Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.

The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.

The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.

My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.

Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.

Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.

Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.

Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.

Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.

You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.

As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.

All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike

Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.

I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1033658_-1_400213__400213

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1184245_-1_400213__400213

The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.

Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:

http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3

Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SUNRACE-SHIFTER-HB-BAREND-SLR96/dp/B00JVK5ZLY/

So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.

Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.

> The ideal scenario is to have a big club where you can find a group that goes at the pace you want, but in most places your options will be limited. Perhaps start by practicing your group riding skills with a slow group, then go with a fast group and accept that you might get dropped.
The average guy on a Saturday or Sunday morning doesn't care about the gender makeup of the group but does want to get a good workout. They won't mind if they have to wait for you for a few minutes after designated sprints, but if you can't keep up at a normal cruising pace then it's better to wave goodbye.

Oh, totally! I completely understand that. There are some bike shops that have group rides of various levels, but that's about it. Not too many clubs (other than casual ones) around here that I've been able to scope out. But, maybe I'll check out the casual ones to learn some etiquette-- that sounds like a good idea!

>Consider getting started on clipless soon, since clipping in and out quickly is a key group riding skill. Other than that, all you really need is the equipment to repair a puncture (bring a spare tube, not just glue and patches) and the right clothes, including gloves and glasses.

Rodger that! I'll probably get clipless in a month or so. Do you have an opinion on THESE? I want to have the option of using my bike to commute-- so I don't want to commit solely to clipless.

>Sounds like you're on the right track. See if you can bump up to 3 days per week training as this will really help. And if you're only doing short workouts make them count. Towards the end of winter you should be doing some tough interval sessions.
When you have an opportunity to race in the spring, just dive in. Crits are great fun if you can keep your cool when people are riding very close to you. Don't worry about poor results at the beginning.
Women's racing often has small fields or mixed fields, so a lot of races break up. Just keep hammering away.
And if you get a chance, have a go at individual time trialling. It's either the most boring form of racing or the truest, depending on your philosophy on life.

Yeah! I think they have open studio time, so I'm hoping to get in a 3rd training session during the week by myself (I just don't have the cash at the moment to pay for the 3x/week program ;( And biking outside isn't an option here in the winter-- though if the weather holds up like how its been: We might skip winter entirely!)

Re: Racing-- Oh I plan to! The first one is in April, so I'm planning on doing one per weekend (if possible), before the BIG tour comes in June. Provided I finish all of the races I participate in, I think I'd be able to compete in those as a Cat 4!

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

I don't do enduro's but I do a lot of remote mountain riding. Generally I try to carry as little as possible, about what you list for rides near the road. If i'm somewhere remote i'll pack like a climber or hiker and bring some light weight variant of "the 10 essentials" so I won't die if I get lost or injured.

Extra clothes take up a lot of space for not much weight. I often like to carry a warm layer like a patagonia nano puff pullover and a wind shell to wear on long descents. I figure these are my "maybe i won't freeze to death if I injure myself and have to spend the night out layer" and their also nice if you decide to take a lunch break on a windy ridge or something.

Your repair kit looks pretty good you could get one of these and maybe some chamois butter.

Maybe a non CO2 (ie reusable) pump like a leyzene alloy drive (high volume hand pump that might be able to set a tubless tire). This lets you both deal with multiple flats and adjust tire pressure for different surfaces.

Maybe a half used roll of athletic tape (ie minimalist first aid kit).

A couple of spare energy bars and tablets for water purification are also nice if you're going somewhere remote.

A sunglass case with swappable lenses for your glasses or a pair of clear/light glasses+ normal sunglasses is also nice for variable light.

A light headlamp like a petzl tika is nice 'just in case.'

Here's a Sheldon Brown Tom Deakins article about handlebars and hand positions. You should definitely read it!

I can only ride a bike with a straight bar for 15 miles or so without serious discomfort in my hands due to a lack of different hand positions. 20 miles becomes crippling pain.

Some people with the same problem have had great success with ergonomic grips similar to these

Others like some type of bar ends like these so they have variable hand positions. I have something like these on my mountain/beater bike with straight handlebars and they help maintain my comfort level tremendously when on that bike.

Some people really love trekking bars since they offer many hand positions and usually work well with the shifter and brake-lever components that come on bikes with straight bars, so the cost of changing things is minimal compared to changing to something like drop bars that usually need different shifters and brake levers.

For what it's worth, once I went to drop handlebars (i.e. "the kind that curl around") I haven't had a single problem, and I can now ride all day without any hand discomfort.

Hello! This is my second year bike commuting and I love it! The coldest days of the year in Baltimore look around -15C so it shouldn't be too bad! Things I use/suggest are the following

​

For you:

Bike helmet cover, something like this to keep in the warmth, but doesnt get too hot

Pair of ski goggles

Gloves

Buff

A pair of cycling only outdoor pants to wear as 'ski pants' over your regular pants like these

Wool socks (Costco has great merino wool ones)

​

For the bike:

Fenders

A nice set of lights like these

Bar mitts like these

​

And just make sure you keep up with cleaning the salt and grime off your bike!

​

Good luck!

These are my pedals of choice and are going on my new bike. Great for all kinds of shoes. I don't ride too far, but apparently people have toured the US with them, so long term comfort must be pretty good. :D

I wear street shoes, dress shoes, Rotes, Allbirds, sneakers. As long as the shoe stays on my foot well, this pedal works great.

I have these on my newly renovated backup bike, they are my old pedals. These are OK. I do not like them as much as the Lambda pedals. But they are good for street shoes, and work well. Just not great with soft soled shoes for distances over 2 miles like the Lambdas.

Lots of us commuters use SPD shoes and pedals. You don't have to, but they're pretty nice. The shoes you'll have to check out for yourself as every foot is different, but I would recommend the Shimano M520 as a great and cheap starter pedal.

I'm not a big fan of campus pedals (one side flat, other side clip), but some folks are. If you really want the best of both worlds I think you'll be better off with something like the Shimano M424.

Thanks for your reply, I ended up going to REI, but ultimately, got my deals online.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SBN2JE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the shoes. I got a 44, which was a tiny bit small, but ultimately work well so far.

and I went with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YB31II/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with the SPDs because I like the ability to walk easier. As a solo rider around town, I feel the ability to not have to carry a spare set of shoes around pretty valuable to me.

I love them and dont know how I cycled before without them. I've also only forgotten to unclip once, but I saved myself before falling completely over.

I'm in Pittsburgh, which has less snow, but plenty of cold. For that part, it's a matter of finding the right combination of layers for your cold needs and covering exposed skin. I wear generic-brand buffs over my ears and face, and then good windproof gloves under a set of barmitts. And then I have a commute with plenty of hills to help me warm up. When everything is right, I've been pretty comfortable riding down to about 0-5F.

Falling snow isn't so much of an issue except that I will add clear goggles, otherwise going downhill will involve thousands of little pieces of ice jabbing into your eyes, which sucks. Fresh snow on the ground, up to an inch or so, is usually fine, but will make pedaling a little harder. Packed snow will make it much harder, but doesn't really hurt traction much so it's usually ok, until you find ice.

Ice on the ground is more challenging, and occasionally will make me sit a day out. However, my rule of thumb is that if the streets are plowed enough for cars to drive, then they are clear enough for me to ride, and that's the case way more frequently than not (in my city). If there is too much ice for that, then I don't trust ANYBODY out there and I'd rather walk/bus/stay home. Other options to deal with ice include getting studded tires or something with bigger tires (I have friends who commute on fatbike in the winter).

The final issue is that winter weather will play havoc on your bike's moving parts. You'll want to get it cleaned and lubed WAY more frequently than in the summer, especially if you get snow/ice on your chain.

