Reddit mentions: The best bike brake levers

We found 161 Reddit comments discussing the best bike brake levers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 67 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever, Black/Silver

    Features:
  • Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever Brake Lever Sunlt Dual Cable for F&r Aly
Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever, Black/Silver
Specs:
Height0.00393700787 Inches
Length2.30314960395 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.3 Pounds
Width1.6141732267 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

2. Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká

    Features:
  • RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set
Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.00393700787 Inches
Length3.149606296 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.5 Pounds
Width1.574803148 Inches
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3. SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black)

    Features:
  • Brake Lever Actuation: Short Pull, Lever Color: Black/Silver, Weight: 129g, Weight: 258g
SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black)
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.5 Inches
Length7.75 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJuly 2010
Weight0.95 Pounds
Width8 Inches
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6. Origin8 Pro Force Road Brake Levers, Compact, Silver/Black

Brake release320g pairSHIMANO Equivalent BL-R400
Origin8 Pro Force Road Brake Levers, Compact, Silver/Black
Specs:
ColorSilver/ Black
Height6 Inches
Length6 Inches
Number of items1
SizeCompact
Weight1 Pounds
Width2 Inches
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8. Cane Creek SCR-5 Aero Brake Levers Black

    Features:
  • Brake Lever Actuation: Short Pull
    Lever Color: Black
    Weight: 267g
Cane Creek SCR-5 Aero Brake Levers Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.25 Inches
Length7.75 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.000625 Pounds
Width5 Inches
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11. Tektro R341 Ergo Brake Levers Black/Black

    Features:
  • R341 Brake Lever Set
Tektro R341 Ergo Brake Levers Black/Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height5.6299212541 Inches
Length8.98818896721 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.25 Pounds
Width5.6299212541 Inches
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12. Tektro RL340 Aero Brake Lever Pair Black by Tektro

RL340
Tektro RL340 Aero Brake Lever Pair Black by Tektro
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.00399999999592 Inches
Length3.3464566895 Inches
Number of items1
SizeDefault
Weight0.5 Pounds
Width2.06692913175 Inches
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13. TRP RRL Alloy Brake Lever Set, Black - RRL AL-B

RRL
TRP RRL Alloy Brake Lever Set, Black - RRL AL-B
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.1259842498 Inches
Length3.44488188625 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.95 Pounds
Width2.1259842498 Inches
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14. Tektro RL520A Linear Pull Bicycle Brake Levers - Black

    Features:
  • Lightweight design
  • Ergonomic lever design
  • Forged aluminum lever
  • For use with linear pull brakes
  • With quick release mechanism
Tektro RL520A Linear Pull Bicycle Brake Levers - Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.1259842498 Inches
Length3.4251968469 Inches
Number of items1
SizeDefault
Weight0.25 Pounds
Width2.1259842498 Inches
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16. Avid FR-5 Bicycle Brake Lever (Silver/Black, Right or Left)

Brake Lever Actuation: Long Pull, Lever Color: Black/Silver, Weight: 77g
Avid FR-5 Bicycle Brake Lever (Silver/Black, Right or Left)
Specs:
ColorSilver/Black
Height1 inches
Length9 inches
Number of items1
Release dateFebruary 2009
Weight0.2 Pounds
Width5 inches
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17. Origin8 Road Aero Bicycle Brake Levers, Standard, Silver/Black

    Features:
  • Brake release
  • 320g pair
  • SHIMANO Equivalent BL-R400
Origin8 Road Aero Bicycle Brake Levers, Standard, Silver/Black
Specs:
ColorSilver/ Black
Height6 Inches
Length6 Inches
Number of items1
SizeStandard
Weight1 Pounds
Width2 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on bike brake levers

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where bike brake levers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 22
Number of comments: 13
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 9
Number of comments: 3
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Total score: 8
Number of comments: 4
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Total score: 7
Number of comments: 3
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Total score: 6
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 5
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Bike Brake Levers:

u/IseeMORONS · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

First of all, I think that's a pretty nice frame. Double butted Tange steel tubing means it should be decently light and strong. Was a middle/higher end bike back in the day. Definitely keep it...it's worth fixing up.

