I don't know if I would trust any headlamp with a USB-C port on it into a cave... it seems like asking for trouble with it getting filled with mud and other nasty stuff. A similar light is the Nitecore HC50, which is $15 cheaper and has red lights. I have this light and have taken it in many muddy, wet caves and have banged it up something good and it is still rocking strong. The beam is awesome, and while it's only 565 lm this is honestly still brighter than useful pretty much always. I typically run it at the second or third brightness setting anyways. My only complaint with this light is that it is a bit heavy, which isn't really a problem when strapped to an ecrin roc, but can be annoying when not using it with a helmet around the camp.

My favorite light is my Zebralight, the hype for this thing is well deserved. While it doesn't have a red light, the form factor is awesome. It is super light on the head without the hassle of a battery in the back. I think many people will agree that the Zebralight H600 series is one of the best caving lights you can get. (note there four versions of the H600, two LED colors cool and neutral, and two beam spreads, flood and spot)

Nitecore makes a blatant ripoff of the Zebralight that is $30 cheaper. While I don't have one of these, I did have a chance to play with one after a buddy of mine got one and it seems to be pretty neat. Considering how much I like my Nitecore HC50 I'm willing to bet this would be a solid light to get as well. One thing I like about the Zebralight over the Nitecore is that it works with flat-top 18650 batteries so you can bust open old laptop batteries and use the cells to power the light, whereas the Nitecore requires a button top 18650. Not a huge issue but something to consider.


Edit (some more thoughts):

It sounds like you are new to caving, welcome! I would recommend that you attend a local grotto meeting, which I believe for you would be the Southern California Grotto. You may meet some awesome people and it's a good way to get involved in the sport.

Also, with your flashlight purchase don't forget to get an 18650 battery and a charger for it. You may already have these since you have the Nitecore MH25 but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Be careful with the batteries to get a reputable brand because there are a lot of fakes out there. Panasonic makes good batteries, but unfortunately there are a lot of ones that say Panasonic that are made somewhere else and a lot of ones that say other things that are made by Panasonic. Confusing! I got this one and it works great. You can take a risk with cheaper ones, just know they might not last so long. This charger works good for me. I've had both of my lights last for a 14 hour cave trip so the battery life is pretty good.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Are you a flashlight geek? Are you cheap, want to test the waters, and just happen to have some 18650 batteries around? Are you a tinker-er or would you just like your first set-up to have replaceable batteries so you only have to buy one device?

The cheapest way to get into this is with the $20 (often on sale for $12) [Plastic Bolt]
(http://www.madvapes.com/plastic-bolt-black.html). Be warned, it IS cheap. Expect it to last about a month before the hot melt "potting" breaks loose from the 510 connector and gets wobbly. It will still function. Mine lasted about 3 months before I turned it into a passthrough (uses a PC Power Supply instead of a battery. If you know a bit about electrons, once you pop open the case of this device it should be immediately obvious how you need to wire it to the 5V rail). If you want something more permanent look at this guy $43 or this guy ($38). They're not that much more expensive and are good solid performers. I don't care anything about the safety fuse, but hey, it comes with it, so you might as well.

Now You'll need some batteries and a charger. I highly recommend getting IMR chemistry batteries. ICR chemistry batteries tend to fail spectacularly, while an IMR just vents. These failures are rare, but can be caused by drawing too much amperage off the battery, either intentionally (you made a coil with too little resistance for your battery) or unintentionally (coil shorted, device shorted, etc.) and sustaining that load (leaving the button pushed in your backpack, hard short in the device that you left on the other side of the room). Again, these failures are RARE, and often caused by negligence. But you're a geeky type, so you know better. If all your batteries are ICRs or you don't have any, the best price per performance is this guy ($8) or this guy ($11) These are great batteries and, should you decide you really like this stuff and want to blow fat clouds, they will carry you into sub-ohm rebuildables. Check your battery voltage often (you do have a multimeter, right?). I recharge at around 3.7V, but you can take it down to 3.3 safely, below that voltage drops fast and you'll (permanently) kill the battery below 2.5V or so. Once you get used to it, you'll feel the vapor output and throat hit drop off and know it's time to recharge.

If you don't have a charger already, I have the $30 EFEST LUC (no serious complaints) but this $18 Nitecore i2 comes highly recommended by many users.

Now, we are trying to keep with the cheap thing, and there is no better way to get good flavor, throat hit, and vapor on the cheap than a dripping atomizer. Being able to change flavors rapidly is just a nice bonus (you're new, you'll probably want to try all the things). You want low resistance (1.4-2.0) ohms since you're running off battery voltage. P=V^2 /R power is directly related to vapor/flavor output. A good starting point is 8-10W, so about 1.8ohms or 1.5ohms (respectively). This guy ($6) and this guy($6) are often praised as a being high quality, but still cheap. or you can jump straight into rebuildable drippers like this little guy ($8). It comes prewicked and should last as long as the disposables listed above, but once it dies, you just recoil and rewick instead of throwing it away (I'll leave this as an exercise for the user, but let me just say that you can buy a couple lifetimes worth of resistance wire for $10 and a couple lifetimes worth of cotton wick for $5) Remember when i said those batteries will take you all the way up into sub-ohm rebuildables? So will this atomizer. When you're ready just recoil to a lower resistance. Aint that handy?

If dripping sounds like too much of a hassle then the $10 Iclear 30 sounds right for you. I haven't used it, personally, but people will not shut up about how much they love this thing.

Now the juice is a whole 'nother world and it's really hard to make recomendations. If you can I HIGHLY reccomend going in to a brick and mortar E-Cig store and sampling flavors. Buy from them. Yes it's more expensive, but you probably spent an hour trying stuff out and it'd be pretty shitty to walk out and buy it from the internet. If you don't have a brick and mortar then go to these places and order what sounds tasty in the smallest bottles they have. You'll find that what you think you'd like doesn't always correlate to what you actually like. here's a few that I like:

http://thevaporchef.com/collections/frontpage/products/slartibartfast

http://thevaporchef.com/products/honey-pearry

http://www.mtbakervapor.com/nicotine-juice/thug-juice-e-juice-baker-vapor/

http://www.mountainoakvapors.com/product-p/mo-dt-1019.htm

These set ups should have you outperforming the typical ego and cigalike set ups for not much more money and leave you a lot of head room for future growth. They're also cheap enough that if you decide you hate vaping (inconceivable!) that you're not out much and can probably sell it to someone looking to upgrade. Good luck and happy tinkering.

Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL


Parts:

Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS138DM


Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.

https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/


Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.

Mine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S396YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easier:https://smile.amazon.com/2packs-0-15A-Brushless-Cooling-AB4010M12/dp/B01CZFUOD0


Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/

This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.

K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HX0DLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ls-VzbD60N3WS

I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.

https://smile.amazon.com/BBQ-Butler-Meat-Thermometer-Probe/dp/B01AS23FHE/


Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/pvc-conduit-fittings/carlon-reg-2-type-lb-conduit-body/p-1444444974150-c-6424.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2-plug-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449168970-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2x3-4-spigot-x-female-pipe-thread-reducer-bushing-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449164005-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/metal-conduit-fittings/sigma-3-4-nm-connector-3-bag/p-1444430908358-c-9538.htm  


Wiring: Image from facebook.com/boganbbq

The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.



I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ35VQ/


I had to flip my probe wiring.


You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.


My final wiring (not in the case):





Controller Settings:

The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.

See: http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/IPB-16UserManualA42.pdf


Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.


Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.


IP -> SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.


PID -> CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.


UNITS TO F if think in those terms.


In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.


You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.


I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.

So, people are always talking about finding something to quit smoking, but you are on 0 nic now, and you still want to vape for fun. What do you want then?

The mod: Smoktech Magneto. This is a solid mod with a good price tag. this will net you the opportunity to try out some "sub-ohm rebuildables" and high wattage vaping.

Batteries: Samsung INR18650's. Some good batteries here, not the highest of the high end as far as batteries go, but extremely powerful, decent capacity, and for the newbie, great safety.

To charge your batteries: Nitecore i4. Super safe, solid charger. not much to say here.

For the clouds: Smoktech RSST. A lot of people really don't like dealing with stainless steel mesh, but inside of this tank, I get some of the best flavor I've ever had, better than the glorious cotton microcoils.

As far as juice goes, just buy what you already like in max VG to start. It's really the best vape experience out there. There's no loss in flavor at all, and with rebuildables, it's a match made in heaven.

Higher-End Beginner/Intermediate Setup with Clearomizer or Carto Tank Option


This is a bit of a different recommendation. I've seen some requests lately where someone says, "money is no object." This is for the person with some cash in hand who wants something that's going to last and perform reliably well. I've included recommendations for both a clearomizer and carto tank.

___

ProVari V2.5

18650 AW Batteries for ProVari (get two)

ProVari Extended End Cap to accept 18650 batteries

Provari Wrap (Not necessary, but good to have some protection.)

ProVari Beauty Ring (Not necessary for the recommended tanks, but a nice accessory.)

Kanger Aerotank and
replacement coil heads

AGR Locking Carto Tank

Cartos for AGR (Don't bother with unpunched cartos. Pre-punched are great.)

Luer Lock Syringe for filling AGR Carto Tank

Nitecore i2 Intellicharger

Seduce Juice Sample Pack

The Vapor Chef Butter Beer and Honey Pearry

Drip Tip for cartos

____

Other Great Juice Vendors

Adirondack Vapor - excellent high-grade juice. Placid is a must-try.

DBLiquids - great, affordable juice from a good guy

The Plume Room - excellent flavors that work particularly well in a clearomizer

Alice in Vapeland - subtle, often delicate flavors

Grizzly Vapes - affordable premium juice. Nanner Bear is excellent.

Captivape - solid mid-grade juice from a great vendor

Velvet Cloud Vapor - natural, organic flavorings, 100% VG

First of all, good decision, even alone you'll probably have a great time, meet lots of people and likely become hooked on travel. :-) Here's some things I'd look for in a travel pack:

• A ~40L bag is a good size that will force you to think about every item and not bring the kitchen sink. You'll also appreciate the size/weight when having to walk with it. Later in life when you might want to fly, it will also pass as a carry on bag which simplifies things incredibly and avoids the dreaded lost luggage scenario.
  
  
• Some travel packs are definitely expensive. My advice on this is that most good packs come with excellent, even lifetime, warranties and will last you for many, many years and trips. So if you can, I'd try and save up a little more to avoid getting a cheap one that won't last. We might not be talking about a huge amount of money difference here either. I imagine a night out at the bar or a few packs of cigarretes/tobacco could be the difference between a lousy pack and a good one.
  
  
• Get one with a load bearing hip belt and good shoulder straps. Night and day difference when walking.
  
  
• Get one that can open the main compartment like a suitcase. Way easier to deal with.
  
  
• Get a pack rain cover. Many packs have them built in but don't worry if it doesn't as you can buy them separately and they take up minimal space/weight.
  
  
• I absolutely recommend only buying one that you have tried on stuffed with weight bags. Sizing is very important for the hip belt and shoulder straps to work correctly and you'll be able to see what you are getting.
  
  
• Also purchase a light day pack (15-20L) that can be packed inside your main bag. You'll use this once you are settled in your accommodation and ready to explore.
  
  
• I'm sure there are some great brands in Europe that aren't available in North America, so don't worry if you can't find the ones most people on here (North Americans) recommend.
  
  Some other tips:
  
  
• Get a dry bag to store stuff that cannot get wet.
  
  
• Light packing cubes really do help organize and roll your clothes.
  
  
• Cheap household garbage bag. If you know its gonna be pouring I put my packing cubes inside this even with my rain cover.
  
  
• An ultralight packtowel is a great item to have.
  
  
• For our electronics, things like this and this have been great.
  
  Finally, 10 days travelling in a month means your trip will absolutely fly by. You might end up wishing you'd taken longer, which isn't always possible, and you won't be able to stay long in places you love. Mentally prepare yourself for this.
  
  Have a great trip!

The mods with the bottoms that push up are referred to as tube mods. Those mods are mechanical mods, which are extremely dangerous for beginners. At the very least, if you don't know what you are doing then you can ruin the mod. If you're really unlucky, a mech mod could literally blow up in your face. When you move up to a mech mod, you really need to know what you are doing. I know that's not the answer that you want, but if you're interested in learning more about starting out with mech mods I would visit /r/electronic_cigarette.

If you have vaped before, and seemingly on something with some power, then I would recommend a regulated box mod with decent power. The sigelei 150w and 150w TC boxes are very nice, and the latter will allow for some play later on with the temp control option.

Some tanks that are really nice at the moment are the Sense Herakles, SMOK TFv4, and the Uwell Crown. I also enjoy the Kanger Subtanks.

You would also need batteries. If you go with an 18650 box, I would suggest the green Samsung 25r's. They are available on amazon. At the moment they are the best around to my knowledge.

A charger to charge those batteries. Nitecore D2 or Nitecore D4 would be your best bets. If you plan to really start vaping, I would go with the D4 so that you can charge up to 4 batteries at once.

Then you would need juice. If you have tasted one that you really liked with a friend, then I would ask that friend what flavor they are vaping. For a really great online option (I swear to god all of his flavors are amazing), Giant Vapor can't be beat. There is also B-X Vapor, VapeWild, and MechSauce. Be aware that whatever juice you might get (unless it says otherwise or was purchased from a local shop) will probably need to steep for 1-2 weeks.

I've traveled to quite a few places with my kit lens. It's pretty damn good.

You still have time to fill out the rest of your stuff, if needed:

Filters:

Singh-Ray Filters makes a "ColorCombo LB" filter. Works like wearing a pair of polarized GOOD quality sunglasses outdoors. I never took it off. Excellent quality and helped when the sky was overexposed and when I generally wanted to get a more intense color.

Lens:

Your kit lens will be more than fine for anything during the day. But at night is different. The kit is meh at night. You definitely want something to capture night time. Maybe some star time lapses? Those are always cool.

Leica 15mm F1.7 My wallet hurt when I bought this, but to be honest, it's on my camera more than it's not. It makes the night look amazing. The quality is awesome too.

Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This is our "go-to" as a second lens (for day and/or night), but to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Too much for me, but it's still worth mentioning.

Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away).

Microphones:

If you want a better microphone get the Videomic Pro+. The difference between this and the others are that the mic turns on/off automatically when the camera turns on/off and it has a USB rechargeable battery.

Batteries:

Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are three types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM (which are decoded).

Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.

SD Cards:

I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.

You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.

External Drive:

You WILL run out of space on your laptop. You can either purchase 3-4 SD cards, or you can get an external HDD. Each has it's pros and cons.

Battery Pack / cables:

Whether it's your phone / headphones / batteries / tablet / whatever, I suggest the Anker PowerCore. These things are beasts. One of these made sure I was able to fly from here to Australia without worrying about battery levels.

You'll also want to carry extra wires. Whether MicroUSB, USB-C, or Lightening, I would never use anything else but Anker PowerLine


International Charger:
I used the BESTEK Travel Adapter and loved it. Plenty of ports to charge stuff on. It has a small fan (to keep it cool) that some people say bothers them, but I'm the lightest sleeper and it didn't bother me. Barely heard it.

Most important things would probably be

1.) Hold it upside down when you clean the main chamber by swabbing with a q-tip dipped in ISO.

2.) Use a high % ISO. 91% or higher is best. 71% isn't terrible, but avoid anything lower. (I saw at Walmart they had 50%, like what the actual fuck, who wants to pay for 50% water?)

3.) Let the thing COMPLETELY DRY after cleaning. Take it apart and let it air dry for like at least 30 minutes.

4.) I highly recommend getting an external Nitecore charger and some extra batteries, but if you do use the cable I wouldn't recommend leaving it unattended. It even says in the manual to not let it charge unattended and plug it into a surge protector. You want to be there to unplug it in case something fucks up.

With the external chargers you won't have to worry about that. Leaving batteries unattended on a Nitecore charger is safe because they are loaded with safety features and come from a very reputable company. Also, you can charge up to 4 batteries at a time and still use a different battery in your Hopper.

2 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

4 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-battery-Charger/dp/B00KBFZDI8

2 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

4 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Integrated-Displays-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00L1XYX4Y


5.) Don't soak the Silicone condom in ISO unless you are OK with it turning a yellow/brown color. Just swab it with a Q-tip dipped in ISO.

6.) If something isn't working right like the straight to blue issue or it isn't heating up quite as much as it used too, then look at the battery contact on your back-end. If there is black gunk on the contact, carefully swab it with a Q-tip dipped in 91% ISO. Also, make sure the threads on the back are clean. Let it dry completely before using.

7.) Never ever ever ever let air be pushed into it. Like don't blow into it.



Also, Idk if you have heard of delta3dstudios and their awesome attachments yet, but their funnel that is designed for the Grasshopper is simply amazing. Makes loading a cinch and fits the GH perfectly and it is only $7(it was $8 when I got it). They also make other accessories for the GH as well as for other vapes.

For vendors, I'd recommend VapeWild. Been using them for over a year now and have nothing but awesome things to say about them: https://www.vapewild.com (they'll also send you a free sample pack of their juices if you use WELCOME10 on your first purchase)

Small and packs a punch, eh? I can't really recommend from experience (I have an ijoy Captain - while it's an awesome mod, it's pretty big), but the Aspire Speeder and Geekvape Aegis are very good

Speeder: www.vapewild.com/aspire-speeder-200w-mod/

Aegis: www.vapewild.com/geekvape-aegis-mod/

There's also the Voopoo Drag, which is a damn awesome mod, but the company is under fire for some shady business practices (nothing to do with the mod, just some folks have been protesting the company): www.vapewild.com/voopoo-drag-157w-tc-box-mod/

Now tanks, I can recommend. With it being your first setup, I'd tell you to get a Crown III by Uwell. I've had one, my friends have had one, pretty much everyone I know has had a Uwell in their lineup at some point. I don't use it anymore after switching to RDAs, but for a first tank it's damn near perfect (get some extra. 25ohm coils if you do pick it up)

www.vapewild.com/uwell-crown-3-tank/

www.vapewild.com/crown-3-coils-by-uwell/

Another tank I'd recommend is the Fireluke by Freemax. The tank is huge and the first coil I had in it lasted me a month while chain vaping ~70W.

https://www.vapewild.com/fireluke-tank-by-freemax-vape/

Also, don't forget batteries and chargers! You can find them here on the site: https://www.vapewild.com/batteries-chargers/

However, I'd personally recommend the Nitecore charger, which you can find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBFZDI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQl1AbPRQHPSC

Well, I hope I covered everything - cheers!

Unfortunately there is no singular "best device", there are many different devices out there to choose from depending on what you're looking for... And what you're looking for may very well change with time as well.

Most of the higher end mods (the battery part of the kit) use 18650 rechargeable batteries, which does add a bit to your startup costs for charger, batteries, and generally a more expensive mod.

Personally I prefer smaller single-battery mods like the Sigelei Spark, and for the price it's a pretty sweet deal. Some people prefer larger devices that use two batteries together for higher performance, but that just isn't me.

The tank could also be a tough choice. I've been using a Kanger Subtank Mini for the past year or so, and it does great for me. It comes with a rnebuildable atomizer (RBA) so I can make my own coils, but you can also buy replaceable coils if you prefer. There are more tasks out there than you can shake a stick at, and one person's love will be another's hate... But I think the subtank isn't a bad place to start, they're reliable, adjustable, easy to maintain, and easy to find.

Of course there are decent kits that include a tank and rechargeable unit without a replaceable battery if you're not looking to get that fancy. Something like the Kanger Subvod Mega or Joyetech eGo One might fit the bill.

I linked several different shops on purpose, I've had good experiences with all of them, but of course there are many more out there too. If you have a good brick and mortar vape shop in your area it's worth a visit to see what they have and might recommend.

A legitimate 3500+mAh battery will probably not be worth the extra price unless you absolutely need longer runtimes on a single cell. In most cases, the listed capacity is a total fabrication, luckily some nice folks do various tests to see the actual capacities of various cells. Here is one from 2012 and one done in 2011 is here.

I'm not familiar with the prices of all of those cells, there are a lot to choose from but I do know that the tenergy cells have decent capacity and are a pretty good value, here on amazon.

A charger that is a great value is the Nitecore i4, found for a very good price on amazon. It can only charge with a maximum of 750mA charge current which is a little lower than what is best, but it will do just fine. For maximum speed charging of 2 cells be sure to use different channels, #1 and #3 are paired as well as #2 and #4. So use combinations like #1 and #4, #1 and #2, #2 and #4, etc.

If you like the Ego-Twist, then you're in for a treat. An Ego-Twist is pretty much near the bottom of the barrel when it comes to a satisfying experience.

Here I'm going to save you some time. This is what I would recommend as an upgrade. If you have money to spend, go straight for the Provari. It will soon become the go-to tool in your arsenal. Otherwise get yourself a good DNA-30 based box mod like a Hana Modz Clone or a Cloupor. Then get yourself a good rebuildable atomizer like the Kayfun or Taifun. The flavor and vapor production their style of atomizer produces is highly satisfying. They work via negative pressure so once you fill it you can pretty much forget it in your pocket and rest assured that its wont leak on you. Also I would recommend you get yourself a Genesis style Atomizer like the Kraken for while you're in the house, has a tank you can fill plus it has an exposed side on top where you can drip flavors on in case you want a taste of something new without cleaning out the tank. The pull on those is very loose and airy, so you can fill your lungs in as fast as you want, the faster the pull the colder the air. Different than the Kayfuns/Taifuns of the world which have a limit to how fast you can pull. Genesis style atomizers tend to be leaky so I wouldn't recommend it as "take to work" type atomizer.

You will also need some batteries, get yourself a pair of Sony VTC5 or Samsung 25R and a good charger. These allow for high discharge rates. Here is some info on that.

You will also need some Kanthal wire, 26 guage is good. And some cotton as you will need this to build the coils on the rebuildable atomizer. Youtube is your friend when it comes to how to build the coils.

>So far i am very dissatisfied with the iclear 30 tanks that come with it, they leak, gurgle, don't produce very much vapor, and also have an insanely tight draw. Compared to my previous $20 dollar vape pen, this is absolute hell. Could someone recommend me a good tank that supports replaceable atomizers?

yeah the iclear 30 isn't great. look in to: aspire nautilus, kanger protank 2 or 3/mini protank 2 or 3, kanger aero tank, etc

>Also i was wondering how to take good care of the battery, i hear a lot about them exploding, don't want any of that to happen. I got myself an ultrafire charger so that i don't overcharge the battery. What else should i do to keep it safe? besides switching to a better one as my current one is a cheap $7 one.

not a ton to worry about here since you're using a regulated device. your svd will not fire any shorted coils. it will not fire coils that are below or above the regulated limit, and it will not discharge your battery below like 3.2 volts. all of that means you could use inexpensive, low drain batteries to maximize your battery life. personally, when the svd and its ilk were my daily drivers i used the samsung 26f ICR cells. they're 2600 mah and like $4 a piece. super cheap, long life.

also, that trustfire charger is garbage. upgrade to something better soon. personally, i use the nitecore intellicharger, but there are a lot of decent and relatively inexpensive chargers out there. the intellicharger i2 is ~$12 on amazon or ~$13 at illumination supply (great source for batteries too, use coupon code ISPOWER for, iirc, 10% off).

>And for the last question, what is the resistance of an atomizer, and what does it mean? is higher or lower better? all that kinda stuff please.

basically lower resistance means coils get hotter faster. this is fine if you have adequate airflow and good wicking. but can be a problem if those things are lacking. personally, i liked 1.8-2.2 ohms when i ran the SVD. but that's personal preference. you should play around with different resistances and settings on your SVD to see what you like. i suggest starting at like 5w and then slowly going up until you find your sweet spot of flavor/vapor.

here's a reddit thread that might help you.

hope this helps.

The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit

Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.

Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.


Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.

IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit

A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.

That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.

Rebuilding Materials

An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.

28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.

Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils

This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)

Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.

Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.

If you are looking for a cheap mech/RDA setup, hit up www.fasttech.com. They are great clones for amazing prices. Here is a great little build for under $30. You are going to need a battery and a charger. Both can be picked up on amazon for about $10 a piece.

(DO NOT SKIMP ON BATTERIES FOR A MECH MOD)

4nine Mech mod ($18)

Mutation X V2 RDA ($8)

2 Efest High Drain 18650 Batteries
($17)

Nitecore Charger
($11)

I have the exact setup ^ and it hits like a beast. The mutation X is amazing. The adjustable airflow is awesome, and the flavor/vapor density is super great. If you have any more questions, hit me up.

EDIT: Lol downvotes? I am just trying to help someone out.

well my Arizer extreme Q is pretty stinky.

I don't know about other log Vapes, but like I said they kind of exceed that price

personally I like the xmax pro V2 (it's not in the video, but it's exactly like a boundless CF with an external battery), and get a smoke buddy to exhale through. you could do that while you're living there, and then when you move out get a bong; get the WPA and use it with bong it's way better

you want a smell proof case (edit as a note the case I have is just a pencil case not smell proof; it's the perfect size if I want to go somewhere cuz it'll hold the vape and two extra batteries and a doob tube. so normally I'll pack the vape, and that's enough for like four bowls) (I like the stuff here, extra batteries if you don't have them, and an external charger eventually.

3/4" pipe screens are must have for this vape as well. makes it so the weed doesn't drop out and there's less mess

edit also note, this is a session vape. so it may take much longer compared to an on-demand vape it really depends on what your use would be. I personally like getting high over like 45 minutes instead of like 10 minutes

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

You would need a converter that converts the 220v to 120v, something like this

Great, Ill send you a pm :) <br /> <br /> Yeah we have a decent variety over here. Your GF would probably still be excited about flavoured papers as they are really uncommon over here and she might not even smoked one yet. Maybe even some special pipe from the US as in the end its a present from her BF and shell be happy about it.

You could also consider bringing some munchies/food for her. We dontt have a lot of the US brands over here but dont worry too much I am sure shell be happy to see you as you are quite far away from each other, distance wise.

Haha go to the 90s it was even more relaxed back then.. lol

A few of my own:

• Expanding on /u/mc2222's field battery idea:
  
  A great many things...including things you might not otherwise think of...can be powered by a 12V DC power source, such as a car battery.
  
  Swing by Wal-Mart, and check out the Deep Cycle "marine" batteries. They're pretty low quality for marine needs, but they're perfect for ours. Even a mere 50AH of capacity will be PLENTY for what we do. You can pick one up for $40-$80 depending on size/capacity.
  
  Next, look for or build some sort of distribution panel/box/etc. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. All you're after is some central point so you can plug in all this stuff you never knew could be powered off 12V. Personally, I use this guy but there's lots of other methods of doing this.
  
  Now...there's all the obvious things you can power with it. Most motorized mounts, for example, plug right into the car lighter outlet. You can, of course, clip that connector and put some other connector (like the banana plugs my unit takes) on if you wish. But for these items, no further mods are necessary. Dew heaters and camera coolers are other common 12V devices.
  
  Now here's where we get cute...Got a DSLR? It probably has an AC Power Adapter available for it, right? Take a close look at the specs for it...you'll see that while its INPUT is 120VAC (plugs into a wall) it's OUTPUT is plain ole DC...PROBABLY 7.2V or so (a 2 cell LiPo, for the record). Grab yourself a little adjustable step down gadget, cut the cable on the CAMERA side of the converter that's inline, and just use the handy battery adapter piece. Solder it up to the output side of your step down supply, solder up some wires on the input side, set it to 7.2 (or whatever) output, and poof...12V power for your camera. :)
  
  You'll find there's a zillion devices that "plug into the wall", but if you check their OUTPUT, it's 12V DC (or less)...and thus, you can use this method to power them in the field off your field battery. :)
  
  
• Hand Warmers : Not only good for keeping hands toasty on cold imaging nights, but useful for keeping your guide scope or camera lens warmer to help ward off dew/frost.
  
  
• HobbyPartz (among many others, but these guys are amongst the cheapest I've found) has these slick Red LED strips that can be powered by as little as 3V, or up to 12V. They use insanely low amounts of power, so even a small battery pack will power them all night.
  