That’s a great bike and should be well suited for what you want to do. After several years loving our FX4 Sports, my wife and I wanted to go to drop bars to ride further more comfortably, and just upgraded to a Domane SL6, and a Checkpoint SL5. The bike you’re looking at is directly comparable to the Checkpoint: 105 drivetrain, carbon frame with single iso speed. It’s a great frame and solid component set. My only negative on our FXs was the tires: stock were 28s, and I always felt they were a little narrow for my comfort, but with caliper brakes, I never switched them out, although they’re pretty worn now and I will bump them to something fatter. The Domane came with 32s that the guy I got it from had upgraded to Hard case AW3s. Much more solid feeling width. Durability wise too early to tell. I also switched them up for 35s to run gravel. The Checkpoint runs 40s and they feel great. If you are changing the tires anyway, I’d personally go as wide as the frame will take if you are riding rough pavement.

EDIT: for pedals, the Domane came with these Platform Pedals that the previous owner installed, and I like them. I also have some Chester Race Face pedals on a mountain bike that are good, and some Shimanos that have platform on one side reversible with clipless. As for other upgrades, a really good lock, that bike is going to draw a lot of unwanted attention.

Two sets of whatever clothes you wear whilst riding. Wool socks.

Wet weather gear, at least a waterproof shell for your top.

One set of civilian/camp clothes. I like slip-on shoes like Sanuks, but whatever floats your boat. I hear flip-flops are popular.

Tools. Allen wrenches and small fixed wrenches for anything you might have to adjust immediately (brakes, fenders, racks, derailleurs, etc). A flathead and a #2 phillips screwdriver, or a multitool with those. Tire levers, patch kit, pump/CO2. Tire boot maybe? I've never needed one, but they seem useful. Spoke wrench, replacement spokes or a one of these sweet things, anything else relevant to your setup for on-road fixes.

Tent/shelter, groundcloth, sleeping bag. Sleeping pad?

Fuel bottle, stove, water pot, spoon. Water filter? I like bringing chopsticks, they're small and help flip things while cooking, but pocket rockets are more for boiling than cooking, right? I don't really know.

Camera. Notebook and pencil. E-reader or book maybe. Soap and a toothbrush.

Try to pack less than you need and pick up things on the way. Better to save the weight.

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

Swapping pedals isn’t difficult, but would definitely be a tedious chore to do on a regular basis. One of the first things I did when I got my bike this past weekend was swap the pedals out for some Shimano SPD-SL pedals. They’re not very expensive and work great on the bike, but your mileage may vary.

As with all bike components there is a strong correlation between weight and price, the lighter an item the more it costs. If you decide to go the pedal route, don’t buy something top of the line. The weight doesn’t matter on a stationary bike like it does in an Ironman.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Here’s a link to those pedals if you’re interested:

Shimano SPD-SL PD R-540 - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P9TOHQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

I commute by bike through the winter this will be the 4 year. My ride is short, only 2 miles.

These are awesome, https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Bar-Mitts-Small-Medium/dp/B009F9ZQH4/
when it gets real cold you can put a pair of light weight gloves on under them. But above ~15 F the bar mitts are enough.

Because I have such a short ride I haven't had to worry about venting much but I've taken a few longer winter rides and have had to remove layers. This year I'm thinking of getting better gear. I went the cheep route on rain gear and I don't really love it... but it works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMOZQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006IOMAL4

The jacket is fine but doesn't have pockets. The pants cut to large for cycling. I also have decided that I really don't like the black for visibility reasons. They do keep me dry.

I've been using a pair of safety glasses from lowes as a windscreen. They work fine, gets foggy sometimes.
I need a better solution for my feet.
I don't have showers at work and it's nice to not have to change and carry extra stuff.
When it gets real cold keeping my face from being exposed has been an issue.
I've used a balaclava and a scarf on top of that.
I have had ski goggles fog up.
Thanks for your post got me thinking about it all again. I really need to buys some better gear this year.
Keep your feet dry.

I will never ride anything other than my Brooks B 17 again, it's just as good as everyone says it is. I prefer it to the spring models, less squishy and I found it astonishingly comfortable from day one. I have mine on my singlespeed road bike and find it works fine for a mix of relaxed and sporty seating position like I'd expect you to use while hauling a trailer. I'd say the 88$ Amazon calls up for the black model would be well worth it considering the comfort and longevity factor. I have also made good experiences with this Selle Royal if you want half that price for a pretty good saddle.

I have a set of Shimano PD-A530 on my Salsa Vaya that I use daily for commuting (platform) and longer rides on the weekend (SPD).

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376967521&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+pd-a530

I really like them, they have not failed me after 2000 miles and are a solid feeling pedal. Even though they do not have the more 'spikey' surface on the platform side I have yet to have my feet slide off even in the wet. It may be a smidge out of your price range, but honestly it was for me as well, but I do not regret it one bit!

The big thing to keep in mind with dual pedals is will you be able to easily flip them to the side you need. With the A530s the SPD side is always on top in it's equilibrium position which means I don't have to look down to find the side I want. I just reach for the pedal with my foot and either clip in, or flip the back of it forward to get to the platform side.

Personally I think the design of the pedals you are looking at would make it really hard to determine which side of the pedal you are on. But, just like everything if you get used to it I'm sure it will work great. It all comes down to personal preference I guess!

Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.

As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.

It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SY7J6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I absolutely love them. I put off ordering BarMitts for so long because they are so expensive, but I found these and they are much more reasonably priced. They do a great job of keeping my hands warm. This morning it was 43F and I was wearing my lightest gloves and my hands were fine.

It is still pretty easy to shift, but you have to do it totally by feel because you can't see what you are doing (obviously). That said my commute is pretty flat, and with the electric assist, I don't change gears very often, so YMMV.

Throwing in my 2 cents. Everyone has their opinion on what is better so this should be taken as what I have learned with trial and error.

​

I use SPD clips with Shimano PD-M647. The outer cage acts as a flat so that I can alternate if needed (I rarely use them now). This was especially good for starting out. The resistance can be adjusted so you get used to clipping out, adding resistance as needed.

​

Buy a shoe with a rigid sole, I started with a pair of specialized tahoe and it had so much flex that every time I tried to unclip, my foot would move but not the shoe, resulting in a fall. I since switched to Shimano ME2 and they're way better. I'm sure there are better shoes out there. but these work well for me.

​

There are 2 types of SPD cleats, one way (SM-MH51) and multi-directional (SM-MH56). I would advise to use the multi-directional as it is easier to get the hang of.

​

Unclip early before you stop, most falling happens mostly at slow speeds. For me its mostly during a climb or trying to get over a rock where I lose speed or the wheel slips, as long as you're moving it's tougher to fall, because physics.

​

I would say that if you like to send it over jumps and you bail a lot, you may not want to use clipless. There's a reason people use flats, and that's one of them. Small jumps aren't a problem for me but I'm not doing transfers or big stuff.

​

There's a learning curve to going clipless. The more you do it, the more it becomes second nature. Good luck!

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

I am a girl, have a Giant Avail Composite, size 9, bike recrectionally/exercise and long distance so we are similar :) I opted for SPD shoes which you typically use for mountain biking and spinning but I like that versatility. These are them in a size 41 since they are european sizes You are able to walk fine in them as the clips are recessed. I found road bike shoes + pedals to be very specific and the lighter the weight the more expensive bc of carbon and people use those for racing which wasn't for me just yet.

I was told by my LBS that this wasn't unusual that I opted for non road bike pedals & spd shoes to start. I like that I can clip into my Trek mountain bike too and also take them for spinning in the winter. Win- win in my book :)

These are my pedals but I got them from my LBS:9 I may upgrade to clips on both sides as I advance but for now these allow me to clip-out at stop signs and hold my feet on a little platform so that I don't get hurt when stop then crossing.

I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!

You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.

five tens are almost unanimously seen as the best shoe for mountain biking since they use soft, grippy rubber, but they can be pretty pricey compared to a pair of vans's skate shoes which still offer pretty decent grip.

make sure you have some nice grippy aftermarket pedals though- that's even more important. most pedals that come on bikes are plastic and offer very little grip, you want something more like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK

or this

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/nukeproof-proton-flat-pedals/rp-prod85866

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

I recently picked up some SPD pedals (these specifically) and absolutely love them. Two things to make sure of from my experience:

1. Make sure you get shoes that fit you perfectly. It took me a few different types of shoes and a few sizes to find the ones that work well for me.
   
