Reddit mentions: The best battery holders

Hey there! I work with LEDs a lot (but only strips of LEDs, not singular small pieces, but it's one and the same), and I'm a foamsmither too! Here's some of my work!

For LEDs, you can use any 3V small coin-battery operated LED like this. To power them, you can just use any 3V coin battery like this, perfect for what you're using! You may also opt to use a holder like this, if you want to wire them and easily replace them (instead of having to leave the coin in between the LEDs). They're easy to set up, the longer leg is positive, the shorter is negative.

If you're looking for transparent pieces you could use acrylic plastic, but that's a little expensive too. I use acrylic all the time, and getting a round piece is very tedious. The problem with dark red acrylic sheets is that the LEDs do not shine well through them, or at least, in bright lights like con settings, they don't show very well. Here's an example from my Project Zed blades, they shine well in the dark, but not well in the light.

If you do wish to opt that route, you can order a sheet of red acrylic plastic from here. I use these guys all the time, they're great. You could ask them for a commission, but it's like a $100 minimum (which is super expensive). It might take a few days to get out to you if you're on the East Coast like I am.

With painting, you are supposed to prime and paint with EVA foam. The best way in my own opinion (there are lots), for both ease of durability and quality of paint is to spray with plastidip, and then use acrylic paint like Liquitex Basics to paint over it (my favorite brand). When you're done painting it, spray a coat of plastidip over it again to seal it. Unless it rubs against other pieces or touches anything, there's a good chance it won't chip or scuff at all. After I made the switch, a lot of the paint job on my armors held up really well!

I've never worked with wood glue before, I've used gesso and that worked really well at showing off the colors I wanted to, but it's very susceptible to chipping when rubbing, unless you put a lot of coats on it. If it's foam, I don't know if moisture would not rub off of wood glue, but it definitely doesn't on plastidip. I walked through a huge rain storm for NYCC and just wiped the rain of and it was like I first painted it.

Apologies to you for the follow up wall of text (and shameless plugs) but feel free to message me or comment if you need additional help! :)

Pick up a G305. Also grab some lithium AAs as they last an insane amount of time and are lighter than normal AAs. I personally use a lithium AAA with half of one of these adapters to make it even lighter but the AA is already a massive decrease in weight.

It's a solid mouse with the same body shape as the Logitech G Pro (not the Pro Wireless, which is a totally different shape) and it's great for small/medium hands. That said I have large hands but claw grip and I love mine.

If you're new to buying mice, wireless and light mice might seem like "nice to haves" but especially for FPS games I feel they're imperative. As soon as it's in your hand and you play a match you'll understand. This is a great site to learn about solid mice and read/watch reviews on ones you'll be recommended like the G305.

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

Hey, thanks! Sorry for the late reply, didn't expect this post to get much attention. Lol.

Here are the steps I took (in order):

• Sketch your build or design. Get a general idea of how you want the sides, front, back, and endcap to look. And where you want the electronics to go. That includes the button, battery, and LED placement.
  
  
• Make sure that the parts you order FIT inside your main body PVC. The Custom Saber Shop has this for the LED that will fit nicely inside my main body. I'll post my entire order from TCSS below this comment as a reply. And decide how you want to power your build (AA, AAA, or a Li-Ion battery). For ease, put the batteries at the end cap.
  
  
• Decide how big you want the body and the shroud (outer PVC) to be. I used 1'' PVC as the body and 1-1/4'' PVC for the shroud. Both are the white SCH-40 PVC. You can include other materials for your build if you choose to do so. I didn't include anything else but PVC for my hilt.
  
  
• Go to your local ACE or Home Depot to select PVC's that will most resemble or help craft your hilt. Pick whatever screws you want for the attaching of the shroud to the body just as long as the length of the screws are within boundaries of the smallest PVC diameter. But get a screw with a big enough diameter to press your lightsaber blade firmly against the hilt. Get a screw or two that will press the LED module to stay in place. I winded up going to ACE for screws and HD for the PVC. And you might as well pick out the spray paint if you choose.
  
  
• Get some craft paper (any really as long it doesn't have holes in them) and wrap one around the larger PVC and make sure to tape it. Now that you have that cylinder paper, press it smoothly to make it flat. Copy your design on just one half of the paper and cut with scissors. Include the placement for the screws, I forgot to do so in my build. Do so and you will get results like this.
  