Don't know anything about those tires, but the rest of the purchase looks fine. 28mm tires will "probably" fit, so good luck with that; bikes from that era had a bit more clearance.

You may also want to check if any of the other wear parts need replacement. This is usually the case if the bike sat unused for years: brake cables and housing; derailleur cable and housing; brake pads. After a decade, cable and housing often get gummed up and pads get hard/dry. Getting good brake pads like Kool Stop will make a huge improvement.

With the tires off, scrub the rim braking surface with a brillo pad or something similar, using vodka or rubbing alcohol, whichever is more available.

Check for chain wear with a chain checker (a $5 tool) or measuring with a ruler (google it). If the chain wear is fine and it isn't horrifically corroded with rust, it'll be fine even after 10+ years.

For commuting, I suggest a nice set of generic pedals that are wide, have good bearings, and have good grip. I've had good luck with various Chinese pedals, like this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHHQQHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You didn't post a pic of the actual bike. But if it's got the original levers, the single best thing you can do is to upgrade with modern brake levers which are substantially more ergonomic:

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL340-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B01173986A/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=brake+levers&qid=1565320277&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Alloy-Brake-Lever-Black/dp/B007DCFKE4/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=brake+levers+cane+creek&qid=1565320183&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-18

Yes, there may or may not be other things to overhaul, like bearings and such. But save that for later.

u/dontFightThis · 4 pointsr/xbiking

Thanks! I almost pulled the trigger on a HardRock when I was looking for a 90s MTB frame! HardRocks have such good paint jobs. Can’t wait to see your build.

Re: Helpful build list. While I did a lot of research online, ultimately I got the best suggestions when I was talking to the guys at the LBS. Parts bought at LBS here cost on an average 25-30% more than online but I value their advice a lot so it’s worth it for me. This is my first build so I got a lot of input on how to put the bike together. Shout out to guys at The Peddler Bike Shop in Austin TX!

The Tektro Levers I used are from an older failed Rockhopper conversion. They’re linear pull so they should be fine with V brakes (open to be corrected. They seem to work great for me). They’re Tektro RL520.

If I didn’t have these levers on me, I would most likely have gone with cantis since I love the way they function and look (I was looking for a good looking bike as well).

Hope that helps.

u/autophage · 1 pointr/whichbike

If you know the shop guys, they might do it for free if you bring 'em a six pack. If you buy the brake from a shop, they might install it for you.

Honestly, though, installing brakes is pretty simple - you remove the bolt and washer, slide the pin in through the hole in the fork, and then put the washer and bolt back on. Tighten it down. The rest of it's just getting the cable tension and pad placement right, which you'll need to deal with on your own some day anyway.

The lever, on the other hand, depends on what sort you're going with. There are basically three options (I'm linking Amazon, but that's just because it was easy for me to search; you may find better deals than what I'm linking to, I just want to be clear about the sorts of levers I'm talking about - and furthermore, the ones I link might not even match the bar diameter for the bike in question):

  • Bar-end levers pretty much only work on bullhorns. I believe that some will work fine with chop'n'flop bars and some will not.

  • Road levers will look a bit goofy mounted on bullhorns, but will totally work.

  • Mountain-style levers - be careful that you're picking up some that will fit road bars, and be careful that they have the right amount of "pull" (this will be dependent on the set of brakes that you have).

    If the bike comes with a brake, I'd try mounting that on the front first; if it works, you've saved yourself some money, and if it doesn't, you may gain some knowledge about what in particular you need (possibly, for example, you can get by with just getting a different center pin).
u/JaccoW · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

There are several hubs out there.

Shimano:

  • 3-speed (186% range)
  • 7-speed (244% range)
  • 8-speed (307% range)
    • And this weird disc + coaster brake version (SG-C6061-8CD) which might give you the best of both worlds. It also has Di2 automatic shifting which some people prefer. Price is okay @ €150 however when combined with the rest of the DI2 setup it's probably expensive.

      Sturmey Archer:

  • 2-speed (138% range)
    • Kick shift, so you don't need cables to switch gears. Takes some getting used to.
  • 3-speed (177% range)
  • 5-speed (243% range)

    As for levers, depending on what kind of brakes you are using, you could also look at using 4-fingers levers, designed for drum brakes. It's how early mountain bikers gave themselves extra leverage. Another option might be Sunlite dual brake levers which enable you to control 2 brakes with a single hand. Though that might be unwise in your case.