  What good are they? Well...they're adhesive on the back, AND you can cut them to your desired length, and solder new lead wires onto each strip. Viola...you've got night-vision safe lighting for your laptop, your telescope, your field table..whatever! They serve both to illuminate your work area, AND mark your equipment for others' safety.
  
  

Just note that you'd still need to have the trident in that case, which means connecting a wallwart and the USB-A. The VL adapter makes the entire setup super clean and simple. The price comparison isn't a no-brainer IMO, a TBT3-->DP adapter is anywhere from ~$15-20 on Amazon, first party VL @$40. The first party would be nicer to use, and futureproof.

I think it'd be a no-brainer to buy the VL adapter if you EVER decided to move the full setup around, but I assume most users will rarely (if ever) do that. An example would be if you wanted to bring VR around for parties, work events, etc. The VL adapter is a super no brainer in that case because you'd need an additional AC outlet, and three will already be taken up (minimum) for the 2 basestations and the laptop itself.

Thinking about this even more, you could theoretically battery power the basestations with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=12V+battery+pack&qid=1557686834&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Then you'd only need one AC outlet for the entire setup with the VL adapter.

Yeah, all said and done, I'd think that the real beauty of the VL adapter wouldn't be fully appreciated except by like 1-2% of users. Having a really simple to deploy really high end setup would be super cool, but then inside-out starts making a lot more sense in that case...

if those are the only connections, you don't appear to have any MIDI output. that might be an issue, but i'm not familiar with the software you want to use.

if you'd care to post the make and model of your keyboard, i can try to look up the manual to figure out exactly what power supply you need. if you don't want to do that, then here's what you could try instead:

from the picture, you definitely need a DC power supply with a center positive barrel connector. does it say "DC 9.5V" on there? if so, i (personally) would try a 9V power supply with it. that's 99% sure to be safe, and 98% likely to work.

find something like https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Regulated-Switching-Replacement-Electronics/dp/B015PXUHYA/ for your country, and set it to 9V, make sure to read any instructions so that it is definitely center positive when you plug it in, and then give it a go. if it doesn't seem to work within the first 30-60 seconds, don't leave it plugged in.

Get the mech you like the look of. You'll hear things like this one is better than that one because it has better plated contacts but unless you have a bunch of different mechs to compare it to than it really isn't going to make that much of a difference.

illuminationsupply has good batteries. I would recommend the sonys vtc5s

fasttech has very inexpensive mech clones

amazon has the best most inexpensive charger for only 15 dollars and free shipping with prime.

lightiningvape has some of the best prices on rebuildable supplies.

And that's pretty much all you need.

Definitely stick with PC fans. I'd go with 120mm because the larger fan moves more air while moving slower, so it can stay quieter but still cool your box.

I bought this pack of 4 on amazon, they're almost silent, but you will need 2 or more to cool the cfls. I use 2 of these in my veg cabinet, with some duct on the back of them to lightproof it, to cool 3-4 cfls at the moment, but I don't have to worry about smell from the veg cabinet.

You need to figure out what you are going to do if smell will be a problem. If you need zero smell, then you need to think about a DIY carbon filter and how you will move air through it (more powerful fans would be needed).

For a no-wiring-splicing-needed solution, you can get molex (one type of connector pc fans use) power adapters like this one, and use splitters and adapters, etc to power however many fans you need, or even buy a pc fan speed controller like this one and plug it right in.

note: pc fans have two different kinds of connectors typically, larger molex 4 pins (like I mentioned earlier) and some have smaller 3 pin connector. The ac adapter I linked has a 4 pin molex, and so does that fan controller for power in, but it has the 3 pin for power out to each fan that it controls, and the fans I linked also have small 3 pin connectors. Just something to keep an eye out for if you decide to get more powerful fans than I linked, for example.

To wire mine up, I grabbed a 12v AC-DC adapter (a wall-wart, like a plug for an old router, it says the voltage on the label) and cut the plug on the end off, and cut the connectors on the fans off, then it's one wire to red, one wire to black, if it doesn't work switch them. Some adapters have a white stripe on one of the two wires, that one goes to red. (although I think for most fans it would spin them backwards, arrows on the edges of the fan usually point direction of airflow). Heatshrink it all together (or just electrical tape it really securely) and plug it in.

Not bad at all but you will eventually get another set of batteries so you might as well invest into a 4-bay charger for like an extra $5. Those batteries are good but you can save on that as well. Lastly, your mod is great but I stand by the RX200 with the quality and battery life.

RX200: http://www.eciggity.com/reuleaux-rx200-by-jaybo-design-wismec/

Batteries: http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Saved you a few bucks and still getting top of the line stuff. Difference in those three items save you $10, not much but adequate.

I use a 2kw Honda generator for emergency charging through a 20amp marine battery charger and for running the large power tools. I built a DC generator for every day charging using a Harbor Freight gas engine and a 40 amp car alternator. I have two Walmart deep cycle marine batteries which are adequate but not very long life, eventually I'll replace them with four Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. It's critically important not to discharge them more than 50% nor to let them sit partially charged any longer than absolutely necessary. To keep up on charge state I very highly recommend a charge monitor like this.

I have not built my solar system yet but will be using two to three 250 watt panels with a midnight solar MPP charge controller. I use very little AC power so a small Xantrex 600 watt sine wave inverter is sufficient.

I am wiring my cabin with two AC circuits and a few DC outlets, all lighting will be DC LEDs (as in these with small dc/dc power converter boards, I put eight of these in my boat and have two in the camper for the time being, lots of light and only 90ma ea). I haven't decided how much AC I'll be using but I've used DC exclusively for the last year in my 22' camper as I get my site ready to build. I am using an RV fridge that runs on propane and a Mr Heater 18kbtu propane heater, I pay about $25 a month for propane and that will balance out in summer when the fridge takes more to cool and the heater isn't used.

I do not see the need for large inverters unless you come across one used that also contains a large marine (3-stage) battery charger - if I had one I wouldn't use the DC generator as much. I don't run microwaves or electric appliances, just a small tv and small loads that are quick to charge like a Nintendo DS, iPhone, mp3 player and tiny speaker system.

Passive cooling with shade trees and wood fired heating are best if you're off grid. Controlling demand is easy once you get used to it, you do not need a big inverter and in fact they waste a lot of power when they're searching for a load so you're better off with small ones.

Oh and wire to hook it all up is expensive, I use this which is a fraction of the cost of marine stores, it's welding cable so it's practically burn proof and it's extremely flexible. You just need a big hot torch to solder lugs on it because the bare copper conducts the heat away quicker than tinned wire does.

Good luck.

Edit - these Astroenergy panels are what I'm considering, this vendor seems to have good prices at least on panels.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter. BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.

Thanks

Even though the picture of my box really doesn't have anything to do with this but I'm proud of my mod, nothing special but you know how it is.

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

To power the setup you will want an AC to DC converter of some sort. You could use a spare computer power supply but something more compact will work just as well. You will want a fan controller to handle the fan and pump speed, running them direct on 12V will keep them full speed and loud.

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Sentry-Controller-SEN-MIX2-M1/dp/B00DN3IT7M

To keep things compact you may want to buy or fabricate a box to hold the radiators. Hang them on the sides with the fans drawing air through the top and blowing through the rads. The pump and reservoir could either go inside or attach to one of the two unused sides.

http://www.mountainmods.com/tower-pedestal-p-565.html - Pre-made and awesome but fairly expensive.

Make sure you get quick disconnect fittings and place them on the lines just outside your case for easy separation.

Get proper fans for your radiators. EK Vardar F4-120ER are about the best that money can buy.

Don't be sloppy with the wiring. Use pre-made connections, or use solder and heat shrink tubing.

There are many different replacement battery packs sold online, but I'm somewhat wary of any of them. Any which has 4 cells isn't going to be trustworthy unless it has a charging circuit built in to the battery pack, because you need to monitor the voltage of each battery cell individually and essentially charge each battery separately to be safe. Few if any budget battery packs will do that.

I would go the route of finding a decent case and then using your own 18650 batteries. That gives you control over what batteries you use, and lets you replace them on the go or over time as the eventually wear out.

For a case, something like the Fenix BA4C or this random case from Amazon should work. Then add 2x or 4x protected 18650 batteries.

For the batteries, I'd go with KeepPower 3400 mAh or the 2600 mAh ones if you don't need as much runtime. They use genuine Panasonic cells with a protection circuit, and are highly favored by /r/flashlight. Other trustworthy brands include Olight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Make sure you're buying from a legitimate distributor though; there are lots of fakes on eBay and Amazon.

A good charger would be the Nitecore i2 or i4.

The batteries I bought a couple months ago are the "Powerex 2700" ones. I haven't tried any batteries other than those or the stock batteries, but the Powerex were highly recommended when I was looking for batteries myself, and I have no complaints. Type "Powerex 2700" into Google search, and "Powerex 2700 mflb" is one of the autocomplete suggestions, haha. xD

The 2700 refers to milliamps, which is basically how much power they put out at any given time. I think 2700 is more power than the stock batteries ever put out (even before they started to degrade over 6 months). With 2700mA, you have to take faster draws or you'll scorch the herb. I always found the stock draws exceedingly slow, so I like not having to wait as long.

So those batteries are a good investment, and they're only $13 on Amazon for four batteries.

Now about chargers. If you try to charge a battery too quickly, it can seriously damage the battery. The stock charger is what's called a "trickle charger". Trickle chargers "trickle" only a small amount of charge into a battery, which means that they are safe to use on long-lasting, slow-charging batteries as well as short-lasting, fast-charging batteries.

The biggest issue with the stock charger is that it doesn't have overcharge detection. It's generally pretty safe to trickle-charge even a fully charged battery. What's NOT good is to leave a battery on trickle charge for days after it reached full capacity.

The charger that I got is this LaCrosse charger. It has three different charge rates, all of which are compatible with the Powerex batteries. I'm not sure if charging them quickly all the time is a good thing even if the batteries support it, but the option's there if I need it.

My favorite feature about the LaCrosse charger is "discharge" mode. What it does is completely empty the battery first, THEN recharge it. This is very, VERY good for your batteries. Unless you fully empty a NiMH (the type of battery the mflb uses) before recharging it again, it will have a "ghost" effect, which is basically tricking the battery into thinking that it's dead even when it shouldn't be yet.

The last cool feature of the LaCrosse charger is "discharge/refresh", which discharges and recharges the batteries 20 times. The charger's manual recommended refreshing new batteries at least once, which increases the performance or some such. You don't want to cycle a battery too much, though, since I know they're only supposed to handle a limited number of cycles. Cycling the battery is a good way to erase a ghosting problem, though.

So I recommend getting the Powerex 2700 at the very least. You can charge those in the stock charger, and simply buy new ones (they're only $12, after all) whenever they start to suck. But I really like my charger, too.

(Modified copypasta from a message I sent another redditor a while back. I hope this helps!)

Hey there, I'd definitely recommend Eneloops as well, I've been using them for about 4-5 years now.

I personally use the Panasonic Eneloop Pro's. The higher capacity is nice, you get a bit more mileage which for only a bit more money. The other brand I had in the past, but lost them around the house were Sanyo Eneloop XX. Overall the Panosonics are better as far as price and have bit more juice in them as well.

Pair an 8-pack of batteries with a good charger.

My charger is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RSOV50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might be a bit of overkill, but I like all the smart charge features and options: autoshutoff/discharge/automated discharge then recharge/, it allows though you could easily find something cheaper; just make sure it's compatible with this type of battery.

Just make sure if you're shopping for bargin's on the batteries and you'll find them I'm sure, is that you're buying legit Eneloops. Believe it or not there are plenty of knock-offs or just busted brands that try to cash in.

Before moving here I bought a "northern european" adaptor and found that the pins were slightly too wide for the sockets. I could shove them in, but it wasn't a good fit. However, I purchased some specifically for Switzerland and they fit perfectly.

These are the ones I bought and like the best: (all Amazon links) 3 prong adaptors and a multi-plug adaptor. They've both worked well.

And for those who need a step down transformer, I found that this one also works great.

> Couldn't I just get four 18650's, and then possibly a charger that can charge all four at once? without worrying about attending them?

Yes, I'd recommend this one.

The Vamo is a good choice because if you do ever break it, the replacements are wicked cheap.. but you'll have to wait for a replacement.

A tube mod with a Kick is more durable than just about any VV device. Even something as small as a Smoktech Bolt would work. With a Kick, it takes 18350's. With one extension sleeve, an 18490/18500 and a Kick, and with two extension sleeves, an 18650 and a Kick. You'll need something like a Smoktech Bolt or Altsmoke Silver Bullet with extension sleeves to use 18650's with your Kick. Mechanical mods are generally limited to "18650 size" which means you can only use 18490/18500's with the Kick.

I personally use the Bombshell Stinger from HotVapes which uses 26650 batteries with a Kick. With three batteries, I can go just about a full week. It might be out of your price range once you add in batteries, a charger, and a Kick, but it's pretty bulletproof and sounds like it's exactly what you're looking for.

Your idea on how to install the Kick is pretty spot on. Check this video out if you have any other questions.

Generally speaking, yes. If you buy a tube mod and a Kick, the only thing that would ever "break" is the Kick, which would still let you vape by just taking the Kick out. It'll usually be a sub-par vape since you're going off of the battery alone, but it'll work.

Also, just FYI, the Kick requires IMR batteries. Make sure you get good ones. AW, Efest, Panasonic or Samsung.

Ok. Well, thanks to all you guys I spent WAY more than I had planned 🤣😂

I woke up to my wife asking “did you buy things last night?”
Me: “Yes”
Her: “did you make 3 purchases?” (She got PayPal notifications on her phone)
Me: “Yes” (as I sneak out the room)

Here’s what I ended up getting:

• TN40S
  
• M43 (I got the 219 is that the best one?)
  
• Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• 4 x 3400 mah batteries Are these right for the Thrunite?
  
  
• Unprotected Samsung 30Q 3000mAh batteries (the ones that were an add on for the Meteor)
  
  
• A Nitecore i4 charger
  
  If you have a chance please review my purchases... if I made any mistakes with batteries please let me know! Thank you all so much, it’s great to experience a level of peer pressure with a group of friends I just subscribed to 24 hours ago ;).