  
• Over the actual PVC in which you'll be making the design, trace your craft paper on it with a sharpie. Make sure your craft paper fits nicely with the diameter of PVC for ease of tracing.
  
  
• Once you have all traces laid out then you can begin cutting the PVC with a Dremel / rotary tool (they're the same thing). For some cuts, it might be easier to use a hacksaw. Pre-drill holes for the screws. Make sure your drill bit is exactly the same diameter as the screw. The same thing goes for the button(s). If the button still doesn't fit sand it a bit with the Dremel.
  
  NOTE: If your battery pack does not fit inside your PVC main body sand around the PVC from the inside in a circular motion (move upward if you have to) until the battery pack fits. I used three AAA for mine. I bought this battery pack from Amazon. They fit nicely after some sanding in my PVC. Make sure there is still some friction so the battery packs don't go swinging up and down.
  
  
• After cleaning the dust off, you may apply the spray paint to each piece. Use some filler primer spray paint to hide any cuts or imperfections on your PVC designs before applying the main colors. Let it dry completely. Once it's dry completely you can add some weathering.
  
  
• For installing the electronics see this video. If you want a switch that lights up, see this video and/or this video. Rob is really great at explaining the steps for beginners. Since I already have experience with electronics I could skip these steps for this project. I will note that you could use an Arduino Nano to program the AV momentary switch and the LED if you have one around but does require some programming skills (the coding isn't long). If you still want to use the M-to-L converter, use my sketch to help you out. Edit: #7 & #8 are just the for the remaining wires on the button. It doesn't matter where either wire goes here. They are just for the buttons inputs.
  
  NOTE: Keep a track of wire management. Too much wire can cause electronics to push against one another too much. I fell into this problem. 24 AWG to 22 AWG will do fine. And USE heat shrink as Rob advises, it will make a difference as time goes on.
  
  
• And once it's all said and done, enjoy!
  
  WARNING: Wear a breathing mask to avoid PVC dust in your lungs and wear goggles! And make sure to not breathe in any fumes from the PVC because the Dremel will heat it up you do not let the PVC cooldown in between cuts or if you sand for too long. For the best protection do this outside if you can and shower afterward.

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

Ok, you have about ~3.5 liters of internal volume to work with. It's pretty tight for any more surface area than a 3" driver or equivalent. I'm going to assume that you're okay with a ported box over a sealed box since you'll get a lot more sound out of the small form factor.

Drive-wise, there are 3 easy options:

• 1x full range 3" like the AuraSound NS3-193-8A which would go into the box with a 1" diameter port (or any shape of equivalent cross sectional surface area), 6" long, which would tune the box to about 50 Hz. This design gets you the most dB's for the least $$, as far as I can tell. The port will add the low-end where you want it for music. If you want to go completely sealed, you lose an octave of bass.
  
  
• 2x 2" speakers like the Dayton ND-65-4 with a port tuned to 70 Hz, which would be a 1.25" port 5.5" long. This option is simpler in terms of bluetooth amps.
  
  
• 2x pre-built speaker module such as the Tang Band T2-2181SA (pricey, but simple)
  
  
  Then you'll need a 2x50W class D amp with bluetooth pre-attached. There are tons of these all over amazon; my favorite chipset is the TDA7492 or the TPA3116D2. Wondom, Dayton, Drok, Sure Electronics all make decent versions.
  
  For power source, if you want batteries that's a bit of an added cost, otherwise, you just need a 24V power supply rated in the vicinity of the nominal output power of the amps (75W will be more than enough). Otherwise you'll need a 24V battery pack, which you can make out of 6x 18650 cells (I linked some expensive ones because there are a lot of fakes on Amazon, there are cheaper "protected 18650" cells out there) and wire them in series with 18650 battery holders and you'll need a 6S li-ion charger. You can always opt for a 12V system for simplicity; you'll need the same bits but just 3-Series instead of 6.
  
  If you want a cool switch, there are a billion options
  
  The speakers range from be $15-$60, and power supply (battery or wired) will be an extra $20-$60 depending on what options you choose, making it $65- $150 (with the amps) in total, for the outlined options. And that's about all you really need.
  