    ​

    Bike suggestions:

  • Vintage bike: An affordable option would be to look into classic 3-speed bikes (brands and models depends heavily on where you are located) and have a bike shop rebuild a wheel with one of the above hubs. A classic Dutch bike would fit the bill too. One advantage of these bikes is that they are often setup quite well already for commuting and have a more relaxed geometry which makes for a more forgiving or relaxed ride.
  • Hardwearing commuter: Around here we have this bike-leasing company and a friend of mine just got this bike. 7-speed coaster brake, dynamo hub and roller brake on the front. Very practical bike all around!
  • Stylish commuter: Veloretti makes bikes with just a coaster brake (which works fine in the Netherlands) and has some decent customization options. Front brake optional.

    These were just some suggestions as an example, not an endorsement of any of these. Though from what I've seen they are all high quality bikes.
u/uraniumbomb · 1 pointr/bicycling

The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,

This is the bar I'm buying:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMOI6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1J160NEEMK233

I would like these brakes and have it look like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/SfzzbZt3eoI/AAAAAAAAEtI/QeUuDAJQWQU/s400/Bicycle-Brake-Levers-05.jpg

I was looking at these levers:
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_luc_top_sim_02_04_t_lh

But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.

I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.

u/i_am_bokonon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.

Edit:

Levers on amazon for cheaper

These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers

u/doebedoe · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

> everyday for years (including extensively using drops as a messenger), just not a fan of them - I don't enjoy the hand positions nor braking positions. The only time i've ever enjoyed drops is when I ditched the road lever and set up some cross tops.

Sounds to me like your extension may be too great if you find riding and braking from the hoods uncomfortable. Or perhaps you've only been using non-aero levers which don't have as comfy as position to ride on as modern aero levers?

Solutions:

  • A shorter extension stem, and maybe a more upright one. Something like the Kalloy AL-222 may get your bars in a more comfortable position for cheap.
  • Modern aero levers like these.
  • Non-drop bar: I think the Casey's Crazy Bars are a decent option with 23.8mm compatibility.
u/FieUponYourLaw · 1 pointr/bicycling

From one fat guy from another, I wholeheartedly suggest either a flat bar road bike (makes more sense for riding in traffic), a flat bar cyclocross bike, or a STIFF (as in NO suspension) mountain bike with <0.5 inch wide street tires.

Drop bars are good for being more aerodynamic, sure. but unless you put on something like this, you'll probably want to invest in something with a flat bar so you'll have a better field-of-vision while riding in traffic. I use these kinds of levers on my road bike drop bars and it has made all the difference in the world for dealing with Oakland/Berkeley traffic. I haven't had any problems slowing down or stopping while going down hills at 25+mph... not yet anyway (knock on wood!).

I'd suggest staying away from a hybrid. You'll end up having to work harder than you would on a road or cyclocross bike.

Good luck!

/6'0 ~260 pound bicyclist

u/this_shit · 3 pointsr/bikedc

Depends what you're used to riding and where you can store it.

If you can't store it inside, you'll need a 'beater,' meaning a bike that doesn't look appealing to thieves. For most people, the best deal is going to be a 90s "mountain" bike (something like this), which is essentially comparable to a hybrid, but with 26" wheels. It's a slower-riding bike, but with the advantage of better brakes, a more upright riding position, and thicker tires for fewer flats.

If you're used to riding faster road bikes, I'd get an 80s/90s road bike (something like this), and add cross-style brakes to it (i.e., a 2nd set of brake levers on the tops of the handlebars that let you brake while riding upright in traffic).

If you can lock your bike up indoors and/or want a faster bike, a newer hybrid or road bike is fine.

u/_Dale_Gribble · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Nice! I bought a Le Tour III for $50 and sold it for $100.

The absolute best upgrade you can do: Aero brake levers (Tektro R100 is what I got). You can route the cables under the bar tape. Makes it look and feel MUCH better.

I really miss my Le Tour. Have fun with yours!

u/DonOblivious · 2 pointsr/cycling

You'll want a shorter stem, but probably one with as much height. Tektro RL-340 (RL341 if you aren't a fucking 6ft+ giant), Shimano BL-R400, Cane Creek SCR-5 Brake Lever.

