MMT\MultiMonitorTool.exe /switch \\.\DISPLAY2
   
   Press OK. Then use the shortcut to toggle display 2 on and off.

Why not get get an all in one like the one I use or this one maybe this is more to your liking. A couple more essentially identical and awkward options are this one and this one. There's more choices too if you didn't like those, take this one for example or if you just want to have some fun (doesn't have keyboard, consider it an honorable mention). These are links to universal remotes with a keyboard on the back. Some have trackpads like those found on laptops, while some use an "air mouse" (think Wii control). Some use regular batteries (AA/AAA) while others use built in rechargeable batteries.

About a year ago I started looking around for a way to control my TV and HTPC with one remote. I originally wanted to go with a FLIRC paired with a Harmony control to use so that I could use WMC (with Youtube, Hulu+, Netflix and Plex "plugins"). Ultimately I decided against it due to the lack of a keyboard. After looking around I stumbled upon these. I went with the Rii due to the form factor and the WAF.

--Below is my review of the "Rii mini i13 4 in 1 Wireless Multmedia Air Fly Mouse Keyboard (Black)"--

I am mostly pleased with this setup but there are a few kinks, most notably the battery. At first it was great, no batteries to swap out and it held a charge for about a month before it was time to recharge. But now, a year later, I have to recharge it every couple days. It still works fine but I don't know if I should buy another one, try to replace the battery when it does die, or try something different. There is no way EASY way to open it, and honestly I don't think it could withstand to many battery swaps since it's made of this flimsy plastic. Truly think I'm lucky to have had it as long as I have.

Another thing is that the buttons themselves feel indistinguishable from one another which makes night time use/viewing a bit difficult, wish there was a backlight. I'd also like to mention that I have an issue with the mouse.

As mentioned earlier the mouse is similar to using a Wii, with one difference the Wii pointer only goes to where you aim the control. This mouse works with relative motion to move the cursor. Imagine you just scrolled the cursor to the far right corner of your monitor, you can keep moving your mouse further right but the cursor won't move any further. That means if you did a 180° then you'd still be controlling the mouse even though you are now facing the wall. This makes navigation a little frustrating. Add to that the mouse's sensitivity mixed with no stabilization makes clicking and dragging a chore. Never realized I had a shake in my hands until I held this remote. I remedied this by simply disabling the mouse in Windows. I realized I wasn't using it so I disabled it.

The last thing I had issues with was that there is no real concrete instruction manual. Just some small quick start guide. After spending some time with it, I rather enjoyed experience.

Your best bet for quality and latency will be a balun or KVM device with transmitter and receiver; linked is just an example, I use Crestron and Extron stuff with great success, but it can be expensive. You will have to run ethernet cable and possibly terminate yourself.

There are wireless HDMI products out there, but I have not used them. I install AV systems; if you end up getting the wireless, will you PM me with the results?

As for the sound, with either option, HDMI carries audio along with the video. Your TV probably has an analog audio output; either a 3.5mm jack or white and red stereo RCA jacks--6 foot cables linked respectively. It will only be stereo, but it is the easiest route to take, IMO.

Minix Neo A2 Lite is about as good as it gets, not backlit but just an awesome remote.

https://www.amazon.com/MINIX-Control-Wireless-Keyboard-Gyroscope/dp/B0769HF18C

I also have this remote which is good as well, it is half the price and backlit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077XX6488

edit
The second is now a different remote, it's not backlit like the one I have.

Including images of both.

https://i.imgur.com/uT9DyoR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9nV3mD9.jpg

2 keys to the Siri remote:

1. A case helps give some grip to it. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6LO5SK/
   
2. Touching up/down/left/right on the touchpad is more effective than swiping in the direction you want to move. "Tapping" without "clicking" is one of those non-obvious but super useful actions with the remote.

I've had it for a year now, so I would recommend a newer CPU/Motherboard. And please note that this unit is only up to running old arcade games, not something that takes a lot of display horsepower. Here is the system I built, it is running OpenELEC:

Case - Thermaltake Element Q - $75

Motherboard/CPU/APU - Asus AT5IONT-I - $180

Memory - Kingston 4GB (2 x 2GB) - $30

SSD - Crucial M4 64GB - $73

Blu-ray Drive - I have a discontinued Sony Optiarc full height unit - I would recommend - Asus Black 12X BD-ROM - $53

A couple of items that made the build easier:

10" SATA Cables - $10

1 Foot Right Angle Power Cord - $9

TOTAL: $430

EDIT: I forgot the remote. Any Windows Media remote works, I chose this one ($21) since its IR unit seemed to have a wide angle of signal capture, which it does. I also have a small mini-keyboard/remote ($37) for those times I need it.

EDIT II: I also forgot that I have a HD HomeRun ($90) to support TV. Storage is handled by a Startech 2 Drive Enclosure ($72) with 2 WD AV-GP WD20EURS 2TB ($120 each) These will be replaced by a server when I can afford it.

This makes a grand total that might not be so attractive: $430 for the HTPC + $460 for peripherals and storage = $890

There are products, but they are not cheap.

A 1080p signal, even at 30 fps is a very high bandwidth. Luckily you only have a short distance to cover, so you probably won't have issues with signal strength, but its a lot more expensive than buying an HDMI cable.