   
2. PRACTICE CLIPPING AND UNCLIPPING BEFORE YOU GO RIDING! It'll only take a few embarassing tip overs to figure out what you're doing, but you can save those by spending 10-15 minutes holding on to a fence post or something repeatedly clipping in and out.
   
   I love them, and I find that I'm more willing to take on sketchier terrain. Plus I feel like I could jump over a house now. So there's that.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

So, they're called saddles because unless you're riding leisurely around most of your weight should be on your feet. But, it will still be uncomfortable on a road bike seat so you must wear padding. This is a main reason why you see all cyclists on the road wearing a kit. Also you just get used to it. Now, when I ride a bike in my everyday clothes I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HZA918/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498798548&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=brooks+b17&psc=1

It seems backwards at first but you can spread your weight better without all the padding, which on long rides will be less comfortable. Being fit to your bike and having it adjusted properly is very important. Good luck.

I love the 7.2 FX, it was my primary bike for about a year - a real "do everything" machine.

as you approach 30-40 mile rides, the seat gives you "hotspots", the grips give you blisters, the tires wear out after maybe 1200 miles, and the original eggbeater pedals squeek & fall apart.

I've yet to actually go clipless on my road bike (I know, I know), so I can't speak about that, but if distance is your primary goal then padded shorts, a new saddle, ergon grips, riding gloves & better tires are things I bought first, and I'd do it that way again. If performance is your primary goal or you already have those things, then yes - the next upgrade I would have made myself would have been the pedals.

I got 50-60 mile rides out of the 7.2 without clipless pedals, but that was mostly brute force rather than equipment. I don't mean to be a jerk, but honestly - it isn't a bike made for very very long distance. The 150-250 a good set of clipless pedals and shoes cost you can put you well on your way to a decent road bike much more comfortable on long distance rides. Don't worry, there are still plenty of excuses to go back to the FX for various riding. Just my experience, personally.


I picked myself up a pair of Shimono PD-R540's off Amazon before my morning ride just today - about 1/2 the price of the two LBS's I checked.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1335742964&sr=1-1

>I have one glaring question. How bad are these center pull brakes?

​

Those are cantilever brakes. Similar, but diffferent.

If they are perfectly adjusted and properly setup then they are fine. But they are finicky and complicated with lots of variables and parts.

>I've been riding for about 9 years regularly and in my experience they are fine, just standard bike brakes. But, turns out I don't know everything. I didn't know if they are somehow substatially worse than modern rim brakes.

They can have really really good performance, but it's not likely they get setup properly. The only really really really bad thing about them is if the brake cable from the 'V' to the brake levers break then that 'V' can fall down and get caught on knobby tires, which can catapult a rider over the handle bars. This is why it's important on these style of brakes to keep the reflectors or use a fender.. this way something is in the way to catch a failed brake cable.

------------

Shimano-style V-brakes, also known as Linear pull brakes use the same studs and are a cheap swap-in upgrade. You need to swap out the levers to match as well. Much easier to setup, much easier to maintain. Since there are much less variables to consider then it's a lot easier to keep them working at peak performance. Theoretically cantilever brakes can be setup to brake harder, but they are still pretty dumb.

Old cantilever/center pull brakes would get swapped out immediately on any bike I own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyVtWzeuBA

You can find everything you need on Amazon. Tektro and Shimano are the desirable brands to look at for these types of brakes. Front and rear + brake levers + brake cables should come out to 50-70 dollars.

For the brake pads a nice upgrade over stock ones are https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

Pedal: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WYAENC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395772017&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

There are other options, but those are the most common, they're cheap, and use the same cleats as the bikes at spin class. You can always upgrade later if you find a reason not to like these; pedals usually come with cleats and most or all MTB cleats use the same 2 bolt mount so they will work with your MTB shoes.

Shoes: go to LBS and try some on. All MTB shoes should be good for walking, but different brands fit differently. Or order online from somewhere with free returns in case they don't fit; the Shimano M-088 are a good start, I love the ratchet buckle.

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

For people new to clipless I like to recommend mountainbike SPD pedals and for them to use the SH-56 multi-release cleat. They pop out with your foot simply twisting, just angle your ankle slightly and they'll release. It's nearly as easy to unclip them as it is to take your foot off a platform pedal.

As a bonus they help you work on your technique since you need to focus on keeping your feet properly on the pedal but you get the benefits of clipless when you need it. Plus MTB shoes are easy to walk in.

After you get used to the multi-release cleat you can switch to the standard cleat which requires rotating your foot. Then eventually you can make your way to road clipless SPD-SL's or Look.

As for getting started, you should clip in your right foot and be ready to go. Don't worry about clipping in your left foot, just pedal to you can focus on clipping in and then do it. With clipless you only need one leg to propel the bike ;)

Personally i like the M-530s better. Especially for a first time clipless rider. While they may be a tad heavier, they have more of a platform. This comes in super handy in many "oh shit" scenarios and in regular use. The 520s can flip over easily when trying to clip in, and especially getting started in a technical section or an uphill, that can be frustrating as hell. The outer platform of the 530s prevents them from rolling or flipping. Also if you, cant quite get your feet clipped in, at least you have something to stand on until you get a chance to clip in correctly. Also, when you just want to hop on your bike to go to the store, or test ride some new tweaks, in your regular shoes, you actually have a pedal and not a nubbin under your foot. Lastly, if you have weak shoes that dont have a stiff sole, you might feel a "hotspot" on your foot where the small 520 is. I had cheap flexy spd shoes and found my feet to be pretty sore after long descents.

The 520s are great but i definetely like the 530s way better for all around use. Espcially since they are under 40 bucks on amazon right now.

good luck!

Congrats! Wonderful bike, I have this exact bike. I highly recommend getting these pedals because the stock pedals are hard plastic that are like butter when they get wet. Also if you plan on hitting rock gardens and/dirt jumps, I would highly recommend getting this rear derailleur. I found out the hard way when I hit a jump and my chain slapped, thankfully I did not wipe out. ALSO convert to tubeless! I haven't yet, but I am planning to in the near future.

Most important part, ENJOY THE BIKE AND RIDE RIDE RIDE!!

your price is just about right for shoes + pedals. Most new bikes dont come with a pedal so unless you know otherwise about the bike you are getting you will probably need to purchase a pedal and if you are purchasing pedals you might as well purchase shoes :] right? if you give a cyclist a bike, hell want pedals, if you give him pedals, hell want shoes... :P Also im a big fan of just splurging on what you can and enjoying the full package. This is all dependent though on your budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

this is the pedal i ride on my commuter. its a good dual duty pedal and the platform feels solid. Its a bit bulky so i dont ride it on my nice bike but if your planning on clipping in only sometimes i would suggest this one. If you are planning on riding clipped a majority then i would suggest a pedal without the platform.

Here are the differences in clips. (i think they are called the cleat but i am going to continue calling them the clips)

road clip

road clip shoes notice these have 3 holes where you screw the clip into the shoe in a triangular pattern.

spd clip

spd clip on shoe

notice the spd clip is smaller and recessed. This makes the shoe feel more like a normal shoe and you dont notice the clip as much

road v spd, road on left

road v spd clips and pedals

As a late disclaimer, I have never used road clips but this is the information i gathered in the process of purchasing. Road clipped shoes also usually have a stiffer sole, i believe.

As far as your question goes. I cant imagine long rides anymore without being clipped into the bike. You feel and are more attached to your machine. Your pedaling will most likely be more fluid, you can pull the pedals on the upstroke, your feet wont pop off the pedals on hard shifts letting you pedal through the shifts (something i couldnt do so well without clipless), and you have to learn to trust your bike because your stuck in it :]

That said, I did ride without clipless shoes for quite a while and didnt have any problems but if you asked me to go back now i wouldnt do it. I think if you cant swing a set of shoes and pedals right now, you wouldnt die because of it, but i would suggest investing in them if you are looking to be more serious about riding.