  If you want to get fancy, you can add some inductors to high-pass filter the amplifier output in order to prevent the speakers from bottoming out, but that has to be calculated on a case-by-case basis. Let me know if any questions.
  
  Edited for clarity

Its nowhere near professionally done, but it works well for me. Both my goggles and glasses inside were fog free last weekend when I played. This was way cheaper than buying one of the goggle fan kits out there that kinda sorta work for only one kind of goggle. As long as there's space for a fan the way I did it should work for any brand. As for specifics on the fan and battery compartments, I used these fans and [these battery boxes](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4L76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
). Again, as long as the fans are small enough to sit on the side/somewhere on the goggles then it doesn't matter what brand of fans you use. Hope this helps some of yall.

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Title|Recreating the 40-Yard Dash Speed Test with a Raspberry Pi and Phototransistors
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Length|05:31
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Description|In this video, we show how we created the NFL's 40-yard dash speed test that is used by scouts to evaluate the speed of potential American football prospects. To recreate the test, we used a Raspberry Pi, phototransistors, laser diodes, resistors, a analog-to-digital converter, and a simple Python stopwatch program. Using these materials, we created two laser tripwires separated by 40 yards. One tripwire starts the stopwatch, and the other stops the stopwatch. ⤶⤶For more information on the code and our wiring setup, visit our github repository: https://github.com/chris-gong/forty-yard-dash-rpi⤶⤶Thanks again to our friends for helping us out: Alex, Taylor, Ethan, Zach, and Grant⤶⤶Join our discord: https://discord.gg/2xbR5qT⤶Support us on patreon: https://www.patreon.com/flopperam⤶⤶Social media links:⤶Twitter: https://twitter.com/Flopperam⤶Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/flopperam/⤶Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/flopperam⤶Alex's Twitter: https://twitter.com/uhFakie⤶⤶Materials Used:⤶Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/ELEMENT-Element14-Raspberry-Pi-Motherboard/dp/B07BDR5PDW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=raspberry+pi&qid=1565404835&s=gateway&sr=8-4⤶Phototransistors: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Phototransistor-Photosensitive-Sensitive-Sensors/dp/B00M1PMHO4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=phototransistor&qid=1565404855&s=gateway&sr=8-2⤶Laser diodes: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-10pcs-650nm-Diode-Laser/dp/B071FT9HSV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=laser+diode&qid=1565404876&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶Breadboards: https://www.amazon.com/Breadboards-Solderless-Breadboard-Distribution-Connecting/dp/B07DL13RZH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=breadboard&qid=1565404905&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶Battery holders: https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Holder-Bundle-Single/dp/B07BNMKNQX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+holder&qid=1565405063&s=gateway&sr=8-5⤶Analog-to-Digital converter: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Converter-Programmable-Amplifier-Development/dp/B01DLHKMO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=raspberry+pi+adc&qid=1565405226&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶Breadboard wires: https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Breadboard-Optional-Assorted-Multicolored/dp/B07GD2BWPY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=breadboard+wires&qid=1565404930&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶10k ohm resistors: https://www.amazon.com/Projects-100EP51210K0-10k-Resistors-Pack/dp/B0185FIOTA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=10k+ohm+resistors&qid=1565404944&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶⤶Music Creds⤶Song: Royalty Free Music | Victory - Hip Hop Beat | No Copyright Instrumental⤶Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D-LoMTbvx4⤶Music & Arrangement: Marjan Gjorgjievski⤶Mix & Mastering: Marjan Gjorgjievski⤶⤶Song: Lakey Inspired - Blossom⤶Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7ArnZl_zBU⤶Follow the artist, Lakey Inspired:⤶https://www.facebook.com/LAKEYINSPIRED⤶https://soundcloud.com/lakeyinspired⤶http://instagram.com/lakeyinspired⤶⤶#nfl #40yarddash #raspberrypi

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^/u/SmallYTChannelBot ^made ^by ^/u/jwnskanzkwk. ^PM ^for ^bug ^reports. ^For ^more ^information, ^read ^the ^FAQ.