Did some research, here's I think my bargain basement lighting kit, and good reviews too.

• $50 Neewer flash with wireless trigger. a nice manual flash that comes with a wireless trigger. You put one trigger on the flash, and the other in your camera's flash shoe, and bam, radio triggered flash.
  
• Neewer stand/shoe/umbrella kit for $33. It comes with three umbrellas.
  
• Rechargeable batteries for your flash. I've had good luck with my Energizers, and they are cheap at $13 for a charger + 4 AA's. I'd buy two of them because the cheapest price on a 4 pack is $11, so why not spend the extra $2 for the charger to have a backup charger.
  
  There, you're good to go for wireless flash for ~$100, manual flash power, works with any camera that has a flash shoe.
  
  If you can only spend $50, then just get the flash separately for $30 and the batteries. Then you can get the radio triggers, light stand, and umbrellas later when you have the money to spare.
  
  Also, eventually, you may want to get a larger umbrella - I use an Impact 60" convertible umbrella. Big, beautiful, soft light. I have two of these; they have 4.5 stars on amazon, great umbrella. They are a little unwieldy though; 60" is a big umbrella to deal with.

I love the MVP. I love being able to chain vape on it all day long for at least 2 days before having to charge it. It is decently priced too. You can get it at vapingme.com for around 35 dollars.

The VTR has a ring on it that you can cut off with a dremel. I have seen pics of it on ecr before and it looks really nice. It is more expensive though. Around 70 on vapingme. Maybe more. You can get it at other sites for 70 I think? I have not really priced it. Both the MVP and VTR can take a pounding. I have seen them both after falling from a great height and from being run over and they work like a dream after. The VTR takes batteries but I am unsure exactly what kinds. This site lets you know what batteries to get, don't pay attention to the price because you can get it cheaper at other places. http://www.myvaporstore.com/Innokin_iTaste_VTR_p/ink-vtr.htm The batteries you have to get a charger for as well. The http://smile.amazon.com/i4-2014-Intellicharge-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00KBFZDI8/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407165719&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i4. It will do you right. YOu can get your batteries from here: http://www.illumn.com/18650-efest-imr18650-v1-2100mah-high-discharge-button-top.html A tank that will fit well on the VTR is the Nautilus Mini or Aerotank Mini. Here is a site for the Aspire Mini.http://101vape.com/clearomizers-glassomizers/360-genuine-aspire-nautilus-mini.html

IF you purchase anything from Vapingme.com use the code "reddit" to get 12% off and orders over 30$ or more get free shipping.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask!

Many, probably the majority, of battery portions or "mods" use removable 18650 batteries. The advantage of this is easily swappable batteries, so if one runs out of juice you can just pop in another. Also, batteries by nature degrade over time, so mods with built in batteries will eventually perform poorly if not die outright.

I'd recommend an iStick Pico kit, and juice from Blue Dot Vapors. I haven't bought juice in a while since I make my own but they're my favorite juice vendor for the cheap price range, and pretty much anything from them should be delicious. Some might need to "steep" though - basically let it sit for a few days to cure. They do have presteeped juice though.

Make sure to be educated about battery safety. NEVER, EVER NEVER NEVER EVER NEVER carry a loose 18650 in a pocket or bag because something like keys or coins could short the battery, causing it to essentially explode violently. 18650 cases are cheap and convenient.

It's generally recommended to always charge 18650's via an external charger, like this or this. The Pico does have a USB charging port, and for everyday use it's probably fine, but it might possibly, maybe, not be 100% safe to leave it plugged in for long periods of time. See this thread and this thread. It's probably fine though.

Or just get him a Juul. I've never tried one, want to though, but from what I hear it's about the closest experience to actually smoking, and it's simpler too. The only downside is buying the pods. I think there are ways to refill them with juice though.

Also, just search around.

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=quit+smoking&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all

https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/search?q=best+starter+kit&sort=relevance&restrict_sr=on&t=year

Yeah batteries like this.

And if you have an external charger you'll never worry about power again.

I have a Pax 2, and while the battery life is good and I know the Pax 3 is a decent unit, the removable battery of the Davinci won it for me.

Sorry to hear about your performance though. I still love my FF, it works great except for the overheating. But my tolerance is increasing and I'd like a cake that can handle more flower at a time.

Edit: Typo

It's a good charger, but it doesn't display the voltage like this one does.

As a someone who is new to handling lithium ion batteries, it would be a good thing for you to know what the voltage is so you didn't wear your cell down to nothing. You will eventually keep track of it in your mind, and pretty much know when it needs charging by how much you use your light.

I'm just saying, buy a couple quality cells and at least a semi intelligent charger. Jumping into the world of lithium ion, you'll be glad you did, and you will have less worries and more fun.

If it's worth anything, i've owned my P12 for about 6 months and find it worth $50 in every way. Im pretty sure both will serve you well.

The voltage indicator i find very useful. Just hold mode and click on/off button and instantly know if you're good to go or not.

The 1 lumen mode is fine for me. I use it to read at night from time to time. I dont sleep next to anyone so i cant comment on whether or not they'll be distracted or not.

I havent used any of the 'special' modes on the P12 seriously, other then to scare my friends when they are on their computer's. Though the beacon could be useful when you're changing a tire on a dark road.

These are apparently good batteries, I dont have them personally but this has been linked quite a few times in other forums. What i bought were Nitecore's own branded 2300mAh 18650's. Not worth the premium really but are just as good as any other quality batteries.

I also own the Nitecore D2 charger. Works perfectly fine for me. Alot of people seem to dislike slow chargers such as this so take that into consideration. Charging from 3.43v to 4.15v takes about 5 hours.

If you have anymore questions about the P12 feel free to ask.

For your Batteries? Nitcore i4, easily. It's got a safety cut out and great charge time, and it's the best value for the money. I love my Nitecore. Well built, definitely can see and feel the build quality between that and my old Trustfire.

Here it is on Amazon for cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416037391&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+intellicharger+i4&pebp=1416037395738

I'd also like to recommend for you a Nitecore D2 charger and purchase some good batteries over at www.illumn.com, I personally use Samsung 25r's but you can check out Mooch's battery list for other great cells. Battery safety should be a priority but it's really nothing to worry about as long as you have a good charger and good batteries.

Link to 25r battery: http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html

Charger: https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

If you have any questions you could hit me up or ask in the questions thread.

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip

​

Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20

Equipment

• Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  
• Custom 3d printed housing
  
• Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  
• USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  
• DC-DC Converter
  
• Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  
• Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  
• Add-a-fuse
  
• Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system
  
  Must Have Apps
  
  
• GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.
  
  Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
  
  
• pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  
• address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here
  
  More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.

All NiMH AA chargers work with any NiMH AA battery. (Most also charge AAA NiMH batteries.)

The old and dependable 4xAAA or AA, NiMH or NiCad charger is the Maha/Powerex MH-C9000. It can test cells and measure it's capacity, but you have to set the charging current. It's a bit pricey though. ~$53. It's my tried and true and I trust it will last for years.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C9000-WizardOne-Charger-Analyzer-Batteries/dp/B003DIGKOG

My other analyzing charger charges NiMH/NiCad and most types of rechargeable lithium cells 18650 and smaller to 10440. It's not as well built as the Powerex, but charges more types of cells and is less expensive: the Opus BT-C3100
I think the most recent version is v2.2 and is approximately $42
https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU
I use this to recharge both my NiMH AAA/AA's as well as my 18650 flashlight batteries. Opus has a NiMH only version of the charger, that I've not used: the BT-C2400 that sells for around $30.

For my NiMH C and D cells I use an Ansmann 8 plus charger that doesn't have a fancy LCD display, so cannot be adjusted or show voltage, charge current, nor capacity. But it does have 4 independent charging channels for C and D cells and 6 for AA and AAA cells. Apparently they go for $25 now... I paid a lot more for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/ANSMANN-Universal-Maintenance-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003V89RYS
I use this for the NiMH C/D cells that go into various Nerf flywheel blasters. I also use it for AA/AAA's when I need to charge a whole lot of batteries and the rest of my chargers are already being used.

The chargers at Ikea suck, don't buy them.
The chargers that came with the Eneloop packs that Costco used to sell, are nice individual channel chargers, but they're super, super slow overnight chargers when you put 4 cells in them.

A good source for NiMH/Lithium cell and charger info is the candlepower forums: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?9-Flashlight-Electronics-Batteries-Included

You don't already have the PD35? In that case, I would recommend a different light. The PD35 isn't bad, but the very similar Thrunite TN12 is generally regarded as better around here because:

• It comes in neutral white, which the vast majority prefer over cool white; the PD35 only comes in cool white.
  
• The TN12 does not have timed stepdowns in any mode, while the PD35 automatically steps down twice in the highest mode.
  
• The TN12 can tailstand and the PD35 cannot.
  
• The TN12 has a lower low mode.
  
  Alternately, there's the TC12, essentially a TN12 with a battery included and a MicroUSB charging port so you don't need a separate charger. Coupon code "THRUNITE" will save you a bit of money on either of these.
  
  The batteries I already linked are my recommendation for batteries. Chargers depend a bit on your preferences:
  
  
• The Xtar MC1 and MC2 chargers are about as inexpensive as a safe and reliable charger gets from a US-based dealer.
  
• The Nitecore F1 also acts as a USB powerbank.
  
• The Thrunite C2 is a fully-enclosed design similar to the smaller sealed powerbanks you've probably seen, but with a removable battery. It is not sold separately from the battery, but the included battery is of good quality.
  
• The Nitecore D4 is an inexpensive four-slot charger with a voltage display and the ability to handle NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable) as well as Li-ion.
  
• The Opus BT-C3100 is a four-slot charger that also handles NiMH (AA and AAA rechargeable), lets you select charging current, displays voltage, tests capacity, tests resistance and reconditions NiMH cells that have lost capacity.

With about $30 you can get some cheapest CR123 lights, like Fenix E15. At 170 lumens it's much brighter than just about any single AA light at this price range, while still being very compact.

Only issue specific to CR123 you need to be aware of is the much less common battery format itself. It limits you to using 3v lithium primaries that are no cheaper than $1.5 a piece or RCR123A Li Ion rechargeables - AW seem to be the most recommended ones and can be bought here for $6 a piece - you'd also need a charger for them bringing total initial cost into $40 range. Sticking to primaries is simpler but more expensive in the long run.

Personally I'd stick to AA lights trading off higher output of CR123 (or Li Ion in general) for better availability of primary (non rechargeable) cells and much less volatile chemistry of NiMH rechargeables. It depends on your goals - whether it needs to be more impressive or more reliable (my choice, also affects the quality level I'm not willing to go below).

As far as a proper recommendation would go: my own choice in that price range is Olight i3s EOS (I also bought eneloops and a charger for mine) - it's tiny, uses common battery format, has sufficient throw and brightness on high mode and decently dim moonlight. For your brightness focus though I'd go with either Fenix E12 - you can get AA cells in every corner of the world or E15 if you intend to use it closer to home/city and won't be fucked over by not being able to buy CR123 when you need them.

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

• LED Strip - $7
  
• Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  
• Motion detector - $10
  
• Power plug - $8
  
  And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:
  
  
• Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  
• Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  
• Power splitter - $6.50
  
  I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.
  
  and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.

American here, currently living in the West Midlands (so no local area advice from me for you re: Richmond/London). Ten years ago my wife and step kids moved to the US, and this year we moved back to the UK. Opinions are my own.

• What American things won’t be available in the UK (food, appliances, TV shows/movies)?
  
  These days, especially with Amazon and streaming TV, you can find pretty much anything you'd want. That said, some of it will be pretty pricey. As a brief example, I make my own jerky with beef from the local butcher's because fuck paying $30-$40 a pound for a tiny package. From both my wife and my experience, you will miss local foods/delicacies that just aren't common/popular. You will also discover new foods you've never had a chance to try before. If one/both of you enjoys cooking, you can easily get by. As an example, you won't find American biscuits in the UK.
  
  
• What are the big day-to-day lifestyle things that are different in the UK?
  
  It is a different country, and no one can really tell you what to expect, as experiences are different. I found crossing the street to take some getting used to, as I had 30+ years of ingrained lessons telling me to look the wrong way. You seem adaptable and open minded, which will be a good asset.
  
  
• Will people hate us because we’re American?
  
  No. No matter where you go, people hate assholes. As long as neither of you acts like a stereotypical American/American tourist, you'll be fine, and you will make friends. Respect that it's their country. Be careful about expression absolute opinions about politics, especially their politics. Assimilate and adapt where needed, and you will have no issues preserving your American identity as an "ex-pat" who is well-liked.
  
  
• Will my electronics work there (iphone, ipad, computer)?
  
  By and large yes. Anything that charges via USB is good to go, just buy some wall plugs for your cables. For most modern electronics (laptop/desktop/tv/monitor), they are typically rated to handle the full range of voltages (check on the adapter/power supply etc if you're worried). With a desktop you have to flip a switch on the power supply on your tower from 110 to 220, but with everything else, you just need to cut the plug end off the cable and re-wire it to a British fused plug. I would recommend one of these.
  
  Any appliances like hair dryers, things with simple motors, will NOT work unless you run them through a step down voltage adapter like I linked (unless you like electrical fires) so unless they're especially costly, you're probably better off replacing. Lightbulbs are different as well.
  
  
• How often will I be expected to watch soccer football?
  
  Never if you don't want to. If you are into sports and/or have sporty mates that might be different, but it's not a national religion.
  
  
• What else am I missing or should I know?
  
  How are you moving your stuff to the UK? We used upakweship.com, and it cost $2,500 door to door to ship two pallets. They'll be able to advise you on needed customs clearance, etc.
  
  I assume your partner's work will be arranging/paying for your visas?
  
  You'll have to figure out pet immigration.
  
  Don't call people Sir or Ma'am as a general rule. It's weird and is more likely to convey insult than offense. If you do slip, people will find it quaint.
  
  Since VAT is applied to products before pricing, instead of having to calculate sales tax on top of your purchase, if you have 5 quid in your pocket, you can buy 5 quid worth of things at the store.
  
  Public transport is generally better than in most major US cities, so that's a major plus.
  
  If you have any follow up questions I'd be happy to answer.