60 GHz wireless HDMI transmitter 1080p 60 Hz + audio: $175

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077LKEKQ?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=as2&creative=374929&camp=211189

Various other tech:

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-wireless-hdmi-video-transmitter/

There are probably better and cheaper products than these, but I haven't researched them much so I couldn't say.

You can use something a lot cheaper, like Chromcast for example, although I believe it uses a compressed signal so it will have worse latency and image quality, and it maxes out at 720p.

Yeah, I get it. Some folks put a sticker on the back or bottom of the remote to help with orientation. A strip of felt. Or even googly-eyes. Anything to help differentiate top from bottom.

There are some good case options out there too, seem to help with ergonomics and add heft. I'm considering this one: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B01K6LO5SK/ref=nosim/appleink

2 things Steam should do.

1. Invest into creating "HDMI + USB Wireless transmitter." I don't think that exists... but HDMI Wireless Transmitters exist... Something like that while incorporating USB devices. So I can just hit a keybind or something on my computer and send my computer to the living room. (EDIT Found something that could work. Actiontex My Wireless TV. The Steam page on Big Screen Mode, mentions WHDI devices as an option, but says they are still rough. Steam links to this page listing out different WHDI devices if anybody is interested. WHDI devices)
   
   
2. Source games like L4D2 and Portal 2 have Local-Coop hidden in their config files. To enable it you need to manually edit the config file for the 2nd controller, and type in some console commands to enable it all. Steam, needs to incorportate local coop into their PC games. If you're going to be using the living room TV, other people aren't going to want to watch when they could potentially be playing too.

It's really easy to set up, the wand is a remote control wand which can be set up to any one or multiple infrared devices, mine is set to control the TV and the candles. It uses gestures to control stuff, great for changing TV channels/volume etc.. It can have, I think, 13 different gestures set up and works quite well too.

The candles are battery powered remote controlled candles. I attached clear thread to them and blue tacked them to the ceiling.

This one is great. Grippy, easy to pick up, tell which end is up and fits perfectly. Fintie Apple TV remote case

The [Blu-Link] (http://www.amazon.com/SMK-Link-Blu-Link-Universal-Remote-Control-Pc/dp/B002LARYGA) Remote is a far better option. Works great and instantly with the PS3 and is an awesome universal Remote

ah ok didn't realize there was a passive version, those do look pretty nice!
 
Since you already bought the Q5 and the remote seems like an important feature to you, i must say that the included remote is kinda chintzy, generic device thing that needs much better aiming than a usual TV remote does. however the Logitech Harmony line of remotes does work with the Q5.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J7KM5X4
Basic remote, 40 new 25-30 used
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ5RYI4
Fancy IR blaster hub thing that makes your smartphone a universal remote for everything. 100 new but often goes on sale for 70, can set a price alert.

Bought this last week and couldn't be happier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_3P-0Db1AKDHHN

USB remote, not Bluetooth. But it has a working mic button and an air mouse feature which is really really nice for when I'm using Firefox to watch some sports streams or if I'm sharing my desktop using gamestream. The airmouse is gesture based so you can wave the remote around. Takes a few minutes to get used to but works really well.

Since it's not Bluetooth, there's zero delay when you press a button and the dedicated power button is really nice.

> IR emitters are like $10 and aren't compatible with the Xbox one

Did you mean "are compatible"?

The Xbox One has IR blaster output on the back. Like you said, emitters are cheap enough.

> As for the mic, you'd need some 360 degree mic solution, perhaps Microsoft will sell one.

Take the Kinect, remove the cameras, and leave the mic array with its beam forming support, noise cancellation, etc. In terms of correctly identifying a single voice among noise without generating false positives, I've not found a better mic.

I'm still trying to figure out how to get one of these shipped to the US. I think that paired up with one of these would be amazing. It would be super easy to pack away when I travel.

This guy. I've loved it. Does my Apple tv. Tv receiver and DVD player. My kid likes to grab my Apple TV remote and grind it on the tile as he crawls sound the house. So I hide it and his big sister uses this remote.

Logitech Harmony 350 for Universal Control of Up To 8 Entertainment Devices ( Certified Refurbished ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y34TAA0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jqn-Ab37FBNRX

Yes, you could use a laptop to serve as a media center pc. A laptop will probably have an HDMI out port, which you can hook up into HDMI in on the TV. You could also use a tower PC, which would [probably] give you more connection options such as VGA and DVI. That's it, really. Just access the dropbox folder on the PC and play the videos. If this PC will be on a network and there are other PC's, you could access that [or network attached storage] instead of dropbox; not relying on internet connectivity.

Something like this might work for control, but it's best to use mouse & keyboard.

I use a 3rd party remote that runs on 2 AAA's & replace them maybe twice a year on my main box that gets heavy use daily.

Works great on both the Shield Pro & Mi Box without issue & the air mouse functionality is beyond useful!

Would you do not for a scooby snack?
This key remote would be awesome to change channels in restaurants

Creepy story.. Well I'm pretty sure I have a ghost that lives with me.. I randomly hear the doorknob wiggle or weird noises or sometimes the door will close on its own. But so far it's a nice ghost.

The is the best remote that I've found. I've bought three because my dog likes them too. It has it and is programmable.