Get yourself a piece of something bent. You can go clear polycarbonate or you could go aluminum for pretty cheap. If you go full metal (lol) make your viewport polycarbonate. Then you'll need a box for the lights. These are bright and cheap. Wire them up to a momentary switch so that they're only on when you press the button. If you want a quick burst like Blitz, you'll need a circuit board to control the burst so that it will only be for a second and you'll have to release the button and press it again for another flash. Batteries is the tough part. I'm guessing this could all be accomplished with a simple AA battery pack but that doesn't really sound fun. One of those big 6 volt batteries should power the whole thing. The lights themselves are going to be bright. Building an enclosure for them that reflects light forward would make it even better.

Easy mode is just getting some pre-made floodlights like such.

NI-MH batteries are around 1.2 volts per cell. A battery holder like the one I linked will wire them in series. So the 10 cells together will give you about 12 volts.

Here is a link to some battery holders that already have lead wires attached.. If you fill them with 10 NI-MH batteries, you can just wire to the leads for your 12 volt connection.

To make this work, of course you will need some good NI-MH cells. I've been really happy with Eneloops like these though I'm sure others in this sub know more than I do and could give you other good recommendations.

You will also need a charger, and preferably one that can handle at least 10 cells at a time. I've had good luck with this one from Tenergy, but again you might want to ask this sub for recommendations. There are lots of people on here that have more experience that I do. Good luck with your project!

Not sure if you ever found a solution but your best bet seems like opening it up and removing the rest of the original battery compartment and solder on a new one like this to where the original terminals connected to the motherboard.

Just because streamers use something, doesn't mean it will be good for you. I'm sure it's a good mouse, but you might not like it.

However, if you are interested in that kind, the G305 is better if you use a chargable lithium battery like this and any AAA to AA adapter, or an aluminum foil ball. Instead of just a regular AA battery. It's the same thing but wireless, and Logitech wireless performs the same as wired, so you don't have to worry about disconnect or latency.

Whatever you do, don't buy any plastic flashlights. If you wanna buy some flashlights at a reasonable price, try getting some Maglites. They can be serviced if need be and will last a long time. If I can't afford expensive flashlights at the moment and would need to buy a bunch of them, Maglites can be purchased on the fly at the box stores.

But if you want the real deal, then get a state-of-the-art tactical flashlight that can fit inside your pocket. ThruNite, Nitecore, Fenix, and Convoy are the kings of flashlights. Personally, I recommend the Thrunite TC12 V2 as the reviews on this flashlight praises its durability and reliability. Not too many people had trouble with this flashlight, except with the V1 because people complained about cycling through modes to get to the one they want.

Since power is an issue. Rechargeable batteries are the way to go. 18650 Lithium batteries will last you 500 charges, but you can pick up rechargeable batteries in AA, AAA, C, and D-Cell Nickel Metal Hydrate as well. Since the flashlight kings have torches that run off of 18650, there are adapters that you can use in case you can't get a hold of them. If you want to stick with primaries and AA/ AAA batteries, then get Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells. They're pricey but they last a long time and can be stored up to 25+ years.

Since this is a third-world nation you're sending these lights to, then USB rechargeable lighting an absolute must. If you want true independence, get a solar charging kit, portable energy storage, and a USB rechargeable battery system. You can use the solar panels to charge your flashlight and your rechargeable batteries without ever using the power grid.

This mouse is amazing. I upgraded from the G203 to the G305 (same shape, but the G305 is wireless) and it is amazing. I would recommend getting some AA to AAA battery covers to reduce weight, it does help a lot. Or you can just use foil. The only thing this mouse lacks is RGB, but RGB on a mouse isn't too important to me

Link to AA to AAA: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly I see no reason to get the GPRO over the G305 at this point.

• the Hero sensor tied with the 3366
  
  
• the G305's a wireless S-M hand mouse!
  
  
• you can get it to sub-90g with a few easy mods (I have some AAA-to-AA converters from my Atheris days)
  
  -the batteries last for months even if you leave it on; no charging ala G903/G703/G403.
  
  
• It's $60 compared to the GPRO's current $43 on Amazon US.
  
  Granted, I would've loved a wireless G303, but I'm really, really impressed by this thing. +A Logitech.
  
  Link for AAA-to-AA converters

Switch out the lenses if you suspect they might be dirty.

Alternatively, take them out and clean them in warm water and soap. I fielded dirty goggles for a while and it was a night and day difference to see through them while clean! :)

Cut the foam out of the vents, too, and try running without a helmet on. Keep your balaclava off your nose if you wear one.