Depends if you're interested in the 18650 mechanical mods or more like box mods.

If you started on a kanger tank of any kind, most would consider a Nautilus an upgrade. But venturing further the Kayfun is probably a better option if you take the time to build and learn.

As for mods; You could use a Nautilus on an MVP 2.0 for a box mod. All the way up to DNA chip mods which just give you more exclusive control over your exact power input to the coil.

I started with an eGo-C and eventually decided to try new stuff. Clearomizers and different tanks. Kanger T3's to PT2. Cartos and all kinds of bs.

If I had to recommend you a set up via my personal tastes and through real testing. I would tell you to buy:

1. Sony VTC-4 18650 battery as many as you'd like.
   VTC-4 Purchase LINK
   
   
2. A mechanical mod like a Nemesis or Stingray.
   Nemesis Clone Purchase LINK
   
   
3. 28 Gauge Kanthal for learning and use.
   Kanthal Purchase Link
   
   
4. A charger.(You can use any kind you like but there are safety precautions to be had with batteries if you sub-ohm especially)
   Charger Purchase LINK
   
   
5. A 510 connection ohm meter.
   Ohm Meter
   
   
6. Organic Pure Cotton - Boiling them is your choice to do or not.
   Cotton LINK
   
   And your own e-liqid of course.
   
   None of these items are necessary to vape on and are not of a professionally organized list. But they'll definitely move you on up in the vaping world and your experience can be completely tailored however you like with these items.

There are brand names making them. Go into any Samsonite store, they'll have branded adapters. Go into Best Buy and there's probably an Insignia one. Go into Tumi and there's probably really expensive Tumi ones. But in terms of adapters (not converters), they're all the same thing. You're paying $40 for a Tumi adapter that probably came out of the same factory as every other adapter. And, they aren't even that compact.

They're metal and plastic that makes one shape into another. There's not much to them, so paying extra for a brand probably doesn't make sense. The exception might be if you want something with a fuse and a ground, you can go with these, but for most travelers, just a universal one works.

The best one I've found is the Kikkerland. It's just a few pieces of metal connecting your plug to the outlet, arranged in a clever way that always fits. It's probably not a brand you've heard of, but that adapter is quite well-respected by a lot of DM's and considered a great choice. Even then, it sort of gets looser and looser over time and it does feel flatly cheap. I mean it's $10.

Mech - I have the magneto and it preforms like a champ. Absolutely no complaints. I'd look at a nemesis clone by hcigar as well.

http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-nemesis-mod/

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SMOKTech_Magneto_Stainless_VE_p/smok-ssve.htm


Atty - Igo W. It has amazing preformance, and for $20 or so you cant beat it. I'd also recomend this top cap. It will make it look flush on a magneto, nemesis or any 22mm mod. It fits right on top of the Igo W and gives you airflow control. Watch the video on their site.

http://www.v-apes.com/The-Vapes-Cap-for-the-IGO-W_p_515.html

http://www.myvaporstore.com/IGO_W_Rebuildable_Atomizer_p/yd-igow.htm


Batteries - Sony Vtc4. Best batteries. you can get two for under $25. Make sure you get at least 2.

http://www.myvaporstore.com/SONY_VTC4_18650_2000mAh_Battery_Flat_Top_30A_p/sny65020-f.htm


Charger - In my opinion the Nitecore i4 is the best charger. It gets the job done and is dirt cheap on Amazon and free two day shipping with prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398042719&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+i4

sure, Here for a nice charger. This is the one i use and it was around $40 until a month ago. For batteries i suggest these, or these. For reference, they are both IMR chemistry batteries which is good, The price difference stems from the mAh difference. Having used both myself, the 2000 mAh efest will last just about all day (unless I'm partying or drinking) and is a good deal but the green ones are 3400mAh, giving you roughly 2 days per battery. Also noteworthy, the green ones charge in about three hours on the charger I listed.

You may be able to find better deals on the batteries out there but not likely for the charger. Because of this, I intentionally went with amazon, so you could save a bit on shipping.

Edit: added paragraph 2.

Here's what I use... It doesn't totally fit the bill for you, but other readers who want an ultracheap, ultraversatile high end light setup for hiking may be interested.


Convoy S2: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1883302

Beam Diffuser: http://www.fasttech.com/product/1140010 (so you can use the light as a lamp at camp)

Red lens: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10003970/1499103-nitecore-nfr25-25-4mm-filter-for-flashlights (don't quote me if it fits, reviews suggest it will)

Lanyard: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009328/1825605-nitecore-ntl10-tactical-lanyard-for-led-flashlight http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009328/1825604-nitecore-ntl20-tactical-lanyard-for-led-flashlight (So that it's attached to your pack's arm strap while on your head, fuck dropping your light in a puddle.)

Head strap: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009326/1825601-nitecore-hb02-elastic-nylon-headband http://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10012146/2062807-adjustable-elastic-band-for-headlamp etc

Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

Batteries: Up for debate, you want protected li-ion cells with the most mah's you can get. panasonic samsung sony aw etc are all good cells.

Bam. All in one you have an insanely bright and floody headlamp, a flashlight and a camping lamp, with no chance of dropping it while transitioning from headlamp to flashlight, a bit of water resistance, and no dirt/debris issues (like you would have with a zoomer.) The setup is great for people who want to take the approach of "flashlight that can be a headlamp." If you're looking for a headlamp that can double as a flashlight, zebra makes good ones and I'm sure nitecore would have some offerings.

IMO if you're not hiking through a place where you could buy AA/AAA batteries there's no reason you should not be using 18 li-ion cells. The only advantage to AA/AAA/cr setups is that you can pop into town and run your light off of batteries from the store shelf. If you're hiking the PCT or traveling away from home such a setup makes sense because there's towns and such along the way but if you're hiking a mountain or in the wilderness you'd be foolish not to be using 18 li-ion cells.

Sorry, but you got bad advice if someone told you to get powered monitors and a receiver. You've effectively bought two amps. Can you return either of them? You would probably be better off with passive speakers and an AVR.

Also, you can use RCA as well with the LSR-305. You just need a 1/4" TS adapter.

EDIT: if you're absolutely stuck with this setup then you can use a line level adapter like this one. The wires go into the receivers speaker output and you get RCAs to plug your monitors into. It's far from ideal since you're double amping but I've done it before and it does work pretty well.

This La Crosse Charger gets among the best reviews on Amazon for chargers, but there are quite a few 1-star reviews that say it has melted or starts fires. Lots of 5-star reviews, but saying "this product probably won't burn your house down" isn't good enough for me.

I own two Maha chargers, this and this one both are excellent. I had my first C401FS break; they sent me a replacement with no charge, so I'm very happy with their service. Not a Buy-it-for-life quality product, not many electronics are, but they make the best stuff in this category.

I think this kit might be a better deal. I have the same kit and it's wonderful. Flys my gopro/gimbal, amp data link, and a 2200lipo just fine (6 min flight times). http://www.altitudehobbies.com/iflight-frame-combo-kits/iflight-i450b-450mm-quadcopter-flight-combo

I love my APM boards, and would recommend one in a second. But save your money now, that's something you can upgrade later. Get off the ground with a cheaper FC and see how everything goes.

Edit: Charger I own 2, they work well - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_BnNIwbFQYR1R8

No, I'm pretty sure that is for a different battery chemistry. Check this out, this charger is the best I've used so far and I use it for e-cigs, the mflb, etc. It handles everything
Edit: I am a dumbass, yeah that would totally work, but I still strongly recommend that Nitecore. Don't fuck around with battery safety :)

I know you specifically said base but I highly recommend changing your entire life over to rechargeable eneloop aa's. You'll save a lot of money in the long run since they last for over 1000 charges. Get a good charger like this La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nmyOub154D833

I hope to god that links. Not sure how to do it on ialien.

Sure, typed a long explanation along with pictures at the end.

I powered the hard drive using its own separate power source through a AC molex power adapter. The PS4 when turned off actually powers off the HDD which is great even tho it isn't on the same power source.

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dpJKxbZ5GQ24E

Since HDDs use SATA as their power port, I got a cable adapter to hook it up to the power.

StarTech.com SATAPOWADAPR 6-Inch 4 Pin Molex to Right Angle SATA Power Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047AAM1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_qpJKxb0Q0PSJ4

I needed to find a 15 pin female connector without the sata part for the data part of the HDD (since the PS4 hooks the HDD with a 22 pin connector. Decided to get a splitter type cable and just shove the sata cable inside the space that the 2.5" HDD goes. Fit perfectly in.

SATA 22 Pin Male to SATA 7 Pin and 15 Pin Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9NEY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6nJKxb4JA00CY

Lastly, I needed a very good yet relatively cheap HDD. Decided to go with this one because of its high cache which acts like a SSD in the sense that the cache is flash memory aka SSD speeds. 4 TB meant I'll never have to upgrade ever again (I install everything without worrying about space, even games I don't play, and still have ~2.4 TB left. That's a lot!). Enterprise drive gave it high read/write speeds which I was happy about.

Seagate 4TB Enterprise Capacity HDD 7200RPM SATA 6Gbps 128 MB Cache Internal Bare Drive (ST4000NM0033) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A45JEX0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xmJKxb01NC516

I've bought these back in August of 2015. I have had no major problems by running my PS4 this way however there's two things that I find as cons. The splitter for the 22 pin cable is fairly short in length so the HDD can only sit so far. I haven't looked into a extension type cable as I don't mind it for my setup but I think it's good to mention that.

The other con is that IF your console freezes, crashes, etc. and you need to either unplug the console or shutdown through button, you may need to reset your connections. By that I mean, turn off PS4, then unplug power and data cable, wait 2 seconds, plug back in power and data cable to HDD, and reconnect the PS4 and boot it. It will either start up right away or you have to wait roughly 3 minutes for it to do the "Checking system" because you did a hard shut down. It's happened to me enough times that I know no data will be corrupted by this and you shouldn't worry. I leave my HDD out in the open but you can enclose it if you'd like so long as you give it breathing room and don't block any holes on it.

Phew... What a long reply through my phone 🙂. And... pictures: http://imgur.com/a/tpQCo

Just a heads up I am new to this form, so no way a expert but I use this nitecore charger that was recommend on another form. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096U26QQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also saw others on here use this one with the LCD screen, if your into the numbers aspect. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=psdc_10063711011_t1_B0096U26QQ

​

Now for banggood , I did use paypal and used my credit card on there so I have 2 companies backing me for fraud protection but just like ebay I think they are mostly safe with some venders being bad apples. Just be willing to wait a month for your light with no tracking because they never update it. The company selling this light though sells a lot every day so I would not worry with this vender. Hope that helps if you have anymore questions I would be glad to help :)

Its relatively easy. Splice into rear speaker wires for preamp (rca) signal, and run power & remote,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495131589&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+converter+for+car+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=51N99mFrh%2BL&ref=plSrch#


unless it's one of the newer signal sensing auto ON amps.

Or disconnect the oem Bose sub harness, leave it disconnected and tap into that harness for power, remote, and signal (+ & -).

As for the shop and the previous backup camera issue, find another shop asap. Those idiots either grounded the monster amp to the tiny ground screw that the backup cam uses, or they spliced into the camera's power wire as a remote turn on for the amp since it powers on with the ignition.

Try over at Best Buy, their auto installation bay area where they do alarms, radios, gps, etc.

Definitely check crutchfield.com. They have an online "what speakers fit my car" section, and their customer service is great, as well as their knowledge of in-car entertainment. You can even call them with questions.

Have you tried looking at the nitecore intellicharger? They're not terrible money on amazon. I've had great luck with my i2, although I've had it since end of June but they're supposed to he great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UAI372/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1381077327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165
I don't know where you're located but that's a link for US. Happy Vaping!

Model IH-005. The "Russian doll" Portable Dynavap Induction Heater.

​

Purpose: The purpose of this project is to create a design for a Dynavap Induction Heater that fit inside of a plastic 16oz coffee cup. Additionally, this design allows this Dynavap Induction Heater to be replicated using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.

​

Design: The design was intended to improve upon DIH-004 (link), which required the use of a custom chassis to align the internal parts correctly. DIH-005 incorporates a "sleeve" design (like a Russian doll) to align internal parts and provide a mounting platform for the induction heater power supply unit.

​

Features:

• Can be built using off-the-shelf parts and commonly available tools.
  
• Portable (battery operated)
  
• Stealthy (plastic 16oz coffee cup)
  
• Can be used one-handed
  
• 3-way toggle switch to run via internal rechargeable batteries; via 12V DC input; or off.
  
• 11.1v internal rechargeable battery, constructed from standard 3.7v 18650 lithium cells. Integrated battery management system (BMS) with balanced charging
  
• Blue status LED to indicate when running on battery power; green LED on lid lights up when induction heater is active.
  
• Sweet-looking momentary push button on cap.
  
• (optional) Additional Arduino momentary push button on cap (index finger operation)
  
• Move DC 12V input jack and main power switch to cap. Easier build process, easier dis/re-assembly of unit)
  
• A little bit of glass tube to pop out on the top, just because I think it looks cool.
  
  Parts:
  
  

  Parts List
  

  
  

• (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  
• (R) Container: Plastic 16oz coffee cup ($8)
  
• (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  
• (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  
• (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  
• (R) Battery Cells: Samsung 25R 20A 2500mAh 18650 batteries 3-pack ($19)
  
• (R) Battery Management System (BMS): HX-3S-FL25A ($10). This is a 3S (3-series) battery management system with balanced charging. You MUST buy a BMS with balanced charging if you intend for the battery pack to be rechargeable inside the induction heater unit.
  
• (R) Plastic Food Container: Look for 4oz round plastic food containers, with the correct dimensions (see diagrams). You want a container that can fit inside the 16oz plastic coffee cup. Try something like this. You can usually find a similar item in the food container section of a local Walmart, Target, or grocery store. Be prepared to use a saw and dremel to shave it down to the correct size.
  
• (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 15 pack ($9)
  
• (R) Switch (operating on/off): Momentary push button switch ($9) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw momentary switch. Voltage and current rating doesn't really matter. If you choose to get a switch with an LED indicator on it, you can forego the green LED on the cap.
  