I hope this helps your decision and doesnt make things even more confusing :P

heres my setup for reference.

shoes $100

pedals $70

if your not sure how to use them. You slide the front of the clip in and then start pedaling and push the back of the clip in and it will click in. To get out you twist your ankle away from the bike and the clip will pop out. After i get my pedals i always loosen the spring on the pedal to the loosest setting, then tighten to preference. Looser settings will allow you to still twist your foot side to side while clipped in. Also i think spd clips will give you more side to side play than a road clip.

EDIT: i changes the road clip picture, it was a bit confusing before

The conversion isn't worth it, but it's a good deal for the bike anyway, so I would just get it and ride it as is to get used to shifting while you save up for a proper road bike. If you're really set on mounting drops, I'd go with something like these. They're drops that fit like standard MTB bar-ends. I would consider getting more narrow flat bars in conjunction with them, but it's not a big deal.

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

I am wrong and you are right, but the market is still dominated primarily by two types: SPD and SPD-SL. OP, I still recommend you do your own google research and LBS research because everyone has different preferences on pedals and cleats. I ride SPD on my road bikes, yet these are considered mountain bike pedals. Talk to someone at your LBS. As far as cost (and the reason I ride SPD), these are some of the most affordable/cost effective pedals on the market. If you are new to clipping in, you can get nice mountain bike style shoes that will allow you to walk around comfortably also. Also, I apologize, I didn't intend to sound condescending, but I do think a google search will give you more info faster than reddit.

You mentioned that your tubes have given out on you. Since they are cheap, replace these first. When replacing the tubes, run your finger along the inside side walls of the wheel. Do you feel any burrs or anything sticking out? If so, sand it down and get some rim tape. Bikes like these usually come with cheaper tires varying in quality. When the tire is off, check a couple things;

• The tire will be wire bead (you can easily google what this means). Check to see that the wire bead doesn't have any abnormalities (straight, nothing sticking out of the bead).
  
• Check for holes or sign of ware
  
• Check if anything somehow made it inside of the tire.
  
  Remember, if you replace the tire don't go crazy and buy tires that are 80$ each. Go with something like this;
  http://www.amazon.com/Geax-Goma-Enduro-Race-Tire/dp/B00J07F72K
  
  After this, if you're going to be doing any agressive mountain biking, I would highly recommend replacing the pedals with something that has metal pins. Once again, no need to go crazy! Something like this:
  http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Magnesium-Sealed-Platform-Pedal/dp/B00GDF87GU
  
  The two best upgrades in my opinion are:
  
  
• A pair of well fitting baggy cycling shorts. I highly recommend the company endura.
  
• A decent hydration pack that has room for a spare tube, a tire lever, and a general folding bike tool
  
  Do not patch these tubes. The tubes this bike came with are not great. Tubes are so cheap they aren't worth patching unless you're out and run out of tubes. Don't buy a tube from target or walmart, make sure you buy a tube from an actual bike shop as they are a much higher quality.

> Thanks! I've been eyeing the freeriders actually... I feel like they'd let the air flow a bit better. How does a pair of Five Tens hold up over time? How long have you had yours and what kind of riding do you do in them?

I've had my last pair for the better part of two years, I use them two-three times a week on my commute (20 miles RT) usually on my Shimano Saints. Most of the time on my Pugsley, sometimes the 1x1 or the fixed CrossCheck. They've been soaked in rain by rain and slush, covered in mud.

Maybe once a month they go off-road / trail riding.

Aside from replacing the laces, they've held up great.

I had shimano on both of my bikes. That's as far as I can go for recommending something. They both lasted without issue, and the shoes lasted thousands of miles as well. Shimano makes good stuff. I wouldn't spend more than like 50-60 bucks. Unless you're going for super light weight on a road bike.

[these are what I had on my mountain bike, and they were great, and would work for a commuter or road bike as well] (http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464887791&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+PD-M530+Trail+Mountain+Pedals)

The wiki has a great section on shoes n pedals.

Swapping the pedals out is pretty easy. Just be careful to not cross thread. The right and left pedals screw in opposite.

There are a couple of dual clip options in the wiki that have look on one side and spd on the other.

I personally use these and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32

Yeah, any other non-road bike pedal will be more than enough. I have these on my Felt, and they're not true road or mountain bike pedals, more like commuter-esque/urban riding pedals. A lot of people like the Shimano SPD pedals because they are really great value for the price point. These ones are the most common and are very versatile.

Unless you're pro-cyclist level, there really isn't a huge gain (at least imo, ymmv) between the two. Comes down to preference really. I have noticed in a few bike shops that road shoes/cleats tend to run a little bit more as well, but I also wasn't really looking into those, so obviously there's going to be variation.

Yup, I wear those to bike and 4-5/7 days of the week at work. Really not complaints at all - very sturdy shoe, good design, and the vibram soles work great in any wet/non-ideal conditions.

It sucks to say, but you are definitely going to eat shit at least once while getting used to clipless pedals. Just a part of the initiation into biking culture!

Former bike shop employee here. Shoes should fit comfortably but securely. As others have said, you don't want them too tight. But you definitely don't want them slipping off. You'll be pulling up on the pedals, so having your feet slipping out would really suck.

Cleats are sold separately. These are what you need, just standard Shimano SH-51 SPD cleats. I'm 99% sure that's what your spin bikes will need, but to really be certain, ask your instructor. Some spin bikes have dual-sided pedals - one side works with "mountain bike" SPD cleats, the other side works with "road bike" Look-style cleats.

Assuming those are the cleats you need for the pedals, that means they're using "mountain bike" pedals, and that means you want to buy "mountain bike" shoes, or standard touring shoes: something like this. Don't buy "road" shoes unless your instructor specifically says that's what they use. "Road" shoes have a hard, slippery sole that the cleat sits out on, and it makes it really, really hard to walk around.

In the box with your shoes will be some little metal bits with screw holes in them. These go inside your shoe, under the footbed, and the cleats will screw into them through the sole of the shoe. You may have to cut out the bottom of the shoe sole first, though with most shoes you don't have to do that anymore.

When you go to spin class with your shoes the first time, make sure to take the allen wrench with you so you can adjust your cleats after getting on the bike. Your knee/foot alignment is impossible to predict, and once you clip into the pedals you'll quickly figure out that one cleat or the other may need to turn in or out to make your knees/feet feel comfortable.

Sounds to me like you'll be after either a cyclocross/gravel grinder bike or a commuter. Both styles have clearance for wide 700c tires and (usually) mount points for racks and fenders, which are invaluable commuting accessories. The cyclocross/gravel bikes have drop (road style) bars, while the commuters have flat (mountain style) bars. Both are equally at home on pavement or gravel roads, but will struggle with true mountain biking.

Here are a bunch of new commuter bikes for ~$500:

• Kona Dew
  
  
• Trek 7.1 FX
  
  
• Scott Sub 40
  
  
• Giant Escape 2
  
  
• Specialized Sirrus
  
  
• Cannondale Quick 6
  
  
• GT Traffic 2.0
  
  
• Diamondback Insight 2
  
  Most of these can be had with better components for a few hundred more.
  
  Cyclocross/gravel bikes:
  
  
• Surly Cross-Check
  
  
• Surly Straggler
  
  
• Niner RLT 9
  
  
• Kona Jake/Jake the Snake
  
  
• Specialized Tricross Series
  
  
• Trek Crossrip Series
  
  Of all those, the one I'd be most likely to buy is the Straggler.
  
  Another thing I'd recommend investing in is clipless pedals. For rides of more than a few miles they make a huge difference. These are what I use on my commuter because they allow use with bike or street shoes.

Just got back from Europe, we had helmets but mostly kept them for bad road/weather conditions. Not sure there's a really good reason not to wear one, and as someone else said it's not that heavy so definitely worth at least bringing, I think.