You can also get away with cutting out some rubber from the vents themselves to increase airflow. Be careful with how you do it, though, and be mindful that BBs can enter your goggles at this point.

If none of this works, I recommend some home-rigged fans. [Here's a 30mm (1 inch) 12V micro fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/Gdstime-30mm-Small-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00MYNX0ZI) You can get a battery pack with switch that has an output of 12V. [Here's a 8x AA battery pack with a nominal output of 12V; even has an on/off switch built in.] (https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS)

AA batteries typically output 1.5V a piece, so 8 of them in a case provides 12V. The small fan should draw no more than 1A. 8x AA batteries should supply at least 400 mAh a piece, so you'll have a total current of at least 3.2A coming from your load. You could safely power 3 fans, and given how efficiently they run, you could probably do so for quite a while. I'd recommend 2 fans wired in parallel with the battery pack, though you may only need 1 fan to do the job.

If you don't know anything about electricity, I could post a common-sense wiring diagram if needed.

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

You don't want to buy the socket for that plug, you want to cut that plug off. You will not find anything off the shelf that this

To create 12 Volts, you need 8 AA batteries in series (one behind the other). This light draws 0.5a, and a AA battery has around 2-3Ah of charge, so 8 batteries should drive this for about 4-6 hours.

This is 8 battery pack

You cut off the car adapter, and connect together red wires and black wires. Must be insulated from each other (simple clear tape would do). Or just bring the parts to the playa, and I'm sure there are 1000's of folks who can help you wire it. Great way to meet new friends!

This plus this and this attached to the side of my goggles under the strap, with the battery pack zip ties onto the strap (holes in the strap and pack) works perfectly for me, and is pretty cheap. Those fans specifically are far better than most at their size.

Pi A+ -$23 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00PEX05TO/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new)

monitor - $13.69 (http://www.amazon.com/Rearview-Monitor-Automobile-Support-Resolution/dp/B008BFGDMU/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1425707624&sr=1-1&keywords=backup+LCD+monitor)


RFID scanner - $6.17 (http://www.amazon.com/Contactless-Proximity-Reader-EM4001-Windows/dp/B00M3V438E/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425706532&sr=1-11&keywords=rfid+reader)


Battery box - $5.79 (http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK)


mini USB keyboard - $6.04 (http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-Protective-Leather-Keyboard-Tablet/dp/B008JBPP9I/ref=sr_1_79?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425707892&sr=1-79&keywords=7%22+tablet+usb+keyboard+case)


5V UBEC - $6.87 (http://www.amazon.com/Zjskin-Receiver-Servo-Power-Supply/dp/B00PANR6EK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425708123&sr=1-1&keywords=5V+UBEC)


So ... $61.64, starting from scratch, and not trying all that hard. Probably need $8 Wifi and a $5 USB hub ...


I feel like if you really tried, you could shave $10 off that. If I were me, I'd use a UBEC off my desk, and 3D print a battery box ... but, then, I think I have that entire setup in my parts bin, except the RFID reader, so that's not fair.


Still, yeah, I think for the price of a few lunches out it's doable.

EDIT

You could cut the monitor and keyboard (20$), find a cheaper battery box, and tape it together as a handheld scanner ... you'd just need an indicator LED for when you successfully scanned, and someone would have to connect to your serial port and log in to see if you were caught.


It'd be nice if you could find a reader that cheap that could talk to an arduino ... then you could do a 'dumb' scanner a lot easier.

I have a small PCB style LNA. I have it connected to one of these 9V battery holders. The built-in power switch makes it very convenient to turn on and off. Mine has been going strong for a couple of weeks on the same battery, not nonstop use of course. Also, has been pointed out, tapping 5V from USB would work. Not sure how different voltage affects performance at various frequencies.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4L76/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these little feet to mount the PCB LNA so it's not floating around in the air. I might have a friend 3D print me a nice enclosure for it.


https://www.amazon.com/Dashtop-Mounting-Arcade-Windows-Raspberry/dp/B01HNUSKRY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=S963UM4QHP83&keywords=pcb+feet&qid=1566684515&s=gateway&sprefix=pcb+feet%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

that battery tray you linked doesnt seem to be wired up. maybe this is more what you're looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Battery-Storage-Plastic-1x18650/dp/B071JBRYF3/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=18650+battery+tray&qid=1551039435&s=gateway&sr=8-2

instead of a 12" tube i'd buy something flat that you can just curl up and insert into the cylinder.