The stem you choose not only has to fit the clamping diameter of the bars you choose, it must also be the right length and rise to fit your bars.

It's probably easier to pick out a set of drop bars and buy the appropriate stem. Bars require a certain clamp diameter on the stem, so buy the bar first, then find the stem that's the right length with the right clamp diameter. Bars have different inherent reach, so you need to include that reach in your calculation of total reach (frame + stem + bar) before you can buy a stem.

Nobody can tell you every component to buy to make your bike do what you want. There are too many variables.

u/Sergisimo1 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Suicide levers are the extensions that let you brake from other places besides the hoods or drops. There is a possibility of the levers impeding you from applying the brakes fully if something isn't adjusted correctly, but really they just look tacky. Aero levers allow you to hide the brake cables underneath the bar tape for a nicer look, while also reducing wind drag (hence the "aero"). Aero levers also give a bit more mechanical advantage and make the hood position more comfortable. It really is just personal preference but it has it's advantages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AO5GVE (You would need to buy the rubber hoods for these)

u/c0nsumer · 3 pointsr/bicycling

A guy on our local forum lost a couple fingers on one hand, so he went to a lever that pulls both the front and rear mechanical brakes using a lever like this. I guess it works out pretty well for him and is better than the option of only having one brake.

The thread on it can be found here: brake levers for a cripple?

u/Gnascher · 3 pointsr/cycling

>Are they easy to fit?

Here's all you need to know!

They are fairly easy to install. You'll need a pair of cable cutters to snip the housing. Worth the investment to pick up a decent pair of bicycle cable cutters, as cables are a wear item, and a service you can easily learn to do yourself.

u/iamfreakingdeaf · 1 pointr/bikewrench

This is the #1 thing I am considering doing. However, the tektro set for $20 is apparently too large to fit on my handlebar? So I am considering this one, http://amzn.com/B000BMRPTQ , since it seem to fit better based on the review.

Just have to find some way to free up enough $$$ to pay for it. (hate being on a shoestring budget, sigh...)

u/thogervo · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I have mine on the ends, as I spend the most time in that position and I live in a sort of hilly place that requires a bit of braking.

Aesthetically, placing them next to the stem is the best way to go, plus it's a little easier to mount and feed the cable through.

If you do decide to mount the levers on the ends, I reccommend the Cane Creek 200TT levers. Be warned however, they use mountainbike "barrel style" brake cables.

Happy riding!

u/bikeRetard · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Thanks for the reply.

The pads are hardened so I'll replace those. One of the levers is cracked and I feel like I have to use a lot of force to engage the brakes with the levers. They also have suicide levers on them so I would really like to at least replace the levers. Would the excessive squeezing be a problem with the levers or the cables? Anyway, levers like these or these would be what I'm looking for, correct?

Thanks for identifying the shifters. I'll probably go with bar-ends. When looking for a pair should I specifically be looking for 5-speed shifters?

u/p4lm3r · 2 pointsr/Vintage_bicycles

I have these Cane Creek levers on a bike and love em. Nice broad top surface, which eases out the pressure.

u/thegreybush · 3 pointsr/DIY

Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.

As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.

u/Digitizkilla · 1 pointr/bikewrench

These Levers allow you to adjust the pull. I read a lot of good things about them and decided to buy them because they're a relatively cheap upgrade, and I was really impressed. especially because you can adjust them while you are riding.

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bicycling

SRAM S500s are a little more expensive, but a great choice for those who prefer the feel of SRAM hoods.

u/_JakeVW_ · 2 pointsr/cycling

Check out the Cane Creek Crosstop levers- I'm running them on my single speed and they are great. I think they will work better for your bike than MTB brake levers since they are angled a little differently

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Crosstop-Alloy-Levers/dp/B001JI8SKG?th=1&psc=1

u/imjusthereforab · 2 pointsr/bicycling

pretty much. They give you the drop bar hoods and ramps positions, and they're slightly cheaper to convert to.

Consider something like these TT levers as a cheap brake lever swap. Depending on how your shifter(s) is/are set up, that might take some more finagling.