[Edit] forgot to post the link so here it is Wechip 2.4G Smart TV Wireless Keyboard Fly Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787Z1C2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nDAwDbRNR7G6N

Just the Officially Licensed model. If it craps out I'll buy the smaller one that came out, but I'm fairly happy with it.

This is it: https://smile.amazon.com/Universal-Remote-Control-Receiver-playstation-4/dp/B01KICHFQQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1538433459&sr=1-4&keywords=ps4+remote

It's not perfect, but it works for me. Though I freely admit that I use my PS3 more for blu-ray playback and such. Not a fan of the changes they made for the PS4 control setup!

Based on this amazon listing (https://www.amazon.co.uk/NECO-MK1-Remote-NEW/dp/B00BZ0VG5C) it looks like the remotes are using 433mhz which is a pretty common frequency for RF remotes because it has good wall penetration and range.

There are a bunch of good tutorials online for sniffing 433 mhz codes from remote controls (i.e. http://www.princetronics.com/how-to-read-433-mhz-codes-w-raspberry-pi-433-mhz-receiver/) using a raspberry pi and 433mhz transceiver sensors.

Another good option is the Broadlink RM Pro which is a supported component in home assistant (https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B01GIXZDKO) which takes some of the hassle of sniffing / sending the codes out of the equation. As a bonus it also does IR transmission so it can control TVs / other devices that utilize infrared (line of sight) instead of 433mhz (longer range).

Personally, I setup the 433mhz sensors before coming across the broadlink devices so I bought the slightly cheaper RM Mini 3 which only does IR but I imagine the RM Pro is just as simple to setup with 433Mhz + IR.

Thanks for the comment. Trying to not sound dumb here. Is that what I'm looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Emitter-Extender-Extension-Cable/dp/B019Z5PDB6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478791792&sr=1-4&keywords=ir+blaster

The idea is to have the IR blasters hooked into the cable boxes, then the harmony hub can connect to the boxes throughout the house, even if it doesn't have a line of sight, right? Then I should be able to control them through the echo --> harmony skill.

Oh mai gawd... Will you marry me??? the weirdest thing my exgf ever let me put up her pussy was a licorice wand... but she never let me put in my wand from the HP theme park... I got my other wand in though if you know what I am sayin ;) the one that I bought to control my TV. Its actually pretty cool

http://www.amazon.com/Kymera-Magic-Wand-Remote-Control/dp/B002SJKWZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322714310&sr=8-1

But seriously I did nail her. I am not a forever alone Harry Potter Fanboy virgin...

Unless the TV remote has multi device capability you're stuck. I would consider a good universal like a Harmony 350 $35. Program it with your TV, stereo and cable and you should be good. Have the volume effect the receiver not the tv and you're in business. The web control makes it very easy to program the unit.

I actually really want this for myself but it is a magic wand remote control. It is easily the coolest remote ever!
http://www.amazon.com/Kymera-Magic-Wand-Remote-Control/dp/B002SJKWZ4

Or since you are in the Northeast you might want a more practical gift so I would recommend the viking beanie.
http://beardhead.com/vikingcombo.html

Join the club. The remote isn't great, even after you get used to it.

Here's why it sucks even if you DO get used to it. When your mother / father / babysitter / in-law / friend comes over, and you hand them the remote, the learning starts over from scratch. So annoying. If you think back to a normal D-pad on a remote or a touchscreen like an iPhone, it's so intuitive - you can get the hang of it on the first try. The ATV remote is not like that at all.

FWIW, we bought this case for the remote. It's grippy, makes it fit in the hand better, makes it harder to lose, and makes it so you never hold it upside down.

You are on the right track. You might be able to find HDMI adapters that will use a single cable, but if you can't these ones from Monoprice would work. They use 2 cables though, since HDMI has more than 8 wires usually.

You seem to have a nicely made setup, I'm sure you will figure it out!

Edit : You have Cat6, therefore you can use these ones from Amazon. They will use a single cable by using a higher frequency (that's why they need Cat6 or higher).

Hue is Zigbee. These appear to be BlueTooth.

They will not talk to each other. Only Zigbee bulbs, and not ALL Zigbee bulbs, can work with Hue.

If you're looking for a cheaper alternative to Hue bulbs and don't care about color changing, GE Link bulbs work great with them.

There are a variety of IR controlled bulbs that are pretty cheap and are at least possibly controlled via the IR functions associated with a Harmony Hub and its very basic home automation features. But I can't guarantee any specific bulb with it. Check the MyHarmony forums if you're interested in that.

These are pretty good. Air mouse. Point it at screen to move cursor around.

Wechip 2.4G Smart TV Wireless Keyboard Fly Mouse W1 Multifunctional Remote Control for Android TV Box/PC/Smart TV/Projector/HTPC/All-in-one PC/TV (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787Z1C2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_RzJACbCJSYBZZ

Mine stealth tv remote

I work security and this would help me with my job by amusing me. I think the maintenance crew is bored of sports and would like some soaps.

Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike Mike have fun at work!

You haven't specified what kind of cabling or resolution you're looking for. HDMI cabling tends to be unreliable at distances of 50'-75', so I wouldn't recommend going that route. VGA will handle that distance without any problem, but you won't get full HD with VGA--you'd top out at just under 720p resolution.