the cooling fans just look like PC case fans. almost every PC guy would recommend Noctua fans for cooling a PC, here's a nice small 80mm that i think would work well, and a controller

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A8-FLX-Premium-Computer/dp/B00NEMG9K6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pc+80mm+fan&qid=1551039869&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-FC1-4-pin-PWM-Controller/dp/B072M2HKSN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pc+case+fan+controller&qid=1551039926&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and i did find some aparently suitable wire, in multiple colors so you can coordinate your color rails.

https://www.amazon.com/StrivedayTMFlexible-Silicone-Electric-electronic-electrics/dp/B01LH1G2IE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=silicon+allterm+wire&qid=1551039773&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr0

​

You can buy them like https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=12v+nimh+battery+pack&qid=1562450990&s=gateway&sr=8-1.
Only 2AH but thats x2-x3 the capacity of either your NiCad or that AGM you linked.

I see you can pickup 5AH C-cells off of amazon 6 for $25. $50 + some pipe (plumbing abs / old flash lights) , spring, wire and solder and you'd have yourself a 12V 5AH NiMH battery bank. Assuming real-estate is there.

Late Edit:

You can screw around with a 4 + a 6 cell holder like https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-BH261B-Battery-Holder-Terminals/dp/B0038Q8BI6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=6+cell+battery+holder&qid=1562452039&s=gateway&sr=8-5 to sum up to 10 c-cells if you're looking for a cheap prof of concept before chasing down some nice polished Al or thick ABS pipe.

Looks like it uses a 2.1mm barrel plug (but I can’t be sure from that product listing, there’s a chance it’s a less common 2.5mm barrel plug).

If so you can easily use any 12v battery pack with a 2.1mm connector. Here’s one that uses AA batteries.

Alternatively you can use a rechargeable one with a 2.1mm male to male cable.

3S 18650 Battery holder

Balanced charger for above

Note that the charger board has 4 connections to the batteries and 2 more for the 12V in/out (6 total). Like this.

You'll want a 12.6 v supply for this (not 12v - 12V isn't enough to charge this)

You can tie the charger, battery pack and heater coil all together. Make the charger so it unplugs (obviously). When you have the charger plugged in, it'll charge + give a boost to the heater. Unplugged, the heater will run on the batteries.

This battery configuration will only put out about 2-3 amps (I forget), so heating is a little slower than the 6 amps the heater really wants. The difference is like 15 vs 18 seconds.

For some good glass tubes (for inside the coil), search eBay for "Cloupor Cloutank M3 Glass"

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Something like this might work, although you will probably need to do a little jerry-rigging with double sided tape and/or velcro to get it to stay in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR93NJM/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1

The AAA size might fit better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H8S38HE/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1

If you can hack up a connector for inputting to a AA battery bank, then you could put D cells in an external battery box for much longer power.

If you solder something like this: AAA to AA adapter shell with wire leads that go to something like this: D cell box, then you'd be able to use the larger batteries in devices normally too small to fit them.

This will work pretty well, giving you 6V and 1.8-2.5A depending on the AA's you put in it with a built in switch.

These were the converters I used. There are way more than you obviously need since you only need one, but I have back ups ready in case one ever abruptly dies.

WAYLLSHINE 16 PCS Clear Color AAA to AA/14500 Battery Holder Converter Adaptor-(Batteries are not included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153KYBNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0JhvCbKT0XRWD

Buy a 30 rpm gear motor. Something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-30RPM-DC-Electric-Gear-Motor-Gearmotors-High-Torque-for-Toys-/331891809816?hash=item4d464b1e18:g:I4MAAOSwmtJXb~Qq
would work. Add a shaft adapter like https://www.pololu.com/product/1078 to mount the spinning part. Add a 6 volt battery holder with switch like https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00HR93NJM

The induction heater? Made it. It’s just a $10.49 part off Amazon, a switch, and 3 18650 batteries.

The guy on FC selling that skeletor kit has to be laughing to the bank. He’s quadrupling his money on those things.

edit: Amazon link for heater in case anyone wants to buy one. Just hook your 3 18650 batteries to it with a holder, put a switch in-between, and you're good to go. Those are the exact parts the skeletor kit uses, he's just making it look tidy by soldering things rather than just sticking the wires in the plugs and screwing them tight.