I converted an old rigid mtb to a bullhorn commuter and rode it happily for years.

u/upthelolpunks · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I think that if quantum_spintronic is going to go through the hassle of fixing their brake levers, they might as well replace them with modern, internally routed levers. They'll brake stronger, and these aren't that expensive, and and are probably in better condition than the levers currently installed.

u/Haloosinayeshun · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Perhaps Tektro or Dia Compe. I've used Tektro in the past, they're great.

Edit: I've used both of these on different bikes

Velo Orange also sells a pair I've used on Nitto Northroad bars: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-inverse-brake-levers-22-2.html

Tektro: I use these on bullhorn bars like pictured in OP photo: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Levers/dp/B001CJX4WO/191-0082638-2564130?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

u/BlackDebbie · 1 pointr/bicycling

I agree. Riding the hoods is where I like to be.

Though I like the Shimano BL-R400's in that price range.

If someone can tell me how the 600's are any different I'm all ears.


u/nakedavenger2222 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.

I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R7QCCbEW9CR37 )

Have fun!

u/raygundan · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

They make little in-line brake levers (sometimes called "cross levers") that you can add to a drop-bar road bike so that you can access the brakes from aerobars or some other position. Essentially, you cut the cable and install them in the middle of it, so both the original lever and the new little lever can pull on the brake cable.

That might give you some flexibility in placement and reach, although it doesn't help when riding with your hands on the hoods. You could put them on the horizontal top part of the bars, and use that as your "relaxed" riding position. Something like this. Or somewhere else entirely, if you can think of a better placement-- the nice thing about those is the flexibility.

Shimano also used to make a set of short-reach STI levers that we put on my wife's road bike (more than ten years ago) for similar reasons-- but I'm not sure if they still make those now that the normal levers can be adjusted directly as /u/sitdownrando-r points out. Nor am I entirely sure they'd address your problem, since it's just the hood height that's the problem, not the reach from the drops.

Edit: A spendier option occurred to me: the new electronic shifters allow you to add little shift "buttons" wherever you want. If you used those to shift instead of combined brake-shift levers, you could then go find a brake-only lever option that fit your hands better. This is probably both complicated AND expensive, though.

u/oxfordcomma · 1 pointr/bicycling

On cheaper bikes decals can be pretty low-tech, and cheaper bike-boom Centurions are not bad unless you buy bikes for the decals.

Not so much fixing, but there are things to check out. I would spin the wheels and see if they roll smoothly, turn the fork to see if the headset is okay, same with the cranks and bottom bracket. Most likely I bet the headset and bottom bracket are fine, but wheels get a lot of weather and road mess thrown at them and I bet the hubs need an overhaul.

If it were me, and I were doing all the work myself, I would replace all of the cables for shifters and brakes. I might also consider getting new brake handles, but that is just my preference.

I like these http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Road-Brake-Levers-Compact/dp/B000AO5GVE

u/hatlesssniper · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Uh, I believe you just get the normal like this. Then you get an interrupter lever like this, and boom. Levers in both places. Not claiming to be smarter than anyone. Just surprised no one had suggested it. You don't have to get the levers I listed, just the same "type" I guess.

u/alex9001 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Perusing SRAM's website the main benefit they tout is being able to shift both sets of gears with the same shifter.

I feel like it wouldn't be that difficult to just make a shifter that could shift both a regular FD and RD though...similar to those dual brake levers although a dual shifter would need 2 separate mechanisms.

u/mindsound · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Adjusting the brake levers entirely depends on the model of lever. There's no generic way to adjust reach and if they're simple levers there is probably no adjustment mechanism. However, she can replace them with a nice pair of "short reach" levers for pretty cheap, these Cane Creek ones are $30-40.

Regarding the front tire... could be 27", 26", 650B... just depends. An LBS could definitely figure it out and order a replacement. I'd do it through an LBS because if they order the wrong thing they'll make it right. :)

u/aoris · 1 pointr/Vintage_bicycles

Sure you can.

If you opt for the older non "aero" brake levers, so they're called, you will only have to undo the bar tape from the bottom to the lever mounts. There's likely a bolt, 5mm, that you access from the front of the lever. You may need to push the cable out of the way to access it.