I would opt for the CAT5 adapters myself if a projector is a 100% unfeasible solution. Although I do have a wireless HDMI box that works out fine for me at home I could recommend. Might not be feasible in a live setting due to interference, blocked signals and whatnot though.

Sure, if you pair this or this or one of these with this. Evidently the remote even has a way to program in TV remote codes.

However, fair word of warning, in my opinion none of the android smart TV devices are as consumer friendly as Roku or Apple TV or Google TV or Boxee Box.

That's one way - it's what I do. The other way is to put the Harmony Hub in a media cabinet and run an IR emitter/extender cable (that plugs into the Harmony hub) to a position where it can see all the components that need to be controlled. Here are reviews for an IR extender cable being used with the Harmony Hub.

I use a Flirc USB with my Fire TV and then a basic Logitech 350 (refurbished to save me some $$$).

Much nicer looking and it works surprisingly well.

So here's the thing, the box that Comcast gives you is probably just a digital tuner, and so it can only decompress one (maybe two) videos at a time. I put this device at the place where the cable comes into my house. I then have to control it with an RF remote control. I picked up this thing that turns the remote into an RF remote for around $20:

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290966267&sr=8-1

You may want to watch the prices. The downside to this is that every TV in the house shares the same signal, so you can't watch two things at once. This is ok for me, but if you live with several people, it may not be ideal. Also, I don't have any HDTVs, so the "cable out" from this box is fine for me. Obviously, this won't work if you want to use some other kind of cabling between the box and your TV (unless you have it running though your house - I suppose it wouldn't be too tough to do that).

So, I don't pay for a box for every TV - just one. It also has the added benefit that my DVR'd shows are accessible from any TV.

I second the Harmony Remote. I have had 4 or 5 over the years (currently using a Harmony 700 and Harmony 650) and all have worked REALLY well. No problems with my Roku2 XS or my Roku 3 with them. It controls my TV, my soundbar, my xbox, my air conditioner, etc!

Note the Harmony 350 (which I have NO experience with but should be the same as any of the other harmony remotes, minus the screen, as far as I know) is only $39 at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Universal-Control-Entertainment/dp/B00J7KM5X4

U.S. Sellers:

Amazon for $79.99 and free shipping

Think Geek for $89.99 + $9 shipping

U.K. Seller:

UK Amazon for £40.78 and free shipping

Yeah, I actually traded my old fat ps3 with partial ps2 compatibility for a slim ps3 just for this.

I still ended up using this remote though, it's nice because it has bluetooth for the PS3 and the other inputs are fully programmable. Even with that it's nice to be able to control the PS3 with either the bluetooth or with IR through the TV.

Yep! By far the best upgrade I've made to the shield experience. Link for the curious/lazy:


WeChip G20 Remote Control 2.4G Wireless Voice Control Sensing Air Remote Mouse for Nvidia Shield Remote Replacement PC Android TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I6DTDb7PQ7WRM

WeChip G20 Remote Control 2.4G Wireless Voice Control Sensing Air Remote Mouse for Nvidia Shield Remote Replacement PC Android TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fJmQDbCG4H6VY

It feels cheap and makes a high pitch noise up close, but it works great. Just got 2 new ones last month

Looks like mine is out of stock, I just looked. Checkout the rii mx6.
This will be my next remote purchase. I know people with Rii who vouch for it and this model looks great.
https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Wireless-Keyboard-Microphone-Raspberry/dp/B077XX6488

Someone could reverse engineer the protocols and write a Windows driver or whatever I'm sure but to my knowledge no-one has done that yet.

Have you considered an air mouse instead? These days they are most commonly found integrated with wireless "remotes" but there are probably some solutions that are better tailored to the PC use case if you look around. They utilize an IMU just like the Go controller. Not quite so ergonomic though.

I have this one which I don't really use for much, and this one which I use with a Shield TV box (it comes in handy for interacting with sideloaded Android apps that are difficult or impossible to control properly with the standard remote). I've checked and they both work with Windows as an air mouse.

Lucky for me, my WAF is doing okay with the rpi 3+.the key was buying a remote that had a full keyboard on the back.

I got a Wechip 2.4G Smart TV Wireless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787Z1C2G

I also run a Shield TV (for plex, YouTube, and such). Out of curiosity, what do you use for mythtv playback on the shield?

I'll just leave this here :) http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

Yay wireless technologies :)

I have the computer running through my regular stereo receiver via HDMI and I use this remote with XBMC and it works just fine. I also use the official XBMC remote on my phone and my Nexus 7 but the regular remote is generally more convenient.

In my bedroom I have the same remote and Logitech Z 5500 Speakers and they are really awesome but apparently discontinued.

The cheap remote worked without any setup at all in Linux. But there is no button for the context menu, one of these days I am going to get around to figuring out how to map a key for it.

The Ultimate has been discontinued, but that's good for you, because on Amazon you can get it for $180 (and it's normally $300).

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Ultimate-Customizable-Cabinet/dp/B00BQ5RY1G

I really, really wish that Sony would allow third party controllers to work with the PS4 so we could have a Bluetooth remote. Seriously, I'm blown away that this functionality isn't included. I still use my PS3 for all media playback because I have this remote that controls all of my devices via IR, plus my PS3 via Bluetooth. I really want to upgrade to a Harmony remote setup, but I'm not going to bother unless I can use it to control media playback on my PS4.