In that case, I'd go for something like this. Replace the existing wires with 18 gauge and it should work well. Also get something like this for charging and protection.

Yeah, something like a AA battery holder inside the case. The Z-11Pro2 has room inside the case for it and even has solder pads to make it easy. It's described in the manual. I don't know if the AT-100Pro2 would allow for something similar, but it seems to be of similar size and construction to the Z-11Pro2 so it might be worth taking a look at.

There's a few ways to do it. Amazon sells some battery holders for cheap that run off of AA batteries (8 of them to be exact) so you don't have to be tied to an outlet at all times. There are some sealed rechargeable power adapters (6000mah units) that I'll likely end up using. If you use the AA way you can get rechargeable batteries if that floats your boat.

Cheaper AA adapter

6000mah adapter

There's also a $15 off of $75 through eBay right now (code PSAVE15TODAY). You might find some other adapters or strip light solutions there.

Standard LED strips are what I used for the lighting. If you want battery-powered, I used these to make that work. It runs 8x AA batteries. The battery back can stand upright in the back of the case. Since it's black too, you really don't even see it. You could easily get some Velcro and attach it to the outside though (easier access to the on/off switch).

Honestly can't say how long the battery life is, as I ended up selling that case (I made another one with some upgrades and left off the battery pack).

————————————————————————

DC 5.5x2.1mm Male Connector 8x1.5V 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/OFF Switch w Cover Pack of 2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEBW7Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WVH3w45VGCnZ5

Hey, thanks! There are plenty of better drop photographers out there using computer-controlled droppers. I'm old-school and just used a regular eye-dropper.

Here are the lasers I bought for this project. I soldered them to these battery holders that have a switch built in. The laser will run about a week on two AA batteries. I know because I forgot to turn it off once and came back a week later and it was still going!

As others have said, you can just use 12 volts from almost anywhere.

Easiest would be 8AA batteries in a holder like this. Use rechargeable batteries or this might get expensive.



If you wanted to get fancy you could find bigger and better battery packs. Maybe even a nice lithium ion pack....but that could get expensive and complex.


Reviews on those lights you linked to are pretty harsh. Not sure if they'll have enough light output for what you want to do...but what the hell, give it a try!

I'm using these.

They will fit into 5/8" ID tubing with the LED strip, but it's kind of tight. I'm only placing about half of one holder in the 5/8": the rest of the electronics are inside the connector. The full 3/4" would be a lot better if you could go that big.

I ended up going with this route: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

I think it is just an easier option for someone like me who shouldn't be digging too deep into a field I know very little on!

Battery Pack!

On my main wishlist!

Thanks for the contest!

Some of the AA Eneloop NiMH batteries come with AA-to-D adapters. Actually, D is listed in the sidebar of r/AAMasterRace because devices that support D batteries are also AA-compatible devices. The Eneloop adapters only hold 1 AA cell, which is not very good. There are TONS of them on the market that can hold 3 AA cells, like this one:

• AmazonSmile: DSLRKIT 3AA(LR6) to D Size Parallel Battery Convertor Adapter Holder (pack of 4): Home Audio & Theater

Here's a good place to start. How many K'nex do you have? This geared motor should be sufficient. This is a battery case.

Use a AAA Lithium battery!

Also I would always prefer this:

https://www.amazon.com/WAYLLSHINE-Converter-Adaptor-Batteries-included/dp/B0153KYBNI/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526562320&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=aaa+converter&psc=1

Then cut the top and the bottom to safe some more grams

https://imgur.com/a/ktdxVme

or use foil

Just buy one of these heaters plus a battery holder then add a momentary switch.

edit: If you want to be super cheap you could make a battery pack, skip the holder and switch, and just plug the battery in to the heater. Not that I'd recommend that, but if you want real cheap that's an option.

I got one from a target that brickseek specifically said was out of stock. They had a few and they didn't have any kind of indication that it was marked down I just asked the employee to price check it and it came up at $34.98. So I would just call around to targets and ask if they have it.

EDIT: Here is a video from Linus Tech Tips about the g305. Getting a AA to AAA adapter and using a AAA battery helps the weight distribution dramatically.