• (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A 72W Power Supply ($10)
  
• (R) Switch (main power, both DC and batteries): Model 500SSP3S1M1REB. SPDT On/Off/On slide switch. ($4)
  
• (O) LEDs: A bunch of multi-colored LEDs ($10).
  
• (O) Index-finger switch: Arduino 6x6x6 tactile push button switch ($6)
  
  

  Miscellaneous parts:
  

  
  

• Electrical wire
  
• Electrical tape
  
• 2-pin and 4-pin electrical connector plugs
  
• Heat shrink tube
  
• Hot glue
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | jigsaw (hacksaw if you don't have one) | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits

We've historically used computer fans, which obviously don't plug into an outlet, but a simple DC adapter (like this one on Amazon or pick one up at basically any electronics store or like look around your house your old router or whatever likely used one) will fix that. You cited time concerns in not wanting to use an inverter, but honestly this shouldn't add more than, say, 5 minutes, especially if you're already making a trip to the store/waiting on shipping from the internet for the fan.

EDIT: Just to clairify, pretty much any adapter that says "Output: 12 V DC" on the back will work (assuming you have a 12V fan, which most seem to be)

I got a single 18650 digital heat control mod and a divine tribe .8ohm ceramic atomizer for it. here's the link to where I got the mod for $30 when most places have it for $50-80 https://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/heatvape-invader-mini-v2.html

you will need at least 1 18650 battery (Recommend a samsung 25R or LG HE4 or similar IMR chemistry battery) and a charger for it in addition to the atomizer and mod. you should be able to obtain 2 batteries and a charger for $30 if you shop for it, but i highly recommend getting this charger if you can afford it and have other friends with mods, especially if they use mechanical mods since they will love you forever for being able to check their battery voltage whenever they want. http://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y

Great story! I hope to be able to share a story like this, but maybe a little less hassle lol.
Flashlights/headlamps are my favorite so sorry about the long write up.

I don't know what head lamp or flash light your using but I recommend you switch over to using 18650 batteries. Batteries are a little heavier and bigger than the normal AA, but they last a lot longer and are rechargeable.


Everything you need to switch will run you about 25 for the charger, 40-50 on the headlamp, 40-50 on the flash light. and about 30 for 4 batteries. Out the door your looking at 155 give or take.


Also if your using the head lamp and your battery dies, you can just swap with your flash light battery.


Link is to the head lamp I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYJJQM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This link is to the flash light I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWW907A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Batteries I use. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-protective-plastic/dp/B01N9HB03A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525653&sr=8-3&keywords=18650+lg+battery&dpID=41kKYj1u54L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


and the charger I have been using. It does not give me money, not an affiliate link or whatever.


https://www.amazon.com/Efest-LUC-V4-Universal-Battery/dp/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540525708&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc+v4+lcd+charger

You're lucky you didn't burn your house down, but there's still time for that if you try to get creative without understanding different charge logics. Lithium batteries require a completely different type of charging (CC/CV) than NiMH (float or CC/peak), and there's no cute little circuit you can add to the X9D charger to make it play nicely with the 18650's. Even putting in a stepdown pack will essentially trickle charge the batteries, which can cause them to grow dendrites and be ruined if you don't have a way to monitor charge voltage and unplug the charger once it stabilizes.

Save yourself a lot of heartache and buy an 18650 charger to treat the cells right. If you don't like removing them to charge, you could also wire on a balance connector and use a LiPo charger, with appropriate settings.

4-5 hits and I'm feeling pretty good. I've found that the most important factor, is the battery. Like how long to hold the battery before attempting to sip. And knowing how often and how much to sip to keep a good temp. And that as you vape a trench and use up the battery, it takes longer.


Also, about charging them. I don't recommend using the charger that came with your mflb. I know with mine the batteries got really hot with it. I have This One that I got from Amazon. Its fantastic.

If your in a pinch and need to charge on the go (say in your car or whatever) it works, but for best (and quicker) results. Charge enternally. Here is a link for an external charger.

Happy Vaping :)

Nice find on the holders! I didn't even think about looking for holders like that... I just found these..

I currently have one of these. It would be so much easier and cost effective than purchasing another charger, and soldering up balancer leads on my diagram...

The Opus BT is really nice, I like the data screens for each individual cell.

Thanks!

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

I found Ni-MH rechargeables to be fairly unreliable, not due to the batteries themselves but with the bodypacks' battery indicators. Due to the wide variety of Ni-Mh batteries on the market that all have different characteristics that will affect their performance, especially how they are charged over their usable lifetime, it's pretty difficult to get a good readout on just how much juice you have left with any given set of batteries. Shure has documented this difficulty and their battery life estimates for Ni-MH batteries vary widely. I can only imagine that other manufacturers face the same difficulties.


You can help alleviate this by manually gathering data yourself from the battery through the use of a smart charger that will also help you keep the battery life stable if used to charge properly. But even with this insight on hand, I was having a hard time relaying the info to performers who tended to freak out when their batteries go from a full 5 bars and then the battery indicators suddenly start tanking. I had seen a graph (From PowerStream's own tests) and read some info (That I can't recall the links of off hand, but I remember reading on flashlight websites and forums) that indicated with Ni-Mh a steady voltage over a certain time period with a sharp drop off of voltage near it's end of life depending on the power draw. That tracked pretty well with my use with the Shure bodypacks which would indicate a full 4-5 bars over a short time period and then rapidly go down to 2 bars. Contrast that with off-the-shelf AA and proprietary Li-Ion batteries which have a fairly consistent set of characteristics and a steady, smooth voltage drain that leads to a predictable battery life that manufacturers are able to tune for in their battery indicator algorithms.

Edit: And that claim on the radio transmissions sounds like BS to me unless they're just referencing possibly poorer transmitter/receiver performance as the batteries die out.

If you want a pretty boss charger, here it is.

A higher quality charger will make your batteries last longer and do other things like show you the health of each one, charge at different rates (heat/longevity vs speed) and allow you to charge individual batteries without having to pair them up.

I had a pair of Turtle Beach x41 headphones that would eat up a pair of AAAs in about 12 hours, so I was changing them every day and a half or so. I ended up getting 4 Sanyo Eneloops and swapping them out for 2 years in college and they worked amazing.

If you have things that chew through batteries, get good rechargeable and a good charger. If you're going to throw them into your TV remote or something, stick with normal disposable.

On the charger I have the nitecore i4 you can charge up to 4.35v I believe, well, that’s what it says on the screen.

I’ve gone ahead and ordered 4 batteries from Fogstar (amazing price and discount so thanks guys for the heads up), and will fully charge those batteries. The more I come to think of it, the more I think the batteries may just now be completely spent from constant charging only to 3.7 and nothing more.

So just to clarify one last thing, because I seem to be a complete mong when it comes to the batteries, the charger i have is this one:

Nitecore Intellicharge I4 V2 Universal 4 Channel Li-Ion/Ni-Cd/Ni-Mh Smart Charger
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005UAI372/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6tQ9Bb7PNW8PK

I should charge at 4.2v as 3.7v is a nominal charge and the batteries can only charge up to 4.2v anyway right?

The 4.35v is just what the charger could charge up to but the batteries are limited.

If the above is correct I think I get you now and thanks for your help! Would just appreciate if you confirm

Cheers

Z

Well, I think I've answered all my own questions, but I'd love some confirmation.

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

plus

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-3-Fan-Splitter/dp/B01DV1Z0WC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504181073&sr=1-6&keywords=case+fan+molex

plus 2 of

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200067

Will that all work how I want it to? At 180 CFM, I sure hope it does.

where to begin...

your stock alt is most likely ~90 amps, you should be fine powering that hifonics off of it. that being said upgrading your battery is a good idea, even if that is just buying a new battery (something like an interstate megatronII will be fine) and doing the big 3 is also a good idea, at the very least upgrade your battery to chassis ground (0 ga CCA will be fine for this).

as for your installation options, you will be needing a LOC if you want to keep the stock HU, something like this will be fine.

the stock HU should be just fine running those alpines and no it does not put out 160W rms, its probably closer to 10W per channel so those alpines will cope just fine.

if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask, this sub is here to help.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWMFB9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one is amazing, and charges fast. Has 3 different charge speed settings. Best Charger i ever bought. The nitecore one I had originally completely died on me.

Edit* Going back I realize you stated you're in UK. I posted a US link. My apologies. But you can use that to find one on UK Amazon I'm sure lol Best of luck to you

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

There are like a million versions of that same basic adapter. You can probably score one off ebay for less than $3.

That said, if you want something super packable and light that works worldwide check out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00210MRGC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this badboy is awesome and super thin.

just to throw in, you will also need/want an external battery charger. I have a nitecore d2, that I am happy with. This is a safety concern and a practical one. Batteries can explode if not handled well, so they could take out your device and cause property damage, and some models with on board charging have crappy ports that will break.

Also you will probably want to get 2 sets of batteries since it takes a few hours for them to charge. This way you can swap them and it should help with the batteries life span.

As mentioned the sony 30q's, vtc's(5,5a,6) are the current go-tos. you may notice a MaH in the 2000-3500 range and that number determines how much juice they hold, higher numbers mean they last longer.

Make sure to read up on battery safety and you should be good to go. Stay safe and good luck with quiting, it helped me stop smoking as well.

Okay then, seems I've started a shitstorm. I'll pick up a charger ASAP, but it's going to at least be a couple of days. If it bricks like you're all saying it will, I'll be sure to post something. Thanks everybody.

https://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/

Hope that's sufficient, because I can't really afford much more.

The power supply for the HMD is rated at 12 volts, 1.5 amps. This "ZOZO" adapter from Amazon should work fine. I just checked my Vive HMD power supply with a meter and the polarity is "inner Positive(+), outer Negative(-)", just like in the Zozo description, so polarity won't be a problem. Just pick out the plug adapter that fits from the assortment they give you and set the voltage to 12 volts.

Edit: The $10.98 unit is rated at 12 watts, which is only 1 amp at 12 volts, so the current rating of that unit is lower that the original power supply. Maybe you'd better get the 36 watt unit for $14.99, just in case. That unit should be good for 3 amps, which means double the rated capacity of the original supply.

Amazon has a lot of other choices as well. Just look for 12 volt capability at at least 1.5 amps (or 18 watts), the correct polarity, and an assortment of plug adapters so that you'll get one that fits.

So pretty much what you're going to have to keep spending money on is the coils, and juices. Like /u/sfw123 said, you can do some maintenance and get some more longevity on them but depending on your juices they can wear out faster. But as you can see they're not all that expensive. Buying a set of those over weeks is still cheaper than a pack of cigarettes every few days.

On top of that , get some good batteries and a charger such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UAI372/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

You are spending a lot of money at once, but depending on how deep you get into vaping...you may end up saving money. But the most important thing here is that you're improving your lifestyle. It's money going towards a healthier life

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBFZDI8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

This is the charger I ordered, and it works great. I charge my batteries in series depending on color and the days in which I use them. Would recomend this charger for you.

As for batteries, there are a number of different batteries for your device. I use a Segeli 100w and a Segeli 150w and use the same batteries

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-INR18650-25R-Rechargeable-Batteries-2500mAh/dp/B00NUI4370/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451693052&sr=1-1&keywords=6+18650

Here are the batteries I ordered recently, this rest of my batteries were from local B&M stores, as well as small dealers.

Good luck to you, and should you want a decent website for premium juice, PM me and I will share.

I've heard good things about Amazon as well. The biggest complaint I have with EBL is that they get beat up super quickly - the foil label/cover started to tear of mine after only a couple uses. So far I have noticed any jarring issues with performance.

I'd recommend getting something like this charger that can test capacity - I didn't find much difference between EBL / Eneloop out of the package. I imagine that higher end batteries will hold up better over time in terms maintaining capacity and low self discharge, but I haven't come up with any empirical data to support that yet haha.

La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0ViXBb72GYW44

something like this or this?
and will the sound quality take a noticeable hit with such a setup? this record player is really nice but if it's going to sound like garbage i would just consider buying a newer one..

thanks for your help with this!

This is the one I use and it works pretty well and comes with a power supply and pretty much all the connectors you'll ever need and room to wire up others if it doesn't.

You can also find some great deals on Hobby King.
A lot of people use the Imax B6 but it doesn't come with a power supply (if you have an old laptop one that usually works)

The Accucell S60 is exceptionally good value but only comes with an XT60 connector (you can get other connectors or wire up your own). This one can only charge up to 4S LiPos but that's probably more than enough for Airsoft.

Just a word of caution- I bought a keepower 14500 and got it stuck in my SC52W. There is a ton of variance when it comes to 14500 dimensions (even within brand/model). I had read reports of people using the keepower 14500, so I didn't give it a second thought. I pushed it in (like a dummy) and it pretty much jammed/vacuum locked in. I had to epoxy a nail to the end of the battery and pull it out like that. The amount of force tore the protection circuit from the end of the battery. Woof.

Anyway, Zebralight makes a 14500 with 840mah. That's the top capacity for a 14500 (a Sanyo cell). I would just get that! If you want to go cheaper, I know the trustfire 14500 cells fit.

And for a charger- do you have any other LiOn cells or lights that will take them? This charger is a good one and will charge pretty much every battery you have.

You can power the Fireboard from any of those external 5 volt USB power packs. You can also use a 12 volt external battery pack plugged into the Drive cable to help power the fan and the Fireboard.

Whenever I use my Fireboard and Drive cable and fan I also plug in an external battery to the Fireboard itself just in case the fan ends up needing more “juice”.

I have been happy with some of the Anker brand battery packs. I have a few in various capacities. Here’s a link to one of them: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194WDVHI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an external 12 volt pack that I use for a variety of things that can be plugged into the Drive cable adapter itself - one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Either approach will work. From what I’ve read you really only need the 12 volt power supply if using a bigger, higher cubic feet per minute fan that what Fireboard sells.

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.
   
   
2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.
   
   
3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings
   
   
4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.
   
   
5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync
   
   
6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest
   
   
7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...

Exactly what col0ringbook said and you should be ready to rock. I don't know about a charging "dock" for the batteries but you could find a nice charger on amazon. Something like this or something from xtar would serve your nicely https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504631083&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore+charger+d2

CV will drop the current to keep the voltage at your set point (4.2V). CC is also known as "bulk charging". The CV phase is essentially topping it off. It's usually about the last 20% or so of the capacity.