But... that's exactly what it is. I have this and it works great. It "hears" the em "noise" your remote makes when you push a button and then amplifies it. The receiver then interprets it and converts it to an IR signal and transmits it through a wire out of a little IR emitter that adheres to the receiver on the device.

Edit: I found my old Amazon order (7 years ago). Here is the product page:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C1Z0HA

Your best bet is focusing on automating the Fireplace RF remote with SmartThings. The Broadlink RM Pro will supposedly act as a RF Bridge.

I purchased one for $38 to attempt to automate my own Gas Fireplace insert - but the SmartThings integration part was more complicated than I expected, and ended up in the bin of unfinished projects.

Its cheap & somewhat promising - if you're up for a project you might check into it.

I use this one instead of the nvidia remote and best part is no batteries

Wechip 2.4G Smart TV Wireless Keyboard Fly Mouse W1 Multifunctional Remote Control for Android TV Box/PC/Smart TV/Projector/HTPC/All-in-one PC/TV (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787Z1C2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SIZ2DbFESQ6VJ

Can I get a little more detail as to why you said this? I see that what you suggested seems to cost $349 on amazon whereas I already have a logitech harmony one remote that this $25 would allow me to control my ps3 with.

Convert the fan to rf controller and get the HA rf controller here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIXZDKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yA4qzbDHBN2CV

Logitech 996-000118 Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple Remote (Refurbished) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5H1IQM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wuePub0J5J985

I have this one:

Logitech 996-000118 Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple Remote (Refurbished) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5H1IQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wQGsyb9KGY1MY

definitely not the only player. This is cheaper and has RF support RM Broadlink

I think the PDP remote is good. There's 2 versions though. This one on Amazon is newer and fixes a few annoying problems with the original, but they look exactly the same. The boxes for the newer ones say increased battery life on the front.

If your soundbar manufacturer is on this list, there's a decent chance it will work. https://support.pdp.com/hc/en-us/articles/218754977-What-is-the-Manufacturer-s-code-to-connect-my-remote-to-my-AMP-

Close, $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32 They work pretty well, using one to mirror our living room tv to our kitchen at the moment.

I haven't tried using something like this but they appear to support IR and 1080p HDMI over a single Cat6 up to around 200 feet.

If you wanted to go up to 4K it gets a lot more expensive and you need 2x Cat6 cables.

https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B01GIXZDKO

One of these may do what you need.

There are tasker/IFTTT plugins for them.

I have one for my TV, and it works pretty well.

They can learn literally any IR command.

Not sure about the Mibox remotes. I can't find any indication that people have had success with them at all.

I've seen a lot of people recommending this remote. It'll take up one of your USB ports, but apparently it works very well.

You could also do what I did. I bought the little peel and stick IR blasters if you don't have line of site to all of your IR equipment.

Important: If you do this, you will need to adapt the 2.5mm jack on the back of the Harmony Hub to 3.5mm like most IR blasters use. So buy one (or two) of this 2.5mm to 3.5mm Mono Adapter.

Depends what kind of TV it is. As /u/AaronNMorrisonII said, you can use the Vizio app if it's a smart TV. If not, that makes it a bit harder as the Note8 doesn't have an IR blaster. You could buy something like this which has an IR blaster to talk to the TV and connects to your phone via WiFi. I don't personally have any experience with that kind of device though so I can't vouch for it.

I bought this remote for my PS4 and love it. Ended up replacing my old Bluray player.

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Universal-Media-Remote/dp/B01KICHFQQ That's the one. Also at Best Buy, Walmart, etc.

I think you are looking for something like this

I have the version without IR function. It's pretty average. The touchpad is serviciable at best and the built quality it's not very good, but it does the job for managing Kodi and handling the ocasional Windows pop ups.

Using Ethernet for the monitors was the plan from the very beginning. Before I put the sheetrock on the walls I had placed CAT6 jacks beside the power outlets for each monitor. Here's a before picture.

All of the CAT6 ends for the entire basement end in a small closet I made to hide some plumbing. I put up a little shelf and put all the components in there. Here's another pic.

At the time I wasn't sure if I was just going to plug the monitors in directly to the network for Smart TV access, or if I was going to try and carry video over Ethernet. I ended up going the video route and used these components:

Amazon: Monoprice 105704 4 x 4 True Matrix HDMI Switch/Splitter with Remote Control

Amazon: AGPtek LKV372A 60m/190ft 1080P HD HDMI Network Extender Over Single Cat6/6a/7 Ethernet Cable with IR Remote Control

As you can see in the closet picture, I have 4x of the HDMI network extenders, each labeled 1-4. CAT6 goes in one end and HDMI the other end. All the HDMI cables are 3' I also got from Amazon.

The HDMI cables all go into the 4x4 Switch Splitter. What's cool about that guy is I can have 4 sources, and control what source goes to what monitor. Right now I only have 2 sources, an Amazon Fire Stick and a Raspberry Pi. The switch lets me display the sources on any monitor I want, so I can have 2 watching the game or a movie, and the other 2 with the blind clock, or 3 watching the game and 1 with the blind clock, etc etc.

Behind each monitor there is a matching HDMI extender. They look just like the ones in the closet. So out of the CAT6 jack and into the extender with a 3' CAT6E cable, out of the extender HDMI with a 3' cable and into the monitor. The extender requires power so it uses the 2nd outlet behind the monitor.