If you're going down this road, I recommend undoing all the bar tape and going for the so-called aero brake levers, which often feature levers that "blade" outward, so that you can more easily access them from the sides of the drops, but more importantly, are generally much larger and vastly more comfortable to hold. The cables are routed internally, under the bar tape, rather than on the outside.

Here are some models:

  • cheap: Tektro RL340
  • with modern flat hood angle: TRP RRL
  • fancier: SRAM S500

    TRP and Tektro make many other varieties to fit your brake cable pull needs, etc.

    EDIT: some more things I thought of, plus added (non-affiliate) links above.

    You can replace with non-aero brake levers (so called, because the cable is routed externally), or just replace the hood (grippy part). It will cost you the least effort.

    The aero brake levers do have other advantages I forgot to mention:
  • quick-release: when changing out a flat, you should disable rim brakes to spread them, in order to more easily drop the wheel out. While many rim brakes feature quick releases (/u/Synchillas , yours do, by the way), you can add even more quick-release at the brake lever. The RL340s & the TRP RRLs, I know for a fact, have pins that limit their travel. Simply push them to the other position & your brakes will open even more.
  • return spring: May be an advantage or not. Even in the absence of cable tension, at least the RL340 levers will return to their original, not-activated position. It's neater & prevents the lever from rattling if your brake cable tension is inadequate. Note many, if not all modern brifter units do this. However, some may rightly argue that it's more obvious that your cable tension is (unsafely) inadequate if there is no return spring, since you'll readily see the lever being all floppy, before you pull the brake.

    I do hate the fact that the fixing bolt (5 mm hex) is obscured by the brake cable in many brake levers. This is a nuisance if you ever want to just fine-adjust the position of the brake levers, or after a crash & they got bent.

    Shimano & SRAM fixed this by relocating the bolt outside. I'm not sure if this is the case with the SRAM S500 levers, but I suspect it would be.

    Furthermore, if you come across dysfunctional brifters (shift + brake combos, AKA STI), you can trivially substitute them in & just use the brake function, which should never have issues. I've done this a few times & occasionally your LBSes will discard these brifters, leaving you with a free pair of brake levers. Sometimes they are much nicer than dedicated brake levers.

    Here is a short review of the TRP RRL levers. The user does a comparison with the non-aero variety you have, & explains the use of the shim which gives a more modern (IMO significantly more comfortable) flat transition from bar to hood.
u/theguth · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Your 'turkey legs' are the older road bike brakes with the 'suicide levers' that curve around so they are reachable from the flat section of your drop bars, yes? in that case, No, you cannot install v-brakes, they require your frame to have canti studs to mount them to. Your frame likely does not have these. You can greatly increase your braking power with a set of dual-pivot caliper brakes (likely long-reach model is necessary), a newer set of levers can help power and comfort greatly as well.

u/captcanti · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Since you mentioned suicide levers, you can easily add Crosstop levers. They work great and are easily installed.

u/Big-Pond · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can probably find plenty of turkey lever equipped bikes at your local dump (assuming yours allows for donation) if you want to go vintage.
Otherwise, the modern equivalent is called a “cross brake” or sometimes a cross lever. They are commonly used in cyclocross and are more hardy and effective than in the old days,

There is a model to fit every budget but here’s a cheap one
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL720-Cross-Brake-Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0

u/roburrito · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Time Trial Levers. The Tektro RX 4.1 is my favorite.

u/eobanb · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Seems like an absurdly clunky and expensive ($300!?) device that doesn't appear to do anything that existing levers that pull two cables don't already do. For $13.

u/zair33ka · 1 pointr/bicycling

These were awesome for my flop n chop bullhorns.

u/mnimalst · 6 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

These work great for these types of bars and are dirt cheap.

u/mylifehasvalue · 1 pointr/bicycling

Actually I think those levers might have a smaller diameter because they're made for aero bars... not sure. But these look good:
tektro bar end reverse brakes, Dia Compe

u/dohaqatar7 · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

You can improve things a little bit by sliding the saddle forward a bit. It's not a lot and you have to be careful that you don't go past any limit marks that might be on the rails.