As for 'tools', definitely remember to bring some oil & rag to lube your chain. If it's raining or you're going over sand it can dry out your chain pretty quickly. I don't know how long your tour is, but maybe a chain whip/spare spokes? If you don't want to carry thall of that, http://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC is what we carried, which seems like it should be good enough to get you to a shop to have it replaced.

If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.

But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.

Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.

Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.

Last year I got my first "real" bike and decided to take the plunge and get some clipless pedals, after about 2k miles I will never look back. A friend in the cycling industry recommended Shimano SPD pedals, they are cheap and easy to exit, (road specific pedals and shoes tend to be more expensive) and also tend to have a recessed cleat. I have Shimano shoes they are comfortable, and relatively inexpensive (as far as bike shoes go) you might be able to find some better deals on nashbar or other sites like that though.

I am about to order some Shimano PD-A520 which is more of a touring pedal, it has a bigger platform which will reduce hotspots on long rides (which wasn't a problem until recently, probably due to shoe wear.) You may also want to check out these which give you the choice to use clipless shoes or just regular shoes.

*sp

Bike originally retailed for $1,129.99 source

He does say that the shifters need replaced, which is going to run you about $40-$50 for the parts, if you can install it yourself.

I'm a fan of the pedals on the bike, although they aren't that expensive to pick up, about $40. If he isn't selling cleats with the bike, and you don't have cleats, they are going to cost you about $16. I can't tell what kind of bike computer is on there, but low end bike computers can be had for $10-$20, so they usually don't drive up the bike price.

It is nice that it was overhauled recently, but the items listed sound like the bike has not been used gingerly, however that is the norm for mountain bikes. The bike seems reasonably priced, but if you are looking to talk him down I would quote the "scratches and stuff", shifter replacement, possible lack of cleats, and the fact that the drivetrain is previous generation 9 speed, not 10 speed. From the unwillingness to ship and the overall state of the bike, especially the lack of cleaning prior to picture taking, I would bet that the seller is largely trying to get rid of it, as he quoted, "I am buying a new bike & do not have room for a lot of bikes".

My personal strategy, were I negotiating on this bike, would be to cite the problems with the bike, give a lowball offer at $300, and be happy if you were able to scoop it up for $350, though $400 does not seem unreasonable considering the equipment.

Overall I have found that X-7 and X-9 perform well, and personally do not mind running 9 speed kit in my mountain bikes. I have had a lot of success picking up older bikes on craigslist / ebay, and the huge cost savings far outweighs the fact that your bike isn't as shiny.

This pair! They're just neoprene & they were 20 bucks. they're nice against the wind. sometimes i wore a pair of cotton gloves underneath. they're bulky, but for 20$, i was pretty happy!

https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=pogies+bike&qid=1570733696&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlkwV0VPRFpKRVRWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjM0MVVPNVpDV0pBTUpXQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODczMzMyMk1YUEQ2NTU5NzdXMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.

Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain

I'm a little late on your post, but as someone who only recently got serious about cycling and even more recently went clipless, I'll share some thoughts:

> more speed/acceleration

As others have said, there isn't a substantial speed increase. However, in my opinion, it does become easier to get up to speed if you pop out of the saddle and floor it. It also makes climbing feel far easier to me. The biggest advantage is the added stability in your feet. After 5-10 miles, I don't even feel the pedals so much anymore and it becomes a fluid process.

> But does this tire you out faster?

Not really, but if I'm being honest, "pulling" uses a set of muscles you may not be used to using, so your legs may get unexpectedly sore for the first couple of rides if you do that. Once you're past that (which was quick for me) there are no real downsides.

> Are they hard to get out of in a pinch?

This depends. There are different types of cleats/clips, and you can vary the tension on each, making them easier or harder to get out of. I've been using mine for about 6 months and have always been able to clip out in time, even once when a car cut me off and I had to get out in a split second.

> Are good/light ones terribly expensive?

Prices vary widely, but you can easily get a solid set of pedals for $50 or so. I have these pedals here, since I ride recreationally and also use my bike to commute in to work. Notice there are clips on one side and a flat platform on the other. They aren't the lightest, but they aren't super heavy, and the versatility is great.

I just bought these MKS Lambda pedals and I'm very happy with them. They look great, have a ton of surface area, and are very grippy. Also consider the MKS Sylvan which I've used for thousands of miles and are also very good.

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying theblackbibs.com next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

After trying heavy gloves, lobster gloves, and a variety of layering I have to say I feel stupid for not doing bar mitts style pogies sooner. Wasn't sure if I'd like them so even got some off brand ones for $23 and even those are great.

Days in the 20s have required no gloves and this morning I had to open the vents to keep my hands from getting too warm. Amazing!

These are the ones I got, haven't had them long enough to couch for durability but performance has been great so far.

ODIER Bike Handlebar Mitts Cyclist Pogies Mittens for Winter Thermal Cover for Handlebar Keep Hands Warm 1 Pair (Bar-Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_jrZ0DbQREJW3J

I recently got a pair of these, and I am loving them. Nice big platform for tons of foot contact, very grippy, so you shouldn't need clips or straps (and you can DIY add pins for more grip if you want), and their look is somewhere between dorky and awesome, which I appreciate.

In general I think anything with a vibram / danite sole will be workable to commute on. But it sort of depends on your commute, perhaps telling us more about that too would help us give reasonable answers.

I ride a couple miles everyday on Topy'd shoes, Vibram-soled, etc. But my ride is a leisurely 3 or 4 miles with lots of wandering through a park on a rather upright bike. One big upgrade I made that allowed me to ride in a whole variety of shoes with ease are some big fat pedals. I like the MKS Lambda as it has replaceable spikes if you want too. These from VO are very nice too for all sorts of footwear. Obviously if you're on a spirited ride in with SPDs this isn't going to work. But you may consider upgrading pedals first as they can be used with a large range of shoes. And then get some new shoes of course.

Last week, I bought the XT Trail PD-M785, which is about half the price ($80 vs $161) of the XTR and only like 10 grams heavier (398 vs 408) and I absolutely adore them. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now and I've used Time's and Crank Brothers mostly and these Shimano's are in a whole different league.

The platform is big enough to give you something to stand on if you want to clip out going down some techy stuff or if you need to do an uphill start. The tension adjust is also a really nice feature so that you can leave them loose when you're just starting out and then tighten the engagement as needed. Those pedals and my dropping seatpost are absolutely the best upgrades I've done to my bike recently.

EDIT: If you're looking for something even more reasonably priced, there are the Shimano PD-M530, which is the same style of pedal, just $40. I'm looking into a pair of these for my girlfriend right now. I haven't ridden them personally, but people say really good things about them.

I'd recommend the Shimano A530 pedals, they're pretty great imo and got plenty of good reviews, you got SPD on one side and platform on the other when you don't feel like using your cycling shoes.

I use SPD clipless pedals, along with these shoes. I prefer MTB clipless shoes because they have a recessed cleat and are much easier to walk in than road-oriented kicks.

The difference you notice when using a clipless system is astounding, and I would never go back to platforms/cages. So much more efficient and natural feeling.

Just my experience but I went with Bontrager Solstice shoes and absolutely love them. I have a wider foot and they have rubber on the bottom so not terrible to walk a short distance in.


For pedals I went with Shimano A530 pedals. A solid pedal that can be ridden as a flat as well. Not the lightest pedal but very practical for me.


Total cost $130.00. Might be an option for you.

Agreed, its a good idea for folks who already have a shoe with different cleats. I already had SPD compatible shoes and didn't want to spend the extra $ on the Peloton shoes. Did something similar but with Shimano pedals:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Allows my 15 y.o. daughter who does not have cycling shoes to take advanced beginner rides and a couple of friends who have been curious have also been able to try out the bike.

I would look into things like barmits
Good set of safety lights
Face masks, wind breakers, bike rack and panniers.
Get anything that will make riding in any weather or condition comfortable.
Patch kit, tools, or spare tubes always good to have extra.