Funnily enough, I learned not too long ago they also make adapters...

Absolutely.
CO-RODE 8 x AA 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/OFF Switch w Cover Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_E2Lq75GukclKc
MEILI LED Light Strip SMD 3528 16.4 Ft 5 Meter Waterproof 300 LEDs 12V Flexible Rope Light (No Power Supply), Blue >>[And Green And Red]<< https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDNAM74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_88h2Weq3pqCKv
AspenTek 2835 3528 LED Strip Light Inline ON/OFF Switch DC Power Adapter Connector ,No Need Welding, 3 Packed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H0GR3E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MQf9cblTta6L1
We soldered everything together (we didn't use provided connectors)
Hope this helps!

so lets say I used a 12V battery power supply, connected to a step down for 12V to 5V, connected to the arduino, should i be fine??
Battery: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522627066&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery+power+supply

Step down: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B01ENT1PPM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522627182&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=12v+to+5v+step+down+converter&psc=1

This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/

Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.

I would say yes.

My hands are the same size as yours, my main mouse used to be a G203 which has a very similar shape to the G305.

Use AAA Lithium Batter With this to reduce the weight of the mouse.

Well, you could get some 5050 leds that work on 5 volts and could just plug into a usb battery pack: https://www.amazon.com/AVAWAY-Flexible-Waterproof-Background-Decoration/dp/B073RZ7XMR/

Or, if you want to stick with the LED strip you have, this battery holder and some rechargeable AA's might do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS

Energizer Lithium AAA and AAA to AA Converter. You can find cheaper prices than the links provided, these are just the first listings on Amazon.

It's a battery adapter. Specifically you put one of these batteries inside of one of these things and you can save yourself a hand full of grams in weight while losing out on 2/3'rds of the battery life a standard sized battery would net you. It's one of those pro/con pick your poison situations.

Depending on the solenoid it'll probably take more current than a normal 9V battery can provide.

If it doesn't need to be portable, there's plenty of options for cheap 12v power supplies.

If it's going in a car you'll want to just run the wires from the battery.

If for some reason you need it to be portable and don't want to plug it in you're going to need a decent sized battery. If it's a small enough solenoid (i.e. an amp or two max) you could get a battery holder. There's also plenty of 12V RC batteries.

Here

You use a AAA lithium ion battery and either a piece of aluminum foil or a AA to AAA adapter which will bring it down to 80 grams. Shouldn't be a noticeable different between that and some "shitty" mouse that is apparently one of the lightest out.

AA

AAA

That do it?

There's ones for coin cells too, but they seem to be all 2x cells, which would be a bit too high voltage.

This one, 8 AAs

[Battery holder for three 18650 batteries] (https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Battery-Storage-Plastic-3x18650/dp/B071ZQ2X2T/ref=sr_1_12/140-5364689-5700410?ie=UTF8&qid=1517732407&sr=8-12&keywords=18650+battery+holder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_snqmDbQ60QACS

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK?sa-no-redirect=1

You could also use a AAA battery with this. Thats personally what I use and the weight distribution feels very close to the G-pro.

He means to use these batteries and these converters.

Normally I'd make the case for rechargeable AA cells but those get very expensive for occasional use electric candles.

I think the aluminum foil trick is more for emergencies, for permanent size changes you could use a converter https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S

I got a great deal on some HMEC466s on ebay, but they a were more standard 6-pin lemo with built-in battery pack. Looking at the pin-out, you should be able to make your own battery pack or have a socket put in to hook it up to ship power.

pin out is in the manual for those headsets. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/151043/Sennheiser-Noisegard-Hmdc-322.html?page=31#manual

pin 1 is your DC+ (12-35V according to that manual)
pin 2 is ground
pin 3 is No connect



8 AA battery holder: https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-Standard-Snap-Connector/dp/B000LFRTIK
xlr 3-pin mic extension cable: https://smile.amazon.com/Male-Female-Microphone-Extension-Cable/dp/B006ZQ49UA

could probably cut one end off the mic extension cable, hook it up to the battery pack as the manual indicates. not pretty. not even an on off switch, but might solve it for less than $10

Do you happen to know which terminal/connector are commonly used for batteries? It's not for an SV but for a dirt bike and it's connected to a battery pack