That's all there is to it. I'll admit it was a bit finicky at first getting all the extenders to sync and act right. I believe this is because I'm cheap and was trying to get out as cheap as possible. I tried other extenders that were cheaper first and they either didn't work at all, or were awful quality. When I got these they mostly worked right out of the box, but I had to redo some of my punches at the jacks themselves which was weird because my jack tester said they were perfect but the extenders weren't happy with them at all.

I own this remote. It has IR for your regular devices, and bluetooth for the ps3 all in one. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/PS3-Blu-Link-Universal-Remote-Control-Pc/dp/B002LARYGA

You could consider getting an air mouse. I use the Rii MX6 Wireless Airmouse with my Shield TV. It works great in navigating Chrome on the Shield.
https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Multifunctional-Wireless-Microphone-Raspberry/dp/B077XX6488

Oh wow! $489.00

Hoping to control my TV with the Google home. Anyone have experience with this Harmony and what's the difference between this one and the one from Walmart? Is it worth the price?

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if something like this has ever been tested to see if an Ethernet cable can be used to extend the HDMI cable also? Unfortunately putting my computer near the Rift will be impossible.

There serveral products which will "cast" an HDMI output from one place to another. There are both wired and wireless options.

Our household uses an Actiontec My Wireless and it works well for us. It also has an IR blaster built in so you can have a remote that lives in the spare room yet changes channels on the cable box in the other room. There is about a quarter second delay between button presses which is noticeable, but still very usable. While it has a moderate up-front cost. There is zero reoccurring costs, which is nice compared to a cable box. Whether this one will for you depends on several things.

What is the physical distance between the cable box you want duplicated and the spare bedroom?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6LO5SK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There ya go - I'm using this one and it provides a decent grip (why I bought it) as well as good protection for when my cat decides it needs to be on the floor as a toy in the middle of the night.

Just bought 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P322VRP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the 2017 version of the Shield and all the buttons work including the voice on this remote! My wife approves this remote!!

Anyone have any luck getting an IR extender to work with this? I have the Next Generation Remote Control Extender which works great with every remote I have but doesn't work at all with the Xbox One and the media remote

Wireless works as well! Same with bluetooth remotes on video game controllers. You should also be able to use the android tv remote app on your phone once your connected to the internet.

Also here is some great remote options.

Alot of people also like the firestick remote.

I bought this remote so my wife would feel more comfortable when we cut the cord and switched to vue and it’s worked really well. I’d say she had a two day learning curve at most.

Get you one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Universal-Entertainment-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00Y34TAA0/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1479735827&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=logitech+harmony&psc=1&smid=A3S4H3E5TUN1NP

The Logitech Harmony remotes are excellent, support just about everything, and are dead simple to program from your computer.

Send it back. The shields bluetooth sucks and pretty much only works with it's own proprietary devices which use wifi instead.

If you want a decent remote for the shield get a FLIRC and pair it with the cheapest Harmony remote you can find: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Universal-Entertainment-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00Y34TAA0/

Those paired can do just about anything. They're what I finally settle on after going through dozens of others.

Think about an alternative remote too. I've had the Shield for over two years and just got a Rii MX6 remote. For me it's the perfect Shield remote.

Here’s what I use. I’m happy with it. Does everything I need it to.


Rii Fly Mouse 2.4G MX6 Multifunctional Wireless Mini Keyboard and Remote Control for KODI,Raspberry Pi 2,3, Android TV/Box/Mini PC,IPTV,HTPC,Android,Windows,MAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XX6488/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3WWBDbCRT35V9

Chromecast

Harmony Smart Remote (always you to control TV with smartphone),

Smartphone Controlled Lightbulbs

Bluetooth Shower Head

Bluetooth Adapter for Car (requires headphone jack in car)

Rii MX6 probably meets your needs. Good remote with a programmable IR power button. A few niggles for me:

• Voice works reasonably well, but pressing the button won't trigger the assistant. You have to engage it on screen first. (Same problem for all non-official remotes I've ever encountered.)
  
• You have to press any button first to wake the remote, then press the button you want. Sleeps after just a minute or two I think.
  
• Numbers and alt characters on the keyboard are really hard to see when the backlight illuminates. Dark blue on black was an irritating design oversight.
  
• OK button is mapped to 'enter' rather than 'select' I think, so very occasionally that might trip up interaction with a poorly programmed app. For instance, some single button games won't work properly. Minor issue though.
  
  Also worth saying as your device is not officially certified as an Android TV device, there might be some other issues I'm unaware of.
  
  Otherwise it's a good remote and you probably won't find a better one for your specified needs currently.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Rii-Multifunctional-Wireless-Microphone-Raspberry/dp/B077XX6488

Care to upgrade?

SMK-Link PS3 Blu-Link Universal Remote Control

I just got a G20 remote after being done AliTV based remotes. The AliTV ones have poor range and even being 10ft away, wouldn't register button presses. Also the voice search was weird, since the mic button wouldn't trigger the voice input pop-up.

The G20 remote works with voice input with Google Assistant as you'd expect, has volume control, and a sleep function. It also has media track controls. All of it works on my Shield TV. I don't know about battery life, but it takes regular AAA batteries. It's USB Wireless, not Bluetooth which may or may mean better battery life.