> http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

definitely save up your money and get a nice Tiagra or 105 road bike when you can afford it. Way better than getting a $750 bike that you'll want to upgrade in 2 years.

Oh man, besides the pedals I'm not sure these are upgrades as much as they are 'add-ons' but hey I'm done working so I'll pretend by being on Reddit:

Got this light from my LBS with my bike, love that it was bright as shit and rechargeable...I emailed the company about some the band and different sizes since we have the interrupter lever, they were awesome and sent me some to try out

This tail Light because it was also rechargeable and crazy bright...people behind me have rolled up and asked what kind of light it is...me likey

These panniers because the good reviews, minimal looks, and the waterproof aspect..I use these guys along with a random rack from REI everyday....love it..I also got this backpack thingymajig that makes the pannier a backpack

Got these pedals because they allowed me to rock normal shoes when I'm not wearing these, I like that I can tool around with just normal shoes on without worrying about foot placement.

And riding through town with the oblivious drivers/tourists around downtown I'm picking this horn, we'll see how it goes..and maybe a gopro......

I have Shimano A520s on my road bike and I think they're great. Wide platform, easy to clip in and out of, and I love being able to walk around a bit if needed (especially since I live on a dirt road).

The only downside for me is that the shoes I have are pretty heavy and not as well ventilated as some regular road shoes.

The R530s are on sale for $39.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1108401_-1

Pretty sure these are the pedals I have on my Peloton, $29.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1167364_-1

And these are the pedals I have on my cross/town bike. They have a platform on the flip side, $42.45:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The clip for the SPD style cleats is smaller - much smaller and harder to clip into than the LOOK style. But once you get used to it, they are really easy. Overall, I'm glad I made the switch.

I went this route from day 1 of my commuter purchase. I love them: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

I reduced the tension nearly all the way, and it's super easy to clip in and out. You will fall. Know that right now. You'll forget and you will fall.

The nice thing is having the platform pedal on one side so you can wear street shoes when you so desire.

I use the Shimano MX80 (Zee) and I really like them. They look really nice and work well. Good price on Amazon too.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-153054-Pd-Mx80-Platform-Pedals/dp/B007Q4PBO8/

i have some hybrid pedals. they are shimano spd and are flat on one side. my daily commute is about 1 mile, so it is really not worth putting the bike shoes on, but when i ride for pleasure i like to go 10-20 miles. then it is worth it.

My pedal setup.

pedals

shoes

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

You can get a Brooks saddle for 90: http://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Saddles-Standard-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B000HZA918/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325022507&sr=8-1

Still not dirt cheap, but a very fair price for what you get. I love mine.

Funny enough... the pedals I have on there are SPD pedals that came on the bike I previously purchased. They're similar to THESE, which I found on Amazon.

The pedals I will be putting on soon though, are THESE, of which I am a massive fan. They've got SPD clips on one side and a platform on the other side, which means I can clip in when I am using cycling shoes, but can also just hop on with sneaker or any flat soled shoe that I could be wearing. Great for commuting if you don't have room in your bag to switch shoes!

Ive been using these to great success: Shimano A530 Yet another half and half solution.

I went clipless rather recently (yesterday). Go to your LBS, get an accurate shoe size and pick em up online cuz you have more choice and reviews. Good ones come at around 70-100. I bought these guys for 90 bucks and shimano m520's for 30 bucks. Good stuff. Just love them.

Cool shoes! As far as pedals go, I'd get a combo pedal with one clipless side and one flat side. That way, if you decide to use normal shoes it still works. Or if your legs/feet start hurting after hours of keeping them in the exact same position on a clipless, you simply flip the pedal and enjoy some freedom of movement on the flat side.

I have one pair of these pedals on a MTB, and I don't really like them. They weigh the same on each side, so they never flip to one side by themselves. When you start pedaling you never know which side will be up.

I'd much rather get something like this, because they will always orient themselves with the right side up. I don't have experience with those pedals in particular, but I've got some almost identical ones made by Exustar and I like them a lot (couldn't find them on amazon though).

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

These guys did the math: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNedIJBZpgM

Basically, it's not more efficient overall, but it will give you more power over short distances like on climbs or sprints.

Doesn't matter for most people unless you want your foot in exactly the same spot each time. I kind of like being able to move my foot around and not being obligated to wear a certain kind of shoe each time I ride.

Also, there are many different kinds of platforms if you go that route. I like these: http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.drillium

Would probably get these if I did it again, much cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1472943200&sr=1-4&keywords=platform+pedals

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

So, if I buy them from here what would I do about shoes? Would any biking shoe work and I just pop in the cleats, or do I have to get a certain type?

Thanks for the tip, seems like they have a good rating everywhere.

2011 Salsa El Mariachi. List of specs here. The only upgrade I made was clipless pedals. I love this bike and I'd be happy to answer any questions about it though I admit I'm a bit of an MTB newb.

I just bought biking shoes (Shimano with SDP compatibility). I was hoping for some advice on which pedals to get. I'm looking at lower/cheaper end pedals (such as this one, another one, or another, or finally this one).

I have a road bike, and am looking for double sided pedals that I can use with both my clip in shoes and my regular shoes. Do you have any advice?

Thanks in advance :)

SPDs are incredibly easy to unclip and you can do it using right or left rotation without even thinking about it. You can also just slam your foot onto the pedal and click in immediately.

I used to ride on SPD-SLs and while I think they are slightly better for long rides, I ditched them entirely and only use SPDs now. Not only can I walk around normally, but they are basically just as good and now I don't have to even think about clipping/unclipping.

I commute about 30 miles daily in dense urban to suburban areas, so while downtown in the big city I'm stopping/starting constantly. Can't imagine not having clipless, especially for hopping curbs/potholes/road debris. Just so much more control and besides, every time I've crashed I've popped out of them automatically.

Give it a try, dude. You don't need to wait for a new bike, just get a set of pedals/cleats for $50. You can even get dual SPD/platform pedals if you want maximum flexibility (I had a set but got rid of them because I never used the platforms).

Sorry for my noobness, but are you talking about something like this? I have the same issue as Schmackelnuts, and don't have the money for a new bike right now, so I'd like to make my hybrid more comfortable.

> Uhh, those are definitely meant for cleats to be installed. The 2 screws are standard SPD compatible.

Yes I know, but they work good even without.

> How tiny are your platforms that they can fit into that space?

On the commuter I have these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MZ2AGO/

One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.

Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.

If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.

You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.

Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.

However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.

I use the MKS lambda pedals on my commuter. Fantastic pedals, highly recommend. They look like battleaxes.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSQVEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1420519671&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#

I wondered about this too when I had the same bike, but you have to realize that you will be using it a radically different purpose than the frame was intended. That isn't just fluff. The geometry is very different. As much as I liked to think so, the 7.2 is not really a flat-bar road bike. the geometry is much more upright.

Sure, you can use your corvette to haul a trailer, but that is really not what it was designed for. If you see what I mean.

Now, I personally think it would look like ass, but you can install something like these bar ends

I have a silver 59cm Windsor Wellington 3, bought this summer, less than 100 miles on it, with new Shimano A530 pedals (SPD on one side, platform on the other)

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3-xv.htm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO

It was inspected by Bike Lane in Logan Square after assembly, everything's in good shape.

I just prefer my old bike and I still ride it exclusively, so this one is just taking up space. Make me an offer if you're interested. Thanks!

Nice bike... looks light compared to my winter tank! I think you'll enjoy this bike.

My Fatbike tip is once it's below -20C, get some bar mitts like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F9ZQH4/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=bicycling0d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B009F9ZQH4&ascsubtag=%5BASIN%7CB009F9ZQH4%5Bnid%7C2246911%5Bvid%7C2424011%5Bbrand%7CBKE%5Butm%7C

These things will pertain more to riding on trails, but you might want:

• gloves for the trails (not so much for the commuting)
  
  
• pedals (only if you have plastic pedals you might want to upgrade.) I recently did and i feel so much more comfortable with my new, large, grippy, Wellgo MG-1's
  
  
• new shoes if you don't want to mess up your current shoes on the pedals.