You could get a major improvement by installing some interrupter levers (not a specific recommendation, just the first link on google). The installation will be a bit of a project but, it will let you brake comfortably from the flats. If you know how to replace a brake cable, installing interrupters should be trivial.

A much more major project would be swapping drop bars to flats. Since you've got down tube shifters rather than brifters, this wouldn't be too expensive all things considered but, still not particularly cheap.

u/breezy_anus · 1 pointr/cyclocross

I ran mini-v's over the last winter for what you describe. They were more powerful for the late summer (dry) single track rides but I found that the mud/grit/salt in my area was prone to getting stuck between the pads and rim/tires which made terrible noises, reduced my braking, and eroded ... everything. I'm going back to wide cantis for the rough weather. Discs would probably be the best for single track but might be overkill for anything less.

Try out different brake levers before you buy. I switched from these to these and think that was a bigger upgrade than switching from cantis to mini-v's.

u/gbacon13 · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I want to put bullhorns on my Specialized Sirrus SS. Does that make sense for the geometry? Also I would want to put the tektro rx4.1 levers on the ends. Would that work with my v-brakes?

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sirrus-single-speed-mens-spec/p/173615?color=271962-173615

Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RyFDbNPB1V6Z

u/streakybacon · 1 pointr/bicycling

I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.

u/squiresuzuki · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Protip: Next time, run the brake cable along the bottom of the handlebar all the way to the stem, securing it with electrical tape. Then, put your bar tape over that. It looks clean as hell.

PS. I also recommend these time-trial brake levers, they plug into the end of the bar instead of strapping around it.

u/nearlyclever · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I regularly (for a decade or so) see a 1-armed bicyclist on my commute, he's going the opposite direction so we've never spoken. Guy in his mid 40s; he rides a bike with no obvious mods.

One thing that you'll definitely want to do-- there are a variety of brake levers available that actuate both brakes from a single lever-- this is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16

u/Ultimate_everything · 3 pointsr/bicycling

THESE will work just fine for ya. They also have a quick adjuster on them for setting the lever distance from the bars.

u/SNOne · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

When you check amazon for these levers it also lists what other people have bought with these levers.

You could try to buy one of those, or contact a webshop/lbs regarding the inner diameter.

u/Camelope · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Yeah I got some http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS on sale and I had to buy barrel-ended brake cables and housing to run them through. It's not an entirely complicated process, but it is a bit of work. I liked my bullhorns but now I'm switching back to the drops that came on it / my new track drops just to spice things up. Fixed/track/singlespeed bikes are all very simple to maintain, so it's not too hard to learn to work on it if you don't mind getting your hands dirty from time to time.

u/handfulsofshite · 4 pointsr/bicycling

these shimano road levers should match the build aesthetic and have enough reach. i run them angled on a porteur bar, similar to how you'd be using them here. you could also consider a city syle lever.

edit - here's the shimanos on my bike

u/theplayerpiano · 1 pointr/bicycling

Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?

u/tonetookrazy · 2 pointsr/MTB
u/takeshita_kenji · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you find yourself there a lot, there are brake levers that mount on the ends. I'm planning on getting a set of those once I convert a used single-speed I have to bullhorn bars.

u/MyElectricCity · 3 pointsr/ebikes

There are double pull brake levers. I had one on my old gas bicycle conversion, because you need a brake lever for the clutch, and having 3 levers is a hassle.

u/jzwinck · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

OK, here's what you need:

u/samvegg · 0 pointsr/bicycling
u/geronimo2000 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use cane creek TT200 with cantilevers and have no issues

u/brotherbock · 1 pointr/cycling

Can you fix the problem by adjusting the brakes in closer to the rim? (Apologies if they're set right, just covering bases and not knowing what your knowledge level is at.)

If not...

SRAM makes adjustable levers, I know: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-s-990-aero-brake-lever


Have you thought of using a Travel Agent? Not sure if it can be made to work with cantis.

These Cane Creek levers claim to work with cantis and calipers, so they may be longer...?

u/askoshbetter · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Oh yeah, no worries. They’re called “brake levers for drop bar handle bars”. These are the specific ones I got an amazon. SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5LLWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1qGxDbM1TY53M

To not though, these are just brake levers and have NO shifting capabilities since this is a single speed bike.