It's $16 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP

Edit: There's apparently a G20S remote now for cheaper that has IR learning, but I linked to the one I got.

I can't suggest a case but I would sugest getting something like this.

Check if you have a bluetooth enabled MoBo though, you might have to buy a adapter.

You wish you had a remote for your computer? Why not just get a remote and IR receiver?

$7 USB IR Remote on Amazon

old or new. Funny enough, they're the same price now!

If I buy this, can I turn on my PS4 with the Harmony Hub?

https://www.amazon.ca/PDP-051-038-D1-Universal-Remote-PlayStation/dp/B01KICHFQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501823334&sr=8-1&keywords=051-038-D1

This fucking thing is awesome. My family has owned 2 other Harmony remotes and have had no problems. The 1100 is by far the best one that we have owned.

this :) expensive though.

This one is great! I use it to control my TV, my bluray/receiver, my hdmi switch and my kodi device via bluetooth. B/C it's bluetooth the batteries do drain faster than a regular ir remote but I just bought four double a rechargeables with a charger and haven't looked back since.

This is the one I got. I liked that it came with a simple remote if your tablet crapped out for whatever reason or ran out of charge.

You could use a single PC and an HDMI splitter, while this isn't practical from a wiring perspective... it is possible. You can get a nice GPU and an HDMI Splitter such as the one listed at the bottom of my post. If distance is far... you can get a HDMI over Ethernet converter for further distance.

You have the option of using Digital Signage too.

https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468970990&sr=1-5&keywords=HDMI+over+ethernet

https://www.amazon.com/HD-108-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B00BTC5S6O

$15.99 works like a charm! even does voice.

I have this, it works my ps4, cable box, tv, and using the learning feature, my sound bar. It is an officiallt liscened PS4 product. I highly recommend it

PDP Universal Media Remote... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KICHFQQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Use the Yamaha remote in the living room, buy a harmony RF remote for the bedroom. It will talk through the walls.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Ultimate-Customizable-Cabinet/dp/B00BQ5RY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453326348&sr=8-1&keywords=harmony+rf+remote

I’ve used this device successfully in my homebridge setup to control my RF ceiling fans. There is a homebridge plug-in available for it.

BroadLink New RM Pro ,WiFi Smart Home Hub, IR RF All in One Automation Learning Universal Remote Control Compatible for Apple Android Smartphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIXZDKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pyXPDb8T44VKA

• Receiver recommendation for your budget: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx3000/denon-avr-x3000-7.2-4k-ultra-hd-networking-receiver-w/airplay/1.html If you don't need the all the extra features, the X2000 will have what you're looking for at $150 less: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx2000/denon-avr-x2000-7.1-ch-4k-ultra-hd-networking-receiver-airplay/1.html#!specifications
  
  
• IR repeater, this should work: http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA
  
  
• For wall plates at a fair price, look into monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=109&cp_id=10425
  
  

Maybe something like this.

You could get the rm mini or rm pro, which acts like an IR repeater and works with alexa. It will take the remotes commands and repeat them to your tv. So once it learms power on/off, volume, channels from your remote, you can ask alexa via commands to control these elements. I use it for 2 of my Samsung TVs and I’ve never had an issue with them.

broadlink rm mini 3

broadlink rm pro

Take a look this. It does IR and also RF : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIXZDKO/ref=psdc_10967581_t1_B00U5IXFGI

Also search github. Several people have documented the APIs and have libraries, so you can use it from some other devices like the Rpi, instead of a app on a phone.

Just buy her this, it'll be more familiar: PlayStation 4 Universal Media Remote. If your TV supports HDMI-CEC, enable it, that way she can just hit the PS button on the remote control to turn on the TV and switch to the proper input. Other than that if she can operate a standard DVD player with left, right, up, down and enter she should be able to find the Netflix app in TV and Video.

Get a signal extender like this. Then you just have to make sure the extender is in sight range of your devices - but that can be inside the cabinet.

Before I got the HDMI cable I did manage to program the AUX on my Bravia remote to partially control my Onkyo. But the problem was it wouldn't power it off only on. Its something to do with the universal codes. You could give that a shot, if that doesn't work the remote Nabrok referenced may be a good option for you. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LARYGA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

I'm thinking about getting one myself even though I don't really need it purely for the Blutooth option. Woo no line of sight!

Harmony 350 works fine. It might not have a fancy screen on it or anything but it will control just about anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Universal-Control-Entertainment/dp/B00J7KM5X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448929185&sr=8-1&keywords=harmony+350

Yeah, they're only $269.

We didn't keep our TV remotes since we were using our satellite box remotes to control them. But since we cut the cord and we are just have Fire TV now, we need something to control our TV's volume.

First we tried the Mini Stealth TV Remote but they were junk. We recently found the A-TV10 Large Button Universal Waterproof Remote Control and they are exactly what we were looking for!

Anyone else have any suggestions? I like the idea of one remote, but the ones I found were expensive.

makes sense. As an alternative, this worked well for me back when I had a cable box and it was in my media closet. You replace one of the remote's batteries with the transmitter battery and it just works.

This thing works well enough. I have it and am watching TV on it right now. Not cheap though...