I've been using some Wellgo MG-1s on my AM bike. Solid pedal. Even better price. Love it.

this 2 week old post pretty much covers the reasons why what you're planning on doing isn't very cost effective.

I thought this was the best solution on the thread, so long as you're fine with not being able to stop or shift while in the drops.

I bought these.
My buddy bought these

They're dual platform/cleats. I enjoy them GREATLY and frequently switch during a ride. Granted, I don't race, but on a typical ride, I'll clip in for uphill/downhill and switch to platforms for anything technical. I have about 20 hours using these now and this was my first time using cleats. There absolutely is a learning curve but the trade-off is exceptional power and control.

Enjoy, whatever you decide on!

ive asked this question before, basicly best answer was bar end drops. like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8?sa-no-redirect=1

as far as fit, if your legs are long enough that you can pedal a size larger fine then you may be able to get away with just changing the stem, which isn't too expensive or difficult.

a shorter steeper stem will get the bars closer to you and higher which will focus less of your weight on your hands.

no, those are MTB pedals, not road pedals. see my list in this thread for some compatible shoes. these are good pedals if you intend on sometimes riding with shoes that don't have cleats in them. Since they are flat on one side and clipless on the other side. And the flat side is wide enough to be comfortable and keep your feet secure as well.

OK this is slightly confused. How many cogs are on your freewheel cluster?
I'm guessing 5, making your bike a 10 speed using the two chainrings at the front (2x5). This freewheel would usually be replaced with a similar cluster (5 cog) although you could go 6 without too many issues, like this Shimano unit although best to check if your rear derailleur can handle 28t.

Whatever shoes you get make sure they either have or can take toe spikes. They make running up a muddy hill so much easier!

I've used Shimano PD-M520 spd pedals for three years now, with no complaints. Even if you miss a clip in, or if it's clogged and you can't, there's enough of a pedal there you can still lay some power down.

For shoes, last summer I got Shimano's M162 shoe. It's been pretty good, except for some cosmetic stuff. They have removable toe spikes so if the race isn't muddy, or doesn't have a super steep run up, you can still run pretty good in them.

Yup. I've got the Shimano A530 but there's a few others that are variations on that theme.

Sometimes, even if I'm wearing my cycling shoes, I'll use the platform side. If I'm navigating some tight urban space, for example, and know I'll be going slow and stopping often. Or, even on the road, sometimes I'll unclip and flip them over just to give my feet a change.

I find being clipped in most useful climbing long hills. Pulling up on the backstroke gets other leg muscles into the game. Sometimes that's the difference between cresting the hill and having to take a break.

I used to wear toe clips with straps. This sort of thing. I find the SPDs to be easier to get out of quickly. What I haven't tried is the new style strapless toe-clips. I should probably give those a try.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

I broke a rear spoke while on tour last summer - I carry two extra spokes, but the cassette on the rear wheel blocked the hole for the broken spoke, and I couldn't manage to thread the spare to fit without removing it (which I did not have the tools for).

Luckily, one of the guys in my group had a FiberFix spoke kit, and it worked like a champ. I was able to fix my wheel and complete my tour using it. Now I keep one in my kit - tiny and weighs practically nothing, but it can really come in handy.

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

Its looking good!

To get handlebars like those, you need to fit handlebar extensions such as these :

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Compe-Lite-Ends/dp/B002I7PRUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1344795835&sr=1-2&keywords=bar+extensions

Been rocking mine for a year now, you'll love yours!

Do yourself a favor and grab a pair of Wellgo MG-1 Pedals, they're infinitely more durable and grippy than the plastic ones the bike comes with.

That's what I do as well. Then I'd suggest either the Bommixc or Wellgo Mg 1:

https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Magnesium-Sealed-Platform-Pedal/dp/B00GDF87GU

Bonmixc are cheaper, and they're really well made. My only criticism of Bonmixc is that if you wear really thin, flexible soled shoes, then you can feel the metal bar a bit on the ball of your foot. But if you have stiffer soles, or something like a normal athletic/running shoe, it's no issue. Wellgo is also great.

For first clipless pedals, I like the Shimano PD-A530s. They’re SPD so you can walk in the shoes easily, and have clipless on one side with flats on the other so you can ride in sneakers occasionally.

I have them on my hybrid so I can go with whatever shoes I’m wearing for commutes, rides with the kiddo, etc. I still have the option to go clipless on that bike if I want using the same shoes as my road bike and its PD-M520L pedals.

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7S41Ab03R9VC1

For shoes I have Shimano SH-CT71 which I like just fine.

Shimano 2015 Men's Recreational Cycling Shoes - SH-CT71L (Black - 41) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWGSQ7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DW41AbV539CR4

This kind of setup is about $100, so it’s within your budget. I’m not sure what more you’d get for the extra money really..

Dual-sided pedals with toe cages on one side usually have toothy flats or SPD on the other. SPD pedals will have small jaws that face and resemble each other--see the pedal at this link for an example. It's hard to recommend shoes (as fit and feel is a matter of subjective experience) so I recommend visiting your LBS and trying some on, or ordering a few different types from a seller who offers free return shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_JUNiDbKB8SBJG

That bike looks like it was barely ridden! Great catch. Now just get out there and ride.

The only thing that I can't quite tell re: the bike is what kinda pedals it has. If those are the plastic pedals that came with it then I'd consider changing them out to something with more grip or you'll soon be slapping your in-between-naughty place with metal tubing. I've used these which aren't too expensive...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Bigfoot-Pedals-16Inch-Axle/dp/B002BVUGA0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1404235658&sr=8-10&keywords=bike+pedal

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Magnesium-Sealed-Platform-Pedal/dp/B00GDF87GU/ref=pd_sim_sg_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VH4A4CHB2K4V82PCXBN

http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle-Drop-Ends-Black/dp/B0013G6PB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370531491&sr=8-1&keywords=drop+bar+ends

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

If you want platform pedals welgo mg-1's are fantastic and affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483136257&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wellgo+mg+1&dpPl=1&dpID=41MHClFiruL&ref=plSrch

If you want clipless you'll need pedals and special shoes

I installed MKS Lambda platforms ($38) on a buddies bike for him and he hasn't stopped raving about them. His positives are that they are a substantial platform to stand on, they spin nice, and they are super grippy in wet conditions.

They aren't all that pretty, but not horrible.

• Fork: JRFOTO Carbon Fork
  
• Wheelset: Weinmann DP18 (already had these)
  
• Pedals: Shimano PD-M520L
  
• Saddle: Charge Spoon
  
• Crankset and BB: SRAM S300
  
• Stem: Not sure of the brand. Took it off of a Surly Steamroller.
  
• Bars: Fyxation Rodeo Pursuit Bullhorns
  
• Bar Tape: [Cinelli GEL Cork] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0067ST9XS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (I'd never wrapped bars before and this tape is one of the easiest to wrap)
  
  So pretty much the only thing that's the same as when I bought it is the seatpost and seatpost clamp.

I've got a TCR Advanced too!

Here's what I use on both my mountain and road bikes:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M1PAzbFHBZ9AA

And my shoes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O2JMCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z3PAzbXKEGNZ8

A little lower priced than most suggestions here.

It's worked perfectly, but I would stay away from the less expensive SPD pedals not made by shimano, they don't feel nearly as good.

Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/

*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

We used to recommend Wellgo MG1s around here. I have a set and I love them. Fairly cheap too.

Depends on how long you're riding. I'd avoid clipless for quick jaunts or non serious rides. For serious 1+ hour riding, clipless is great.

These are good value and very light for metal pedals: http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-MG-1-Magnesium-Platform-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ5OK

You can possibly get them from Amazon for much cheaper than retail. I got my pedals + clips for around $32 (Shimano SPDs). You can get non name brands for cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYAENC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

My shoes were from the Amazon warehouse, and I paid $40 for them. Someone had bought them, tried them on and they didn't fit well, and did the free return thing. They were in their original box with tags and everything. Pearl Izumi X-Alp Seeks, retailed at my REI for $110ish. Shop around!