So basically, you need a dedicated CC/CV charger (like a hobby charger or an 18650 charger), or a variable bench power supply -- very handy to have around. Or a good stable power source, a large variety of resistors, a good, solid handle on Ohm's Law, and a lot of time on your hands. I personally like a charger like the Nitecore i4 for my LiIon batteries.

Well, originally I used the guitar slide and I had about 7 coils. It worked fine, but the LED stopped lighting up on the switch, and I went back and redid the wiring really well. From that point on, the LED still didn't work but when the button was pressed the LED on the heater unit would light. Once a dyna was inserted into the coil, however, the light would go off. I posted here and someone recommended that I switch to this PSU, and it's worked fine since. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG

When I went to mount into this case permanently last night, I metered the switch out and it looks like the LED is hosed. A replacement switch will be here tomorrow.

Stainless tip.

Thanks for your guide!

This massdrop isn't really a big savings. Especially adding the shipping cost. At least if you already have amazon prime. Total at mass would be $13 ish @ i2, and $18.49 @ i4, while amazon the i2 is higher priced, being the only deal by way of $2 at massdrop, and the i4 is cheaper by .05 on amazon.

(Amazon prime is a worthwhile awesome service and at such a low cost, i recommend it highly, plus there is a free trial to check it out in case you don't have it.)

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.

Edit:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

Ordinarily you would use a charger configured for the same voltage as your series-connected cells. It's also better practice to use larger cells instead of a series-parallel connection. It's a lot easier, actually, to use a battery already configured for your purposes.

If I were doing what you're trying to do, I'd go with a total 12-volt system. This amplifier contains the bluetooth receiver so all that would be taken care of almost automatically. It is also rated close to the Sure amplifier you were looking at. You could still use the Sure amplifier, though it would have somewhat less power on 12 volts.

Here is a battery/charger combination that will provide a bit more capacity than you would get with your design.

If you want to charge the battery and use the amplifier at the same time, you would need to make up a special cable for the charger with a current-limiting resistor to avoid damaging the charger.

Hope this helps.

I purchased my batteries from this product page exactly.

I have yet to try charging the Samsung batteries in my vape but that's a great idea! Troubleshooting is always about eliminating variables. I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks for your time and consideration.

thats a kit with crap batteries and a crap clearo.

This one is a little better (I recommend 18650 battery if you're an all day vaper), however just get everything separate. You will spend a LITTLE more money, but its better equipment and you'll be much happier.

What I suggest:

Vamo V5

Charger

VTC 4 Battery

V2 Aerotank
I seriously cannot recomment this tank enough!

You'll be much happier with this setup that isn't chinese garbage

I give you high marks for workmanship, that thing's pretty cool.

Here is a module to consider if you want to upgrade your design. This little module uses a switched mode voltage regulator instead of a linear VR, which makes it MUCH more efficient - about 95%, vs. the 50% or less you'll usually get from a LVR. The efficiency is so high that you can supply up to 3A at almost any output voltage without a heat sink!

You'll still need your diode bridge and initial filtering caps to provide unregulated DC to the module, and you'll need to desolder the pot and replace it with an equivalent that you can mount externally so you can adjust it easily.

Maybe try a different browser or a different profile on your computer. but here are the links...



Recommended Beginner Setup

• Top Airflow Saionara Includes the Titanium Bucket
  
• Espion 200W Box Mod Small 2 Battery Mod (Links to FastTech China Distributor, for faster shipping find a US Retailer)
  
• Pair of Sony VTC5A 18650 Batteries
  
• 18650 Battery Charger
  
  >Optional
  
  
• Pair of Extra Batteries
  
• Poseidon V2 Bubbler for Saionara Bucket
  
• Puffco Prism XL For Concentrate Storage and Easy Loading
  
• Bamboo QTips Stronger than normal paper Q Tips
  
• Glass Mouthpiece Highly recommended!
  
• Spare coil (If you get more than one get them without the bucket, one spare is excessive, but worth having around for only $3 extra. )
  
• Sai Molecule Coil
  
  It is smart to have a spare set of batteries just in case. Simply swap out the sets, so you always have a fully charged mod with zero fuss.
  
  Use two different types of batteries that are different colors to ensure they stay properly married (Always keep your batteries as a pair don't mix), you could also order 4+ of the same type and just label them with permanent marker.
  
  

  Arctic Fox and Sai Setup Guide >

48v 2 channel amp

Subwoofer amp

8" weatherproof coaxials

Subwoofer

Head Unit

line out converter

Head unit shield

Need to be pretty handy for this setup, but it isn't anything crazy. The amplifiers will power on when you put juice to them so you'll need a switch. You can run off of the main batteries with these amps, and the head unit off of the 12v supply. Those coaxials are meant for wakeboard speakers... I would do 4 per side, depending on how loud you really want to be and how much space you have available. Having a real head unit will make sure the signal has enough signal strength to run the 2 channel, and the sub amp will be fed by rca right from the head unit.

Sub will need a box, might look for one that is sprayed with bed liner for weather resistance.

For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.

We're not sure which one (if any) is a 'white label' of the other (they look very similar) but as an alternative we've been very happy with the Kikkerland UL03-A. It's also affordable at about $10 (and currently less than the one above).

https://www.amazon.com/Kikkerland-UL03-A-Universal-Travel-Adapter/dp/B00210MRGC


We're r/Onebag travelers so volume (4 1/8 L x 1 6/8 W x 5/8 D inches, per our measurements) and weight (1.6 ounces, per product page) are very important to us.

We've plugged/unplugged it over ~75 times over the last year and it's as good as new.

This /r/ warned me about the dangers of ... getting more stuffs. I'm really enjoying the Subox Mini. It's works just great for me and is a much more satisfying experience than the 1st gen cartomizer based ecigs I used and gave up on years ago.

My beginner problem was that I ordered a sampler pack. Well, I'm on day 4 and I'm only now just about to finish my first tank. So in theory, just to try all the other flavors (5 more) would take me 20 days.

Ended up ordering two more tanks so I could get some variety. A 1 x Subtank Mini and 1 x Subtank Nano. I figure this way I could use the two minis for my staple flavors and my Nano can be my test tank for future flavors since the capacity is smaller.

And if I stopped there, I'd be a reasonable man. But no. Then it's like, well - would be nice to have a pouch for transporting stuff and maybe I'll buy into the whole use an external charger thing... and while I'm at it I guess I will pick up a spare battery... oh on sale 2 for X price? ... then I guess I should be safe and get some battery cases... etc. etc.

What have you done to me?

For anyone still using a Wii or Xbox, get some good Rechargeable AAs. Ikea makes some called LADDA, which are really good and pretty cheap. Don't use a cheapo charger though. I have the Opus BT-C3100 which is fantastic, but there are also cheaper ones that are good.

OP Wrote:
>What is the easiest way to drive a strip of LEDs

You suggest:
>Arduino. Or ESP8266.

This is BY FAR not the easiest way to drive addressable LEDs. There are many, many off-the-shelf LED controllers that are extremely cheap, extremely simple to set up and operate, and provide numerous standard animated patterns - nothing too exciting, but very very easy.

And if /u/hoti0101 were capable enough of getting Arduino or ESP8266 to work then they likely wouldn't be asking this question here.

OP, here's the easiest way:

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-WS2812B-DC5-12V-Wireless-Controller/dp/B01DC0JKGY

To power it:

https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU

Just make sure you use 12v strips with that setup, the battery pack puts out 12v.

There's a few things you can check.

First, most adapters do NOT convert voltage, they simply make the plugs fit in the other hole. If you look at the 'power brick' of the device you're connecting if it has one (AC to DC converters like USB wall chargers, laptops, etc.) then they will have Input and Output sections (most will have something like "Input: 100-240V AC~50-60Hz 0.5A"). Anything like this doesn't need a voltage converter, just the outlet adapter so it fits in the hole. Hair Dryers/Curling Irons are notorious for exploding when plugged into 240V, which is why they almost all have a switch somewhere that must be set to the higher value. If you have it set to 240 and plug into 110, it just won't get hot enough. The other way around is bad news.

If you do have a voltage converter (which is highly unlikely, it would be a very expensive and heavy device. $20 on Amazon will NOT convert voltage), then it should say somewhere on it (or in the instructions) what the output is. In this case, it should have been something like 110V AC~60Hz ???A. In this case, if your device tries to draw too many amps, you can blow up the converter (or more likely your device just won't work). For example, this device has a maximum of 200W which is flirting with what some curling iron type devices use. I am having trouble imagining any situation where using a voltage converter would blow up the device connected to it, unless the converter output was set to a higher voltage.

But in general, all of that small print that is on things that plug into outlets actually has some important and useful info. As long as everything is in range, you shouldn't have any problems.

I can't tell who's serious and who's joking.

If serious, in addition to what you said, I'm the sort of guy who always has a stash of rechargeable AA batteries. Powers my scanners. Also, a good AM radio that runs on AAs.

I like this charger

And these AA batteries

I'm in 2 land, so power outages are more of an issue here. Like, with Hurricane Sandy.

Yes :) here they are:

Handle: link

Mounting plate: link

Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link

Follow focus: link

Rods(16" & 6") link

Handlegrip: link

Lens support: link

Shoulder pad: link

Rod clamp: link

Cold Shoe mount: link

To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link

Battery: link

To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables

Magic arm to hold the monitor: link

Samsung SSD 500gb: link

SSD holder: link

Monitor: link

HDMI cable: link

BMPCC 4k cage: link

I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link

I think that's it :)

More info such as battery type, size, or connector would be helpful.

I've got one of these and it works great.

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zxaozbHDJ31TQ

If you only have one type of battery or much smaller batteries, there are definitely cheaper options.

Bestek universal travel adapter

I traveled to South Africa and just used a simple voltage converter and was fine. I also had my laptop, tablet, phone and camera to charge. But sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry 😊

I use Eneloops. I have both the old Sanyo and the new Panasonic onea and both seem to perform identically. As for a charger, I can't recommend the La Crosse BC-700 enough. I used to use the cheap wall bricks (like the Amazon Basics one) but they tended to stop charging after a year or two. Also, they don't intelligently charge so they could be reducing the life of your batteries (see the "edit" below.) The La Crosse has stayed with me for 3 years and it has so many options that help improve the life of each battery. Most cheap chargers ate around $10-15 USD and the La Crosse is typically on sale for $35 USD. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Vq8Xzb7J1J3G8

Edit: One of the big advantages of this charger is that it reads each individual battery and only charges it as long as it needs. Most "dumb" chargers (especially ones that charge in pairs) uses a set time charge and can reduce the life of your batteries.

Edit 2: there is some evidence that the Amazon Basics rechargeable batteries are rebranded Eneloops. So for those who want to save a couple of bucks, you could get those instead of Eneloops and you'll have comparable, if not identical, batteries.

Fair enough! I've been using the german version of this thing for a few years now, and while it might be slightly more expensive than the apple thing, it has a shit ton of useful functions and is very reliable. Also look up some eneloop reviews, they basically behave like disposable batteries, i.e. all the advantages thereof, and mine have all been working great since 2011 when I bought them. Worth every penny!

Wiring is easy: http://imgur.com/kd6Pwtc http://imgur.com/DxcS9Pz

Amazon PSU:http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2FMDD8QKQ6M50&coliid=I287Z6SOLAGXV5

Figure in the power costs you save and the ROI on one of these is less then a GPU mining rig. It can actually save you money if you sell your current rig and switch to all of these. :)

Just make sure you get a good set of batteries for it, maybe 2 aw imr 18350s and 2 aw imr 18650s then get a good charger for them,I recommend the nightcore intelicharger to get all 4 charged at once and safely

Fair enough, so long as you know the actual continuous amp limit of your batteries. The best current ones are samsung 25r with a 20 amp continuous rating. A good charger that won't burn your house down is a nitecore intellicharger i2. As for the gear you picked out from fasttech, you're going to be waiting a long ass time to get it, since they've got slow shipping from china. The devices themselves are kind of sub par so you'd be better off with a stingray x and an RDA of your choosing. My personal suggestion for RDA would be mephisto or lancia. This is just coming from someone who has had a lot of experience with this hardware and others, it's better gear for the long run.

I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RSOV50/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since 2013 with eneloop and now these Amazons. I recently bought a cheaper charger that is compatible with a lot more batteries the Nitecore D4. Also fine would be Nitecore I4, D4, D2. Any would get the job done in great form. I found Amazon a bit expensive so I bought from http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers.html?___store=default&brand=211 based on many great reviews by http://budgetlightforum.com/

Nitecore is recommended alot on this sub. I haven't used them myself but they seem to be very good and for a reasonable price. They have the 4 slot and the 2 slot available.

edit- Also 10 dollars is about what a good battery(sony vtc4) will cost you. You could probably find them a tiny bit cheaper but 10 dollars isn't bad.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6JTILK/ the nitecore i4 $18

http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-D4-CAR-Adapter-BBOX-T-Nitecore-Integrated/dp/B00LZONPF2 the nitecore d4 $32

both are eligible for free shipping if you spend $35 or more on qualifying purchases from amazon

i have the D4 and love it, wish i had gotten a car charger for it though

It looks like just a regular AC wall charger. This thing has tons of attachments and one will definitely fit!

ZOZO 12W 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Regulated Multi Voltage Switching Replacement Power AC Adapter for Household Electronics Routers Speakers CCTV Cameras Smart Phone USB Charging Devices

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_733.Ab75XZ3PX

Okay, assuming those are real (I have my doubts when it comes to FastTech), those are 10A max draw batteries. Not really a big deal if you don't plan to sub-ohm, but these Samsung 25Rs are honestly a better buy and will carry you safely all the way down to ~0.275 ohms should you ever decide to build a low resistance dripper.

As /u/sadosmurf said, the Nitecore charger can be found on Amazon for a bit cheaper. Actually, you could get the Nitecore i4 for just a little bit more than what you're paying for the i2 on FT.

I have been using the La Crosse BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger for several years now with great success. The reviews are mixed, and many folks recommend the pricier BC-9009 in its stead, but I have been 100% happy with the BC-700, and it is extremely affordable.