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

Hey, thanks! Do you think this is worth a crap?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M56DI0/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=A3V6BK4D0HKA8F&seller=

These would allow you to send HDMI and IR over a single cat5e/6

don't run them through your switch though, just directly into your patch panel

https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468067958&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat

If you really want to do this, or your local Bar/Pub won't do what you want try this.

https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Television-Remote-color-white/dp/B000P631PU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y1WKK6THA4C9KBQ3SH2K

These work just fine and can do a one to several broadcast.

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410292616&sr=8-1&keywords=MWTV200R

We use them in many of our conference rooms on both projectors and TVs.

I have Raspbmc running using this remote from Amazon.

If you just want to app enable your entire setup: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-915-000216-Harmony-Ultimate-Closed-Cabinet/dp/B00LTKGFEU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1409281526&sr=8-5&keywords=harmony+ultimate

This is the remote I install AND it still allows you to use the app:http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Ultimate-Customizable-Cabinet/dp/B00BQ5RY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409281526&sr=8-1&keywords=harmony+ultimate

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00Z9OW6DQ

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003YKX6S6

This is what I plan to use, after more research I decided to go with UTP cat6 instead of cat7.

edit: the cable needs to bend alot so I went with this first and if this doesnt work then I will try a solid core cable.

Just to clarify, is it this remote?

I own that remote as well as this TV. I had it synced with my previous TV but I’ll see if I run into issues with my TCL.

If you want to go beyond the simplistic on/off/speed that a wall controller offers, you may need to just replicate the RF signals of the remote with something like the BroadLink Remote Control skill and Alexa.

Not a simple solution, but you will be able to replicate all the remote functions. Sadly the RM pro requires an app running as a middle man for Alexa. Not the most direct solution. So - you may want to have an cheap android device all ways on as well. Look into it- see if it is an option.

Not to be a jerk, but it probably took you more time to type this out than it would have taken for a simple google search to find the answer for you

TV IR remote extender ?

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA

here and here or look up "tv control remote repeater".

I don't know if this really works, but its tiny enough to go on a keychain. Stealth Mini TV Remote

Not OP but I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Television-Remote-color-white/dp/B000P631PU

I wonder if you could remove that board in it, and replace with an infrared LED instead. Then, use it as a TV remote.

and/or use in combination with one of these.

or get her one of these http://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Television-Remote-color-white/dp/B000P631PU

> Even if I could the remote we were given was only food enough to switch channels and control volume. I wouldn't be able to switch inputs. Although if I could get access to the HDMI port I would have put some effort I to switching inputs.

I carry a keychain size universal remote in my travel electronic bag for just such situations. https://www.amazon.com/Stealth-Television-Remote-color-white/dp/B000P631PU/

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-USB-Remote-Control-Mouse/dp/tags-on-product/B001M56DI0

If you enable USB wakeup in BIOS, something like this or any other usb device potentially could. You can then follow this guide to configure your device to do the waking up.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Universal-Remote-Screen/dp/B001M5U5AC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1302850585&sr=8-4

I use it maybe once every 2 weeks.

This is what I use at home. Fan-tastic

Relevant

OP, I saw this today and thought of your stint on tv.

You could get a HDMI splitter and connect a wireless display kit with it. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421026414&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+HDMI+kit

HDMI Switch

RF Remote
Option 1
Option 2

https://www.amazon.com/Harmony-Ultimate-Remote-Control-Black/dp/B00BQ5RY1G

My Logitech Harmony has a main unit and a remote with charging stand. Both of these take a USB cable for power. It has a smaller remote powered with ordinary waffer batteries.

harmony hub and simple remote

Not really and it does a shiton more
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y34TAA0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1502135484&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=harmony+universal+remote&dpPl=1&dpID=41vTDvulqkL&ref=plSrch

This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.ca/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B01GIXZDKO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=broadlink+rm&qid=1562448792&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The RM Pro 2 does both IR and RF, RF is 433 and 315.

https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones-IR/dp/B01GIXZDKO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480802327&sr=8-3&keywords=rm+pro+2

I don't know, but maybe you can make it work with this:

https://www.hooksmarthome.com/

or this:

https://smile.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B01GIXZDKO

Do you know what frequency? This might work https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphone/dp/B01GIXZDKO

I’m using this plugin with this device

I bought this $7 case, and now I can tell from the feel which side is up:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6LO5SK/

This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Universal-Media-Remote/dp/B01KICHFQQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483927376&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+remote

We have a USB Bluetooth remote that has a keyboard. I'll work on getting a link

Edit: Here's the link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787Z1C2G?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Mi box is the way to go

WeChip G20 Remote Control 2.4G Wireless Voice Control Sensing Air Remote Mouse for PC Android TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_it1lDbHSZ8Y6B


UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub Ethernet Adapter 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Converter with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2t1lDb7X2PVVZ


Get these 2 items with it

I bought this one and it works.


WeChip G20 Remote Control 2.4G Wireless Voice Control Sensing Air Remote Mouse for PC Android TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ImAvDb75V446D

$15.99 plus 5% off.

WeChip G20 Remote Control 2.4G Wireless Voice Control Sensing Air Remote Mouse for Nvidia Shield Remote Replacement PC Android TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZKR2DbHZ8AD3F

Why? You can use a million different remotes.. eg I got two of these for my Shields: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P322VRP/

I'd prever this, I don't want a Netflix button.