You didn't say what your budget is or what you'd consider a great deal but here is a good option

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1374857472&sr=1-5&keywords=shimano+105+pedal $40

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-apparel/2013-lake-cx200-shoes-37546.5.1.html $52

I love the M530s. In the beginning, there are going to be moments where you don't manage to clip back in, and traffic is not going to stop for those 10 extra seconds you need to get it right. The M530s have enough platform space for you to comfortably pedal without being clipped in. Being double sided and durable as hell are also major bonuses.

Nevermind, seems I was mistaken. $28USD for a mechanical brake and shifter cable set on Amazon. It'd be about $45 retail for a hydraulic brake hose and a shift cable set.

Since a bike shop buys this stuff wholesale they can easily afford to charge exactly retail or under for a service like this and still make a fair profit, so OP is either being upcharged in parts too if it's a mechanical brakeset, or were charged a reasonable price for hydraulic.

Is this the one you're talking about, or do you mean the A530 or the M324? It looks to me like the M530 is dual sided clipless, but there's only one picture in Amazon, so I can't be sure.

I'm considering getting clipless pedals, but I also like riding to the grocery store or park and it doesn't make sense to change shoes.

This seems like a simpler solution to me than bringing extra tools. Haven't used one but I carry it and I've heard lots of good things.

https://www.amazon.ca/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC

I have these shoes with these pedals.

Excellent traction while walking and the pedals are great for the price. I also ride a fair amount of road and have no complaints so far.

WellGo MG1

Just over your price limit, but it's worth it for magnesium (light) and removable/replaceable pins (they grip way better than molded ones, and you can replace them when they wear down). Fits any Hold Fast-style straps.

Someone else suggested these MG-1 pedals to me when I was looking, they are pretty darn good for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7UZ5OK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503847005&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mg-1+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=41MHClFiruL&ref=plSrch

My favorite addition:

https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=bar+mitts&qid=1569006208&sr=8-5

Cheap and effective.

You don't need anything as expensive as those - although they are good!

I would personally recommend these http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520L-Sport-Pedals-Cleats/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425894661&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+520

They will work with any MTB/SPD type shoes. Such as these http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Off-Road-Sport-Cycling-Shoes/dp/B008K3P6VW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1425894703&sr=8-6&keywords=Shimano+cycling+shoes

I don't see any particular problem with the length of your commute. You can ride any bike longer distances, and the Soho has all the nice features for doing so - fenders, rack mounts, enough speeds to get you over the hills. The only issue I could see with it is a lack of hand positions. That could be easily solved with a set of bar ends or a different set of bars. A good bike shop will swap handlebars for you, maybe at a slight upcharge for the price difference. I found a review in the comment section here that suggested moustache bars or I think another good option would be some Titec H-Bars.


I really can't see any other issue with the length of your commute on that bike. For myself, the lack of hand positions would be the killer. I have some carpal tunnel problems (too much wrenching on motorcycles and cars) that can't handle the same handlebar position for more than 15 minutes. Flat bars are fine for short commutes, hence why a lot of the reviews you are seeing are commutes under 10 miles.

Thats probably SPD. this is the pedal I have, and I'm pleased with them. You can get better, but these are very well reviewed and cheap.

If you like a classic looking saddle. The Brooks B17 Standard is a very sweet saddle.

I ride with these and I absolutely love them. They do everything I want them too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm a new road cyclist (less than 250 miles total so far) and I'm looking for some advice about clipless pedals. I currently have the Shimano SPD-SL PD-R540, and even at the lightest setting I find that unclipping is a little difficult. I've already had one fall and a couple near misses where I've been able to unclip in time at the last moment.

After my fall, my confidence is a bit shaken. So I'm wondering if I should stick with these and try to master the mechanics, or if other pedal options like SPD or another manufacturer are inherently "easier" to unclip from?


edit: Most of my rides so far have been between 10-30 miles each on either a dedicated bike path or neighborhood streets.

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

Thanks for the help guys, I went with these pedals: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the pedals I have recently purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far so good, have not rode too much in them just yet (20 miles) but I am enjoying them as of to date.

Yes, I'd recommend getting a pedal like these or these for your commuter. Both are SPD with one side for the cleat and a platform for when you're not wearing cleats. Feel free to shop around for the best price, I just did a quick search on Amazon. I have the M324's on my commuter and have no complaints. The A520's were the other pair I considered when I went into the shop a year ago for this.

For the roadie I'd recommend something like the Shimano PD-M540

For commuting purposes I'd also recommend getting a pair of shoes for mountain biking. These tend to have the cleat within a recess which allows you to walk more comfortably from your bike to your desk when commuting. I'd highly recommend going to your LBS and letting them know your intentions. They should be able to find you a pair that fits you well. You may decide you want road shoes which is fine if they fit well and you don't mind how it feels to walk in them.

Of course, having road shoes are more ideal but if money is tight and you're not quite ready to drop the money, then this will save you from having to drop money on an extra pair of shoes. For reference, I commute 5 times a week and do additional cycling 4-6 times a week. I hear some people complain about "hot-spots" but I have never had any problems with my SPD mountain bike pedals and bontager mountain bike shoes. It has been close to a year since I bought my pedals and shoes though and I think it's about time that I get some road shoes and road specific pedals--mostly because I'm tired of my shoes getting wet during my commute and then having to put up with them being wet when I'm on the trainer at home.

I carry a spare "spoke" which is this repair kit w/ a kevlar string to apply tension where there's a missing spoke. It's better than doing a temporary truing job (which can risk other spokes breaking) and it''ll work on most wheels instead of only having your own spoke size/type (good for when a stranger/friend breaks theirs).

Another "you never know when you'll need it" thing is a universal derailluer hanger. Which is funny because I'm kind of a prepared guy and thought it will be one of those things I'll never ever use but have peace of mind. The very next day that it came in the mail, I ended up using it on a stranger's bike.

Edit: this is it

I use shimano saints which are not as big as I'd like them to be, but they are fantastically grippy with these shoes. The impacts are definitely a little bit heavier than the maltese falcons but they're also built to be more durable and they're quite a bit larger. I don't really feel their weight is an issue. It's something I don't even think about while I'm riding. If you're not worried too much about hitting your ankles you can't go wrong with the lows.

Haha yep! Origin8 makes em. http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-33617-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

I just got some Shimano SPD-SL Pedals - PD-R540
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ

And some Pearl Izumi shoes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041HX6EA

I like the Pearl Izumi jerseys and shorts that I have so I stayed with that brand.

Only put 40 miles on them this weekend, but they seem nice.

Trying out Bar Mitts to keep my hands warm - https://www.amazon.com/ODIER-Handlebar-Cyclist-Mittens-Bar-Straight/dp/B077SY7J6F/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=bar+mitts&psc=1&qid=1572883108&sr=8-7

Worked pretty well to stop the wind chill.

Assuming you can get the cassette off, you'll be ready for anything. If you really want to be ready for anything, throw one of these in your bag. Or, alternatively, you can carry one of these to get your cassette off in a pinch, and back on.

>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28

That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.

>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS

half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.

Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.

I wrap my tube in an old sock. It helps protect it a little and also gives me something to use as a rag.

I also carry an emergency spoke

Use what I got they give you the best of both worlds.. You can either click-in or use platforms.

I bought these and love them:

Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium Pedal

I have a set of Fix It Sticks that include a chain tool and tire levers, a Leatherman Skeletool, patch kit, spare tube, pump, zip ties, duct tape, chain link and compact pliers, a tiny tube of chain lube, latex gloves and a hand cleaner packet.

As far as spokes go, I carry a Kevlar spoke repair kit https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC




If I'm really out in the boonies, I take my hiking survival essentials and I always have a small first aid kit. I have a headlight mount on my helmet and stash the light in my tool bag.




And wear shoes you can walk in!