However in a device like the Istick 100 those batteries should be perfectly fine. If you were using something like a mech mod or box I would say NOPE but the istick is fine. I would still get an external charger as the usb ports on mods are not the greatest things (they work but still). Also if you have amazon prime you can get a pair of LG batteries and a charger on the cheap (http://www.amazon.com/LG-18650-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00S9Y2KTI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458335926&sr=8-10&keywords=lg+batteries) and (http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1CRGW5A9KKP5RNXH8736 I personally use the D2 version but for 5 bucks its up to you). But honestly I wouldn't sweat it till next paycheck.

/u/maxvapor710 has the drag on his site for a very competitive rate, and sells (18650) batteries as well. You can charge on the mod but it's nice to have extras you can just swap out, and for that an external charger is the way to go, and probably a bit safer as well. This is the one I have though I only paid $32 for it one year ago.

Same here with a converter And came with small adapters for all scenarios. Love this thing. 20+ countries 4 continents and makes you a hero at the airport where everyone is sharing one outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

I wouldn't consider that a beginner device, you could consider getting the Katana kit from Vape Dojo, or an eGo kit from Discount Vapers or Steam Monkey while you're learning the ropes. I'll try to provide an explanation, regardless.

What you will need for your mod are batteries, a multimeter to check them, and a topper / clearomizer.

Batteries: MNKE, or Panasonic. You can get smaller/shorter ones as well, I just prefer the big ones so you can go longer without a recharge.

You don't want to store these at full charge for too long, probably not longer than a week at most, and you won't want to drain them. A drop of about 1 volt is probably the max. This may vary, some people drain them a lot lower but I believe it's safest not to do so.

Charger: Here is what I use. I hear Pila also makes good chargers, maybe shop around.

Clearomizer: Kanger Evod or Protank II are both good. The Protank II is glass and can be fully disassembled, the Evod is plastic and has just two or three pieces. You can pick up replacement heads at Discount Vapers or just about any e-cig vendor.

Let me know if you have any questions, there's a lot to take in.

I am new to fish finders, but I have the garmin in my kayak and like it so far. This is how I mounted it, and links to the power pack and accessories I used. There are larger power banks but the 6000mah, was perfect for my needs.

https://imgur.com/a/TeAAv5y

Battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse (I cut the original one off and soldered in the blade sytle)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4RNB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable gland set I used for the pelican box

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077R1RT2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.5mm plugs to soldered to the garmin cable to plug directly into the battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPL8MVG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pelican Case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LZ5HDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd go with the d2 personally. The i2 is fine, but for a couple bucks more, the digital screen is very nice. The i2 just has a few bars to display charge percentage.

If you get the d2, use this link from Amazon instead...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426760654&sr=8-3&keywords=Nitecore+d2&dpPl=1&dpID=41u88etBdKL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Make sure you pick the one sold from direct from Amazon. It's only 19 cents more, and you 100% know it's authentic.

/u/spacetimmy \^ this charger is your most basic intro, I bought the more generic Tenergy combo (XT60 plug needed) and it has suited me till now (9 months). I upgraded to the ISDT Q6 plus w/ parallel board & PSU and DAMN i was missing out. So much happier now. but take /u/pkvillager 's advice if you want to upgrade later, my buddy sports the iCharger w/ a server psu and it's a BEAST.

I also rock the Turnigy graphenes 4S 65C and they have been GREAT! I know budgets hurt, but i tend to buy my lipos in two's. In the event one flakes out.

not sure if in the US, buuuut WAIT FOR MEMORIAL DAY SALES!!!!!! I have patience, and tend to wait around for sales, next ones will be memorial day. Shop around and determine the best place to get the most things.

I picked up an Intillicharger about 3 yrs ago after some looking around, still working fine...can't remember how much I paid for it but was on a budget and was pleasantly surprised how affordable it was.

This was the one.... Price here Under 20 bucks :)

I'd recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU
if you can't afford a more expensive battery atm.

You need to make sure whatever battery you use has a 2 amp output or greater.

This particular battery is 12V/2A and should power your rig all day.

It's also suppose to have a good safety circuit (per Deity Sound which tweeted about using this battery for camera stuff)
(https://twitter.com/deitymicrophone/status/1116920789360500736?s=19)

Dude, $100 is a lot if you go for clones. Except for those with 'authentics', all of our rigs are well under $100.

Here is what I setup for my brother:

4nine - $21.51

Kayfun Lite Plus V2 - $30.02

Nitecore i2 Charger - $11.79

18350 Purple Efest Battery - $4.24 each w/ 'ISPower' Coupon

28g Kanthal - $5.45

Bag of Cotton Balls - $3

_____

Total: $66.01

...and that's a REALLY nice setup. You could get away with half that and still have a great setup.

For your subs, you can pretty much get any $15-$20 loc and be fine.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pz3xxb48SVB7F

If you dont want to wait for shipping. Im sure your local electronics or car audio installation shop has one. Best buy carrries some too, if that's by you.

I love my rechargeable AA batteries. I haven't done the extensive testing OP has on life, but I generally swap out batteries once a month or so it feels like, probably 15-20 hours of playtime. This is using the generic Amazon rechargeables.

For anyone using rechargeables, or thinking about it, a critical part is a good charger. I highly recommend La Crosse chargers. They know when your batteries are full and stop putting a full charge into them, which is why batteries start to die (at least in my layman's understanding). The below charger is the one I use, and has served me great for ~4 years; batteries that I got 4 years ago that could hold 2100 mAh still hold about 1900 mAh.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RSOV50/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_bAz4IxX_g23_i9?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0Y0S02PTT2NKTK4BX89P&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=766ea26f-ee7e-5847-8308-2ed606857887&pf_rd_i=10063711011

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Can be had for <$16


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|China|www.amazon.cn||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Discontinued? I'm not sure what is giving you that impression.

Don't go with the Panasonic charger. Well, you can. It's not like they're bad or anything. Something like this charger is going to be a nice upgrade. Each battery is individually charged like on the Panasonic. It also has a couple quick charging options.

Sweet, thanks for your help! I actually broke my first starter kit because I pushed the pin too far. I'll take up on your advice and by a nylon washer or something similar.

Two last question, I hear people don't use the built in charger for the batteries. I'm guessing people use something like? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBFZDI8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Second, did you have to clean your Griffin when you first got it? I remember my first tank had some machine oil but I didn't know how to clean it properly. Is baking soda and vinegar enough?

I went with this one , was recommended by my friend at work. And I am digging the free Prime 2 Day shipping haha.

That price range is about right. I'd say it'll be on the lower side of that if you do some shopping around. Plus it depends on what you already have.

You'll need an 18650 mechanical mod like this one:

http://www.angelcigs.com/fuhattan-style-18650-mechanical-mod.html (~$20)

A RDA if you want to blow clouds. I really like the tobh atty as a beginner RDA, but do your research for your purpose as something better may be out there: http://www.vividsmoke.com/ehpro-tobh-v2-rda-clone.html (~$20)

2 18650 batteries at least 20amps (they take a while to charge and after one is charged you should let it settle for a day or so, so 2 or more is best): http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Purple-2500mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00P8BXE3G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419698688&sr=8-3&keywords=efest+18650 (~$20)

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH STEAM-ENGINE.ORG. Basically, don't build a coil with a resistance so low that a higher amperage is demanded of the battery than it is rated to deliver. This is the basis for all the safety issues you hear about. That and shorts, both of which can be found and fixed with an...

Ohm Meter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291199272849?lpid=82 (~$8)

Battery Charger: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419698805&sr=8-2&keywords=18650+nitecore+charger (~$15)

Kanthal: http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Resistance_Wire/RW0118.html (~$8)

Organic Cotton: http://www.cvs.com/shop/baby-child/bath-skin-care/cotton-swabs/cvs-100-cotton-triple-size-organic-cotton-balls-skuid-405326 (~$3)



So in total that's ~ $95.

You'll also need a wire cutter, precision screwdriver set, drill bits etc, but those are household items or easily come by at harbor freight or lowes or something for cheap.

I just ordered the RX200S from ft for about $43 USD, ordered 3 25r's from illumn.com for $5 a pop and ordered this charger from amazon.

Edit: This was meant for a different thread but it looks like it applies here as well, haha.

Receivers like this aren't usually designed to feed power amps other than an active sub-woofer, with it's own built in amp. It's to be expected, for convenience sake that everything needed, including the amplifier is contained in that one box.

Power amps on the other hand are more for people who prefer to build a system using separates. Separate amp(s), separate tuner etc., and using a pre-amp (some have tuners built in and others don't) as a switching station, volume control etc., for all of the separate components.

The only thing I can recommend is to use a speaker to line level converter. Here is an inexpensive model for example of what it is sake.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451244396&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level

This will connect to the speaker terminals of your receiver instead of speakers and will convert that signal to a line level signal needed to feed your power amp. The receiver will still control the volume etc.

If you are going to use the Fisher STV-893 towers as your front L&Rs for the 5.1 Pioneer VSX-521 system then those are the speaker terminals you want to use the "speaker to line level converter" on.

I still see so many people using those bulky power adapters for international trips. Clearly not enough people know about the Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00210MRGC

It's the about half the thickness & weight of all of those other adapters.

Care to share your database? :)

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

Well I don't know what it is and I'm not a fan of in-cell charging. Here's a charger that's good and popular: https://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO/ref=sr_1_3

What I do for all my lights is buy 2 batteries and keep a charged spare. When one runs out I swap in the charged spare and recharge the other and put it away into its box.

Good luck!

If you want to stick with stock motors, imr cells will work fine. But those are icr, not imr. most use aw or efest cells. the nitecore I series chargers are what alot of people recommend, though i prefer the luc series. Both are good.
If you decide to go with rhino motors, a pack is going to be the way you want to go. 14500 cells just don't have the amperage to handle them properly or safely.

Yes, it will be fine to charge them one at a time. Make sure they are both 100% fully charged before use. The Cuboid will display each batteries power level at the bottom of the screen.

If you need a dual bay charger, pick up a Nitecore i2 for around $14 on amazon.

ALSO! The Cuboid can charge batteries via the USB port. Joyetech and users don't recommend it. As the battery's can get warm while charging and that mod doesn't particularly have the best battery venting.

> Istick tc100w

Heres the thing. By design USB charging should be fine. But a lot of these manufacturers dont think the situuation all the way through. USB charging is fine iun a pinch but standalone chargers have too many pros for me. My LUC v4 chargers faster, has a more accurate reading, and can charge faster than a mods built in.

Sure you can use USB charging. But there are a lot of instances of them exploding and I havent seen a battery charger explode. Just stop functioning. So you can if you want. There are plenty of people who use USB just fine and dont die. Maybe the TC100 has better USB. But if you decide to get a second set of batteries you'll want that 4 bay charger.

TL;DR You can if you want. But we dont recommend it.

I get adapters for my cords so I can carry fewer: I have just a short and long USB-C cord but then alternate tips I can put on it to change into micro USB, lightning, and plug into a regular USB slot if need be.

I also carry a tiny flashlight on a keychain hanging off my pack - it's surprising how often this comes in handy.

The Kikkerland Universal Travel Adapter is AMAZING, works everywhere and is a third of the size of most travel adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Kikkerland-UL03-A-Universal-Travel-Adapter/dp/B00210MRGC

I wouldn't order that from fasttech, you can get better quality stuff from us suppliers for a little more and have it in a week. hcigar nemesis is $30 from 101 vape when in stock or $40 elsewhere and better than the fasttech one. That fasttech patriot is 20mm I believe, you can get a nicer tobeco 22mm patriot on ebay for $17 shipped or so (I just got two, 101vape also has them). Get sony VTC4 batteries- sun vapers has them in stock for $10 right now. you can get a nitecore i2 with amazon prime for the same price as fasttech.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Patriot-Clone-Rebuildable-Dripping-Atomizer-Tobeco-RBA-RDA-Stainless-/171251225859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27df5e5503

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nemesis-2-Tone-Clone-HCigar-Atmomixani-Mechanical-Mod-Vape-Vapor-/181336359158?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a387d40f6

http://www.sun-vapers.com/buy/sony-18650-vtc4/

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

or an i4: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-EdisonBright-converters/dp/B00GODG3X0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393724004&sr=8-2&keywords=nitecore+i4

In Chile we have 220v outlets, while ya'll have 110v outlets. Before using this adapters you have to make sure that your device says 110~240.

This'll do: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adapter-Converter-American-European/dp/B0078QEY9M/

Something fancier (i have this exact same one): http://www.amazon.com/Insten-Universal-Travel-Charger-Adapter/dp/B000YN01X4/

State-of-the-art travel adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-33117-International-Travel-Adapter/dp/B0002H4YUI/

If you need 220v to 110v conversion you gonna need this baby:
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-200-Converter-International-Countries/dp/B000W9DJ1Q

I hope it helps. Cheers.

edit: Is your screen name an Opeth reference?

I think that review is mistaken. I just double checked with mine, and if you YouTube 'Mikevapes IPV5' he will confirm not USB chargeable. As far as charger I love my Nitecore I4, but there are a couple of great ones out there. Im just having a straight up brain fart on them (on little sleep this week).

http://www.amazon.com/Version-NITECORE-i4-Intellicharge-Charger/dp/B005UAI372

This is a really solid and pretty affordable option. 4 ports is all you should need, and in the case of you getting a VTC mini, I'd recommend getting one just to cover your bases and make sure you never run out of batteries, and to prepare in the (likely) case you get another mod or two (or fucking five, in my case).

If you don't wanna shell out for the 4-port, here's the same thing just with two ports.

And in case you were worried, chargers are fine to buy from Amazon. Batteries, however, are not, and should be bought from sites made specifically for that purpose (e.g. www.illumn.com)

http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Charger-Generation/dp/B005UAI372 - $22.50 for the i4. That's in the realm of the reasonable.

I'm a fan of the Panasonic CGR18650CH 2250mAh battery, but I don't know batteries from a hole in my head. Those ones work well for me. $8ea is a pretty good price. I've seen them as low as $6, but that's highly rare. Amazon's where I usually get them - YMMV.